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The Eagle 1860 (Michaelmas)

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The Eagle 1860 (Michaelmas) THE EA G LE. .A. FORTNIGHT IN IRELA.ND. EVER since the days of Troy travellers seem to have believed their adventures to be the most interesting topic under the sun. Whether they be justified in this belief is no matter of mine, but while Homer has deemed the wanderings of Ulysses worthy of his mighty Muse, while the travels of the pious but loquacious JEneas are known to have furnished Virgil with materials for a whole JEneid, and Dino with the means of spending a most de­ lightful evening ; I consider that the selection of my subject " A Fortnight in Ireland" needs no apology. Our first impressions of Ireland as we neared Kingstown '�ere most pleasing : even the tortures of ten hours sea­ sIckness c ould not blind us to the fact that we saw one �f the fai�'est scenes of earth. On our left Wicklow lIead hes basklllg' in the ' morning sun, nearer to us with more sombre shade Bray Head broods, like some sea-monster, over the d . �ep, while it shelters the peaceful and retiring bay ?� KIlhney, called the Sorento of Ireland, as its more ambltlOus neighbour, "Dublin Bay," has been called " The VOL. n. B £ A Fo rtn£r;ht in Ireland. A . F01·tnigltt in I1·eland. 3 make a IriRh Bay of Naples," certainly there never seemed to me sing with a dry throat, and so altogether we a sweeter spot than Killiney, which can for Dublin. Though in pleasant day of it; and then leave to me to be the finest city, two Sortiri taciturn lapidcm, et sub crespite condi. this metropolis seemed three only excepted in Great Britain, I am not going However, the bright harbour of Kingstown lies before us, or cathedrals, ceme­ to attempt a description of its churches, so without casting more than a glance northward, where the tomb of O'Connell crowned teries' (in one of which " Ireland's Eye," the scene of the Kirwan Murder, is seen with fresh flowers is exposed to view).; " The Phaynix," daily Il my muse, for s a Street," &c., must not detal Like a gloomy t in "Sackville for On the emerald main. all these things written in the book of Black are not advice to my the enliahtenment of benighted tourists ? My We stagger down to the cabin, and soon reappear, carpet­ /J an Irish Car, tell the driver to bag in hand, and in ten minutes find ourselves on Irish readers is to get on to to all "the points of interest"-you are safe to land. And then begins a contest to represent which would drive you all be in the Phaynix in ten minutes-to ask questions require tile Muse of a Homer, or Chancellor's English a mighty controversy about the Medallist, the Imagination of a "Time's Correspondent," day and finally to have fare, and if you have had a dull day you may as well or an "Our own Artist" of the Illustrated London News. evident that Ireland is not the For. no sooner do we touch Irish ground than go home again, for it is country for you, in fact that you do not know: what fun is. feeling of being Juvenum manus emicat ardens. Well do I remember the delightful on an Irish Car for the first time, and how this pleasure Our carpet-bag flieth this way, our hat-box vanisheth was slightly diminished by J�ly dependent legs coming into into thin air, and when giddy from exertion after a rough rather violent contact with a lamp-post at the first corner­ passage, we gain the support of a post, we at length see how the driver turned round to point out the superiority our hat-box, two hundred yards distant from us in the of the Irish Car to all "Pathent Safeties ;" for, said he, middle of a muddy road with a small urchin seated on " W as'nt I run away wid in the Phaynix, (everything it, who no sooner sees us than he is on his legs shouting happens in 'the PhaynL"'{') the baste being frightened by "dis way yer amher-lave the jintleman alone Pat­ rayson of the arthillery ; and when we came to the first dis way to de Erin-go bragh hotel yer amher," mean­ sthrate sure did'nt the jintleman jump off and holt to while my carpet-bag has received the last strap necessary the lamp-post, widout a sctatch on his body. Och 'tis to fasten it irrevocably to an "Irish Jaunting Car," the an ilighant vayicle intoirely, is the Oirish Car." I well drivel' of which assures me he is the owner of " The most remember how the rogue lauahed and told me I'd make ilighant car in the Cety Dooblin." Of course, as my an Irishman yet, when I sugges�ed that so active a gentleman luggage has been secured, I have nothing to do but to must have �een a lamp-lighter by trade-and how great follow it, so off we go, my erratic hat-box having been a wag .1. belIeved myself, and thought I would not mind regained by the display of a sixpence, after all attempts ev�n glvmg an extra tip to so discriminating a driver. at recapturing it by giving chase had proved useless. Stlll better do I remember how my scarcely quieted fears As there is but little to see in Kingstown we only wait were roused t? perfect horror by the company of a dragoon 10nO" enough to examine its grand harbollr, and to have who was l'l. dmg a "wicked baste" along side of me. the sai. a q�iet sail to Dalkey Isl�nd,. which, �ith its martello tow.er �w d baste kicked out within an inch of my and single farm-house IS stIll, I belIeve, governed by ItS ear knees." How at length he was backed close up me b own king. Here we make our first acquaintance with an � . l the man of war who bestrode him, that the Irish hoax in the shape of the celebr�ted "Rocking Stone," r�vr �lght cut him across with his whip, and how relieved which is simply a large stone balancmg between two ledges I e � w len I saw the baste go offinto a canter, the carman of rock, and worn into an oval shape by the beating of :sul'ln&, m.e that "the crayture the souldier was on had the waves. However, the boatmen sing us songs all the Ore VIce lJ1 her than any in Dooblin--which was saying way home, having previously informed us that no Irishman a great deal." All this I remember, but o'er the rest fond B2 4 A Fo rtnight in ITeland. A Fortnigld in Ireland. 5 memory draws a veil : suffice it to say, that when I came At the entrance of the Gap is Kate Kearney's Cottage : to pay the fare, I came to these conclusions : the present Kate is a tall and formidable woman in ap­ pearance : at her door the weary traveller may refresh (i) I am not yet an Irishman. himself with 'whiskey and goat's milk, an odious and (ii) There is no instance known of an Irish car-driver headache-engendering mixture as I can testify. I merely put who has not a wife and ten-at least-gossoons to maintain. my lips to the cup and then put down one shilling in reward, (iii) It is rather aggravating after paying twice the r�ght for which I was regarded with so indignant a stare from fare, to be told in an insinuating voice that the dnver Kate Keamey that I fled. Whether it was the smallness would like "to dhrink yer arnher's health in a glass of of my donation or of my potation that gave offence I know the rale Oirish Whisky." not. On leaving this bower of beauty our guide began to cut himself a stout stick, and on enquiry told us it was Will the reader be surprised to hear that after being not safe to walk through the Gap without a stick to drive treated in this heartless manner I sighed for the mountains? offthe beggars. "A pretty pass we've come to," thought I; "There at least," cried I, " shall I find honesty ;" there, and so we had in more senses of the word than one. For as the Poet has it, the humble peasant the next moment we found a bugler by our side, who assured us we could not hear the echoes to advantage . Cheerful at morn awakes from short repose, without his bugle. Then half-a-dozen girls with more Breathes the keen air, and carols as he goes : whiskey and goat's milk; then a blind fiddler, who our With patient angle trolls the flnny deep ; And drives his venturous plough-share to the steep. guide told us was once "the best man," (i. e. the best * • * * * * jiglding man) in Killamey-till one day he worked so At night returning, every labour sped, hard in a potatoe field that the perspiration got into his He sits him down, the Monarch of a shed: eyes and blinded him. * * * * * * Whence followed moral reflections on the hardship of And haply too, some pilgrim thither led, having to work ; our guide telling us that he got his living With many a tale repays the nightly bed ! as a Guide in the summer months and did nothing all winter.
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