Wine Selection by the Glass
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Pinotfile Volume 6, Issue 37 the First Wine Newsletter Exclusively Devoted to Pinotphiles
The Proof of Pinot is in the Drinking PinotFile Volume 6, Issue 37 The First Wine Newsletter Exclusively Devoted to Pinotphiles August 24, 2007 Inside this issue: When I’m Sixty-Four Kalin Cellars 6 Sixty-four is not a major age milestone, but I will take it anyway. Paul McCartney School House Vnyd 7 memorialized aging in his love song, “When I’m Sixty-Four,” written at the tender Tipsy Dog Pinot 8 age of 16. I gathered up a few wine cronies, most of whom are hovering around my Lost Canyon 9 same age, raided my cellar for some good Burgs and sat down on a Sunday after- noon to celebrate another year. The well-cellared wines turned out to be vinous Bien Nacido Redux 10 treasures resulting in a very memorable tasting. Here is the lineup with some Small Sips 12 commentary. All wines had appropriate fills and there were no corkage issues. Central Coast 13 1943 Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay 11-14% alc.. You never open a bottle like this with high expectations, but it is nevertheless always a thrill when the wine is this old. The black cork came out cleanly. The wine was a surprise to all. The color was medium ruby with only a trace of orange tinge at the rim. There was still notable sweet red fruits on the palate with a little spice and fecundity. The wine was delicate with cashmere tannins. It was a brief, but memorable fling for the wine was spent an hour later. There were great diffi- culties to overcome to make wine in France during the war years. -
Beverages COCKTAILS
Beverages COCKTAILS FRANCESCO LAFRANCONI’S CREATIONS Friend, Colleague & Mixologist who I consider a Cocktail Genius has created cocktails for TBD…–Vikram Garg Mr. Cobbler 16 Mai Tai 1944 16 Bulleit Bourbon, Oloroso Sherry, Sweet Vermouth, Kohana Kea Rum, Old Lahaina Dark Rum, Lime Juice, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Chocolate & Orgeat Almond Syrup, Giffard Triple Sec Pimento Bitters Yuzu Hi-Ball 14 L.T.J. Collins 13 Jameson, Lemon Juice, Yuzu Syrup, Club Soda, Beefeater Gin, Lemon Juice, Lemongrass- Cucumber Bitters Thai Basil-Jasmine Syrup, Club Soda Passion Paloma 14 Corazon Tequila, Passion Fruit Purée, Lime & Grapefruit Juice, Club Soda, Grapefruit Bitters WINES BY THE GLASS Prosecco, Avissi 11/49 Veneto-Italy Champagne Brut, Lanson “Black Label” 21/95 Champagne-France Pinot Grigio, Zenato 10/46 Veneto-Ital Rosé, Réserve Des Bertrands “Élégance” 12/54 Provence-France Sauvignon Blanc, Jean Reverdy, 15/68 Sancerre, Loire-France Pinot Noir, Failla, Sonoma Coast 21/95 California-US Riesling, Meulenhof “Erdener Treppchen,” 14/59 Kabinett, Mosel-Germany Rhône Blend, Neyers “Sage Canyon,” 17/77 California-US Chardonnay, Louis Latour, Pouilly-Fuissé 16/72 Burgundy-France Grenache, McCay Cellars, Lodi 19/89 California-US Chardonnay, Alit, Willamette Valley 15/68 Oregon-US Cabernet Sauvignon, Ancient Peaks 13/59 “Santa Margarita Ranch,” Paso Robles California-US BEERS Belgian Pilsner - Draft 8 Kona Wailua Wheat 7 Stella Artois 5% IBU tbd Hawaii, USA 5.2% IBU 15 Japanese Pilsner 10 Kona Hanalei Island IPA 7 Coedo Ruri Premium 5% IBU tbd Hawaii, -
Domaine Taupenot Merme
DOMAINE TAUPENOT MERME Country: France Region: Burgundy Appellation(s): Bourgogne, Saint Romain, Auxey Duresses, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle Musigny, Gevrey- Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Corton Rognet Grand Cru, Charmes- Chambertin Grand Cru, Mazoyères- Chambertin Grand Cru, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Producer: Romain Taupenot Founded: 1963 Annual Production: 7,000 cases Farming: Organic (Practicing) Romain Taupenot is the ninth generation to run this family domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis. While records show his ancestors practiced viticulture as far back as the 17th century, the domaine as we know it today truly came to be after the marriage of Romain’s parents, Denise Merme and Jean Taupenot, in 1963. The domaine’s diverse vineyard sites across both the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune can be traced back to this union of holdings from the Taupenot family, based in Saint-Romain, with those belonging to the Mermes, from Morey-Saint-Denis. Romain recalls helping out at the domaine as a child, assisting with harvest and selling his grandfather’s wines along the side of the route nationale to vacationers passing through Burgundy on their summer journey south. But his total integration into the family business would come much later, as he first pursued a career in finance following business studies in Paris. In 1998, he returned home to assume management of the domaine, which he now runs alongside his sister, Virginie. With 9 hectares in the Côte de Nuits and another 4.5 hectares in the Côte de Beaune, Romain and Virginie now produce nineteen different wines across seventeen appellations. -
Craft + Estate Presents
CRAFT + ESTATE PRESENTS Location: Morey-Saint-Denis Grape Variety: Pinot Noir Domaine Michel Magnien has evolved into a Burgundy producer of a singular style and philosophy in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Michel Magnien was born in 1946 and worked alongside his father Bernard from an early age. The Magniens sold their grapes to the local cooperative until 1993 when his son Frédéric joined the family business and persuaded his father to bottle the entire harvest themselves. Frédéric Magnien began experimenting with organic practices in the late 1990s and the entire production was certified biodynamic by Demeter in 2015. BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE In both organic and biodynamic viticulture, no chemical inputs sprays and compost in minute doses, much like homeopathic remedies are used in the vineyard. In organic viticulture, chemicals such as are for humans. Timely applications revitalize the soil and stimulate herbicides and pesticides are forbidden. The philosophy behind root growth, enhance the development of microorganisms and humus biodynamic methods is to revive the soils through holistic means. formation, and aid in photosynthetic activity. Biodynamics strengthens the vitality and resistance of plants by The cosmic phase of biodynamic viticulture allows the plant to improving the natural exchanges between soil and the roots, and strengthen and to energize itself thanks to natural force rather than between sky and the plant. This is accomplished in two ways: the working against nature. The moon strongly influences the way sap use of specific preparations in the vineyard and the consideration runs through the vine and brings rhythm to each step of Frédéric’s of moon phases. -
Morey-Saint-Denis Boasts Also 5 Grands Crus (Clos De APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTRÔLEE Tart, Bonnes Mares, Clos De La Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos Des Lambrays)
•Fiche N°52 UK Morey st Denis.qxd:1 27/04/10 14:36 Page 101 LOCATION Rich in Premiers Crus, Morey-Saint-Denis boasts also 5 Grands Crus (Clos de APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTRÔLEE Tart, Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays). Village Appellation of the Côte de Nuits district (dept. of Côte-d’Or). The appellation forms a bridge, between the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin and This appellation includes 20 Premiers Crus « climats ». those of Chambolle-Musigny. The history of this wine-growing village has in the Producing commune : Morey-Saint-Denis. past been heavily influenced by the powerful religious house of Vergy, the The commune of Morey-Saint-Denis also produces 5 Grands Crus (See Fact-sheets abbeys of Cîteaux and Tart, and by some of the great Burgundian families. Nos. 5 and 28). Of its wine, Dr. Lavalle wrote in 1855, « it can be said that it lacks nothing ». The appellations MOREY-SAINT-DENIS and MOREY-SAINT-DENIS PREMIER CRU may The controlled appellation status was instituted in 1936. be followed on the label by the name of the « climat » (named plot) of origin. SOILS TASTING NOTES The vines grow on limestone and clay-limestone soils dating from the Middle Most of the vineyards are planted with Pinot Noir grapes, although a few parcels are Jurassic : white Bathonien Oolite up-slope and fossiliferous Bajocien planted with Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc varieties, yielding a rare and interesting white limestone at the foot. The vineyards are east-facing and are at altitudes of wine, generally quite firm and opulent. -
Clos De Tart 2015 Vintage En Primeur
CLOS DE TART 2015 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK THIS PAGE COLOUR WILL BE PRINTED SAME AS FRONT OR WE WILL CHOOSE A PAPER COLOUR “2015 is an exceptional vintage: though rich and intense, the 2015 Clos de Tart charms your palate with its freshness and silky tannins.” JACQUES DEVAUGES Régisseur, April 2017 4 5 INTRODUCTION Walk through the heavy wooden doors from the street sole ownership, the village’s only grand cru monopole. Indeed, Jules Lavalle’s 1855 Plan and you will find yourself in a reassuringly solid cobbled there are only seven grands crus monopole in France, five of courtyard. Above the finely pointed masonry, rows of which are in Burgundy. (The others are Romanée-Conti, Topographique of the Côte d’Or vines stand like sentinels. You then realise that all of these La Tâche, La Romanée and La Grande Rue.) became a cornerstone of the 1936 vines belong to Clos de Tart, a novel experience in a region where domaine buildings and vines are often separated Clos de Tart is owned by the Mommessin family and, classification. It singled out one by many kilometres. To your left is Bonnes-Mares, to your between the 1996 and 2014 vintages, was corralled towards right Clos des Lambrays, but sloping upwards centre-stage its current magnificence byex-régisseur Sylvain Pitiot. Tête de Cuvée vineyard in Morey- are the 7.53 hectares of the Clos, imposing and majestic. Sylvain retired in September 2015, handing over the reins to our friend Jacques Devauges, previously of Domaine Saint-Denis: Clos de Tart. -
Wines of the Cote D'or: an Introduction to Serious Burgundy
ROBERSON WINE FINE WINE TASTINGS WINES OF THE COTE D’OR AN INTRODUCTION TO SERIOUS BURGUNDY Thursday 24th June 2010 THE REGION AN INTRODUCTION TO SERIOUS BURGUNDY AN INTRODUCTION Brief History Wine doesn’t get much more complex than in Burgundy - a place where the minutiae of the various appellations, vineyards and producers are poured over for hours by wine geeks from across the globe. Nowhere in the world is the concept of ‘terroir’ better illustrated than in the procession of villages on the ‘Côte d’Or’, where in the space of a few rows of vines the price of a bottle of wine can jump a hundred-fold. The differentiation between vineyards in each village dates back over 1000 years, when Cistercian monks from the abbeys that owned the land built walls around many of the best sites (hence the name ‘Clos’ today for many a walled vineyard). Their knowledge of the different soils, aspects and climatic conditions of each site became well documented over the years and the top vineyards began to earn a reputation for the wines they produced. As with many aspects of French life, the revolutionary war of the late 18th century brought immense upheaval and the church was on the receiv- ing end of the revolutionaries’ wrath. Churches were destroyed, religious orders disbanded and ecclesiastical lands were seized and sold off at auction to the highest bidder. This new class of Burgundian landowners began to sell their produce (either fruit or finished wine) to a burgeoning group of ‘Négociants’ that would blend and bottle the wines under their own name and sell them throughout France and Europe (where the Benelux countries were the biggest market). -
Luxurytourto Cham Pa Gne , Chablis , & Burgundy
L U X U R Y T O U R T O C H A M PA G N E , C H A B L I S , & B U R G U N D Y ——— The Best Houses, Domaines, and Négociants JUNE 1ST – 5TH, 2020 — Hosted by James Lawther, MW — US $3,995 per person COME AND DISCOVER THE ROMANCE OF CHAMPAGNE: Pickup in Paris, flirt with some Champagne over lunch at Lanson, fall in love at Charles Heidsieck and Bollinger, propose over lunch at Taittinger, celebrate at Moët & Chandon, and honeymoon at the 5-star La Briqueterie. THE FINESSE OF CHABLIS: Enjoy a beautiful lunch at La Chablisienne and explore the region more with a tour and tasting at Domaine Long-Depaquit. THE TERROIRS OF BURGUNDY: Learn all about Burgundy’s terroir during a Pinot and Chardonnay extravaganza. Sample wines from the finest vineyards of Bouchard Père et Fils, kick-back with a casual lunch at Olivier Leflaive, see inside the amazing Louis Jadot, enjoy a second Burgundian lunch paired with Grands Crus at Domaine Senard, and finish with Côte de Nuits star Domaine des Lambrays. Enjoy a free afternoon in Beaune, and dinners at Le Montrachet and at our 5-star hotel, Hostellerie le Cèdre. 1 www.FineVintageLtd.com L U X U R Y T O U R T O C H A M PA G N E , C H A B L I S , & B U R G U N D Y ——— The Best Houses, Domaines, and Négociants YOUR HOST JAMES LAWTHER MW Your host is James Lawther MW, a prominent writer for Decanter, who lives in Bordeaux and is an expert on French wines. -
Bonnes-Mares
Bonnes-Mares APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTRÔLÉE Appellation Grand Cru of the Côte de Nuits region (Côte-d’Or). Producing communes: Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis. On the label, the words GRAND CRU must appear immediately below the name of the appellation in characters of exactly the same size. TASTING NOTES Bonnes-Mares is rich and fleshy with mouth-filling body. It has a clearly- defined structure, full-bodied rather than flowery and at times a little wild. It will stand aging for as long as 30-50 years. Wine lovers argue over the nuances said to distinguish the Morey side of the appellation from the Chambolle end. The truth is that the roundness of the one and the elegance of the other are submerged in the delicately tannic power common to both. Its aromas evoke violet, humus and underbrush. SERVING SUGGESTIONS A successful blend of impressive build and meaty texture means this wine is a worthy equal to game, which responds well to its huge aromatic intensity and, in the maturer vintages, its musky notes. Preferably the game should be roasted, but the wine will also take on stews without fuss as well as fine wine-based sauces. Duck (even laquered Pekin-style) is similarly enhanced because the virile tannins in the wine give structure to the aromatic and delicately-textured flesh. It also goes well with strong-flavoured cheeses. Serving temperature: 14 to 16°C. No. 5 A.O.C. Grands Crus A.O.C. Village Premiers Crus A.O.C. Village LOCATION Here, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny demonstrate the ability of the Côte de Nuits to blend two distinct temperaments into a single personality. -
Wines by the Glass
WINES BY THE GLASS WHITES & SPARKLING WINES REDS & ROSÉ WINES Segura Viudas Brut Reserve Cava (SP), 7 '16 Villa Viva Rosé (FR), 7 '14 Matua Sauvignon Blanc (NZ), 7 '15 Kaiken Malbec, (AR) 7 '16 Primarius Pinot Gris (OR), 8 '15 Merf Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Vly (WA), 8 Bodega Norton Brut Rosé, 8 '15 Maggio Merlot (CA), 8 '13 Matchbook Chardonnay (CA), 9 '14 Barnard Griffin “Rob’s Red Blend” (WA), 8 '16 Ch. Ste. Michelle Mimi Chardonnay (WA) 9 '16 Malene Rosé (CA), 9 '16 Newton Skyside Chardonnay (CA), 10 '13 Christopher Michael Pinot Noir (OR), 9 '15 Archery Summit Pinot Gris, Willamette Vly (OR), 10 '14 Storypoint Cabernet Sauvignon (CA), 10 '16 Paetra Riesling (OR), 10 '15 The Franc Cabernet Franc, Lodi (CA), 11 '15 Knock on Wood, Willamette Vly (OR), 11 '13 Primarius Pinot Noir (OR), 11 '16 Justin Sauvignon Blanc (CA), 12 '13 Aretzin Old Vine Zinfandel, Mendocino Co (CA), 11 '16 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Vly (CA), 14 '16 Intrinsic Red Blend, Columbia Vly (WA), 14 Veuve Clicquot Champagne (FR), 18 '14 Boulay Pinot Noir, Yamhill/Carlton (OR), 15 '13 The Calling Cabarnet (CA), 15 WINES BY THE BOTTLE CHARDONNAY ALTERNATIVE WHITES '16 Ch. Ste. Michelle Mimi Chardonnay (WA) 34 '16 Villa Viva Rosé (FR), 27 '13 Matchbook Chardonnay (CA), 35 '15 Cave de Saumur “Les Pouches” (FR), 28 '16 Newton Skyside Chardonnay (CA), 38 '15 Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo (SP), 30 '15 Knock on Wood, Willamette Vly (OR), 40 '12 Montinore Estate Gewurztraminer (OR), 30 '13 Alexana Chardonnay (OR), 66 '16 Paetra Riesling (OR), 30 '15 Flaneur X-Novo, Eola-Amity Hills (OR), 68 '13 Gilbert Cellars Gewurztraminer (WA), 36 '15 Authentique Chardonnay (OR), 70 '16 Malene Rosé (CA), 36 '14 Gran Moraine Chardonnay (OR), 77 '14 Love & Squalor Dry Riesling (OR), 36 '13 Côte Bonneville “DuBrul Vineyard” Chardonnay '15 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay (S. -
2018 Burgundy En Primeur Great Reds & Opulent Whites 2018 Burgundy En Primeur Great Reds & Opulent Whites
2018 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR GREAT REDS & OPULENT WHITES 2018 BURGUNDY EN PRIMEUR GREAT REDS & OPULENT WHITES The 2018 Growing Season and Harvest To understand the great success of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy, it helps to look back at the dormant period of the vines, over the winter 2017/18. Record amounts of rain fell in December, January and March – double the averages of the period 1961-2010. These rains allowed water tables in the ground to be amply topped up. This proved vitally important during the summer, as we shall see. The growing season got off to a proper start from April onwards, then May stayed warm, with below average rainfall in both months. Towards the end of May and in early June rain fell regularly, with warm tempera- tures, allowing the flowering to proceed in excellent conditions. This is always beneficial to quality, as, after a speedy flowering, the grapes in a bunch will reach maturity at the same period. It also helps to lock in a good yield, which indeed proved to be the case. Beautiful weather set in from 12th June, with virtually no rain, and heat-spikes at the end of the month. July was more mixed, with two localised hail-storms affecting Nuits Saint Georges, then temperatures climbed at the end of the month, regularly beyond 30’C. Rain was scarce, sunshine hours well above normal, temper- atures also. The heat-wave lasted until 7th August. Some vines showed heat-stress, however the plentiful water reserves built up during winter now proved to be a massive boon, allowing deep-rooted vines to continue ripening their fruit. -
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (Chambolle-Musigny) 2003 Bonnes
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (Chambolle-Musigny) 2003 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru red (89-91) 2003 Chambolle-Musigny red (87-89) 2003 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” 1er red (89-92) 2003 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées” 1er red (88-91) 2003 Musigny Grand Cru red (91-94) 2002 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru red 92 2002 Chambolle-Musigny red 89 2002 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” 1er red 92 2002 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées” 1er red 90 2002 Musigny Grand Cru red 94 Frédéric Mugnier, who has now completed work on a brand new cuvérie which he told me wasn’t easy to design, noting that the “trick was to make the new one fit in with the old one yet still be efficient.” He describes 2003 as “a vintage that is becoming finer with time in barrel. It was very heavy at first and not very elegant; in fact, exactly the kind of wine that I do not like very much. However now, there is a certain charm to these wines and they are indeed quite serious. To me the question is rather one of style as they may appeal less to those who prefer classically styled burgundy.” With respect to the particulars of the vintage, Mugnier reported that “we started picking on September 1st and brought in yields that were down about onethird. For me this means I realized only 20 hl/ha and the Musigny and Amoureuses were only 15 hl/ha. We did a lot of sorting work was it was absolutely critical to remove the dired and sunburned grapes.