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In the Pantry Peanuts IN THE PANTRY peanuts ABOVE: Virginia Willis tosses a field greens salad in peanut oil and serves it with a deviled egg. 36 The NaTioNal CuliNary review • april 2018 Peanuts The versatile nut adds crunch, texture and amazing flavor to many dishes on the menu. By Jodi Helmer ake a close look at restaurant menus: Dishes featuring T walnuts, almonds and pecans abound, while one nut—the peanut—is often left out. Steven Satterfield, James Beard award-winning executive chef/co-owner of Miller Union in Atlanta, thinks it’s a mistake to overlook the humble peanut. “Restaurant chefs tend to lean toward more exotic nuts like pistachios and pecans, but peanuts are a lot more versatile than some of those other nuts,” he says. “Peanuts can be sweet or savory, add crunch and texture, and have a real depth of flavor. When a peanut is in a dish, it makes a little noise.” The flavorful ingredient works well in dishes ranging from sweet potato/peanut soup and sauteed collard greens with roasted peanuts to peanut-coated fried chicken wings and, of course, peanut butter pie. Creative mixologists might even feature peanuts in the bar program, pairing salted peanut-infused rum with Coca-Cola. “Peanuts are diverse ingredients,” Satterfield says. A world of inspiration The ubiquitous nut is not a nut at all. Peanuts are legumes, like beans, peas and lentils, that grow underground and are plucked from the soil starting in late summer. “There is an earthiness to them, which is obvious because of how peanuts are grown,” says chef and James Beard award-winning cookbook author Virginia Willis. Popular around the world, peanuts are common ingredients in Thai, Indian, African and Indonesian dishes. In fact, chefs often look to international cuisines for inspiration. Rob Connoley, chef/owner of Bulrush STL and Squatter’s ACFCHEFS.ORG 37 IN THE PANTRY peanuts Café in St. Louis, created a PHOTO CREDITS Left, Miller Union; bottom, Charles Guthrie/Coffee-walk; opposite, from Boiled Peanut and new interpretation of African Field Pea Salad groundnut stew using deep-fried Steven Satterfield, Executive Chef/Co-Owner Miller Union chickpea cakes, kale sauteed in Atlanta green peanut oil and toasted Yield: 4 servings peanuts in place of traditional ½ cup blanched raw peanuts ingredients such as polenta. 3 T. peanut oil, divided Satterfield traded tahini for 1 large ripe tomato ground peanuts for a modern 1 sweet bell pepper 1 cup field peas, blanched version of baba ghanoush. 1 cup shelled boiled peanuts (recipe follows) Most peanuts are grown 1 T. sherry vinegar in Southern states—Alabama, ½ cup lemon ricotta (recipe follows) Georgia, Texas and Virginia— 1 t. chopped fresh mint 1 t. chopped fresh basil making them a natural ingredient in Southern cooking. “I see peanuts as another staple in Southern pantries,” Willis says. “Forward- 1. Toss blanched raw peanuts in 2 t. peanut oil. In 350ºF oven, roast for 15 minutes or until golden. thinking Southern chefs are researching historic dishes made with peanuts and 2. Adjust oven to broil. Lightly coat tomato and bell looking for creative ways to put peanuts on their menus.” pepper with 1 t. peanut oil; place on roasting pan The field pea/peanut salad at Miller Union made with blanched field peas, 4-5 inches below broiler. Turning occasionally Secrets of the Southern Table with tongs to broil evenly, char tomato and pepper. shucked boiled peanuts, roasted tomatoes and peppers tossed in light vinaigrette, Remove from heat; cool. Peel blistered skin of served over housemade lemon ricotta, is a staple during the summer months when tomato and pepper over bowl to catch juices. Strain juice; reserve. Dice tomato and pepper; add green peanuts are in season. The dish has a cult following. “I could never not have reserved juice. it on the menu,” Satterfield says. “It’s a great way to celebrate the boiled peanut in 3. In small bowl, combine field peas and boiled an elevated way.” peanuts. Add tomato/pepper mixture, sherry vinegar and remaining 2 T. peanut oil. Season Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved. © 2018 by Virginia Willis. Photos Angie Mosier. lightly with salt. Focus on flavor 4. Divide ricotta among four individual shallow Peanuts come in multiple varieties, each with its own distinct flavor. Runner bowls; spread across center of each bowl. Spoon peanuts, the most common peanuts grown in the U.S., is the staple ingredient in salad ingredients over ricotta. Top each salad with toasted peanuts. Sprinkle with mint and basil. peanut butter. Valencia peanuts are sweeter, and Spanish peanuts, thanks to their high oil content, have the nuttiest flavor. Boiled Peanuts To make the most of the versatile nut, Connoley suggests experimenting 5 lbs. green peanuts, washed, picked over 3 gallons water with different varieties in different dishes. “Chefs are always trying to tease out 3 cups Diamond Crystal kosher salt 2 cups apple cider vinegar BELOW: Savory peanut butter mousse with sumac, fried kale, chickpeas and pickled rhubarb from Rob Connoley, Bulrush STL. Method: In large stockpot with lid, combine peanuts, water, salt and vinegar. Bring to a simmer over high heat; cover. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer for a minimum of 4 hours, or until peanuts are tender. Lemon Ricotta 1 cup lemon juice + zest from lemons 2 T. fine sea salt 13 cups whole milk 3 cups heavy cream Method: In glass bowl or measuring cup, combine lemon juice, zest and salt; stir to dissolve salt. Set aside. In 6-quart stainless-steel pot, combine milk and cream. Turn heat to medium. Strain lemon juice mixture to remove zest; add to milk/cream mixture. When milk/lemon mixture starts to simmer, remove from heat. Allow to sit undisturbed in pot until temperature reaches 80ºF. Ladle mixture into cheesecloth-lined sieve over tall container. Allow cheese to drain until reaches desired consistency. Save some whey to stir in if cheese gets too firm. 38 The NaTioNal CuliNary review • april 2018 different flavors and textures,” he says. “When you know about different peanut Garlic-Rubbed Skirt Steak and Vidalia varieties, it opens up new possibilities Onions with Peanut Romesco Virginia Willis, Chef/Cookbook Author for cooking.” Virginia Willis Culinary Enterprises, Inc. When cooking with ingredients that Atlanta have dominant flavors, such as peanuts, Yield: 4-6 servings achieving a balance is important. Peanuts In this age of season-less grocery stores, where strawberries and squash are always available, Vidalia tend to pair well with heartier proteins onions remain a spring treat, with a harvest from late April such as grass-fed beef, but can overwhelm through mid-June. Every spring, many Southerners buy milder dishes, including fish, according a big mesh sack of these sweet onions and store them in a cool, dry place for as long as they’ll last. Here, their to Willis. “Other nuts can fade into the unique sweetness provides a complement to rich steak and background and add more texture than tangy romesco sauce. The sauce makes about 2 cups and can be doubled. flavor,” she says. “Peanuts are flavor-forward Skirt steak is a long, thin cut of beef from the diaphragm nuts with a distinctive taste.” muscles of the cow. It is lean and fibrous with an intense Although there are myriad ways beefy flavor, and is often used in fajitas. Skirt steak is best to feature raw (salted and unsalted) cooked over high heat and should only be cooked to rare or medium-rare. To serve, cut across the grain of the meat. peanuts and boiled peanuts in recipes, 2 lbs. skirt, hanger or flank steak adding rich peanut flavor doesn’t necessarily require working with the nuts. 6 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste with salt The groundnuts are also the base ingredients for peanut oils, peanut flour and, 2 T. pure olive oil of course, peanut butter. 2-3 large sweet onions, preferably Vidalia, sliced Willis loves using green peanut oil in salad dressings or as a finishing oil. ½ cup roasted peanuts “Adding a spoonful of peanut butter into a sauce gives it another layer of oiliness 1 (12 oz.) jar roasted red bell peppers ½ cup tomato puree and amazing flavor,” she says. 2 garlic cloves + more for garnish 1 slice country white bread, toasted, crumbled Sweet and satisfying 1 T. smoked paprika Thanks to its association with peanut butter, peanuts are often considered ¹⁄³ cup sherry vinegar ²⁄ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish comfort food. Peanuts pair well with caramel and chocolate, and, thanks to a ³ Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper natural hint of sweetness, the nuts are a popular addition to desserts ranging 1. Pat the steak dry with paper towels. Place in large bowl; from ice cream and cheesecake to peanut butter cookies and peanut brittle. slather garlic paste and olive oil all over meat, turning At Bulrush STL, peanut butter pie is among the most popular desserts on the to coat. Add onions. Cover; refrigerate for at least 30 menu. Connoley uses a mix of shelled unroasted peanuts and peanut butter for minutes or up to overnight. 2. Grind peanuts in food processor. Add roasted peppers, over-the-top peanut flavor. It’s a popular dessert, he says, because it combines tomato puree, garlic, bread and paprika. Process to a the sweetness of sugar and honey with the saltiness of peanuts, and the addition paste. Add vinegar; pulse to blend. With motor running, of peanut butter adds a creamy texture. Guests also have a strong emotional gradually pour oil through feed tube in steady stream until mixture thickens like mayonnaise.
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