FRANCOIS BAUDOT FASHION The Twentieth Century Universe Contents 8 Foreword 11 Introduction 1 30 The Belle epoquel igoo-i gi4 106 The Second World War 1939-1 945 30 Historical Review 106 Historical Review 36 Jacques Doucet 114 The Reign ofthe Milliners 40 Paul Poiret 116 Cres 46 Mariano Fortuny 118 Charles James 50 And Also: Redfern, Creed, Paquin, 122 American Ready-to-Wear Cheruit, Callot Soeurs, Margaine-Lacroix, 126 Claire McCardell Drecoll, Lewis, Legroux and others 128 Menswear 54 People 130 Liberation 56 Menswear 132 Jacques Fath 60 The First World war / i9i4-i9i8 136 The Theatre of Fashion 62 Between the Wars ig1 9-1 939 140 The Fifties 62 Historical Review 140 Historical Review 66 Jeanne Lanvin 144 Christian Dior 70 Jean Patou 150 Pierre Balmain and Norman Norell 72 Sportswear 152 Roger Vivier 74 Cabrielle Chanel 154 Balenciaga 80 Jewelry 160 Civenchy 82 Madeleine Vionnet 162 The Return ofChanel 86 Lucien Lelong 164 And Also: Guy Laroche, JacquesGriffe, 88 Elsa Schiaparelli Jean Desses, Carven, Line Vautrin, 92 And Also: Mainbocher, Molyneux, Ricci, Lola Prusac, Jacques Esterel and others Revillon, Valentina, Irfe, the parjiumeurs, 168 People Reboux, Perugia, Ferragamo and others 170 From Couture to Mass Manufacturing loo People 174 Lempereur and the Pioneer Stylists 102 Menswear 178 Pierre Cardin 104 The Influence ofAmerican Film 182 Menswear i85 Chapter 2 i960-2000 258 United States: Bill Blass, JohnAnthony, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Ceoffrey Beene, 1 186 The Sixties Adolfo, Stephen Burrows, James Galanos and others 186 Historical Review 266 Basics 192 Yves Saint Laurent 268 Agnes B. 196 Andr6 Courreges 270 People 198 Paco Rabanne 272 Menswear 200 Emilio Pucci and Rudi Cernreich 202 And Also: Louis FCraud, Ted Lapidus, Torrente. Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lesage, 276 The Eighties Emanuel Ungaro, Oleg Cassini, Anne Klein, Pauline Trigere, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, Historical Review Valentino, Simonetta, Capucci and others Azzedine AlaTa 208 Swinging London Thierry Mugler 210 The Empire ofstyle: Ma'ime Arnodin Stephen Jones and Denise Fayolle, Emmanuelle Khanh, and Claude Montana Christiane Bailly, Cacharel, DorothCe Bis, Jean-PaulGaultier Michele Rosier, Prisunic and others Ciorgio Armani 218 People Ralph Lauren 220 Menswear Manolo Blahnik and Adidas Zoran and Lagerfeld at Chanel Sybilla and Romeo Cigli 224 Street Fashion Christian Lacroix MarithC Franqois Cirbaud and and Anti-Fashion i968-1 972 & Jean-Charlesde Castelbajac 1 232 Anti-Fashion Becomes Big Business And Also: MyrPne de Premonville, Michel Klein, Chantal Thomass, 1 234 The Seventies Guy Paulin, Anne-Marie Beretta, Marc Audibet, Jean-Remy Daumas, 234 Historical Review Jean Colonna, Kansai Yamamoto, 238 France: Marc Bohan, Sonia Rykiel. Junko Koshino, Junko Shimada, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, lssey Miyake Walter Steiger, Carolina Herrera, and others Carolyne Daehm, Perry Ellis, 248 London: Mr Freedom, Ossie Clark, lsaac Mizrahi and others Zandra Rhodes and Anthony Price The Japanese Phenomenon 250 Italy: Capucci, Mila Schon, Krizia, Cerruti, People Cianfranco Ferre, Ciorgio Armani, Walter Albini, Laura Biagiotti, Missoni and others 1 316 The Nineties 1 377 Conclusion 31 6 Historical Review 322 Yohji Yamamoto 385 Bibliography 324 Cianni Versace 390 Picture Credits 326 Comme des Carqons 1 394 Acknowledgments 328 Martine Sitbon 396 Index 330' Vivienne Westwood 1 332 Cucci 334 Prada 336 The Life ofa De-Luxe Label: Hermes, Celine, Vuitton, Trussardi, Loewe and others 340 JilSander and Martin Margiela 342 Paul Smith, Philip Treacy and Patrick Cox 344 Helmut Lang and Dolce & Cabbana 346 Marc Jacobsand Michael Kors 348 Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester 350 John Calliano and Alexander McQueen 352 Dior and Civenchy 354 Cianfranco Ferre and Alberta Ferretti 356 Thierry Mugler and jean-Paul Caultier 358 Adeline Andre and Chanel 360 Walter Van Beirendonck and Rifat Ozbek 362 Donna Karan and Cap 364 Calvin Klein 366 And Also: Thimister, Ocimar Versolato, Chr~stopheRouxel, Dominique Sirop, Narciso Rodriguez, Cristina Ortiz. Stella McCartney, Alber Elbaz, lsabel Marant, Todd Oldham, Dirk Bikkembergs, Nike and others 372 The Future 374 People l ndex * Asterisks indicate pages Ascoli, Marc 328 iy*,138?:, 146, 178, 194 Brioni 183*, 221 4 where the reference is quoted Ashley, Laura 232, 233" BCraud, Jean 32" Brodovitch, Alexey 168 I and illustrated, or illustrated Audibet, Marc 310 Beretta, Anne-Marie 308*, Bronte sisters, 232 only. Auermann, Nadja 325" 310 Brooks, Louise 104" Augustabernard 94 Bergdorf and Coodman Brown, James 228 Avedon, Richard 325" 122,262 Bruce, Stephen 226" BergC, Pierre 194, 210, 212 Brummell. George Bryan Adam, Pauline 114 B Bergere, Eric 366, 369* 8, 587 59 Adidas 297" Bacall, Lauren 168" Bernhardt, Sarah 38, 39, Burberry, Thomas 265. 266" Adolfo, F. Sardina 265 Baez, Joan 189 54" Burrows, Stephen igo*. Adrian, Gilbert 104 Bailey, David 208, 219" Bet, Xuly 371" 228, 265 Aeffe see Perretti, Alberta Bailly, Christiane 177, 213 Bettina 133", 135". 160, Aghion, Gaby 177 Baker, JosCphine 62,101* 161" C Agnel 95 Bakst, L6on 50, 55" Biagiotti, Laura 255 Cacharel 210". 214, 220 Agnelli, Morella 207 Balenciaga, Cristobal 24, Bianchini-F6rier 135" Cadette 242 118, 134", 154-159". 160, Biba 18, 190, 208" Caldagues. Paul 136 172,196,198,204,326~ 366, Biki 235 Callaghan 254 AimCe, Anouk 189 381" Bikkembergs, Dirk 369 Callot Soeurs 50 Ala'ia. Azzedine 13*, 118, Ballantine 242 Birkin, Jane 270" Campbell, Naomi 3174, 282.~85"~318, 379 Balmain, Pierre 86, 138*, Birtwell. Cecilia 208 3614 Albini, Walter 251 .A, 254, 146, iso", 152, 242,366 Bjork 375" Capucci, Roberto 207,251 255" Banier, Fran~ois-Marie Blahnik, Manolo 296"-297 Cardin, Pierre go, 177, 178- Alby, Pierre d' 174. 176"~ 3749< Blass, Bill 204, 258. 263- 181*, 220, 236,272 235,310 Banton, Travis 104 265* Carel 242 Alexandra, queen consort of Bardot, Brigitte 164, 168*, Bogart, Humphrey 168" Carita, Maria and Rosy England 31" 174,188, 232 Bohan, Marc 238 Alexandre de Paris 312 Barney's 318 Boivin 80" Carnegie, Hattie 122. 150, Amies, Hardy is*, 110 Barychnikov, Mikha'il 304 Boldoni, Giovanni 56" 204 AndrC, Adeline 3584 Bassman, Lillian 120" Bonabel, iliane 138" Cartier 80, 81* Anthony, John 258 Bates, John 208 Boucheron 81" Carven, Carmen de Antonio 2174, 231" Batthiany, Guyla 106" Boulat, Pierre 193" Tommaso, called 164,166 Apollinaire, Cuillaume 30 Baudelaire, Charles 8 Bouquin. Jean 232" Casa TorrPs, Marquise de Aragon, Louis 38 BaufumC, Fransois 238 Bousquet, Jean 210*, 214 154 Arbus, AndrC 64 Beatles, The 190, 208, Boussac, Marcel 146 Casati, Marquise de 49 Arletts L6onie Bathiat, 209" Bowie. David 228, 249" Cashin, Bonnie 124 called go Beaumont, Etienne. Comte Boy George 288,315" Cassandre, Adolphe Armani, Giorgio 239, 251"~ de 56" Brancusi, Constantin 38, 39 Mouron, called 16' 252*, 254, 2g~-zg3*,368". Beaurepaire, AndrC 138 Brando, Marlon 182, 183", Cassini, Oleg 204, 219" 370 Beene. Geoffrey 262-263* 224 Castelbajac, Jean-Charles de Arnault, Bernard 379* Belleteste 177 Branquinho, VCronique 383>' 177, 246*, 306-307" Arnodin, Ma'im6 212, 2144, Benetton 318" Braque, Georges 38 CCline 336*, 346 21 6 BCrard, Christian 89*, go, Breton, Andr6 38 Cerruti. Nino 366 Chakkal, Roland 244 Daumas, lean-Remy 310 Edwige 314" Calitzine, Irene, Princess 94 Chalayan, Hussein 376" Dautry, Raoul 136 Ekberg, Anita 189 Calliano, John 3524-353. Chanel, Gabrielle 29*, 50, Davis, Angela 227*, 228 Elbaz, Alber 366 350'~. 381 52, 65, 74-79", 95, 96, 106, Dean, James 182,183f Elizabeth II, queen of Gap 363" 123, 126, 162-i63*, 172,189, De Chirico, Ciorgio 38, 146 England 114. 152, 330 Garavani, Valentino see 192, 214,236,239, 240, Delahaye, Jacques 177 Ellis. Perry 312 Valentino 244, 298-301'~, 314f, 318, Delettrez 95 Escada 369 Garbo, Greta go, IO~", 258 319,358-359", 379" Dell'Acqua, Alessandro Esterel, Jacques 164, 202 Caultier, Jean-Paul 244, Charbonnier, Jean-Philippe 383" Evangelists, Linda 317*, 331 288, 2go-2gi*, 310, 312, 341, 165" Delman 152 Chaumet 30 Demarchelier, Patrick 336" Cheruit, Madeleine 50 Demeulemeester, Ann 348" Faberge 30 Genny 254 Chloe 177, 242. 312,328, Deneuve, Catherine 219;k Faithfull, Marianne 188*, Gernreich, Rudi 200-201*. 366,367" Depp, Johnny 374" 189 263 Chow, Tina 315* Derain, Andre 45 Falaise. Loulou de la 314* Ghesquiere. Nicolas 366, Clarins 357:k De Sole, Domenico 332, Falaise, Maxime de la 177 3814 Clark, Ossie 208, 244, 248" 379 Farida 13" Giacometti, Alberto go Claxton, William 201" Dess's, Jean 135". 164, Fath, Genevieve 132 Gigli, Romeo 302-303" Cligman, Leon 177 l66,167;v Fath, Jacques 110, iii~v.132- Gilbert and George 14-15" Coard, Marcel 3yk DiagY' ~lev, Serge 30, 138 133", 134", 166 Girbaud, Marithe & Cobson, Corinne 383" Diana, Princess of Wales Fayolle, Denise 214.1, 216 Franqois 306' Cocteau, Jean 30, 45, 5Pk, 318, 324,375" Fellini, Federico 206" Giroud. Franqoise 141 62, 78, go, 101, 138, 178, Diba, Farah, Empress 207 Fendi 242, 251 Giudicelli, Tan 177 194 , Dietrich, Marlene 105". 258 Feraud. Louis igi", 202 Civenchy, Hubert James Colette 45, 63 Dignimont, Andre 138 Ferragamo, Salvatore 97, Taffh de 86, go, 202, 218*, Colonna, Jean 310 Dim 216% 98" 244, 353". 366 Comme des Garsons 14. Dior, Christian 86, 139, 142, Ferre, Gianfranco 251". Godard, Jean-Luc 188, 15", 313, 326-3~7"~370 144-149"~152, 154, 172. 173, 254.354"-355 189":. 21 g Complice 254 178, 181. 185. 192, 194. 203. Ferreiro, Denise 99" Golo 226" Comte, Michel 345" 224, 238, 258, 352"-353, 366, Ferretti, Alberta 355?: Goude, Jean-Paul 13" Conde Nast 101 381 Feruch, Gilbert 272, 274 Coya. Francisco de 158 Conran, Terence 216 Doisneau, Robert 137" Fiorucci, Elio 228-230", Grau-Sala, Emilio 138 Converse 266" Dolce & Gabbana 345" 234" Gray, Eileen 394 Coppola, Sofia 380" Dorothee Bis 18, 214, 2151 Foale & Tuffin 208 Creco, Juliette 189 Coty, Franqois 95'? Doucet, Jacques 34. 36"-39.