TEMPLE to the SUN the History and Significance of Saltdean Lido

TEMPLE TO THE SUN The History and Significance of Saltdean Lido

Part of the Saltdean Lido Conservation Management Plan

by Jeremy Lake September 2016 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Contents PREFACE INTRODUCTION 4 This document supports and is an integral part of the Conservation Management Plan (CMP) for Saltdean Lido. The CMP sets out a vision for PART 1 the long-term management of the Lido and summarises its development UNDERSTANDING THE SITE 5 and significance.Saltdean Lido: Temple to the Sun sets out the historic development, context and significance of this nationally-important 1.1 INTRODUCING THE RESORT lido. It will also be of interest to those who want to learn more about AND ITS LIDO 5 Saltdean and the history of lidos in a national and international context. Beginnings 5 Jeremy Lake, a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, is the author of both Introducing Charles Neville 5 documents. He has worked in the historic environment field since the early The resort takes shape 9 The rotunda and the fountain awaiting restoration, in August 2015. Photo © Saltdean Lido Archive. 1980s and has – through involvement including the writing of a Conservation The lido and the Ocean Hotel 15 Management Plan for Sandford Parks Lido in Cheltenham – developed a strong The lido’s history 20 personal interest in the history of open air pools which has been used in the preparation of these reports. He is especially grateful for the encouragement 25 and support of Deryck Chester, one of the volunteer directors of the Saltdean 1.2 HOW THE LIDO DEVELOPED Lido Community Interest Company (SLCIC). Deryck has supplied many of 1937-8 25 the photographs and historic images used in both documents, credited to the 1963-4 29 Saltdean Lido Archive: he has also conducted some of the original research used 1965-70 31 in this document. The Saltdean Story, by local historian Douglas d’Enno, has also 1980s and 1990s 31 been a valuable source document. Historic England, the other SLCIC volunteer directors, Conran and Partners, and the team involved in the project (see 1.5) have provided useful feedback since the Conservation Management Plan was PART 2 first drafted in the summer and of autumn 2015. Particular thanks are due to SALTDEAN LIDO’S SIGNIFICANCE 32 Neil Reddick of Conran and Partners and Alma Howell of Historic England. Eleanor Barber has also provided invaluable assistance in editing the text. 2.1 SURVIVAL OF THE SITE AND FABRIC 32

Illustrations, plans and other original materials Copyright and permissions 2.2 HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE 32 are used by permission of the copyright owners and acknowledged where appropriate. Jeremy Lake retains copyright as the author of this report, under Historical background - Swimming to 1914 32 the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 with all rights reserved. However, Saltdean and inter-war history 37 all of the material in this and the associated report can be used by SLCIC for A temple to the sun 38 its own purposes, with due acknowledgements and on the usual understanding Landscapes for all and landscapes that such licence does not cover commercial use of the material by the applicant for display 40 or any third party. 2.3 arCHITECTURAL STYLE 42 Disclaimer This report and its findings should be used a whole; the authors will not be held responsible for any information extracted from this report and 2.4 THE RESORT LANDSCAPE 46 used out of context. Jeremy Lake 2.5 INTERNATIONAL COMPARISONS 48 September 2016 SOURCES 49

Front cover image. This advertising image conveys a sense of the spirit of place which the lido was intended to afford. The caption to the image states: ‘In its luxurious equipment and surroundings, it is without a rival in Southern England. Magnificent Swimming Pool 140’ x 66’, with ample space for 500 bathers. The blue coloured tiled bottom and sides give a beautifully coloured effect to the water, which is heated when required. Continuous treatment by latest system of filtration and purification’.

1 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

View of the lido from the south east. Photo © Saltdean Lido Archive.

View of the lido from the south west in summer 2015, showing in the foreground part of the screen placed around the main pool as part of the 1963-4 remodelling of the lido. Photo © Jeremy Lake

This image of the lido is taken from an undated insert from 1937 in The Daily Telegraph which advertises Saltdean. Image from the Saltdean Lido Archive.

2 3 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

INTRODUCTION PART 1 UNDERSTANDING THE SITE Saltdean Lido is one of the most well-preserved The strength of feeling prompted by local campaigns, Two critical factors converged in the decades around examples in England of an outdoor public swimming such as the fight to keep London Fields Lido in Hackney 1.1 INTRODUCING SALTDEAN 1900. One was a sharp decline in the profitability pool or lido. These were built in great numbers in the and Brockwell Lido in Brixton open, is testament to AND ITS LIDO of downland farming and the value of farmland in 1920s and 1930s. The great majority have closed down the values placed on lidos by their communities.4 Beginnings this area, a direct result of the farming depression since the 1970s due to declining public demand and In 2002 English Heritage (since April 2015 Historic starting in the late 1870s which hit corn-producing also falling investment from local authorities who Despite Saltdean’s proximity to the seaside resort England) led a debate on the values of sporting areas particularly hard. The other was the continuing were increasingly minded to invest their resources of Brighton, the area had remained undeveloped heritage alongside the launch as a joint venture expansion of Brighton, its continuing development as in multi-purpose leisure centres. It was designed until the second decade of the 20th century. Until a resort close to London and the increasing desire of with Malavan Media of the Played in Britain series as a single building combining a large café, sun then, the principal occupations were fishing, farming working and retired people to live along the south coast. of publications on sporting heritage.5 Awareness decks and changing areas, and extended with a and hunting with hounds across the gorse-dotted of the cultural significance of lidos, with Saltdean library and community facilities in the 1960s. This downland. It is located within the South Downs, an Into this scenario stepped Charles William Neville included as a case study, was also heightened by the flexibility of use was undoubtedly a significant factor area known as having some of the richest potential for (1881-1960), freshly arrived from work as a real publication (as part of the Played in Britain series) of prehistoric archaeology in Europe. Trial trenches in estate developer in Australia and Canada and as in ensuring Saltdean’s survival as an historic lido. Janet Smith’s Liquid Assets. The lidos and open air the lido site and at the Ocean Hotel have not yielded an adventurer on the South Seas. It did not take Lido landscapes and architecture provided new swimming pools of Britain. There are now several web any archaeological finds.6 There is, however, rich long for this spirited entrepreneur, who early in venues for community and family-based sport and sites devoted to outdoor swimming and lidos, notably: evidence in this area – including from recent work 1914 had with his wife first laid his eyes on the area 7 recreation. For Roger Deakin, author of the acclaimed at Peacehaven – for medieval and Romano-British from his ‘sturdy Hupmobile car’, to visualise the • The Outdoor Swimming Society, who are Waterlog. A Swimmers’ Journey Through Britain, cultivation terraces on the downland slopes, and on the area between Newhaven and Brighton ‘as ideal for promoting and fighting for the right to open air 9 lidos encapsulate ‘a modernising trend towards a higher ground for a rich profusion of burial sites, stock development as a coastal resort’ linked to Brighton. swimming. www.outdoorswimmingsociety.co.uk enclosures, settlements and field boundaries broadly democratic concern for a freely available, healthy, 8 The first development at New Anzac-on-Sea was • Oliver Merrington and Andy Hoine’s site on dating from the Bronze Age to the Roman period. convivial environment, putting pleasure and health stalled due to the compulsory acquisition of the land lidos in the UK, www.lidos.org.uk. This site also firmly at the centre of civic life’.1 Interest in open air There is a comparative lack of evidence for the coastal by the Government for agriculture. The settlement links to the Reviving Lidos Campaign and to lidos swimming and lidos has deepened since the 1990s, area in the post-Roman period, indicating that the was renamed Peacehaven in 1917 in view of the which are being reopened, restored or are open 2 pasturing of animals had by then developed as the loss of ANZAC life at Gallipolli, and development in parallel to a growing interest in sporting history. over the winter months. Farewell My Lido, a report published by The Thirties predominant use for its thin and flint strewn soils: into recommenced after the war. A significant milestone • Sites hosted by other individuals such as Society (now the Twentieth Century Society) in 1991, the 20th century the manure from downland sheep was marked by the opening in October 1922 of the www.prstubbs.btinternet.co.uk/swimming.htm heightened awareness of the significance and threats folded on the fields and cattle based in farmsteads Hotel Luxurious at Peacehaven, Neville enraging • Local campaigns, such as in London to lidos as distinct from swimming pools which had and isolated outfarms helped to boost production of the Daily Mail (since the 1900s a major promoter of (www.londonpoolscampaign.com). been the focus of campaigns by SAVE in 1982 and wheat and barley which provided a staple product of aviation) by inviting over the Dutch aviator Anton the southern English downlands. By the end of the the Victorian Society’s Making a Splash campaign • The Lido History Society, which in 2006 Fokker for England’s first gliding display and thus organised a successful conference on Reviving first millennium the valley or dene which partly gives pre-empting their own sponsored display planned in 2006. Ken Worpole’s Here Comes the Sun (2000a) Lidos with Played in Britain (www.lidos.org.uk). its name to Saltdean, and the trackway (now partly to take place near Lewes.10 Neville had designed raised awareness of the importance of lidos as open Longridge Avenue) leading from the sea onto the the hotel and its gardens in the Domestic Revival air architecture within the context of 20th century The Heritage Lottery Fund has played a prominent downs, served as an administrative boundary dividing style popularised by the Garden City movement at developments in society, landscape and architecture. role in funding the restoration of some lidos two Anglo-Saxon ‘hundreds’ (administrative areas). Hampstead, Letchworth and elsewhere before the For Worpole, also the co-author of the influential that have been the subject of local campaigns As a result of this the area to the west lies in the parish First World War. The grid layout and overall design 1996 government report on People, Parks and Cities, in recent years. Examples include the grade II of Rottingdean, and since 1926 has been administered of Peacehaven, although billed as ‘The Garden City lidos are ‘one of the great innovations of the period in listed Brockwell Lido, Brixton, London, Uxbridge by the Borough of Brighton, including the Oval and of Amazing Growth’, adopted none of the principles architectural history when politics and design (and a Lido in west London, Sandford Parks Lido in the lido. The area to the east lies in East Saltdean, of Ebenezer Howard’s Garden City movement which pronounced sense of the public good) came together’ Cheltenham and Hathersage Lido in Derbyshire. and is now administered by Lewes District Council. made such a strong impact on urban planning in this and where ‘sensuous and spiritual pleasures combine’.3 period: this is why it was so widely criticised at the Introducing Charles Neville time.11 Neville, as a newcomer not sufficiently aware 1 Deakin 1999, 153 2 For example Walvin 1978; Birley 1995; Marcellus 1993; Inglis 6 Samuels 2004, Worrall 2004 and Meaton 2007 9 Neville 1959a, 12 2003 4 See www.hackney.gov.uk/c-londonfields-lido and www. 7 Casper Johnson, pers. comm 10 Neville 1959d, 20 3 See www.opendemocracy.net/ecology-landscape/lidos brockwelllido.com. Accessed 27 March 2008 8 Ruding 2003 11 Gardiner 2010, 235-6 accessed 16 August 2015 5 Cherry and Chitty 2002. See www.playedinbritain.co.uk 4 5 ESHER ± Saltdean Lido

1 Saltdean Barn 2 Coastguard Cottages ESHER Parish Boundary ± Saltdean Lido The City of Brighton and Hove Longridge Avenue

1 Saltdean Barn 1 2 Coastguard Cottages

Parish Boundary

The City of Brighton and Hove Longridge Avenue Legend

County 1 Unitary District LEWES TELSCOMBE TEMPLE TO THE SUN: ESHEESR PHarisEhesR 2 The history & significance of Saltdean Lido ± LSeageSltnddaealtnd Leidaon Lido County Pre 1800 ± Unitary District LEWES TELSCOMBE 1800 – 1914 Parishes 1 Saltdean Barn LEWES Pre 1800 2 1914 – 45 2 Coastguard Cottages 1800 – 1914 Stanmer Park A27 LEWES Post 1945 Parish1 Saltdean Boundary Barn 1914 – 45 2 Coastguard Cottages A27 Stanmer Park A27 LongridgeD Avenuerawn by: Archaeology Team Post 1945 The City of Brighton and Hove Undercliff Walk This map is reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the KINGSTON NEAR LEWES permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her A27 ParishMajesty’s Sta tiBoundaryonary Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised 0 80 160 320 480 640 reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or KINGSTON NEAR LEWES Undercliff Walk 1 civil proceedings. 100019601. 2008. IFORD N Meters 1:5,500 Drawn by: Archaeology Team The City of Brighton and Hove The City of Brighton and Hove This map is reprodLongridgeuced from Ordnance Survey ma teAvenuerial with the IFORD permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationary Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised The City of Brighton and Hove reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or 0 80 160 320 480 640 civil proceedings. 100019601. 2008. RODMELL Meters 1:5,500 Legend

RODMELL County Unitary 1 District PORTSLADE- LEWES TELSCOMBE SHOREHAM- HOVE Parishes BY-SEAPORTSLADE- 2 SHOREHAM- HOVE BY-SEA BY-SEA Telscombe BY-SEA Telscombe BRIGHTON BRIGHTON BLACK ROCK BLACK ROCK Legend

County Unitary ROTTINGDEANROTTINGDEAN Drawn by: Archaeology Team This map is reproducDedi fsrotmr Oicrdtnance Survey material with the SALTDEANSALTDEAN permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her LEWES TELSCOMBE Majesty’s Stationary Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised PEACEHAVEN reproduction infringes CProwan rcoispyhrigeht sand may lead to prosecution or PEACEHAVEN 0 80 160 320 480 640 civil proceedings. 100019601. 2008. 2 Meters 1:5,500 Schematic map showing the location of Saltdean in the area from Peacehaven to Shoreham, and the main periods in its development from the 19th century.

Drawn by: Archaeology Team

This map is reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationary Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised This shows Saltdean as it had developed before the construction of the lido. The reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or 0 80 160 320 480 640 civil proceedings. 100019601. 2008. dotted line shows the ancient Mparisheters boundary1:5,500 which divided Saltdean into two administrations. This mostly follows Longridge Avenue, which developed into Saltdean’s main shopping street from a prehistoric droveway for moving livestock between the coast and the downs. These droves and pathways still provide a strong underpinning infrastructure in the chalk downlands of southern England. The pathway through The Oval follows another ancient routeway which extends into the downs, and passes Saltdean Barn (below). The Coastguard Cottages (2) were swept away when Neville commenced development of Saltdean, and the lido was built within the triangle of land bordered in green to its west. From Ordnance Survey 4th edition map, c. 1936.

This publicity image shows the new resort as envisaged from the east, with the various amenities offered by the area in the background – the Tudor House Hotel in Rottingdean, Rodean School and of course Brighton including its pier and racecourse. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

Saltdean Barn, built in the early 1800s as an outfarm to serve one of the farms around the vale – a barn to store and thresh corn with an attached cattle yard. This was taken into The Oval in the late 1930s and then converted into stables for holidaymakers, including those staying in the Ocean Hotel. The right-hand range was built in about 2000. Photo © Photo © Saltdean Lido Archive

6 7 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

of these developments, cited his own experience in The opprobrium heaped upon Peacehaven may in real estate development in Canada, the United States part explain the very different approach taken for The developer and Australia in defence of the layout adopted for the remainder of Neville’s residential and tourist Charles William Neville (1881-1960), was born in Peacehaven. 12 His inexperience of planning in Britain developments at Saltdean and Rottingdean, which had Darlington. He moved at an early age to Canada, was also revealed by his horror at learning late in the already been surveyed and laid out in 1924. 15 Saltdean where as a young man he had started a newspaper process that local authorities – in contrast to those was promoted as ‘The New-World Village by the Sea before working as a real estate developer in countries where he had worked – did not provide the adjoining the Old-World Village of Rottingdean’. Australia and then – after a spell sailing on infrastructure for development on the back of the 16Nearly a thousand plots at Saltdean had been sold the South Seas – back to Canada. He applied taxation due from the increased population. 13 He must by spring 1925, under the guidance of Frank Pegler, what he had learned there to the grid system of clearly, however, been aware of Peacehaven’s place in who had worked on Peacehaven and later went on planning that characterised his first development the high-profile debate on the quality of uncontrolled to work as a surveyor with the Borough of Brighton. at Peacehaven, which when initially set out in roadside and coastal development and the need to 17 It was laid out and focused on the central park in 1914 was called New Anzac-on-Sea. This was one secure from development land most highly valued The Oval to ‘conform with the beautiful sweep of the of a series of developments that since the early for its beauty and amenities. Hence the increased Downs on either side of the Saltdean Valley’. It was 19th century had made the south coast resorts a public support in this period for bodies such as the already drawing favourable comment – Clunn’s 1927 significant contributor to Britain’s housing stock. National Trust and the Council for the Protection of overview of British seaside resorts, while not sparing For Neville, it marked the first phase in a string of Rural England, and the first tentative steps at national Peacehaven from criticism, stated ‘Provided that it developments that extended through Saltdean and and local planning ushered in by the 1932 Town and continues to be developed on artistic lines, it may Rottingdean to the eastern border of Brighton. Country Planning Act, the 1935 Restriction of Ribbon well become a favourite holiday resort and suburb of 18 Although some of his development attracted Development Act and the 1938 Green Belt Act. Brighton.’ Charles Neville in about 1920, when the controversy, it is clear he was an entrepreneur who development at Peacehaven was underway. The Estate Company played on the fact that the wished to emulate a local authority’s leadership in Photo © Gary Neville Saltdean area offered the only potential for building the construction of tourist attractions and open air The resort takes shape land with a view of the sea close to Brighton – ‘the swimming pools as new places in the vanguard of premier seaside resort of the world’, with fast social change. None of Neville’s correspondence states how and why he approached the design of Saltdean, Saltdean was envisaged as both a residential and tourist resort, and developed from Neville’s original connections via Southern Railways to London Victoria. its iconic lido and the Ocean Hotel in the way that he did, but it is clear he desired to be associated with a rich 19 vision of ‘a glorious city, or a series of cities, from which Publicity brochures provide insights into the early diversity of architectural styles, including modern buildings, which reflected his international spirit. Neville planning for the resort, with ‘every conceivable first- certainly deserves a fresh appraisal – his roles as landlord, developer and visionary, together with the architect class attraction’ that one might expect for the times, ‘Saltdean is richly endowed by nature with all Dick Jones, encompassed a remarkably broad variety of architectural styles, both historicist and modern. including an aerodrome and gliding club and a country the essential characteristics required to make Charles and Dorothy Neville remained fond of his seaside developments and are buried at Margaret’s Church, club in the Spanish Colonial Style with seawater Rottingdean. an ideal seaside resort. Directly overlooking baths intended to be ‘the most magnificent structure the rolling waters of the channel, it lies in a of its kind in the British Isles’. The picturesque wonderful valley enfolded in the majestic South village of Rottingdean, where Neville lived, was in Downs…. The result is gloriously keen and turn promoted for its historic character and as the bracing air, instinct with the salt tang of the birthplace of Rudyard Kipling, Edward Burne-Jones sea and highly recommended by medical men and Admiral Jellicoe of Dreadnought and Jutland for its health giving and restorative properties’ fame. Neville attracted the attention of the Architects’ – Promotional brochure 1927 Journal for his restoration of historic buildings and the reuse of materials in the construction of the Tudor the bread winners will take electric train, or perhaps House Hotel in Rottingdean, promoted as ‘the most 20 a quicker mode of transit, to the great City, returning beautiful old world hotel in England’ (see p.48). each night to a Downland home’. Neville was clearly The Saltdean Estate Company was formed to mindful of the very different opportunities presented promote Saltdean and its properties as ‘Britain’s by this landscape for development and amenity use, safest investment’ in 1926. In the following year the and the continuing popularity and growth of Brighton Borough of Brighton expanded to take in the area up as a seaside resort as well as a place for retirement and to the ancient droveway, now Longridge Avenue.21 commuting to London. He had excluded downland The pace of development, despite slowing down in acquired at Telscombe Tye from the start, although he the face of the depression between 1928 and 1933, had entertained notions of using the former Admiralty air station at Telscombe Cliffs as an attraction to lure 15 d’Enno 1985, 79 Charles Neville with his wife Dorothy in Florida where they lived from 1947 to 1956 before finally buyers in search of a quick commute to London or 16 The Daily Chronicle, 28 July 1925 hop across the Channel.14 17 d’Enno 1985, 79-80; Neville 1959d, 22 settling in the Dominican Republic. Photo © Gary Neville 18 Clunn 1927, 97 12 Neville 1959a, 13; 1959c, 15-16 19 From the Saltdean Lido Archive 13 Neville 1959c, 16 20 Neville 1959e, 21-22 14 d’Enno 1985, 65-6 21 d’Enno 1985, 86 8 9 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

the other. 23 It also thrived on account of its proximity to London, offering activities and amusements for a diversity of clients from the ‘bright young things’ of the era to the criminal gangs popularised in Graham Greene’s Brighton Rock (published in 1937). Its local airport, at Shoreham, which had taken part in the ‘Circuit of Europe’ air race in 1911, and was developed as a modern aerodrome with its own terminal building in 1936. It took visitors for ‘joy rides’ and ran regular flights to other parts of the British Isles and France.24 After correspondence on the need to secure land from development, against the background of finalising the South Downs Preservation Bill,25 agreement was finally reached in February 1935 between the Saltdean Estate Company and Brighton Borough on how to approach the planning for areas of (in the words of one of the company’s advertisements) ‘different character and value’. 26 In this, Neville was strongly supported by Brighton’s mayor Sir Herbert Carden, This advertisement for Saltdean shows the resort who was a key figure in saving the downland and from the south. The Undercliff Walk is shown, as also Stanmer Park from development. 27 This, despite is the tunnel connecting the promenade to The continuing problems with the road surfaces, provided Oval which passes under the new road. Advertising the masterplan for the remarkably varied range of image from Saltdean Estate Company resort styles that came to characterise the development brochure, 1938. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. at Saltdean (see pages 13 and 47). Early in 1935, the Brighton Gazette had encouragingly predicted that This artwork was commissioned by the Estate Company, and used to promote ‘Modern’ Saltdean as ‘Saltdean promises to become a centre of aquatic sport a ‘high class’ resort by the sea. The houses are mostly built in Domestic Revival and Mock Tudor styles was further encouraged by the Borough’s desire to in natural surroundings’. In July the tunnel enabling broadly similar to Tudor Close, Rottingdean, and the grand Hotel Peacehaven (since demolished), establish a proper plan which included the widening safe access from the beach and the Undercliff Walk although the Garden City planning designed around The Oval guided the overall design of of the coast road in 1928, the zoning of areas for to The Oval’s tennis courts and gardens was opened. Saltdean. This image has been used with kind permission of ‘Brighton Stuff’, Western Road, Hove. development, the conservation of downland above the Construction of the tunnel entailed demolition of the 300-foot contour line (the Borough being one of the popular Smugglers’ Haunt café, opened in 1925, and most progressive public authorities in protecting land its replacement by a new (and still surviving) café from development in this way), and the construction worked in the modern style which was built in 1937. 28 of coastal defences with a promenade (the Undercliff Walk) linking Black Rock in Brighton to Rottingdean The publicity material, and the evidence of the and Saltdean. buildings themselves, shows that Saltdean was distinguished by the variety of its housing stock. Brighton, of course, has a central position in the Bungalows of the type erected at Peacehaven were development of sea bathing and seaside resorts, not concentrated on the Beach Estate and then the just in Britain but internationally as ‘the Premier Mount Estate on the east side of Saltdean Vale, which Seaside Resort of the British Empire and the despite concerns raised by the Saltdean Residents’ Metropolis of the South Coast’, then comprising and Property Owners’ Association29 continued to be about 200,000 people. 22 By the late 19th century its built into the latter half of the 1930s. However, these piers and other recreational facilities catered for mass were designed within a framework of roads and tourism, providing a contrast of sorts with its distinct residential areas of terraces and squares which were 23 Brodie and Winter 2007, 135-150 occasionally (as at Kemp Town) open to the seaward 24 Hawkins and Lake, 2005; Brighton Herald, 31 July 1937 view. These matched developments nationally, as 25 East Sussex Record Office C/C/2/2/5/13 (Saltdean Estate Company and C W Neville) assembly rooms and libraries became replaced in 26 d’Enno 1985, 93 importance by the exclusive golf club and yacht club 27 His intention to save Stanmer is for example quoted in the 9 on the one hand and the entertainment complexes of April 1938 edition of the Brighton and Hove Herald mass tourism – piers, fairgrounds and kursaals – on 28 d’Enno 1985, 83-4 This illustration from an advertisement for investors shows plans for Saltdean at an early (and 29 This was formed in 1934. It’s key aims were to ensure high- uncompleted) stage, with paths radiating out from The Oval and a large hotel – on the site of quality development and the provision of better amenities and infrastructure for the area and to this end to include East the present lido – with seaviews sited behind the coast road. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. 22 Clunn 1927, 97 Saltdean within Brighton (d’Enno 1985, 92−3, 111−2) 10 11 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido plots that owed far more to the principles of Garden City planning than Peacehaven. They also offered a wide range of price-ranges and architectural styles. These included Tudor-style houses following the precedent set at Rottingdean and the styles so widely adopted for suburban housing in the 1920s and 1930s. They also included new types of houses reflecting more international influences, notably villas and apartments in the ‘Hollywood Spanish’ style, with rendered walls and green tile roofs, and Modernist houses. These included the white and flat-roofed houses by the Connell, Ward and Lucas partnership, already renowned as disciples of the Swiss Modernist architect Le Corbusier. These drew praise from the Architects Journal (7 February 1935) for their ‘aesthetic improvement on the typical South Coast development’.30

An early advertisement for Saltdean, showing This advertising image, from the Saltdean Estate Company resort brochure dated 1938, shows the wide Dr Brighton pointing towards the tennis courts range of properties to suit different budgets - bungalows in Domestic Revival style to the right, and the where the lido was later built. Spanish Revival and Moderne flats designed by Jones at Curzon House and Chichester Close to the left. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. The lido and the Ocean Hotel 30 These can be found at Wicklands Avenue, Withyam Avenue, Founthill Road and Arundel Drive West (d’Enno 1985, 99-100) It is clear from early marketing material produced by

A de Haviland flying over Saltdean after the lido was built, from a cigarette card, showing the Oval and An illustration from the same resort brochure showing the leisure and sporting facilities available at the radiating road network. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. Saltdean. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

12 13 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

the Saltdean Estate Company that Neville was keen successful and affordable store; he had also to promote Saltdean as a fashionable holiday resort, designed 19 houses (all in historic styles) in as well as a seaside suburb in which home buyers Chelsea’s Paradise Walk. 33 The first evidence could invest. But although already established as a for Jones’s involvement with Neville is the gentrified destination by the mid-1930s, the fledgling design for extensions to the Tudor House Hotel resort was still in need of a star attraction to elevate in 1935−36, Jones clearly showing his ability to and define its status in the competitive age of the work in a historicist as well as a modern style. seaside holiday. So in 1936−37 Neville commissioned He was employed by the estate to design the Richard Jones to design two iconic buildings – the Spanish-style apartments at Chichester Close lido and the Ocean Hotel. They were bothselected in 1937, and the modernist apartment blocks at as case studies in the August 1938 editions of The Teynham House and Curzon House in Saltdean Architect and Building News and The Builder, the lido (on the site of the coastguard cottages) and St as an example of its type ‘admirably adapted for this Margaret’s on the seafront in Rottingdean, which country’ (see Sources). The lido was opened in May all opened in 1938. 34 and the hotel in July 1938. The Queen’s brother (the Earl of Glamis) attended the hotel’s grand opening The Corporation’s Estates and Town Planning (both he and Neville were directors of the joint Committee was notified of Saltdean’s ‘Proposed enterprise). Richard Jones’ daughter, Suzanne Keep, bathing pool and café’ on 4 March 1937 and granted remembers that opening night: consent pursuant to section 2 of the Restriction of Development Act of 1935. 35 The Borough Surveyor ‘I was aged 6. My sister and I were just children. reported to the Corporation’s Improvement I remember the fish tanks set into the wall, and Committee (on 15 March) that he had received an the seahorse motif on the floor. Best of all was application from the Saltdean Estate Company. Two the spiral staircase. My sister and I had great days earlier the Saltdean Residents’ and Property fun sliding down its brass bannisters, much to Owners’ Association had notified the council of the my father’s annoyance!’ estate’s intention to develop a ‘sand lido with facilities for sun bathing and water bathing’.36 (Interview with Deryck Chester, May 2016) The new lido signalled Neville’s intention to emulate The engineers for both the hotel and the lido local authorities’ leadership in the construction of were J. L. Kier and Company, who were well- open air swimming pools. A swimming pool also known by this period for their ability to work formed the focal point of the Ocean Hotel, and was in reinforced concrete for ground-breaking sited with views of the lido and Saltdean Vale. It is Modernist buildings. They had undertaken the also clear that the Saltdean Estate wished to use these construction for the pioneering High Point 1 in two iconic buildings in order to put Saltdean on the Highgate, London, built to the designs of Bertold map as a coastal resort. They were clearly envisaged Lubetkin and Tecton in 1933−35. It is unclear as part of a development with a wide range of modern what brought Richard W. H. Jones (1900−65) and historicist designs. The lido’s architect, R.W.H. 31 from his London-based practice to Saltdean, Jones, had worked in 1933-35 on the conversion and other than – judging by his output − a desire to extension into a hotel of Tudor-style houses at Tudor work from a broad palette of architectural styles Close in Rottingdean, which had drawn praise in the which Neville was clearly minded to employ at Architects’ Journal.37 Saltdean and Rottingdean. Given the criticism which Peacehaven had attracted, Neville clearly Saltdean Lido also marked the last link in a chain desired to be associated with a richer diversity of architectural styles, including modern 33 d’Enno 1985, 103; for Woolworths see Gardiner 2010, 532-534 34 d’Enno 1985, 101. For more on Jones see the text box with buildings which reflected his international spirit his photograph. The author of this paper interviewed Jones’s and familiarity with American architecture in daughter, Suzanne Keep, in July 2016. She remembers sliding particular.32 Jones had worked between 1926 down the banisters at the Ocean Hotel, but not the lido! and 1928 as chief assistant to the architects’ Unfortunately, his papers and drawings were destroyed, and the RIBA does not have any obituary or other notes on an elusive but department and construction superintendent clearly significant architect of this time at the northern division of F. W. Woolworth, at 35 East Sussex Record Office DB/B/30/04 (Minutes of an early stage in its development as a highly the Estates and Town Planning Committee, November 1935-November 1937, item 188 dated 04/03/1937) An Estate Company publicity brochure for the lido. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. 36 East Sussex Record Office DB/B/18/26 (Improvement 31 It was based at Orange Street in Haymarket Committee November 1936-November 1937, item 301 dated 32 This is based on correspondence between the author of this 15/03/1937) report and Gary Neville, Charles Neville’s grandson, in June 2016 37 Neville had also converted a barn opposite the church

14 15 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

The architect After serving for a short time with the Royal Flying Corps, Richard William Herbert Jones (1900−65) left London’s Bartlett School of Architecture as a fully-qualified architect in 1923. After qualifying he joined F.W. Woolworth and Company’s Head Office in Liverpool, covering the Northern District as Chief Assistant Architect and Construction Superintendent. It is perhaps at Woolworths that Jones first encountered the luncheon counters and soda fountains which would inspire the layout of Saltdean Lido’s modern restaurant. With his wife, Mary, whom he married in 1928, he then moved to London to join his architect uncle Herbert Haase in practice. Hard times followed the collapse of his uncle’s practice in 1932, when, being a keen artist, Jones had a brief foray as a newspaper cartoonist and then joined the Metropolitan Police Special Constabulary (rising to the rank of Sub-Inspector by his retirement in 1960).

Jones’ career as an architect took off when he set up his own practice Dick Jones – a keen horseman – at 46 Grosvenor Gardens in London’s Belgravia in 1934 where he relaxing with his wife on the family employed ten staff. As well as his work for Charles Neville, Jones farm at Bygrave after the war, and practised in London, Hertfordshire, Sussex and the Isle of Wight, walking along the south coast in as well as the Sunny Vale holiday camp at Rhyll in North Wales. the 1930s. Photos © Suzanne Keep. Jones was colour-blind and called upon the service of his wife, Mary, when it came to choosing the soft furnishings of his more elaborate The lido from the south west in about 1941, showing vehicles used for training by the the National Fire commissions. After a promising and prolific output at Saltdean designing homes, holiday apartments, The Ocean Service College as well as the architecturally diverse houses completed by late 1939 and the Ocean Hotel and, not least, Saltdean Lido, he chose to enlist and close down his practice at the outbreak of the Second World War to play his part. His duties with the Royal Engineers included the construction of hospitals and airfields Hotel. Photo © The Fire Service College. in Nigeria and Borough Surveyor to devastated Hamburg. After the war he designed houses and schools for the Ministry of Works and then the employees of the Handley Page aircraft factory at Bricket Wood in Hertfordshire.

He ended his career as an architect and surveyor for the Finchley Town and Country Planning Department. Sadly, the firm’s records were destroyed and there is no recorded obituary at the Royal Institute of British Architects to shed further light on an architect who, as well as being responsible for the design of two of the most celebrated examples of modern architecture in Britain, played a major role in the creation of Saltdean as a new and architecturally- diverse place.

.

This advertising image for Christmas and New Year at the Ocean Hotel, with its streamlined The Ocean Hotel was terraced into the side of the vale, with the main aeroplanes, reveals approach from the upper side into a crescent-shaped main block which the aspirations to make had a restaurant and terraces overlooking the pool and the vale, flanked by Saltdean into a modern Jones in wartime uniform. an array of south-facing bedroom blocks. Advertising image from Saltdean resort. From the Saltdean Photo © Suzanne Keep Estate Company resort brochure, 1938. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. Lido Archive.

16 17 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Aerial view of Saltdean taken in July 1949, showing the resort as it developed up to the Second World War with its mixture of modern and Tudor-style houses sited around The Oval. From The Aerofilms Collection, Historic England EAW024797.

This aerial view taken in July 1949 shows Saltdean as it had developed up to the Second World War with its mixture of modern and Tudor-style houses. The inset shows the lido, with its boating pool to the right, and its relationship to Marine Drive under which a tunnel connected pedestrians to the sea and the 1930s café overlooking the beach. From The Aerofilms Collection, Historic England EAW024797.

18 19 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

presented for publication in the July/August edition Early critics and visitors alike were impressed of The Downland Post, 1959 (Vol. 1, No. 3). with the lido’s bold modern design and facilities. Its restaurant rotunda (often compared to A summer sun, the waves white-frilled the bow of an ocean liner), and its gull wing Like lace on ladies’ petticoats. And pebbles hot changing rooms, would have afforded visitors to touch the skin a unique experience. Perhaps the best way to Wet sand and rocks and children’s boats, summarise its original appeal is through the Tall watching cliffs, their feet in surf, recollection of some of its early visitors, as And over all the Downland turf. related to Deryck Chester in various interviews. And then across the road the place Bettie White, aged 10 at the time and a fan of Where man out-painted Nature’s face, Hollywood stars, remembers visiting the lido Where white-hot plaster, Vita glass; with her sister Nancy for its second opening Stood primly up from cultured grass. season, 15 May 1939. Bettie recalls: Where the pool’s un-natural hue ‘I thought it was extremely glamorous. Falsely mirrored Heaven’s blue. The whole thing was so new, and so clean Now deserted – flaking paint – and bright. It was like a movie set … There Stagnant water – stinking weed – was quite a lot of glass and everything The Downland turf has crept inside shone. Prior to going to the lido we had And Downland flowers have spread their seed. enjoyed our holidays on the beach at Only the wild birds come and go, A tinted Wardells postcard from 1939, showing the Ocean Hotel and the Littlehampton. But this was quite different You’d think the place was dead – But No, development completed up to that date. Image from the Saltdean Lido Archive. …The whole experience was heaven.’ Out of apparent Death has grown Another house not made of stone, Her sister Nancy, also a movie fan, remembers But walled with prayer and roofed with praise, 39 of newly-opened open air pools linked by the new Saltdean lido opened in May 1938. The admission those early years: Each soul co-joined in unseen ways. Undercliff Walk development. The last stretch of fee was sixpence – about £3.32 in today’s money –and Not confined by earthly plan ‘We went there for the excitement when it the walk to open, in July 1935, connected Saltdean fashionable swimming costumes could be hired from God moves out from man to man. to Rottingdean and its newly-opened lido through a the lido’s ‘Cosmeteria’. Local folk law says that Olympic emerged from its winter hibernation – it tunnel under the coastal road. The section to Black swimmer and actor, Johnny Weissmuller, attended its was simply gorgeous. I remember lots of Nonconformist communities had commonly used Rock in Brighton was the first to be completed, by 1934, opening ceremony (but supportive evidence is yet to swimming, and lots of people. It seemed buildings in this fashion, prior to the process of but its popular (now demolished) lido did not open be found). Although its first summer season got off to me very glamorous. They even had building their own church. 41 This is the only known until the following year. 38 These were fed by seawater, to a wet start, holidaymakers and residents flocked swimming costumes for hire. I already instance, however, of a swimming pool used for such a unlike the heated freshwater of Saltdean Lido. to experience its modern amenities which included: had a costume but I rather fancied one purpose. It anticipated a growing sense of community warmed and purified water – delivered by its cascade from the lido – they were a lovely aqua and a burgeoning youth movement in the 1950s which fountain – its three-tiered diving board, purpose-built blue, nicely shaped and tailored. We was seeking accommodation in Saltdean: the scale The lido’s history beach – with ‘real seashore sand’ – and its sunbathing spent every day of the 8 week summer of the 1960s extension to the lido, as we shall see, lawns. Refreshments were made available either from holiday there.’ provides testament to its importance. The lido received national critical acclaim in the August its poolside kiosk or, via a spiral staircase, at the first The Ocean Hotel continued in use for the college 1938 edition of The Architect and Building News which floor restaurant and tea terrace – where luncheon for some time but the building eventually became applauded its ‘simple and convenient aeroplane type would be served. There was also a soda fountain. College, for training and research in combating air plan’, and its reinforced concrete construction method raid fires.40 derelict. In 1952, it was bought by Billy Butlin who to create ‘lightness of appearance’. It also featured In an international context, the lido’s first season was later claimed it had been the bargain of his life. The prominently in the Saltdean Estate’s own publicity marked either side by the annexation of Austria in During the war, although the pool was closed to the new Butlin’s resort, employing 200 staff, opened in 42 between late 1937 and 1939: spring and then the gathering crisis over the Czech general public, an alternative role was found for its May 1953 in time for the Queen’s coronation. The Sudetanland. changing rooms. Sister McLaughlin, from Kemptown, fact that Billy Butlin continued to stay in the hotel’s ‘In its luxurious equipment and surroundings, it petitioned the council to have the lido sanctified. Its penthouse suite serves as an indication of the esteem is without rival in Southern England. Magnificent Saltdean Lido closed in 1940 before the end of its male changing rooms were used for church services in which Saltdean was held as a resort. The Saltdean swimming pool, 140’ x 66’ with ample space for 500 third summer season, as anti-invasion defences were and the female changing rooms became a Sunday Estate Company had gone into voluntary liquidation: bathers. The blue coloured tiled bottom and sides being erected along the southern coast. The newly- School. Saltdean Lido ‘s wartime and post-war use their inability to sufficiently maintain the Oval give a beautifully coloured affect to the water, which opened fire station at Rottingdean used the lido as a as a church serves to underline the significance that park and bring the lido back into life was further is heated when required. Continuous treatment by water tank, and used a practice tower erected in the such a focal building acquired in the context of a undermined by the fact that income was lower due latest system of filtration and purification ... meals Oval. The Ocean Hotel was requisitioned for wartime growing settlement. An anonymous poem titled ‘The to pre-war valuations. Neville considered the lido ‘as can be obtained in the café, the sun room, or on the use, from October 1941 as the National Fire Service Lido, Saltdean’ written in 1948, when the lido was used tea terraces.’ for Sunday services by Presbyterian worshippers, was 41 See for example Lake, Cox and Berry 2000, especially 39 It was illustrated in the Brighton and Hove Herald on 11 June Chapter 4 Building Zion 38 d’Enno 1985, 93-8; Smith 2003,176 1938 40 d’Enno 1985, 115-116 42 d’Enno 1985, 128-30

20 21 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

The boating pool in 1938- The National Fire Service College at Saltdean 9, note the post-and- panel fencing. From the The Ocean Hotel in Saltdean – occupied since December 1939 by the Auxiliary Territorial Service (later the Saltdean Lido Archive. Women’s Royal Army Corps) - was requisitioned in order to house the National Fire Service College, after its formation on the 18th of August 1941. Herbert Morrison, the Home Secretary, opened the College on the 10th of October. The main purpose of the National Fire Service College, consequent to the experience of the fire services during the Blitz, was to bring local fire services together into a national organisation for command leadership training and the training of instructors who then served at the various Regional and Area Training Schools. During the war the lido was used for practical training, especially for pump training, in combination with a training tower erected in the Oval. Although control of the nation’s fire services reverted back to local authorities after the NFS was disbanded in 1948, the Home Office continued to fund the Fire Service College which is now based at Moreton-in-the-Marsh in the Cotswolds.

a War casualty’, 43 and as a financial burden which Oval and its adjacent roads was not drawn up until would be better administered – along with the Oval – the 20th of April 1961. Other suggestions for its reuse by Brighton Corporation. included one (in August 1962) for development as a ‘marineland’ with performing porpoises and other The derelict state of the lido – which for most of the sealife. In 1959 a proposal for complete redevelopment 1940s had served as a Sunday School and place of of the lido by Billy Butlin was rejected by Brighton’s 44 worship – became one of several subjects of concern Planning Committee.48 for Saltdean’s Residents Association, along with the long-standing problems of ensuring adequate In 1958, in the midst of the enquiry into reopening roads, sewerage and amenities. In October 1946 the lido and the Oval, a group of local youths had Brighton Borough Council had opened negotiations written a letter to The Minister of Housing and Local for the purchase of the Oval park and the lido, now Government, to exert pressure on the authorities. The mortgaged to the Mutual Building Society by the letter was signed by 60 Saltdean teenagers: ‘We would Saltdean Estate Company who continued other work ask for more sporting facilities, and would suggest if on the development of Saltdean.45 An inventory was it were impossible to develop the Lido as a swimming compiled in January 1947, but the agents for the estate pool, it would make an ideal community centre for all and the council hit an impasse over the valuation of sections of the population. At present there are little the property and who should pay for making good or no facilities for us either to entertain ourselves or the roads and other infrastructure. The impressions be entertained’.49 The scale of the northern extension from reading Neville’s own accounts, written for evidences the growing sense of Saltdean as a Pump training in progress at the lido. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. The Downland Review in 1959, is of a worsening community, and of its youth, in the post-war period. relationship with the post-war local authorities.46 The council rejected a compulsory purchase order on the The lido was finally reopened on the 4th of July 1964, grounds of cost in May 1955, and negotiations clearly at a cost (reported to the council in October 1963) 50 hit a low point after Brighton Corporation, supported of £116, 000. The extension – housing community by the Residents’ Association, had turned down an rooms, a youth club and a library to the north – opened application by Butlins to redevelop the site on account a significant new chapter in the lido’s development, of it being ‘out of character with the neighbourhood’. placing at it at the core of a strengthening sense 47 A final agreement for sale (£20,000) of the lido, the of community that had gathered pace since the foundation of Saltdean’s Community Association in 43 Neville 1959e, 20 the 1930s. Saltdean had in the meantime continued 44 d’Enno 1985, 132-3 to grow, with new churches and a school opened in 45 This paragraph unless sourced to d’Enno is based on papers September 1962 and a growing demand for facilities at East Sussex Record Office DB/A/1/1242 which contains 51 Herbert Morrison visits Saltdean Lido, on its correspondence on this issue dating from 1946 for its burgeoning youth. official opening day. Note the damage 46 Neville 1959e, 24; Neville cited the the ruination and then compulsory purchase of Neville’s home at The Grange in 48 d’Enno 1985, 139 already done to the paving slabs, an Rottingdean, loaned as a home for offices blinded in the war early 49 d’Enno 1985, 138 indication that most if not all of the slabs in 1940 50 This paragraph unless sourced to d’Enno is based on papers 47 d’Enno 1985, 139. See also ‘Saltdean Divided By Lido Ruling; at East Sussex Record Office DB/A/1/1242 which contains around the pool were replaced in the A group assembled around the diving board. Residents’ Association Likely To Fight On, The Times 19 August correspondence on this issue dating from 1946 1960s. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. 1958, 5 51 d’Enno 1985, 133-142

22 23 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

South elevation 1997, although the concourse was greatly reduced in 1937. 52 These record that the proposed development size in the 1960s. The main entrance was then moved was given consent by Brighton Corporation on to adjoin the end of the eastern wing, providing access the 25 of March under the Restriction of Ribbon directly into the lido, and the former concourse was Development Act of 1935 and the Building Byelaws further subdivided to enable partial use of the north and Town and Country Planning (General Interim wing as a surgery. Development) Order of 1933. These differ in minor details from plans redrawn in April and May 1937 and 1937-38 signed off by Brighton Town Council quoting the same The main functional elements of the original lido acts on the 9 of November 1937 – well after building 53 will now be described, with reference to Jones’s plans work had commenced. The main difference is in the and the article of August 1938 in The Architect and reduction of two entrances to a single entrance foyer, BuildingNorth News elevation. Although there is no more detailed the creation of a larger café kitchen and the northward correspondence on the application or how Jones shifting of the lido away from the tunnel entrance. and the Estate Company had chosen the design, its Side elevation Front elevation evolution can be detected from the surviving plans 52 East Sussex Record Office DB/D/136/853. Original plans dated 9/3/1937 The diving board as originally designed at Saltdean, simplified from signed by Jones, the first of which are dated 9 March Outlets Isometric view 53 It was illustrated under construction in the 11 July, 1938 the drawings made in Jones’s office in April 1937. Cantilevering edition of the Brighton and Hove Herald Feet in reinforced concrete and metal enabled the construction of 0 10 20 0 3 6

diving boards. Considerable attention could be accorded to the Metres design of spectacular diving boards, such as the very rare (now listed grade II) survival at the 1935 pool at Purley Way, Croydon.

Under council stewardship, the lido enjoyed its longest vulnerable to becoming so’. Born from the successful period of success as a tourist destination and valued SSL campaign, The Saltdean Lido Community Interest library and community rooms. Along with the Ocean Company (SLCIC) was set up in August 2012 in order Hotel, it attracted visitors to Saltdean from all over the to secure the lease of the site for the community, and UK. The library and community rooms continued in to ensure the site is fully restored and safeguarded by use as the lido began to deteriorate in condition as a a sustainable economic plan. Section south to north Red line is the water inlet and green line is the outlet pipe, for result of declining investment from the local authority. more details of how the lido worked see p. 39. It was listed as a ‘building of special architectural and In December 2013, with the mission statement to historic interest’ in 1987. safeguard and restore Saltdean Lido for the benefit of the city and future generations, the SLCIC won the In 1994 the lido closed due to mounting maintenance BHCC tender process to take on the lido’s new 60- costs. During its closure the council developed a year lease. The restoration project has been split into plan for the site, hoping that private investment two phases. Phase 1 focusses on the restoration of the would secure its future. In 1996 a 120-year-lease was external facilities which includes the swimming pool South elevation granted to a business consortium, which made some and new plant room. These works have been jointly improvements. However, the lease was subsequently funded by the Coastal Community Fund, Social South elevation passed to a property developer who, at a public Investment Bank and the Peoples’ Millions. Phase meeting in March 2010, announced plans to fill in the 2 focuses on the restoration of the lido’s reinforced pool with concrete and build 100 apartments on the concrete building. SLCIC has already been awarded site. a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund for the development phase of these works. The restoration is In response to the threat of development, angry led by the architects Conran and Partners, appointed residents set up the Save Saltdean Lido campaign in March 2014, who refurbished another significant (SSL). Following extensive lobbying of the council, Modernist building in the form of Embassy Court on support from local residents and a media campaign Brighton’s seafront. North elevation the lido was upgraded in March 2011 to grade II* by English Heritage, to mark its exceptional importance 1.2 HOW THE LIDO DEVELOPED as an example of a well-preserved lido and Modernist North elevation building. It was placed on the English Heritage ‘at This section describes the site in more detail, including the two main periods of construction in 1937-38 and risk’ register in October 2011, this being established Outlets then its extension to the north and west with a library to ‘identify historic assets that are at risk of being Feet lost through neglect, decay or development, or are and community centre in 1963-64 and 1965-70. The The elevations and section of the lido, simplified from the drawings made in Jones’s office0 in April10 1937.20 0 3 6 main access remained in its original position until Outlets Metres Feet 24 25 0 10 20 0 3 6

Metres

Section south to north

Section south to north TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Ground Floor Plan Store Staff Room Room

Service Entrance to Staff Area Lift & Kitchen Area Plant Room Library Toilet 1937 - 8 Switch Boiler Flue Room Main Entrance 1963 - 4 The light lines within the changing areas indicate Concourse Work Room rails, cubicles and shelves. WC 1967 - 70 Hall Hall WC Staff Stack Foyer Room & Room Hall Lobby Kitchen Female Male Changing WC Clothes Clothes Changing Store Store Towel Towel Store Store Staff Clinic Room

Service Entrance to Staff Area Changing Changing WC Cubicles Kiosk Counter Cubicles & Kitchen Area Plant Room

Toilets Toilets WC Toilet Meeting Room Manager’s Flue Office

Inlet

Steps to Sun Terrace Main Entrance Fountain Service Area Clothes Issue Counter Ticket Scum Office Channel Female Male Changing Clothes Clothes Changing Store Store New New Lockers Lockers

Balance Tank

Changing Changing Outlet Outlet Cubicles Cubicles Kiosk Counter

Diving Stage Toilets Toilets Concrete Paving Slabs Concrete Paving Slabs WC WC

WC WC

Plan as depicted 27.4.1937

First Floor Plan Steps to Steps to Sun Terrace Sun Terrace

Kitchen Lift Fountain

Toilets Toilets Service Counter

Soda Fountain

Flue Scum Channel

Restaurant Feet

0 10 20 3 6

Metres

Steps to Steps to Diving Stage Pool Area Pool Area

Chair store Chair store

Tank Room Upper Floor (Roof)/ The lido as it had developed up to 1970, showing Flue The plan of the 1930s lido, Area the two phases of 1960s work including the Solarium Plan below Canopy simplified from the drawings made blocking of 1930s windows and doors, the latter in Jones’s office in April 1937. Down being part of a fundamental change in the way that visitors entered and used the lido.

26 27 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

The lido was built within a broadly triangular site, windows were supplied by the Crittall Manufacturing provided access to the library and a panelled first- linked to the lido via a new service corridor, created bounded to the east and west by roads and to the Company, a major manufacturer of metal windows floor lobby with doors to cloakrooms and lavatories, through the reorganisation of the plant room and south by the main coastal road with the tunnel to the with their factory and model settlement at Braintree community and committee rooms in the northern with access on the east side to a lido staff room, staff Undercliff Walk. At the top (north) end of the triangle in Essex. The Educational Supply Company supplied extension (as finally amended from one large room lavatories and managers’ office which now occupied was a boating pool. The site was surrounded by timber the wooden folding doors to the restaurant. It had shown on the November 1962 plans 56) and down steps part of the covered way. An additional small extension panel fencing set into concrete posts. The main developed as a leading supplier of school books, into the restaurant area which now doubled up as a projecting to the west housed the service entrance building looks south to face and embrace the main stacking tables and folding classroom doors, and from community hall. The ground-floor stairhall was also and staff room/kitchen for the library; stairs lit by pool. Jones designed a crescent-shaped building 1917 the company also supplied its ‘Esavian’ folding a porthole window provided access to the new first- 54 56 Plans showing one large meeting room spanning the full with changing rooms and first-floor tea terraces for doors for military aircraft hangars. The photographs width of the north block and another subdivided into a small floor kitchen with a counter facing the servery for the sun bathing flanking a projecting foyer and first-floor in the Architectural Review show tile floors to the first- activity room, office and cloakrooms were confusingly stamped restaurant. A new oil store was placed along the south restaurant, which with its kitchen extended into the floor terraces and a lino floor (described as ‘jointless in Brighton Borough Council’s office in May 1968 block projecting to the north. Placed below this was flooring in colour’) supplied by The Standard the entrance concourse, open to the main entrance Pavements Company. from the east and providing access to the western side and boating pool. To the north of the concourse The plant room and its associated infrastructure played was a plant room/fuel store accessed from the service a vital role in pumping heated and purified water for yard to the north, and to the east a stairhall providing the pool. The fountain, also lined with ‘Cullamix’ tiles access to the staff room and W.C. and up a staircase to and placed to the centre of its north side, served to the restaurant kitchens. aerate the water flowing into the pool from the heated boiler in the plant room, which was vented via a flue The simplified drawings of the lido which accompany which extended through the centre of the restaurant this text are based on those drawn in Jones’s office above to appear as a feature on the upper sun terrace. on the 27 of April 1937. The pool is 140 foot (42.67 The scum channel around the edge of the pool served metres) long. Its width varies due to the northern side to collect surface water into an outlet below the pool being curved to follow the line of the main building, from where it was pumped back to the plant room to averaging 50 foot (15.24 metres). An additional be strained of any surface matter and then returned as paddling pool for children was provided in the south- filtered and purified water to the pool. west corner of the site, and the area between the main pool and the southern boundary was made up as an artificial sand beach with play areas – an idea taken 1963-64 from the resort pools that had developed since 1913 in the United States. The pools were surrounded by Plans were drawn up at the Brighton Borough concrete-slab promenades, with the drawings showing Surveyor’s office, from November 1962. 55 While the ‘Cullamix’ tile paving extending to the main building. main south-facing lido building was unaltered, the An aerial view of the lido in 1966, showing the car parking and also the western extension to the restaurant, Blue ‘Cullamix’ tiles lined the pools. These two-inch extension to the north for the new library, community before it was extended further to meet the main lido range facing south. The image also clearly shows the thick ceramic tiles were supplied by the Cambridge rooms and associated services necessitated the Artificial Stone Company and had been used for many removal of the small boating pool. While being 1930s café overlooking the beach. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. other pools of the period (Smith 98-101, for example completed in a similar style to the original building, at Peterborough (listed grade II) and Croydon with steel windows and cement render over cavity (demolished). brickwork (instead of concrete), final amendments made in August 1963 led to the creation of separate The whole building was built in reinforced concrete, access for visitors to the new community facilities internally painted and externally sprayed to provide a from the east. ‘rough matt surface’. The thin walls (5 to 6 inches, 0.127- 0.152 metres) are sufficient to support the ceiling slabs The new eastern entrance opened into a stairhall. This of the outer wings, which are only 16 foot (4.87 metres) wide. Steel columns and beams provide the supporting 54 Examples survive on the hangars at RAF Duxford, now the framework for the central block, functioning as a Imperial War Museum. They now operate under the name of colonnade for the open area of the cantilevered Jewers (www.jewersdoors.co.uk). Their warehouse survives at Esavian House, 171–181 High Holborn, London central projection and then continuing as mullions 55 D.J. Howe is named as the Borough Surveyor and P. for the restaurant doors where they fold onto the Billington as the Chief Architect. Many of the plans do not front terrace. The terraces, which to the first floor are show the lido as completed or as surviving today. Ground and first-floor plans of January 1963 (ref 2091/4 and 5) are the most provided with cantilevered overhangs offering shade, reliable, as they record amendments dated October 1963 to May An aerial view of the lido from the south in 2012, showing the island built after 1987 which subdivided the were finished with tiles laid over bituminous felt and 1968 and were stamped in Brighton Borough Council’s office provided with tubular steel railings. The steel-framed on 14 October 1968. Drawings dated August 1964 slightly adapt pool. Note also the 1930s beach café in the foreground and the Saltdean Tavern public house to its west. these Photo © Conrans Architects.

28 29 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

side of this extension. The plant was renewed and the The 1980s and 1990s plant room and oil store lined in brick, the existing plant being supplied by the well-known Swedish The swimming pool was transformed over this period. boiler manufacturers Norrahammars Bruk in 1964.57 A water flume was built to discharge into the east side of the pool. A free swimming area was then reserved Significant alterations to the entrance were made. along the south side of the pool. Drawings dated These were possibly finally completed early in 1964, March 1987 by the Directorate of Technical Services but they were certainly completed by October 1968 planned for creation of a ‘toddlers’ play area to the (the date of a drawing stamped in the Borough office). north accessed by a ramp and slides to the north and All visitors to the lido were now guided past a pay separated from the remainder of the pool by a glass desk in the ticket office inserted into the former foyer. fibre island, toadstools and a ‘mushroom fountain’. Swimmers were then directed through newly-inserted Apart from the flume, these elements were never doorways into a corridor and then the changing constructed. The pool was then split into two parts by cubicles, before handing their belongings over a new a central island with a flagpole. clothes issue counter next to the entrance to the pool area. After closing again, in 1995, the lido was reopened in 1997 with repairs financed by the sale of land on The lido in summer 1938, showing the sand play areas and the post-and-panel fencing around the The whole site is shown surrounded by the same timber which the Saltdean Tavern public house was built. The perimeter. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. panel fencing with concrete posts. New windbreaks main entrance to the lido was moved to the end of the were placed around the pool’s promenade, made of eastern wing, thus enabling the north extension to be ‘armour plate glass’ set into cedar wood frames. The completely self-contained. Some new partitioning was notes on the drawings also indicate the need for inserted into what remained of the concourse area, in repair and renewal where necessary of the terrace order to create more new rooms including a doctors’ railings and repair of the Esavian folding doors to the surgery. restaurant.

1967-70 Sometime between October 1966 and 1970 58 the western extension was further extended south to meet the west wing of the 1938 building, housing on the first floor an extension to the restaurant above a general-purpose meeting room adjacent to a service area for the lido. A new doorway in the north elevation connected to a corridor driven through the fuel store, now subdivided into a western room (probably a clinic) and a small annex to the plant room. The plans stamped in October 1966 still show the The lido from the south west, c. 1970. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. stairs in the rotunda. These were removed when the extension to the west was built, and there was a much more clearer separation between the first-floor restaurant and the lido.

57 The manufacturing number of ‘0200’ is shown on the plate fitted to the boiler. While operating under its own name, the company had in fact been acquired by the Husqvarna armaments company in 1919. The historic factory remains at Narrahammar, where iron has been produced from the 17th century and there is The lido in about 1965. From the Saltdean Lido The lido in about 1998, showing the cetral island a museum (www.industrimuseet.se) 58 The dates of a plan stamped on 14 October 1966, which does Archive. with its sail. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. not show the extension, and an aerial photograph which shows it

30 31 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

• The 1930s spiral stairs to the rooftop terrace (The Art of Swimming), published in 1587. The PART 2 SALTDEAN LIDO’S SIGNIFICANCE survives. A section of the metal balustrade has writings of Wordsworth and Coleridge, Byron’s well- been welded across the vestibule created by the publicised swimming of the Hellespont and artistic removal of the lower stairs, from which it was no representations of bathing such as John Constable’s Saltdean Lido’s architectural significance is here Lewes (a pool rebuilt several times since 1860 and doubt removed. Hampstead Heath with Pond and Bathers (1821) considered as an example of a surviving outdoor pool set in a walled area) and the 1906 pool at Tooting testify how swimming in the landscape was admirably within its broad historical context, for its architectural Bec Common in south London. • The stairhall is the principal feature of the 1960s suited to the Romantic tradition as it developed in the significance and its significance as a resort pool within extension, with granolithic flooring,, a plain metal • Saltdean is one of 36 out of 203 outdoor pools 62 balustrade to the open-well stairs and fluted later 18th and early 19th centuries. This rich cultural its landscape setting. The analysis of this significance surviving from the inter-war period, and only panelling to the first floor with original lavatory tradition leaves little archaeological trace, other than benefits from the compilation of a database of over 19 outdoor pools which have retained as a doors. The internal treatment, excepting the the base of a changing hut or diving platform from the 360 recorded outdoor pools and lidos in England, coherent suite the key historic elements of an restaurant area as described above, is plain and more recent past. so that all documented and surviving sites can be inter-war lido – pool, grounds and usually cafes it was subject to further alterations in the later analysed with regard to their date of construction, the and changing rooms – in their original form. It Most outdoor pools pre-dating the First World War 1960s and in 1997. architectural style of their buildings, their landscape is, moreover, one of a small number of Modern were built for the social elite, for paying guests at context, degree of survival and other factors including Movement buildings built in Britain between the • The 1937 pool tank has been altered and modified prestigious inland and coastal resorts. Over the 19th 59 current management if they remain open. First and Second World Wars – the significance of throughout its history. As part of the 2015/2016 century indoor pools were developed, primarily by municipal authorities and in military barracks and Saltdean Lido was one of a wide range of outdoor this will be considered later. external works the pool is been re-instated as a public schools,63 as places for hygiene, discipline swimming pools, often termed lidos, which were built single tank. The fountain, which served to aerate • Pools constructed after the Second World War and moral improvement. It has been argued that mostly by municipal authorities in the inter-war period the pool, had not worked since the 1997 works. It are typically much simpler in their overall design, their establishment went hand-in-hand with more across Europe and America. The term ‘lido’ was taken is now being reinstated using the original 1937 with plain functional buildings. 54 pools are restrictions being placed by local authorities on mixed from the Venetian resort, Lido di Venezia, which by the plans. The paddling pool, which had been buried, recorded as being constructed in this period, of bathing in natural surroundings that were open to early 20th century had become the most fashionable is being re-instated to its original footprint. which nine have been demolished, three are still public view.64 The Baths and Washhouses Act of 1846 in Italy and whose worldwide fame lent itself to the • The pool area was screened with glass panels set open but have been redeveloped and eight have enabled local authorities to borrow money against the naming of countless beach resorts. (‘Riviera’ was in concrete-panel fencing in 1962–63. The area been closed but still retain their pools. rates in order to build bathing and washing facilities, similarly adopted by authorities seeking to repackage around the paved poolside was grassed over in and further amendments in 1878 and 1898 heightened and promote seaside resorts in the inter-war period.) Saltdean Lido was designed with and retains all of the the 1960s, replacing the original sand surface the role of swimming as an activity. These were mostly While the term ‘lido’ was widely adopted from 1930, features that one might expect of open air pools as which was intended as a multi-use games area. indoor pools built to serve working-class areas, with when it was first used for the revived Serpentine Lido they had developed up to the mid 1930s - clean and facilities for washing, gymnasia, meeting rooms and in Hyde Park. 60 there is a longer tradition of open sometimes heated water for bathing and swimming, other communal purposes. air pools which stretches from the 19th century. This, often with a diving board, areas for sunbathing, 2.2 HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE and consideration that some authorities rejected the relaxation, social interaction and sport, and buildings The development of swimming as a popular The planning of Saltdean Lido, with its Streamline newly-fashionable term, means that ‘lidos’ and ‘open for changing, refreshment and servicing the pool. As public sport with its own rules and regulations (the Modern building with sun-bathing terraces orientated air pools’ can be used as interchangeable terms to a result of the remodelling of the pool in the 1960s Amateur Swimming Association was formed in 1886) to face south towards the pool and family recreation describe very similar places. and later: prompted the establishment of a large number of areas, reflects significant historic developments in clubs and societies across Britain. These were initially • The south elevation survives as designed by Western culture that are evident from the late 19th concentrated along rivers, lakes or pools and around Jones, with its tubular steel railings to the century but fully flowered in the inter-war period; the coast (Brighton had 25 separate clubs by the 2.1 SURVIVAL OF THE SITE AND FABRIC terraces, metal-framed Crittall windows and the desire of individuals and the state to improve late 1890s), prior to the development of pools.65 The folding wooden ‘Esavian’ doors to the restaurant. health; the cult of sun worship; and the development Saltdean is one of 361 outdoor pools recorded as Serpentine in London’s Hyde Park was well known of recreation as a less segregated and more inclusive having been constructed in England, 100 of which • The north elevations of the outer wings survive as a public swimming and recreation area in the 18th form of cultural activity for the enjoyment of families, remain open with different levels of survival of the as designed by Jones, with their Crittall metal- century: although provided with its own swimming women and children. Such an integrated approach to historic fabric: framed windows. club in 1864, it was not provided with a substantial the design of open air architecture and recreational building for changing until the 1930s. Also in London, • 104 outdoor pools are recorded from the period • The 1930s interiors to the ground floor have landscapes represented, as Ken Worpole has swimming developed around the ponds and reservoirs up to and including 1914. The great majority – been transformed, as a result of new circulation shown, the culmination of the drive for better urban on Hampstead Heath over the 18th and 19th centuries.66 75 – have been demolished. Eight remain open routes and entrances introduced in 1963–64, the environments, public health and leisure facilities that The National Swimming Society was running but have been substantially redeveloped with stripping out and reordering of the changing had become an increasingly important issue from the competitions on the Serpentine and elsewhere from very little of the original plan or fabric surviving. rooms and the loss of the central spiral concrete mid 19th century.61 Besides a group of high status sites built for staircase within the rotunda. fee-paying subscribers, the principal surviving 62 Parr 2011, 49-65 • The 1930s first-floor restaurant area survives as 63 Pools were built on army and naval barracks from the later historic pools from this period are The Pells in an open space. Its internal detail dates from the Historical background: Swimming to 1914 19th century, one rare survival being sited behind the militia 1960s remodelling and extension to the west, barracks at Cirencester in Gloucestershire, and also at public 59 This has been compiled by the author to aid consideration There is a well-documented tradition of river and schools, such as the fine surviving pool at Cheltenham College and comprises plain doors and joinery, parquet of the significance of Sandford Parks Lido in Cheltenham, pond swimming in England, most famously forming (listed grade II) prior to renewal of its lease, and it will be circulated to all other flooring and flat metal balustrades flanking the the backdrop to Everard Digby’s De Arte Natandi 64 Ayriss 2009 management bodies for surviving lidos after further consultation steps from the 1960s north extension. 65 Parr 2011, 98 60 Smith 2003, 22 61 Worpole 2002a 66 Inglis 2014, 155

32 33 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Saltdean Lido in about 1985, before the pool was subdivided. Image © Kristina Stedman.

This wonderful publicity illustration from 1937 shows the lido in use as an arena for sport, relaxation and display by stylish young men and women. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

The lido from the same position in 2015, showing the flag pole set in the central island which subdivided the pool in 1997. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

A postcard showing the lido, with the children’s pool inthe foreground, taken on Grand Gala Day in 1938. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

34 35 Plan as depicted 27.4.1937

Upper Floor (Roof) Plan

TEMPLE TO THE SUN: Jumior Pool The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Tank Room

the 1830s, the Amateur Swimming Association had the lead in promoting hygiene and fitness, whether StoreKitchen StaffLift Outlet Inlet Room Room Main circulation routes, been founded in 1880, and massive crowds attended New Deal American, Fascist or Soviet.72 The policy of Toilet Toilet from concourseArea to Lift central foyer and 67 Plant Room below Service Entrance flankingCanopy changing areas races and water polo matches. The rectangular form the British government from the 1930s to the 1960s to Staff Area and Switch Counter Service Kitchen Area Room Toilet and standardised lengths of municipal and private was to encourage local action through grants and Paved area Down indoor and outdoor pools increasingly paralleled the loans, for example as part of the 1934 Special Areas Boiler Flue Boiler Main Entrance House Pool Flue development from the mid-19th century of swimming (Development and Improvement) Act and the 1937 Jumior Pool elevation 68 73 Concourse as a popular competitive sport. The rectangular tank Physical Training and Recreation Act). This trend Front Elevation had developed in the second half of the 19th century was accompanied by the development of the private

Foyer as the most form of swimming pool, largely due to open air pool, from its point of origin amongst East Female Male the comparative ease of construction and the fact Coast glitterati and then Hollywood stars of the 1920s, Changing Clothes Clothes Changing Store Store that it facilitated competitive swimming. Swimming and the promotion of swimming and aquatic displays clubs have long been associated with these outdoor in Hollywood films. There was even a magazine pools, such as South London Swimming Club’s long (Chute) dedicated to swimming, sunbathing and Changing Changing Cubicles Cubicles association with the 90-metre Tooting Bec Lido built open air recreation. Popular demand was evidenced Steps to in 1906 and redeveloped in the 1930s. by a growing interest and involvement in fitness Toilets Toilets Pool Area Down clubs and movements in which women played a particularly prominent role, such as the National Saltdean and inter-war history Fitness Campaign, the Women’s League of Health and Steps to Steps to Beauty (who often graced pools with their carefully Sun Terrace Sun Terrace Fountain Saltdean and the other key surviving outdoor pools of choreographed displays) and The Sunlight League – the period were planned to afford new opportunities although the vagaries of the British weather led some for relaxation, socialising, sports and the new cult to adopt the wonderful phrase ‘active air bathing’ in 74 Scum of sun worship and bodily display. Cafes and kiosks preference to ‘sunbathing’. Channel provided refreshments for swimmers and spectators alike. Hence the remark of the chairman of the Bank of England, Sir Josiah Stamp, who said in 1936 that ‘Bathing reduces rich and poor, high and low, to a common standard of enjoyment and health. When we get down to swimming, we get down to democracy’.69 Diving Stage This was a sentiment widely shared and expressed at

Feet lido openings up and down the country. It was also 0 10 20 echoed elsewhere in the Western world, as officials 0 3 6 responded to the increasing public desire to leave Metres behind the formality and expressions of social difference inherited from the past. As an American Visitors, once they had entered the concourse area, were faced with three doors providing access public official announced in 1939 ‘Let’s build bigger, Plan as depicted 27.4.1937 to the main pool and its facilities, for spectators (in the centre) and male and female swimmers to better and finer pools, that’s real democracy. Take either side. away the sham and hypocrisy of clothes, don a swim 70 Spectators not intending to swim passed through the central door into the foyer, from whence they suit, and we’re all the same’. could walk into the main pool area or proceed up the central concrete spiral stair to the first-floor Various other strands of thinking also wove together restaurant. in the inter-war period to drive the building of lidos: This opened onto sun terraces with chair stores at each end sited next to concrete stairs to the pool public health and urban reform, new concepts of area. Sun worshippers could also gain access to a solarium on the roof. regenerative and therapeutic landscape design, the desire of individuals and families to seek their own Swimmers entered a lobby before proceeding to the changing cubicles and, once they had handed forms of entertainment and the strategic aims of over their clothes in wire baskets for storage, collected their towels before walking via foot baths into nation states to improve the health and well-being of the pool area with its surrounding promenade formed of precast concrete slabs. their citizens.71 Most outdoor pools were financed by The diving board, also in reinforced concrete, was placed centrally on the south side of the pool. For national and local governments of different political swimmers and non-swimmers alike, the concrete stairs placed on the outer end of each of the flanking hues throughout the Western world, keen to be taking arms provided access to the sun terraces and the first-floor restaurant with its kitchens placed to the north. 67 Birley 1995, 210 68 See Gordon and Inglis 2009 for the most authoratitive account of indoor swimming pools in Britain 69 Smith 2005, 19 72 Buchli 1999, 52; Ghirardo 1989 70 Wiltse 2007, 208 73 Holt 1990, 270; Worpole 2002a; Gardiner 2010, 165-7, 516 71 Gandy 2006, 499 74 Gardiner 2010, 518

36 37 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Fuel Store Delivery

Suction Plant Room

Boiler Flue

Concourse

Female Male Changing Clothes Clothes Changing Store Store

Changing Cubicles

Toilets Toilets

Photograph of Mary Florence The fountain in summer 1938. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. Inlet

Carpenter enjoying the fount- Steps to Sun Terrace ain whilst on a day trip from Fountain London around 1938–39. Note the neon SALTDEAN LIDO sign which was removed during Scum Channel the Second World War. From the Saltdean Lido Archive.

Balance Tank A temple to the sun Pioneer Health Centre in Peckham, designed by the

engineer Owen Williams, and Oliver Hill’s Finsbury Outlet Outlet Saltdean Lido is clearly planned and designed to Health Centre which was adorned with slogans such Diving Stage maximise exposure to the sun. It is orientated south as ‘Live out of Doors as Much as You Can’.77 The inter- and planned as an arc with sun terraces and areas, and war period, however, saw sun worship celebrated as folding doors opening out from the projecting café. the ‘most ubiquitous image of the inter-war period’ This reflects how most lidos and open air pools of the and the suntan being elevated to new levels of high period were planned to link buildings to landscape fashion and social prestige, popularised by Coco and open space, and thus harness the regenerative Chanel and the invention and promotion of sun tan This plan, based on the April1937 drawings by Jones, shows how the pool water was heated and cleansed. qualities of nature, air and sunlight. oil (in 1929).78 Many writers of the period referred to The pool and the engineering plant was designed to recycle and heat water in the following manner: The cult of sun worship emerged as a key feature of the an individual and collective desire for mental and Plan as depicted 27.4.1937 1. The pool was designed to be filled so that water would flow towards a main outlet set in the floor of period following the First World War and the influenza physical regeneration, to ‘wash away the memories, pandemic of 1918–20. Awareness of the benefits of the guilt and the pain; [and] by basking themselves in the deep end under the diving board; ceramic scum channels lining the pool also took surface waste 79 sunlight for tuberculosis and other chest ailments had the sun, bake themselves to health and vitality’. towards a balance tank at the deep end. developed from the 19th century, and had influenced The provision of sun terraces and folding doors at 2. The water from the pool, controlled by a gate valve and a non-return flap, was then taken through a the design of sea-bathing hospitals and sanatoria Saltdean Lido is also very significant in this context. suction pipe to the plant room. 75 with south-facing balconies. Open air schools Modernist buildings with flat roofs for sun bathing 3. Once passing through a basket which collected any detritus the water was then pumped into a cast have a special place in this movement, with inter- (see below) and new forms of garden design were iron tank where it was filtered through sand agitated by compressed air, gauges being used to measure war architects working in the forefront of modernist designed to harness the benefits of sun and light.80 the pressure. styles and innovative planning to link buildings to In the inter-war years, particularly in the 1930s, sun air, light and water.76 The half-butterfly plan, with 4. Dirty water was ejected into the mains sewers. When required, the flow of water was reversed through lounges with folding doors and windows and solaria the sand, a process known as backwashing. the outer wings facing south to capture the sun, was with vita-glass windows became a feature of many widely used (for example at Suresnes of 1931–35 by seafront hotels.81 5. The filtered water from the filters is then sterilised with chemicals and pumped through a pipe and Eugène Beaudouin and Marcel Lods). The benefits of fountain back into the pool. sunlight and air were also popularised by progressive 77 Dean 1983, 86 movements in health and social welfare, notably the 78 Birley 1995, 13; Braggs and Harris 2000, 49-51 79 Sprawson 1992, 201, 264 75 Brodie and Winter 2007, 110-119 80 Worpole 2002a, Grey 2009 76 Châtelet et al, 2003 81 Brodie and Winter 2007, 118-119)

38 39 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

Saltdean was also designed with an extensive The icon of the diving artificial beach for relaxation and play. Very few resort woman was a popular swimming pools of this kind were built in Britain motif in the inter-war during this period, but none survive in a complete period, here used on a state as at Saltdean. American resort pools were ticket from Sandford Park notable in the inter-war period for their diversity of Lido in Cheltenham. From form and the use of pool decks and sandy beaches to the Sandford Park Archive. enable free play and sunbathing.82

to allow women to bathe in privacy.85 Like cycling Landscapes for all and landscapes for display and walking, swimming as a leisure pursuit had been developing as a counterpoint to the more familiar and Saltdean and other inter-war lidos were designated moral discipline of school drill and team sports – and as spaces for social interaction. They facilitated often one which women undertook in uncomfortable revolutionary new forms of bodily expression and clothing and in the face of hostility and ridicule, despite experience which in the inter-war period challenged performing so well in the 1912 Olympics.86 Already Photographs from The Architect and Building News, August 1938, showing exterior and interior views of the those inherited from the past. Their planning finally before the First World War, well-known figures such as first-floor restaurant with its folding doors. Note the exterior floor tiles and the interior smooth lino flooring, dispensed with the segregation by sex and class the swimmer and actress Annette Kellerman extolled replaced in the 1960s by parquet flooring. and the separation of children from adults that had the democratic and liberating sensation of swimming characterised most pre-war bathing and swimming beyond the surf line, as distinct from the tradition of establishments. Once changed, visitors were free to bathing or the common practice of segregating pools move and interact with their friends and families as into male and female areas.87 they pleased. Designers were thus able to experiment with a variety of forms and styles for the boundaries, As well as Annette Kellerman, cinema brought internal planning and buildings of open air pools, and Johnny Weismüller, an Olympic swimmer and star of sometimes how to integrate them into neighbouring the first Tarzan films, to the attention of millions: he or surrounding parkland. entertained crowds with his diving displays at many pools up and down the country, one of these being at Significant developments included the design of Brighton’s Sports Stadium in 1934.88 The Americans, paddling pools and other special areas for children, and in particular the Scandinavians, had promoted at Saltdean the children’s pool being complemented diving – and in particular what became the iconic by a children’s area with toadstools and rabbits on the swan dive – as a popular spectator sport. western slope of the site. From the 1890s authorities across the United States, most notably in Chicago, Swimmers such as Gertrude Ederle, made famous were beginning to integrate pools into recreational by her swimming of the English Channel in 1926, Views of the rotunda and southern elevation of the lido in 1938-9, showing the pool with its fountain. From landscapes which facilitated free and unstructured also became household names and extraordinarily The Architect and Building News, August 1938 (left) and the RIBA Photographic Collection 41868 (right). play for children – quite revolutionary new concepts influential: in the words of Fortune magazine, for the time. The designers of these pools, including she ‘had much the same effect on swimming America’s first resort pool at St Louis (1913), often that Lindbergh had on aviation. She boomed it. rejected the rectangular tank in favour of freer forms She made it a tremendous vogue’.89 with curved sides or dedicated children’s pools that encouraged this type of play.83 New synthetic fibres, and in particular the Jantzen swimsuit − ‘the suit that changed bathing to The planning and design of outdoor pools also swimming’90 − freed women in particular from the provides evidence for significant developments in soggy embrace of the woollen bathing suit, which women’s history. The great majority of pre-1914 pools limited freedom of expression and had considerable had been strictly segregated by gender and class.84 An potential for embarrassment. The icon of the diving important example of this is the Kings Meadow Baths woman was the result of this change. Saltdean at Reading (listed grade II), built in 1902 in the corner Lido capitalised on this trend and rented and sold of a park with buildings enclosing the pool in order fashionable swimming costumes at their ‘Cosmeteria’ 85 Smith 2005, 19 82 Wiltse 2007, 98–101 86 Birley 1995, 42, 204, 208; Holt 1990, 123-48 83 Wiltse 2007, 56–77; Taylor 2000, 141 87 Lenček and Bosker 1998, 191; Smith 2005, 19 84 Mixed bathing was popular in seaside resorts by 1914, but 88 See www.mybrightonandhove.org.uk/page_id_9004.aspx View of the rotunda from the east in 1938, showing the bar area around the curtain glazing that encloses until the new designs for displaying newly-fashionable tanned accessed 20 June 2015 physiques introduced in the 1930s costumes were still expensive 89 Wiltse 2007, 97 the spiral stairs removed in the 1960s. and cumbersome (Walvin 1978, 78 and 143) 90 Lenček and Bosker 1998, 187−9, 210

40 41 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

(see page 21). Growing consumer demand for this war period, all being united by a desire for new styles freedom of expression and performance in the which broke with the past. Its principal protagonists open air was also enabled by further technological advocated the use of machine-age materials and developments. By the 1920s, developments in techniques to improve the quality of life and pumping and filtration systems, in order to maintain advance social progress across the world – hence the the flow and purity of the water, were matched by that overarching term ‘International Style’ first coined of strong materials such as reinforced concrete for in 1932.93 It drew from various social and artistic containing tons of water and resisting surrounding threads that had developed in America and especially ground pressure. 91 Cleanliness, and in particular water Europe since before the First World War. The use of purity for the prevention of disease, had emerged as a steel framing with reinforced concrete enabled the key theme in the design of swimming pools from the design of smooth unbroken surfaces including flat mid-19th century – although the technology to enable roofs for exercise, sunbathing and taking the view. this was slow to catch up. Few visitors to lidos are This constructional framework also enabled internal aware of the sophisticated systems that are needed for freedom of circulation, including the placement of circulating clean and sometimes heated water. Pools partitions where required. Columns (termed ‘pilotis’ were designed so that water was taken for cleansing by Le Corbusier) enabling the main accommodation and filtering via scum channels set around the edge to be lifted off the ground floor and the structural and an outlet at the deepest end of the pool. The most floor slab to be appreciated as an integral element of common, and maintenance-free, method of filtering the design. All these techniques offered new ways of water was forcing it through pressurised tanks filled arranging internal space and linking it to the external with sand, before it was disinfected with chemicals design of a building, what Le Corbusier termed the and then returned to the pool. Saltdean Lido’s own ‘masterly, correct and magnificent play of volumes three-tiered, cascade fountain is typically Art Deco brought together in light’.94 and of its period. All of these elements were used at Saltdean, but not

in the strict sense as practised by the adherents of 2.3 arCHITECTURAL STYLE the ‘International Style’ – whether architects with an international influence such as Le Corbusier or Saltdean Lido is noted as one of the most significant nationally-celebrated practitioners of the style such examples of Modern Movement architecture in as the Connell, Ward and Lucas partnership (who as Britain, a style which is overwhelmingly concentrated we have seen worked on houses in Saltdean). Jones in southern England.92 This style covers a diversity instead opted for a curvilinear form and a plasticity of architectural forms which matured in the inter- of treatment that reflects the influence of what was then known as Streamline Moderne, seen also in 91 The Cement and Concrete Association published guidance automobile and nautical architecture of the period. on open air swimming pools in about 1937 The design of the lido suggests that ships – and 92 It is included as a case study in Alan Powers’s overview of the modern movement in Britain (Powers 2005, 154-155); for 93 Khan 1998, 7-18 distribution of Modern style houses see Dean 1983, 22-4 94 quoted in Weston 1996, 9

Reconstruction of central part of south elevation, showing the lost neon sign and the colour of the original paintwork revealed by paint analysis by Crick Smith, undertaken late in 2015. This shows that the walls Another publicity image predating the construction of the lido on the site of the tennis courts (top centre), were treated in a pale yellow cream oil paint and mid green was used for the doors, windows, balcony showing the range of architectural styles associated with its houses and the entrances to the tunnel under railings and downpipes. Mid green was also used for the columns in the first-floor restaurant. Image © Marine Drive. Conrans Architects. 42 43 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido particularly the fashionable cruise liners of the period Mendehlsohn’s de la Warr Pavilion in Bexhill (1934- – were a particular source of inspiration. Saltdean 35), one of the most celebrated Modernist buildings Lido’s central design feature is the glass rotunda of its period. It has a semi-circular stair tower which, combined with the seaward view, would have like Saltdean, but it is otherwise a vastly different afforded its early visitors the impression of being sat building in form and scale. Recreational buildings, at the bow of an ocean liner. The rotunda is flanked such as E.B. Musman’s Comet Inn at Hatfield in either side by tea terraces, which are enclosed by Hertfordshire (1936), commonly employed central tubular railings, again not unlike the railings of a stair towers with sun terraces. Other significant ship. With the central chimney system being linked Streamline Modern buildings predating Saltdean to the plant room, this also makes reference to a ship’s lido, and potential sources of inspiration for funnel. . Jones, are: This style, indeed, adapted the key principles of • Ove Arup’s Labworth Café at Canvey Island International Modern to the design of streamlined (1931–32). The central two-storey café and buildings, horizontally-articulated with flat roofs and flanking side wings is broadly similar as a rounded projections and corners. It was often used for concept to Saltdean, although in a flat and not the design of apartment blocks, often in combination curved plane, with folding windows and doors. with aerodynamic or nautical themes such as rounded • Oliver Hill’s Midland Hotel at Morecambe, which ends inspired by the great liners of the period such although far larger in scale and ambition as a as the SS Normandie or the Queen Mary. Local hotel has a curved plan marked by a central stair examples include Marine Court at St Leonards-on- tower. Sea (1938, by Dalgliesh and Pullen) with its curved • David Pleydell-Bouverie’s Ramsgate Aerodrome ends and promenade deck.95 To make matters yet (1936-7, demolished), with its aerofoil plan and a The lido from the south east in August 1938, showing the beach area subdivided by fencing. From the more confusing, this style could be combined with the central two-storey tower. much more decorative Art Deco, commonly termed Saltdean Lido Archive. ‘Jazz Modern’ in the late 1920s and 1930s and most Saltdean Lido is uniquely significant as an example commonly used in Britain for places of entertainment. of a lido in the Modern style, which was clearly the Lurking beneath the surface of many British examples preferred choice of style for outdoor pools of the of the style was the symmetrical and stripped-down inter-war period (53 out of 203 recorded sites). It was form of neo-classical architecture, often providing a singled out in the architectural press as a first-rate framework for the application of Moderne and Art example of Modern architecture. J. R. Leathart praised Deco treatment, it in the October 1938 issue of Building as ‘one of the few really first-class designs of its type in the country’, The lack of any correspondence makes it difficult contrasting it with what he regarded as the ‘coarse to pronounce with certainty on how Jones was and clumsy’ seaside architecture of the municipal influenced by other recent work. Any reader of the engineer. This barbed comment reflected that current architectural press would have been aware architects and the growing profession of landscape that various forms of the modern style had been used design (the Institute of Landscape Architects was for the design of seaside resort architecture of the formed in 1929) were rarely employed in the design 1930s.96 By the time that Saltdean was being planned of public open air swimming pools. Leathart went on, the architect Wells Coates had completed Embassy ‘This is a remarkably restrained design; it has a well- Court in west Brighton, each flat being provided shaped curvilinear plan form, and in the treatment with a balcony, sliding and folding windows and an of the elevations there is a sensitive appreciation of enclosed sun room; the whole building was topped by line and massing which is unusual in buildings of this a sun roof.97 One of the most remarkable examples of a character’.100 Modernist airport terminal had been built and recently opened, at Shoreham on the west side of Brighton.98 Other Modern-style lidos were mostly built by Its architect, Stavers Tiltman, was evidently also at municipal engineers and lack the purity of line and ease designing buildings in historic styles such as the treatment that Jones achieved at Saltdean. They tend Farmer’s Hotel in Lancing.99 – even at their best as at Penzance – to mix some of the basic rules of Modernism along with a wide range Jones would certainly have been aware of Erich of architectural influences. This is not intended as The lido from the south in August 1938, showing the children’s play area. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. 95 Brodie and Winter 2007, 86 being condescending to the engineer’s profession, 96 Brodie and Winter 2007, 84–88 and more a reflection of the tension to reconcile the 97 Powers2005, 82–3 complex technical challenges of building lidos with 98 Hawkins and Lake, 2005 99 Gould 1983, 121 100 Leatheart, 1938

44 45 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido making them into exciting new foci of seaside resorts at Croydon was built to accompany the nearby pool building was originally built as a band enclosure modernism’ and wanted new architecture to forge in particular.101 The largest and most famous of these international airport. This has been mostly (listed grade II), the other key survivals (all listed at national and local identity.106 (now demolished) included the immense and also redeveloped, retaining its diving board and the main grade II) are the Modern style complexes opened Classical Beaux Arts-influenced complexes at New Modern-style building in adapted form, but when in 1935 at Penzance and Tinside Lido in Plymouth, Nevertheless, the new lido and the pool at the Ocean Brighton (1934, by the Borough Engineer Lieutenant built it had unique interest as a heated pool built in and the 1932 lido at Grange over Sands, unusually Hotel signalled Neville’s intention to emulate local Sergeant G Wilkinson) and Morecambe (1936, by Cecil association with the airport and the Purley Way bypass old-fashioned for a coastal lido but consistent with authorities’ leadership in the construction of open Sutton and the well-known pool architect Kenneth (1925, one of the world’s earliest). It was provided with the architectural character of this genteel late air swimming pools as new places in the vanguard of MB Cross) which was designed to complement cafes, underwater lighting, palm trees, rooftop sun Victorian resort. Some earlier sites were adapted in social change and the drive for fitness. Its siting also the well-known Midland Hotel, a major example of terraces and shingle artificial beach areas. this period, significant examples being Cliftonville enabled it to be viewed from a variety of levels – below Modern architecture by Oliver Hill.102 Other examples in Margate which was redeveloped by the builder of from those approaching the site from the beach and of Modern seaside resort pools, enclosed or built the neighbouring Dreamland Amusement Park (also above from the coastal road, the development around adjacent to the sea, were Folkestone (1936), Ramsgate 2.4 THE RESORT LANDSCAPE listed grade II and re-opened after restoration in 2015) the Oval and in particular the new Ocean Hotel. (1935) and Weston-super-Mare (1937). Saltdean is one of 38 outdoor pools documented as and the working in 1933 of the pool at Lymington in Although the lido was orientated to look south over the Modernist style by Lymington Borough, which was The fresh-faced and vibrant architecture of these being built for a coastal resort. Coastal resort pools sea, the lido’s position on the edge of the Oval made it dating from before the First World War were the most advertising Lymington as a holiday resort. Some lidos a focal point of the new development at Saltdean, and seaside lidos offers a striking contrast to the more at these coastal resorts and some inland resorts (as sober style of the lidos designed by the London likely to be designed as architectural showpieces and the amenities offered by the Oval to both residents and provided with an infrastructure of cafés and changing at Cheltenham) provided car parking. There was a visitors. These included a sports pavilion, golf course County Council architects H.A. Rowbotham and T.L. massive expansion of car ownership in the inter-war Smithson between 1937 and 1939. The pools, mostly buildings than inland pools, as at the 1914–15 South and tennis courts, and also Saltdean Barn which was Bay Pool in Scarborough which was built at the foot period, enabling the enjoyment of coastal and other converted for use as a riding school advertised by the 50 metres long except the ‘super-sized’ Parliament areas not accessible by train. An early brochure for Hill (provided with a grandstand for spectators) of the Italianate Gardens. These resorts continued estate, including for guests staying at the newly-built to make a significant contribution to the expansion Saltdean Lido advertises its car park as having space Ocean Hotel.107 This was one of a series of 18th and and Victoria Park, are surrounded by sun lounging for 1,000 cars.105 areas, brick walls and buildings including changing of Britain’s housing stock after the First World War, 19th century outfarms in the area, sited away from rooms, pavilions and offices. The result is a strong along the south coast in particular. The lido and the Ocean Hotel thus contribute to a farmsteads to enable storage of the harvested crop remarkably varied range of modernist and historic and the yard-feeding of cattle whose manure was used sense of enclosure to each lido, with glimpses of Saltdean Lido is the only outdoor pool to have been revival styles which are found within Saltdean and to enrich the thin downland soils. The estate had also trees in adjacent parks and contemporary houses. built within a seaside resort developed in the inter- Rottingdean – Tudorbethan suburbia, a touch of the converted Newlands Barn, set within land enclosed The buildings were all designed in the Moderne war period, and the only one designed as a pair exotic in the white walls and blue tiles of Spanish from the downs by 1732, into stores and offices.108 style, very reminiscent of the work of the influential with a hotel and pool by the same developer.103 By Revival houses and the restoration of the early 19th Dutch architect H. H. Dudock. Parliament Hill and the 1930s outdoor pools were considered as a vital This provides a unique instance for the period of a century Saltdean Barn as part of the same leisure Brockwell Park – both facing large parks – are the accompaniment to coastal resorts. As the architect private developer, as opposed to a municipal authority, complex. This serves as a reminder that Modernist best-preserved of the group, and both are listed and planner S.D. Adshead noted: being involved in the construction of an open air architecture must never be considered in isolation from grade II. pool as part of a recreational landscape. This is worth its setting, or considered in opposition to other styles. ‘The provision of swimming pools at the seaside briefly considering in a national context. There is no Other surviving Modern lidos of the period are at is now an absolute necessity; indeed, not only In Britain there was no shortage of strong-minded Broomhill, Ipswich (1938), Hilsea, Portsmouth (1937), owing to the inconvenience of sea bathing, and often witty critics who abhorred ‘international Jubilee Pool, Penzance (1935) Tinside Lido, Plymouth 106 Dean 1983, 37–42 but also the demand for diving facilities. In a 107 d’Enno 1985, 46–7, 106 (1935) Uxbridge, London (1935) and Greenbank Pool modern swimming pool, diving, the attractions 105 Walvin 1978, 140–2 108 d’Enno 1985, 47–8 at Street, Somerset (1937). All except Hilsea are listed of fashion in bathing costumes, refreshment at grade II. A Modern-style pavilion (unlisted) also accommodation, sunbathing and shelters set in graces the end of the pool in Droitwich’s Lido Park garden surroundings are the accompaniments (1935). Of these, the one with the most streamlined of a great show’.104 and International Modern influence is the one at Street, which was not built as a municipal pool but for Those of the inter-war period included some of the workers at the Clarks shoe factory. Significantly, the most spectacular lidos of the period, such as at another pure streamlined design (where the buildings Morecambe (1936) and New Brighton at Wallasey but not the pool survives) was built for Cadbury’s (1934), all of which have been demolished. The workers at Bourneville in 1937. Another non-municipal arcaded café and flanking changing rooms survive and streamlined design of 1933, the Showboat Lido at from the 1938 lido now absorbed into the Atlantis Maidenhead (surviving but much altered), doubled as Water Park in Scarborough. A beacon marks the site a nightclub. of the now-infilled Walpole Bay lido at Margate. None of the buildings remain at the 1930 pool at Tynemouth, Jones would also have been aware that the lido now infilled with rocks and the subject of a local campaign to reopen it. Besides Worthing, where the 101 Engineers could be equally dismissive. Owen Williams, the The Tudor Close Hotel in Rottingdean, extended by the same architect as Saltdean Lido for the Saltdean Estate. superlative engineer of his generation who worked on several 103 The other is the Midland Hotel in Morecambe by Oliver key Modern Movement buildings in Britain, dismissed architects Hill, now restored and which was built to complement the now- This image is taken from one of a series of advertisements for the Saltdean Estate. From the Saltdean Lido Archive. in turn as ‘decoration merchants’ demolished lido by Cross and Sutton 102 Smith 2007, 86-88 and 126-131; Brodie and Winter 2007, 120 104 quoted in Braggs and Haniss 2000, 184 46 47 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido surviving trace in the pre-1914 period of the municipal – designs. Neville was clearly a forward thinking involvement in the design of outdoor resort pools entrepreneur who embraced modernity and had a sources which commenced in this period and became the keen eye for emerging trends in architecture. His defining feature of the inter-war period. By the late grandson, Gary, confirms that having travelled Europe 19th century progressive local authorities in Europe and the States, Neville would have been fully aware Plans for Saltdean Lido and Community Centre and America were making increasing provision of the International Style and the modern facilities Lido plans from the Borough Surveyor’s office, drawn by D J for swimming in public parks in response to public including soda fountains and American-style bars Howe and dated August 1963 demand. Outdoor pools were sited within or designed available at the newest resort hotels and swimming East Sussex Record Office DB/D/136/853 as an integral part of municipal parks from the 1870s. pools of Los Angeles. 111 This, perhaps, explains his Ground floor plans reflect the desire to create better Original plans dated 9/3/1937, given consent by access to the boiler room and oil store and the • Pre-1914. With the exception of Tooting Bec, approach at Saltdean Lido, and why he decided to give the Borough of Brighton on 25/3/1937 under the provision of a single entrance with ticket office from which when first built in the corner of the former the traditionally ‘municipal lido’ model a ‘makeover’, Restriction of Ribbon Development Act of 1935 and the covered way to the lido. They show plans for: 1) common was sheltered from public gaze by an with his privately commissioned resort pool. the Building Byelaws and Town and Country Planning blocking up the entrances to the changing rooms earthen bank (and thus not considered as an Paul Bahn rightly draws attention to the influence (General Interim Development) Order of 1933. from the covered way and replacement of the original integral part of the parkland landscape), pre- of Hollywood, ‘the first in the history of the world windows; 2) the creation of a new entrance to the plant 1914 examples of pools set within parkland which managed to influence virtually every part of room from the covered way; 3) enlarging the windows landscapes, including the earliest examples at 112 the globe with the products of its industry’. Private Plans dated April and May 1937, stamped on the west elevation of the plant room; 4) removal Alexandra Park in London (1875) and Cannon outdoor pools spread around the world from their 30/10/1937 by the Borough of Brighton Building of the window separating the plant room from the oil Hill Park in Birmingham (1873) have been origin in the Hollywood Hills by the mid-1930s, for Inspector’s and Drainage Office store extension; and 5) insertion of new windows on demolished or completely redeveloped. example as observed by the writer J.G. Ballard in his the west elevation to light the staff room, lavatories and 113 These show the lido as completed. • Post-1945. 11 out of 52 pools are sited in public recollections of boyhood in Shanghai. To Neville’s manager’s office. First floor plans show: 1) intended parks, including the grade II listed Pools in the evident astonishment, his Tudor House Hotel, in replacement of windows to east and west elevations; East Sussex Record Office DB/D/113/2091 ‘Plans of Park on the edge of Richmond deer park. neighbouring Rottingdean, had become popular as a and 2) the subdivision of the community room into an lido and community centre’ • The highest proportion (97 out of 203 sites) haunt of Hollywood stars in search of Olde England, activity room to the west and office/committee rooms of open air pools built within parks fall into and the parish church was replicated for the church at to the east all accessed by a lobby with cloakrooms the inter-war period. By the 1930s pools were Forest Lawn cemetery in Los Angeles.114 East Sussex Record Office DB/D/136/ 1093 to the east as well. The drawings also indicate ‘Repair recommended as an integral part of the planning America played a leading role in the development of and renew tubular balustrading’ to the sun terrace. 109 of municipal parks. Of these, 18 comprise sites resort pools and the promotion of swimming in the Plans dated June 1962 for part-filling pool and the with coherent complexes of buildings, pools and inter-war period, a development in which Hollywood conversion of the lido to a library and youth centre. Drawing dated 15.09.1986 by Stuart Leisure Ltd, planned areas for relaxation. played a particularly prominent role. It is therefore Newhaven, showing proposed extension to the interesting to draw parallels between Saltdean Lido’s Plans for Saltdean Lido and Community Centre water flume 2.5 INTERNATIONAL COMPARISONS design and this movement. Indeed, contemporary from the Borough Surveyor’s office, dated November journals describe Saltdean Lido as being in the 1962 Drawing dated March 1987 by Directorate of Developments in Britain were broadly paralleled ‘New Hollywood Style’. The building’s stark bright Technical Services. This shows the discharge of the by those across the Western world. Although this render, crisp lines, and nautical themed rotunda, sit These show plans for: 1) the extension of the central water flume into the east of the pool, the retention has not yet been subject to any systematic study, comfortably alongside the American-inspired resort block to the north for the library, including a hallway of a ‘free swimming area’ along the south side of the the significance of historic open air pools such as swimming pool. In purpose, inspiration and design with access from the east and stairs to a first-floor pool and the creation of a ‘toddlers’ play area to the the Piscine Molitor in Paris (1929) and the Piscine it can be argued that Saltdean Lido is a ‘slice of community room with lavatories to the east; 2) an north accessed by a ramp and slides to the north and Municipale Alfred Nakache in Toulouse (1931-4) has Hollywood’ on the Sussex Coast. extension to the west for a service entrance to the separated from the remainder of the pool by a glass been recognised through official protection. The 1939 library, staff room/kitchen and stairs to first floor fibre island, toadstools and a ‘mushroom fountain’. Cameron Pool at Cameron in West Virginia is one kitchen and restaurant servery; 3) an oil store with example of a site now protected as a historic site by entrance to the south; and 4) converting the plant the US government, which like Saltdean was built with room into a smaller boiler room separated by a a sandy beach and a D-shaped side and an opposing corridor (entailing removal of the fuel store and central diving board placed over the deepest part of switch room) linking the library to the 1938 covered the pool.110 entrance and providing access to the staff room for the No correspondence has been traced between the lido (retained in its old position) and new lavatories developer and architect, despite contact with the (entailing removal of the service hall and stairs) and 111 A well-known example is the enormous Spanish Revival to the south a manager’s office. families of both Jones and Neville. Both buildings Ambassador Hotel which was provided with its own pool strongly suggest, however, that they played an active 112 Bahn 2014, xiv and collaborative role in the design of two pioneering 113 Ballard 2008, 26. There is now no trace of the house or the outdoor pool at Pickfair, the home of Douglas Fairbanks and Mary and decidedly Internationalist – indeed American Pickford, the first in Hollywood to be provided with its own pool. Ealing Village Pool, North Ealing, which is listed at Grade II, 109 Pettigrew 1937 was built for actors and staff at its film studios. For the American 110 See www.cameronwv.com/swimmingpool.htm accessed 20 style pool at Maidenhead (mostly demolished) see Law 2009 June 2015 114 Neville 1959e, 22–3

48 49 TEMPLE TO THE SUN: The history & significance of Saltdean Lido

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