University of Nebraska Omaha DigitalCommons@UNO

Books in English Digitized Books

1-1-1955 This is Afghanistan Royal Afghan Embassy, London

Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unomaha.edu/afghanuno Part of the History Commons

Recommended Citation London: Information Bureau, Royal Afghan Embassy, [1955?] Printed by Frowde & Co. 33 p.: ill.; 20 cm.

This Monograph is brought to you for free and open access by the Digitized Books at DigitalCommons@UNO. It has been accepted for inclusion in Books in English by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@UNO. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THIS IS AFGHANISTAN -. True and Untrue karakul pelts. A gifl of one of these highways connecting various towns. is Afghanistan is no nlore a remote palt wmanlzke-your family or friends happy partly completed-tarred, etc. Travellers of the world-thanks to modern means of for ever! can also fly to Kabul, the capital, from transport. Teheran, Delhi and MOSCOW.The Ariana People Afghan Airlines have regular services It is true thal few people know enough Most important of all are the people. between Kabul and other main towns at about Afghanistan. It is also true that You can see in the streets of Kabul tall, very reasonable rates. A seat in an still fewer have visited the country; but sturdy Pakhtuns walking proudly about in Afghan bus is also easily obtainable; and is entirely untrue that your trip would not their costumes. The clever Tajiks, the being a stranger you would be treated like be worthwhile from various points of small, hard-working Hazaras, the Uzbeks a guest of honour by all passengers. rou view. and the Turkomans are familiar sights Preparations YO1 Geology' moving around in their various pursuits. SUF They have becoiile mixed a great deal One of the most typical trips to With its unique location in the heart son through inter-marriages, but some of Afghanistan is to start from the Persian tou of Asia, Afghanistan is straddIed by one these ethnic groups have still preserved border and finish at the Khyber Pass. of thc highest n~~untainranges in the foo their characteristic features. Supposing that you have obtained your world-the Hindu"ku;h. This range anc actually cuts the countrpin half, is a great All these people with their different ~ouristvisa from any Afghan Consulate duc ~mpedimcntfor coi~ln~unicationsbctween features, costumes, dialects and some- in Europe or en route, your international a10 various places and interferes with the times languages are Afghans. Their health certificate indicates that you have w 11 climate. Ye1 it is majestic, memorable attachment to Is!am and their love for been inoculated against typhoid, cholera rad and glorious. And it is nature's great freedom have cemented their unity in such and smallpox, and you have enough Plzc water supply. a way that the odd mixture works quite money to last you till the end of your 1 smoothly. journey, you then cross the border from History bet An honourable Afghan is a hospitable Yusufabad to Islam Kala. Afghan disr Historically, the counlry is one of the person. Therefore it is the easiest thing customs officials are not difficult. In fact kee richest in the world. You can see the In the world to go to an Afghan home, every foreigner is treated with due stil ruins of ancient: Bactria near Mazar, have a cup of tea, enjoy the Afghan meals courtesy by all, officials or otherwise. statues of Buddha and thousands of tun and make friends. Almost all Afghans Money Problenzs reli painted caves in Bamyan, and remains of believe that nloney is a means and not an Call the Kushanid civilisation in Bagram. There is no restriction on the amount end in itself. So they do not save enough of foreign currency taken into Afghanistan. w 11 Fr~~its and do not worry about their rainy days. The Afghanistan Bank has a special rate obt Exotic fruits, among then1 sixty kinds Cripples and homeless people are looked of exchange for tourists and all branches He, after by the local municipalities. The of grapes grown in Herat, are another of this bank and other banks in Kabul I main attraction. Afghan melons, aged are cared for by their sons or cash Travellers' Cheques. American daughters. Further, life is so peaceful He: especially those grown in the north, are dollars are generally preferred to other rno the best in the world. and carefree that they have not even come currency. Afghan money can be obtained is to think of it. either at Yusufabad or Islam Kala. In lou Products of Afghan handicrafts are How to Get There case of emergency, officials are always ful cheap to buy and last for ae;es. Thev The best way to travel to Afghanistan helpful. e me; rang; from -beautiful red carpets, & is by car. Roads are increasingly The country's monetary unit is caIled not fabrics, gnives and sheepskin coats to improved and a network of all-weather an Afghani, which consists of 100 pools. roa

2

/ Bb. 6 ,vns 9s There are banknotes for 5, 10, 20, 50, ~vellers 100, 500, and 1,000 Afghanis. The rate I, from of exchange between Afghanis and dollars Ariana is fluctuating most of the time, but it is ervices soniewhere between 40 and 50 Afghanis wns at to the dollar. in an What to Take Along le; and You should have enough petrol (it costs ed like roughly five shillings per gallon) to take rs. you from Jslam Kala to Herat. Also, a supply of water and a pernlanent stock or ips to some spare parts come in handy. Most 'ersjan tourists take along a supply of canned ass. foods, fruit and milk, some antibiotics, d your and shotguns for shooting partridges and nsulate ducks. Others prefer peaceful camping ational along the way and relaxing in the evenings u have while listening to the cherished transistor :holera radios connecting them with home. :nough Photog~~~phy f your There is actually nothing worth seeing r from between Jslam Kala and Herat-a 4fghai1 distance of 120 kilometres. You should In fact keep both your ordinary and cine caineras i due still. Herat will give you plenty of oppor- Afgl~nnhnrrdicrL7j/s on display at Frnnkfrrr/, West Gcrrnar~~l. ise. tunity to click and' zoom them. A n ,TI $\F_ J reliable stock of colour film for both cold weather the management should be or the taxi driver. asked to arrange the heating. mount cameras would save you a lot of bolher, Food while black and white films are easily nistan. Langu~geSnags A typically good Afghan meal to order obtainable in all main towns. a1 rate A workable knowledge of Afghan is "chalau," which is white rice anches Hernt Persian is always useful, but most tourists served with one or more kinds of vege- Kabul For a down-to-earth tourist arriving in can get away with a few words they have tables. Vegetables vary according to the ~erican Herat after a long drive there is nolhing carefully written and memorised before- season, as do the fruits. "Nan," the other more welcome than the Park Hotel. This hand. Some people take with them teach- unique Afghan bread which is sometimes ~tained is a pleasant building with spacious yourself books of Persian in their own home-baked, and resembles pancakes, is a. In lounges, comfortable furniture and beauti- language. The difference between Afghan a delicious whole-wheat nourishment. It always ful carpets. The cost of a single room and and Iranian Persian is slight in writing is automatically brought to1 the table with meals here, as well as in.other towns, do but sometimes striking in pronunciation. a jug of water. " Palau " is more delicious called not exceed three pounds. Most single So you certainly want to be understood than " chalau," but it is prepared with pools- rooms have private bathrooms, but in when you utter a few words to the waiter fried ground onions and therefore does in margarine, so it is quite safe. The best ar way of eating " bolani" is either with gr' Afghan tea or with yoghurt. Most tei Afghans drink green tea, and the first cup 11C is much too sweet for foreigners. The t hl remaining cups, usually several, are drunk fa( without sugar. Afghan yoghurt is usually thl more sour than its E~iropeanversion. As dairy farming has not been thl developed in the country, milk has to be Ki specially ordered in the hotels or carried m; along in tins. Restaurants in the streets re. generally serve tea without milk, but milk tea which is called " mix," is also obtain- ml able. Mvllul,zents Refreshed after the night's rest and a warm bath, you should ask for a taxi or gadi, a horse-drawn carriage, aid start your sightseeing tour from the Park Hotel, as you can waste a lot of time by driving your own car from one place to another. Most cities have no maps as yet and you do not have a clue about the location of not suit most Western ston~aclis. There Other kinds of kebab are " chapli," tourist attractions. are varieties of " palau " and " chalau " which is almost a version of hamburgers The first thing to see in Herat is the for a gourmet to sort out and appreciate. only having more ingredients. " Dashi " Grand Mosque, which was built in the Most tourists, however, find kebabs and is somelhing like European roast lamb 13th century and has been reconstr~~cled " bolani " very tasty. The Afghan kebabs several times. In recent years vast but is more delicious and tender, while SP are different from those served in the " dcgi " consists of pieces of lamb with repairs have been made to it under the ce West. The ordinary kebab, called " teka," slices of onion fried in a saucepan. The patronage of His Majesty King HI consists of pieces of lamb and fat grilled nlore conlplicated type, the " abreshom " Mohammed Zabir Shah. The Grand ot on skewers and served hot. They usually is only served in homes, as it is more Mosque has gorgeous panelling of glazed Wt serve with il slices of onion in vinegar or costly. tiles, precious pieces of mosaic and be tomato and onion sliced and mixed in a " Bolani " is a kind of pancake stuffed beautiful Arabic inscriptions. It is indeed flc bowl. Always beware of Afghan enthu- with special Afghan leeks, salt and a great monument giving the visitor a ac siasm for red peppers or chillies. Most pepper. Some people call it Afghan thrilling impression and an idea about the flc of them like hot meals in both senses of ravioli, but unfortunately it is not style of architecture and decoration of the ki the word, and think that they do the guest generally served in hotels and restaurants. time. ar a favour by putting more pepper, fresh or You should either order it or buy it from The other monuments to see are the ar ground, in the meal. some street vendor. It is generally cooked " musallas "-a series of minarets built ex . The best around a religious school where Jami, the Buys :ither with great poet and scholar of Herat, used to Things to buy in Herat include " kurk," 1. Most teach hundreds of his pupils. There is a thick woollen material for making le first cup not much left of the school building but ,ners. The coats. This is usually light brown or the remains of the minarets with their beige in colour with white stripes. The , are drunk Fading tiles and mosaics bear witness to best thing to buy For ladies is a very fine 1 is usually the artistic designs of Herat's craftsmen. version. hand-woven silk fabric called " kanawez." not been Other places of interest in Herat are This is a gorgeous cloth with marvellous the tomb of Queen Gowharshad, wife of shades varying according to the degree of has to be or carried King Shah Rukh (1405-1447) and the light they are exposed to. Also silk mausoleum of Ansari at Gazergall, both handkerchiefs with chic or stripy designs the streets renowned for their literary accomplish- are good buys for decorative purposes. c, but milk lso obtain- ments. Leaving Herat Scenic Places From Herat you should proceed to The two most scenic places in Herat Shindand, 130 kilonletres to the south, and have a good rest there. Tourists rest and a are Takhte Safar and Shaidaye, the former overlooking the cily with the vast usually order their lunch at the small but a taxi or pleasant local hotel by telephone from and start green plain of I-Ierat, and the latter is a big park with beautiful flowers and rows Herat. Your pelrol stock and water 'ark Hotel, should also be replenished here as there by driving of cypress trees. In fact, cypress trees grow so well here that they are most is a distance of 140 kilometres to cover :O another. in order to reach Farah. :t and you typical of the city, and line the streets The Grc~ndMosqrle of Herni lvhicl~is 17ioru thnrz location of of Herat. It is a good idea to have Farah 700 years old. morning tea in one and afternoon tea in Farah is the seat of the local province :rat is the the other of these two beauty spots. of the same name and has nothing praise- lilt in the Wedthy Heratis worthy about it as several upheavals reduced its buildings into rubble. onstrircted Although Herat does not have a 'ears vast speciality as far as the gournlet is con- It is also extremely hot and if you under the cerned, ye1 it is special in other ways. happen to be thcrc in summer, you should ty King Herat produces more men of lettcrs than seldom venture out from the shady hotel. he Grand other provinces and the people are more Only a glance at the famous BaghC Pul of glazed well-off. The new city has rows of in the late afternoon is sufficient to give xaic and beautiful houses with vast gardens full of you an idea that most parts of this area t is indeed flowers. Some houses even have tens of were green and prosperous in the old days. visitor a acres divided into patches for growing Dilwarn about the flowers, fruits and vegetables. The best Another halting place would be tion of the kind of grapes in Herat are called " la1 " Dilaram, 132 ltilornetres south-east of and are while in colour. Pistachio is Farah. Lunch or dinner should again be :e are the another product of Herat and moslly ordered by telephone from Farah. The irels built exported. River Khash, the dcsolate plain and wide The Nndir Pakhtrrri Park in Hero!. 5 majestic horizon furnish an enjoyable Lmh kargah The ruins at Kala Bist have cruml,lcd I view from the hotel overlooki~zgthe wlzole Lashkargah is the seat of both to form a small hill, but in one part of area. Helmand and Arghandab Valley Develop- the citadel a few roonls have reniainctl ill ment Schemes, with a mod err^ hotel ant1 goocI condition. 1 Grishk several administrative and residential Below the hill, there was a killtl of 1 After crossitlg 122 kilonletres oc buildings for the enlployees. The new amphitheatre, with an arch on one sitle. moslly deserts, you conle to Grishk, a mosque recently built there is also wcrth The great Sultan, and later his son alltl real oasis consisting of a little thriving seeiug. successor, Masoud, used to celebrate tile town and irrigation works. You sl~ould Here it is up to you to decide whelher festival of Sadda here with their generals, stay here for a couple of days in order you should see the irrigation schenies at poets, historians, painters, scribes :~ll,j to see the Helmand and Arghandab NadC Ali, Darwishan, Marja, Shamalan, courtiers. The Sadda was :I festival of A Valleys where vast irrigation and power etc., or visit the historical places at Kala sollgs and wine at which eminent poets Bist and Lashkari Bazaar. used to read their poems, ll~ostlyin praise C( 1 schemes are under way. rt / There is a lovely cafC near the dam in Koln Bist oi the Sultan's conquests, and were giverl Kala Bisl was the winter capital of the lavish prizes in cash or kind. A110tIier I" Grishk, which you shoulcL see before 11 leaving for Lashkargah. Also, if you are Gl~aznavid Emperor, Sultan Malimoud fealure of the festival was large bonfires. Tllc arch has been repaired in recent 11 a keen fisherman, you should try your (998-1030) whose patronage of arts and It: learning is well known. It is said that years, with its design and tile-work beauti- luck either at the Boghra Canal or at the C( 400 fully preserved. nlighty Hel~llandriver. once he had about poets at his court. :I 1 Tire Boghra Carrc~lCnfd. cr u nibled Lashkargah was the military cantonnlent le part of of the Sultan's well-organised army atld n~ainedin consisted ol several barracks. Lashkari Bazaar was the shopping centre of the town; both places having been richly L kind of decorated with glazed tiles ant1 miniature one side. paintings done by the best artists of the r son and time. The Kabul Museu111 has allottetl :brate the separate chambers to the fir~clsfrom here. . generals, .ibes and estival of The tlelrnand and Arglianclab Valleys ,en1 poets comprise hundreds of acres reclainled in I in praise recent years, three dams for irrigation and /ere give11 power, vasl experimental and aninial Ar~otber husbandry farms. Farming settlements . bonfires. have been organised to absorb the land- in recent less peasants from other paris of the rk beauti- country ancl also attract the nonlads to a scttled mode 01 life. The Authority which supervises the progress of both sclie~nesin thcse valleys, has opened a number of schools, runs several hospitals and clinics, and has intro- ducecl modern sanitation and way of life to local inhabitants. It also grants credits ancl lends seeds to the settlers in ortler to help them in overcomi~lgfarming difficul- ties, among them the problenl of salinity. Kandohor city. Here, as well as elsewhere in the It was brought here by Ahrned Shah from Kandahar lies 122 kilometres to the province, the tourist can take good Bokhara, which he had conquered, and south-west of Grishk and is a very photographs of the tall, brown, snliling the shrine is visited by hundreds of important commercial centre of the Kandaharis in their traclitional costurnes. people, mostly wclnien. The tomb of ccluntry. The old town built by Ahmed Shah Ahmed Shah is a mag~lificent building The Kandahar Hotel is almost always Durrani (1747-1773) has been straddled with many excellent decorations and Pull and advance booking is necessary by new streets, but parts of the walls, the inscriptions inside. His helmet and coat either from Europe or Teheran. The Khirka, and Ahmed Shah's tomb are still of arms are kept here to remind the climate here is not as hot as in Farah, intact. visitor of his chivalry. Another monu- but is quite warm. Most people 'close Monuments ment of note in Icandahar is the Chel their shops in the late afternoon and take The Khirka is a sacred shrine where Zina, which has 40 steps and a niche, and a stroll in the straight streets of the new Mohammed's shirt has been preserved. was carved in a mountain near the city pudding served with ground pistachio, I by the order of Emperor Baber (1526- Afghnnistcrn's Orchard 1530), and gives a wonderful view of the Kandahar, with the Arghandab Valley and very delicious in taste. Lamb in I town and part of the valley below. lying near it, is the orchard of Afg11:ini- Kandahar is very tender but has a lot The mausoleum of Mir Wais Hotaki stan. The best grapes, apricots, pome- nlore fat than elsewhere. Restaurants i1 (1709-1715) lies at Kokaran outside granates and figs are grown here, ant1 serve all kinds of Afghan meals. The typical soup is "shorwa," which is i 1Candahar. He was founder of the nlostly exported abroad. The best 1 Hotakid dynasty which overthrew the raisins the country produces are called famous, but is rather greasy for I foreigners. Kebabs are also good here, 1 Iranian rule and established the Afghan Shindokhani, which are greener and Kingdom at Kandahar. In fact, it was longer than the ordinary sultanas. The but not always the best. he, and later Alimed Shah, who gave so local dried apricots, " shakar para " much prominence to Kandahar that it sugar flakes, are mostly exported to Buys became the capital of Afghanistan up to India. The Kandahari pomegranates are Things to buy here include special J the middle of the 18th century. both sweet and sour in taste and cannot kinds of saildais for summer. They are I! be matched by other varieties. open at the toes and heels, and are Scenic Plmes beautifully embroidered. Also, other I Special Food pieces of lovely embroidery, such as table- (I Places of scenic beauty in Kandahar are the Sardeh Park and the Baba Wali A speciality of Kandahari food is a cloths, scarves, dresses, etc., are available I Cafi, the former providing a cool spot in dish called " firni." It is a kind of rice in the bazaars. Prices are quite reason- 11 the heat of summer and the latter over- I looking the town and around. Sardel~ I ' Park, especially, is a must for tourists,

/:;I /:;I because it lies at the bank of the I I Argl~andabriver and is full of different 'j trees and flowers. Fishing is also i excellent here and the restaurant run by , the local n~unicipalityis quite well fur- nished and cornforlable. ! '

Kandaharis are more adventurous than Heratis. They enjoy strolling in the streets in the afternoon, going to picnics on Friday, which is the Moslem Sabbath, and some of them go all the way to I Grishk for hunting and duck shooting. i & i Gadis and bicycles are highly decorated here and everybody takes pride in being clean and attractive. Most men, except the government en~ployeesand students, I grow beards, some of them beauliful and jet black. listachio, >amb in 3s a lot ,taurants Is. The 'llich is ~sy for 3d here.

special 'hey are ind are , other 1s table- vailable reason-

Tlie Karrdahnr Hofrl is alrvnys crowded ortd needs expcrnsion.

TIIP tern~il~albziildirrfi of tlze Ka~tdaliar I17lernatiorzol Airport constructed wit17 United States assistance. Tlte building was so designed to preserve some characterisfics of tile AJgl7nn urcl7itecturnl style.

able.considering the quality of the unique thing unique in the whole region. Kandahari art. As it will shorten the flying Lime Afghan ladies usually buy their face belween East and West by one hour, powder in Kandahar. It is called Kandahar will become the halting place " sfeda" and is very useful in avoQing for the main jet airliners which connect wrinkles on the face. Old ladies prepare the Orient with the Occident. it in their special ovens by their tradi- Facilities tional methods, and it is a good buy. Near the new town of Kandahar lies Air-port Manzel Bagh, a vast compound where In recent years, an internalional airport the Helnland and Arghandab Valleys has been planned in Kandahar, the con- Aulhority have their installatio~ls to struction work of which will soon be repair cars, tractors, bulldozers, etc. completed. Equipped with all sorts of Pleasant chalets have been built here to facilities such as restaurants, hotels, a house some of the American engineers hospital, post office, repair shops, filling of the Authority with their families. The stal.ions, etc., the airport will be some- restaurant here is also open for tourists but the rates are the same ;IS j11 thc The alrnond produced in Kalat is of wonderful collector's item to decorate a United States. There is also it switnming the ]lard-shelled type, but it has two lounge, or can be worn to keep out the pool in the con~poundwhich can be used advantages : it is produced in abundance. cold in mid-winter. in the heat of summer. and is exported by all means of transport. Fighting Tigers Industries Therefore it is cheaper, but still tastes the The Kalitis have a unique use for Among the industries are the Watan same as the illore expensive types. kossays. They use them as shields. Wool Factory, producing the best Kossay is the name given to the unique When food is scarce in winter, hungry woolleils in the whole region, the Pashtun voluminous cloaks which are worn by tigers and wolves come down the plain Company, producing sweets and ice, and men in winter. They are made of white prowling after sheep. A Kalati will the Frhit Preserving & Canning Factory. felt with lotlg flat sleeves and are gener- generally meet the tiger with a club and Three days' stay in Kandahar is ally embroidered in purple silk. The pound it, and meet the wolves with his advisable in order to see the people and sleeves are only for decoration and have bare hands, strangling them. But the places and enjoy the view of the scenic particularly beautiful patterns worked illdispensable kossay is used to catch the spots bursting with flowers. around studded pieces of mirror. claws of the lerocious raiders. Leaving Knndnlznr. In order to buy a good kossay, one has Mukmr On leaving Kandahar, one should make to consult one or two experts, but the After Kalat comes Mukur, 117 kilo- sure that tlre car is in good running con- quality of felt and the type of embroidery ~netresto the north-east of Kalat, and the dition as there are no adequate repair usually do not escape unnoticed by a main halting place for buses running stations until you reach Kabul. Also, Western trriveller. And it makes a between Kabul and Kandahar. your stock of petrol, food and fruit should be replenished. The most suitable time A cnrova/i of Kochis oil the move lenvi~lgthe cold plaitis jor. 1vor1?1 pnstures. to start the journey in summer is early in the morning, as the intense heat later in the day is apt to overheat motor tyres on certain patches of the road. I(a1at Kalat or Kalat6 Ghilzai is 138 kilo- inetres to the north-east of Kandahar, and has an old citadcl on top of a hill and a slllall hotel. Kalat is farnous for three things : the world-fanlous Afghan Iround, almonds and " kossay ." The tall, shaggy, good-looking Afghan hound is a native of Kalat, and is used for fox hunting. It is known throughout Afghanistan as " tazi." Unfortunately, there are no kennels in Kalat, but it is just possible to find an Afghan hound owner who is willing to part with his pet for hard cash. Tacvkhano or breakdowns go to the tea-shops where Mukuris are tall, strong and handsome they eat and sleep cheaply. Only a few people and like Kalitis, they have their visitors use the hotel and occupy the own peculiar central heating system, as rooms which are obviously more comfort- se for the area is cold most of the time. able, and enjoy privacy. ihields. This system is known as " tawkhana," Tourists generally replenish their petrol hungry and involves a very cheap way of direct- stock from here, and shop for all manner : plain ing smoke through a labyrinth of under- of things from cigarettes to dried fruits. ti will ground channels. Bushes are either They also make telephone calls to Kabul ib and collected in summer or bought cheaply to book accomn~odationand so on if they ith his and stored for a rainy day. When the have not already done so. ut the intense cold weather sets in some of the Abe' Istacln :ch the bushes are fed to a furnace which leads There are 11 1 kilometres between to the channels. The smoke travels under Mukur and Ghazni. En route to Ghazni, the floors of the house, and is stored there if you turn off to the right for a few kilo- ' kilo- for 24 hours. Thus the Mukuris are not metres you will come to one of the mosl nd the bothered by the Siberian winter around striking bird sanctuaries in Afghanistan. ~nning them once they are inside a tawkhana, This place is called " AbC Istada," which which literally means " heat house." means " the Standing Water." The lake BUYS is big and the water is extremely saline, What has made Mukur renowned with islands here and there which are throughout the country is not its taw- ideal for nesting. Almost all kinds of khana but its beautiful rugs known as migratory and other birds of the " gelain." temperate zone are seen here. Woven mostly by women, these rugs Zoology students from Kabul Univer- are made of the best wool produced sity visit the place every year to observe locally. The dyeing is also carried out the birds, while casual tourists pass by it locally, and the price of the finished without knowing of its existence because article is far below that of a medium of its out-of-the-way location. carpet. And it is a sheer delight to have Kmez A typical Pnkht~t~zboy. in a sitting room with its traditional fast The area between Mukur and Ghazni colours of orange, red, green and purple, is well populated and quite fertile, but so matching with modern Western water is scarce throughout the region furniture. after Kandahar. The underground imga- Ghazni was the seat of the vast empire Hotel tion ditches known as " karez" serve as founded by Mahmoud (998-1030) and The little hotel in Mukur, like that in the life arteries of the scattered farm- was flourishing between the early 10th Kalat, cannot cope with the increasing houses. The principal crop is wheat, and and mid-12th centuries. number of visitors, but there is always a plums are the main fruit. Especially the Mahmoud built beautiful mosques, way out. plunis grown in Ghazni and the suburbs palaces and cantonments and decorated People who travel in winter and have are the best in the country and mostly the city with objets dart which his to halt at Mukur because of heavy snows exported to the Indian sub-continent. victorious army had brought back fro~n I various counlries. He commissioned here, and it is more than worthwhile to Ferdousi to compose " Shahnameh," spend an afternoon at Khwaja Bulghar in the Book of Kings, which is an order to enjoy the cool fresh air of the immortal epic of Persian literature. plain in summer. He also changed the lingua frunca from Travellers who are keen on fishing Arabic to Persian and his court historian, usually go to Bandt Sultan, a few kilo- Baihaki, recorded almost all of his metres from the town, to catch catfish at military and cultural achievements. the dam. Hotel Tlze Wo1.1d Burner. The Ghadni Hotel, like other small Unfortunately f G r Afghanistan, hotels, is run by the local municipality. J Alauddin, a ruler from the rival Ghurid ILis situated on a small elevation near tile 1 j Dynasty, raided the city and burned it to main road and is very suitable for the ground in order to avenge the murder shopping and sigfitsecing. ! of his brother. Hls name has been Moizunzents Foods smeared thereafter, and is referred to as Nothing is more historical in Ghazni The best food Gl~azni can offer the " Jehansoz," which means the World than the mausoleun~ of Mahmoud him- tourist is kebab in the bazaar. As the Burner. For Ghazni was a world of arts I self. Known as " Rowza," the mauso- land is exlren~ely fertile and there is 1 i and learning only rivalled then by leum lies in an orchard filled with the plenty of pasture land, the Ghazili lamb 1 k Baghdad. famous plum trces. It is altogether a enjoys a nation-wide reputalion for being ! 1; The Citadel pleasant place, and if you care to make tender and juicy. The yoghurt is also The Ghazni citadel, now headquarters an arrangement with the keeper, you can good, while the vegetables, especially of the local garrison, dominates the whole see the historical finds preserved in the radishes, spring onions and local leeks ;I " ill of the little town and its suburbs. small museum in the compound. gandana," are the best jn the country. Down below the bazaars are narrow Other items of historical interest are Buys ;I/I and always crowded. Most of the towns- the two pillars, which are the only The best buys in Ghazni are " postins," ll! people have a strain of Mongolian in their tangible relics of Ghazni's past glory, and " postinchas" and mcn's socks and gloves. i features, while those from rural areas, the mausoleuin of Sanai, the great poet The postin is a long fur coat, shaggy especially the Suleimankhels, are tall and of the Ghaznavid era. Recently the and heavy, with lamb fur inside and ,'I , I ,most handsome. The citizens of Ghazni Italian archaeological mission has been yellowish suede out. It is generally still live in the old city, surrounded by able to unearth a few important finds at enlbroidered with yellow silk on the lapels 1, walls which are broad enough to accom- Tapeh Sardar. and sleeves. Men of the older genera- modate an entire house built upon them. Scenic Becruties tions, especially those living in the rural :I The new town lies near the petrd Ghazni, like Herat, is full of the tombs areas, still use postins in winter. i j/ station before one reaches the bazaar. It of famous saints who led a pious life in Although cumbersome, they are actually I j is a planned residential area, with build- their time and tried to guide the people like a hothouse. If you have one, you will ,,: not need any form of heating, even in /;i ings designed to meet modern require- on the path of truth. One of these was Khwaja Bulghar, who Scandinavia. ;,/ ments. But it still takes time to persuade !!I the old conservative people to move from was buried at the foot of a hill over- Blankets of the same fur are known as ! ti the city built by the Great Mahmoud to looking the Ghazni plain. " jafari," and can be made to order. I :'I . , live in a place planned by ordinary men. The local municipality has built a cafC Postincha is actually the best buy here I :I ~orthwhile1, as it is shorter than the postin and there- for its beauty, its hydro-electric plant, .ja Bulghar ir. fore lighter. Also it is less expensive which feeds Kabul. and the easy fishing sh air of ]h: while more attractive. one can do near the dam. There is a A postincha is usually sleeveless and hotel overlooking the man-made lake and 1 on fishin! reaches the hip. The fur inside is of a this is frequented by employees of the , a few kilo. finer quality, and the embroidery more Afghan Electric Company in summer. tch catfisha! lavish and neatly patterned. Thc suede The people of Maidan and Wardag are is n~ostlyof yellow colour, but recently excellent " attan " dancers and participate dark bluc, beige and other shades have in displays arranged during the inde- other small also been introduced. The best postincl~a pendence celebrations in Kabul. municipality. can be purchased in Ghazni for £2. Kab~llat Lust! tion near lhr Men's socks are generally knitted in suitable fo1 Kabul, the capital of the Kingdom of Jaghori and other areas and brought for Afghanistan, is an ancient city whose sale in Ghazni. They are made of strong history goes back to the fifth century B.C. 11ome-spun wool and have different The city is llanled after the river which in offer [he colours such as black, white, beige, passes through it and divides its two main ar. As tht purple and yellow. You can buy these sectors. In full spate from winter to A view of the historic citadel oj Balahissar. 11 nd there is socks and also good quality woollen summer, it was called Kobha " full of 3hazni lan~b gloves for as little as 2s. 6d. a pair. water" by the early Aryans when they Dn for beil~g The Ghazni plum, fresh or dried, has first caught sight of it during their zurt is also to be tasted to be believed. It makes migration. , especially every dish, more especially meat dishes, The ancient city lies south of the river local leeks very delicious and exotic. and is dominated by the citadel, with its .he country. Between Gl~nzniof~d KaBltl back to a mountain. It is composed of There is a distance of 149 kilonletres mud houses, a few covered bazaars and : 'L postins: between Ghazni and Kabul. The road, narrow alleys, some of which have already and gIoves unlike some stretches between Kandahar been demolished to leave their place to oat, shagg) and Ghazni, passes through some beauti- modern constructions. inside and ful valleys. Despite its antiquated living quarters 3 generally The main halting places on the way are and old-fashioned shops, this part of the an the lapels Shikhabad and Arghandeh, the former town, which is locally known as "the jer genera. being more favourably situated. The two City," has retained most of its hold on n the rural valleys of Wardag and Maidan are very the nation's business. A great number in winter. rich in natural beauty; crystal-clear of wholesalers, brokers and big business- .re actually men have their offices or shops in places Pnvt of the Ariuna boolcirzg ofice on the ground streanls full of fish, rows of poplar trees, poor of Hotel Kab~1.1. le, you will cool, fresh air and handsome tall Pakh- called " sarais." These sarais are rect- ~g,even In tuns inhabiting the villages. angular compounds with shops at ground important shopping centre here is Off the main road turning to the left, level and of3ces on the first floors on all Maiwand Street, with almost all kinds of : known as one can go to Sarchasina and Jalrez, sides. New sarais built on the other side merchandise on sale. order. which are even more attractive. of the river have, however, changed this The other side of the river, which st buy here Chak, a valley in Wardag, is famous emphasis to a certain extent. The most includes the new town, Shark Now, has a different character. It has straight, wide streets, banks, cinemas, theatres, schools and colleges and a number of hospitals. Also the " Arg " or the compound encom- passing the Gulkhana PaIace and other royal buildings; all foreign enlbassies and trading firms are located here. Mon~il7?elzts No monulnent in Kabul is of greater importance that1 Arg, which is surrounded by marble walls, in the Arg Gardens. Built by Amir Abdur Rahman, it has been subjected to several reconstnlctions. In fact, the present King, His Majesty Mohammed Zallir Shah, has renovated most of it and has built the Gulkllana The fertninczl Buildirzg oj the Kablrl airport completed with xlle help oj the So\gict ~t~io~,. Palace towards the north of Arg, and also The Buildirrg has facilities for 300 passengers. the Royal Guards Buildings to the south. llanking the fashionable Pakhtunistan iiidications of several stupas belonging for ofice and factory workers, and to help Avenue. to the second and third centuries A.D. the public to synchroaise their watches. Ever since it was first built, the Arg Well preserved, these stupas are nearer During Ramadan, when the people do has been used by the Kings of Afghanistan to present-day Kabul. On the ridges not cat in the day-time, the gun goes off as thc roy~lresidence and has always the of the mountain there stands a 20- at dusk and dawn, respectively to Royal Secretariat, the bodyguards, tlie metre high monument of the Kushan announce the end and the beginning of treasury vaults and the royal library. period, forn~erlydecorated with Chakari, tlie fasting period in 24 hours. To the east side of Arg lies the meaning a wheel-a sacred symbol of On special occasions such as Ids and Delkusha Palace, built by Amir Buddhism. To tlie south-west of the so on, the gun goes off more illan once Habibullah, which is still used as the stupns there is another monument known in a specified time and in succession. royal office where ioreign envoys present as Surkh Munar, which is in the form of Surrounrli~zg Wcrlls their letters of credence and Afghan a minaret. To the south-east of Kabul lies a green oficials and others are granted audiences Tlze Midcloy Gun elevation ki~ownas thc " Emerald Hill," by His Majesty. One of the distinguishing features cf joined on either side by remnants of old Kabul of the Buddhist period is of Kabul from other cities in Aighanistan is walls surrounding the city. This hill was imnlense interest to archaeologists and the gun which is fired from the top of a the site of Kabul Citadel, " Bala Hisar," those taken with matters relating to the hill every midday. It does not disturb the serving as a stronghold as well as the antiquities. It lies 12 kilometres to the Afghans, who have been accustomed to royal residence from pre-Islamic periods south-east of tlie present Kabul, the site it, but it is quite startling for tourists and until 1879, when the second British being referred to as Chakari. As one outsiders. invasion was launched. The royal goes to Bini Hisar, one has to walk three A part of everyday life in Kabul, the residence was inside the stronghold, while kilometres to reach Chakari. In the iuidday gun serves two purposes: to the latter was surrounded by living KabuI of the Buddhist period there are announce the midday, whiclt is lunch hour quarters which were fortified and almost ,nlact until the first half of the nineteenth cenlury. On the outskirts of the citadel the Military Academy, built in recent years. Beyond the citadel and in the nlountain there lies the public cemetery where Tan~illl, a compallion of the Prophet, was martyred in pre-Islamic days and was buried. Close to Taminl's mausoleunl there is a rippling stream known as Khizr, and both places attracl the citizens of Kabul in the early spring. The Kabul walls, built on the ridges of Sher Darwaza and Asmayee mountains, were erectecl in the fifth century A.D., in the reign of the Ephtalite kings, who wanted to surround the city with defensive fortifications. Fortunately enough, the

) help greater part of these walls are still stan- ies. ding, showing the long history of Kabul. 11e do New Constr.uctioizs as off Ghazi Mohammed Jan Khan Street, Y to Replica of tile Alexnrrdrio Lighthorlsr datir~!: which connects two parts of the town, back to the 1st cerllur.y A.D. ~~tzenrihed01 ng of has greatly enhanced the beauty of Kabul, Bagrnnz. as it is planned to be flanked on either Sfrrrrre of n sitfirtg Buddha discovered at s and side by illodern shops and offices with Haddn, Nangnrirnr P~.ovirzce. Persian, and some beautiful miniatures once almost every amenity. Such buildings, representing Herat school of painting. n. some of which are already finishcd and seem to have adjusted themselves to such Finds from Bamyan, Bagram, Funduki- others in the process of being completed, caresses of Mother Nature. The tremors stan, Lashkargah and Surkh Kotal have green include the Kabul Municipality building, are usually over in a matter of secoilds separate rooms as they are so numeraus HilI," the Commercial Bank, the Spinzar build- and the hustlc and bustle of the town is that arranging a selection of them to be ,f old ing, etc. hardly disturbed. displayed in one room is not feasible. 1 was The tallest construction in present-day Kabul Museunz Now the finds from Ghazni are to be isar." Kabul is the Central Silo building, which The famed Kabul Museum lies 10 kilo- added to these treasures. s the is nine storeys high. The reason why tall metres to the south-west of Kabul in the The museum is planning to print a :riods buildings are not generally constructed is, lovely Chardehi valley. It has sections for guide book in various Western languages lritish presumably, the frequency of earth numismatics, ethnology and ethnography. and also some postcards for the benefit royaI tremors, which prove quite startling to Its showcases encompass a wealth of relics of tourists in general and historians in while foreigners but does not bother the Kabulis. ranging from gold and silver coins of the particular. living In some cases houses are rocked like ancient Greek rulers of Afghanistan to the Hotels lmost boats in the English Channel, but they rare manuscripts both in Pakhtu and Hotel Kabul is a first class hotel-the .$( besl in Afghanistan. The charge is 4 approximately £2 per night with break- 41 fast, and the restaurant downstairs serves 1 i ? r lunch and dinner. I1 is ideally situated within easy walking distance of the Kabul I i ' I Cinema, the Ministry of Press and Infornlation and the two main banks. The olher hotels recommended to tour- J ists are the Spinzar, the Ariana and the Maiwand, which are cheaper and quite t pleasant, but not in the centre of the town. !I I ,jll FOO~ '111 Varietics of meals are served in the ((1; $11 restaurants for Iunch and dinner. A foreigner staying at a hotel is adviscd to j, avail hin-~selfof the self-service restaurant near the Kabul Hotel. This is the Khyber , , I Restaurant, which is Kabul's first and forenlost catering organisation, setting a '111 precedent for the local businessmen who previously thought that such a venture *; 11 could not pay. Both tourists and Afghans can see and buy allnost all kinds of con- /1I) ventional Western meals and the cost k \ I is quite reasonable. Also, in cleanliness carpets of different sizes and prices, so easy Lo have a karakul coat made to order a and comfort it rates as high as a first class beautifully woven and finished; jewellery, in one week or so and take it home. j jj restaurant anywhere in the world. including lapis lazuli, for which the Afghan goldsmiths and tailors are good \ Halfway to Paghman, there is another country is so famous, postinchas, socks at their jobs; so one can order a ring made I! beautiful restaurant, the Spozhmay, which and gloves, beauliful Kandal~arifabrics of lapis lazuli in a specified design, or gives the tourist anlple vis~alexperience for making jackets, all kinds of packed have a suit made to measure. I' as to the inside of a typical Afghan home. dried fruits and nuts, especially " jal- Tourist Olganisotion 1 / The Afghan rugs, the pieces of furniturc, ghoza," which presun~ablydoes not grow The Afghan Tourist Organisalion, . I i etc., are extremely tasleful, while the anywhere else; a wealth of ancient coins locally known as " Garzendoy," looks ]I !/ Iocation of the restaurant on the bank of in gold and silversmiths' shops; shawls after tourists before and after their arrival an arlificial lakc is excellent. and costumes so colourful and exotic, in the country. I j Buys shoes and hats, pieces of embroidery with All potential tourists, especially writers I Kabul is so rich in Afghan merchandise unique designs representing diffcrent and scholars, should get in tonch with this that the tourist is often bewildered about parts of the country, and so on. An end- organisation before their arrival in order , 4 , I what to choose. Varieties of karakul less assortn~ent. to inake all the necessary arrangements '1 peIts in black, grey, brown, beige and The Afghan customs do not charge for their visits. Those who arrive in I :I white for coats and hats, and all so cheap; visitors for one of each product and it is Kabul without prior arrangements, con- tact this ofice to let tl~emknow about Scetric Places their arrival and if they need accommoda- Lying on the western outskirts of Slier tion. Darwaza mountain, the Babur Gardens All foreigners are required to register are famous in the south-western suburbs with the police, and the Tourist Organisa- of Kabul. They are only two kilometres tion helps them in this connection, as well away. Terraced as they are, the second as in other respects. They have cars, part of the gardens serves as a royal buses, camping equipment, etc., for hire, cemetery, where the progenitor of the and guides who speak foreign languages Moghal kings, Zahiruddin Mohammed in order to provide them with facilities Hakim Mirza, has been buried. On the and interpret for them in shops and third terrace stands a snlall mosque built offices. of marble in the reign of Shah Jahan, The Tourist Organisation is so suitably being under repair at the moment. With situated in Pakhtunistan Square that tour- a pleasant swimming pool and a cafC, the ists can walk in a matter of minutes to Babur Gardens prove to be a public the Afghanistan Bank to get local attraction all through the summer. currency, to the Ministry of Press and Another factor which has recently added Information to obtain information about to their popularity is the municipal the country and to the Telephone and attention towards laying out gardens. In Cable Ofice to get in touch with their other words, the Kabul municipality make homes. some elaborate arrangements on the first

The Kabul Nindarai Theofre flf Chn~na~z,Kobul. de to order t home. :s are good . ring made design, or

'ganisation, day of every new year at the Babur 3y," looks Gardens to observe the ceremonies of the leir arrival " Spring Fair." Two kilometres to the south of Babur ~llywriters Gardens lies the Chelsotoon Palace, n :h with this handsome building situated 011 a hill and 11 in order surrounded by its own park, and enjoying. cangenlenb the view of the pretty Chardehi valley. ' arrive in Nine kilometres from the city lies the lents, con. Taj Beg Palace, built high up on a hill. also overlooking the Chardel~ivalley. reaches Paghman, one sees another In the eastern suburbs of Kabul is the ~nag~lificentpark and a summer palace Maranjan hill-an historical place where which His Majesty the King gave away some indications of the past have recently to the public. been unearthed. On the southern Fifteen kilometres to the south-west of extremity of this hill lies the marble Kabul there is a cool, pleasant place mausoleum of the late King Nadir Shah. called Rishkhoar, in the cenlre of which father of the present King of Afghanistan. there is a park in which stands an This imposing monument overlooks the imposing building erected by His Royal city oE Kabul. Highness Sardar Shah Mahmood Khan. The park is terraced and shady, and Khwaja Safa is a tiny summer resort planted with flowers, and has been pro- south of Kabul on the outskirts of the vided with a swimming pool which is Sher Darwaza mountains. It has only open to tile public. one small building and a pigeon house, Whilst hiking in this park is generally and is surrounded by juda trees. It is well worth seeing in spring time when the allowed, foreigners are required to obtain trees are in flower. special per~ilission to use the swimming puu1.+.-,.I As one passes Rishkhoar, one reaches Paghman is a summer resort which lies the Lalundar gorge, through which the 27 kilometres to the west ol Kabul on Kabul river passes with foam and fury, the outskirts ol: high mountains. It enjoys especially in the spring. woilclerful weather and beautiful scenery. Twelve kilometres to the east of Kabul The cool air, the picturesque beauty and lies a big park and playing grounds the rippling springs make Paghman a known as Bagrami. The park is beauti- public attraction in summer time. The fed by a tributary of the Logar river public garden in the centre of Paghnlan which passes through the centse. Dis- is surrounded by a number of private tinguished visitors and guests comi~zgto houscs and villas to let. Up on the ridge Kabul via Jalalabacl are received at this of the mountain there is a natural park. At the Bagrami Ground an annual lake which attracts mountailleers every contest of " Buzk:lshi " takes place on sunlnler to enjoy the snow-peaked ranges September 21st. Several teams of here and there. excellent horsemet1 from Inany provinces Eight kilometres to the south oE take part in the game, which celebrates Paghman lies another valley known as the Icing's birthday. of Begtoot, at the entrance of which stands The sport is a " must " for every visitor A cor~ler Tapnlt Pnrlc at Paghmnrl. a small building erected in the style as it demands superb horsemanship and fashionable in the reign of Abdur great courage, providing an exciting I~tdif Rahman. Referred to as Sohayl, the spectacle of more than a hundred riders Fifty kilometres to the north of Kabul buiIding overlooks Paghinan and Kabul str~~gglingto obtain a calf, the object of lies the beautiful valley of Istalif, which, from a dominating location. Before one the wllole game. like Paghrnan, is the summer resort for the cilizens of Kabul. beauty, indications of Buddhist stupas Set against the background of the and a tower. majestic Hindukush, the town of Istalif Legend has it that some sort of cable is famous for its pottery. Most homes in connected Tope Dara with Bagram in the the surrounding areas and some in Kabul old days, presumably during the possess one or more pieces such as bowls, Kushanid period, and both centres of ashtrays, vases, flower pots, etc., made of Buddhist culture and religion signalled clay and gIazed in turquoise. messages to each other by pulling on this The public park in Istalif, known as cable. Takht, is an excellent cool spot in hot Mir Bacl~nkote(Smai Khojrr) summers and it is always crowded by people coming to picnic here from Kabul. Mir Bachakote, the centre of Like Paghman, its special fruit is the Kohdaman, lies 32 kilonletres to the north of Kabul. The new small town has cherry, but it is called " shaloo " here. The cherries produced in both places are been well planned and has something of actually different from the Western everything, while the old bazaar is still variety as they are a bit smaller, crimson famous for its rice dishes. in colour, and far more tender and A halting place for con~n~utersbetween Kabul and Charikar, Mir Bachakote has The Khyber Restaurant nt Pnlclit~~nistnrzSqume which delicious. has set u good exnr?zple of the self-service system nnd always been important for travellers as cotering capabilities in Knbzll. Leaving Kabul well as transport. There is a lovely karez I On leaving Kabul for the northern near the old bazaar where travellers parts of the country, one passes by the quench their thirst. There are all kinds BaghC Bala Palace which was built by of fruits to be bought from the shops and King Abdur Rahman on top of a hill and street vendors, and also some small work- surrounded by vineyards. shops to repair minor mechanical faults Past thc hilI, one sees Badam Bagh, the on vehicles, and a filling slation. Almond Orchard, to the left, sprawling Surrounded by vineyards, each usually all the way from the main road to [he containing a tower, Mir Bachakote is rich skirt of another hill. and prosperous, because its products such After a few kilometres one passes as fresh grapes, peaches and raisins are through the Khair Khana Pass and down transported to Peshnwar by lorries over- the slope overlooking the green valleys of night. Kohdaman. Crate iuanufacturing is always busy in There are so many beautiful valleys to summer wlien the grapes begin to ripen, the left of the main road that an ordinary and grape merchants pitch their camps in tourist cannot see them all during the the vineyards to supervise the packing of The Spozlzmny Cafe' on the bnrzks of tlze nzan-mode ' short time he has allotted to the whole fresh grapes into the crates. Karghn lake half way between Kabrll and Pagl~nran. ! country. The more important of them, In the winter, travellers buy " kan- after Shakar Dara and Istalif, are Gul gina," a container which looks like a of Kabul through to the end of winter, but it is a 1 f, which, Dara, Farza, Sinjid Dara and Tope Dara. flying saucer and is filled with grapes. bit heavy and tricky to carry. :sort for The last valley has, besides its natural Made of clay, it preserves the grapes right The round wooden boxes of grapes 19 lined with cotton are preferable, but more Brrg~w1 i almost at the entrance of Salang Pass, I which will shorten the distance between expensive. Ten miles to the south-east of Charikar SP( Kabul and the northern provinces by 200 Char.ikar. is Bagram, the capital of the Kushanitl mc There are 32 kilometres between Mir empire. kilometres. the The local hotel is run by the Textile Bachakote and Charikar, the centre of Overlooking the green valley of foc Kohistan with Panjsher and Ghorbantl Company. anc Parwan Province. The road is as good as The only shortconling of Jabalsuraj, when it starts froin Kabul, and is flanked rivers straddling it, Bagram has yielded Bu part of its riches to the Kabul Museunl and for that matter of all Kohistan, is its om or1 either side by mulberry trees, a special strong wind which blows throughout the tree of Kohistan. in the form of ivory carvings, statues, lev The town of Charikar has been built coins, vases, etc. It was destroyed by three months of summer. cal on the slopes of a mountain dominating Cyrus, but was quite prosperous by the Gulbahar. one of the most beautiful valleys in the lime Alexander launched his conquest of Gulbahar, which means " Spring thi whole world-Kohistan. overlooking Afghanistan. Flower," is a real beauty spot almost at sid Charikar and the whole green world is Bagram is also famous for its melons, one end of Kohistan Valley, with a Takia which is quite an attraction in early known as "sarda," and water melons, Panjsher and Shotul rivers running evc spring when thousands of juda trees are which are sent to Kabul and also through it. People from Kabul and other abloom, painting the skirts of the moun- exported. parts not too distant spend their Fridays be: tain a deep purple. Opian here in the cool public park listening to so1 Tliere is a cafC at Takia and illany A few kilometres to the north-west of music or frying fish for lunch. de~ camping sites for picnickers and casual Charikar lies Opian, the site of one of the The greatest textile mill in the country to travellers. Many people go there on AIexandrias in this part of the country. has been built on an elevation opposite Gt Fridays to enjoy the blue sky above, the Opian is still an important place, with the park. It produces beautiful cotton wi purple juda trees, and the green valley many prosperous traders and a holy fabrics and attractive blankets. The fin below. shrine which is frequented by patients Textile Company runs a small hotel, at Buys suffering from rabies. According to the inaintains recreation facilities for its Gt Charikar is renowned for its cutlery. people who go there, the patient touches enlployees, and a swimming pool, as Therc are many shops selling all kinds of the chain attached to the shrine and gets swimming in the swift river which is full knives, cspecialIy the pocket ones. The rid of the disease. of boulders is rather treacherous. bull horn handles are so superbly shaped .lahulserctj Rig&Rawan and polished that they become quite Jabulseraj or the ancient Panvan, lies Opposite Charikar and on the other transparent, and sometimes reflect hand- to the north of Charikar and is becoming side of the valley lies Rig6 Rawan, the sonle colours. The nlanufacturer usually increasingly industrialised. " Moving Sand," which is a picnic ground places his name underneath the handle in It was here that the first hydro-electric for the people living beyond the river order to advertise his craft. power-house was built in the reign of Panjsher. Food King Habibullah. It was here also that A huge mass of soft yellow sand has arI Charikar's speciality in food is the late King built a second " Arg "; and been evenly spread on the slope of a Ta " falooda," which is a mixture of special in later years a textile mill and cement mountain dominating an area ideally Tt spongy flakes, cream, snow, sugar and plant were opened. suited for horse races. People visit this mi rose water. This inakes a delicious A beautiful valley with Shotul river place during spring fairs to do some Ja cooling drink, as well as a nourishing crossing through it, Jabulseraj is becom- shopping, watch the races and sometimes pli food. ing more important because it is situated climb the sands. an : Pass, It is, however, the young and the nlore Considering Afghan standards, both etween sporting types who attempt to cliinb the Kohdaman and Kohistan are over- by 200 moving sand because it is very high and populated and there is always annual the sand gives way under one's feet. The migration, especially from Charikar to Textile footprints leave big hollows in the sand, the northern parts of the country. and there are so many of them every day. Leaving Chmikw tlsuraj, But the next morning it is so smooth that On leaving Charikar for the northern I, is its one thinks that it has been mechanically provinces (Kataghan, Mazar, Badakh- ~utthe levelled. That is why the local people shan, Shiberghan, Talukan and Maimana) call it the moving sand. one should bear in mind that parts of the Perhaps the scientific explanation for road are under construction. Also petrol Spring this is that the wind blowing from one and repair stations are not available in nosl at side of the mountain is deflected in such each place. There is only one petrol station with a way that it spreads the sand evenly in Bolola and a station and hotel at .unning every day. Doab. From the beginning of Ghorband rl other There is a shrine down below which is up to the Shibar Pass, the road passes ?ridays believed locally to belong to one of the through a valley which is many times ling to sons of Caliph Ali. The shrine, built reduced to the size of a narrow gorge deep under the ground, is believed to lead with a swift stream running through it. to a subterranean tunnel ending in :ountry FQ~LL~OLLSBoillynn A view of Slralca~~iarelr,a lovely vu/le)j to the pposite Ghazni. According to legends, two cats There is a distance of 181 kilometres IIUI.!/Iof Kohl~l. cotton with identifying rings were left there to between Charikar and Bamyan. Those The find their way out, and they were found who are not in a particular hurry, stop for hotel, at another shrine belonging to Bahlol in lunch at Chardi Ghorband where one can for its Ghazni. find a number of typical restaurants and >ol, as Another legend about Rigt Rawan is good meals. is full that when Hindus and Sikhs come to pay The road winds between narrow gorges their homage, a loud noise of beating almost all along the way up to Shibar drums is heard by everyone, despite the Pass (2,809 m.) which gives a newcomer fact that it is a Moslenl shrine. And the : other a good impression of stupendous heights an, the place is frequently visited by these and the skill of Afghan drivers in nego- ground minorities. tiating the hairpin bends with their 5 river People generally overloaded lorries. The people of Kohdaillan and Kohistan There are 32 kilometres between nd has are almost half Pakhtuns and the rest are Bolola and Bamyan, the former being a : of a Tajiks, and some of Turkish origin. halting place for passengers from the ideally There are sizable Hindu and Sikh com- northern parts of the country. The route sit this munities in Mir Bachakote, Charikar, to Bamyan takes a left turning from the. some Jabulseraj, and also in other less known main road, and on entering the valley one ~etimes places. They are generally shop keepers finds out the tremendous difference and smart businessmen. between the rather monotonous scenery Rig6 Raiva~l,the nlovirig sand ill Kuhis/nrl. 81 accompanying the iravellcr from thc Am entrance of Sllikari up to the Shibar Pass, not: and the vigorous and cheerlul views wit- alw nessed in the Barnyan Valley. thei Will1 its deep valleys, mineral springs k and mountain lakes, Bamyan is 2,583 pro metres above sea level. plet The main attraction of Ban~yan,apart Bol from its natural beauty, game-trout fish- DOC ing and partridge shooting-is the exis- I tcrlce here of two gigantic statues of Buddha. Carved in alto relicf on the facc Afl of the rock 400 ft. apart, the larger of colt the two (53 metres high) is now mutilated, the both of his legs fractured and thc face the destroycd. The smaller statue (35 metres 1 high) believed to be a female, but dressed sl'r in a mantle. has not been so badly but damaged. SOU anc Apart from the two statues, there are more than ten thousand caves, some of Do them painted, a geological formation reselnbling a dragon, and remains of two bet cities of the Islanlic era razed to the per ground by Ghengez Khan's armies. w 11 One hundred and eighty kilometres pla from Kabul via Hajigak, Bamyan was a great Buddhist centre between the first pal and fourth centuries, and thousands of Barnyan Valley. pa! rnonks lived in the caves cbanting liy~nns be( Bnrtdk Anzir metres from Bamyan, Band t Amir's lea from Buddhist scriptures. Besides, it was Band6 Amir co~nprisesa series of five largest lake is called Zulfikar which is visited by pilgrims from all parts of the Sa' lakes contained in rock bowls high up in first Lo come into view. cot then Buddhist world, including China and a basin. The lapis colour of the water, The Afghan Tourist Organisation is Korea. the orange-red hue of the surrounding planning to build a modern hotel on the Hotel soil, the white tint of the cascades splash- banks of this lake to accommodate The Bamyan Hotel is run by the ing down below and flowing on a milky various visitors atid holidaymakers. Afghan Tourist Organisation. It was white bed, the desolate but glorious view Meanwhile, camping is prevalent here built many years ago on a dominant of the mountains and plains all make this almost throughout summer, with fishing spot facing the great statues. More place an ideal spot for tourists and and swimming being the main sports. accommodation is needed for the increas- holidaymakers alike. Back to Bolola ing number of visitors every year. One hundred and forty-three kilo- There is no petrol station in Band6 Amir. In fact it is only the lakes and Province and the end of Parwan. So one nothing else at present. Tourists are can see here different faces and varying always advised to make provision for costumes. their petrol when they leavc Bamyan. The predominant feature of Kataghan, Also when departing for the northern and also of Mazar and Maimana, is the provinces, petrol stocks should be re- " chapan," a long cloak with thick cotton plenished for the 340 kilometres between lining. It has long slecves and usually Bolola and Doab. no pockets. The material is n~ostlystripy Doab and sometimes silken, and of very attrac- Doab is actually the Grand Canyon of tive colours. Kabulis use it in winter to Afghanistan, where one can see various ward off the severe cold, while in the colours and rock formations on entering northcm provinces, it is the clothing. the valley and also froill the hotel built People here believe that warm clothes there years ago. repel warmth. Perhaps it helps them to There is some duck shooting in early perspire easily and therefore cools their spring in thc shallow waters of the river, bodies off. but the frogs here produce the same Prtle' Khunzri sound as ducks which is quite interesting There are 48 kilometres between Doshi and misleading too. and Pult Khumri, one of the most indus- Dosl~i trial towns of Kataghan. There is a distance of 91 kiloilletres The town is surrounded by low-lying between Doab and Doshi. Therefore hills with the Kunduz river flowing from petrol should be replenislled at Doab, one side of it. while Doshi should be used as a halting PulC Khumri is actually a textile town place. with everything geared to the mills. The The Doshi town is growing rapidly, Afghan Textile Company has here its partly because of so many passengers second largest modern factory, run by passing through it every day, and partly electricity produced from a hydro-electric because it is a juilction for the main road power plant built across the Kunduz .mir's leading to the northern provinces and the river. Bande' Amir., a touris1 atlraclio~rnear Bantyan. ch is Salang road, which is still under There is a well laid-out public park construction. with a cafC on the bank of the river. The part of the country. 111 is There are many good restaurants and a Company runs a hotel and restaurant for Except for affairs directly concerned n the few cheap llotels here, but tourists are its employees as well as for tourists. with the Government, every other aspect odate always warned not to drink water after Booking should be made in advance of life here is affected by the Textile ikers. Bamyan and up to Badakshan because it because of PulC Khumri's location on the Company. It has built hundreds of here is not quite safe. Therefore, people in route to various northern provinces. houses and apartments for its employees shing almost all parts of the northern provinces After Jabulseraj, Pule Khumri is the and their families, it runs a modern 110s- :s. drink tea, and plenty of it, as the weather second entirely electrified town one can pital, it maintains the park, the cafC, the is warm and perspiration helps a lot. see on travelling to the north of Kabul. hotel (locally known as the Club) and the land6 Doshi marks the beginning of Kataghan Its power plant is also the oldest in this power plant. There are rows of shops here selling all kinds of goods, and a cinema to show European and Indian films. In fact this is the second cinema after Charikar on one's way to the north. There is cxcellent fishing in the river, sometin~esbig fish weighing more than five kilogramrnes brought by flood waters from the Oxus river. Duck shooting is also good here in early spring, and pheasant shooting was very good years ago in Dana Ghori. Bngl~lmz The provincial capital of Kataghan. Baghlan is 37 kilometres from Pul@ Khumri. It is situated in a verdant plane, is less humid than PulC Khumri, and also less warm in summer. As the provincial capital of Kataglian was transferred from Khanabad to this place in a hurry and otiice buildings and accommodation were badly needed, a Doab, like ~keGrcrnrl Car~yorl,11m rrii~lti-coloured soil and rocks, brrt its frogs, w11icll sirlg co-ordinated city planning did not like diicks, art'(:urliyue. ~naterialise and therefore the town has slill remained divided between the indus- CafC" built on a little hill dominating the Kunduz trial sector built by the Sugar Company wllole area. It is a lovely cafe, well After 100 kilonietres one comes to which has a refinery here, and the planned to suit modern requirements and Kunduz, the most industrialised town in Government which has its various depart- decorated with inscriptions, pottery, etc., Kataghan. ments 5 kilon~etresaway. unearthed from various sites in the The industrial Baghlan is a pleasant province. As textiles are important to Pul& Khumri and sugar to Baghlan, it is cot- little town with all kinds of shops, a There are petrol stations in both Puli hotel, and many bungalows. ton which dominates the scene here. In Khumri and Baghlan, and also good recent years the Spinzar Company has It is actually the sugar refinery here Afghan restaurants. that runs the whole town. It owns the exported thousands of tons of cotton hotel, runs an experimental farm, rnain- The only food speciality here is nan, abroad, mostly to the Soviet Union in tains the swimming pool, sponsors the which is round instead of oval and is exchange for manufactured goods. sericulture institute, produces the elec- made from super-sifted flour. It is much Other industries run by the company tricity for the refinery and its associated better looking than any other, and can be include china, soap and margarine. The bungalows built for its employees. eaten abundantly. company has branches in almost all The Government in Baghlan has one The best buys in Baghlan are lengths cotton-growing areas of Kataghan and thing to pride itself on. It is the " Sitara of silk cloth. Mazar, with ginning, pressing and baling facilities. The Spinzar Coinpany runs a hotel here and maintains a beautiful park with an equally beautiful cafd. There is a cinema and a library in Kunduz, but the 111ost usual pastime here, as in Baghlan and Pu16 Khumri, is to stroll in the park in the afternoon and have tea later in the caf8. Having the richest soil in the whole country, Kunduz is suitable for all kinds of temperate zone plants and trees, but cotton ancl sycamore trees grow here in profusion. Remains of ancient Kunduz are the ruins of a fort on top of a hill, but changes brought about in recent years have outshone the town's past glory. In fact few people know much about the ancient Kunduz, while even middle- aged persons who lived there or in the ;ing vicinity remember wit11 relish how a marshland full of reeds, infested with mosquitoes and terrorised by hungry lions was converted to such a highly indus- trialised town with various trades boom- es to ing in it. wn in The Kunduz of today is the sole sup- plier of cotton, margarine and laundry Pul& soap to the whole nation, while the s cot- Spinzar Hotel built in a very important . In street in Kabul, Ahmed Jan Khan, is one i has of the most fashionable structures of the A Turko171a11i1.1 his rostunle ivhich prepares hirn to nzeet :ot ton capital. the blealc wirzds bblowi~i~across [lie Central Asinrt deserts. ~n in Askelon Melons plant. Others are too sweet, and the in Kataghan. The town itself is situated 1l'any Kunduz is famous for its most exotic upper crust has to1 be taken off before you in a basin and is warm in summer, some- The melons, and Askelon is the district which eat them. times even warmer than other parts of :t all produces the best type. These have to be Khmabnd the province. and eaten to, be believed. Some are so tender There are 27 kilometres between The local municipality runs a small )ding that they crack if so'meone passes by the Kunduz and Khanabad, the largest town hotel here, while Afghan restaurants and 25 tea houses are plentiful in the bazaars. Farkhar, one of the most pleasant valleys, cherries and the lovely cool air at the The new hydro-electric power plant, with a foaming stream carrying good banks of the almost omnipresent built by Spinzar Conlpany here, has given trout, flowing fast from the slopes. Kokcha. a new life to the town, especially the new I1 is an extremely pleasant spot to Hotrl sector which is planned and houses the spend a day, especially when the summer The Kokcha Cafe is the main hotel in more fashionable people. heat and travel fatigue dictate a nice Faizabad, while rather good meals are Khanabad is more comimercial and changc and rest. There is no hotel. so served in local restaurants. Two speciali- agricultural than industrial. The soil camping is popular on the bank of the ties are " halwa " and " parata," the first here is as good as at Kunduz, and some- stream in tlie public park. being the Afghan pudding conlposed of times better, especially the black soil. flour, sugar and butter, and the second a The main crops are rice and wheat, and There are 42 kilometres between kind OF pancake prepared in a different nlost wheat produced here is grown by Talukan and Kalafgan, a salt mining way and cooked in butter. dry cropping. town, with spa water which is good For Buys A branch of the Kunduz river passes tlie digestion. The main dress in Badakhshan is by Khanabad where fishing is usually Mashad is the halting place between " chakman," a long cloak with equally good, but keen fishermen generally go to Talukan and Faizabad, the provincial long sleeves, made of white or beige Bangi, which is not very far away, but has capital of Badakhshan province. woollen cloth produced locally. Some plenly of easy fishing to offer the not-too- Badakhshan is legendary for its rubies, chakmans are decorated with purple silk advenlurous types. but at present lapis lazuli is nlincd at round the collar and on the sleeves, but T(rh~kan Kurano Munjan, and gold is extracted others are plain. They cost about £3, and After 32 kilometres the road brings you from sands brought by the Kokcha river, are very warm for winter. lo Talukan, the seal of another province, which is the fastest stream in the whole Buck to Pule' Khumri and a pleasant little town. country. It has good water for drinking, and provides excellent fishing. The tourist is advised to come back all Here, as in Kunduz, the Spinzar Com- the way to PulC Khumri in order to go pany has a hotel, a power plant and an There are 160 kilometres between Mashad and Faizabad. The road to Mazar, because the altcrnative route industrial centre. connecting Kunduz with Khulm passes The new town is under construction, generally winds along cliffs and around I hairpin bends with the mountains on one through a deserl. Besides, there are so of while the old town consists of large com- many other things to be seen from PulC side and the deep gorge pierced by the St' pounds sui-rounded by high mud walls. Khumri to Khulm (Tashkurghan) which The weekly fair here is worth seeing Kokcha river on the other. Driving on A c the road calls for extreme caution and the tourist cannot afford to leave N From the point of view of the variety of unvisited. goods on sale, including good horses. strong brakes are needed all the time. di The population of Faizabad is com- Surkh Kotal m Actually a horse is as important to the prised mainly of Tajiks, who are quite There are 217 kilometres between PulC people of the northern provinces as a handsome. The unique features of the Khumri and Khulin. On the way one bicycle is to scl~oolboysin Kabul. One town are that the mountain slopes are passes through the Ghori plain, which is comes across horses everywhere, mostly cultivated, and the Kokcha river is ever most fertile, and the place for pheasant red in colour, of medium height and size, present here. shooting. Also, it is here on the Ghori but preferably fast. The villagcs outside Faizabad, such as plain that a big cement plant has been Far klzor Baharak and Zardeh, are most beautiful, built to augment cement production in About 60 kilometres from Talukan lies and picnickers go there to enjoy the the country. ~t the It is in Ghori, too, that the acropolis of ing the mausoleun~of the fourth Caliph resent Surkh Kotal was built by thc Kushan and Moliammcd's son-in-law, Ali. kings. In recent years several articles of The Blue Mosque, built around tlie archaeological interest, including the re- tomb, is a masterpiece of Afghal~archi- )tel in mains of a fire temple, have been tecture and tilework during the Timurid IS are unearthed from Surkh Kotal. era. The turquoise blue donic of thc eciali- A very picturesque place en route to mausoleuni so much dominates the whole e first Khulm is Sarnangan (Aibak) which has a town that wherevcr one goes one can ;ed of hotel, a public park and a very pleasant never lose sight of it. 011d a climate. The main streets of the town have ferent It has Takhtt Rustam for historians forked from the nlausoleum and a new and archaeologists, and Dara Zindan for mosque and several apartment houses tlie ordinary tourists to see, not far from have been constructed here in recent tlie town itself. 2n is years. lually K/111/177 The seat of the Government is Baght beige Khulm is as important for Mazar as Hozoor, in the heart of the town, and the Some Arghandab is for Kandaliar. It is a great hotel run by the Iocal municipality is e silk orchard wherc fig trees, pomegranates, nearby. s, but grapes, apricots, peaches, etc., grow in Buys 3, and profusion and are sold to the neighbour- Mazar is famous for good carpets, ing areas. Also there is onc particular karakul pelts, "alacha," a stripy silk type of melon known as " amiri," which fabric for making chapans or skirts, long ck all should be tasted when in season. leather and suede boots, etc. to go Jel7rirl Notiza Gardens M~i1-177LL~ route The Jehan Noma Gardens are the seat There are some loveIy valleys near 3asses of the local Government. They consist Mazar; one of them, called Marmul, is re so of a well laid-out park with a long two- very pleasant in summer due to its cool PulC storey building on one side, and a pool, weather, spring waters, green slopes and which Rower beds and shady trees. From Jehan so on, and provides a haven for Mazaris leave A Tojilt ct~iftsnmttin IIW prncer~ nj,co,vple~ingn Nonla onc can see miles away in the far during thc hot summer. lypicnl Afglrntz shoe k~zoivnns paiznr." distance, and therefore the word meaning " World Revealer " is not very Brrlkl~ city except indications of the Now Baliar PulB exaggerated. Balkh, or the ancient Bactria, is known fire temple. There are, however, some r one to historians as the Mother of Cities. It of lslanlic period, best ich is Mazm- was here that Zoroaster was borll 'lid example of which is the lnausoleum of :asant There are 58 kilometres between taught his religion. It was also here, or Khwaja Mohammed 3hori Khullll and Mazar, the provincial capital nearby, that the first Aryan settlements been of the province of the same name. flourished and gradually spread to othcr Lccrvilzg Mazm 3n in Mazar is the fourth largest city in areas. There are 124 kiloilletres between Afghanistan and prides itself for possess- There is nothing lcft from tlie ancient Mazar and Shebirghan, the provincial Also an early dawn start is most advis- able for passengers as well as the vehicle The road to Herat is divided into four in order to avoid overheating of the engine segments: Maimana to Kaisar (96 kilo- and tyres. metres), Kaisar to Bala Murghab (90 kilometres), Bala Murghab to Kalai Now Sllebirglza~z (1 16 kilometres) and Kalai Now to Herat Shebirghan is a delightful little town (165 kilometres). built in reccnt years, with nice straight streets, a hotel, a petxol station and a Tourists leaving Mainlam early in the good-looking mosque. nlorning usually have their breakfast in Kaisar and their lunch in Bala Murghab. Sat.& PLL~ Kaisar is a pretty place with bazaars After 65 kilometres one comes to Sari and good vineyards. The local tea Pul, a town south of Shebirghan ancl very houses serve exccllent breakfast provid- picturesque, with Abi Safid river running ing that the items are specified, as the through it. local people generally order tea with Travellers leaving Mazar for Mairnana bread. usually have their lunch in Shebirghan Bala Murghab, on the banks of and spend the night in Sard Pul. Murghab river, has a little hotel for the The other routc to Maimana passes night's rest and meals are to be ordered througll Andkhoy, but it is much longer in advance from Maimana. and passes through sand dunes which Kalai Now is the seat of the Badghisat cannot be kept clear all the time because district, the most picturesque area where of sand storms. grass grows taller and greener than else- There are 94 kilornetres between Sard where, and thousands of kochis graze Pul and Maimana, with Belcheragli as their flocks of sheep in summer. halting place. Very good horses can be bought here Maimana, thc capital of the province of -and they are cheap, too. The liotel is the same name, is a booming little town good and roomy and the weather with a hotel, a cinema, typical shops and invigorating. i lovely valleys, Zang and Shakh. An early start from Kalai Now takes t kilc It should be the ricliesl ~rovince,as the tourist to Herat late in the afternoon 4 kilc R.,,,,~~, g,,.inr Elflzm,l A,i ul S,,mil, al1110sL the best carpets and karakuls are or evening depending on the power of the produced there, and except for Andkhoy vehicle negotiating the uphill stretch of c area, it is arable in most places, and the Sabzak Pass which is 3,082 metres capital of another province of the same bet A name. villages are frequently seen here and above sea level. there. nes Petrol can be obtained both in Mazar the and Balkh. Tourists are advised to cover A casual jeep among the many beauti- The Rod fo Klzyber Poss rJ the whole distance in one lap because of ful horses on the streets looks quite out The road to Kl~ybe~Pass is divided snc ;{I the desert which the road passes through. of place. into three sections : Kabul to Sarobi (80 i ng fi, d into four r (96 kilo- lrghab (90 Kalai Now w to Herat arly in the reakfast in Murghab. th bazaars local tea 1st provid- ed, as the tea with Pn1.t of tllc Snrobi Hotel 1vhic.1~overlooks o rtirrtr-lnode lokc. banks of Most travellers have their lunch here rice dishes as rice is the nuin product tel for the at the local restaurants which usually le ordered of Nangarhar province along with citrus serve chicken with rice. Some stay the fruits. night at the nice hole1 overlooking the Nangarharis are good craftsmen. They Badghisat man-made lake of the Sarobi hydro- make very colourful bedspreads which lrea where electric dam. The power-house, which were originally meant for men to clad than else- supplies electricity to Kabul and power :his graze to Gulbahar and Jabulseraj, is not far themselves with. The sandals here are r. from the dam on the road to Jalalabad. better than tlrose found in Kabul. In winter it is worth buying "gur," which ~ughthere Jalrrlabnd le hotel is is a kind of brown l~u~npsugar mixed weather A young lvorrzorl from the Shnlcll Vnlley, Mirnnrio, Jalalabad is the capital of Nangarhar with walnuts. weavirz~a carpet. province and the winter resort of the The road from Jalalabad to Torkham people of Kabul. Mosl of thc well-to-do Jow takes kilometres), Sarobi to Jalalabad (104 passes niostly through desert, and then on have their bungalows here, like the leaving the Afghan cusloms office and afternoon kilometres) and Jalalabad to Torkhain private summer villas in Paghman. wer of the (66 kilometres). check point leads to the Khyber Pass and The parks worth seeing in Jalalabad onwards to Peshawar. stretch of Sarobi is a halting place for conln~uters are Shahi, Kowkab and Serajul Emarat. 82 metres between Kabul and Jalalabad, and busi- The hotel in Jalalabad is expanding Thro~~ghCent/-CII Afglzanista~~ ness flourishes here Inore in winter as because of the popularity of the place The road connecting Herat wit11 Kabul there is an influx of people leaving the with the general public who cannot afford passes through some very difficult gorges to have bungalows of their own. is divided snowy capital for the warm and welcom- and narrow passes, most of the time iarobi (80 ing climate of Jalalabad. The restaurants in the town serve good parallel to Hari Rud river. J~llll After 100 kilon~etres,the road branchcs oB to the right towards the Jam minaret, one of the most colossal moilunlents of the Ghorid Ernpirc at Feroz ICol1, built by Sultan Ghiasuddin Ghori. The distance between Shahrak and Jam village along the new road is 60 kilo- metres and takes 5-$ hours by Land Rover. The minaret is a nlagnificent structure 65 metres high and nearly 800 years old. There is no petrol station between Shahrak and Panjao, a tlistance of more than 300 kilometrcs. A large stock is needed from Herat, but there arc nice picnic sites on the bank of the Hari Rud. Holels and other facilities are also not available because of the lllounlslinous nature of the terrain and the fact that the road is only passable by jeeps and Land Rovers during the three lllo~lths of summer. Thcre re~nains 225 kilonlelres fro111 Panjao to the road junction leacling lo Kabul. Pelrol can be obtained in Panjao, but repair facilities are non-existent. Also tourists are advised to consult the local authorities regarding the best camp- ing site, and should not hesitate lo ask for any kind of help they need in cases of emergency. coal It is customary to arrange this exciting The Jan? t?lirl(rr.el on the banks o/ /he. Hari Rrtd r.i~rrrat Feroz Kolt, Gllur.. the c trip through the Afghan Tourist Organi- A l sation, who make arrangements in Pnktya points of view: its natural beauty, its is ve advance and telephone the would-be wink halting places, but group travels are pre- A tour of Afghanistan is never complete location and nearness to Kabul, and its ferred Bs the road is very long and not without visiting Paktya and Nooristan. unique and extremely handsome ~eople. Brlj1.s without its hazards. Paktya is important from various Most of the building timber and char- Th or b~ the spreacl of education. Garclez, the provincial capital, is 122 kilonletres to the south of Kabul. It is a growing town with a hotel, bazaars ancl a petrol station.

Most tourists before leaving Jalalabad pay a visit to Nooristan, the 1,ancl of Light, which is really the most beautiful place in the whole country. After 120 kilo~lletres from Jalalabad, one collies to Cllagha Sarai, the centre of Konar clistrict which is quite picturesque in its own right. There is a distance of 74 kilometres between Chagha Sarai and Barikote. The road winds onwartls to- wards Kamtlesh from Barikote. It is customary to have lunch at Chagha Sarai and dinner at Barilcote. Allnost a clay is needed to rcach Ihat, a coat ancl suerlc. b(loties senlain nients for groups ol' LOllri~t!, to visit the valleys to protect their religion and thc same. al.c.8 are mucle by the Afghan vI'~\i~ri4t customs. I The division of labour in most parts 01.ganihation. Nel'ore Abclur Rahman's rule. tl~e) of the area is quite the reverse of the were able to carry on :~ssome kincl OF ~~sual,it., the men tend the children, pagans with wooelen idols and Inany got15 milk the co~vs.do the cooking, while th~ anel gorlilesscs. They were then con- women are cngageil in Farnling. vertecl to Isla111 and the name of their area, Ircls. Also, Nooristun. ,411 old Noori.cttr~rirrrclrcr. !ol\it~,qc~i~ri trr tr ior,~yr. ltlesh 3 tlge- t the ?mist

Views like this, from Noorisfan, justify the appellrztiorr of " Switzerland in Asia," wltich is given to Afghnnistan. A selection oJ lta~~aktrlskins. 4

Published by the Information Bureau, Royal Afghan Embassy, in London and printed by Frowde & Co. (Printers) Ltd., London,'-S.E.I., England 46 0.50