FRANCOIS BAUDOT

FASHION The Twentieth Century

Universe Contents

8 Foreword

11 Introduction

1 30 The Belle epoquel igoo-i gi4 106 The Second World War 1939-1 945

30 Historical Review 106 Historical Review 36 Jacques Doucet 114 The Reign ofthe Milliners 40 Paul Poiret 116 Cres 46 Mariano Fortuny 118 Charles James 50 And Also: Redfern, Creed, Paquin, 122 American Ready-to-Wear Cheruit, Callot Soeurs, Margaine-Lacroix, 126 Claire McCardell Drecoll, Lewis, Legroux and others 128 Menswear 54 People 130 Liberation 56 Menswear 132 Jacques Fath

60 The First World war / i9i4-i9i8 136 The Theatre of Fashion

62 Between the Wars ig1 9-1 939 140 The Fifties

62 Historical Review 140 Historical Review 66 Jeanne Lanvin 144 Christian Dior 70 Jean Patou 150 Pierre Balmain and Norman Norell 72 Sportswear 152 Roger Vivier 74 Cabrielle Chanel 154 Balenciaga 80 Jewelry 160 Civenchy 82 Madeleine Vionnet 162 The Return ofChanel 86 Lucien Lelong 164 And Also: Guy Laroche, JacquesGriffe, 88 Elsa Schiaparelli Jean Desses, Carven, Line Vautrin, 92 And Also: Mainbocher, Molyneux, Ricci, Lola Prusac, Jacques Esterel and others Revillon, Valentina, Irfe, the parjiumeurs, 168 People Reboux, Perugia, Ferragamo and others 170 From Couture to Mass Manufacturing loo People 174 Lempereur and the Pioneer Stylists 102 Menswear 178 Pierre Cardin 104 The Influence ofAmerican Film 182 Menswear i85 Chapter 2 i960-2000 258 United States: Bill Blass, JohnAnthony, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Ceoffrey Beene, 1 186 The Sixties Adolfo, Stephen Burrows, James Galanos and others 186 Historical Review 266 Basics 192 Yves Saint Laurent 268 Agnes B. 196 Andr6 Courreges 270 People 198 Paco Rabanne 272 Menswear 200 Emilio Pucci and Rudi Cernreich 202 And Also: Louis FCraud, Ted Lapidus, Torrente. Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lesage, 276 The Eighties Emanuel Ungaro, Oleg Cassini, Anne Klein, Pauline Trigere, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, Historical Review Valentino, Simonetta, Capucci and others Azzedine AlaTa 208 Swinging London Thierry Mugler 210 The Empire ofstyle: Ma'ime Arnodin Stephen Jones and Denise Fayolle, Emmanuelle Khanh, and Claude Montana Christiane Bailly, Cacharel, DorothCe Bis, Jean-PaulGaultier Michele Rosier, Prisunic and others Ciorgio Armani 218 People Ralph Lauren 220 Menswear Manolo Blahnik and Adidas Zoran and Lagerfeld at Chanel Sybilla and Romeo Cigli 224 Street Fashion Christian Lacroix MarithC Franqois Cirbaud and and Anti-Fashion i968-1 972 & Jean-Charlesde Castelbajac 1 232 Anti-Fashion Becomes Big Business And Also: MyrPne de Premonville, Michel Klein, Chantal Thomass, 1 234 The Seventies Guy Paulin, Anne-Marie Beretta, Marc Audibet, Jean-Remy Daumas, 234 Historical Review Jean Colonna, Kansai Yamamoto, 238 France: Marc Bohan, Sonia Rykiel. Junko Koshino, Junko Shimada, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, lssey Miyake Walter Steiger, Carolina Herrera, and others Carolyne Daehm, Perry Ellis, 248 London: Mr Freedom, Ossie Clark, lsaac Mizrahi and others Zandra Rhodes and Anthony Price The Japanese Phenomenon 250 Italy: Capucci, Mila Schon, Krizia, Cerruti, People Cianfranco Ferre, Ciorgio Armani, Walter Albini, Laura Biagiotti, Missoni and others 1 316 The Nineties 1 377 Conclusion

31 6 Historical Review 322 Yohji Yamamoto 385 Bibliography 324 Cianni Versace 390 Picture Credits 326 Comme des Carqons 1 394 Acknowledgments 328 Martine Sitbon 396 Index 330' Vivienne Westwood 1 332 Cucci 334 Prada 336 The Life ofa De-Luxe Label: Hermes, Celine, Vuitton, Trussardi, Loewe and others 340 JilSander and Martin Margiela 342 Paul Smith, Philip Treacy and Patrick Cox 344 Helmut Lang and Dolce & Cabbana 346 Marc Jacobsand Michael Kors 348 Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester 350 John Calliano and Alexander McQueen 352 Dior and Civenchy 354 Cianfranco Ferre and Alberta Ferretti 356 Thierry Mugler and jean-Paul Caultier 358 Adeline Andre and Chanel 360 Walter Van Beirendonck and Rifat Ozbek 362 Donna Karan and Cap 364 Calvin Klein 366 And Also: Thimister, Ocimar Versolato, Chr~stopheRouxel, Dominique Sirop, Narciso Rodriguez, Cristina Ortiz. Stella McCartney, Alber Elbaz, lsabel Marant, Todd Oldham, Dirk Bikkembergs, Nike and others 372 The Future 374 People l ndex

* Asterisks indicate pages Ascoli, Marc 328 iy*,138?:, 146, 178, 194 Brioni 183*, 221 4 where the reference is quoted Ashley, Laura 232, 233" BCraud, Jean 32" Brodovitch, Alexey 168

I and illustrated, or illustrated Audibet, Marc 310 Beretta, Anne-Marie 308*, Bronte sisters, 232 only. Auermann, Nadja 325" 310 Brooks, Louise 104" Augustabernard 94 Bergdorf and Coodman Brown, James 228 Avedon, Richard 325" 122,262 Bruce, Stephen 226" BergC, Pierre 194, 210, 212 Brummell. George Bryan Adam, Pauline 114 B Bergere, Eric 366, 369* 8, 587 59 Adidas 297" Bacall, Lauren 168" Bernhardt, Sarah 38, 39, Burberry, Thomas 265. 266" Adolfo, F. Sardina 265 Baez, Joan 189 54" Burrows, Stephen igo*. Adrian, Gilbert 104 Bailey, David 208, 219" Bet, Xuly 371" 228, 265 Aeffe see Perretti, Alberta Bailly, Christiane 177, 213 Bettina 133", 135". 160, Aghion, Gaby 177 Baker, JosCphine 62,101* 161" C Agnel 95 Bakst, L6on 50, 55" Biagiotti, Laura 255 Cacharel 210". 214, 220 Agnelli, Morella 207 Balenciaga, Cristobal 24, Bianchini-F6rier 135" Cadette 242 118, 134", 154-159". 160, Biba 18, 190, 208" Caldagues. Paul 136 172,196,198,204,326~ 366, Biki 235 Callaghan 254 AimCe, Anouk 189 381" Bikkembergs, Dirk 369 Callot Soeurs 50 Ala'ia. Azzedine 13*, 118, Ballantine 242 Birkin, Jane 270" Campbell, Naomi 3174, 282.~85"~318, 379 Balmain, Pierre 86, 138*, Birtwell. Cecilia 208 3614 Albini, Walter 251 .A, 254, 146, iso", 152, 242,366 Bjork 375" Capucci, Roberto 207,251 255" Banier, Fran~ois-Marie Blahnik, Manolo 296"-297 Cardin, Pierre go, 177, 178- Alby, Pierre d' 174. 176"~ 3749< Blass, Bill 204, 258. 263- 181*, 220, 236,272 235,310 Banton, Travis 104 265* Carel 242 Alexandra, queen consort of Bardot, Brigitte 164, 168*, Bogart, Humphrey 168" Carita, Maria and Rosy England 31" 174,188, 232 Bohan, Marc 238 Alexandre de Paris 312 Barney's 318 Boivin 80" Carnegie, Hattie 122. 150, Amies, Hardy is*, 110 Barychnikov, Mikha'il 304 Boldoni, Giovanni 56" 204 AndrC, Adeline 3584 Bassman, Lillian 120" Bonabel, iliane 138" Cartier 80, 81* Anthony, John 258 Bates, John 208 Boucheron 81" Carven, Carmen de Antonio 2174, 231" Batthiany, Guyla 106" Boulat, Pierre 193" Tommaso, called 164,166 Apollinaire, Cuillaume 30 Baudelaire, Charles 8 Bouquin. Jean 232" Casa TorrPs, Marquise de Aragon, Louis 38 BaufumC, Fransois 238 Bousquet, Jean 210*, 214 154 Arbus, AndrC 64 Beatles, The 190, 208, Boussac, Marcel 146 Casati, Marquise de 49 Arletts L6onie Bathiat, 209" Bowie. David 228, 249" Cashin, Bonnie 124 called go Beaumont, Etienne. Comte Boy George 288,315" Cassandre, Adolphe Armani, Giorgio 239, 251"~ de 56" Brancusi, Constantin 38, 39 Mouron, called 16' 252*, 254, 2g~-zg3*,368". Beaurepaire, AndrC 138 Brando, Marlon 182, 183", Cassini, Oleg 204, 219" 370 Beene. Geoffrey 262-263* 224 Castelbajac, Jean-Charles de Arnault, Bernard 379* Belleteste 177 Branquinho, VCronique 383>' 177, 246*, 306-307" Arnodin, Ma'im6 212, 2144, Benetton 318" Braque, Georges 38 CCline 336*, 346 21 6 BCrard, Christian 89*, go, Breton, Andr6 38 Cerruti. Nino 366 Chakkal, Roland 244 Daumas, lean-Remy 310 Edwige 314" Calitzine, Irene, Princess 94 Chalayan, Hussein 376" Dautry, Raoul 136 Ekberg, Anita 189 Calliano, John 3524-353. Chanel, Gabrielle 29*, 50, Davis, Angela 227*, 228 Elbaz, Alber 366 350'~. 381 52, 65, 74-79", 95, 96, 106, Dean, James 182,183f Elizabeth II, queen of Gap 363" 123, 126, 162-i63*, 172,189, De Chirico, Ciorgio 38, 146 England 114. 152, 330 Garavani, Valentino see 192, 214,236,239, 240, Delahaye, Jacques 177 Ellis. Perry 312 Valentino 244, 298-301'~, 314f, 318, Delettrez 95 Escada 369 Garbo, Greta go, IO~", 258 319,358-359", 379" Dell'Acqua, Alessandro Esterel, Jacques 164, 202 Caultier, Jean-Paul 244, Charbonnier, Jean-Philippe 383" Evangelists, Linda 317*, 331 288, 2go-2gi*, 310, 312, 341, 165" Delman 152 Chaumet 30 Demarchelier, Patrick 336" Cheruit, Madeleine 50 Demeulemeester, Ann 348" Faberge 30 Genny 254 Chloe 177, 242. 312,328, Deneuve, Catherine 219;k Faithfull, Marianne 188*, Gernreich, Rudi 200-201*. 366,367" Depp, Johnny 374" 189 263 Chow, Tina 315* Derain, Andre 45 Falaise. Loulou de la 314* Ghesquiere. Nicolas 366, Clarins 357:k De Sole, Domenico 332, Falaise, Maxime de la 177 3814 Clark, Ossie 208, 244, 248" 379 Farida 13" Giacometti, Alberto go Claxton, William 201" Dess's, Jean 135". 164, Fath, Genevieve 132 Gigli, Romeo 302-303" Cligman, Leon 177 l66,167;v Fath, Jacques 110, iii~v.132- Gilbert and George 14-15" Coard, Marcel 3yk DiagY' ~lev, Serge 30, 138 133", 134", 166 Girbaud, Marithe & Cobson, Corinne 383" Diana, Princess of Wales Fayolle, Denise 214.1, 216 Franqois 306' Cocteau, Jean 30, 45, 5Pk, 318, 324,375" Fellini, Federico 206" Giroud. Franqoise 141 62, 78, go, 101, 138, 178, Diba, Farah, Empress 207 Fendi 242, 251 Giudicelli, Tan 177 194 , Dietrich, Marlene 105". 258 Feraud. Louis igi", 202 Civenchy, Hubert James Colette 45, 63 Dignimont, Andre 138 Ferragamo, Salvatore 97, Taffh de 86, go, 202, 218*, Colonna, Jean 310 Dim 216% 98" 244, 353". 366 Comme des Garsons 14. Dior, Christian 86, 139, 142, Ferre, Gianfranco 251". Godard, Jean-Luc 188, 15", 313, 326-3~7"~370 144-149"~152, 154, 172. 173, 254.354"-355 189":. 21 g Complice 254 178, 181. 185. 192, 194. 203. Ferreiro, Denise 99" Golo 226" Comte, Michel 345" 224, 238, 258, 352"-353, 366, Ferretti, Alberta 355?: Goude, Jean-Paul 13" Conde Nast 101 381 Feruch, Gilbert 272, 274 Coya. Francisco de 158 Conran, Terence 216 Doisneau, Robert 137" Fiorucci, Elio 228-230", Grau-Sala, Emilio 138 Converse 266" Dolce & Gabbana 345" 234" Gray, Eileen 394 Coppola, Sofia 380" Dorothee Bis 18, 214, 2151 Foale & Tuffin 208 Creco, Juliette 189 Coty, Franqois 95'? Doucet, Jacques 34. 36"-39. Fonda, Jane 2714 Gres, Alix 116-117" Courreges, Andre 177, 189, 40, 44.46. 86 Fontana, Graziella 177 Griffe, Jacques 164s: ig6-197~~,204, 208, 220, Douking, Georges 138 Ford, Tom 332-333*, 377*, Gris, Juan 39" 224,236,238 Drecoll, Christoffvon 51 379 Gruau. Rene 'g*, 1404 Cox, Patrick 342.343" Dreyfuss, Jerbme 372" Fortuny, Mariano 46-49" Grumbach, Didier 242, Crawford, Cindy 317" Dr Martens 230,267*, 370 Fouquet 81 * 244,246 Crawford, Joan 122 Du Pont de Nemours 310 Fragonard, Jean Honor.6 152 Cucci 23, 254, 332-333*, 336 Createurs et Industriels, Duchamp, Marcel 38, 88 Frank, Jean-Michel 64, go, Gudule 18 242,244,246 Dufour, Cilles 366 318 Guerlain 94". g6 Creed. Charles 50 Dub, Raoul 40,146 Fratini, Nina 208 Cuibourge, Philippe 238, Cunard, Nancy loo* Dumas, Jean-Louis 336 Fressange, lnes de la 314" Duncan, lsadora 49 Furstenberg, Diane Von D Duse. Eleonora 49 H Dahl-Wolfe, Louise 127"~ Dutronc, Jacques 274" Haines, Pat 224;k 169" Halpert, Joseph 132 Dali, Salvador go, 118 Gainsbourg, Serge 270" Halston, Roy Halston Darre, Vincent 381" Edward Vlll 92. 102 Calanos, James 122, 261*, Frowick, called 259". 262 Dassler, Adi see Adidas Edwards, Blake 219 265 Hardy, Franqoise 189 Hartnell, Norman 93". 101, Kelly, Grace 169" Legroux 52, 115:> Mandelli, Mariuccia see 110 Kennedy, Jacky 207, 219" Lelong, Lucien 86-874,108, Krizia Hayes, lsaac 228 Kenzo 24, 23g4, 240,242*, 146 Mao Zedong 274" Hayworth, Rita 169": 243"t 379;\ Lempereur, Albert 143, 174- Marant, lsabel 3ig'?. 366 Head, Edith 104 Khanh, Emmanuelle 176"~ 175" Mare, Andre 64 Hechter, Daniel 177, 213 177. 213. 224, 226, 244 Lenglen, Suzanne 70, 73" Margaine-Lacroix 51 Hemingway, Ernest 62 Klein, Anne 124, 204, 265, Marge, Nicole de la 189 Hemingway, Margaux 270'~ 363 Lepage, Serge 202 Margiela, Martin 24. 336, Hepburn. Audrey 160,189, Klein, Calvin 260, 293, Lepape, Georges 44*, 53 341" 218" 364*-365 Leroux, Gaston g6 Marina de GrPce 92 Hepburn, Katharine loqik, Klein, Michel 244, 309 Leroy, Veronique 3734 Marongiu. Marcel 383" 258 Klein, William i86*, 206" Les 3 Suisses 216 Martial et Armand 94 Hermes 23, 724, 93, 16g*, Knapp, Peter 180*, 1974, Lesage 24*, 88", 167*, 203 Marzotto 250 336-337" 37Pr 204"~ 205", 215", 222"- Leser, Tina 124, 125" Massaro, Raymond 162" Herrera, Caroline 312 223". 235*, 237", 243", 248* Let it Rock 18, 230 Masson, AndrC 38

Horst, Horst P. g1 4, 125* Knight, Nick 328-3zg*, Levi-Strauss &CO. 2~4-~, Mata Hari 54" Horva, Frank 18" 340"~ 351" 259,267" Matisse. Henri 45, 194 Hoyningen-Huene, George Kochno, Boris 138 Lewis 52 Maxwell, Vera 124 6gh, 84"-85", 96*, 152 Kors, Michael 336*, 346- Lichtenstein. Roy 17" Maywald, Willy 117"~147" Hughes, Howard 104 347*< Lifar, Serge 77", 79" McCardell, Claire 124, 126- Koshino, Junko 312 Lindbergh, Peter 300"- 127" I Krizia 242, 251*, 252, 253*, 301*, 317"~357". 362" McCartney, Stella 366, 367" lndreco 177 254 Lingen, Tom van 382>? McDonald, Julien 353 Invest Corp. 332 Kublin, Jean 155*, 156*- Lipschitz, Ralf see Lauren, McLaren, Malcolm 230, lrfe 94 157?:,158" Ralph 330 Iribe, Paul 50, 53, 66, 68>? Loewe 336,339". 366 McLaughlin, Frances 149'- Loewy, Raymond 216 163*, 164" I Lacoste, RenC 102,266" Lombard, Carole io5$: McLean, Evalyn Walsh 55" Jackson Five, The 227* Lacroix, Christian 280", Lopez, Antonio see Antonio McMenamy, Kristen 325" Jacobs, Marc 336,338", 304-305" Lord SL Taylor 132 McQueen, Alexander 24, 346>>,380", 381 Lafaurie, jeanne 110 Louboutin, Christian 366" 350-351'"~353 * Jacobs, Max 146 Lagerfeld, Karl 24. 27*, 177, Louis, jean 122, 169" Meisel, Steven 361" Jacobson. Elie and 239, 242, 244*, 245*, 251, Louis XIV 8 Mello, Dawn 332 Jacqueline 214, 215" 298-299", 312, 314", 358- Lowit, Roxanne 12", 278", MendPs 210,235,238,242, Jagger, Bianca 314" 359*, 379 314"~315". 331 244 jagger, Mick 274% Lago, Betty 278't Lubin, Jean-Fransois 95 Merode, Cl60 de 49, 55" James, Charles 118-121" Lang, Helmut 344"-345 Lucile 50 Meyer, Adolph, Baron de Jeanmaire, Zizi 189 Lanvin, Jeanne 66-69", Luna, Donyale 219" 57'? Jenny 94 288,366 Lutens, Serge 25" Mic-Mac 18 John, Elton 228,325" Lanvin, Marie-Blanche 66", LVMH 346, 353,366, 379" Michals, Duane 259" Johnson. Betsey 204,265 68 Lyon, Sue 189 Milhaud, Darius 58" Johnson, Beverly 270" Lapidus, Ted 202 Miller, Lee 6g", 101 )ones, Stephen 288" Larmon, Leila 226" M Mir6, Joan 38 Joseph 310 Laroche, Guy 152, 164-165" Madonna 324 Missoni, Ottavio and Rosita Jourdan, Charles 242 Lartigue, Jacques Henri 4*, Mafia 216 256" 33". 35" Mainbocher, Main Mitterrand, Fransois 281 K Lauren, Ralph 260, zg4*-295 Rousseau Bocher, called Miyake, lssey 49, 244, Kamali, Norma 265, 310" Lazareff, HelPne 173 92, 93", 106 245", 320" Karan, Donna 362"-363 Le Bihan, Marc 3734 Malcles. Jean-Denis 138 Mizrahi, lsaac 312 Karina, Anna 189" Le Gardien 273" Mallet-Stevens, Robert 50 Molinard 95 Kawakubo, Rei see Comme Le Monnier 115" Man Ray 209:, 87*, 88, Molyneux 50, 92,110, 123 des Garqons Legrain, Pierre 39 Mondrian, Piet 194" Monroe, Marilyn 168" Picabia, Francis 38,88 Rejane, Cabrielle R@, Scherrer, Jean-Louis 203 Montana, Claude 244. 288- Picasso, Pablo 30,39, 45, called 38>? Schiano, Marina 195'k 28gt,310. 312 62.78 Remy, Suzanne 152 Schiaparelli. Elsa 65,88- Montesquiou, Robert, Picasso, Paloma 315" Renta, Oscar de la 204, 258, 89*,lO7", 123, 134" Comte de 56" Pierre et Gilles, 26.:: 260*,312 Schlumberger, Jean 142 Morand, Paul 62 Piguet, Robert 110, 146, Reverdy, Pierre 38 Scholte 102 Morrison, Jim 227" 148,166 Revillon 93 SchBn, Mila 251,256 Morton, Digby 110 Pinaud 95 Rhodes, Zandra 208,248" Scott, Barrie 228 Moschino 355,384* Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Ricci, Nina 93,110, 136, 152, Scott, Jeremy 383'v Moss, Kate 374'? 332":;.37g4 177,312 Scott, Ken 254 Mountbatten, Lady lol* Pipart, CCrard 177 Ricci, Robert 93,136 Seberg, Jean 189,218.2 Mourgue, Pierre 115" Pizzi, Pier Luigi 221" Rigaud 95 Seidner, David io*,290$: Mr Freedom 248" Poiret, Denise 45" Roberts, Tornmy see Sem, Georges Goursat, Mugler, Thierry 118, 244, Poiret, Paul 30,34,39,40- Mr Freedom called 34* ~79%~286-287*, 288, 310. 45", 46,50, 52, 54$:. 74. 88, Rochas, Marcel 110,381" Sheppard. Eugenia 251

312,356". 379 ~\ 96. 97. 140,278,350 Rodier, Eugene 235 Shiseido 379* Muir, jean 244 Polanski, Roman 271" Rodriguez, Narciso 336, Shimada, junko 312 Muiioz, Anne-Marie 238 Pollock, Alice 248 33gr,366 Shrimpton, Jean 189,218", Mussolini, Benito 250 Pompidou, faude 236 Roehm, Carolyn 312 222-223" Pompidou, , eorges 178, Roger et Gallet 95 Sieff, Jeanloup 195" I N 236 I Rolling Stones, The 208, Simonetta 206'k, 207 Naudet, Simone 114 Porter, Thea 208 228 Sirnons, Raf 372" Negrin, Henriette 46 Pougy, Liane de 49,54": Rosier, Michele 177, 211":". Simpson, Wallis see Newton, Helmut 277" Prada 23,282'?, 334-335*, 21 3 Windsor, Duchess of Nike 316.370 336,3812 Ross, Diana 228,229* Sirop, Dominique 366 Norell, Norman 122, 150- Premet 94 Rostand, Edmond 59%. 66 Sitbon, Madine 328-329;k 151" PrCmonville. Myrene de Rouff, Maggy 110 Slimane, Hedi 381 309 Rousseau. Henri, called Le Smith. Paul 342" 0 Price, Anthony 208, 249" Douanier 39,240 Snow, Carmel 147 Oldham, Todd 366 Prisunic 212*, 216 Rouxel, Christophe 366 Sonny and Cher 227" Oliver, Andre 181 Promostyl 216 Roversi, Paolo Sorbier, Franck 366 Ortiz, Cristina 366 Proust, Marcel 30,49, 62 Russell, Jane 104 Sorel, Cecile 38 Ozbek, Rifat 355. 360-361" Prouvost, Jean 132 Rykiel, Sonia 214,240"~ 318 Speliopoulos, Peter 366 Prussac, Lola 166 Steiger, Walter 312 P Pucci, Emilio 200" S Stiebel, Victor 110 Pablo and Delia, 246 Putman, Andree 246 Sade, Marquis de 330 Stieglitz, Alfred 88 Paley, Natalie 86 Saene, Dirk van 383>? Sting 324 Paquin 50, 5iy?. 166,178 Q Saint Laurent, Yves TO*,18, Stone, Sharon 363 Paraphernalia 26y2 Quant, Mary 18,189, 208, 118, 152, 177,185;k, 189, 192- Strange, Steve 288 Parkinson, Norman 1235:, 209*, 224 195", 203. 210, 212. 213", Stravinski, lgor 30. 55", 78 231" Quorum 248 224,225,238*,242,244, Sue, Louis 40,50, 64 Patitz, Tatjana 317" 366,377",379" Swanson, Gloria 122 Patou, Jean 70-71".123. R Saint-Cyr, Claude 114,115" Sybilla 302" 242,308 Rabanne, Paco 198-1994 San Giorgio 254 Paulette 114 Rambova, Natasha 474 Sanchez, Fernando 244 T Paulin, Guy 310 Rateau, Armand-Albert 66, Sander, Jil 340*-341 Takada, Kenzo see Kenzo Peccinotti, Harri 211" 68" Sant'Angelo, Giorgio di Tapie, Bernard 116 Peretti, Elsa 203*,262 Ravel, Maurice 63 203"~204 Tarlazzi, Angelo 244,308- Perier, jean-Marie 188*, R6be 152 Santos-Dumont, Alberto 30 309" 274" Reboux, Carolin 52, g6":, 97 Sassoon, Vidal 208 Tate, Sharon 271" Perugia, Andre 97" Redfern. Charles Poynter Sathal, Fred 3724 Tayama, Atsuro 372'V Pianko, Zyga see Alby, Pierre d' Sauguet, Henri 139,146 Testa-Taroni 221" Testino, Mario 333", 364*, U Vincent. Fran~oise214 Weston 275 369" Ungaro, Emanuel 203, Viramontes 288" Westwood, Vivienne 230, Thatcher, Margaret 330 205;k. 210, 381" Viollet 95 248, 330.331" Thimister, Josephus * Vionnet, Madeleine, 51, 65, Whitaker, Mark 382" Melchior 366 v 82-85"? 92, 106, 123, 126, Wild and Lethal Trash, see Thimmonier, Barthelemy Valentina 94 366 Van Beirendonck, Walter 51, 377 Valentino 205, 207*, 242, Visconti, Simonetta see Windsor, Duchess of go, 92 Thomass, Chantal 309 244. 251 Simonetta Wood, Natalie 89 Thompson, Michael 347" Vallhonrat, Javier 3034, Vivier, Roger 152-153" Worth, Frederick 8, 24, 34, Tiffany, Charles Lewis 262 305"~ 328 Vlaminck. Maurice de 45 36, 40, 50,192 Timwear 242 Valois, Rose ii5* Vogel, Lucien 53 Worth, Caston 378 Toledo, lsabel 22" Van Beirendonck, Walter Vramant, Madeleine 110 Toledo, Ruben 8*, 23 360* Vreeland, Diana 12*, 18 Y Tomlinson, Marcus 376" Van Cleef & Arpels 80*, Vuitton, Louis P, 23, 336, Yamamoto, Kansai 310 Tommaso, Carmen de 81*, 142 338". 346. 381" Yamamoto, Yohji 313'~.318. see Carven Van Dongen, Kees 45 322-323*, 326,370 \ Torrente 202 Van Noten, Dries 348%-349 W Youssoupoff, Felix 94 Toscani, Oliviero 273". 318" Vaskene. Ceorges 177 Wakhevitch, Ceorges 138 Yurkievich, Caspard 373" Touchagues, Louis 138 Vautrin, Line 164,166" Warhol, Andy 259 Toussaint, Jeanne 80 V6lasquez. Diego de 158 Watson, Albert 298" z Townley Frocks 126 Venet, Philippe 202, 244 Watteau, Antoine 36 Zoran, Ladicorbic) 298" Travolta, John 276" Verdura, Fulco di 78*, 142 Weber, Bruce 294" Zucca 383" Treacy, Philip 342'y Versace, Donatella 324 Weill, jean-Claude 143, 170 Zuckerman, Ben 265 Trigere, Pauline 204, 265 Versace, Cianni 254,324- Weinberg, Salomon, called Zurbardn, Francisco de 158 Trussardi 339" 325" SamY 235 Turlington, Christy 3174 Versolato, Ocimar 366 Wertheimer, Alain 358 Twiggy 187*, 189, 208" Veruschka 189, 207*, 238" West, Mae go Victoire 192" Westminster, Duke of 77