Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/12-14 Registrar of Newspapers Licenced to post without prepayment for India under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-506/12-14 Publication: 15th & 28th of every month Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS CHENNAI INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • Attention-drawing calendar • A doyen of Philately • What’s in street names? • What ails TN cricket?

Vol. XXIII No. 20 MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014

If Chennai is to be 52 places for the

G Can we recognise that the footpath is a necessity for a tourist walking and easy access traveller in 2014 and therefore cannot be encroached upon? (according to the New York Times) destination... G Can we, while designing our buildings, respect the Witness a city in transformation, glimpse exotic animals, neighbours’ space and also explore the past and enjoy that beach before the crowds. Chennai, in the State of Tamil Nadu (and formerly ensure that those who “known as Madras), was long considered the gateway to are otherwise abled can 1. Cape Town, 26. Chennai, India popular South Indian tourist destinations like Kerala but South Africa 27. Seychelles easily gain access to our 2. Christchurch, 28. Krabi, Thailand was overlooked as an attraction itself. It is, however, a na- buildings? tional cultural capital and home to several dance and mu- New Zealand 29. Aspen, Colo. G Can we have a law to pro- 3. North Coast, California 30. Highlands, Iceland sic schools like Kalakshetra for dance and the Music Acad- 4. Albanian Coast 31. Umea, Sweden emy for Carnatic South Indian music, which both regularly tect heritage buildings? After all, one of the reasons 5. Downtown Los Angeles 32. Xishuangbanna, China hold performances around town. There are also historic 6. Namibia 33. Andermatt, Switzerland sites aplenty, including the Kapaleeswarar Temple, built in that Chennai has made it to 7. Ecuador 34. Indianapolis the name of the Hindu god Shiva. Fresh buzz makes this the list is the presence of 8. Quang Binh, Vietnam 35. Mekong River city especially enticing: Several major hotels including the historic places. 9. Perth, Australia 36. Athens 10. Rotterdam, 37. Barahona, Park Hyatt have recently opened, and there is a slew of G Lastly, Chennai ranked new and trendy clubs, boutiques and restaurants, including number one on another the Netherlands Dominican Republic Ottimo for excellent pizzas. 11. Taiwan 38. Arctic Circle scale just a few weeks ago – 12. Frankfurt, Germany 39. Dar es Salaam, ” the national garbage cre- 13. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Tanzania ation index. That does not 14. Fernando de Noronha, 40. Downtown Atlanta hat is the entry in The New sound good for a city rank- G Brazil 41. Nozawa Onsen, Japan TYork Times against Chen- by A Special ing 26th internationally 15. Nashville, Tenn. 42. Subotica, Serbia nai, citing the reasons for it to Correspondent among tourist destinations, 16. Scotland 43. Elsinore, Denmark make it to the annual list of top does it? 17. Calgary, Alberta 44. Cartmel, England 52 travel destinations in the 18. Ishigaki, Japan 45. Nepal world. Our humble Madras that we could do to make that 19. Laikipia Plateau, Kenya 46. Vienna This is just a first cut is Chennai rubs shoulders with happen. 20. Yogyakarta, Indonesia 47. Siem Reap, Cambodia wish list. We are sure our exotic locales such as Cape 21. Tahoe, Calif. 48. Varazdin, Croatia G Cut the poster and cutout readers will have a lot more. If Town and Rio de Janeiro. 22. Yorkshire, England 49. St. Petersburg, Fla. culture out. Dirty walls and all these fall into place, what And in case you thought it 23. Dubai 50. Belize cluttered footpaths do not more can we want in this, our 24. The Vatican 51. New Caledonia came in last, here is another make for a good city. city? 25. Uruguayan Riviera 52. Niagara Falls, N.Y. surprise – Chennai ranked a healthy 26 and, what’s more, G Manage our traffic better. was the only city from India. Let us resolve to respect Move over snooty Delhi, traffic laws, observe lane moneyed Mumbai, and bump- discipline and give pedes- tious Bengaluru. trians their space. Is the Metrorail Not all the information is G Be more polite and display accurate as can be seen, after all less of road rage no matter the Music Academy and Kalak- how tempting it is. And slowing down? shetra are not itinerant impre- while we are about it, can sarios. But it cannot be denied we honk a little less? he news from the Chennai gence being done at the time of nancial year of 2014/15. The that Chennai is a national G Can we have more public cultural capital – with religious toilets so that our populace TMetrorail Limited (CMRL) short-listing. project was believed to be pro- front is not encouraging. It is gressing according to schedule festivals, art shows, literary need not relieve themselves At the time of launch in now firmly established that the till September last year when events, music and dance in the open. And, yes, can 2008, it was announced that project may be delayed along the first rumours began surfac- programmes and, above all, people stop spitting? the elevated sections of the theatre. If only the weather was various stretches by anywhere ing that all was not well. G Can we understand that the between three months and over somewhat pleasanter! But It is learnt that while work right to silence is one of the a year. Which means the city then nothing can be done on tracks and viaducts is going fundamental rights? Can we will have to wait till 2016 at the G by A Special about that. on as scheduled, these being therefore tone down the least before this much-touted, Correspondent contracted out to big names in Having said that, and having television and radio and, and much-needed, alternative the world of engineering, the agreed that Chennai admittedly more important, avoid high public transport system be- deserves this pat on the construction of stations, signals decibel speakers at public comes functional. The reasons project would be completed by back, let us resolve to make it a and other equipment on the spaces? And, in the context, are the usual – the bureaucracy, mid-2014 and the entire better city and perhaps aspire to elevated lines will not be can we avoid shouting slowness in execution, and the project, including the under- be Number One on the list. while speaking over cell tender system for selection of ground portions, would be op- And here are some things phones? vendors without much due-dili- erational by the end of the fi- (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014 Is Metrorail slowing down? Fault lines on a flyover fortnight ago The Man it involved blocking one lane at was a gentleman of full habit. (Continued from page 1) was the one responsible for the Afrom Madras Musings a time, and on the blocked lane If he bulged at all odd spots, airport line. With repeated wrote about the Royapettah a series of small metal humps his wallet bulged even more. (Continued from page 1) delays, CMRL issued notices for clock tower roundabout and were placed. A barricade was The priest arrived with the completed in time. With the lapsed deadlines and, finally, many of you of the MM con- erected at the entrance to the plate and the fat man depos- rolling stock already in place, terminated the contract. A new gregation under the pontificate flyover, which further acted as ited a hundred rupee note on of the Chief were kind enough a deterrent to those wanting to it. MMM, then being a stu- Metrorail, it is learnt, is keen on contractor is yet to be identi- to express your appreciation. take that lane to go across. But dent, merely smiled at the at least doing a test run. But the fied, five months after work Fifteen days later, MMM once did that prevent our two- priest. Imagine MMM’s sur- Commissioner of Railway came to a halt. again writes of Royapettah, wheeler friends from hoping prise when a large garland was Safety, whose permission is The latest development con- this time about its flyover. that they could reach the other placed around his neck, bene- required, has not agreed to such Though glorified by that name, side? They simply began using dictions were sung in full- cerns the underground stations. trials being undertaken without it is nothing but a narrow strip the lane that was open for traf- throated voice and vermillion The contractor in charge of this the rest of the equipment being of elevated road with two fic from the opposite direction. applied on his forehead. The had applied as early as 2012 for in place. lanes, one for each direction of Whenever they espied a par- priest then beamed at the busi- an extension of 18 months from traffic. The service lanes below ticularly large vehicle coming nessman and, pointing at The problem, it is under- the original planned comple- are eternally in a state of being their way, they would duck MMM, said that he was ex- stood, lies with the contractors tion date of 2015. CMRL it is dug up and so have long been into the closed lane, wait for tremely happy that he, the responsible for these allied learnt, has agreed to an exten- given up as useless. Conse- the vehicle to pass and then get businessman, had brought his activities. The construction sion of ten months, which any- quently, there is heavy load on back. In effect, a single lane on (the businessman’s) son to the industry is currently undergoing way puts the completion date the flyover, all the time. the flyover was handling two- temple. “Nothing like begin- way traffic. A week later, the ning our good traditions early, a severe financial crisis and, somewhere in 2016. The rea- Early one morning, resi- up lane was opened and work is it not”? asked the priest in consequent to this, the contrac- sons given by the contractor in- dents who live along the began on the down lane. The chatty vein. He then patted tors who have been entrusted clude difficulty in tunnelling, flyover were woken up to a tre- chaos simply shifted from left MMM on the head. The busi- the civil engineering tasks are delays in land acquisition, and mendous sound, followed by to right. nessman was just turning a going through lean times. At shortage of space, especially in the sickening noise of crunch- rather bright shade of purple least one of these contracting the Mount Road area. None of ing metal. It was a collision in- So what, you ask. And when MMM decided to leave, volving a couple of two-wheel- MMM can hear most of you garland and all. companies has thrown up its these is a new problem and ers, both being in the wrong muttering that this story ought hands, stating that payments surely all of them stared in the lanes. Fortunately there was to have never been allowed in That was, as MMM said, due to it are in arrears and, face of any contractor who no loss of life or limb. After print. MMM has lost it, you several years ago and no doubt therefore, salaries to its staff wanted to take up the job. Yet have remained unpaid for three another reason highlighted by months. The contractor com- the same contractor points at pany has accused CMRL of not the inept fashion in which our SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY settling bills for several addi- underground utilities are laid. It tional works undertaken by it has become impossible to locate and has cited this as the reason telephone and electrical cables for its finance crunch. CMRL at the places they were origi- trading a couple of filthy declare, and so has the Chief. the purchasing power of a abuses, the two who tried to But you don’t know the end of hundred rupees has drastically has, however, issued show- nally meant to be, thereby tango but became tangled it as yet. come down despite the best cause notice to the contractor throwing tunnelling work out of parted ways. Royapettah went efforts of Chief’s friend and is now deliberating on can- gear. back to its routine. Last week, a bus made bold who promised to preserve celling the contract. If this to do the same thing. The metal Surely the identification of Bharat Insurance Building comes to pass, it means a Such collisions are par for barricade was pushed to a side and convert it into an art contractors requires some the course. Two-wheeler rid- and bus made the ascent, egged further delay as a new contrac- gallery. But be that as it may, background checks on their ers repeatedly find their way on by passengers, conductor tor will have to be identified the priests too need to make a capabilities? Were any techni- blocked by slow-moving ve- and driver. Halfway up, a metal through the usual process living and every little bit cal assessments done before the hicles and being the optimists hump caved in and there was of tendering, subject to all counts. contracts were awarded? Who they are, keep trying to move no way the bus could cross. bureaucratic procedures and ahead by darting into the lane Have you ever seen a bus re- That times were bad, how- is to blame for all this? And processes. meant for oncoming vehicles. verse down a flyover? MMM ever, came home to MMM why are we, as taxpayers, The major risk here is that of has, and let him tell you it is not rather strongly recently when Yet another contractor footing the bill for delays that a vehicle suddenly appearing for the faint-hearted. he visited the same temple. At threw up his hands as early as have been caused by such from the opposite side neces- the altar of the Goddess, three August 2013. This contractor bungling? sitating a sudden zig, which priests stood and, somewhat works provided the party of Mammon worship like vendors attracting custom the other part zags in coopera- to their wares, were outdoing SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS tion. The problem occurs hese are tough times and each other in beckoning devo- G Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has when the zig party zags and the TThe Man from Madras tees. MMM gave his offering been priced at Rs.5 a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. zag party also zags or when the Musings being tough gets going to the one who smiled the Please make out your cheque only to CHENNAI HERITAGE and zag party zigs and so does the – to temples. One of his most, whereupon the others send it, together with the COUPON, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, zig party. You get the picture. favourites is the shrine where openly cursed their fate and Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 the Goddess took the form of a said that the smiling priest had or C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS PVT. LTD., 62/63, In such instances, there is peacock to worship the Lord. the luck of the devil. Such is GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 006. no option but to suffer The priests here are an open life. An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part collisions, rise, check for book, at least as far as MMM is of our costs. Corporate support and YOUR support will continue to injuries, and heap choice concerned. A rupee coin on the insults and rebukes on each be essential for Chennai Heritage and Madras Musings to play a offertory plate will elicit a pinch Tailpiece greater role in creating awareness about the city, its heritage and its other. But MMM did say that of vermillion and a surly look, environment. We therefore look forward to your sending us your these two-wheeler users were two rupees a grunt and a pinch contributions IN ADDITION TO your subscriptions. optimists, did he not? And so of vermillion, five rupees a he Man from Madras If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support despite a number of these smile, a flower and a pinch of T Musings is still chuckling. from those of you who have already made contributions, and if many zigzag attempts ending up in vermillion, ten rupees a grin, a Apparently, a real estate firm more supporters join the bandwagon, we will not only be able to zigzigs and zagzags, there is blessing, and all of the above. of the city hired an actress as keep Madras Musings going, but also be able to continue always the belief that such Rupees fifty, they say, means a its promoter-model and put up awareness-building exercises on on-going projects as well as things happen to others and so pouch of vermillion. But of that a large hoarding on the out- undertake one or two more such exercises. why not try and get ahead one MMM knows not. skirts, prominently featuring Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION more time? her face. Under it was the cap- What happens when you tion, “One thousand satisfied TO YOUR SUBSCRIPTIONS. If, say, you send in a cheque for Last fortnight, the authori- give a hundred rupees is well customers.” The actress did Rs.500, we will treat Rs.100 of it towards subscription to Madras ties embarked on some urgent known to MMM. This hap- not participate in the laughter Musings for 2013-14 and the remaining Rs.400 as contribution repair work on the flyover. At pened several years ago when with which this was greeted. towards the causes Chennai Heritage espouses. the end of the exercise, none, MMM, then a demure new- Last week, the hoarding was We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those including MMM, was the comer from Delhi, waited at removed. newcomers who want to receive copies, sending in their wiser as to what work was ac- the altar. Just ahead of him, and subscriptions. tually done. Whatever it was, blocking most of MMM’s view, – MMM – The Editor February 1-15, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 Differing views on trees Welcome progress he renovation of pave- am sorry for the typographical errors of the botanical names cytosine, a psychedelically, but toxic chemical Carol trees. It is I(MM, January 16th). However, Tamarindus indica is the listed under ‘Food and plants that can be toxic to birds.’ T ments on Conran Smith correct botanical name and not Tamarindus indicus, as stated by Road, Gopalapuram, started reader Raman. Prof K.N. Rao, who wrote in Madras Musings K.V.S. Krishna several weeks ago. Work on the and the Wikipedia, as well as my reference book titled Dictionary [email protected] project, which took place by fits of Economic Plants in India (ICAR), indicate concurrence. EDITOR’S NOTE: Perhaps readers Krishna (kvskrishna@ and starts, has shown some Not only are the seeds of the Carol tree (Erythrina) not eaten gmail.com) and Raman ([email protected]) would like to progress, though it’s yet to reach by birds, rodents and squirrels, but its roots damaged the flats continue this discussion directly. finality. main concrete water tank, not once but twice. I wrote about this hoping that our bitter experience will help those who plan * * * Residents as well as passers- to plant trees in and around their flats, or as avenue trees. his is a negative way of looking at trees (MM, January 16th). by are now able to walk long However reader Raman writes: “If E.Variegata pushed its roots TAny tree will put forward its roots towards a water source. stretches on a firm, even into the water reservoir is it the tree’s fault? I have not Instead of giving suggestions it is not good to advise NOT to surface. The height of the mentioned anything about a water reservoir in my paper. plant a tree. platform is not such that it is Thirdly, the tree is notorious for its toxicity. Erythrina is a legume that enriches the soil and is nectar daunting. The so-called ramps I have also mentioned in my article, in passing, the dangers source for several large and medium birds. descending right from the gates of growing the Indian Skunk Tree. A few days back I had some D. Narasimhan of high-rise buildings and shop- visitors and the first thing they said was, “Your flats have a foul Associate Professor, Department of Botany odour. Why are your flat owners growing these foul odour trees? Centre for Floristic Research, Madras Christian College ping outlets are gone, with some Pauline Deborah has written, “The Skunk Tree Sterculius level surface made available in Tambaram, Chennai foetida is derived from the Latin Sterculius meaning ‘dung or * * * the reconstruction. Some of the manure’ and foetida refers to the foul smell emitted by the tree. electric junction boxes that any birds visit the nectar-rich Erythrina flowers. There Again, your reader says, “Referring to P.longifolia as Asoka Mfore, this is not ‘a non-preferred tree’ by local fauna. The were athwart the pathway have is unfortunate. In this connection, I asked a former director of root issue presented by the writer (MM, January 1st) is a matter been re-aligned and are along- CPCRI (who was its director for 13 years), “Do you know what of concern. Primarily we have to check the nearness of the tree side the compound walls, a Mast Tree is? In Tamil it is known as nettlingam? He had no to the structure. Tree roots do penetrate sumps in some cases. parallel to the road. Even where answer. But when I asked him, “Do you know what a Asoka These are very thin feeder roots. The quantity of 100 kg roots some side roads meet the main tree is? he said, “Oh yes, it is P.longifolia. I asked a similar penetrating inside a sump only reflects on the poor quality of road, the raised pavement is question to an FAO spice expert. He had no answer till I asked material used in the construction. there, with ramps created on him, “Do you know what a Asoka tree is? to which he said it is Dadaps are weak trees and are easily blown away by winds. P.longifolia. either side for vehicles to They cannot have a destructive root system unless the tree in Saraca asoca is the Asoka tree and is native to India. It is now negotiate these junctions. question was severely pruned many times over the years, grown all over the world. Buddha was said to be born beneath it allowing more root proliferation. Planting depth at the initial Though the work is yet to be and, therefore, it is auspicious. Another species, S. declinata, stages has the foremost effect on future depth of roots and root- finished, the renovation project native to Java, is also grown in India. However, Wikipedia says, related issues. This does not mean that Erythrina trees are to be is promising. We trust the “Other trees are called ‘Asoka tree’.” A popular tree known as completely avoided in avenue planting. That seems biased. ‘false Asoka tree’, or even as ‘Asoka tree’, is Polyalthia longifolia Regarding Sterculia foetida, the tree flowers in February-March concretised surface of the plat- and is cultivated to resemble the growth pattern of erect pillar- form won’t be dug up all too and matures into a fruit after 11 months. Other trees have the like Mediterranean cypress trees. It is a popular park and garden same issue of fruits falling when ripe. The unpleasant odour is soon to repair any faulty service tree much used for landscaping in the Indian sub-continent. only when flowering happens once a year, and that too for a lines. To the credit of the The Dispensatory of the United States of America (1918) and fortnight. authorities, some co-ordinated other tomes say Erythrina, the bark of the Australian species of This is a very fast growing tree with equally-distributed work with electricity and this genus, Erythrina broteroi, is said to contain an alkaloid, branches. It is sturdy and does not fall in a storm even if it telephone departments and erythrinine, while the Mexican species, Erythrina coralloides DC. reaches great heights. It has graceful foliage, yields itself for other service providers appears bears poisonous seeds in which Altamirano has found erythroi- nesting, and is maintenance-free. to have been done. dine, a powerful paralyzant of the motor system, erythroresin and There are issues with all trees for that matter. People should an emetic, coralin and erythric acid. This extract has been not treat their own experiences as a matter of policy applicable While the created pavement suggested as a substitue for curare. in general. is indeed a good facility, Erythrina is grown all over the world and is not exclusive to K . Harish the utterly thoughtless park- India. There are over 130 varieties. Erythrina Americana has [email protected] ing of two-wheelers and cars and other impediments created by humans are worrisome. C.G. Rishikesh Festivals in changing times A5 Madhurima 32, Conran Smith Road Gopalapuram s the Sun moves into the mirror would be placed along- cow – decorated with painted changes in the character of fes- Chennai 600 086 A‘Makara’ phase, or Capri- side this paraphernalia on the horns, baubles and finery – for tivals, thus adding a boost to the corn Zodiac, in the astral world, terrace in a vantage position to the usual collection spree! sagging economy. Quality the need Makara Sankranti celebrations receive and reflect the full rays Of late, there appears to be a In the past, the ‘Aadi’ phase begin in the plains of India. The of the bright morning sun. As quaint urbanisation of Pongal in July was considered inauspi- oncrete or bitumen for our festival is celebrated under the vessel, bedecked with a festivities especially in Chennai. cious for acquiring anything for Croads (MM, January 16th) various names and through fresh turmeric sapling round its Retail outlets and departmental the household or for buying is not exactly the question. numerous variations in all parts neck, brims over with its froth- stores are whipping up a new- jewels or textiles. The imagina- Who lays it, who supervises it, of the country. ing contents, an idyllic Pongal found euphoria which has re- tive retailers made capital out of what proportion of bitumen or this negative situation by start- cement, stones etc. has been In Tamil Nadu, in its Pongal garb, the festivities are a time of ing the ‘Aadi thallupadi’ (Aadi used to what thickness, how discounts) a few years ago. To- heavy a roller has been used, are thanksgiving to the Sun God for G by V. Kalidas a rich harvest and an earnest day, the ‘Aadi Season’ is no obviously of prime importance. longer considered a low season! Roads in countries with much prayer for a bountiful produce in the New year. On the contrary, Aadi sales heavier rainfall, more heat and generate brisk business! In recent years, the Pongal more traffic, such as Thailand scenario is happily conjured up sulted in heavy shopping activi- Akshaya Thrithiya was a flavour (pun intended) in and Malaysia, don’t deteriorate and it generates triumphant ties far beyond what prevailed low-profile event in the past. Chennai has increasingly over- as quickly as our roads do cries of “Pongalo Pongal”! in the more subdued past! Also, Enterprising jewellers in the taken the ‘Sankranti’ aspect. because quality and account- On the following morning, hotels and restaurants are going city, along with World Gold Earlier every home in the city ability are the main criteria termed ‘Kanu Pongal’ ( not to to town on special Pongal offers Council, have since many years would conduct its own modest there. be confused with ‘Kaanum and attractive options on eating now given it a new sheen pooja to the Sun God with an Pongal’), a variety of rice-mixes out and merry-making! through intensive sales promo- Prem Chandran John offering of sweet (in a pongal is placed on a large leaf on the While these social changes tion efforts backed by imagina- 10, 32nd Cross Street special kind of heavy metal terrace for birds to feast on – a are welcome, it is interesting to Besant Nagar tive and persuasive advertsing. vessel – vengalam or bronze observe that the advent of high- Chennai 600 090 practice perpetuating a harmo- The movement has gained uruli – to be precise) along with nious communion with Nature. flying retail outlets, shopping a full-length sugar-cane bam- The ubiquitous milkman malls and hyper stores has boo and other pooja items. A would come around with his brought about perceptible (Continued on page 9) 4 MADRAS MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014 February 1-15, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 An attention-drawing calendar that focusses on restoration of an ancient mural he most interesting calendar Madras Musings received this year was one from TNQ The images presented are from the Yuddha Kandam – the Book of War – of the Ramayana. and taken Rama’s wife Sita hostage. The story concludes with Rama’s ascent to the throne of The digitisation process started with photographing every section of the mural using an TBooks & Journals (www.tnq.co.in), a publisher of scientific books. The calendar is based This part of the epic is painted on the central square of the ceiling and it constitutes the only part Ayodhya, the kingdom from which he has been exiled. 80-megapixel field camera. The images were then traced both on paper and on a computer using on the work by M.V. Bhaskar and his team who are working on a project to restore the murals of the 17th Century murals that survives. The other sections of the Ramayana, painted on the ceiling In the three-part folio of each month, the main image is of the original but substantially damaged a touchpad and stylus. Both outputs were combined to create the master drawings. in a temple in Chengam, Tamil Nadu. The introduction to the calendar narrates the story of the of the aisles of the forecourt, are lost. mural. The transluscent overlay is a line drawing that includes the missing parts. An inset on the project it is working on: Reconstructing the Ramayana. facing page shows the same drawing in flat colour, as was characteristic of these murals. These images represent a part of a three-year project to digitally restore these mural paintings The surviving part of the painted narrative begins with the warrior prince Rama, his brother The reconstruction effort is a collaboration between the illustrators at TNQ and a traditional in their entirety. G Each month of this 2014 calendar depicts a scene from the Indian epic Ramayana, as Lakshmana, and their army of monkeys crossing the ocean to Lanka where they receive assistance painter who is well-versed in the Ramayana narrative. His medium is cloth and he uses a centuries- The progress of the project can be tracked at www.chengammurals.org painted on the ceiling of the forecourt of the temple at Chengam, a small historic town that is from Vibhishana in defeating his elder brother, the ten-headed demon Ravana, who has kidnapped old resist-dye technique called kalamkari. midway between Chennai and Bengaluru.

Lakshmana and Hanuman look at Rama with shock, as his reunion with Sita turns into a confrontation. Rama doubts Sita’s fidelity and refuses to accept her. The monkeys are unable to interrupt Ravana, so they attack his wife Mandodhari. She is seen being disrobed and tortured in the picture. Her cries to Ravana In response, Sita proposes to ‘bathe in fire’ – if she is ‘pure’, the fire god will spare her. to come to her rescue force him to abandon his fire sacrifice, paving the way for the final confrontation between Rama and Ravana. ... that Forgie built A doyen of Philately t is not often that we have had with the Indian Bank in Forgie also had a vision of among the citizens of Chen- Chennai in 1948. His job took helping the nearby villagers en- I nai someone who was nationally him to Bombay in 1950 which hance their skills in gardening, acclaimed as an authority in his was then, as now, the capital of agriculture, handicrafts and cot- chosen field of interest and who philately in India. He made tage industry. Camp Tonakela had often served as the ‘National friends with the well-known was to act as the support centre Commissioner for India’ (some- philatelists of that era in for these villagers who were in- thing like the captain of an In- Bombay, like J.N. Cooper, R.F. terested in developing their dian team) at international Shroff, R. Wadia and Dhirubhai skills. competitions held in his field in Mehta. He learnt from them all Now, in its 75th year, Camp capital cities abroad. One such the subtleties and refinements of Tonakela continues to enthrall rare person was Madan Mohan ‘philately’ (as different from Image of 1854 Lithograph which Madan Bhai was an expert on. nature lovers who enjoy the Das, the doyen of philately in mere ‘stamp collecting’). He Madan Mohan Das beauty and mystery it offers. Wallace Forgie; and the camp he developed. Chennai. In his passing away last Camp Tonakela offers 15 acres month at the age of 90, philat- of greenery with lots of trees and is at Camp Tawingo in Canada. 1967). Camp Tawningo used to elists in Chennai have lost their As a boy he often went to the handstruck stamps embossed on shrubs, a small pond and a cov- Camp Tawingo was founded by send annual donations to Camp leader, who had been a source of ered swimming pool, all within Jack Pearse, the former director Tonakela. harbour with his father. There, G by G. Ram Mohan sealing wax, wax wafers, inspiration and guidance to in the dust bins in the offices and handstruck markings applied di- its compound . There are 24 of the YMCA Camp On-da-da- Forgie came to India as part them for the past 50 years. tents, adequate sanitation facili- waks operated by the Ottawa outside, he would see used postal rectly on letters, embossments of YMCA outreach but became Philately (or ‘stamp collec- ties and a kitchen with utensils YMCA. Apparently, Wally envelopes from all over the made on paper and so on. The 1873-84 cancellations. an admirer of Indian culture and tion’ in layman’s terminology) world, with colourful stamps af- soon developed special thematic East India Company, during the for the campers to use. Forgie founded that camp as religion which were much more has been often described as the fixed on them. He started col- collections of his own. latter part of 18th Century and one die to another. Madan Bhai’s To get to Tonakela, take the well. Dissatisfied with their camp integrated into people’s lives. He ‘king of hobbies and the hobby lecting them, and soon it became He first developed an interest the first half of 19th Century, expertise in the field was such New Avadi Road from Poona- location on Black Bay just out- left the Y and began this mission of kings’. Madan Mohan Das, or an all-absorbing hobby. Then, in collectiing stamps known as used such items to serve the that he could detect the die of malle High Road opposite side of Ottawa, Wally suddenly on his own with support from ‘Madan Bhai’ as he was affec- quite by accident, he came ‘Indian Classics’ – a term used to same purpose as printed postage any stamp by studying the mi- Pachaiyappa’s College. Just after one day packed up some gear, camps in Canada. allace Forgie, a Cana- which too means not for self. got on the train in Ottawa, got tionately called by his admirers, across a Varadaraja Chettiar, an describe early issues of stamps stamps, before actual postage nutest details that would not be passing the Dunlop factory on Wally Forgie was “a kindly Wdian, came to Madras to Food for thought indeed! off in Pembroke and biked along was the uncrowned king of phi- enthusiastic philatelist from and rare stamps over 150 years stamps came into use in 1854. perceptible to an untrained eye. New Avadi Road, there is a man with a lot of integrity and a work with the Madras chapter of Forgie, with his vast experi- rough roads, trails and through lately in Chennai. He was from a Nellikkuppam, who had been old. It was, obviously, very diffi- Here again Madan Bhai suc- He collected specimens of vari- black topped road on the left desire to help and uplift persons the YMCA as its Secretary. ence in outdoor camping, felt the bush till he came to a beauti- Gujarati business family, origi- tutored in the intricacies of phi- cult to come across material for ceeded in collecting many of the ous die casts reflecting different near the Ambedkar statue. This he worked with and worked for Though he retired in 1936, he that city-folk needed to be en- ful stand of Red Pine trees on a nally from Surat, that had settled lately by an Englishman then such a collection. But Madan rarest of rare specimens. variations. road follows the tank bund until without regard to religion, caste, in Tamil Nadu over three cen- stayed on in Madras to devote couraged to enjoy camping. In bluff overlooking a large lake. employed in the Parry’s Bhai scoured the market with Madan Bhai then took up a Over the decades, Madan a temple is reached outside etc. in the finest tradition of the turies ago. The family was ini- his life to working with under- 1946, 15 acres of land was ac- “Here,” said Wally, “we will Confectionary factory in such vigour and enthusiasm that deep study of the lithography of Bhai won many gold medals for Aiyappakkam village. Turn right YMCA,” a Canadian collegian tially based in Srirangam and was privileged youngsters. quired in Avadi by the Camp make a camp!” And he did, Nellikkuppam. Chettiar would he soon had a sizeable collection early Indian stamps. Lithography his collections of classics, postal at this point and follow the track writes. Another collegian recalls, known for the gifts and endow- Two years after his retire- Tonakela Association. The founding Camp On-Da-Da- visit young Madan whenever he of Classics. is the process of printing stamps history and lithography, at vari- north to the camp. The distance “My earliest recollection of ments made by the family mem- ment, Wallace Forgie set up Camp’s objective was, in Forgie’s Waks which means ‘Men of the was in Madras and would often Next, he turned his attention using smooth-surfaced metal ous philatelic competitions held by this route is about 20 km from Wally Forgie was during one of bers to the Ranganathaswami Camp Tonakela. Apparently, own words, “to provide a well Woods’ in the Algonquin lan- pay for and take the stamps to an even more difficult area of plates known as dies. In the early at the State level as well as at the Madras Fort. his visits to Camp On-Da-da- temple there. Later, they shifted Forgie chose the Canadian-In- equipped camp site, conduct train- guage. Including its time on collected by his young friend. collection, known as ‘Indian days of printing of stamps the National level. He became the Waks in or about 1959-60. He to Madras and settled in dian name meaning ‘NOT FOR ing in camping and in the leader- * * * Black Bay, this camping opera- Madan Bhai graduated from Postal History’. This is a collec- dies would be changed as they was particularly fascinated with Sowcarpet. Madan Bhai’s father SELF’ but it also sounds like ship of every form of character The headquarters for the In- tion was recognised as the oldest St. Joseph’s College, Trichy, and tion of items from the pre-stamp wore out, and there would be was a prosperous shipping agent. “THANUKKU ILLA” in Tamil, building activities.” ternational Camping Fellowship in Ontario while it ran (until (Continued on page 6) started his career in banking era. They are exotic items like minute variations in stamps from (Continued on page 6) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014

Till February 23: Water Colours February 12: Vintage by Gayathri (at Dakshina- Vignettes, a retrospective exhi- Chitra). bition on Chennai (till February February 7: Berlin Philharmonic 16 at Marina Beach). Orchestra on the big screen February 13: Intallation – playing Wolfgang Amadeus Shop Lifting by Mithu Sen (till Mozart’s ‘Piano Concerto in G February 26 at Express Avenue). (Current Affairs questions are major No. 17 K.453’, and Dimitri Bright Noise, an art exhibition from the period January 1st to Shoshtakovich’s Symphony February 12: A King’s Journey, a gie Hall, New York; and Claude (till March 8 at Lalit Kala 15th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain No.11 in G minor ‘The Year puppet show. German puppet Debussy’s ‘La Mer’. Anil Sriniva- Akademi). to Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) 1905’. Anil Srinivasan, the best- theatre company Handgemenge san, Chennai’s best- known clas- February 14: Art Assemblage, 1. In which Punjab city did India’s known classical pianist in tells the story of a king who is sical pianist, will introduce the an exhibition of visiting galleries first and the world’s second Chennai, will introduce the forced to go on a hazardous concert (at Goethe-Institut, at 7 (at Arts and Soul) ‘Climate Change Theatre’ open concert (at Goethe-Institut, at voyage. He is faced with a num- p. m., by invitation). Discussions at the recently? 7.00 p.m., by invitation). ber of strange problems for which * * * Hyatt Regency: he finds equally unusual solu- February 8-16: Art Chennai February 7: Mahaphon Clang, The Future of Tradition 2. How did ISRO make history on tions. A King’s Journey is a Festival. Some of the events are Indo-German improvised music (2-3.30 p.m.) January 5th with the launch of shadow play that uses innovative listed below: with Ramesh Shotham: Percus- The Future of the Museum the GSLV-D5? lighting techniques to create a February 8: Auction preview sion, voice: Jan F. Kurth: Voice: (3.45- 5.15 p.m.) 3. Who won the coveted Comp- universe of surreal landscapes of Modern and Contemporary Matthias Kurth: Electric Guitar; February 15: Deep (skin) Skin ton-Miller Medal for being the and encounters (at Dakshina- Indian Art (at Hyatt Regency, Demian Kappenstein: Drums, Deep (at Park Hyatt from 5.30 Chitra). between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.). player of the Ashes series which percussion, objects; lutz Streun: p.m. onwards) February 13: Rhythm Is It, with February 9 onwards: Raghu Australia swept 5-0? Tenor saxophone, Bass clarinet, Discussions at the Hyatt Viola Mokrosch and Rhapsody, Rai’s India, a photo exhibition (at 4. Name the start-up that Electronic effects. Regency: a children’s concert organised by Gallery Veda on OMR). The Future of the City recently became the first Indian Mahaphon Clang is a young entity to be bought by Facebook. Goethe-Institut. Curiouser and Curiouser by (10 a.m.-11.30 a.m.) German group that teams here February 26-March 10: Paintings the Karuppu Art Collective The Future of Painting 5. Who is the latest male with internationally renowned by Dakshinamurthy (at Dak- (at Cholamandal Artists’ Vil- (11.45 a.m.-1.15 p.m.) footballer to win the FIFA Ballon percussionist Ramesh Shotham. shinaChitra). lage). The Future of Art (2 p.m.- d’Or and which legend was given Each concert will be unique: the February 28-March 9: Puppet Fes- February 10: Reflections on 3.30 p.m.) an honorary award? music will be composed and tival 2014. Three groups – Cal- Grace: International Photo Fest * * * 6. Name Israel’s former premier, rearranged by the musicians on cutta Puppet Theatre, Tripura (till February 23 at IIT Madras). one of the nation’s most influen- stage, in interaction with city, Puppet Theatre and Rama- Parvathi Nayar’s show The Workshops at DakshinaChitra tial figures in history, who died on audience and space. The music krishna Kottabommalattam – Ambiguity of Landscapes (till (For details: 98417 77779) January 11th, seven years after he is inspired by classical South will hold performances for March 12 at Gallery Veda). Indian and up-to-date impro- For adults went into a coma. visitors. The groups will also hold February 11: Role Models & February 8-9: Macrame Wall vised music by Free Jazz, Euro- a workshop that will focus on Power Relations, a photography 7. Which is the only Indian city pean avant-garde and Indian Hangings. to feature (at No. 26) in New developing creativity and exhibition (till February 16 at February 20-21: Glass sculpting popular music styles, such as improving folk media skills (at Elliot’s Beach). York Times list of 52 Places to Go February 23: Saree draping Tamil Pop, Bhangra (Punjabi) DakshinaChitra). Signals, Signposts, Voyages in 2014? Beat, Bollywood, as well as March 14: Berlin Philharmonic from the Madras Movement For children (8-14 years) 8. Which Asian country recently Dubstep, Funk and many Orchestra on the big screen (till February 28 at Sarala’s Art February 25: String Art – puppets tested out a new hypersonic others (at Goethe-Institut, at featuring Johannes Brahms Centre). made with jute coir. missile vehicle, dubbed the ‘WU- 7.30 p.m.). ‘Symphony No.3 in F major’; 14, that has top speeds of Mach 8 February 8-16: Glass sculpting by Georg Friedreich Haas: Premiere to 12? Anjali Srinivasan (at Dakshina- of a work commissioned by the A camp that Forgie built 9. In which Olympic sport held Chitra). Berliner Philharmoniker Foun- recently in Patna did Sanil Shetty * * * dation together with the Carne- (Continued from page 4) also used to make use of this and Ankita Das win their maiden facility, which they still do. Four National singles titles? the many pine cones scattered generations of Chandhoks of 10. Which Indian railway about the camp property and the Upper India Group have station’s platform No. 1 has Doyen of Philately was quite intent on taking a been associated with the run- become the world’s longest rail number of them back to Ma- ning of Camp Tonakela. platform in the world? (Continued from page 5) years. He also served on a num- dras. The other thing I recall is In a month, nowadays, over * * * ber of occasions as a member of the very large and lit cigar he 1200 campers, 800 picnickers 11. Name the Tamil daily that best known name among the the jury charged with judging had stuffed in the side of his and 1000 swimmers use the was started in December 1917, philatelists of Chennai. the entries at national level mouth.” Camp’s facilities. Day-to-day with Tiru Vi Ka as its editor, to In 1956 he, along with his philatelic exhibitions. He was The Murugappa group has expenses are met by the income echo the views of Annie Besant’s younger brother Balakrishna selected twice as the philatelic long been associated with Camp from camps, picnics and New India. Das, gathered together a group National Commissioner for In- Tonakela. It was in the early swimming. Capital expenditure 12. In which locality in Madras of enthusiastic philatelists of dia in which capacity he repre- 1950s that Slater of Tube Prod- has to come from donations. were the first experimental rail- Chennai and formed the South sented India and presented the ucts of India, Avadi, and his (Compiled from commemora- way lines in the sub-continent India Philatelists’ Association Indian entries at two interna- wife helped to run the medical tive souvenir Camp Tonekela laid in 1836? (SIPA). His old friend Vara- tional philatelic exhibitions – centre at the Camp. 1938-2013.) 13. Which edifice built, it is be- daraja Chettiar joined him in one held in Bangkok in 1993, For decades, TI Cycles and Note: For more information lieved, by Paul Benfield in the the founding of SIPA. The first and the other held in Seoul in Tube Products utilised a camp contact the Director (Tel: 1760s, considered the first ex- meeting of the six founding 2004. site for official get-togethers and 72000 58476) or the Camp ample of the Indo-Saracenic ar- members was held in a church meetings. The workers’ union (Tel:2655 0261). chitectural style in the country? in Broadway on December 30, Philatelists of Chennai owe a 14. What was started in 1925 by 1956 with, literally, the deep sense of gratitude to Poothoor Vaidyanatha Iyer? blessings of the pastor of the Madan Bhai for two other great CHENNAI HERITAGE 15. After which divine being was church. services he rendered them. The Madras first government aircraft first was that he was instrumen- No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 christened? In 1980, SIPA started tal in getting a special counter I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / 16. From whom did the John publishing a bi-monthly news- established at the Anna Salai I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it Company rent the village of letter on philately called the Post Office for philatelic items. hereafter. Triplicane in 1676? SIPA Bulletin. Madan Bhai The counter is housed in the G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 17. Which Asian scholar was headed SIPA and was editor of old Electric Theatre hall and (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, given the Thiruvalluvar Award the Bulletin for many decades. has facilities for philatelists to MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year recently? SIPA is an active body today sit and browse through the ma- 2013-14. 18. Who was hailed as ‘Lion of with nearly 650 members from terials available for sale before G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment Shencottah’ and ‘Nataka all over India. It continues to making their purchases. The and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Chakravarti’? actively serve the interests of second was that he was the Heritage an additional Rs...... 19. What natural formation in philatelists. The members meet force behind the allotment of a (Rupees ...... ) Please keep / put me Chennai is spread over about regularly on the second Sunday hall at the same Post Office for on your mailing list. 42,000 square feet and has a of every month at the exhibi- the display of collections of lo- Name : ...... canopy circumference of 753 tion hall of Anna Salai Post Of- cal philatelists. He could ...... fice. The SIPA Bulletin is now feet? achieve both these objectives Address: ...... published as a quarterly. 20. Which medical institution of thanks to the active coopera- ...... repute in Chennai was the brain- Madan Bhai served on the tion and assistance of many child of Mary Anne Scharlieb? Philatelic Committee of the dynamic Chief Postmasters- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed Post only. (Answers on page 10) Government of India for some General. February 1-15, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 Saviour of a dance in distress ome persons fight for the vidwans in Trivandrum and E.K. had a well-proportioned periodicals. Khasa Subba Rao, a Sright causes, win battles, en- Chennai. He also started to and supple body. This aided founder-editor of Swatantra sure that their achievements attend all music concerts of him to obtain distinction as a which later became Swarajya, yield benefits to society, shine note and absorb the finer dancer and he made his mark has pointed out that when E.K in well-deserved limelight, but points. quickly. But all his perfor- took up this new line, there then disappear into the shadows E.K. took his law degree in mances were benefit shows in were no readymade technical of time, leaving succeeding gen- 1921 and apprenticed with aid of charitable causes or insti- terms in English for use in dea- erations hardly aware of their M. Patanjali Sastri, who later tutions. At one place the audi- ling with Indian arts. E.K. had place in history. E. Krishna Iyer became a judge of the Madras ence would not leave the hall to improvise a new vocabulary E. Krishna Iyer as Malavika. was such a fighter, victor and High Court and Chief Justice of when the show was over till to do justice to his assignments. luminary who is now a half-for- E.K. removed his wig as they The public and artistes alike the Supreme Court. After being necessary. For example, he felt gotten man. He played a deci- had been betting among them- thought that E.K. was an impar- called to the Bar in 1922, E.K. that the listening public was sive role in the renaissance of selves on whether the dancer tial critic. developed a good practice both getting turned away by elabo- Tamil Nadu’s classical dance was a man or a woman. E.K. on the original side and the As one of the Secretaries of rate exhibitions of punditry. He and its transformation from who was in the prime of his appellate side of the Madras the Academy, E.K. invited argued for the eschewal of Sadir (aka Dasiattam) to youth danced exactly like a tra- High Court. Rukmini Devi to attend a dance pedantry and the reduction of Bharata Natyam. ditional female dancer and recital of Meenakshisundaram the time given to the all-too- The next year he was invited there was good reason for the Krishna Iyer was born on Pillai’s disciples on New Year’s elaborate ragam-tanam-pallavi to join the Suguna Vilas Sabha, betting to take place. August 9, 1897 in a village in the premier theatrical group of Day, 1935. He was no stranger in kutcheris. In fact, he argued Tirunelveli District. The eighth the time, which was led by P. Even from the first years of to the ‘Adyar amma’. She the case for limiting the typical of 14 children, he was given in Sambanda Mudaliar, the the Music Academy, E.K. was remembered his coming to the kutcheri to three hours. His pro- adoption to a land-owning architect of modern Tamil the- eager to introduce dance in its school founded by her husband posals triggered a fierce debate middle-class family in Kallidai- atre. According to Mudaliar, programmes. T.L. Venkata- Arundale and Dr. Annie Besant in the coloumns of The Hindu kurichi, a village in the same rama Iyer, who later became a and teaching Bharatiar’s songs in 1929. district. to the students. After seeing the judge of the Supreme Court, has E.K. was involved next in dance, Rukmini Devi decided The terrain, tradition and recalled how he and most of the the controversy over Tamil Isai. to learn the art herself. Accord- the time in which a person is other members of the Academy On the seventh day of the 1931 ing to her, she consulted E.K. brought up foster latent talent opposed E.K.’s attempts. conference of the Music Acad- and he showed great interest in and aptitudes. Kallidaikurichi emy there was a discussion on But, although very eager, her desire to learn the art. where E. Krishna Iyear (E.K.) the language of music lyrics. E.K. was not impatient and he Pandanallur Muthiah Pillai, son was brought up was once called T.V. Subba Rao, an Academy bided his time, awaiting a suit- of Meenakshisundaram, had the ‘Brahmin Chettinadu’ by a stalwart, moved a resolution able opportunity. When he was recorded that his father was wisecracking Alladi Krishna- incarcerated for political activ- with the following text: swamy Iyer, presumably because reluctant to accept Rukmini ity, the Academy in its Journal “This conference of the it was noted as much for its con- reported the event and said: “By Experts of the Music Aca- siderable number of rich fami- his enforced absence, the Acad- demy, Madras, is emphatically lies with large tracts of land or emy has been very greatly of opinion that it should be the engaged in hundi business and G by Arudra handicapped in its activities aim of all the musicians and handloom cloth trade as for its E. Krishna Iyer. and the histrionic world, lovers of music to preserve orthodox and traditonal cul- wherein Mr. Krishna Iyer had and maintain the highest ture. Every summer, its rich made a name, has had a sudden standard of classical Carnatic families conducted a number of E.K., besides being an actor of Devi as a disciple but E.K. pre- gloom cast over it. It is however music and so no consideration marriage functions. In those ability, was also a male-dancer vailed upon him to do so. E.K. some consolation to us to learn of the language should be times, marriages used to be cel- whose performances were note- was the happiest man when the that the Government of Madras imported so as to lower or ebrated over four days. And no worthy. has thought fit to recommend great guru agreed, inasmuch as a new convert to his faith could impair that standard.” wedding of a wealthy family was E.K. was inspired to become him to be placed in the ‘A’ class learn from the best tutor there complete without high class a dancer by the example of one (of prisoners) and that he will E.K. was for a resolution that was. E.K. considered Rukmini music and a dance perfor- Rangavadivelu of the Suguna be back amidst us in Novem- would reconcile the opposing Devi’s success important since mance. E.K. grew up in such an Vilas Sabha who was the ber.” points of view expressed in the she could win friends and influ- atmosphere and from a young first male dancer to don and debate. He was for encouraging E.K. did not idle his time ence other people with her pas- age acquired a taste for music perform in female costumes. compositions in neglected away while in prison. He met sionate advocacy and example. and dance. E.K. got his chance to take on languages without prejudice to many a leader there and tried to Since she was already a well- this new role when he was cho- classical standards. His sugges- Krishna Iyer joined Madras convince them of the need to known personality and was sen to act the part of Malavika tion was not accepted and the Christian College in 1914. revive the art of dance. Most of connected with the prestigious in Kalidasa’s Malavikagnimitra. official resolution was approved Then he studied in the them agreed with him. institution of the Theosophical The part required him to act, by the house with only one Trivandrum and Madras Law Society, she could, he reasoned, sing as well as dance. In prepa- In 1932, after E.K. fought a member dissenting. Colleges. While he was at the bring the desired respectability ration for the dance sequences, crucial battle in the Press with E.K. belonged to the socia- Law College hostel in to the dance. Trivandrum, an amateur dra- he learnt Sadir from a cele- Dr. Muthulakshmi Reddy, the list section of the Indian matic institution requested him brated dancer, Madurantakam staunch Anti-Nautch leader, In 1936, E.K. did another National Congress and his to play one of the leading female Jagadambal. he moved and succeeded in great service to Bharata Nat- concern was always for the getting approval for his resolu- yam. He was, at that time, also roles in their to-be-staged play, Learning about the dancing cultural welfare of the common tion at the sixth annual confer- the correspondent of the Tea- his looks and considerable mu- talents of E.K., the great natya- people. That was the reason ence of the Music Academy for chers’ College of Music started sical talent displayed in college charya, A.P. Natesa Iyer, who why, in his later endeavours, he renaming the dance known till by the Music Academy. He having been noticed. The play was well-known for his teaching concentrated on reforming then as Sadir, Dasiattam, etc. as arranged for Kattumannargudi was Sambanda Mudaliar’s of solo Sadir, besides Bhagavata Bhagavata Mela and rescuing Bharata Natyam. This small Muthukumara Pillai, a first-rate Sarangadhara and the role was Mela and Harikatha Kalakshe- the folk heritage. But even then step of the Academy would master of the authentic dance that of Ratnangi. Some days pam, offered to train the young he did not forsake Bharata after the play was staged, he was later turn out to have been a tradition, to teach there. Natyam. man systematically in Sadir. great leap for the most out- pleasantly surprised to read E.K’s passionate interest in E.K. was only too happy to standing classical dance of In- In the eventful life E.K. good comments about his preserving and promoting acquire such a master who was dia. received many honours, awards, histrionic talent in the local known popularly as ‘Abhi- dance was not, however, an titles and tributes. The best press. nayam’ Natesa Iyer. When the In the early 1930s, E.K. exclusive preoccupation. He compliment received was from Spurred by the achievement, training was over, Natesa Iyer started yet another facet of his was a keen student of trends in Dr. Muthulakshmi Reddy, his E.K. decided to undertake sys- had one request, namely that career and became a music and classical music and devoted his one-time opponent. Sending a tematic musical training. He E.K. should spread the art and dance critic as well. His reviews attention also to introducing studied with a couple of violin restore its dignity. were published in various reforms when he felt they were (Continued on page 8) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014 A great romance

(Continued from last fortnight) cut short estiny disengaged Kittappa Dfrom the winning scenario that resulted when the duo father figure to Kittappa who of Kannaiah’s company and sparred verbally with retorts looked up to him. It was said catapulted him into Colombo in and repartee, endeared these that it was Appadurai who kept the early months of 1926. A special dramas to the fans. The Kittappa away from that most dusky southern maiden of 18 audience lapped up the live common failing of stage actors called Sundarambal had been thrills of their extempore con- of the day – booze. With Appa- making waves there, bowling versational combat. durai’s death, Kittappa was left over people with her powerful to look after himself. There was Their relationship had gone singing and assertive personal- no one to look up to. ity. The expectation was that to its next stage too. One day, Kittappa would prove a power- Kittappa had arrived at Sun- * * * darmbal’s home and declared ful foil for her, something that Despite not going to school, his love for her. Sundarambal seemed to have proved elusive Kittappa was no uneducated S.G. Kittappa with K.B. Sundarambal. was in love with him, too. He in her career till then. Sunda- stage actor of his time. He had was 20 and she was 18. After two people who had mattered dearingly called ‘Enga aathuk- rambal had been warned not to learnt to speak, read and write she extracted that most predict- the most to him, alcohol proved karar’ (the man of my house, pair with Kittappa; he was too Tamil, Telugu and English. He able promise – that he would to be the black hole to nowhere, husband). overwhelming a presence and had such a powerful memory never ever leave her – they were the path perhaps to the fulfil- her singing would pale before that one look at a lyric was * * * said to have married quietly in a ment of a death wish. Devious Kittappa’s. And Kittappa him- enough for him to memorise it. As his legacy, S.G. Kittappa temple ceremony at Mayuram individuals posing as friends self, for his part, was asked not His power to absorb music was left behind the fascinating story in the beginning of 1927. She hastened his undoing to line to act with an upstart actress uncanny. He was no lotus eater of a heavenly minstrel who held was soon pregnant, and insisted their own pockets. whose attempts to find a male but a strapping young man rar- listeners in thrall with his magi- in letters she wrote to Kittappa foil had led to audiences hoot- ing to go. He cycled, swam, Towards the summer of cal music for an eternal mo- that he must make arrange- ing the actors out. played cricket and football, and 1933, the sunshine seemed to ment, and a cluster of lovely re- ments for the valaikappu ritual be going out of Kittappa’s ca- Both seemed to have brush- was a dashing driver of automo- cordings, a rainbow of songs. (bangle ceremony for expectant reer. He had swollen feet and ed aside the warnings, for one biles. He made tons of money, This treasure trove of music mothers). But Kittappa was no- yellow eyes, signs of cirrhosis of fine morning Kittappa turned but never touched a wad of might never have been a possi- the liver. X-rays indicated that up at Sundarambal’s residence notes. He would have others bility had Orr’s Columbia not Kittappa’s stomach was severely in Colombo. Even as Sunda- G by Vamanan spend it for him, never asking pulled off a recording coup in its rambal’s mother Balambal an- for accounts. He was no credu- inflamed and his liver had competition with HMV. It was nounced the arrival of a ‘royal lous fool though, and could see shrunk. He was treated conti- almost the fag end of Kittappa’s personality’ to Sundarambal, through deceit easily. He was nuously for two months – in a short but cataclysmically event- bungalow he rented in Myla- Kittappa walked in and sat where in sight when she gave generous to the members of his ful life, and future generations pore – and showed signs of re- down by her side. What temer- birth to a male child and not large family, and his house in can only bless their stars that covery. Then he went back all ity to enter a woman’s bedroom even after the baby died ten Shencottah was more or less a the gramophone medium won a of a sudden to Shencottah with and then to seat himself on her days later. Sundarambal knew dining hall open to all. He race that celluloid lost. A movie his erstwhile friends, then to his bed, thought Sundarambal. But that he had been married with treated his servants like friends. planned to be made with Kittappa wasn’t allowing her great fanfare in 1924 to 11-year- How did a man of such values wife’s place in Tirunelveli and Kittappa and Sundarambal in time to react. He said that he old Kittammal, daughter of a and character fall prey to alco- from there to the first floor of 1933 never took off. (Courtesy: needed rehearsals with her. mirasdar of Tirunelveli, at a hol? Chandra Vilas, a hotel in the Sruti) gala function held in the huge town. He had had a relapse of Sundarambal replied that there Kittappa it seemed, needed (Concluded) was no need for rehearsals. “My bungalow of Paramanandadas his addiction. By the time he to imbibe spirits for his spirited returned home to Shencottah, songs are of a different kind,” Chotadas in Tondiarpet. singing. He was said to keep a he was a changed man and had Kittappa remonstrated. “I will Sundarambal knew she was the jug of hot water fortified with thoroughly lost his zest for life. manage,” said Sundarambal, other woman, but such was her OUR ADDRESSES liquor and make a clean swipe It wasn’t long before he passed holding her own. “You will be adoration of Kittappa and her of it before launching into a away. As he lived in the For matters regarding subscriptions, deceived,” replied Kittappa. knowledge that he too loved agraha- high pitched Amma Ravamma donations, non-receipt of receipts “Let’s see who is,” retorted her deeply that she was pre- ram, he was cremated the same pared to make generous allow- or Evarani, his entry song. day. K.B. Sundarambal, who etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Sundarambal. One does not Given the charged atmosphere Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, know what Kittappa’s reaction ances to him. took his ashes to Kasi, donned of the stage, it seemed quite the the garb of a widow and an- Royapettah, Chennai 14. was to this first meeting, but we Meanwhile, relatives on natural thing to do. But for a nounced that she would act Madras Musings now has its own have Sundarambal’s. She was both sides wanted them apart. man who was swinging between with no other man on stage email ID. Letters to the editor can be bowled over, she felt her gan- Misunderstandings grew, with two women and was trying to henceforth. Such was her loy- sent via email to editor@madras dharva had sought her out. Kittappa suspecting Sundaram- beat back the angst of losing alty to Kittappa whom she en- musings.com. Those who wish to “What a handsome mien! bal’s loyalty and Sundarmbal intimate change of address can also What clarity of speech,” she ex- asking him to desist from his do so provided the subscription ulted. flippant charges lest the skies Saviour of a dance number is quoted. For non-receipt of They were a hit with audi- cleave and shower brimstone on copies, change of address, and all ences from the word go. Unlike him! But the two got together other circulation matters: Madras the panoply of special effects in a few years and toured the in distress Musings, C/o Lokavani Southern and picturesque scenes that South to stunning effect. To- Printers Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames (Continued from page 7) Road, Chennai 600 006. On editorial Kannaiah marshalled, the Kitt- gether, they helped the national with the passage of years as oth- cause. The salt satyagraha and ers gained ascendancy in its af- matters: The Editor, Madras appa-Sundarambal stage plays Musings, No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, were like ‘special’ dramas which civil disobedience movement message for his 61st birthday fairs. The way latter-day had caught the imagination of celebration, she said that E.K. chronicles sketched his contri- Westcott Road, Royapettah, gave importance to star actors Chennai 600 014. and their sterling performances the people and Kittappa contri- had been devoted to a worthy butions to the organisation, it rather than stagecraft and vi- buted in many ways to it. cause and had done a great ser- seemed they were already half- No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be sent sual grandeur. They comple- Other developments in Kit- vice to the South Indian art of forgotten. So much so, for the Bharata Natyam by regenerat- same birthday celebrations from these addresses every couple mented each other musically, tappa’s personal life seemed to of days to the persons concerned and with Kittappa’s high pitched have queered the pitch for him. ing and restoring it to its origi- mentioned previously, neither nal purity and dignity. She the Academy nor any of its ex- you will get an answer from them to singing (in scale G or even A) The death of his mother Mee- your queries reasonably quickly. easily matched by Sundaram- nakshi, to whom he had been noted that it had become a ecutives was in any way associ- popular art not only in every ated with the function beyond Strange as it may seem, if you adopt bal. If Kittappa sang like a mae- very closely attached, affected the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be household but also in all educa- sending a very formal message. stro, Sundarambal had the self- him deeply. Even before he able to help you faster and disappoint tional institutions. confidence to cross swords with could get over the loss, Appa- As Vazhuvoor Ramiah Pillai, you less. him with her ringing voice and durai Iyer, his eldest brother, Ironically, however, E.K’s in- a good friend of E.K., would say: – THE EDITOR clear diction. The chemistry, died. Appadurai had been a fluence in the Academy waned “The world is like that.” February 1-15, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 9 Brewing, breweries and Brewery Road What’s there hile in Madras recently, Leishman was born in 1850, in a name? Wstaying in my house on G ‘Pages from History’ and he married Mercy Mary Brewery Road in the postal zone Abraham, who was born in by DR. A. RAMAN (by Radha Padmanabhan) Shenoy Nagar, I had some time ([email protected]) Bellary in 1867. The Leishman– to investigate the source of its Mary Abraham marriage took name. There are one or two place in Ooty in 1886. They had ames of Chennai streets have long fascinated me. It is breweries in the outskirts of the 1913. The managing agents three girls (Louisa, b. Oota- Nquite well known that Kennedy Street (next to city (e.g. Valasaravakkam), but were McDowell & Co. Limited, camund, 1887; Muriel, b. St. Isabel’s Hospital) was originally known as Kannadiga there is none anywhere near Second Line Beach. The Vepery, 1894; Daisy, b. Vepery, Street. Long ago, Kannadigas lived in this street and they Brewery Road. 1895). The Leishmans lived in were mostly buttermilk sellers, carrying pots of butter milk brewery’s first concern was a on their heads with a kind of blanket round them to prptect Brewery Road connects copious supply of pure water Vepery, it would appear, from the 1890s. them from early morning cold. Poor President Kennedy had Shenoy Nagar and Anna Nagar and this was achieved after 14 nothing to do with this street. (the Anna Arch Road). It ex- months of search. No fewer I do not think the 18’ wide tends westward from West Club than 14 bores were sunk; a well well exists today. But Usha The English gave their names to many roads in Chen- Road in Shenoy Nagar. Curi- of 18 foot diameter was con- Madan told me that parts of the nai. Some of them may have been renamed. The English, I ously, it is one of those rare structed, and 6000 gallons beer factory building still sur- must say, do have rather funny surnames. Don’t expect to roads that forks into two, along (about 26,000 L) of water per vive on Brewery Road, althou- buy flowers on Flowers Road (Kilpauk), or bread and cakes its western extension, both gh it is now used as a residece. I on Baker’s Road, Hunter’s Road has nothing to do with hour obtained. The Govern- hunting and Coats Road (T’Nagar) has nothing to do with arms bearing the name Brewery ment analyst certified that this could not visit this building to the sale of coats. If you are in search of a cook you will not Road. A few older residents in well water was pure. take a photograph. find one on Cook’s Road (Ayanavaram), and if you want to buy some timber you will be disappointed if you go to Wood’s Road. And there is a Powder Mill Road in Grey Nagar and a Karuneeswarar Pagoda Street in Mylapore. Austin Flowers, George Baker, James R. Coats, an engi- neer in the Corporation of Madras, and Mr.Hunter lent their names to these roads and streets.

Some intriguing queries: Did Brick Kiln Road have a kiln at one time? And who was Nancy of Nancy Street, Purasawalkam? How did Dooming Street (Santhome) get its name? Santhome is famous for its Cathedral but Doom- ing reminds us of Doomsday. Porche’s Road is a misspell- ing for Portuguese Road! I live on Eldam’s Road and was always amused to read the road’s name in Tamil which reads as Yeldams Road. Imagine my surprise when I found that the Tamil spelling was the right one and the road should be spelled Yeldam’s Road named after Mr. Yeldam, Mayor of Madras in 1801!

A word about the streets of Chennai; they are named Front view of the B.B.B. Brewery Company Limited in Brewery Road, Amanjikarai. Bullock carts carting after people, some of them long departed from this world. hogshead. The streets are so filthy, full of garbage and rubble that the people after whom they have been named must be turning the area suggested that the road The brewery was con- In the 1910s, central in their graves. I wish the descendants would honour the is thus named because it forks – structed to a design by George Madras’s outer limits stopped at memory of the dead by getting the streets cleaned regularly. Tamil name pirital – since, when Adlam & Sons, Bristol, with fa- Kilpauk, and Amanjikarai As for those living, after whom the streets have been written in Tamil, ‘pa’ and ‘ba’ cilities to expand, when needed. was in the outskirts. Water named, I would be ashamed to have one named after me. are hard to distinguish! That’s Sole rights were secured to use availability and distance from What’s in a name? A street would smell as foul even if an explanation for us to chuckle the yeast species Saccharomyces populated areas (where would called by any other name. over. thermantitonum . This yeast spe- linger the ‘foul’ smell that P.S. This article is written with an apology to Sriram V. I interviewed a long-time cies was specifically selected for emanates from breweries fermentation in the brewery be- because of fermentation) would for his very well researched article in Madras Musings about resident of the area, Usha Madras Street names. Madan, who was born and has cause it could tolerate the heat have been reasons for selecting lived there for long. Usha was of Madras. A qualified English this site for the brewery. clear that Brewery Road got its chemist and a brewer and 40- name because of a beer factory. odd workers were employed. She recalled seeing beer barrels The brewery produced some carted from here in bullock- fine quality liquor using Scot- into an enormous ten-day drawn carts. I would place tish malt and Kent hops. community festival with huge Usha’s description in the late Pilsener, a light beer, was made Festivals in images being taken in ostenta- 1950s-early 1960s. from Bavarian hops and Bohe- mian malt. The overall supervi- tious processions on the last * * * sion of this brewery was by W. changing times day of the festival and immersed There were several breweries B. Prosser in the beginning. in the sea with much fanfare as in the Madras Presidency. The is being done in Mumbai or * * * Castle Brewery was set up in the (Continued on page 3) has generated enormous Pune! A far cry indeed from Nilgiris in 1857. So was the Thomas Leishman, a Scot, ‘branding’ activities on the eat- the days when the small Nilgiris Brewery Company. The purchasing the five breweries ing-out, gift-giving and greet- Pillaiyar (Lord Ganesh) image tremendous momentum and British Brewing Corporation in located in different parts of the ings cards sectors in an other- made of clay would be cash registers merrily ring Madras (1902) catered to the Madras Presidency, formed the wise laid-back city traditionally immersed in the well located in during Akshaya Thrithiya just elite of Madras, whereas the United Breweries Limited known for its more inhibited the rear of your house or in a as their Mumbai peers swing in Bangalore Brewery Company [UBL], which was first regis- ways of life!. nearby river without much ado with the mood of Danteras supplied beer for the army units tered at 17 Armenian Street on Colourful supplements in and in silent reverence! during Diwali. stationed in Pune and Banga- March 15, 1915. UBL’s bullock the newspapers and attractive Having long been associated With a rapidly increasing lore from 1885. carts transporting casks, known TV commercials from jewellers as ‘hogdshead’, of beer, became (until a couple of years ago) have given a new thrust to urbanisation and a paradigm * * * a familiar sight on the roads of with the Marketing Depart- Varalakshmi Nombu too in re- shift in society’s mores, The B.B.B. Brewery Com- Madras and beyond, after lo- ment of a major newspaper, I cent times! festivals too have begun to pany Limited, an offshoot of cally-brewed beer and lager be- can vouch for how St. Valen- What was an individual reflect the vast change, British Beer Breweries Limited came popular in the early 20th tine’s Day fever in February, household Vinayaka Chathur- perhaps all for the good of the of London, was established in Century. whipped up through the media, thi in the past has today grown economy. 10 MADRAS MUSINGS February 1-15, 2014

t’s probably the water,” the division league, so that the same “I visiting speaker, tongue- 12 are together in each of those in-cheek and politically incor- What is it that ails two sides for the duration of the rect, said. “Maybe Tamil Nadu league season. The other ten will start winning the Ranji Tro- teams can be made up of play- phy once it receives enough ers drawn from the existing Kaveri water,” he added in re- Tamil Nadu cricket? teams backed by companies, sponse to my question why the with a ceiling of four players State was unable to translate from any one business house. talent into performance despite atic process of talent identifica- the personnel on the field and State team’s fortunes believes, This way, the home team ad- handsome support from tion and promotion. off it. “I have watched Tamil is the race for the Palayampatti vantage will be taken out of the corporates and the cricket ad- Nadu in Ranji cricket for over Shield for the TNCA league, equation, and the matches can ministration. Coaches have come and 15 years, and it never plays the with doctored wickets – flat be more evenly fought. The occasion was the gone, and captains and team same eleven for two consecu- ones against strong opponents This plan is naturally fraught launch of my book on Tamil members have been hand- tive matches,” claims a sup- and nasty turners against weak with the risk of running into all Nadu cricket in 2002. Nothing picked and nurtured at the porter who has given up hope. ones – responsible for the State manner of challenges and will much has changed since. In State level, the senior league Some critics accuse Tamil Nadu team’s lack of preparedness be- need a major overhaul of mind- fact, the last two seasons have matches are played over three cricketers of arrogance, of being yond local skirmishes? Another sets and structures. It may even been disastrous, with the State days, there is no shortage of the observer squarely blames the be dismissed outright as naïve team failing to qualify for the shorter format games either, in- regular failure of the team’s and impractical. The grim fact clusion in the Chennai Super knock-out rounds of the tour- G by leading batsmen at crucial junc- is that Tamil Nadu cricket Kings has bred a new avatar of nament. V. Ramnarayan tures for Tamil Nadu’s poor needs drastic remedies for its cricketer, confident, innovative show. chronic ills which have only Tamil Nadu last won the na- and introduced to winning ways ensured that it has won the tional championship in 1987- One critic wonders whether by a dynamic captain – yet the Ranji Trophy just two times in 88, and that was only its second the unseemly rivalries in the lo- Ranji Trophy remains elusive as the history of the champion- title since the tournament be- cal league blind both players ever for the State. strangers to the team ethic of ship. My proposal can at least gan in 1934. Of talent there and their patrons to the need successful sides. This year, the be the starting point for experts seems no shortage in the State, Many reasons have been for cohesion and team spirit State captain has himself de- to sit together and draw up a and sportspersons below the in- cited, ranging from compla- when the same players turn out plored the lack of commitment master plan with the singular ternational level have never cency and the result of being for Tamil Nadu. Going further, of his men, in a newspaper ar- objective of triumph in the had it better anywhere, at least pampered to the lack of the yet another long-time cricket ticle. Ranji Trophy. Such a plan is in the subcontinent. In Chen- killer instinct endemic to a watcher insists that Tamil Nadu long overdue, for nowhere else nai, a cricketer good enough to laidback lifestyle that does not The worrisome aspect of the always lacked the mental quali- in Indian sport has so much compete in the first division of require a young player to com- recent debacle has been that ties needed to win on the na- been invested by so many in one the TNCA league is assured of mute miles by packed train to Tamil Nadu’s worst perfor- tional stage, that most of its rep- game with so little to show for livelihood security of a high or- daily net practice. One theory mances came at home, on wick- resentatives are paper tigers, it. der, excellent training and prac- floating around suggests that ets tailored to suit its players. happiest when the stakes are tice facilities, qualified coaches the trouble lies with the lack of The team consistently failed to low. He rues the very culture and physical trainers devoted to consistency in selection, exces- exploit conditions expected to here that celebrates individual- MADRAS MUSINGS individual teams, and a system- sive chopping and changing of suit its team. For example, visi- ists and ignores team men. tors performed better on turn- ON THE WEB Do we need to make radical ing tracks than our own spin- To reach out to as many ners. changes in the structure of lo- readers as possible who Answers to Quiz cal cricket to bind the players share our keen interest in True, Tamil Nadu missed into a fighting unit? Is there a Madras that is Chennai, 1. Kapurthala; 2. It marked the first successful flight of an Indian the services of its ace spinner way we can ensure that the and in response to requests cryogenic engine; 3. Mitchell Johnson; 4. Little Eye Labs; R. Ashwin, who was away State’s best talents play to- from many well-wishers – 5. Cristiano Ronaldo and Pele; 6. Ariel Sharon; 7. Chennai; doing national duty, but what of gether more often, even outside especially from outside 8. China; 9. Table tennis; 10. Gorakhpur. the other slow bowlers? Did the Ranji Trophy arena, than at Chennai and abroad who their lack of experience prove present? One solution would be receive their postal copies * * * their undoing? Was the captain, the de-corporatisation of the very late – for an online edi- 11. Desabhaktam; 12. Chintadripet; 13. Chepauk Palace; once a champion pace bowler, local league by whatever means tion. Madras Musings is 14. Ananda Vikatan; 15. Hanuman; 16. Sultan of Golconda; known for his fighting spirit and the administration has at its now on the web at www. 17. Taiwanese poet Yushi; 18. S.G. Kittappa; 19. Adyar ability to turn matches around, disposal and fielding two State madrasmusings.com banyan tree; 20. Kasturba Gandhi Hospital for Women in the weak link in the attack? Or, teams – as in the Buchi Babu THE EDITOR Triplicane. as one keen observer of the tournament – in the senior

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiahfor ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No. Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 Chennaiand printed 600 014, by Tprinted J George by Anu at Varghese Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt. Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.