South Gippsland Heritage Study

V OLUME 1 THEMATIC ENVIRONMENTAL HISTORY

December 2004

The front cover shows (from top): ƒ The silos at Knox’s Rockhill Farm, near Leongatha ƒ An unidentified church at Loch ƒ ‘Woodlands’, Old Dollar Road, Stony Creek

South Gippsland Heritage Study

Volume 1 Thematic Environmental History

Prepared for South Gippsland Shire in 1998 by Australian Heritage Group Reviewed in 2004 by David Helms

Contents

Preface vii

Acknowledgments ix

Introduction 13

The heritage setting of South Gippsland Shire 13 1.1 Purpose 14 1.2 Background 15 1.3 Structure 15 1.4 Historical overview 15 Table 1 – Thematic history historical overview 16

Explorers and first contact 17

Introduction 18 2.1 Aboriginal territories and European effects 18 Territories and Language Groups 18 Effects of Europeans on Aboriginal life 18 2.2 Explorers by sea 20 Pre-1800 explorations and misadventures 20 Explorations from 1800 to 1826 22 Early 1840s explorations leading to permanent settlement 24 2.3 Sealing, whaling and Wattle bark stripping 24 Environmental context 24 Sealing 25 Whaling 25 Wattle bark stripping connections with Tasmania and Port Fairy 27 2.4 Explorers by land 28 Hovell (1826) 28 McMillan (1839-41) 28 Macarthur & Strzelecki (1840) 28 Anderson (1840) 29 Brodribb (1841) 30 Robinson (1844) 30 Heritage 31

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Settling the land 33

Introduction 33 History 34 3.1 Pastoral era 34 Introduction 34 Coastal footholds 34 Grazing and cattle runs 35 3.2 Selection era 39 Introduction 39 Grazing permit-holders and early selectors 39 The Land Acts 40 Clearing the land & bushfires 41 Houses and outbuildings 42 Fences, hedges and windrows 42 Floods 43 2.3 Village settlements, homestead associations and labour colonies 45 2.4 Soldier and closer settlements 45 Heritage 46

Working the land 47

Introduction 47 History 49 4.1 Grazing 49 Introduction 49 Early difficulties 49 Cattle runs 49 Livestock trading 50 4.2 Dairying 51 Introduction 51 Technical innovations during the late nineteenth century 52 Early dairy cooperatives and share farming 53 Proprietary companies 54 Supplying whole milk 55 Rationalisation in the late twentieth century 55 Knox’s Rockhill Farm 55 3.3 Horticulture 55 Heritage 57

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Transport and communications 59

Introduction 59 History 60 5.1 Early tracks for overland travel 60 Routes between Port Albert and Melbourne 60 McDonald's Track 61 Liddiard's, Whitelaw's and Turton’s Tracks 61 Turner’s Track 62 Other tracks 62 5.2 The evolution to coach and wagon roads 62 5.3 Twentieth century improvements 64 5.4 Railways and tramways 65 Introduction 65 Morwell-Mirboo Railway 65 Great Southern Railway 67 Branch lines 67 Tramways 68 5.5 Travelling by sea 68 Introduction 68 Port Welshpool 68 Foster Landing 69 Miller's Landing 69 Waratah Bay and the Walkerville jetty 69 Port of Inverloch on Anderson Inlet and wharves on the Tarwin River 69 Lighthouses 70 5.6 Postal, telegraph and telephone networks 70 Postal networks and post offices 71 Telegraph and telephone networks 71 5.7 Newspapers 71 Heritage 72

Economic development 73

Introduction 73 History 75 6.1 Utilising natural resources 75 Sealing, whaling and Wattle bark stripping 75 Timber cutting, sawmilling and tree plantations 75 Fishing 78 6.2 Gold mining 79 Introduction 79 iii South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

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Stockyard Creek 79 Turton’s Creek 80 Wilson’s Promontory and Waratah Bay 80 6.3 Coal mining 80 Introduction 80 6.4 Tin mining 82 Introduction 82 Upper Franklin River 82 Mount Hunter, Wilson’s Promontory 83 6.5 Lime extraction and processing 83 Walkerville and Bell Point 83 Limonite 84 6.6 Tourism 85 Early days of nature appreciation and tourism 85 The rising conservation movement 85 Wilson’s Promontory National Park 86 Coal Creek Heritage Village 86 Tourism today 87 Heritage 88

Governance 89

Introduction 89 History 90 7.1 Colonial administration 90 7.2 Forming local government 90 7.3 Defending Australia 91 Heritage 92

Community and culture 93

Introduction 93 History 94 8.1 Places for learning, meeting and worshipping 94 Introduction 94 Schools 94 Churches 95 Mechanics’ Insitutes and public halls 95 8.2 Organising recreation 96 Introduction 96 Recreation reserves 96 Going to the beach 96 Swimming pools 96 iv South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

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Dancing 97 Rifle shooting 97 Racecourses 97 8.3 Commemorating 97 Introduction 97 Memorials 97 Avenues of Honour 97 Memorial halls 98 8.4 Cemeteries 98 8.5 Hospitals 99 Heritage 100

Building settlements, towns and cities 101

Introduction 101 History 103 9.1 Township development 103 Introduction 103 Early Government survey towns 103 Port towns 103 Railway towns 103 Mining towns 103 Butter towns 104 9.2 Developing commercial centres 104 Introduction 104 Hospitality 104 Banking 105 Horse and buggy livery stables 105 Motor vehicle garages 105 Retailing 106 9.3 Residential development 107 Heritage 108

References 109

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vi South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

Preface

The South Gippsland Heritage Study ƒ A new chapter Working the land is (the Study) was prepared in two introduced to deal specifically with stages over four years between 1998 agricultural industries. A separate and 2002 and comprises: chapter entitled Economic development is created for all other ƒ Volume 1 – Thematic forms of industry. Environmental History ƒ Chapter 5 was renamed as ƒ Volume 2 – Key Findings + Governance, while a new chapter Recommendations entitled Community & culture was ƒ Volume 3 – Heritage Place + added. Additional contextual Precinct Citations information was added for each of ƒ Volume 4 – Appendices these chapters. The Thematic Environmental History ƒ Chapter 6 was renamed as of South Gippsland Shire was Building settlements and towns and completed in November 1998 as part re-organised under headings that of Stage 1 of the Study by the illustrated how towns developed Australian Heritage Group. This history according to key influences such as was reviewed during Stage 2 of the transportation and industry. Some Study, initially in 2002 with a final information was moved to other review in 2004. The purpose of this chapters such as Economic review was to determine whether any development. particular themes needed to be ƒ Chapter 7 Tourism and amended in the light of detailed Conservation of Natural Resources research that was undertaken during was moved to become part of the Stage 2. Economic Development chapter. As a consequence of this review this In undertaking this review the revised and updated South Gippsland Australian Heritage Group (AHG) is Thematic Environmental History 2004 acknowledged as the original author of has been prepared. The key changes the majority of the text in this report that have been made as a result of this and their significant contribution to the review may be summarized as: completion of the Study is appreciated. In recognition of this, the original ƒ Each chapter was split into three Thematic Environmental History of consistent sub-chapters; South Gippsland Shire remains as a Introduction (which gives an separate document. explanation of the purpose of the chapter), History (which contains This version has been prepared as a the historic information about the reference document for the theme), and Heritage (which gives amendment to the South Gippsland examples of the heritage places Planning Scheme that proposes to that illustrate the theme). include public buildings identified by the Study in the Heritage Overlay. It ƒ Chapter 1 was split into two does not include illustrations and maps chapters; Chapter 1 becoming included in the original history Explorers & First Contact, with a prepared by the AHG, which were not new Chapter 2 Settling the land. available. It is intended that alternative Sub chapters in relation to Village illustrations and maps will be added in settlements & soldier settlements future. formerly in Chapter 5 Governance were added to the new Chapter 2.

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8 South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

Acknowledgments

Introduction Community groups

The preparation of the Thematic Korumburra & District Historical History of South Gippsland Shire Society during Stage 1 of the Study was made ƒ Doug & Dorothy Boston possible through the guidance and ƒ Shirley Holland advice of a number of persons who ƒ Jean Peterson co-operatively and unselfishly assisted the efforts of the Australian Heritage Leongatha & District (Woorayl) Group in its assigned tasks. These Historical Society persons are listed below and their ƒ Margaret Stokes, Secretary assistance and contributions are kindly ƒ John Murphy acknowledged. Any person whose Mirboo North Historical Society name may have been inadvertently ƒ Suzanne Campbell, President and omitted from this is extended a sincere others apology and thanked for their assistance as well. Poowong Historical Society ƒ Ray Alford

ƒ Joan Gregg Steering Committee ƒ Steven Halliday South Gippsland Museum and ƒ Brian Dwyer – Councilor, South Historical Society Gippsland Shire Council ƒ Rosemary Crawford ƒ Jeanette Harding – Councilor, ƒ Margery Linton South Gippsland Shire Council ƒ Marion Haupt ƒ James Forbes – Councilor, South Gippsland Shire Council ƒ Norm Sparkes ƒ Oliver Moles - Manager Strategic Welshpool and District Museum Planning and Development, South ƒ Brian Robinson Gippsland Shire Council ƒ John Wooley ƒ Katy Spencer - Town Planner, Coal Creek Heritage Village South Gippsland Shire Council ƒ Lesley Ikin ƒ Patrick Miller - Manager Heritage ƒ Liz Maguire Assessments, Heritage Victoria. Cemetery Trusts ƒ Shane Pianta - Senior Town ƒ Nola Taylor - Foster Planner, Department of Infrastructure. ƒ K Fowles – Korumburra ƒ JJ Edney – Leongatha ƒ Julie Goldsmith – Meeniyan ƒ Suzanne Campbell – Mirboo North ƒ John Van Doorn – Nyora ƒ Mrs EJ Fisher – Tarwin Lower ƒ Wilma Unwin – Toora ƒ Alan Christensen – Welshpool

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Heritage workshop Mirboo North attendees ƒ Marie Gerrard-Staton ƒ Joyce Callister Foster ƒ Marion Moon ƒ Jeanette Harding, Councilor ƒ Suzanne Campbell ƒ C. Atkin ƒ Liz Morris ƒ Beryl Atkin ƒ Kaye Marshman ƒ Shirley Westaway ƒ Geoff Clarke ƒ Marion Haupt ƒ David Lang ƒ Des Humphries ƒ Kirsty Smith ƒ Cheryl GIowrey ƒ Maryanne Waycott ƒ John Woolley Others ƒ Norm Sparkes ƒ Ross Hartnell - Author of Pack ƒ John and Nola Taylor Tracks to Pastures Korumburra ƒ Barry Sykes - Yarragon ƒ Jean Hayden ƒ Mary Ellis – South Gippsland ƒ Doug Billing Conservation Society ƒ Barry Sykes ƒ Ken and Sylvia Richardson – Woorarra West ƒ Alan Roberts ƒ Joanne David – Jumbunna ƒ Jean Petersen ƒ Leo Synan – Buffalo ƒ Shirley Holland ƒ Jeff Clark - Nyora ƒ Barbara Look ƒ Paddy Percival - Conservation ƒ Warwick Turner Society, Foster ƒ Lesley Ikin ƒ Ermela MacIntyre - Landcare ƒ Liz Maguire ƒ Maudi Thomson – Fish Creek Leongatha ƒ Bart Citroen ƒ Brian Dwyer, Councillor ƒ Ray Knee - Toora ƒ Margaret Stokes ƒ Jack Edney - Leongatha ƒ Don Williams ƒ Oliver Moles ƒ John Murphy ƒ Joan Van Den Borne ƒ Jack Edney ƒ Sybil Smith ƒ Lorna Dowell ƒ Jean Arbuthnot ƒ Joy Hoy ƒ Gwen Hepburn ƒ Jeanette & Don Chalmers ƒ Hugh Hendry ƒ Cliff Smart ƒ Michael Holt x South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

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Study team (Stage 1)

Australian Heritage Group ƒ Dennis Williamson – Director, Scenic Spectrums - Project Director, Community Consultation and principal report author. ƒ Dr. Hilary du Cros - Research Archaeologist, du Cros & Associates and Biosis Research Pty Ltd - Site research and consultations. ƒ Julie Stevens – Historian - Historic Research and First Draft Report Report Author. Others ƒ Dr. Jan Schapper - University of Melbourne - Report editing. ƒ Francis Yeo - Landscape Architect, Scenic Spectrums Pty Ltd - Research and graphics assistant ƒ Mrs. Ursula Williamson – Director, Scenic Spectrums Pty Ltd - Computer systems and report design.

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Introduction

The heritage setting of initial opportunities for exploration and South Gippsland Shire settlement of the area from the late 1790s through the 1840s. However, dangerous offshore rocky reefs, tidal South Gippsland has a diverse post- rivers and streams, extensive wetlands contact heritage that has been shaped and dense tea-tree thickets presented by the landscape in many ways. formidable natural opposition to the Europeans choosing to explore and early explorations and pioneering settle in South Gippsland during the settlement. period from the very late 1700s through the 1880s encountered many The rolling upland terrain of the difficulties and challenges that were Gippsland Hills, including the unique from those experienced by Strzelecki Range and Hoddle Range, settlers in other parts of Victoria. The provide a northern enclosure to the dense forests, scrub, swamps, rivers lowlands on the south. These ranges and creeks in part explain this. Early give rise to the Bass River and Lang settlers battled against the isolation of Lang River catchments on the the region and yet came to identify northwestern edge of the Shire: the themselves and their future with this Tarwin River and its tributaries in the very aspect of the landscape. It led central portion of the Shire; and the South Gippslanders to identify closely Franklin and Agnes Rivers north of with one another and their Corner Inlet. The terrain and the surroundings. dense forests prevented serious settlement in these ranges until the South Gippsland Shire was formed in period from the 1860s through the December 1994 and covers an area of early 1890s. 3250 square kilometres in the southeast of Victoria. The Shire The Vereker, LaTrobe, Wilson and consists of three of Victoria's Boulder Ranges of Wilson’s Landscape Character Types (LCT), Promontory provide somewhat more progressing from the Coastline LCT striking granitic formations on that inland to the Southern Lowlands and isolated coastal peninsula. Wilson’s the Southern Uplands. Promontory was an important feature to the explorer George Bass in 1798 The coastline is varied, including and the sealers and whalers who soon relatively shallow inlets and mudflats followed him. Wilson’s Promontory of Anderson Inlet, Shallow Inlet and remains a key attraction in its own Corner Inlet; sand dune formations right today. along Venus Bay; limestone escarpments near Walkerville at Waratah Bay; and rocky headlands at Cape Liptrap and Wilson's Promontory.

The lowlands occur along a number of rivers and streams that flow from the uplands to the sea, including the Powlett River, the Tarwin River, and other minor streams flowing to the coast in the Venus Bay, Shallow Inlet and Corner Inlet areas. These coastal fringes and lowlands provided the

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1.1 Purpose On this basis, this environmental history provides a summary of human use and impact upon the landscape in This report provides a 'thematic the years since first contact with environmental history' of the post- indigenous inhabitants. It is not a contact1 settlement and development chronological record and should not be of South Gippsland Shire2 in Victoria. read in this way. It is an historical explanation of the major environmental, social and Rather, the history is organised cultural themes, which have been according to themes so as to provide a significant in the evolution and context to assist with the identification development of South Gippsland Shire of heritage places that illustrate the during the post-contact period. rich cultural history of the Shire. These heritage places include buildings and The objective of a thematic history is structures, precincts, objects, ruins, not to provide a comprehensive social trees and landscapes. The themes are or environmental history of the Shire. also embodied in the historic or Rather, it is to provide: continuing use of places and people’s ƒ An historical explanation of the social and spiritual associations with major environmental and them. social/cultural themes that have The themes used in this environmental been significant in the evolution history have been adapted from the and development of the Shire Australian Historic Themes (AHT) set during the post-contact period. down as guidelines by the Australian ƒ A description of how these themes Heritage Council (AHC). The AHC may be illustrated or physically notes that: manifested by way of structures and buildings, sites and places, The consistent organising principle for landscape features and other the Thematic Framework is activity. By elements. emphasising the human activities that produced the places we value, and the Although the study's focus is on human response to Australia’s natural cultural heritage rather than natural environment, places are related to the heritage, natural heritage features that processes and stories associated with may have a notable social or cultural them, rather than to the type or value were also considered. For function of place. example, a large remnant Mountain Ash tree in the Darlimurla area has Finally, it is important to understand come to symbolise the past history of that the history is not arranged as a the tremendous forest trees felled and hierarchy, which gives priority, cleared by the local communities weighting and privilege to some ancestors and is now a local feature themes, nor is it simply a checklist. that visitors are shown in the telling of One place may have many themes that story. Even though the tree is a reflecting the integrated, diverse and natural feature, it's present value is complex way that places evolve over cultural rather than just natural. time.

On this basis, each chapter includes:

1 Post contact refers to the period following ƒ A brief introduction, which includes the initial contact between local Aboriginal an explanation of which AHT is communities and European explorers and relevant. early settlers. 2 South Gippsland Shire is referred to as ‘the Shire’ throughout this history.

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ƒ An outline of the history of the settlement was established, and Shire associated with the particular describes the relative sequence of that theme. initial establishment within different ƒ A list of the heritage places geographic areas of the Shire. associated with the theme. The This is followed by two closely related lists of heritage places are not chapters Settling the land and Working exhaustive; rather they are the land, which demonstrate how the representative of the many places pattern of settlement and type of land that the Study has identified. tenure changed the landscape and influenced the type of industries that developed. 1.2 Background In order to ensure the study focus is on heritage themes and the remaining This environmental history forms part manifestations of those themes, the of the South Gippsland Heritage Study subsequent sections of the report are 2004 (the Study), which was presented with less history telling, completed by 2002 and reviewed in focusing instead on the central themes 2004. The purpose of the Study was to of the Shire's heritage and complete the identification, development. assessment and documentation of places of post-contact cultural Examples of remaining sites and significance for the whole of the places of known or potential cultural municipality. significance are provided throughout the report. These examples are not A key task required by Stage 2 of the exhaustive and a full listing of these Study was a review of the first sites and places is provided in Volume Thematic Environmental History of 4 of the Study. South Gippsland Shire prepared by the Australian Heritage Group in 1998. The purpose of review was to 1.4 Historical Overview determine if the emphasis given to particular themes needed to be reviewed in the light of the detailed As described above, this thematic environmental history is set out in work undertaken for this Study. It was also possible that new themes may thematic, but not chronological order. The following table is provided to have emerged. assist in understand how the historic themes are associated with key dates in the historic development of the 1.3 Structure Shire. Please note that this table is indicative only of broad timeframes The history is arranged thematically associated with each theme and with key themes derived from the reference should be made to the Principal Australian Historic Themes appropriate chapter in this prepared by the Australian Heritage environmental history for more specific Commission (AHC). information about the actual periods of influence for each theme. The second chapter of the report, Exploration and first contact is given particular emphasis in order to clearly

convey a sense of the Shire's beginnings. It relates the cultural and physical setting within which European

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Table 1 - Thematic history historical overview

Theme Period of Influence

860 s s s s s s s s s s Pre-1 1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950

Explorers & first contact Settling the land Working the land Transport & communications Economic development Governance Community & culture Building settlements, towns & cities

Primary period of influence Secondary or continuing period of influence

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Explorers and first contact

INTRODUCTION

This era was very important in terms of establishing the potential of the Shire as a place for settlement within the nascent Port Phillip district. The observations made during this time by early explorers led to great interest amongst the early colonial settlers and enabled the first pastoral runs to be established in the district. While little physical evidence of these explorations remains today this era was instrumental in gathering information about South Gippsland, establishing the most viable overland routes and promoting it as a destination for subsequent settlers Out of all the themes in the history of the Shire it had perhaps the least impact in terms of its initial effects upon the landscape, however, its impact upon the indigenous inhabitants and their traditional lifestyle was devastating. This chapter incorporates the following Australian Historic Themes: ƒ Peopling Australia: Living as Australia’s earliest inhabitants, Fighting for land. ƒ Developing local, regional and national economies; Exploring the coastline, Surveying the continent.

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HISTORY The two Gunnai clans that inhabited the eastern portion of present-day South Gippsland Shire were the 2.1 Aboriginal territories and Bratauolong in the area roughly south European effects of the Mt Fatigue area extending to Wilson’s Promontory, and the Braiakolung, who occupied the area to Territories and language groups the north, including the current far The territories of the Kulin Aboriginal north eastern part of the Shire near society included much of South Turton’s Creek and areas further north Gippsland, including the eastern and eastward. The Bratauolong moved portion of what is now South between a series of permanent and Gippsland Shire. Within the Kulin semi-permanent camps extending society, five different language groups from the La Trobe River to Cape are recognised. (du Cros & Liptrap, including Wilson’s Associates, 1998) The anthropologist, Promontory. Alfred Howitt (1904, as referred to by Morgan, 1997:13-22) documented The Yowengarra clan of the Bun differences in their languages, their wurrung group controlled the Tarwin tribal history, stories and customs. Lower and Inverloch area and was West of the Hoddle Range and south noted by George Augustus Robinson of the Strzelecki Range, the Bun in 1840 as being "a powerful section of wurrung Aboriginal language group the Boonerong nation at Western occupied the area, which now makes Port". (Charles & Loney, 1989:6) up the central and southeastern portions of South Gippsland Shire, North of the Strzelecki Range and including most of the Tarwin, Powlett west of what is now known as the La and Bass River catchments, extending Trobe Valley in the Moe vicinity, the west to Western Port Bay. The Bun Wurundjeri clan of the Kulin language wurrung had hostile relations with the group occupied the northern part of Gunnai clans and were not part of the the Shire, extending westward to the larger Kulin grouping. (du Cros & Yarra River area of modern-day Associates, 1998) Melbourne.

At the time of the first European It is estimated that each of the Gunnai explorations by sea and during the clans had up to 1,000 clan members initial establishment of the sealing and prior to European exploration and whaling trades in the Wilson's settlement. (Morgan, 1997:15) They Promontory area, the Gunnai are thought to have moved in groups Aboriginal language group (sometimes of 100 or more through their territory. referred to as Ganai or Kurnai by (Charles & Loney 1989;6) Europeans) inhabited the Gippsland Effects of Europeans on Aboriginal area from a line running roughly north- life south from the Hoddle Range (west of The Bun wurrung are reportedly the Wilson’s Promontory) to what is now first of the Victorian Aboriginal clans to the La Trobe Valley in the vicinity of be met by Europeans when Bass present-day Moe and then eastward to sailed into Western Port in 1798. just east of the Snowy River in the (Charles & Loney, 1989:7) The first Cape Conran area. (Morgan, 1997:14- impact of Europeans on the Aboriginal 15) Five separate clans inhabited this clans was probably associated with area from the southern slopes of the the sealers and whalers who Great Dividing Range to the coast. established temporary bases in the Wilson’s Promontory area during 1798, soon after Bass's exploration of

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the coast and reports of large numbers permanent European settlement at of seals in the area. Port Albert in 1841, the Bratauolung were all but destroyed, their numbers Reports of sealers and whalers dropping from 126 in 1853 to only 17 abducting Aboriginal women from local by 1863. (Charles & Loney, 1989:8) clans and keeping them around their One conservative estimate suggests a camps in the Wilson’s Promontory population decrease of 95% in less area, as well as elsewhere along the than twenty years of European southeast Australian coastline are settlement in South Gippsland. common (Charles & Loney, 1989:6; (McNiven, 1995:19) They were forced Colwell, 1969:58). Apparently under to take refuge in the inhospitable the old 'sealers' law', a sealer was swamplands or in the mountain entitled to a maximum of five ranges, but the effects of disease and Aboriginal 'wives'. (Carroll, 1989:49, cultural dislocation were still keenly quoting a paper read by J.W. Beattie felt. to the Royal Society of Tasmania in 1911.) The Aboriginal people were often described as peaceful, shy and The abduction of women from inoffensive and there is evidence of Aboriginal clans and the annexation of cooperation between the two cultures. tribal territory by Europeans resulted in (Charles & Loney, 1989:7) inter-tribal raids on women from other Aboriginal clans and a general General evidence points to coastal increase in the conflict between clans Aboriginal clans benefiting in the from different territories (Charles & shorter term from the greater Loney, 1989:8), although there is also availability of whale meat and offal thought to have been inter-tribal associated with the European's warfare from time to time prior to and technological prowess in hunting these separate from European causes. creatures (Colwell, 1969:66-69) (Morgan, 1997:15) Aboriginal men sometimes worked as oarsmen for shore-based whaling One such raid on the Tarwin clan by station operators. They also often Aborigines from the North Gippsland worked as guides for settlers intent on or Omeo area apparently occurred exploring South Gippsland. In a harsh shortly before white men arrived, land that most Europeans were still resulting in several deaths near the struggling to understand, these guides area later to become The Meadows were often the only reason for their Homestead near Tarwin Lower survival. (Charles & Loney 1989:8). As settlers moved further inland, the Aborigines' Aboriginal people occasionally worked land and traditional sources of food for European settlers in exchange for and shelter quickly diminished. food and other items or to camp near sealing or whaling stations and towns. The spread of European diseases and It might be suggested that such viruses to Aboriginal people (including employment was due to necessity measles, small pox and syphilis), rather than choice given the along with changes in lifestyle, diet diminished opportunities for traditional and direct decimation were also major food gathering by Aborigines. causes in the rapid reduction of Aboriginal populations in the South The Europeans learned quickly to Gippsland area. The census of demonstrate and use their firearms. Bunurong clan members dropped from However, there is evidence of violence 87 in 1838 to 11 in 1863 (Charles & on both sides of this struggle for land, Loney, 1989:8). In the space of thirty although European settlers in South years, from the beginnings of Gippsland met with less resistance

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from the Bratauolung than their The abduction of Aboriginal women by counterparts in central Gippsland. sealers and whalers created the first Apparently some of the most terrible source of cultural conflict between clashes took place around Port Albert, European and Aborigines and and one of the worst massacres of contributed to conflicts between Aboriginal people occurred at Warrigal neighbouring Aboriginal Clans. Creek in 1843 (now within Wellington Undoubtedly the Aboriginal clans were Shire) where sixty Aboriginal people forced into contact with European were killed, reputedly in retaliation for settlers more often after their lands the murder of a white settler. were usurped and the new settlers' Massacres also happened at Port domesticated sheep and cattle took Albert and Gammon Creek during over the areas where the Aboriginal 1843. (McNiven, 1995:18 & Collett, people had previously hunted native 1994:28) animals. On the whole, pastoralists moving into South Gippsland, as with There is at least one documented other parts of Victoria, probably did not report of Aboriginal people fully understand or give full recognition successfully removing European to the Aboriginal people. settlers from Rabbit Island near Wilson’s Promontory in 1846 and then burning the settler’s huts and destroying their garden. (McNiven, 2.2 Explorers by sea 1995:19) This appears to have been associated with evidence of Aboriginal Pre-1800 explorations and women living in the whaling camps in misadventures the 1830s and 1840s, whether by The first Europeans came by sea to coercion or by choice is not clear. the waters of Bass Strait and the However, incidences of hostility by shores of South Gippsland and Ganai men seem to have increased in Western Port to explore, chart the this period, which may indicate that coastline, and to report on and classify some of the women had been the natural features and economic abducted. (Collett 1994:31) potential of the land. They also came to lay claim on the land for England by The Victorian government established establishing shoreline outposts in the a Central Board for the Protection of face of real competition from France. Aborigines in 1860. (McNiven, 1895:19) The Board worked in During April of 1770, Lieutenant association with the Presbyterian Zachary Hicks, second-in-command to Mission Board to establish Ramahyuck Captain Cook on the Endeavour, Mission Station, an Aboriginal sighted a point on the southeastern Reserve, in 1863. The Station was coast of present-day Victoria, which located at the mouth of the Avon Cook later named Point Hicks in his River, and therefore lies outside the honour. Endeavour then sailed boundaries of South Gippsland Shire. northeastward, allowing Cook to Most of the remaining Bratauolung in discover the Victorian coastline from the vicinity of Port Albert were Point Hicks to the New South Wales relocated to Ramahyuck Mission border. (Calder, 1981:63) Station in the mid-1860s. An Aboriginal Mission Station was also established at Lake Tyers in 1861, outside the Shire.

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During February of 1797, the Sydney large seal colonies. Departing from the Cove, a merchant ship with large Promontory, his boat sprang a leak quantities of rum and general and he turned back toward the merchandise, was beached on mainland, passing close to Seal Preservation Island in the Furneaux Island. Seeing smoke on the island, he Group of islands in Bass Strait. Only and his party stopped to converse with three of seventeen sailors survived people whom they thought would be their longboat and overland journey on Aborigines, however, found that the to Sydney and two additional vessels fire was that of the seven stranded were then sent to rescue the convicts. (Collett, 1994:24) They remainder of the crew, one of these shared their small amount of food and vessels disappearing without trace on supplies with the convicts and its return. promised to come back for them on their return journey. During October of 1797, a group of fourteen convicts stole a large boat in Bass and his crew reached Western Sydney with the intention of sailing to Port three days later and spent ten Preservation Island to refloat the days documenting the area. Scott Sydney Cove, reached Wilson’s (1947:82) noted that this leg of the Promontory and landed on Seal Bass expedition was the: Island, being unsure in their navigation to Preservation Island. Half of the ..most important discovery that had convicts decided the original plan was been made since the establishment of too difficult. They took the boat, left the settlement in Australia....Bass' other seven men stranded and sailed whaleboat voyage showed that the old in search of Malaya, their eventual fate belief that Van Diemen's Land was a unknown. Dangerous seas between southern extension of New Holland to Seal Island and the Promontory made be improbable. He had not, indeed, if difficult for the remaining convicts to positively demonstrated the existence get back to the mainland. of a strait, though the southwesterly swell, which rolled in upon Early in December 1797, George Westernport convinced him that there Bass, a young ship’s surgeon sought was one. permission from Governor Hunter to make a voyage along the southeastern As supplies were running very low, it was necessary for Bass and his crew coast of Victoria. He intended to confirm the popular theory (based on to turn back towards Port Jackson the flow of currents) that a strait without establishing complete evidence of the existence of a strait separated Van Diemen’s Land from the mainland (Collett, 1994:24). between Van Diemen's Land Governor Hunter provided Bass with a (Tasmania) and the mainland. Heavy seas forced them to beach the whaleboat, crew and rations for the exploration. Bass set out from Port whaleboat for three days near Cape Jackson on December 3, 1797, in the Liptrap and when they finally returned to Seal Island, they realised that they company of the Nautilus, a vessel dispatched to explore sealing potential could not carry all seven convicts in the whaleboat given the weather and along the New South Wales coastline. sea conditions. Having shared as Bass arrived at the southern end of much food and clothing as he could Wilson’s Promontory on 2 January spare, Bass put five of the convicts 1798 unaware of the stranded convicts ashore at Sealers Cove, being nearby on Seal Island. He made a detained there for another week by brief study of the bird life and strong gales. vegetation, including the presence of

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When the weather cleared, they again During October 1798, Bass and met up with the five convicts who had Flinders circumnavigated Van made their way across the isthmus of Diemen's Land together, proving once the promontory to the northern portion and for all that a strait really existed of Corner Inlet. The five convicts were and that what we now know as then transported to the eastern end of Tasmania was not connected to Ninety Mile Beach, where they were mainland Australia. Remarkably, this left with instructions to follow the coast was the last exploratory mission by back to Sydney, some 500 miles Bass, but it established Flinders as a away. After sheltering in Corner Inlet navigator of high capacity worthy of for nearly another week, Bass more important tasks. (Scott, 1947:83) departed with his crew and two sick convicts for Sydney on 9 February Over the next four years, Flinders made several excursions into Bass 1798. The other five convicts were Strait, naming the strait after his friend never seen again. (Collett, 1994:26) and naming many of the other islands The Sydney Cove episode is and features of the strait. significant in that it may have resulted Explorations from 1800 to 1826 in some of the earliest contact and During 1800, Lieutenant James Grant possible co-habitation between white in command of the Lady Nelson was European convicts and Aborigines in instructed by Governor King to assist the South Gippsland area. However, Flinders with his explorations of Bass as Charles & Loney (1989:15) and Strait and to pass through Bass Strait Robert Hughes (1987:332) point out, from the west, sailing relatively close many convicts sought their freedom inshore along the western coastline of from Van Diemen's Land by escaping Victoria. The Lady Nelson was a across Bass Strait. As the area from vessel of 60 tons, fitted out for making Wilson’s Promontory to Anderson Inlet surveys and discoveries along the was at the northern end of the shortest Australian coast. (Scott, 1947:83) route from Tasmania and also along the route of the most easily negotiated Although Grant named many of the currents during calmer weather, some prominent features of the coast, convicts could well have landed in including Wilson’s Promontory, he did South Gippsland after 1804. not enter Port Phillip Bay or Western Port Bay during this trip. (Calder, Although the dates do not entirely 1981:64) However, Grant in the Lady coincide with the reported weather Nelson was the next to visit to Western patterns and Bass makes no mention Port after Bass, passing Wilson’s of it in his journal, Collet indicates that Promontory and Cape Patterson and Bass met up with his friend and fellow entering Western Port on 21 March, explorer Matthew Flinders near the 1801. He was the first person noted for entrance to Corner Inlet on 1 February cultivating Victorian soil (on Churchill 1798. Bass had mistakenly thought the Island) for wheat, vegetables and fruit promontory was "Furneaux Land", trees during this 33-day stay at believing it had been sighted by Western Port. (Committee of the South Tobias Furneaux in 1773. Soon Gippsland Pioneers Association, afterwards, however, Flinders 1920:2) suggested that it be renamed Wilson’s Promontory in honour of his London shipping merchant friend, Thomas Wilson. It happens that Flinders was on a mission from Sydney to salvage the cargo of the Sydney Cove. (Collett, 1994:26)

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After returning to England for a visit Wilson’s Promontory and sailed during 1800, Captain Matthew Flinders westward along the Victorian and was placed in command of the South Australian coastline to Investigator with instructions to resolve Kangaroo Island (Calder, 1981:64). the remaining geographical configuration of Australia. He returned It was during this mission that a group to Australia on this mission on 6 from the La Geographe was the first Europeans to come ashore on the December 1801. (Scott, 1947:85) During the next year, Flinders Tarwin Lower beach at what is now discovered and mapped the entire called Anderson's Inlet. The geographer Francois Peron was the southern coastline of the continent from the head of the Great Australian first to use the name Venus Bay in Bight to Encounter Bay. His surveys of reference to the embayment between Cape Patterson and Cape Liptrap the coastline proved remarkably accurate, given the technology of the (Charles & Loney, 1989:12) day and years later were shown to In October of 1803, Lieutenant-Colonel largely match the coastline David Collins established a settlement documented by modern aerial at what is now known as Sorrento on photography. As Scott (1947:85) the Mornington Peninsula. Nearly 300 describes: convicts and a guard of marines and civilian staff members accompanied By pursuing Spencer's Gulf and St. him. Collins did not like Port Phillip and Vincent's Gulf to their extremities he made little attempt to find the best site demonstrated that there was no strait for a colony on the bay or to fully splitting the country into islands. In the explore the lower reaches of the Yarra following year, 1803, he produced a River. By June of 1804, Collins was map of the whole continent showing it permitted to withdraw his whole to be one vast island. company from Port Phillip, transferring Flinders’ survey, which received them to the Derwent River in Van significant backing following Bass's Diemen's Land. (Scott, 1947:93-94) expedition to Western Port and Towards the end of 1804, Lieutenants Wilson’s Promontory, and their joint circumnavigation of Van Diemen's Robbins and Oxley were dispatched in Land eventually led to his publication the cutter Integrity to report on the most suitable place for a post of of A Voyage to Terra Australis and his referral to the continent as “Australia”, occupancy, Port Phillip or Western which gradually came into general use Port. (Committee of the South Gippsland Pioneers Association, and was formally adopted as the name for the newly colonised continent by 1920:2) Port Phillip, at the mouth of Governor Macquarie in 1817. (Scott the Yarra River was preferred. This second opinion on Port Phillip Bay 1947:86) may well have been due to Governor On a scientific expedition for the King's overriding concern for Institution de France, the French preventing French occupation of explored the Victorian coastline during Australia and Collins' unconcealed 1802 with the vessels La Geographe, scorn for Port Phillip, despite previous commanded by Captain Baudin and good reports from Murray and La Naturaliste, commanded by Flinders. (Scott, 1947:93) In any event, Captain Hamelin. After being settlement and exploration of South separated by a storm, La Naturaliste, Gippsland from the Western Port area entered and chartered Western Port, did not occur with as much vigour or while La Geographe, commanded by as early as explorations and Captain Baudin, examined the coast of settlements from the north and east.

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Even the site on the Yarra River was been known by previous maritime not seriously pursued again until explorers, sealers and whalers, Batman claimed it as a 'place for a however, the 1841 discovery focused village' in 1835. attention on the Port Albert area by a more settled population in Melbourne In 1826, the fear of the French at that time, leading to a subsequent establishing settlements in unoccupied settlement boon for Gippsland. parts of Australia led to Captain Wetherall in HMS Fly and the brig During 1841, a party of settlers from Dragon sailing with 20 soldiers, 20 Melbourne, including A. Brodribb, convicts and a few women to Western chartered the vessel Singapore to Port Port. Captain Wright and Lieutenant Albert and named the Albert and Tarra Burchell were in charge. William Hilton Rivers. They were astonished to find Hovell accompanied Captain the tracks of Angus McMillan's, which Wetherall, correcting an error he had they followed to the La Trobe River. made in Corio Bay two years before, (Committee of the South Gippsland thinking it was Western Port at that Pioneers Association 1920:11; time. Wetherall decided to form a Murphy, 1988:4-7 & Morgan, 1997:35) settlement close to where Corinella now stands, six miles north of the Bass River. They were surprised to 2.3 Sealing, whaling and see a number of men clothed in Wattle bark stripping sealskin garments on the beach. These were sealers from Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) who had Environmental context lived on the island for some years and The sea explorers were both followed had built log huts and grown crops of and preceded by the sealing and wheat and maize. whaling merchants, who also sought to make money by using their crews to Early 1840s explorations leading to strip bark from the coastal wattle trees permanent settlement and to shoot kangaroos and wallabies Fourteen years after Wetherall's for their skins, which were then establishment of the Corinella shipped to Europe for sale as hides settlement (which was short lived), and tanning agents. Along with seal Anderson Inlet was further explored by meat and fish, mutton birds were also Assistant Surveyor, TS Townsend, available in countless numbers seven during 1840 following the overland months of the year, from October to exploration of the inlet and the lower April along the shores of Bass Strait, estuary of the Tarwin River by Samuel as Carroll (1989:44) describes: Anderson of Anderson's Station near the Bass River and the shore of When seals became scarce it was to Western Port. (Murphy, 1988:3) the mutton bird that the sealers generally turned for income. The birds During early January of 1841, the provided four saleable products - wreck of the passenger steamer feathers, eggs, oil and the carcass, Clonmel on the outer sandbanks at the split and dried. entrance to the Albert River led to the discovery of "valuable tracts of land During the late 1700s and early 1800s, and a magnificent harbour (Corner the only source of pure, clean oil for Inlet)" by the Melbourne lamps was from elephant seals or Harbourmaster Captain Lewis during whales. This oil was much better than his rescue of the Clonmel's smelly tallow or costly beeswax passengers (Collett, 1994:34 & candles. Morgan, 1997:35). Corner Inlet and the general area may have already

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It is believed that the first Europeans on one trip. That was the hey-day of to build semi-permanent settlements in sealing, the likes of which would never South Gippsland were whalers and be seen again. The seal populations sealers. Physical evidence suggests had been decimated to an almost they had bases at Wilson’s unviable level. (Carroll, 1989:43-44) Promontory as early as 1798. Sealing stations were built on Wilson’s After this, many of the better- organised and financed sealing parties Promontory at Sealer’s Cove, Lady Bay (now Refuge Cove), Bareback withdrew, making room for the Cove and Waterloo Bay soon after emergence of independent operators and gangs of runaway seamen and George Bass reported seeing large colonies of seals in the area. Sealing escaped convicts. The mindless was carried on in the area until the slaughter of seals eventually destroyed the trade. By the 1860s, the 1820s when sealers had to move further west along the shores of Bass three species of seal common to this area, the Australian and New Zealand Strait in search of their quarry. fur seals and the Australian sea lion Sealing were virtually extinct. (Collett 1994:30) Sealing was a tough business. Following Surgeon George Bass' In addition to the havoc sealers naming of Seal Cove at Wilson's brought to both the seal and Aboriginal Promontory in 1798, hundreds of populations, they were also credited colonial, British and American with having brought rabbits to Rabbit adventurers descended on the shores Island off Wilson’s Promontory. and islands of Bass Strait to slaughter (Charles & Loney, 1989:15) seals for their skins and sea elephants The significance of the sealing trade in for their superior oil. Sealing South Gippsland is that it brought companies would set down and pick some of the earliest Europeans who up gangs of sealers and trade had semi-permanent bases at Wilson’s sealskins, kangaroo skins and salt for Promontory. These men had not only clothing, tobacco, rum and had a major impact on the Aboriginal ammunition. Some gangs remained in culture. They were also responsible for one place for years or were left behind one of Australia's greatest by the mother ship. (Carroll, 1989:43) environmental disasters - the near The elephant seals were skinned, their extermination of the fur seal and sea fat - sometimes a foot thick - removed, lion populations from mainland coastal diced and boiled down for the oil. The areas. They may also have been rest of their bodies, except the responsible for the introduction of tongues, which were salted, were rabbits to the mainland. discarded. The fur seals were an easy mark, but were mainly good for their Whaling hides. Whalers had been in the waters off southeast Australia since the late By the end of the 1820s, there were 1790s. They often occupied former over 1800 sealers hunting every bay, sealing stations as their own bases. nook and corner of the Victorian coast. During the whaling season, from May During the summer of 1820-21, the to October, whaling ships came to the Bass Strait islands were seething with region from the United States, Russia sealing activity. Fifteen to twenty and France. (Collett, 1994:30) British vessels and about thirty However, merchants from Launceston American ships were working the in Tasmania financed many of the islands. Violent gales claimed seven of ventures. Inter-colonial rivalry was the crews. The Williams is recorded to very strong from the 1820s on and the have had a cargo of 60,000 sealskins Port Phillip Patriot complained on 12

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August 1841 “the oil industry is in the remaining stations at Wilson’s hands of foreign interests”. (As quoted Promontory were used mainly for in Collett, 1994:30) processing before being abandoned altogether. There is little evidence of contact between the whalers and local As late as 1844, G H Haydon Aborigines and it is possible that the observed Lady's Bay on the east side Aborigines actively discouraged of Wilson’s Promontory while on an contact because of previous attacks overland expedition: on their women by sealers and escaped convicts. Whaling stations Numbers of fish (whales) must have were sometimes used as places of been killed on Lady's Bay, as the refuge for escaped convicts from Van beach is literally strewn with their huge Diemen’s Land, after making their way bones. On landing here in November across Bass Strait. They used these 1844 a discovery was made of a large bases to rest before traveling on to tripod, which had evidently been used Port Phillip. The whaler’s reputations for extracting the oil and was in good for dangerous and violent behaviour preservation. Near the shore lay the were well founded. Collett (1994:31) remains of a Captain Wishart. A piece describes the end of season revelling: of board with carved letters on it informing the visitor that he belonged (The whalers) links with society and to a whaler called The Wallaby and with governments were few and was killed by the blow of a whale's reluctant, their ways secretive ... their fluke in 1830 (Charles & Loney behaviour crude and their work 1989:14) dangerous. ...The whaling ships were The sealing and whaling industries manned by particularly ‘rough men’ were obviously not highly controlled, who landed in Hobart Town at the end although certain industry regulations of the season, where they spent and later government acts were put in money in pubs and brothels and in place in the 1830's and 1840's. fighting and violent behaviour. (Carroll, 1989:86-87; Colwell, 1969:28 In contrast, some of the entrepreneurs & 63-64) Competition and over-fishing who owned and managed sealing and contributed to the decline of the whaling companies were upstanding industry and the focus of the whaling men of high standards and good industry shifted far offshore into the reputations, as we find in the accounts waters of the Antarctic. of the likes of John Griffiths and John and Charles Mills from the Tamar Bass Strait sealing and whaling were River area of Van Diemen's Land highly significant economic activities, being Australia's first viable export (Tasmania). These men were successful merchants, and their industries, pre-dating the rise of the exploits ranged from New Zealand to sheep industry by more than a decade. However, in South Gippsland Wilson’s Promontory to Kangaroo Island in South Australia. They were the sealing and whaling industry was also successful colonisers of the primarily significant due to the environmental destruction it brought township of Port Fairy on Victoria's west coast (refer to Carroll, 1989 and on certain whale species. This served as an early example of unsustainable Powling, 1980). economies based on unsuitable The whaling industry went into a environmental management practices. decline in South Gippsland and in Bass Strait generally during the early 1840s, when the inshore herds had been wiped out. By the late 1840s the

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Wattle Bark stripping connections John and Charles Mills, along with with Tasmania and Port Fairy Alex Campbell (three of the more Black wattle (Acacia melonoyln) grew prominent colonial sealers and along the coastal estuaries in many whalers associated with John Griffiths parts of Victoria and Tasmania and and mutual interests in the Portland gained economic value when Kent and Port Fairy areas) are noted as discovered the suitability of this wattle having been involved in wattle bark tree bark for tanning purposes during stripping and sperm whaling 1819. (Historical Records of Australia, expeditions in the Western Port area III, III, pp.255-256; and Bethell p.43, as during 1835-36 (John Mills Chronicle referenced by Carroll, 1989:35) In c.1901; Harbourmasters Record of Tasmania (then known as Van Vessels Leaving Launceston, 10 Diemen's Land), local farmers in the September 1835 as quoted in Carroll Tamar River area began stripping the 1989:66). It is highly likely that these bark for export to England via Hobart men also engaged in whaling activities and Sydney. in the Wilson’s Promontory area.

During 1834, Captain Hart, master of It seems probable that G.H. Haydon's the schooner Elizabeth of Launceston, reference to the remains of Captain owned by John Griffiths, brought a Wishart near the shore at Lady Bay team of bullocks, a dray and 20 men (Charles & Loney, 1989:14) could for the collection of wattle bark. The have been Captain James Wishart, men were members of Griffiths' whom it is claimed may have named whaling company and employing them the bay of Port Fairy after his cutter in wattle bark stripping work was a Fairy in about 1828. (Powling, 1980:8) method used by Griffiths and other If this is so, this is another example of whaling operators to keep their the manner in which the men of the whaling crews together during the sealing and whaling industry ranged whaling off-season and to prevent along the southeastern coastline of them being employed by the Australia during that time. opposition (Carroll, 1989:62-66; Committee of the South Gippsland Pioneers Association, 1920:5). Hart was able to collect a cargo of 15 tons of wattle bark, which he took to Sydney and sold for export to England.

While in Sydney, Hart chartered the Andromede to collect another 360 tons of bark from Western Port. The bark was transported in Andromede to London during December, 1835 and sold for about £13 per ton. (Carroll 1989:66; Launceston Advertiser 16 April 1835; and Bride (ed.), 1983)

The Western Port and Port Fairy areas were popular bases for wattle bark stripping, but this industry could well have extended to other estuaries within present-day South Gippsland Shire, probably at Anderson Inlet and along the Tarwin River, Shallow Inlet and Corner Inlet shorelines.

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2.4 Explorers by Land McMillan continued to explore the north and central regions of Gippsland Hovell (1826) in four distinct expeditions undertaken During 1826, William Hovell was part a careful forays from base camps of Captain Wetherall's expedition to during 1840 and 1841. He was intent establish a military settlement on the on locating a suitable port from which shores of Western Port, close to where cattle could be transported. After Corinella now stands (Committee of penetrating the South Gippsland Hills, the South Gippsland Pioneers he reached the site of what was Association, 1920:4). This would have referred to as “Old Port” east of been a bittersweet visit for Hovell, as Wilson’s Promontory on 14 February he and Hume had mistakenly reported 1841 (Morgan, 1997:35; Calder, Port Phillip and Corio Bays as being 1981:65) Western Port during their expedition in McMillan's discoveries led to an 1824. (Morgan, 1997:26) immediate pastoral settlement of the The Committee of the South lands around the central plains and Gippsland Pioneers Association lakes of Gippsland, spurred on by (1920:4) described the three Lachlan Macalister's rush to get his exploratory forays made by Hovell people and cattle into this country from the newly established settlement before others. McMillan did not into the surrounding country: excessively promote his discoveries at the time, leaving this up to his Hovell made his first exploration employer Macalister in Sydney, who eastward towards Cape Liptrap, where kept the discoveries quiet for his own he found a considerable area of good purposes. land, but an insufficient supply of Macarthur-Strzelecki (1840) water, and he also found the coal It has most frequently been reported deposits at Cape Patterson. On his that Count Paul Edmund de Strzelecki return he made a twelve days' organised and led the 1840 expedition and penetrated the open exploration of South Gippsland. country between Cranbourne and However, TJ Coverdale (Committee of Western Port. He made a third start, the South Gippsland Pioneers but got entangled in the thickets Association, 1920:100) reported that surrounding the Kooweerup Swamp, this expedition was actually organised and then striking west made his way and paid for by James Macarthur and over the timbered rises behind Mount that Strzelecki was the: Eliza until he reached Port Phillip near Frankston. .. 'navigating lieutenant' of the party McMillan (1839–1841) and was glad of the opportunity Angus McMillan, a Scottish immigrant, afforded him of making certain is generally credited with discovering scientific observations he had long Gippsland, which he named been desirous of undertaking.. ‘Caledonia Australis’ after his country The five-man party set off soon after of origin. (Billis & Kenyan, 1974) In McMillan from the Yass Plains along 1839, an Aboriginal guide named the Murrumbidgee during January Jimmy Gibber showed McMillan the 1840. Their intention was to explore way over the mountains (Great the country for pastoral opportunities Dividing Range) to Omeo, where and: McMillan formed Nublamungee Station on the Tambo River. .. to strike south from the crossing place on the Murrumbidgee, along the meridian of 148 degrees E., to bisect

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the dividing range in latitude 37 On their arrival in Port Phillip, degrees S., to resume the southern Strzelecki published glowing reports in direction and follow windings of the the Port Phillip Patriot of what he had range to Wilson’s Promontory, then to seen. He praised the potential grazing re-bisect it in the direction of and pastoral lands and the valuable Westernport. (Committee of the South blue gum and blackbutt timber (as Gippsland Pioneers Association, reported in Port Philip Patriot 14 1920:9) October 1841 & 22 January 1842) Strzelecki also noted deposits of gold, Macarthur and Strzelecki took the silver, iron and coal, which would later same route through the mountains play defining roles in the economic struck by McMillan and made development of South Gippsland. reasonable progress in the early part Strzelecki reportedly desired fame and of the journey. Strzelecki was known honour, promoting and boasting about for his exaggeration and tendency to his feat, seldom giving credit to compete. Due to this, the expedition Macarthur, McMillan or others. was seen as a rivalry with McMillan, however, the two expeditions had The discoveries of McMillan and complementary functions. (Morgan, Macarthur-Strzelecki expeditions led to 1997:32) the settlement of Gippsland from two different directions - the settlement of The journey became far more difficult north and central Gippsland by when the party reached the La Trobe McMillan's followers from the north, via River, around the Rosedale area, Omeo, and the settlement of South where McMillan's exploratory tracks Gippsland via Port Albert by The ceased. At this point the party began Gipps Land Company and others to to encounter the most difficult terrain follow. (Morgan, 1997:33) However, it so far, with steep hills and gullies, thick took nearly 35 years for the heavily and impenetrable scrub. Plans to timbered area the Macarthur- reach Corner Inlet were abandoned Strzelecki Party explored to be settled and Strzelecki chose the most direct by selectors after 1875. route possible to Western Port, which lead the party through some of the Anderson (1840) most difficult terrain in the South Strzelecki and his party had visited Gippsland Shire. Rations were Samuel Anderson, who had diminishing, and each man had to established a station on the Bass tackle the arduous travelling on just River near Western Port in 1837, after one slice of bacon and one biscuit per surviving their ordeal across the South day. (Committee of the South Gippsland Hills in 1840. Anderson, Gippsland Pioneers Association, inspired by Strzelecki, decided to 1920:10) explore more of Southwest Gippsland and he and his friend, John Thom, The party had with them an Aboriginal travelled northeasterly toward the guide named Charley Tarra, to whom present site of Korumburra. They were credit for the survival of the men is blocked by the same impenetrable generally acknowledged. Tarra’s forest that had inhibited Strzelecki and knowledge of the bush kept them from were diverted southward where they starvation, though they arrived at the eventually came upon an inlet that Corinella settlement in a state of they identified as 'Shallow Lagoon' on extreme exhaustion. All five men had Flinders' chart. They explored further been through a trying physical ordeal. up the inlet, reaching the mouth of the The region was named ‘Gipps Land’ in Tarwin River, which they described as honour of Governor George Gipps of "...from 50 to 70 yards wide, and New South Wales. evidently very deep".

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Anderson later sent a description of lived on "monkey" (koalas), pheasants the area to Superintendent La Trobe, and parrots. suggesting that the river be named after the Superintendent. As Strzelecki Finally, on the 18th day they reached Western Port and were transferred by had already named a river in central Gippsland after La Trobe, the river boat by Surveyor Smith to Dr was given the name 'Tarwin', derived Jamieson's station near present-day Tooradin on 13 April 1841. They were from the Aboriginal word 'darwhin', meaning 'thirsty' or 'fruit of creeper'. thoroughly exhausted and suffering Following Anderson's account of his severely from scrub cuts with their clothes completely torn off them. As discovery, La Trobe sent Assistant Surveyor TS Townsend to further with the Strzelecki expedition, their explore the inlet, which was then survival was largely credited to the Aboriginal bush knowledge of Charlie named Anderson's Inlet. Townsend filed his report to the Melbourne Tarra. (Morgan, 1997:37 - Note: Survey Office during December 1840. Murphy, 1988:4-5 associates this story with a trip made by Odell Raymond in (Murphy, 1988:2-3) August 1842) Brodribb (1841) On 13 February 1841, a party of Subsequently, the Brodribb party settlers from The Gipps Land travelled east, following a route south Company (later the Port Albert of the current Princes Highway Company) arrived at Snake Island on corridor and north of Strzelecki's the Singapore, which they had previous route, through the forests chartered in Melbourne in order to between the Kooweerup Swamp and explore and settle the Port Albert area. the headwaters of the La Trobe River. Members of the Gippsland Company (Committee of the South Gippsland arrived at the Port Albert site within a Pioneers Association, 1920:11) few days following McMillan and were Robinson (1844) astonished to find McMillan's Tracks, The search for a passable livestock which they followed to the La Trobe route between Port Albert and Port River. William Brodribb (or possibly Phillip was made by various parties in Albert Brodribb and Odell Raymond - light of difficulties associated with the see Murphy, 1988:4-7) led an shipping of livestock via the ports at exploratory party from the company, that time. During 1844, the Chief finding and naming the Albert and Protector of Aborigines, Mr GA Tarra Rivers in honour of Prince Albert Robinson and a party of twelve men and their Aboriginal guide, Charley were charged with the job of finding a Tarra, who was the same guide from suitable land route along the coast to New South Wales who had assisted Port Albert from Melbourne. This party Strzelecki during his earlier Gippsland included six native police under exploration. (Morgan, 1997:35) Sergeant Major Windridge, three After also finding and naming Lake convicts and an Englishman named GH Haydon. The party made good Wellington, Brodribb, Charlie Tarra and a group of men turned westward progress to the Tarwin River, but took and marched toward Western Port, several days to ford the river and after a further three-week struggle with abandoning their packhorses after the first day. After 14 days (during ten of depleted provisions, they were met by which it rained without ceasing) they a relief party sent from the settlement of Victoria, the surveyed township forced their way through scrub on the 15th day to lower and less broken adjacent to Port Albert. (Murphy, country (perhaps the Tarwin Lower 1988:5-6) area). Their provisions exhausted they

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HERITAGE Explorers by sea Aside from the place names given for certain geographic features, such as Heritage places identified by the Study Bass Strait, Wilson’s Promontory and that illustrate the theme of Explorers Sealers Cove, there is no physical and first contact include: evidence left in South Gippsland Shire of the maritime explorers or their Aboriginal culture activities. However, diaries, sketches Unfortunately, little physical evidence and other memorabilia from these of pre-European Aboriginal culture expeditions remain with several major heritage remains. Morgan (1997:21) libraries and museums in Australia and indicates that most of the Gunnai's overseas. language and customs were gone by the early 1900s, however, Sealing, whaling & Wattle bark descendants still live today in the stripping Lakes Tyers and other Aboriginal Physical remnants of structures and centres. Many middens and artefacts artefacts dating back to the sealing from former Aboriginal campsites still and whaling days are still in evidence exist along the coast and other areas at Wilson’s Promontory. A number of of South Gippsland Shire. granite and brick structures, building sites, portions of jetties and other One of the greater difficulties of remains of the whaling or later identifying post-contact Aboriginal sawmilling activities are registered on heritage sites and places within South the State Heritage Inventory at Gippsland Shire is the long period of Sealer's Cove, Refuge Cove and time it took to completely settle the Waterloo Bay. Wilson’s Promontory is region. Certainly the Aborigines had among five sealing and whaling sites contact with the early explorers and in Victoria to be reviewed by Karen the sealers and whalers along the Townrow on behalf of Heritage Victoria coast from the late 1700s through the during 1997; however, the promontory 1840s. However, significant settlement was not one of the four sites for which in the southern part of the Shire took an archaeological survey was place after that period, from the 1840s conducted. (Townrow 1997) Wilson’s through the early 1870s. In the Promontory and artefacts from the northern part of the Shire, significant sealing and whaling days continue to European settlement did not occur serve as a reminder of this until the early 1860s. adventurous and environmentally Memory of the Aboriginal culture is regrettable period in Australia's most obviously present today in place history. names derived from Aboriginal Explorers by land language, such as woorayl (lyre bird), There are few remaining physical the Bunurong coastal area, Gunyah examples of the land-based explorers, Gunyah (an area of forest in the upper other than place names, some roads Franklin River area. Recently an that bear explorer names and (in some Aboriginal Toe-Hold Tree has been cases) closely follow early tracks, and identified in the Gunyah Gunyah area. a number of monuments in honour of (Foster Mirror, August, 1998.) The Strzelecki. Australian Heritage Commission and Aboriginal Affairs Victoria within the Victorian Department of Human Services protect most of these sites under the Archaeological and Aboriginal Relics Act 1972.

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32 South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

Settling the land

INTRODUCTION Selection era This era began with the passing of a The process of settling the land, which series of Land Acts in the 1860s, which began in the 1830s, has led to some of by the end of that decade opened up the most profound changes to the almost the whole of Victoria for landscape of the Shire. As we shall selection. By the mid-twentieth century see, the Shire proved most suitable for much of the land in the Shire had been both pastoral and agricultural taken up. As we shall see in the development. The issue of pastoral following chapter, this led to the decline licences and, later, land selection of grazing and the development of a resulted in the subdivision of the land, diverse farming community in which clearing of the splendid forests for dairying, cheese-making, agriculture, stock, crops and for building timbers. In the breeding of sheep and cattle were addition, the nature of the tenure of the major occupations over many decades land (leasehold, freehold, small or large and into recent times. holdings) influenced the nature of the The changes caused by these eras agricultural activities that were carried altered the district landscape forever out, which will be discussed in detail in and created the pastoral scene the following chapter. throughout much of the Shire that is The key phases of development may widely valued today. be summarised as: This chapter incorporates the following Pastoralism era Australian Historic Themes: This era began with the arrival of the ƒ Peopling Australia: Promoting first squatters in the late 1830s, settlement reached its zenith by the 1860s, and began to wane with the opening up of the land for selection from the 1860s onwards. As we shall see in the following chapter, the primary activity associated with this era was grazing, which is still carried on in parts of the Shire today.

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HISTORY leases (sometimes called ‘grass rights’) were able to purchase up to 260 ha. (640 acres) of their runs 3.1 Pastoral era before any land in the locality was made available for purchase by the Introduction general public (Peel, 49-53) This The Pastoral era began with the privilege was given in recognition of squatters who began flooding into the their pioneering efforts. Port Phillip District after 1834. In 1836, The import of this legislation is that it the occupation of squatting was gave landholders more certainty and legalized and this encouraged a thus encouraged them to construct “further wave of fortune hunters”, and more permanent and substantial by 1850 all but the most uninviting or homes, outbuildings and other inaccessible areas of Victoria such as structures, which began to alter the the northern Wimmera, Mallee or landscape of the Shire, a process that Gippsland had been occupied. (Dingle, was further accelerated by the 1984:28, 68) selection era.

As we shall see early settlement As the colonial squatters consolidated through land selection in South their holdings, improved their earlier Gippsland took place during and dwellings, and came to live on their following the period of exploration, stations with their families, rather than sealing and whaling, in the following appointing managers, they began to general sequence: assume the role of landed gentry. ƒ Coastal footholds from 1826 These gentlemen squatters enjoyed a through the 1860s. more affluent lifestyle, entertaining other squatting families, and engaging ƒ Central inland areas of the Tarwin in hunting and other sporting pursuits. River catchment primarily from the 1860s through the 1890s. Coastal Footholds ƒ Strzelecki Ranges and northern During 1803 Lieutenant-Colonel portions of the Shire during the late Collins established a settlement at 1870s through the 1890s. Sorrento on Port Phillip Bay in order to thwart any claims the French may In the beginning, the changes to the have planned to make on Australia. natural landscape were, comparatively The site of present-day Melbourne speaking, relatively small. Labour and was not chosen due to the perceived capital were scarce and on most runs number and aggressiveness of there were no fences apart from those Aborigines at that time. The Sorrento around holding yards. There were no settlement was abandoned within a sown pastures, no fodder crops and year and transferred to Tasmania, only the most rudimentary buildings. where it became the nucleus of Dingle (1984:28) notes that “Because Hobart. they did not own the land and had no security of tenure, squatters kept During 1804, Lieutenants Robbins and housing and fixed equipment to a Oxley in the cutter Integrity examined minimum”. Western Port for a post to occupy, however, they jointly condemned However, in 1847 as part of the Sale Western Port, probably due to the of Waste Lands Act, new regulations swampy nature of the shoreline and were gazetted allowing squatters to the dense thickets of vegetation along purchase pre-emptive rights to their the shores. For the next twenty years, homestead blocks. Pastoral run Victoria was not seriously considered holders who previously held grazing for settlement except by the sealers,

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whalers and occasional escaped Gippsland Pioneers Association, convicts. (Committee for the South 1920:6) Gippsland Pioneers Association Later during 1835, Fawkner and John 1920:2) Batman established a settlement on Hume and Hovell's mistakenly positive the Yarra River that was to become reports on Western Port at the time of the site of Melbourne. Shortly following their expedition to Corio Bay in 1824 that, Samuel Anderson, with the renewed interest in the area. Captain assistance of two or three hired Wetherall commanded a party of 20 workers, established a wheat farm on soldiers and 20 convicts, along with a the banks of the Bass River adjacent few women, other naval officers and to Western Port Bay. The wild cattle William Hovell, which established a from the former Settlement Point settlement at Settlement Point settlement provided an adequate (Corinella) along the Western Port source of beef. Robert Massie joined shore located about 6 miles north of Anderson in partnership at Anderson's the Bass River. station in August 1937, after the first season's wheat crop had been sold for Wetherall also erected a flagstaff and a good profit. (Murphy 1988:1-2) an emplacement of two six-pound Anderson's brother Hugh also later guns on a commanding hill site on joined the station, which was known as Phillip Island, calling this Fort Old Settlement Station. Murphy Dumaresq. (Committee for the South (1988:2) includes the following quote Gippsland Pioneers Association by Samuel Rawson, a visitor to the 1920:4) This settlement was farm, who wrote this description of the abandoned within a year, along with a station in his journal on 9 February mob of cattle that multiplied and 1840: spread throughout the Bass and Powlett River catchments over the Massie and Anderson have about 150 following years. acres under the plow - they sold their wheat at 23s. a bushel, and cleared Interest in the Port Phillip and Western altogether by the farm upwards of Port districts for livestock grazing by £1400. The climate here being so Van Diemen's Land pastoralists grew superior to Sydney that there is a during 1826, however, applications for failure in the crop; they keep no sheep land grants were refused in that year. or cattle... Although various wattle bark stripping crews may have set up temporary Grazing and cattle runs camps along the shores of Western During 1839, Robert Jamieson, who Port in the meantime, it was not until had a station along the eastern shores 1835 that John Pascoe Fawkner and of Port Phillip, took possession of a others attempted to sail the schooner run at the head of Western Port Bay Enterprise to Western Port in order to that was afterwards known as Yallock establish a settlement. Fawkner's ship or Jamieson's Station (Committee for was stymied by bad weather and sea the South Gippsland Pioneers sickness and was returned to Van Association, 1920:8). Once initial Diemen's Land before the group had settlements had been established sailed past Tasman Heads. The others along the coast, a second wave of who reached Western Port were so settlers came to South Gippsland in discouraged by the appearance of the search of pastoral runs. Some came place in the cold winter rain that they overland from New South Wales, abandoned the area as unfit for others through the new sea ports. settlement. (Committee for the South Following his expedition to the Omeo area from the Monaro Plains of New

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South Wales in 1839, Angus McMillan manure or wasted. (Committee for the came to settle in Gippsland in January South Gippsland Pioneers 1840. McMillan spent his first months Association, 1920:11-12) bringing 500 head of cattle down from The Gippsland Company was to the mountains, cutting tracks through the rugged countryside and preparing established a settlement at Port Albert a homestead. His pastoral run, Bushy and by June 1841, the township of Victoria had been surveyed and Park, was located on the Avon River between the present day towns of settlers were beginning to arrive in large numbers from Melbourne. From Boisdale and Briagalong. Port Albert, the settlers opened up the The effect of McMillan’s established interior of Gippsland. They brought cattle run and Strzelecki’s enthusiasm with them herds of Shorthorn cattle for the region led to a rush for land in and Merino sheep. Within two years, South Gippsland in the latter half of the plains around Port Albert were 1840. Settlers from Port Phillip and almost entirely taken up by settlers, New South Wales were attracted to and the coastal plains of South the region for a number of reasons. Gippsland were being taken up for The neighbouring pastoral areas cattle runs during the same period. across the ranges in New South Wales were becoming overcrowded. Those ‘Tarwin Meadows’, located near the coast just east of the Tarwin River, who wanted to increase their land holdings were forced to look further was one of the more fertile areas to be afield and this resulted in settlers from found between Port Albert and Western Port and was taken up as a New South Wales beginning to drove stock to South Gippsland via Port cattle run by George Raff in 1842. His Albert and the overland routes blazed nearest run holder was Alexander Chisholm, who held the grazing rights by McMillan and the Macarthur- Strzelecki Party. (However, not to 256,000 acres of land known as the following the section of route through 'Wild Cattle Run' or 'The Wild Cattle Country', located between the Powlett the dense forests of the Strzelecki Ranges.) River and the Tarwin River.

Those from Port Phillip who were keen At that time the Run had a carrying to take advantage of the much-praised capacity of one beast per 400 acres and was rented for an annual sum of grazing lands in South Gippsland were hindered by the isolation of the place. £10 plus threepence per head of There were no established overland cattle. Raff sold his lease of the ‘Tarwin Meadows’ run in 1843 to routes from Melbourne and there was no harbour through which to transport Edward Hobson who in turn goods and livestock by sea. This transferred it during 1845 to Alexander Hunter in partnership with Raff and a would continue to be one of the enduring difficulties of creating Mr Bourne. All of these leaseholders profitable commercial ventures in used ‘Tarwin Meadows’ as a resting place or staging camp for stock en South Gippsland. route from Western Port to Port Albert The colony experienced commercial and none of them spent much time panic in the sheep industry during there. (Murphy, 1988:11) 1841. While stocking up the new A number of cattle runs covered the country, the size of flocks had increased beyond the local demand. South Gippsland area, as evidenced As the values for meat and wool by a map reproduced in The Land of the Lyre Bird (Committee of the South decreased, the sheep were boiled down for tallow and the refuse used for Gippsland Pioneers Association, 1920:14). It is estimated that the

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boundaries on this map probably pre- date 1851 as they do not indicate the extended ‘Tarwin Meadows’ boundaries associated with the purchase of that tract by George Black at that time. (Charles & Loney, 1989:31) However, the cattle run boundaries do not indicate which areas were actually grazed at that time. The 'Wild Cattle Country' and 'Tarwin East' were taken up by the early 1840s. Other cattle and sheep runs were opened up in the country between Port Albert and Wilson’s Promontory during the mid-1840s. However, the livestock was subject to Coastal Disease and many of these runs were not successful. The coast runs of ‘Torbinurruck’, ‘Red Bluff’, ‘Upper Plains’ and the ‘Westaway’ were taken up in late 1850. The ‘Yanakie’ run of 34,000 acres was established in 1850. The ‘Kilcunda’ Run was taken up in the early 1860s and the ‘Ryanston’ Run in 1869.

The northern runs of ‘Strathmore’, ‘Mt Franklin’, and ‘Kangaroo’ were taken up in 1861 in speculation only when it looked as though McDonald was going to find a roadway through to Sale. The permits on at least two of these runs were soon forfeited. (Committee of the South Gippsland Pioneers Association 1920:13) and it is unlikely that they were operated as commercial runs until after the dense scrub and timber were cleared during the late 1870s, by which time the runs would have been subdivided for selection.

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3.2 Selection era became “the foundation stone of the selection era”. (Dingle, 1984:28, 68) Introduction The selection era thus stimulated the The Selection era within the Shire was development of larger and more ushered in with the cutting up of the permanent settlements, which will be large pastoral runs following the discussed in a later chapter. passage of a series of Land Acts, As we shall see, George Black's which enabled the widespread success in developing the livestock creation of smaller freeholdings. This industry at Tarwin Meadows, events marked the waning of the pastoral era surrounding the discovery of gold at and profoundly altered the nature of Stockyard Creek in 1870 and attempts land use within the Shire by to mine coal at Kilcunda in 1873 led to encouraging the carving up of the the selection of many more leases in surveyed Crown Allotments into the 1870s, putting the Tarwin Lower smaller and smaller farm properties. area on the map. (Charles & Loney, As we shall see, this led to closer 1989:29-35) settlement with an increased emphasis Still, this process was slow compared on more intensive forms of agriculture with other areas of the State with such as dairying and cropping in place natural barriers such as the almost of grazing as major rural occupations. impenetrable forests proving an almost This in turn accelerated the process of insurmountable barrier. However, the change that was begun during the opening of the land was to receive a Pastoral era and led to perhaps the boost in the form of the discovery of most significant changes to the pre- gold and coal, which brought a rush of contact landscape of the Shire. While new settlers to the area and led to the Pastoral era left few permanent improvements to transport and access. marks upon the landscape, the advent of farming as well as legislative Grazing permit-holders and early requirements resulted in more visible selectors pattern of development. During 1851 or 1852, a Scottish immigrant named George Black For example, one of the requirements purchased the Tarwin Meadows run of the Land Acts was for owners to for £60. The run extended at that time undertake improvements such as from Cape Paterson to Cape Liptrap. fencing. New and increasingly larger Black cleared the land of tea-tree homesteads and outbuildings were scrub, drained the swamps and sowed erected and fencing, hedges and the cleared lands with clovers and windrows of trees were established to English fodder grasses. He bred cattle mark property boundaries, to protect and horses, for which he made a good stocks and crops from wind, and also profit at saleyards in Melbourne during for aesthetic effect. As a result, the that city's goldrush boomtime. By relatively open landscape of the 1869, Black rented, owned or leased Pastoral era was transformed to the over 100 square miles (75,900 acres) more enclosed landscape that still of five original old runs, taking good exists in much of the rural parts of the advantage of the 1869 Land Act that Shire today. authorised selection before survey of areas up to a maximum of 320 acres In addition, the selection era also at a price of £1 per acre. He brought profound social and cultural established a dynasty at Tarwin changes to the Shire. Whereas Meadows that would extend over three squatters were usually ‘male, young generations, lasting until 1979. More and unmarried’ and conditions made it importantly, George Black had difficult to sustain family life, the family demonstrated the great potential of the

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area to many others. At the expiration In many cases families selected of Blacks original leases in the 1870s, several blocks adjacent to each other. the government opened the land up to Some of these strategies have stood general selection. the test of time, such as the 1878 selection of adjacent blocks for the The Land Acts three Campbell brothers by their The selection era in the Shire reached father, Donald Campbell, in the its zenith with the passing of a series Mardan area. Those properties and of Land Acts in the mid to late the three adjacent homesteads remain nineteenth century, which allowed the intact today, surviving three selection and sale of Crown lands. generations of change. However, in Under the 1860 Land Sales Act three some circumstances, these extensive million acres of country lands were family commitments led to forfeiting surveyed into allotments of 32 to 260 the land when the vast tracts of forest ha. (80 to 640 acres) and made proved impossible to clear adequately available for selection. No person to bring the land into the required level could normally select more than 640 of production. (Murphy, 1988:15) acres annually. The land had to be paid for outright, or half paid for and From 1850 to 1890, Victoria was half leased. entirely surveyed, with large tracts of land released for selection under the Further areas were opened up for different Land Acts passed by the selection under the Land Act of 1862 Victorian Parliament. Registered and the 1865 Amendment Act. Finally, government surveying parties of eight the new Land Act in 1869 opened up to twelve men, including six or eight the whole colony of Victoria for axemen, two chain men, a head selection, including unsurveyed land. surveyor and his assistant would mark The selectors of unsurveyed land and chart the allotments, ensuring that pegged out their claims and then each block of land had adequate water applied for survey. Under this Act land rights, access to roads and that there was held under Licence for three years was provision for townships where before it could be purchased. necessary. The work was often difficult Furthermore, selectors were required and dangerous and the surveyors to live on and make improvements to were in great demand by competing the land before the final purchase. selectors who wanted to get their pegs These included the construction of a into the ground first and have their house and fences, and the cultivation allotment registered before someone of crops. (‘The Lands Manual’, p.34) else did so. (Murphy, 1988:23-24) An amendment to the Land Act in Selectors commonly employed bush 1878 increased the period of license guides to assist in their search for the and lease from 3 to 20 years and right block of land. John Gallagher was reduced the rent by half to one shilling one of the more skilled and well- per acre per year. Any person over 18 regarded bushmen who acted virtually years of age, except a married woman as a real estate agent of the day in the living with her spouse, was eligible as Mirboo area from his camp on long as they could meet the conditions Liddiard's Track where it descended of enclosing the land with a fence and into the East Tarwin River. He assisted cultivating at least one tenth of the many selectors in accessing various total area. Purchase of the land blocks with safety in the selection of outright could be made at the end of their choice, ensuring that they met the the lease period or the lease could be requirements of viewing and marking further extended. their selection prior to a government survey.

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After a prospective settler lodged their applied to some of the densest forests application for an unknown area of 320 of enormous trees up to 300 feet high acres, they would travel to South and fiercely foreboding understorey Gippsland, meeting their guide at a known in the world. tavern in one of the townships or at a camp in the scrub. The bushmen Once a section of understorey was usually charged each selector £1 per cleared the successively larger trees were felled and the limbs lopped off. day or £10 if a block was selected. It usually took a minimum of three days The scrub cutting usually took place between September and the end of to make a selection. November. From December through Between 1877-79, almost 200 the end of February, the downed selections were made in the Mirboo timber was generally left to dry out. district, most of which were assisted When a good burning day occurred in by Gallagher or his employees March, the neighbours would be (Eunson, 1978:15-21). Once the informed and a burn would be lit after settlers had their blocks of land 1.00 pm. Afterwards the timber would surveyed and approved, they began be "picked-up" by cutting it into the task of clearing and fencing their suitable lengths for handling or by land in order to meet the requirements heaping the felled timber and burning of selection and to make it productive it off (South Gippsland Pioneers for their survival. Association, 1920:54-76)

Clearing the land and bushfires In many cases, a forest of large dry The clearing of scrub and forests by trees (dead stags) 150 to 200 feet high graziers and selectors, which included were left standing after the the use of fire by man and natural understorey scrub had been cleared bushfires has had a profound influence and burned. As the sapwood of these on the way South Gippsland looks trees rotted and dried, they became an today along with extreme fire hazard to the selectors.

The foothill tracts in the southern parts To facilitate the process of clearing the of the Shire were covered in open pioneers used fires to burn off cleared Messmate/Peppermint or Stringybark scrub and forest areas during the forests. The higher altitude hills and period of selection. Unfortunately mountains offered greater challenges modern fuel-reduction methods were with closed Mountain Ash and Blue not established before some of the Gum forests with dense understorey early natural bushfires occurred in (Reichl 1870 as shown in Murphy, South Gippsland. In addition, the use 1988:15). of fire as a management tool has sometimes not been effective or has A section of the forest would be literally backfired, resulting in cleared to allow the construction of a extensive damage to the forests, hut in an area safe from falling trees. private properties and the occasional Then the clearing of the rest of the loss of human life. block proceeded, either by the selector's themselves or, for those with One of the worst bushfire disasters enough money, by gangs of scrub known as "Red Tuesday" occurred in cutters hired to speed up the February 1898, burning 1000 square development of the property. In other miles of South Gippsland, in the area parts of Australia, the term 'scrub south of the Central Gippsland cutting' refers to the cutting of sapling Railway running to the coast and from forests, dense tea-tree woodlands or Western Port Bay to Mirboo. mallee scrub. However, in South (Committee of the South Gippsland Gippsland, the term was equally Pioneers Association, 1920:353)

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During 1906 another major bushfire influential in shaping the lives and occurred in the hill country in the area landscapes of South Gippsland. north of Foster and Toora. This fire Houses and outbuildings raced through the forests of the The kind of house built by a selector Boolarra area, over Mt. Square Top varied according to the particular and on towards Toora before a change circumstances. In the words of a in wind direction turned the fire up Mt. contemporary observer, 'many Best. Collett (1994:199) conveys the selectors gradually make for harrowing account of Frank and Sarah themselves very comfortable homes, Lonsdales' loss of five of their children but the house of the struggling man at Mt. Best, while Frank helped just settled up on the land and hard neighbours save their house: pressed for cash is often a mere bark While he was away, the fire came up shed, or for a time even a tent. to the Lonsdales' house. His wife However, “a man with a wife and Sarah and the eldest daughter carried family and some little capital... water to wet the house, but it caught usually... begins erecting for them a alight. Mrs Lonsdale then sent her more or less substantial house, other seven down on to the road for probably laying out at the same time a safety. When it was clear that there small garden to grow vegetables etc.” was no hope of saving the house (Cassell’s ‘Picturesque Australasia’ ed. Sarah Lonsdale and her daughter ran E.E. Morris, 1889 facsimile copy, down to the road to see if the children pp.473-474) were safe. But the bush was in flames Often, the ‘more or less substantial and she found four of the children house’ was the second or third house running back towards the house. She to be constructed, once a property had told them to wait on the road while she been established and made profitable. looked for the three others. A little In some cases, the earlier house was further she came across the body of incorporated into the new dwelling or, Iris, aged 5 years, but could go no on other occasions, it was retained further to look for Gertrude and and continued to be lived in by a Claude. She covered the other relative or farm help, or was converted children with a blanket and scrambled for another use such as a hayshed. down to the creek for water. When she returned to the road Olive was dead, Fences, hedges and windrows her body sheltering the baby. The Priestly (1984:92) notes that: mother took Francis and Ivy down to the creek, but a burning branch fell Land ownership made a permanent crushing Francis. The other girl, Daisy imprint on the Victorian countryside initially in the shape of boundary Harriet, died on the road. Sarah Lonsdale then carried the unconscious fences. The land surveys which were a and dying Francis to the Pocklington's necessary prelude to sale were patterned according to the grid of true House. As she ran along the road with Francis in her arms, she met her meridians and parallels which had husband who had come looking for his been defined in the systematic geodetic survey of Victoria begun in family and told him that five of their children were dead. It all happened in September 1858. a few minutes In the Shire, hedges were used from Other significant bushfires have the late nineteenth century onward as an efficient form of fencing. Windrows occurred in South Gippsland during the years of 1921, 1934, and 1939. of trees were also planted, chiefly (Collett, 1994) Fire is an Australian Monterey Cypresses or Pines to protect stock and crops. These trees legacy, but has been especially

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and hedges also had an aesthetic Koonwarra was severely damaged value that added a picturesque quality during this flood. (Murphy, 1988:235) to the landscape and consequently Downstream on the Tarwin at the “bear witness to the immigrants desire property known as ‘Tullaree’, 4000 to have familiar surroundings in this sheep and 180 bullocks were strange new land”. (Berwick- drowned. (Collett, 1994:235) Pakenham Historical Society, 1982:9) This led to a further reaction by Usually planted in straight lines along the edges of paddocks and along landholders to snag (clear) the boundaries, they closely followed the vegetation from the river banks in order to minimise future damage done north-south and east-west lines marked out by the allotment surveyors by floodwaters. This was a and hence emphasised the grid layout continuation of such clearing along the floodplain of the river conducted forty- imposed by the Government survey five years earlier from 1889 to 1894. upon the landscape. During this earlier period, all trees The most common hedging plant used likely to fall in the river were cut within in the Shire was English Hawthorn or a distance of 1.5 chains between Whitethorn (C. monogyna), one of a Tarwin Lower and one mile south of number of different plant varieties Meeniyan. used throughout Victoria in the In 1935, some of the land owners nineteenth century. The early settlers brought with them the art of ‘thorn- requested the Minister for Water setting’ or ‘layering’, as practised in Supply for assistance with snagging and with the straightening of the river England, which by interlacing the upper and lower branches, hedges by cutting thorough the bends. were rendered cattle and sheep proof. However, Murphy (1988:237) notes that not all people were of the same (Beaumont et al, 1959:98) view on this matter: Floods The South Gippsland area is also There was a difference of opinion as to known for its floods, which to a large the wisdom of cutting bends in the extent have been exacerbated by the river. It speeded up the flow of water clearing of forests from large tracts of but resulted in increased erosion. At land. Some settlement also occurred Dunlop's cut the water was running at on low lying river flats, particularly fifteen miles per hour but was sluggish around the Tarwin. further downstream. Mr. Wyeth of Inverloch stated that there was four to During 1885, torrential rains let to the five foot more water coming down the flooding of the Franklin River during river than twenty-five years ago, and April and the loss of a substantial log the Inlet was becoming silted up with bridge, leaving Mary O'Dea and her mud. family stranded until another bridge could be constructed (Collett, 1994:142-145). Additional floods during 1886 and 1887 made matters worse, destroying many culverts and roads.

One of the biggest floods recorded occurred on the Tarwin River in December of 1934, causing severe damage to bridges and road networks in the former Woorayl Shire. One of the wooden trestle railway bridges at

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3.3 Village settlements, The Leongatha Labour Colony was the homestead associations only labour colony ever developed in and labour colonies Victoria. It was established during 1893 one mile northeast of Leongatha on 822 acres of forested land. The During 1893, the government passed selection of the site was aided by the the Settlement of Lands Act, which opening of the Great Southern Railway provided for the development of and a railway station in Leongatha Village Communities, Homestead during 1891. The colony was Associations and Labour Colonies. established through the efforts of a These community welfare/land high level committee that included the settlement schemes were largely Premier of Victoria, Archbishop Carr developed by various charity and and the President of the Trades Hall. Christian church organisations in response to the massive Approximately 52 men came to the unemployment and hardship Labour Colony in the first year, first experienced by thousands of Victorian living in tents and gradually families during the economic recession establishing buildings for their living that followed the 1880s land boom. quarters and farm activities as the land was cleared, a saw mill erected and a During the first year of the Act, 4,000 small brick kiln established. The men men applied to participate in these were paid 1/6d per week in the schemes, resulting in 78 village beginning and up to 4/- per week. settlements being established in They were expected to leave when Victoria. In South Gippsland, ten they had accrued £2 credit or before village settlements were set up at that if they could find alternative work. Childers, Darlimurla, Kardella, They were also provided with rations Koonork (Hoddle Range), Mardan, equivalent to those given to the Meeniyan, Mirboo North, Mirboo defence forces. South, Tarwin and Strzelecki. (Murphy, 1983:2-12) Homestead Associations The Labour Colony was generally were also established at Ruby and in successful, despite some initial Meeniyan. scepticism from a few Leongatha area residents. It lasted for 26 years, until it The Village Settlements and was finally closed and subdivided as a Homestead Associations primarily Soldier Settlement by the government. serviced families who were homeless and needed both a place to live and means of surviving. These communities had mixed results throughout Victoria and South Gippsland. However, they did not meet the needs of unmarried and unattached unemployed men or those of unemployed men who had families that had homes that they did not want to leave. In such cases, the concept of a Labour Colony, where they could go for a few months to earn a living, was more appealing. The Labour Colony, although subject to Government subsidies, was intended to become self-supporting soon after establishment.

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3.4 Soldier and Closer investigate the complaints of soldier Settlements settlers in the Victory Hall at Leongatha in 1925.

Following World War 1 and again after The Yanakie Land Settlement Scheme World War 2, a series of Soldier and established after World War 2 Closer Settlement Acts were passed provided a more successful result. by the Federal and Victorian Approximately 12,000 acres of the Goverments to provide agricultural Yanakie Run was acquired and land for returned servicemen, primarily developed for soldier settlement farms from undeveloped Crown Lands or with sixteen blocks made available in abandoned selections. Soldier 1954, and another thirty blocks added settlements were established in under a special Land Act of 1959. By several areas of South Gippsland, 1967, the Yanakie Settlement was including the Mirboo North, Gunyah regarded as one of Victoria's most and Yanakie areas. successful settlement projects, having resulted in forty-six farms within a In the hill country near Foster and at radius of two and a half miles. Gunyah a number of Soldier (Crawford, 1983) Settlement allotments were established in 1922. Despite being provided with low interest loans and other assistance, many of the soldier settlers had abandoned their blocks by 1926 due to the difficulties experienced with fighting rabbits and bracken, their inexperience with farming, a poor butter market, record local dairy production and resulting low incomes. (Collett, 1994:225) This pattern was repeated in the Woorayl Shire and in Korumburra as well. (Murphy, 1988:204-205 and Hartnell, 1974:143-147)

During 1919, the Soldier Settlement Commission subdivided the Leongatha Labour Colony into four dairy farms of 100 acres each and one orchard block along Coalition Creek. The Mt Vernon Estate near Berry's Creek was also purchased for group settlement and subdivided into twelve blocks for returned soldiers. The local repatriation committee made some complaint that few of these blocks had been allocated to returned soldiers from the local community. In addition, confusion over whose responsibility it was to provide roads in the new subdivisions caused delays to the settlers in establishing their homes and farms. In the end, a Royal Commission held hearings to

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HERITAGE Many fine new homesteads were constructed in the wake of the 1898 fires as farms became more Heritage places identified by the Study established and prosperous. Examples that illustrate the theme of Settling the include ‘Devonscot’ at Arawata. Land include: ‘Greenfields’ near Fish Creek, and ‘Argyle’ near Foster. Pastoral era There are few buildings associated However, perhaps the most visible with the earliest period of pastoralism impact of early pastoralism and and settlement of the Shire in the era settlement is the cultural landscape of immediately following selection. The cleared farmland with windrows of most significant reason for this is the exotic trees such as Monterey Pines impact of the great bushfires, and Cypresses that has largely particularly in 1898, which destroyed replaced the original dense forests, many early buildings throughout the tea-tree thickets and woodlands. Shire. Village settlements, homestead The only known building associated associations and labour colonies with the Pastoral era is Hobson's Little trace exists of these early wattle and daub hut, which was settlements apart from traces of the relocated in 1974 from the ‘Tarwin original subdivision pattern at Kardella. Meadows’ property to Coal Creek A house at Kardella may be one of the Heritage Village. A number of original village settler houses. buildings still survive at the ‘Tarwin While most traces of the Leongatha Meadows’ property itself, but these are Labour Colony have vanished, the thought to be associated with the Study has identified two Oak Trees development of the property in the that mark what was once the entrance. freehold selection era during the late nineteenth and early twentieth Soldier and Closer Settlements centuries. Many houses from the Yanakie Soldier Settlement Scheme are still extant Selection era along with the General Store. There are many houses and farm buildings associated with the Selection era. Some of the earliest surviving examples of homesteads, which are thought to pre-date the 1898 bushfires include:

ƒ ‘Oakwood’, the former Charlton family home at Grassy Spur. ƒ ‘Fern Tree Vale’, the Hodgson family home at Hedley. ƒ ‘Wolonga’ at Kongwak. ƒ ‘Cluanie’ (Former ‘Lyre Bird Mound’) at Leongatha South. ƒ The three Campbell properties and homesteads at Mardan, which were originally selected in 1885. ƒ The ‘Chock and Log’ cottage at Poowong.

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Working the land

INTRODUCTION

Explorers and settlers harboured with dairying or cropping. Sometimes dreams of a great future for South the activities carried out on a single Gippsland built on rich natural mineral property changed over time with new deposits, however, the most important ownership. industry to the Shire since the earliest time of settlement has been agriculture, These activities had been carried on and in particular grazing and dairying, before, however, the opening up of the which has played the most influential land for freehold ownership provided an role in establishing a settled and viable important impetus, which was further European presence in South Gippsland stimulated in the early twentieth century and formed the economic foundations by improvements in farming of the Shire. This has required battling technologies (that were promoted by against a difficult environment to local agricultural organisations), State impose European farming methods. and Federal government support, and expanding export markets. The As we have seen, agriculture had its exponential growth of the population of beginnings in the Shire with the Victoria following the gold rush also pastoral runs established Tarwin vastly increased local demand for fresh Meadows during the 1840s and 1850s. produce. Initially limited to grazing it quickly diversified to include dairying and Unlike some other more marginal cropping as the land was opened up farming districts, farmers within the and settled. Shire were, by and large, quite successful (the failures of some Soldier Today, the economy of the Shire Settlements in the hill country remains almost exclusively based on notwithstanding), a fact that is owed to rural industries and it is one of the most the rich soils of the area and good important agricultural districts in the rainfall. State. As we have seen, the rise of farming was closely aligned with the Not all of the early farming pursuits decline of the Pastoral era, and the have survived, however, the changes changes in land tenure brought about they made to the landscape are still by the Selection era, which stimulated clearly evident in the distinctive cultural the development of agricultural landscapes that exist today. industries including dairying, and in This chapter incorporates the following later years cropping. Grazing and Australian Historic Themes: breeding of sheep and cattle declined somewhat, but still remained an ƒ Developing Local, Regional and important activity. These activities were National Economies: Developing not always carried on exclusively and Primary Production many farms often combined grazing

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HISTORY Black was fortunate to be a well- educated man whose success was due to his knowledge and skills in 4.1 Grazing agriculture and husbandry. One of Black's major mistakes however, was Introduction introducing rabbits. They bred so Grazing was the first major form of rapidly he then had to loose domestic primary production within the Shire cats in an effort to keep numbers and continues until the present day. It down. (Collett, 1994:51) was undertaken on leases from the Other pastoralists in the southern part 1830s during the Pastoral era and of the Shire did not other succeed as continued on the first freehold Black did. Yanakie run, though open properties during the Selection era. and grassy could not carry large Early difficulties numbers of cattle. Cattle had to be Pastoralists coming into the South shifted constantly from one side of the Gippsland area from Port Phillip and run to the other to avoid ‘coastal Port Albert had a similar set of disease' which was later found to be obstacles to overcome to Angus caused by a deficiency in the soil. McMillan and those who followed him Yanakie Run was tried by a overland from New South Wales. succession of pastoralists, who one South Gippsland was largely covered after another could not make it pay. In by forests, woodlands, scrub or 1859; partners James McKeitch and wetlands that did not lend themselves Henry Davis decided to try wool to productive grazing and carrying growing on Yanakie, but this too was a capacities were considered low. failure. In the beginning the area lacked a Richard Turnbull of Port Albert held suitable coastal road for cattle. The runs on Wilson’s Promontory at Mt cost of shipping an entire herd was Hunter, Mt Oberon, Sealers Cove and prohibitive and attracted act high Darby River during the 1850s. But insurance premiums due to the sheep and cattle on these runs were dangerous Gippsland coastline. also subject to coastal disease and (Collett, 1994:39) Turnbull forfeited the runs in 1859. Better coastal tracks were opened up A succession of leaseholders in 1843 and 1844, with government continued to operate from runs in the assistance, but they were still difficult northeast corner of Wilson’s for cattle and stock losses were often Promontory until 1872. Only a few great during the journey. Settlers head of cattle were grazed at any one reported .stock lost in the scrub, time. (McNiven, 1995:12) injured and even taken by sharks at the mouth of the Tarwin River. Cattle Runs As we have seen ‘Tarwin Meadows’ was one of the best grazing areas available in South Gippsland during the 1840s and 1850s and the success of George Black in improving the pastures and grazing this area encouraged the taking up of land for selection during the late nineteenth century.

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Livestock trading and the market stock was sent by rail Livestock trading has had a long to the larger markets. Mirboo North history in South Gippsland since the was a good example of this. Later, as first bullock herds were pushed petrol driven trucks and better highway through the coastal stock route in the transport became available, the 1840s. In fact, Stockyard Creek took railways became less important. Truck its name from the livestock enclosure transport allowed the flexibility for city that was built on its banks as a resting buyers to purchase livestock at the place between Port Albert and the country sale yards and take it back to Tarwin River. Murphy (1988:82) the city, buy it directly from individual describes the early development of farmers, or have it delivered to the livestock selling in the Leongatha Melbourne or provincial city markets area: for purchase.

As the area of cleared land increased Aside from cattle and sheep sale each year, so also did the stock yards, the pig sales in Toora were a numbers with a resultant need for weekly event during the 1920s and stock agents, yards and auctioneers to 1930s. As the farmers usually brought bring buyer and seller together. The their wives to town for shopping and first set of cattle yards for sale socialising while they bought and sold purposes in the Leongatha- pigs, these days became known as Koorooman area was set up adjacent 'Pig and Lady Days'. (Collett, to Horn's Roadside Inn on the 1994:238) Coalition Creek by G. McCord, with the first sale being conducted in Since the demise of Melbourne's October 1890. This site proved historic New Market Saleyard in unsuitable as the following year they Kensington during the late 1980s, were shifted into Leongatha onto the good examples of rural and provincial lower side of Roughead Street, not far town saleyards have taken on new from the Long Street Corner. importance in Victoria.

Several stock agents became The Koonwarra Saleyard is a more established in the Leongatha district recent example established in 1982, during the 1890s and several of them but may carry the distinction of one of built their own sale yards or trucking the few saleyards to have been yards. One of these agents was John designed to lessen its impact on the Murray Peck, an American who had water quality of nearby streams, to been one of the founders of Cobb & recycle the nutrients from the manure Co. The stockyards built at Leongatha into a tree plantation, and to blend into by Peck of split rails and posts the landscape as viewed from the featured a roofed sale ring rotunda highway using a combination of grassy through which the cattle could pass, mounds and trees. protecting the buyers from inclement weather. (Murphy, 1988:83)

Prior to the existence of railways, livestock was either sold or traded locally or at sale yards in nearby townships or driven overland to the larger markets in places like Melbourne and Sale. As the railways were built, larger sale yards and trucking yards became established in the towns that had railway stations

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4.2 Dairying (Committee of the Gippsland Pioneers Association, 1920:240)

Introduction Dairying, often combined with mixed The dairying industry has been of farming, was a favoured option for continuing importance to South pioneer farmers, which was later Gippsland since the late 1800s and promoted by swamp drainage, closer became South Gippsland's most and soldier settlement schemes, the important industry after the demise of introduction of refrigeration on ships coal mining (See Chapter 5). Bowden and better rail links to ports, and the (1970:95-96) concludes that: temporary shortages of dairy produce The most important industry in in Europe and the United States Korumburra in 1895, after coal, was during the First and Second World making butter. The real aristocrat of Wars. Changes in farm operation and the Korumburra district was the dairy transport led to the increasing use of cow, destined to be represented on internal combustion machines for the hill by a splendid butter factory. milking machines, farm cultivation and milk can collection. Once the arduous task of clearing land was completed, many people on larger However, until the late nineteenth selections took advantage of pasture century dairymen close to Melbourne to fatten sheep and cattle. Dairying concentrated upon supplying the soon became the major component of growing urban market with whole milk. most farming, as it was recognised Elsewhere, including the Shire milk that this was the quickest and most had to be turned into butter (or efficient way to get a return from newly cheese) if it was to reach its market in cleared land. Selections were an edible condition. (Dingle, 1984:115) generally covered in stumps, large and Thus, the dairying industry is small, which ruled out cultivation. represented by two key phases in the Shire; cheese and butter making The stumps and the mud also made predominantly in the late nineteenth herding the cows into the yards at century, and whole milk production milking time something of a challenge: from the early twentieth century onwards. In the early part of the milking season the mud was more than knee-deep, The suitability of the Shire for cheese and when a cow had to be bailed up making was described in an 1885 the milker would walk out on a log that article in the Gippsland Mercury (as had been hauled into the yard for the quoted in Eunson, 178:118) when purpose, and with a long pole would talking about the process carried out poke the cow toward the bail. Having on the selection of a Mr Joseph got her nailed up and legroped (sic) a Couper: bucket of water was required to wash the udder after the mud had been What lends greatly to successful scraped off with a piece of shingle. It cheese making, is mainly the fact that usually appeared as if the cow the grass remains green throughout required was always in the farthest the whole year. In fact it never has but corner of the yard and in the deepest one colour. This characteristic feature mud, and to get her towards the bail furnishes cheese and butter makers meant disturbing all the other cows in with two seasons, so to speak, instead the yard, who would splash round in of only one, as in the rest of the the mud while the one wanted tried to colony. Mr Couper therefore engages dodge round them back to her in cheese-making with a peculiar favourite muddy corner advantage. There is little doubt, that cheese making will assuredly become

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an industry of great importance, and powered either by a small steam together with butter making, will form engine or by horse works similar to an essential factor in hastening a not those used in mining. far distant prediction that Mirboo will In 1889, the Deakin-Gillies be the centre of the wealthiest government recognised the potential agricultural district in Victoria. these two innovations could have for The cheese and butter produced for the dairy industry and decided to market was initially transported to provide government incentives to Melbourne from the district by four encourage farmers to enter the export routes. In the south it was packed to industry. The government. introduced Anderson's Inlet and then went by a bonus payment on the export of boat; from the east it went to Morwell butter, a similar bonus for the and then by rail, from the west it went establishment of dairy factories and by boat from Griffiths Point, and from also purchased the Melbourne the north it went to Drouin and then on Refrigerated Works at Newport in by rail (Committee of the South which to store dairy products awaiting Gippsland Pioneers Association shipment overseas. (Murphy, 1994:72) 1920:243) Later, the opening of the Creameries Great Southern Railway in 1892 Many of the farms in South Gippsland provided a significant boost as it were milking only a small number of became far easier to transport dairy cows and could not the purchase of produce directly to Melbourne. individual separators. Initially, Technical innovations during the creameries were established on a late nineteenth century cooperative basis to provide a central In the 1880s, two technical point at which milk could be developments (refrigeration and separated. Farmers delivered their centrifugal butter churns) occurred that milk by cart and would return home were of significance for the growth of with the skim milk. the dairying industry in South: Gippsland. The first successful Creameries were established at shipment of Victorian butter to the Mirboo North, Darlimurla and Mardan London market was made in 1880 and but carting milk to them was both was possible because of new inconvenient and time consuming. It refrigeration methods. Earlier attempts proved impractical to continue in this at export had been disastrous with the way and the practice was soon for milk butter arriving in a state only fit for sale to be separated on the farm and as axle grease. Improved refrigeration cream only sent to the factories. Within methods allowed South Gippsland ten years of coming on to the market, dairy farmers to sell their produce separators were commonplace on beyond local markets. dairy farms. (Murphy, 1994:73)

At about the same time as Once the cream had been separated refrigeration methods became the skimmed milk was not put to commercially viable, centrifugally waste; Most farms included pigs, operated separators were also which were fed the surplus and sold perfected. (Murphy, 1994:71) Prior to when fattened. Consequently this, milk had to be left to stand for piggeries became one of the standard between 36 and 48 hours before the farm buildings. cream could be skimmed off by hand. The cream was usually stored The separators could perform this temporarily in a cool-room near to the process without it being necessary to dairy before being made into butter or stand the milk. It was faster, cleaner cheese. and more hygienic. They were

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Early dairy cooperatives and share One of the more innovative and farming largest developments in the Shire in Depending on the size of the dairy the early 1900s was the 'share dairy farm, milking methods varied during system' set up by George Black's this period. Smaller farms still milked sons, Murray and Archibald, with eight by hand at the turn of the century, farms of over 100 cows each the white the larger farms were Tarwin River flats. experimenting with early forms of milking machines. While little of the The farms were linked with a three money paid by the government as mile long tramway track on which bonuses found its way to South trollies were drawn by horses to collect Gippsland, dairy factories were set up the dairy products. A factory was built in the district, either as cooperative or in the dunes near the Tarwin proprietary companies. By 1895 there Meadows homestead, that first were 38 cooperatives in Gippsland. produced casein, then butter and later cheese. An extensive piggery was One example was the Mirboo North also established and linked to the Dairy Company began as a tramway. The system worked on a cooperative in 1893, in a small production line model and resulted in wooden building adjoining the high production. township. In spite of troubled beginnings due to the amount of The Black share farming system broke capital required to install adequate down during World War 1 but the refrigeration and modern butter property later known as ‘Tarwin Park’ making machinery, the Mirboo North was managed successfully by Archie Dairy Company was a success. In Black's son Gregor until 1979 when it 1904 a new factory was built and was sold to Owen McMicking. (Charles equipped and the company joined a & Loney, 1989:67-77) This property is recently formed cooperative selling now owned by the Robert Robertson agency, the Gippsland Butter family, who are actively conserving Factories Cooperative Produce remaining elements of the dairy Company. system.

One of the major problems Proprietory companies experienced by this and other factories The operation of the dairy industry in South Gippsland was ensuring a changed in the early 1900s when regular supply of cream from the local agents who had previously confined farms. To overcome this the factories their role to selling farmers products undertook to cart the cream from their moved into manufacturing. Agents suppliers and so bullock or horse began takeovers of the small locally drawn wagons made daily rounds operated cooperatives and, by 1902, through the districts. (Godbold, ten proprietary butter factories were 1989:41) This led to the construction producing half of Victoria's butter. of cream stands at the entrance to (Godbold, 1989:41) many farms, which were once a One of the major companies to common sight throughout the Shire. operate in this way was the Melbourne Chilled Butter Company. This company acquired many of the butter factories in Gippsland and shifted control of the industry away from local dairy farmers. (Godbold, 1989:53)

As a consequence a number of new and imposing butter factories were

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built throughout the Shire in the early grass, then buy more cows to eat the part of the twentieth century. Usually grass. They were able to build on to constructed in brick using the latest their sheds and improve their fences. design and technology, they As the larger factories were expanded contrasted starkly with the simple and comparatively primitive early co- some of the smaller and more operative factory buildings. Most of marginal factories were closed. One casualty was the factory at Stony these were located in towns with railway stations to facilitate access to Creek, which was eventually the Melbourne markets (the factory at destroyed by fire in the 1930s. As we shall see, this process of Mirboo North was actually built adjacent to the railway). The two rationalization was to accelerate in the exceptions to this rule were the late twentieth century. factories established at Dumbalk and Supplying whole milk Kongwak. Innovations that assisted the development of whole milk supply Korumburra Butter Factory is one included the introduction of tankers to example, which was opened in August collect milk in bulk in lieu of cans. This 1900. It was soon replaced in 1909 by system was first introduced by Archie’s a new brick factory, which was fitted Creek and Mirboo North factories in with the most modern equipment and the late 1950s and was followed by it was a day of celebration for the Korumburra and Leongatha in the community. (Godbold, 1989:64-65) It 1960s. (Murphy 1988:391) went on to become one of the largest factories in the Southern Hemisphere Rationalisation in the late twentieth by the 1950s. At Leongatha a new century brick butter factory was erected in In the 1960s a process of 1905. rationalization began that would see the number of operating factories in The impact of the new butter factories the study reduced from nine at the cannot be underestimated. They beginning of the post war era to only contributed to the prosperity of the two in 2002, at Leongatha and farmers and the broader community Korumburra. where they were situated. The benefits to the farmer are well expressed in this As transport improved and more reply composed by a Boolarra State modern corporations took over the School student to the question: What older dairying cooperatives, two things has the butter factory meant to the happened. First, the milk supply area farmer? (as quoted in Eunson, that could be serviced by a single 178:184) factory increased greatly. Secondly, the smaller and less financially viable When the Boolarra Butter Factory was factories closed down. Hartnell built in 1900 it meant that the farmer (1974:157-159) demonstrates these had a half day extra to do clearing on changes graphically using the his farm. It also meant that the cream Poowong and surrounding district and carts would bring the supplies and the milk processing industry in West save the farmer many trips. They Gippsland during the periods from the bought home separators which were 1890s-1905 to the early 1970s. quicker than taking the milk to the creamery. Having more time they Fewer and fewer milk, butter and could make more money. They had cheese factories remained in South time to cut more palings and sell them Gippsland as time went by. However, and they had more time to improve many of the buildings remain, some their farms. They could sow more having been abandoned and gradually

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falling into disrepair and some, like the The complex was operated for only a Mirboo North Butter Factory, finding a few years before the Great Depression new life as a boutique beer brewery sent price levels of dairy produce to and restaurant. very low levels in 1929. Following the depression, the complex continued to The closure of factories had a operate at a reduced level until farm significant impact from which many labour became scarce at the outbreak towns never recovered. Development of World War 2. (Leongatha Historical ceased, shops and banks closed and Society 1989) houses were taken away. On the other hand, the increasingly centralised factories grew in size so did the towns where they were located to become 4.3 Horticulture the major centres within the Shire. Given the quality of the soils in much Knox’s Rockhill Farm of the Shire as evidence by the great A unique example of a forests it was perhaps inevitable that scientifically-based dairy farm known it would attract people involved in as Knox’s Rockhill Farm was horticulture. established by James Knox in 1922 at Nerrena near Leongatha. Knox was a In 1888, a nurserymen from near very industrious civil engineer who had Ballarat Francis Moss bought a interests in the quarrying and rock property on the Tarwin River near crushing industry at Leongatha as well Berry’s Creek to develop as an as a farm on Nerrena Road at extension of the vegetable and fruit Chalmers' Hill. He also had later tree nursery business he had interests in coal mining and is noted established at Mt Buninyong during for his role in the design of the outer 1853, which was known as concrete grandstands at the ‘Mossmount’. The new venture, Melbourne Cricket Ground and the originally known as ‘Mossmount-on- Kooyong Tennis Stadium. Tarwin’ was later renamed ‘Mossvale’ and raised fruit and The specialised design and ornamental trees, which were then construction of the buildings at Knox’s sent all over Victoria via the railway Rockhill Farm came from the Loudon station at Leongatha. Trees from the Machinery Company of Iowa in the Nursery were donated for the United States. Knox acted as their Leongatha Avenue of Honour in agent and a working model of the 1918 and many fine ornamental concrete block barns and silos was trees in windbreaks, driveway built at Rockhill Farm to encourage avenues and gardens in the Shire demand for this type of block reputedly came from the Nursery. construction, which utilised Knox's high quality bluestone aggregate. The property was sold in 1931 However, it was not only the building following Moss's death in 1916. The design and construction that was riverside picnic ground on the being promoted, it was also an property was purchased by the efficient system of milk and pork Shires of Mirboo and Woorayl in production that was placed on display. 1946, creating a ten acre reserve, which contained many fine trees planted by one of the foremen at the Nursery during the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Four trees in the Park (and one on the former Nursery site on the hill

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behind) are listed by the National Trust on the Significant Trees Register. (Ellis 1995 & Lyndon 1994)

Another smaller nursery was established nearby at Wooreen.

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HERITAGE Dairying Butter factories are the most visible record of the expansion of the dairy The previous chapter has described industry in the Shire. Some, such as many of the houses associated with the complexes at Kongwak and the early graziers and farmers. This Leongatha include a series of section will therefore focus upon non- buildings that demonstrate the historic residential buildings associated with development of the factory over time. this theme. As we have seen, the coming of butter factories made farms more prosperous Heritage places identified by the Study and allowed farmers to erect more that illustrate the theme of Working the substantial residences. Some of these Land include: have been described in the previous Grazing chapter. Farm buildings associated with Dairying is also indirectly grazing such as shearing sheds and demonstrated by the development of dairies provide an important record of the commercial centres of townships, the historical development of a farm which was closely related to the property and the types of rural establishment and expansion of Butter activities that were carried out. Such Factories. For example, the expansion buildings are now comparatively rare of the Leongatha factory in the 1930s within the Shire and provide an was probably an influence upon the important historical insight into early major expansion of the commercial farming management and operation. area that occurred during that same Some demonstrate early construction time. techniques of great interest, and often reflect skills specifically associated ƒ The former Butter & Cheese Co- with a region or particular migrant operative Factories at Foster, group (such as the Danish settlers of Kongwak, Korumburra, Leongatha, Poowong) and so contribute to the Mirboo North, and Poowong. unique character of each district. ƒ The former Butter Factory Co- Perhaps the most notable farm operative stores at Kongwak, complex to survive in the Shire is at Dumbalk and Foster. ‘Dorfstedt’ near Poowong, which ƒ Knox’s Rockhill Farm near includes an early barn and dairy Leongatha. constructed using traditional Danish Horticulture techniques. There are also early ƒ Mossvale Park on the Tarwin River shearing sheds at 95 Forresters Lane, near Berry Creek, between Berry’s Creek, ‘Wolonga’ near Leongatha and Mirboo North. Kongwak, and at the former Inglis farm at Dumbalk East.

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58 South Gippsland Heritage Study 2004

Transport & Communications

INTRODUCTION

Transport has been a major theme in the history of the Shire from an early date and illustrates how various forms of transport were used to overcome its isolation from Melbourne and Gippsland, as well as the internal isolation between the diverse and widely scattered village townships throughout the Shire. As we shall see, the continuing economic development and the pattern of early settlement of the Shire were strongly influenced by the early transport routes, which often determined whether settlements declined or prospered. In particular the coming of the railways in the latter part of the nineteenth century had a profound and lasting impact upon the pattern of settlement in the Shire. The early transport routes over land followed tracks laid down by early explorers and stock routes, which in turn sometimes followed pathways used by the indigenous inhabitants. These were often in the form of desire lines that followed the most direct or practical path across the landscape. The hilly terrain of the Shire often foiled the attempts of the government survey to impose a grid layout upon the landscape, with many roads instead following the natural contours of landscape. This chapter incorporates the following Australian Historic Themes: ƒ Developing local regional and national economies: Establishing communications, Moving goods and people

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HISTORY and along the Kilcunda coast and on through a narrow section of higher land between the mangrove swamps 5.1 Early tracks of Western Port and the south edge of Kooweerup Swamp.

During the early years of European It was not until 1844 that the Robinson settlement, several key overland party were officially instructed to find a tracks were established through suitable land route along the coast to different parts of South Gippsland. Port Albert from Melbourne (refer to Initially established primarily as cattle Section 2.4). They took a bullock dray routes, pack tracks or Wattle bark and eight bullocks, finding the journey sledge tracks (Committee of the South from Melbourne to Western Port not Gippsland Pioneers Association, difficult and the track "well formed". As 1920:77), these tracks became they got closer to the Tarwin River, important travel routes for other types however, the thick tea tree scrub of travel and principal communication hampered their journey and they had links and life lines between to lay down logs in corduroy fashion settlements and rural properties in the on either side of the river in order to hinterlands. The tracks often served cross it with the dray. The road from as access routes for the land Jamieson's Station at Western Port to surveyors, providing initial base lines the Tarwin River was judged to be for these surveys and the subsequent impassable in winter. Although stock purchase of blocks by selectors. losses in the river crossing were Portions of some of these tracks minimal for this party, reports of remain as part of modern day road subsequent parties who crossed alignments, still carrying their original closer to the mouth of the Tarwin River names, even though it is now difficult lost a great number of cattle and to establish whether or not the roads calves to sharks. By the end of 1844, remain exactly on the original track the southern route to Port Albert from alignments. Melbourne "was in fairly regular use by those able to overcome its hazard," Routes between Port Albert and Melbourne (Charles & Loney, 1989:23-24). The establishment of overland tracks By February-March of 1845, for travel through South Gippsland Superintendent La Trobe, Captain was a major task in the early years of Dana and Crown Commissioner European settlement. As the Brodribb Powlett had inspected the southern party found immediately after the road to Port Albert, using a punt to settlement of Port Albert by the cross the Tarwin River. As cattle runs Gippsland Company during 1841, the in the southern part of the Shire were establishment of passable routes to expanded, the coastal route to Port Melbourne would not be an easy task Albert gradually improved. given the difficulty of getting through dense vegetation, swampy terrain and The establishment of the coastal stock deep tidal rivers. They established two route was an extremely important routes to Melbourne from Port Albert. achievement at the time. Since the One route proceeded northward from northern route from Melbourne to Sale Port Albert to the La Trobe Valley and proved too difficult to establish in the then eastward through the Warragul beginning, all livestock supplies and area and around the north edge of sales associated with McMillans runs Kooweerup Swamp. The other route and others of Central and East was along the coast through the Cape Gippsland were made from New South Liptrap area, across the Tarwin River Wales via Omeo. The coastal route

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from Melbourne to Port Albert finally the 1860s, many of the miners and allowed the Melbourne livestock other settlers of those areas were markets to deal with the Central and attracted to the newly-opened East Gippsland station owners, Gippsland area. This was facilitated to boosting the Melbourne area some extent by the opening up of new economy. tracks by surveyors such as G.T. McDonald in 1862, Turner in 1873 and McDonald's Track Whitelaw in 1876. The Stockyard McDonald's Track was the first Creek gold rush also attracted more significant track cut initially as a stock prospectors and settlers, leading to route through the northern part of the the cutting of Liddiard's Track (or Shire, along the Strzelecki Range by Liddiard-Dodd's Track) in 1870. These GT McDonald during 1861-62. developments led to the clearing and However, due to it's ridgeline location, settlement of much of the area south this track was not successful as a of the Strzelecki Range in the Tarwin stock roeute aand was not readily River catchment and on the coastal used again until the time of land plain between Foster and Port Albert. selection during the mid-1870s. However, the densely forested areas McDonald's Track ran easterly and along the Strzelecki Range in the northeasterly from Tobin Yallock (now northern portion of the Shire were not known as Lang Lang) to Morwell over intensively settled until the latter part a distance of approximately seventy of the 1870s. (Murphy 1988:14) miles. Most of the route went through McDonald's Track was largely unused dense forest, following the ridgetops for a period of twelve years after first and spurs, McDonald clearing a seven being cleared in 1862, due to the lack foot swath along the line. Supplies of permanent water for its use as a were packed over sixty miles from stock route to Sale. (Committee of the Cranbourne during part of the South Gippsland Pioneers Association establishment. 1920:77-78) This was due to a Although McDonald's Track ran combination of factors, including through very wet country, there were difficulties in clearing the required no permanent watering holes along it. portion of a selection in such densely This resulted in it not being used as a vegetated and steep hill country, cattle route and it not being used very delays in the completion of the Central much by anyone until the selectors Gippsland Railway until 1877, a and land surveyors descended on the drought that lasted most of the area some twelve to thirteen years decade, and land that was suitable to later. The track was entirely overgrown dairy farming rather than cropping by that time and had to be re-cleared while the local market was already (Committee of the South Gippsland over-supplied with butter. (Eunson Pioneers Association, 1920:77-78). 1978:4) Tracks leading to and from In 1872, William Liddiard surveyed the Stockyard Creek - Liddiard's, track named after him from Moe to Whitelaw's and Turton's Tracks Foster in 1871. This track connected The discovery of gold at Stockyard the main Gippsland coach road near Creek led to the cutting of several Moe to the settlements of Delburn, tracks including Liddiards Track, Darlimurla, Mirboo North and Foster. Turtons Track, Amey's Track and Liddiard's Track was also referred to Whitelaw's Track, by different as Liddiard-Dodd's Track (Reichl's surveyors during the 1870s. Map of South Gippsland - 1870 as in Following the decline of surface gold Murphy, 1988:15). mining near Ballarat and Bendigo in

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During 1872, a geodetic surveyor included Amey's Track from Foster to named Turton discovered gold specks Turton's Track, the Jeetho West track in the creek while camped with a from Grantville at Western Port to survey party along Liddiard's Track Whitelaw's Track west of Korumburra eight miles north of Foster. For a short and the Drouin to Poowong track, period of time Liddiard's Track became which later became a coach road. busy accessways used by prospectors and storekeepers who delivered packed flour, meat and other goods by 5.2 The evolution to coach pack-horse to the gold mining camps and wagon roads of Turton's Creek (Collett, 1994:89).

One outcome of Liddiard's Track was Morgan (1997:85) identifies four that it revealed the rich red soils of the stages of the evolution of early tracks Mirboo area to gold miners and into coach roads: travelers, many of whom returned to the area as selectors in order to farm In forested country like Gippsland, the land. roads developed in four stages. First a bridal path (suitable for a horse and The surveyor Whitelaw cut another rider finding their way through the track from the Stockyard Creek area to bush), then a pack track (wider so a join up with McDonald's Track in the pack horse could get through), then a Nyora area during 1873 (Murphy, bullock track (much wider so a herd of 1988:14 indicates that the date was bullocks could pass), and finally a 1876). The track crossed the plains coach road (narrower than a bullock from Stockyard Creek in a track, but with a firm surface so that northwesterly direction until it reached coaches would not get bogged). Coal Creek. It then climbed through the valley to Mine Road and This evolution in track development proceeded northwest of the present was often experienced in reverse as site of Korumburra township. Steep travelers ventured into South terrain and lack of supplies forced Gippsland from Melbourne during the McDonald's survey party to cease their years leading up to and during track clearing somewhere south of selection in the 1870s and 1880s. West Poowong (White, 1988:286- A typical trip from Melbourne to the 287). Poowong District up until the late Sometime after 1873 a track from Port 1870s involved a three hour Cobb & Albert to Turtons Creek was surveyed. Co coach ride from Bourke Street in Part of this track is still known today as Melbourne to Dandenong, followed by Turtons Track (McMaster, 1996:15). a two hour waggonette ride to Cranbourne, where lunch was eaten, Turner's Track and then a twenty-one mile walk to A mining surveyor named Turner Jimmy Bakers house one mile past opened a track between Anderson Tobin Yallock (Lang Lang), where they Inlet and Korumburra during 1873, would be accommodated for the night. after black coal was discovered in the From the Bakers house, travelers Korumburra area (Murphy, 1988:14). would proceed through the 'Sandy Other tracks Rises' and the Cherry Tree Rises, then Various other tracks were also up 'Tinpot Hill', where they would often developed between main coach roads spend their second night camped out. and rural settlements or between Soon after this the travelers would settlements and outlying mining or enter the scrub through the narrow rural selection areas. Some of these tunnel, which remained of McDonald's Track (Hartnell, 1974:26-27).

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The principal tracks were gradually that the wheels of drays had to be improved throughout Gippsland and removed. There were bridges at more were added through the Agnes River, Muddy Creek, the requirements for access to various Franklin River, Deep Creek and selections and to new townships as Bennison Creek, but the roads at they became established. Main coach these places were ' a terror, even to roads to and from Melbourne were first Gippsland horsemen'. The bridge at established via Cranbourne to the Franklin River was only a tree trunk fringes of Western Port (Tobin Yallock with 4 foot slabs nailed on it, without a and Grantville) and via Drouin and handrail, under water in floods and Warragul to the La Trobe Valley. very slippery. In the winter of 1873 the mailman fell from the Franklin bridge, The first coach road to Poowong from ‘both horse and rider rolling over in the Tobin Yallock was opened in 1878. By creek'...." 1879, the track from Drouin to Poowong was upgraded to allow a In the streets of Foster wheeled traffic three-day per week mail coach service was frequently bogged down and to be established (Hartnell, 1974:74). pedestrians still crossed the worst Other coach roads were established parts on planks, and even in the better around the South Gippsland Shire. parts gumboots were necessary. The streets were a constant reminder to The well known firm Cobb & Co. was inhabitants that they were neglected established by American immigrants to by the Shire Council. In 1873 the Australia during the 1850s which Council received a report on Bridge played a major transportation role Street, which had holes 'three feet throughout the nation, including South deep', and the bridge itself in a Gippsland beginning in the 1870s. 'disgracefully dangerous state'. One of the original founders of Cobb & Co., J.M. Peck, left the firm in 1862 The Shire (of Alberton) covered an and started in the stock and station area of 2147 square miles and the business. (Murphy, 1988:83). He Shire Council was obliged to maintain subsequently established his own firm all streets, roads, bridges and culverts. in the 1890s and opened a branch in Metal roads were extremely expensive Leongatha. to make properly since 'every cartload of metal thrown on the chocolate soil Road conditions throughout the area in that region would disappear almost during the 1870s were atrocious, as is as rapidly as if it were thrown in the described in almost every history sea' Labour was scarce and written on the area. Collett (1994:109- expensive, there was a shortage of 111) describes the road and travel stone and sand, and bridges and conditions in the Welshpool to Foster culverts were costly because they had areas: to be built to withstand wet earth and In the West Riding of the Shire of winter flooding.....There was simply Alberton roads were in poor condition, not enough money for so many roads. where they existed at all. The 'road' to Murphy (1988:37-38) also describes Foster via Welshpool, Agnes and the difficult conditions experienced on Muddy Creek was no more than the the track leading past the Leongatha cleared track for the telegraph line, Cemetery to Inverloch, where seven finished in February 1872, which kept miles of corduroy roadway was laid to close to the shore and crossed low enable bullock teams to get through and swampy ground. As with all with their loads. A large mud hole narrow tracks in South Gippsland, for usually formed at each end of the the greater part of the year it remained corduroy roads, leading to more a quagmire, often with mud so deep

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maintenance problems (Committee of to fend for themselves in the the South Gippsland Pioneers improvement of their own roads. Association, 1920:82). Where conditions did not permit the passage Priestly (1984:170) notes that: of wheeled vehicles, sledges were Road construction accelerated after used as a reliable and cheap 1918 as road traffic was undergoing its alternative. spectacular motorization. By 1924, there were nearly ninety thousand motor cars, lorries and cycles 5.3 Twentieth century road registered in Victoria, although that improvements was still less than half the estimated number of road vehicles pulled by horses. Just four years later, horse Coverdale (Committee of the South and motor vehicle numbers were Gippsland Pioneers Association, balanced, and thereafter the fast- 1920:77-92) recalled the evolution of breeding petrol engine took road construction up to the 1920s. precedence. Many of the original tracks were surveyed in along the straight lines of With the advent of the automobile, the property boundaries and as a result need for smoother and safer surfaces frequently went straight up and down led to vast improvements in the main hillsides at grades of up to 1 in 7 or roads and the evolution to the modern through creek beds. Such roads were highways of today. Major considered to be Government folly and improvements in engineering know settlers had to form an entirely new how and construction materials have system of roads for themselves. also led to the replacement of many of the earlier timber bridges and culverts Better roads that contoured around the with concrete and steel structures. hillsides at grades approaching 1 in 28 were eventually established, but it was In the Shire of Korumburra, several a long, slow process. In some areas, small one-span bridges were built split timber slabs fastened onto using the newly developed reinforced longitudinal bed logs replaced concrete method of construction corduroy. These lasted for years when development developed by the Monier they were well made. In other areas Concrete Co. of which John Monash attempts were made to harden the was one of the chief engineers. One road surfaces by using burnt his local employees, John Brydon later sedimentary rock, burnt clay or blue formed his own company and metal (crushed basalt rock). constructed four new bridges on the Bena-Poowong Road in 1914. However, little progress was made by the local councils until the Country By the end of 1924, a new State Roads Board was established in 1913 Highways and Vehicles Act gave the for the purpose of improving the CRB power to construct and maintain existing main roads and to construct state highways and main roads, and to new main roads where necessary. build ‘developmental’ roads, which would provide access to railway Initial government funding of the stations or the main roads leading to Board's operations was in part them. allocated as a grant to the municipalities with the balance The formation of the CRB and the repayable over some 31 years. A 1924 Act consequently led to great deal was accomplished by the improvements to the road network in CRB, but at least until after World War the Shire. In 1932, the CRB assumed I, many of the backcountry settlers had

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responsibility for the main road branch lines were also established in through the Shire from Melbourne and the Korumburra, Outtrim and renamed it the South Gippsland Jumbunna areas during the period Highway when it was proclaimed as a from the 1870s through the 1940s for State Highway under the 1924 Act. coal mining purposes. (Anderson, 1994:59-60) Meanwhile a few short narrow and The increased road construction led to broad gauge tramways, using horses a demand for materials. During 1916, or steam engines, were also James Knox founded a quarrying firm established in the Welshpool and near Leongatha, purchasing the South Toora areas and throughout the Gippsland Quarries and operating a Hoddle Ranges and the Strzelecki quarry and crushing plant for the sale Range for logging and milling of bluestone screenings at the Ditchley purposes. Estate on Simon's Lane (Leongatha The development of railways and Historical Society, 1989:1). The bluestone was sold to the Victorian tramways was primarily in response to Railways and to road contractors in the transport needs of the coal mines and the timber mills of South the Melbourne area. He opened another high quality bluestone deposit Gippsland, but were also urgently at Chalmer's Hill near Leongatha requested by local selectors and town residents of the region as the most during the early 1920s. His firm was the largest quarrymaster in Victoria for reliable form of transport available a period of time, employing up to forty during times when the road systems were woefully inadequate and men. undependable. The railways also provided a productive and financially beneficial use for the great quantities 5.4 Railways and Tramways of timber that was being felled through selectors land clearing operations in Introduction the late 1800's. Timber was used to Railways and tramways became the burn in the steam engines, for the most important form of transport in formation of sleepers, for bridge South Gippsland during the late construction and for railway stations. nineteenth and early twentieth Other aspects of railway construction centuries and had a profound and and transport were a direct economic lasting impact upon the pattern of and employment stimulus to the South settlement in the Shire. Gippsland community.

As shown in Table 2, the railways Morwell-Mirboo Railway operated from the late 1870s through The first railway into the Shire was the the early 1990s when the South branch line from Morwell to Baromi Gippsland railway line (formerly known during 1883-84. The only suitable site as the Great Southern Railway) was for a railway station was found about a closed by the Victorian Government. mile and a half west of the beginnings This line has since re-opened under of the first settlement at Baromi. The lease by the South Gippsland Tourist new site was called the 'Terminus' and Railway Association. Most of the major townships lots were surveyed and sold rail routes were constructed by the in 1884 when the railway station was early 1890s, but a number of other named North (and later Mirboo North) short lines were established during the (Murphy, 1994:41). Meanwhile Baromi period from 1905 through the early declined and has all but disappeared. 1920s. Various railway sidings and

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Table 2 – South Gippsland railways & tramways construction details

Line Constructed Year closed Details

Central Gippsland 1877-1879 Not 205km; Richmond to South railway applicable Yarra 1859, Sale to Dandenong 1877, Dandenong to South Yarra 1879

Morwell to Mirboo 1884-86 1974 32km railway

South Eastern or 1888-92 1992 219km; Kooweerup to Great Southern Korumburra 1888, railway Korumburra to Toora 1891, Toora to Port Albert 1892

Port Franklin to 1889 Late 1930s 2km private broad gauge. Bennison tramway Used by local fishermen for carriage of goods and passengers.

Korumburra to 1894 1953 6km. Lines also ran from Jumbunna railway Korumburra to coal mines at Coal Creek and Silkstone.

Jumbunna to Outtrim 1896 1951 4km railway

Port Welshpool to Pre-1900 1941 5km. Narrow gauge (2’ 6”) Hedley tramway horse-drawn tramway.

Nyora to Wonthaggi 1910 1977 47km railway

Kooweerup to 1922 Progressively 49km. Strzelecki railway from 1930- 1959

Source: Land Conservation Council, Report on the South Gippsland Area 2, Appendix 2A October 1980 (with additions and corrections)

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Until the construction of the Great station between Nyora and Loch to Southern railway seven years later the service the Poowong District were railway at Mirboo North was the thwarted when the private easiest route for settlers coming to the development of Loch township Shire apart from coming by sea and included provision for a railway station led to the early settlement of the upper (White, 1988:271). reaches of the Tarwin valley. As we shall see, Korumburra grew Great Southern Railway significantly due to the discovery of The construction of the Great black coal and a grand brick station Southern Railway (also known as the complex was constructed there in South Eastern Railway) was 1907. Leongatha also prospered due authorized by an Act of Parliament in to the high quality red basalt soils in 1884 that became notorious as the the area, its location at the junction of ‘Octopus Act’. Murphy (1988:36-37) the railway and the track between describes in some detail the great Mirboo North and Anderson's Inlet and number of men and the extensive the establishment of a Labour Colony amount of supplies and effort that for unemployed persons during 1893 – went into the construction of the Great After much lobbying by townsfolk a Southern Railway. Up to 700 bullocks brick station complex (though and 200 horses were used. A fleet of somewhat less impressive than at steamers brought construction Korumburra) was erected by 1910. materials to Inverloch, where it was Townships associated with other then hauled by bullock wagon to the stations surveyed at Kardella, Ruby, Leongatha and Koonwarra section of Koonwarra, and Bongurra (Tarwin) the line. were less successful, Bongurra never really materialising at all. The Leongatha to Port Albert section of the railway was built in two sections Branch lines by different contractors, each During 1891 the Victorian Parliament commencing at Toora, largely enacted legislation to construct branch because they could bring heavy lines from Korumburra to Coal Creek, materials, equipment and locomotives Strzelecki and Jumbunna coal mines. to that area by sea, using a pier that The Strzelecki line was extended to existed at Toora and building a new the Black Diamond (Austral) mine wharf at Port Franklin. (Collett, during 1895 (White, 1988:271). The 1994:159). Outtrim-Jumbunna Railway was built in 1895-96 as a result of lobbying of The opening of the Great Southern the then Minister of Mines by the Railway led to the start of " a series of directors of the Outtrim Coal Mine and townships spread out at roughly five through their contribution of land for mile intervals along the route'' the track and their guarantee of the (Murphy, 1988:109). Six railway £20,000 required to build the line. stations were surveyed between Korumburra and Stony Creek. As at The last railway to be developed in the Mirboo North some towns were moved Shire was the Strzelecki Railway, to suit the location of the new line; which was completed during 1922. Leongatha moved to its present site Lobbying for the railway's construction from the originally surveyed location was successful after a number of local near Koorooman where a store and railway development leagues in the post office had been established. northern part of the Shire had Meanwhile some speculators competed unsuccessfully for lines to surveyed their own towns, which were be built in their local areas. Banding provided with a station. Plans for a together for the common purpose of

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opening up an area of rich agricultural 5.5 Travelling by sea land that was not well accessed by roads, the various leagues combined Introduction their resources during 1911 and called As we have seen the early exploration for a railway to be built through of the area by early sailing vessels, Poowong East, Strzelecki and on to commercial shipping and maritime Mirboo North. An Act to build the line commerce and transport played a from Kooweerup to McDonalds Track significant role in its discovery and was passed in 1914, but World War development and until the coming of One delayed construction until 1919. the railways, the ports remained the By this time, automobiles were easier point of access into the Shire. beginning to offer significant Piers and wharves at Port Welshpool, competition with the railways and Toora, Port Franklin, Foster Landing, roads were being improved. As a Millers Landing, Walkerville and result, sections of this railway line Anderson's Inlet have been were progressively closed from 1930 instrumental facilities at various times. through 1959, (White, 1988:272). This was particularly true during the Tramways period from the 1840s and 1850s The completion of the Great Southern through the 1910s and 1920s when Railway provided a boost to the fishing overland transport was slow and industry of the Port Welshpool and difficult. Port Franklin areas, allowing fresh fish As a regional port, Port Albert (which to be sent to Melbourne markets daily. is outside the Shire) also had a strong From Port Welshpool the fish was first influence on the Shire's development, transported by horse-drawn wagons to the Central Gippsland Region and the Welshpool Railway Station located transport movements in both areas three miles to the north. A tramline during the early years prior to the was laid in 1904 and a horsedrawn advent of good roads and railways. tram was then used to carry fish to the Port Welshpool railway station. This tram was also Loney (1990) chronicles many of the used to ferry people from the port to ships and maritime activities that have Welshpool township for work and been associated with Port Welshpool. social events (Peterson, 1978:11-12). That port has served as a safe haven, During the same period, Masons tucked away from the weather of Bass Timber Tramway had been Strait in Corner Inlet. It served as a established to transport fish from the major port for sail traders and small port to Mason's timber mill at the Nine steam ships from the mid-1850s Mile Creek and timber from the mill to through the turn of the last century. the port. These trams apparently The establishment of off-shore oil rigs remained in operation until the end of in Bass Strait during recent years has 1940 and the tracks were later re-invigorated the port as a transport removed during 1953-54 (Loney, centre for oil company activities as 1990:22-23). well as a temporary base for the fast At Port Franklin, the tramway ferry service to Tasmania. constructed by Andrew O’Keefe during the construction of the Great Southern Railway was put to good use by fishermen of that port to transport their catch to the railway station at Bennison.

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Port Welshpool's first jetty, built in judgements, Stockyard Creek was 1856, was destroyed by fire in the renamed Foster by popular demand. 1880s and was rebuilt in its existing Miller's Landing location as the Fishermen's Jetty. The Miller's Landing was a jetty built to off- export of timber from Mason's Mill to load supplies and passengers brought Europe during the 1890s was highly in by boat for Darby River. A horse dependent on the original jetty at Port and wagon was used to continue on to Welshpool for commercial success. Darby River. It was named after Alf This jetty carried a horse tramway for Miller, a ranger at Barrys Hill from many years. The need for deep water 1925 to 1940. (Crawford, pers. comm., loading facilities led to the construction 1998). Remnants of this landing of the Long Jetty in 1937. The Long remain today. Jetty remains as one of the most unique jetties in Victoria, designed Waratah Bay and the Walkerville with a significant curve and has been Jetty used for both commercial and defence Waratah Bay is named after the iron purposes over the years. During the paddle steamer Waratah that took early 1960s it was used by the first shelter in the bay during 1854. The ships exploring for oil and gas in Bass name was changed from the original Strait before the deep water port at Patterson Bay name given the Barry Point was constructed. embayment by the French navigator Baudin in 1803. The quarrying of Loney (1990) documents a long list of limestone led to the establishment of a ships, steamers and famous ship small village also called Waratah (later wrecks that were associated with Port renamed Walkerville) and the building Welshpool and the Corner Inlet area. of a long jetty with a tramway on it to Offshore islets, sand bars and reefs enable the lime to be loaded on ships can make the waters near Port for delivery to Melbourne during the Welshpool hazardous. Some of the 1870s. This jetty was very long and well known wrecks and disasters of had a crook in it due to the difficulty the area include the Earl of Windsor experienced in driving piles into the (1863), the Albert Victor (1889) and hard reef rock located off-shore. Small the Western Spruce (1969). steamers including SS Blackboy and Foster Landing Gazelle serviced this industrial port During the 1870s many miners and village, dropping off goods and fuel for others wishing to go to Stockyard the lime kilns, possibly going on to Creek would take a small paddle Lakes Entrance and Bairnsdale to pick steamer (the Tarra was one) from up maize or sugar, and then returning either Port Albert or Port Welshpool to to Walkerville on their way back to the estuary of Stockyard Creek, Melbourne, loading up to 500 bags of travelling upstream until they reached lime (Charles & Loney, 1990:47-48). the Landing, a timber wharf built on Port of Inverloch on Anderson Inlet the creek bank. This landing was not and Wharves on the Tarwin River only a centre of transport for the Transport and communications in the Foster area at that time, but also was Lower Tarwin area were largely the location where the gold warden influenced by sea access to the pier at and magistrate William H. Foster held Inverloch and the wharves at Maher's court for a number of claim jumping Landing and Tarwin Lower due to poor disputes and remarked that it was roads and dense vegetation. The area absurd to refer to the place as around Anderson Inlet was surveyed Stockyard Creek as the claims could and settled during the 1840s and a not be in the creek (Collett, 1994:68- number of schooners called regularly 69). Once he had made some wise at the port. The ketch Ripple became

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the regular contact with the outside 5.6 Postal, telegraph and world for the local community. telephone networks Cargoes of goods and merchandise would be dropped off and farm Postal Networks and Post Offices produce, timber and other items would Delivery of letters and other mail was be loaded for sale in Melbourne. in the beginning dependent on what Regular seaport services continued on could be sent via ship to the nearest into the late 1920s and 1930s, with the seaport, transferred overland along steamships SS Despatch, SS bridal or pack tracks by a horseman. Wyrallah, SS Moonah, SS Ellen and Post offices in rural districts were often the SS Manawatu providing services nothing more than "a large hole in a (Murphy, 1988:127-128; Charles & hollow tree where any mail for the Loney, 1989:59-63). nearby settlers was left high and dry The Inverloch jetty proved to be until such time as it was collected,". instrumental when the Wonthaggi (Murphy 1988:34) Although the Lower coalfield came into operation in 1909. Tarwin and Anderson Inlet areas were A shortage of black coal in Victoria settled during the 1840s and 1850s, resulted in weekly visits by steamers no official post office existed at from Melbourne to load coal that had Anderson Inlet until 1883. been carted to the jetty by bullock The Koorooman Post Office was wagon and steam traction engine. This officially proclaimed in 1887 at Horn's activity continued until the railway Roadside Inn one mile north of the between Wonthaggi and Nyora was planned railway station. Mail from completed in February of 1910 Anderson Inlet would be carried in (Murphy, 1988:128). relay fashion by different pack horse Lighthouses riders to the Post Office at Due to the loss of many sea-going Koorooman. On-going mail was then vessels (including the schooner delivered to Mirboo North by a Mr Industry, the Truganini and the Blackmore, who frequently had trouble German passenger ship Schornberg) fording the Tarwin River to get there. and increasing shipping traffic, a (Murphy, 1988:48) The Koorooman lighthouse was built on the southeast Post Office served the District for four point of Wilsons Promontory during years until the Leongatha Post Office 1859. An innovative multiple kerosene was opened in 1891, when mail began light-reflective lamp that was visible to be received by rail. from 25 nautical miles away was In the Poowong District, regular postal installed. (Collett, 1994:52) services did not exist until 1878. In the early twentieth century, the Irregular collection of mail forwarded to newly formed Commonwealth Cranbourne or Tobin Yallock by a assumed responsibility for lighthouses, passing selector who would then leave and a new lighthouse at Cape Liptrap letters for others at James Scott's was built in 1913, becoming the house. After a Post Office had been second automatic light established by established in Poowong in 1878 a the Commonwealth Government in weekly horseback mail service from Australia. It is visible for twenty-seven Tobin Yallock commenced. This was miles out to sea and was replaced in later followed by a three-day per week the 1950s. (Charles & Loney, coach mail and passenger service that 1994:109) was highly dependent on the weather and road conditions. An alternative coach mail service from Drouin was started when the Drouin-Poowong coach road was opened. By 1890 a

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contract for a six-day per week mail public outcry and funds to establish delivery from Nyora to the Poowong what was then the most modern Post Office was awarded, marking the communication link. Installation first importance of a westerly route for took place in the township areas, but Poowong instead of the old northern was later extended to farms. (Sparkes, route from Drouin. (Hartnell, 1974:75) 1997).

Mail nights were events, which were looked forward to with eager anticipation in the isolated and news 5.7 Newspapers starved district, particularly since The Gippsland Independent also arrived Newspapers have been extremely then. This is conveyed by Hartnell important forms of communication in (1974:74) in a quote from a South Gippsland over the years, correspondent to the Independent on particularly the local newspapers that 20 May 1880: were established in almost every medium to large township. Your excellent journal, being our only means of knowing what is going on in In the former Shire of Korumburra our country is, on mail nights, greedily alone, there were at least seven seized upon and the contents thereof noteworthy newspapers, including The devoured with avidity. Great Southern Advocate (1889 to 1959) and The Korumburra When the railways were established, Independent, The Southern Mail (1890 some postal services were to 1909), The Korumburra Times incorporated with the railway stations. (1892 to 1973), The Korumburra Free After Federation in 1901 responsibility Press (1895 to 1896), The Outtrim was assumed by the Commonwealth, News (1897 to 1909), The Loch, which implemented a building Poowong and Bass Valley Express program. During the early twentieth and the Loch and Bass Valley century, several new post offices were Advertiser (1931 to 1932), The South erected in South Gippsland as part of Gippsland Sentinel-Times (1973 to this program such as the brick Present). Korumburra Post Office built at the corner of Bridge Road and Mine Road In Mirboo North, the Mirboo Herald in 1904 and its timber counterpart was published from 1887 to 1894 and constructed at Leongatha in 1907. The The Gippslander and Mirboo Times in Chief Architect of the Eastern District 1897. A new office in Ridgway was of the Public Works Department, JB erected in 1910 for the Times, which Cohen, designed these buildings in a was renamed simply as the Mirboo distinctive Queen Anne style. Times in 1957. In 1997 it became a community owned and operated Telegraph and telephone networks newspaper called The Mirboo North Telegraph services were set up during Times. the 1870s and 1880s, with terminals often housed at the Post Office or One newspaper that has operated local General Store and then later at continuously for over 100 years is the some of the railway stations. Great Southern Star, now simply The Star. Its offices in McCartin Street, Telephone services were extended Leongatha were constructed using from Korumburra to Leongatha in concrete blocks manufactured at 1913. (Murphy, 1988:171) Like the Knox’s Quarry and are still in use railways, telephone leagues were today. often established in local areas to lobby the government and raise the

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HERITAGE

Examples of heritage places that illustrate the theme of Transport and Communications include: Twentieth century road improvements ƒ Early reinforced concrete bridges at Ruby, Bena, and Outtrim. ƒ Knox’s quarry at Chalmer’s hill near Leongatha, and the former Manager’s residence on Simon’s Lane near the site of the railway siding used to load gravel. Railways and tramways ƒ Buildings and infrastructure associated with the railways and tramways in the area. This includes the extant station complexes, bridges, and landscape features such as cuttings and embankments (in cases of closed lines these features sometimes provide the only evidence of the former railway) Travelling by sea ƒ The piers at Port Welshpool and Port Franklin. Postal, telegraph and telephone networks ƒ The Post Office at Foster is the oldest post office in the Shire. It is now part of the South Gippsland Heritage Society Museum. ƒ Post offices constructed by the Commonwealth in the first decades of the twentieth century are still exant at Korumburra, Leongatha, Loch, Mirboo North, and Toora and all with the exception of Korumburra are still in use. ƒ The route of the former telegraph line can still be interpreted by the name of roads such as Telegraph Road, and the width of part of the Main Street in Foster. Newspapers ƒ The early offices of the ‘Star’ in McCartin Street, Leongatha, and the ‘Gippslander & Mirboo Times in Ridgway, Mirboo North.

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Economic Development

INTRODUCTION This chapter incorporates the following Australian Historic Themes: As we have seen, the rural industries of ƒ Developing regional, and national the Shire have been of primary economies; Utilising natural importance in its economic resources, Altering the environment; development, particularly up until the Catering for tourists. middle of the twentieth century. This chapter describes the other industries that were important in the formation of the Shire, and have contributed to its development at key times in its history. As we shall see, while the other early industries in South Gippsland including sealing, whaling and bark stripping industries were important to the Australian and world economies for a limited time, they had little lasting impact on the development of a local economy in South Gippsland. Timber milling, gold and coal mining and fishing have each, at various times, been suggested as the future of South Gippsland. Coal and gold mining in particular had brief, yet spectacular impacts upon settlement and were largely responsible for the establishment of the two key towns of Foster and Korumburra. While their In addition, tourism too has played an increasingly important role the economic development of the Shire, particularly since the Second World War although it commenced as early as the 1900s.

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HISTORY Timber cutting, sawmilling and tree plantations Timber milling was not always 6.1 Utilising natural considered as a commercial venture in resources South Gippsland in spite of the huge forests. This was in part due to the very poor transport through the area Sealing, whaling and Wattle bark and the difficulty of shifting milled stripping timber to the Melbourne or Sydney The sealing, whaling and wattle bark markets. stripping industries provided the first exports for the Australian economy As we have seen, clearing the forests and the areas around Sydney, was merely a necessary and Launceston and Hobart no doubt extremely difficult aspect of preparing prospered because of these industries land for agriculture, and the cleared in the early 1900s. It is difficult to timber was often simply burned. determine the full value of the whaling However, some commercial logging industry to the Australian economy, and sawmilling ventures developed however, during 1791 Governor Phillip during the 1840s and 1850s. decided that he would open whaling as Australia’s first export industry, As market demand increased and the putting many of the ships that had technology for milled timber improved delivered convicts to productive use in in the 1870s, commercial timber fierce competition with whaling operations became an integral part of companies from Britain, France, the development of the Shire. The Holland, the United States, Germany great forests, big trees and their and elsewhere. processing remain an important part of the region’s folklore and heritage. Literally hundreds of colonial and foreign men would have been One of the earliest profitable ventures employed in these trades at the time, occurred in the early 1840s, as the spending their hard earned wages for whaling industry was drawing to a good and bad around Australia and close around Wilson’s Promontory. the world. The whaling companies Timber millers saw the potential of the also made reasonable profits on the tall trees around Sealer's Cove and cut whale oil and whale bone. A typical posts and rails for use in fencing and small catch with 100 tons of oil and 5 construction work in both Sydney and tons of whalebone would have had a Melbourne (Collett, 1994:44). Another total value of 2000, out of which 694 timber mill was established at Sealer's would have been deducted for the Cove in 1903, resulting in a little wages of 27 labourers and 1020 would township of about 40 people, complete have been paid for provisions, stores with houses and a community hall. and other charges, leaving a profit of Trees felled inland from the coast about 285. (Colwell, 1995:60) were transported on timber rails to the mill, sawn and stacked and picked up by steamships from an 800 foot pier for export to Melbourne. Most of the township was destroyed by bushfire in 1906 and the milling ceased at that time. (Collett, 1994:190)

A more organised venture began the following decade when Robert Turnbull, one of the original owners of the port at Port Albert, established a

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timber mill at Sealer's Cove in 1853. of new timber cutting and milling He intended to supply timber for the operations in South Gippsland. One of building boom being experienced in these operations was conducted under Melbourne. Turnbull soon moved his license by Charles Hall in the Hoddle venture to Muddy Creek, which is near Range, beginning in 1899 and lasting the present township of Toora, so as for about 15 years, when most of the to access the blue gum forest. He built workers were called to World War 1. a network of tramways to transport the timber to the waters edge, where it Hall built a tramway into the ranges was then taken by punt to ships and the Battery Creek area from Koondrook (later known as Hoddle) anchored off shore. This was another successful commercial venture for Railway Station. Twenty wood-cutters Turnbull who had a monopoly on all were hired and horse drawn trams were used, moving along rails shipping, provisions and trade at Port primarily made of wood. Blackwood Albert. trees went to furniture manufacturers Timber tramways were built in the in Melbourne and Mountain Ash trees Foster, Toora and Franklin River areas were split into lathes for use in during the 1880 to service the goldmines in Victoria. (Collett, sawmills. An early pioneer, Mary 1994:190) O’Dea, recalled her childhood memory Many of the trees felled were of the tramways: incredibly large. One such tree at There was a wooden tramline right Gunyah was sufficient in size to build through our paddock and Cleary's. an eight-roomed hotel there. (Murphy, There was a jinker and two big wheels 1994:66). In the case of the larger of six feet diameter and the logs were Mountain Ash trees, a temporary hooked on to the axle by a chain and scaffold would be built at the broad dragged along the tramline by base or stump of the tree to allow it to bullocks. Everywhere out this way be cut at a point with more tender there were hundreds of stumps cut in wood up to ten feet above this point. the characteristic way of axefelled Springboard planks 1.5 to 2 inches trees. (Collett, 1994:140) thick, 8 inches wide and about 5 feet long would be inserted by expert Another description indicates that axemen into a notch cut about 5 wagons with as many as 32 bullocks inches deep into the tree (Murphy, could be seen pulling logs and timber 1994:23). for the Mason’s sawmill at Nine Mile Creek, near the present village of Some of the springboard tree stumps Hedley. (Collett, 1994:145) were used as temporary houses, stables or churches (Collett, During the 1870s and 1880s, the 1994:138). Examples of these tree building of weatherboard houses for stumps remain today at Darlimurla and selectors created a new demand for Gunyah Gunyah. milled timber. In the Foster area, a sawmill at the foot of the Hoddle The Mirboo North district was another Ranges supplied finished timber to important timber area in the Shire selectors, while the sawmill at Toora, particularly during the period of land which had been closed down, selection from 1878 to the turn of the resumed production. (Collett, century. Establishment of the Morwell - 1994:138) Mirboo North Railway in 1886 led to the establishment of many small After the 1890s Depression, the sawmills where sufficient stands of demand for timber in Victoria millable timber existed. The railway increased again, leading to a number allowed selectors a relatively fast way

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to earn cash while clearing their sawyers. Little villages would occur blocks. The areas surrounding railway near the mill to provide housing for stations at Darlimurla and Mirboo married men, huts for single men and North were stacked with sleepers, a blacksmiths shop. If the community palings and battens to be shipped off was big enough, a community hall or a for sale (Murphy, 1994:65). school house that served a multi- purpose role for other community Timber tramways were commonly activities (church, dance hall, etc.) used throughout the Strzelecki Range would be built. Even though many of forests during the time when the the mills were temporary, they dense forests were cleared by the contributed greatly to the growth and settlers. The tramways were used by economic development of the Shire. bullock teams to haul timber from the harvest area to the mill and then to Conversion of many areas of native take milled timber from the mill to the forest that were less productive or of railway line. lesser commercial value to pine plantations was carried out by the Blackbutt and Mountain Ash trees Forests Commission Victoria on were used as “splitting timber" for Crown Lands in the Strzelecki Ranges making the selectors homes with slab during the 1960s. Survival rates for the floors, split paling walls and shingle pines were lowered by predators such roofs. Bluegum and MessmaIe trees as rabbits, wallabies and bush rats, were used for making stumps and which fed on the tender young fence posts. seedlings. After introducing 1080 A better quality house required pit- poison carrots to these areas, the sawn timber, created by positioning a Forests Commission increased its pine suitable log over a pit that was four and eucalypt plantations ire areas feet deep and six feet long. One near Childers, Allambee, Darlimurla sawyer stood on top of the log and and the eastern Strzelecki Range. another sawyer, in the pit below the At Mirboo North during the 1970s, the log, each drawing a seven or eight foot Commission planted over 1000 acres 'buck' or 'cross-cut' saw up and down of pines and a slightly lesser area of a marked line. (Gabbedy, 1981:73, eucalypts within a seven mile radius of referred to in Murphy, 1994:21-22) the town. APM Forests Pty Ltd also Timber felling and milling was also an increased its plantations on purchased important part of the economy in the farm land and on leased Crown Land. Leongatha, Korumburra and Loch (Murphy, 1994:316) areas. In particular, the building of the Although the number of small sawmills Great Southern Railway created a decreased greatly during the 1900s, in great demand for timber and many particular during the past fifty years, small mills were established close to commercial timber operations and the railway to supply its needs. milling continue as part of the South The mills were self-sufficient, utilising Gippsland economy today. The effect a large boiler fired with wood from the of the timber industry on the forest and mill off-cuts to create steam appearance of the South Gippsland to drive the engines that powered the landscape is visible in two ways today: saws. ƒ Firstly, many of the areas cleared A small sized mill during the late as part of timber operations have 1890s and early 1900's would employ become part of the trademark ten to twenty men as engine drivers, ‘green rolling hills’ of South log yard men, saw men, dockers and Gippsland.

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ƒ Second, the planting of pine collect the live catch between 1865 plantations has also created and 1868. Chinamen's Creek, another distinctive feature of South Chinamen’s Beach and Johnny Souey Gippsland Shire's northern and Cove derive their names from this eastern areas. period. (Lennon, 1992:8 & McNiven, 1995:12) Fishing Families living in the coastal areas of From the 1890s, crayfishing became a South Gippsland used fishing to major industry based at Port supplement an income drawn mostly Welshpool and the Corner Inlet area. from agriculture. During the late Many crayfishing boats frequented the 1880s, between twenty and thirty area, ranging from 60 feet to 73 feet in families at Toora, the Landing (on length. (Peterson, 1978:30-31) Stockyard Creek downstream from Foster), Port Franklin and Welshpool Other fish caught in large quantities combined fishing with a little farming to over the years have included make a living and sold their catches to barracouta. whiting, garfish, mullet, their neighbours at Foster. Many of trout, rock flathead., silver bream and these families were Scandinavian and flounder. there were Chinese as well as One of the more notable of the local Anglo-Saxon Europeans. (Peterson, fishing craft was the Janet Isles, built 1978:5-10) in 1913 by WB Smith and his sons, As transport and refrigeration who were prominent local members of technology improved, the fishermen Port Welshpool community. Peterson were able to extend their markets (1978:31) recalls how this medium further afield. The opening of the sized boat was not only renowned for Great Southern Railway by 1894 the large hauls of salmon, trout and provided a great boost to the industry; other fish it brought in, but was also for the first time, fishermen in the Shire popular for parties, picnics and other could compete directly with others social events. The boat is now on closer to Melbourne (such as at display at the Port Welshpool Tooradin) by loading their catch onto Museum. the train. The fishing industry resulted in the As we have seen, timber tramways construction of a number of significant using horse-drawn vehicles were used jetties and piers over the years. Collett to transport fish in cane baskets from (1994:250) describes how one large the piers at Port Welshpool and Port timber jetty built at Toora in 1889 was Franklin to the nearby stations. The unfortunately destroyed by an Army horse drawn tramway between Port commando unit wing in 1943. Welshpool Jetty and Welshpool station Remains of this jetty can still be seen. opening in June 1905. The journey The Welshpool fishing fleet was took thirty minutes, and gave the relatively large during the 1900s up fishermen better access to the much until the 1960s. A unique long pier with larger Melbourne markets. a curved design was built in 1937 to A small Chinese fishing industry was provide a deep water jetty at Port in operation along the shores of Welshpool (Collett, 1994:271) Wilson’s Promontory in the 1860s. The The Corner Inlet fisheries associated fishermen were based at Corner Inlet with Port Welshpool are the third most and made their living from squid, important within Victoria today with salmon, whiting, mullet, pike and approximately 200 tonnes of fish shellfish available in the area. Coastal caught commercially each year, and steamers called at Sealers Cove to

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approximately 175 tonnes of fish Stockyard Creek caught for recreational purposes Gold was discovered at Stockyard annually. Whiting, flathead, flounder, Creek in March 1870. Timber workers mullet and salmon are the principal who prospected casually in the area species taken. (Land Conservation had long held the belief that the land Council, 1993:151) was auriferous and the initial find was proof. Hints of gold had been found from the early 1850s, but the isolation 6.2 Gold mining of the region and a lack of government support for prospecting in this difficult country meant the leads were not fully Introduction explored for another twenty years. The gold rush began much later in South Gippsland than in other parts of Within a week of the find at Stockyard Victoria, but it was nonetheless caught Creek, thirty men had made the up in the gold fever experienced difficult trip to the field to try their luck. throughout the State as each new field However, heavy rains in April stalled was discovered and heralded as better the diggers progress and made the than all before. Miners and already difficult country even more speculators hoped that gold finds in trying to work and, compared with the South Gippsland in the 1870s would hundreds of people who rushed to the bring great wealth, however, as was goldfields in other parts of Victoria, the so often the case, the reality of gold Stockyard Creek field was deserted. mining in South Gippsland did not Reaching the diggings was no easy match the high expectations. matter. Prospectors had first to make While gold yields were far below those their way to Port Albert, either by boat at the lucrative Bendigo and Ballarat or by tramping along the coast. From goldfields, the discovery of gold was there it was a 4.5 hour trip by steamer instrumental in bringing people into to the Landing at the mouth of South Gippsland and many miners Stockyard Creek and then a five mile later chose to settle and moved into walk to the diggings. agriculture. Gold was also a catalyst Many found good surface gold at for the extension and improvement of Stockyard Creek. Others sank track and road networks to the mining substantial shafts, up to 80 feet deep, areas. through wet clay. The shafts bottomed on good deposits, but there was still no sign of the substantial lead that was suspected in the area. (Collett, 1994:62)

Despite these difficulties, between September 1870 to June 1871 Stockyard Creek grew from a group of 20 miners to a population of over 700. However, by the end of 1871 the boom times were over and although Stockyard Creek did not become the rich gold town that was hoped, it did outlast gold, to become the settled and permanent township of Foster. (Collett, 1994:77)

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The town was named after WH Foster, ten men who established a small base a popular magistrate who observed between Mt. Singapore and Mt. that a “court hearing could not be held Hunter. The venture was not in a creek”. He had a reputation for his successful. Similarly, small yields were sensible rulings on claim jumping occasionally found around Waratah disputes. (Wilson et al, 1995:43-44) Bay. (McNiven, 1995:12)

Turton’s Creek Gold was discovered at Turton's Creek, six miles north of Foster, in 6.3 Coal mining December 1872. Early finds were good and had Gippslanders hoping Introduction this would prove a richer field than any As Sykes (1997:5) points out, during other in South Gippsland. the mid to late 1800s Victoria followed the advanced areas of the world in Men deserted their claims at Foster being heavily reliant on coal as a and made then way to the new field, power source prior to the advent of so that within two weeks there was a electricity, oil and natural gas. The small township at Turton's Creek with Victorian Government had offered no less than thirteen hotels. incentives during 1852 and again in Competition was rife between the two 1870 for the discovery of good black neighbouring goldfields and those coal mining sites. remaining at Foster did not take kindly to having their work and supplies The initial coal discoveries in South disrupted by the new field. Gippsland were at Cape Patterson and Kilcunda and lie outside South The future looked bright for Turton's Gippsland Shire. During the 1880s Creek, so much so that storekeepers small scale coal mines were opened from Port Albert arranged, with up at Berry's Creek near Mardan, at government assistance, to have a Coalville near Thorpdale and north of track cleared directly to Turton's present-day Mirboo North. Creek; bypassing Foster, the existing tramway and the Landing. This At the same time that the busy improved access as the goldfield was goldfield at Stockyard Creek was situated in an area dense with ferns, evolving into the town of Foster, black scrub and dogwood. Again coal was discovered in the vicinity of prospectors had to battle the Korumburra. James Brown, a environment to win gold. prospector, discovered the Coal Creek seam while travelling from Stockyard In spite of grand hopes, the rush at Creek to Melbourne via the Strzelecki Turton's Creek died away as quickly Ranges in 1872. However, his as it had sprung up. By the end of discovery was not turned into a paying 1873 the alluvial field was largely commercial enterprise for another exhausted and miners were leaving in twenty years. droves. The township did not survive. (Collett, 1994:92-93) The isolation of South Gippsland and the lack of a suitable means to reach Wilson’s Promontory and Waratah Bay and transport the coal hindered A small gold mining venture, covering progress. Although historical sources 25 acres, was based around Mt. are somewhat contradictory (White Singapore On Wilson’s Promontory 1988) it appears that it was not until between 1866 and 1870. The selectors began to move into the Chancellor Gold Mining and Quartz district and begin clearing the country Crushing Company employed around that confirmation of important seams was made and they became

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accessible. (Committee of the South that larger quantities of coal were Gippsland Pioneers Association, present. 1920:230) The development of the fledgling coal The organised search for coal was industry was hampered by inadequate conducted in the Coal Creek area six transport to and from the area. In years after James Brown's find. The 1891, the government passed party of Henry Hine, WS Paterson and legislation to construct a railway line JR Paterson found indications of coal from Korumburra to Coal Creek, with deposits in the samples they took from the company to bear a portion of the the creeks. cost. The government was criticised for not financing the entire railway and Believing that this could indicate major supporting the industry. deposits in the area, JR Paterson successfully persuaded the Minister After commencing in May 1892, for Lands to reserve the land as a coal construction of the railway was reserve. It was at the time being completed the following October and surveyed for selection. Bowden the first train load of coal left the Coal (1970:119) notes that this was Creek siding on 25 October, 1892. achieved in 1879 although the Coal (Bowden, 1970:121) The day was Creek Mining Company was not declared a public holiday day in officially formed until 1888. Korumburra and the local community joined in the celebrations. The interim years were a struggle to raise the capital required for such a The demonstrated existence of coal at labour intensive venture. Financial Coal Creek saw some 46 other groups difficulties plagued the Coal Creek form syndicates and apply for mining Mining Company even though bores leases in Korumburra and surrounding had been sunk, a rail siding built and districts including Jumbunna and paying coal found and sold. In 1894 Outtrim. the Company went into voluntary Some of the mines became long term liquidation and a new company was formed and registered as the Coal ventures while others failed when it Creek Proprietary Company (Bowden, was discovered that payable coal seams were not present on their 1970:120). leases. Among the most successful of Government assistance was provided these were the Austral mine and the to win coal at Korumburra when in Jumbunna mine. The founder of the 1889, the Minister of Mines ordered Jumbunna seam, Mr TW Horsley, that a drill be brought from Kilcunda. recounted his discovery: The government hoped that the field would prove rich enough to relieve the The first discovery of coal in the above uncertainty of coal supplies from New district was made by myself in the South Wales, where the fields were months of May, 1890 in sowing grass subject to frequent industrial unrest. seed on some newly cleared land. Bullock teams brought the drill slowly This proved to be the forerunner of and laboriously along tracks other discoveries in the Outtrim and deteriorating in the winter conditions. Korumburra districts. The discovery The first bore put down did not show did not seem to me to be of much results and its location was a bone of importance at the time and it was two contention between Mr Field, the drill months later before I did anything to manager, the engineer for the Coal prove the thickness of the seam, Creek Proprietary Company and the which, to my surprise, turned out to be Mines Department. The second was 4ft. 6in. ...I and a man named Aikman more successful and a third confirmed had the honour of hewing the first coal

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in the district, the tools we used being developments also brought many an axe and a spade, no pick being environmental impacts and changes to available... the landscape, many which remain today in the form of abandoned (Committee of the South Gippsland railway cuttings and sidings, tailing Pioneers Association, 1920:234) heaps etc. The coal mining resulted in economic

activity in the Shire over a period of nearly fifty years, employing hundreds 6.4 Tin mining of men as miners as well as for the building of railways and skip lines for Tin mining played only a very small the transport of the coal to Melbourne part in the economic development of and elsewhere. South Gippsland, when compared with The mines were a tremendous more lucrative returns from gold and consumer of timber, stimulating the coal. However, tin mining was locally market for timber milling in the Shire. important on the Franklin River near The lure of profits also attracted the Toora from 1884 to 1914, and at entrepreneurs, some of whom were Wilson’s Promontory during the 1920s. more interested in buying land near Upper Franklin River the mines to sell to the miners and In 1884, a lease to mine for tin was other settlers who came with the granted on the upper Franklin River. formation of coal mining townships Two years later, the mine was (Sykes, 1997:9-12) producing modest returns of about a Workers dissatisfaction with working ton of tin ore per week. This had to be conditions (e.g. working the mines with taken by packhorse and dray to the their feet in water, dangerous wharf at Toora to be shipped to conditions or being forced to purchase Melbourne. land as a condition of employment) The results were good enough to and the pay were the source of some encourage others to try their luck and of the longest running and most in 1888, a group of Melbourne famous industrial strike actions just investors set up the Gippsland Tin before and after the turn of the Mining Company. They approached century. (White, 1988:119-135 & their new endeavour with great Sykes, 9-12) enthusiasm, describing their lease as The recurring difficulties experienced having “sufficient tin to supply the by those attempting to win coal were world for the next hundred years.” the laborious nature of the land and (Collett, 1994:153) industrial disputes. In addition, the This was yet another example of Victorian Government withdrew its colonial exaggeration aimed at support of the South Gippsland mines attracting investors. In reality, tin in the end, favouring the purchase of production in the area was erratic and coal from New South Wales. (White, failed to reach the high expectations of 1988:119) prospectors.

Coal mining brought to great economic Tin mining continued at Toora through stimulus to South Gippsland through 1914, when much of the big money the sale of coal, the influx of people behind the Toora Proprietary Tinfields and the building of communities, the was withdrawn. The mine continued construction of road and railways. on under sole proprietorship for a few However, there is little doubt that the more years, but the mine workers mining and its associated were largely itinerant and considered

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to be a 'rough lot' by local people. Payable ore was finally reached on 18 (Collett, 1994:216) December, 1924 but just two days later a flaw in the casting of one of the Mount Hunter, Wilson’s Promontory cylinders at No. 2 pumphouse caused Wilson’s Promontory was gazetted as it to break. The workforce had to be a National Park in 1905 and three stood down and repairs were not years later regulations controlling its completed until March 1925. The care, protection and management company never really recovered and were published in the Victorian returns were not sufficient to continue Government Gazette. mining. This followed some twenty years of The mine closed in June 1925 and in lobbying by members of the the next few years the huts were sold Melbourne Field Naturalists Club, led and removed and the equipment by JB Gregory, to have the dismantled and also sold. The Promontory declared a National Park. National Park Committee of (Lennon, 1993) Management eventually filled in the This did not, however, mean the end tunnels and shafts, though this had of prospecting and mining at Wilson’s formed the terms of the original lease Promontory. In the early 1900s and should have been done by the deposits of tin were found in the area mining company. (McKellar, 1993:25) adjacent to Mount Hunter. Towards Later attempts to revive tin mining at the end of the First World War, the Mt Hunter were not successful. scarcity of tin forced its value to double its pre-war value. Pressure to mine the deposits at 6.5 Lime extraction and Wilson’s Promontory increased and processing the government decided it was in the ‘national interest' to do so. The Argus Walkerville and Bell Point newspaper and field naturalist groups The limestone cliffs at Walkerville, opposed the decision. An initial previously known as Waratah, and prospecting lease was granted in nearby at Bell Point were quarried 1918, and when samples taken proved between 1878 and 1924 (Land payable, further mineral leases were Conservation Council, 1980:20) granted in 1920 and 1921. (McKellar, 1993:12) Leases were first issued for the limestone cliffs that are situated near At the end of 1924, mining began the present day village of Walkerville under the auspices of the Mt. Hunter South in 1874. A company known as Tin Mining Company. Accommodation the Waratah Bay Lime, Marble and was established along Tin Mine Creek Cement Company Limited was formed to the north of the mine. Rough and set about producing, burning and weatherboard huts were erected for transporting lime to Melbourne for use the mine manager and other staff, in building and agriculture. while the labourers were housed in canvas tents. A blacksmith forge, a In 1875, six brick and stone lime kilns store and explosives magazine were were built adjacent to the site set also part of the small settlement. aside for a jetty. Each kiln had its own (McKellar, 1993:16) packing shed and storage and was connected by rails to the jetty, which was competed in 1899.

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Patricia Fleming (n.d.:2) describes the distinct disadvantage given that operation of the kilns: Lilydale lime could reach Melbourne within an hour (Sharrock, n.d.:4) Each kiln was about 40 feet deep, brick lined and tapering to a narrow Around 1908, another lime lease was neck at the base where a grate taken out at Bell Point, some three opened into the back of a large shed. kilometers south west of Waratah. This The limestone was put into the kiln lease contained good quality deposits from above between layers of firewood of lime and produced good yields or, latterly, a type of coke called before the owners opted to go into breeze, set alight and allowed to burn farming in the area. slowly to a powder when it was The lime industry finally came to a halt scraped from the base of the kiln as in 1924. In April of that year the quick lime, bagged and stored ready Wyrallah, a steamship belonging to for dispatch.. the Gippsland Steam Navigation The lime was either hewn or blasted Company Limited, collided with the SS from the cliff face and then taken Dilkern in the entrance to Port Phillip along the tramway by horse drawn Bay and unfortunately sank with the dray to the kilns (Fleming, n.d.:2). After loss of six lives. The Wyrallah had being fired and bagged, the lime was made regular calls at Waratah to ship again taken by horse drawn wagon out lime to Melbourne and without this along the jetty to be loaded onto regular service, the industry had to be waiting boats. abandoned. (Sharrock, n.d.:25)

The jetty was constructed in stages James Hughes made an attempt to but was not complete until 1899. In the revive the industry when he took over intervening years, rowboats ferried the Waratah quarry site in 1925. He people, building materials, stores and was successful for a short period, but even horses between the shore and was forced to cease in the 1930s. The boats anchored in the bay. (Sharrock, quarry license was formally cancelled n.d.:4) in September 1931 although the quarry had not worked since 1928. In spite of the transport difficulties in receiving stores and transporting the With the end of the lime industry, local bagged lime to Melbourne, a small residents and their families were community grew at Walkerville. Tram forced to move away the area to find lines and roads were constructed to work, as the local economy was the kilns and by 1885 there was a almost completely dependent on the school and a post office. Houses were lime industry. built along the cliffs and connected by Today, Waratah Bay is enjoying footpaths rather than roads. something of a revival as a popular It was estimated that the lime industry holiday destination. supported around fifty families at the Limonite turn of the century, including those Near the Grand Ridge Road working in associated ventures, such approximately 5 km southeast of as cutting and hauling timber to fire Mirboo North, a relatively high quality the kilns. deposit of the mineral limonite was Waratah lime was reputedly of very mined during the late 1880s. This good quality and found a ready market brought about what is now known as even though a steamer called only the Limonite district. The quarrying of once a week to convey the packaged Limonite did not, really viable, product to Melbourne. This was a however, and any beginnings of a settlement were soon abandoned.

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6.6 Tourism The rising conservation movement Morgan (1997:103) notes that the public's rising awareness of nature Early days of nature appreciation and tourism and the popularity of bush tourism led Nature appreciation and tourism have to: been important and intertwined ..a strong sentiment in favour of activities since the very early days in protecting the bush and its South Gippsland. denizens....; the new deal was to Early explorers from Bass and Flinders observe and note the different onward and a number of well regarded species, not to collect trophies and artists, photographers and poets have pelts. presented Gippsland as a picturesque During the 1880s, the Field Naturalists and scenic landscape with dramatic Club of Victoria was founded, with forests, rivers and coasts. Morgan Baron Frederick Von Mueller an active (1997:95) describes how from the time member. The conservation mood led of its early exploration, Gippsland has to the protection of areas regarded as attracted outsiders "as a 'glorious special. world unstain'd by sin'". Strzelecki wrote "Everywhere Nature seems to During 1886, pressure was placed on have most liberally enriched this part the government by selectors for the for the benefit of man". During 1853- 40,000 acre timber reserve in the hill 54, the Government Botanist Baron country around Mt Fatigue to be Von Mueller included a trip to Wilson’s released. The conservation movement Promontory among three expeditions thought the trees should be protected, made at that time. finding support from some State Parliamentarians. During April of 1887, The natural significance of South the Minister for Lands, Mr Dow, visited Gippsland was not only noted by the Mt Fatigue timber reserve. Collett professional explorers, scientists and (1994:129) describes how, while riding artisans of the early years, but also by from Toora through the selectors the early settlers, who even though properties on the way to the reserve, faced with the dangers and difficulties he was "appalled to see, for mile after of taming the land, had a great mile, the magnificent forest ravaged by appreciation for its inherent natural the axe, the trees piled up for burning, and aesthetic values, representative of and the ashes of those just burnt". 'God's Domain'. Consequently, Dow returned to By the 1880's tourist guides were in Melbourne determined to protect Mt publication, including one entitled Our Fatigue Reserve from the selectors. Guide to the Gippsland Lakes and Melbourne-based environmentalist JB Rivers that first appeared in 1880, and Gregory proposed the protection of a later example entitled Tourist Wilson’s Promontory as a national Handbook of Australia by Donald park to the Field Naturalists Club in Macdonald. These books led to the 1887 (Lennon, 1993). His proposal 'rambling movement' of Sunday was met with a counter scheme to tramps and more extended excursions settle about 1000 financially into the bush by city people wishing to disadvantaged immigrants from the have health, recreation and outdoor Isle of Skye on the promontory, which pursuits such as hunting and fishing. eventually came to nothing. During As we shall see in Chapter 8, Sunday 1892 the club went by rail to Foster buggy rides, picnics and trips to the and Toora and Wilson’s Promontory beach had become a popular pastime became a favourite area for the club's fairly early in South Gippsland. tours. After a campaign lasting ten

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years, the Field Naturalists Club and a The construction of a road from number of South Gippsland 'patriots' Yanakie to Darby River Inlet improved met some success in 1898 after the tourist access to the park in 1928 and State government reserved 91,000 the subsequent construction of the acres of Wilson’s Promontory. South Gippsland Highway from Melbourne resulted in increased Wilson’s Promontory National Park visitation to the area. A chalet was Wilson’s Promontory National Park built at Darby River, providing guest was finally proclaimed during 1905 rooms. The Victorian Railways with regulations guiding its advertised Wilson’s Promontory to management gazetted in 1908. visitors as a romantic setting " Reserves and National Parks were commanding a glorious view... superb also formed at Mt Buffalo, Mallacoota coastal scenery... horses on hire... and Wingan Inlet at East Gippsland comfortable accommodation". (Collett, during that period. The Prom has been 1994:226) extended on a number of occasions since its initial proclamation including: Wilson’s Promontory not only serves as a significant reserve of natural ƒ The final 144 acres of the former heritage significance, but due to the township of Seaforth, surveyed historic involvement of Europeans with between Mt. Singapore and Mt. Wilson’s Promontory since the early Hunter in 1892, was absorbed into 1800s, it is also an area of rich post- the National Park in 1928. Despite contact cultural heritage, both as a this, the town plan remained valid whole and as represented by a until 1952. (McKeller, 1993:3-6) number of individual places within the ƒ Yanakie Run was added to park. Wilson’s Promontory National Park in 1975, and remnant stockyards Coal Creek Heritage Village and dams such as Varney's Coal Creek Historical Park was waterhole remain as evidence of opened at Korumburra in 1972. the former pastoral use of this area. Members of the Shire of Korumburra (Lennon, 1993) Historical Society initiated the development of a historical village By 1913, a house had been built at setting to display important elements Darby River to accommodate park of the region's past coal mining, dairy rangers and to serve as a meeting and timber industries. place for the Committee of Management. The Rangers cottage The former Korumburra Court House and another building were transferred was the first building to be relocated to to Tidal River during 1949, the cottage the village in 1970, and it was still provides accommodation for progressively developed with the rangers in the park today. relocation of additional buildings intermittently over the next twenty During 1919 a silent movie was made years. Today there are fifty buildings of a group on horseback at Lilly Pilly on the 16 hectare site of which Gully, of the light house and Mt nineteen are original, although some Oberon. By the early 1920s, the were altered in the early years to fit availability of motor cars stimulated specific site areas. Among the thoughts of exploiting the tourist recreated and refurbished buildings potential of Waratah Bay by building a and businesses, volunteers work and metalled road from Foster. Wilson’s demonstrate much of the historical Promontory could now be accessed by equipment and machinery. road in a car, however, no vehicle tracks existed within the park. (Collett, 1994:221)

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The park was renamed the Coal Creek Historic overland tracks such as the Heritage Village during 1998 and Grand Ridge Road (Liddiard's Track) continues to serve as an important and McDonald's Track remain as outdoor museum for the South scenic heritage drives while Gippsland Region. abandoned railways, such as the Great Southern Railway east of Tourism today Leongatha and the former Mirboo Tourism is an increasingly important North Railway have become popular part of the economy of the Shire rail trails that allow a more intimate today. South Gippsland is now part of relationship with the Shire's heritage Tourism Victoria's Phillip Island & landscapes and features for local Gippsland Discovery Region. A 1995 residents and visitors alike. survey by Tourism Victoria of visitor activities in the region revealed a high interest in sightseeing drives, shopping, dining out, bush walking, and visiting national parks and art galleries/craft centres.

The region attracted over 1.3 million visitors in 1995 that spent an estimated $102 million in the region, while an additional 1.4 million day trips to the region during the same period generated approximately $40 million. (Tourism Victoria, 1997) Although a large proportion of this tourism is focused on Phillip Island, other destinations within South Gippsland Shire, in particular Wilson’s Promontory National Park and the beaches of Waratah and Venus Bays are important tourist destinations.

Attractions such as the South Gippsland Tourist Railway and the Coal Creek Heritage Village are key facilities that not only attract visitors, but also allow the heritage of the Shire to be displayed and interpreted.

The adaption of heritage buildings such as the Mirboo North Butter Factory into a brewery and restaurant demonstrates how redundant historic buildings are being adapted for a new use. Historic homesteads and pastoral properties that reflect the Shire's heritage from the days of selection are becoming increasingly sought after as escapes for city dwellers when offered as bed & breakfast or holiday accommodation.

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HERITAGE Gold mining ƒ Examples of gold mining Heritage places identified by the Study equipment at the South Gippsland that illustrate the theme of Economic Shire Historical Society's Museum, development include: monuments to the gold miners at Stockyard Creek, and earthworks Timber cutting, sawmilling and related to the mines and diggings. plantations ƒ Remnant and re-growth native ƒ Early public buildings such as the forests within the State Forest and former Court House and the former National Park systems, particularly Post Office, as well as early miners those in the area between Mirboo cottages, and the Exchange Hotel. North and Gunyah Gunyah and at Coal mining Wilson’s Promontory National Park. ƒ Sites of coal mines at Berry’s ƒ Sawpit and main mill site at Sealers Creek, Jumbunna, Korumburra and Cove. Outtrim. ƒ Remnant Mountain Grey Gum at ƒ Various buildings and objects Darlimurla near Mirboo North (the associated with the coal era now ‘Big Tree’) listed on the National displayed at Coal Creek Heritage Trust Significant Tree Register. Village. ƒ Springboard trees at Gunyah ƒ Jumbunna town site and remnant Gunyah and near Toora. timber tramways. ƒ Tramway route from Mason's Mill to ƒ Sunbeam mine sheds southeast of Port Welshpool. Korumburra (featured in the movie Strikebound) ƒ Mason's Mill site on Nine Mile Creek and the Dickie's Hill Sawmill ƒ Various mine railway and skip car at Mirboo North. trackways and sidings in the Korumburra, Outtrim and Fishing Jumbunna areas. ƒ The remnants of a Chinese fishing camp at Chinaman Long Beach on ƒ The civic, commercial and Wilson’s Promontory. residential buildings in Korumburra, which demonstrate the prosperity ƒ The Fisherman’s Pier and the Long of the town during the height of the Jetty at Port Welshpool. coal mining industry from 1890- ƒ The Janet Isles fishing boat at the 1910. Port Welshpool Museum. Tin mining ƒ Fisherman’s cottages at Port ƒ Remnants of the Mt Hunter Tin Welshpool and Port Franklin. Mine at Wilson’s Promontory. ƒ The route of the Port Welshpool ƒ Remnants of the tin mine water Tramway, which can still be race and tunnels from the Agnes interpreted. River and on the Franklin river, north of Toora. Lime ƒ Walkerville lime kilns and worker cottage remnants and the Bell Point lime kiln remnants.

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Governance

INTRODUCTION

In the early days of settlement the Shire was included in a number of very large municipal districts that extended from Warragul in the North to Port Albert in the East. The creation of separate local government authorities based in local townships therefore marked an important step in the historic development of the Shire. Although the first municipal boundaries were essentially artificial constructs, they were drawn at a time prior to the area being fully settled and so were well established by the time that the majority of people settled in the Shire. Over time, the Shires of Korumburra, Mirboo, South Gippsland and Woorayl developed quite distinct identities, which were strongly associated with their local communities, and have largely survived the forced amalgamation to create the present South Gippsland Shire in 1994. Colonial, and later Federal and State governments have also played an important role in the administration of the Shire. The construction of permanent buildings such as court houses and post offices indicated the growing importance of a settlement. This chapter incorporates the following Australian Historic Themes: ƒ Governing; Developing institutions of self-government and democracy; Administering Australia; Defending Australia; Establishing regional and local identity.

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HISTORY The construction of the Foster Court House was followed soon after by the erection of the Post Office in 1891. 7.1 Colonial, Federal & State Following Federation in 1901, the administration newly formed Commonwealth Government assumed responsibility for postal services and embarked on a Government controls over the new building program, which saw new post colonial settlements in South offices established at Korumburra Gippsland have always been present, (1904), Leongatha (1907) as well as if not always direct, since the late 18th Loch, Mirboo North and Toora over Century. the following decades. These buildings All of the early explorations and much were among the first tangible symbols of the early sealing and whaling of the newly federated Australia within activities came under the control or rural Australia. guidance of the Queen's Colonial

Governors in Sydney. Once Melbourne had been established in 7.2 Forming local the 1830s, Superintendent La Trobe government exerted his influence and authority through the presence of the Surveyor Prior to the formation of shires as local General's office by sending out government institutions, South Assistant Surveyor Townsend and Gippsland was made up of several others to map and survey the land. roughly demarcated districts, counties During 1844, the Chief Protector of and parishes. Since the mid-1860s a Aborigines, GA Robinson made his series of Shire Councils with evolving way to Port Albert in the company of administrative boundaries have had six native police, again showing the local government jurisdiction over the face of the government to European Shire. settlers and Aborigines alike. Up until the mid 1880s, the Shire was As the land was settled and townships contained in three shires, each of developed there was a need for which had the headquarters in a town colonial (and later State and Federal) far outside the boundary of the Shire. governments to provide a permanent The first to be created was Alberton presence to enable matters within their Shire, inaugurated in 1864, which had jurisdiction to be properly overseen its seat of government at Yarram. The and administered. Along with western boundaries of Alberton Shire educating (which will be discussed in a reached as far as the Tarwin River later chapter), law and order was one catchment. During 1878, Narracan priority. Shire was formed with its The first permanent court house in the headquarters in Morwell, taking over Shire was built at Foster in 1889. This parts of Alberton Shire and its South was deemed necessary because of Riding taking in the areas of Boolarra, the many disputes associated with Mirboo North, Mardan, Koorooman mining claims. It is no mere co- (Leongatha) and part of Korumburra. incidence therefore that the second Meanwhile, the western portion of the permanent court house was Shire including Poowong, Jeetho, established at Korumburra, another Loch and Bena was included in the mining centre, in 1899. former Shire of Buln Buln, which extended from well north of Warragul, the Shire seat.

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As the Shire developed in population rationing of food and goods and in many of the settlers believed their many cases the women took charge of local areas were too remote and the men's roles or organised under-represented in the larger Shires themselves as members of the Red and lobbied for Shires of their own. Cross or the Country Women’s Consequently, the first new Shire to be Association (CWA). Many memorial created was the Shire of Woorayl, buildings, statues and avenues of which was formed from the former honour remain around the Shire today South Riding of Narracan Shire during as a testament to the people who May of 1888. served their country in these wars.

Three years later part of the Buln Buln At the outbreak of World War One, the Shire was excised in 1891, when the Federal Government, concerned at the former Shire of Poowong and Jeetho potential invasion, embarked on a was declared. The name of this shire building program to enable military was changed to the Shire of training to be provided in rural areas. Korumburra in 1922. Then in 1894, the As a result, drill halls were established first Shire of South Gippsland was in many country towns. The halls were severed from Alberton Shire, while in designed by the Public Works the same year Mirboo Shire was Department and followed a standard created from the East riding of the layout, which only varied in size. After Woorayl Shire, coupled with a portion lobbying by the Shire of Poowong & of the Narracan Shire. Jeetho, Korumburra was chosen ahead of Leongatha and Wonthaggi With the exception of some minor as the site for a Drill Hall, which boundary adjustments the make up of became the local headquarters of the the shires remained intact until the mid Army during World Wars 1 and 2. 1990s. The most recent South Gippsland Shire Council was formed During World War Two emergency in 1994 from all or portions of the landing strips were constructed near former Shires of Mirboo, South the coast and operations at the Gippsland, Woorayl and Korumburra Walkerville lime kilns and the as a result of major local government Gelliondale coalfield were expanded. rationalisation and amalgamations put During 1940, the British steamer in place by the Kennett Government of Cambridge was sunk off Wilson’s Victoria. (Refer to Hartnell, 1974; Promontory when it struck one of the Murphy, 1994; Collett, 1994; Morgan, fifty mines that had been laid by the 1997) German ship Passat. Wilson’s Promontory was closed to farmers and the general public for military 7.3 Defending Australia purposes. The lighthouse became a coastal observation station. A commando air base with hangars South Gippsland, like many other carved as large caves into Red Hill areas of Australia, was significantly was established and the No. 7 Infantry affected by World War one, World War Training Centre was set up at Darby Two and other global conflicts in which River, Lilly Pilly Gully and Tidal River. Australia and the Commonwealth Apparently many of the abandoned became engaged. Many of the local timber bridges and the Toora jetty men (some little more than boys) (built in 1899) were bombed during volunteered for military service, some target practice exercises conducted by returning as heroes, others not the military aircraft crews. (Collett, returning at all. The community that 1994:246-253) was left behind had to put up with

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HERITAGE

Heritage places identified by the Study that illustrate the theme of Governance include: Colonial, Federal & State administration ƒ Foster Court House ƒ Korumburra Court House ƒ Post offices at Foster, Korumburra, Leongatha, Loch, Mirboo North and Toora. Forming local government ƒ The municipal offices at Jeetho (former Shire of Poowong & Jeetho), Leongatha (former Shire of Woorayl) and Mirboo North (former Shire of Mirboo). Defending Australia ƒ The Korumburra Drill Hall ƒ Remnants of the aerodrome and igloo hangers at Commando Bay near Darby River within Wilson’s Promontory.

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Community and culture

INTRODUCTION

As we have seen, as the opening up of This chapter incorporates the following land for selection from the 1870s Australian Historic Themes: onwards drew increasing numbers of families to the Shire there soon ƒ Educating; Forming associations, became a need for places for meet, libraries and institutes for self- socialise, learn and worship. During the education, Establishing schools Pastoral era, the large private houses ƒ Developing Australia’s cultural life: of wealthy squatters often served as Organising recreation, Forming meeting places, as schools and even associations, Worshipping, churches, however, the Selection era Remembering the fallen, Pursuing led to the need for permanent public excellence in the arts buildings, which in turn led to the ƒ Marking the phases of life: Dying development of the first community centres. These buildings are important markers on the landscape, which express the hopes, dreams and optimism of the first settlers for the future development of their communities. In some places, these buildings were among the first structures that marked the ‘coming of age’ of important towns such as Foster and Mirboo North and Korumburra. In other districts such as Mardan, the optimism expressed by the community was never fully realised in the development of a permanent town and these buildings where they remain are often the only physical reminder of some of the very early settlements in the Shire. One building often served many purposes - many early churches often acted as schools and public halls before these buildings could be obtained (and sometimes vice versa). The places also represent important stages of life within communities from early childhood until old age. Consequently, these buildings have great social value and associations with local residents.

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HISTORY which heralded a new era of State education in Victoria. Many new schools were established after this 8.1 Places for learning, date. The passing of the 1872 Act co- meeting and worshipping incided with the opening up of much of the land for selection and so most of Introduction the early schools established within In many cases, as rural grazing the Shire were state schools. communities grew and the principal Meanwhile, the various churches also squatter or selectors hired workers, were involved in the provision of provision was made for a building to education. Church or denominational be used for a variety of purposes schools sometimes became National including religious gatherings, the or Common schools (and later State schooling of children, and for social Schools) if they obtained Government events. Charles and Loney (1994:71) Funding. describe one such building, which was erected as a school at Black's Prior to 1872, many pioneer children agricultural complex at ‘Tarwin were given lessons at home, while the Meadows’: more affluent rural families may have sent their children to boarding school The school provided a centre around in Melbourne. With the passing of the which much social and community 1872 Act schools were established activity took place. Dances, billiards where sufficient children resided. With and scouts.....were regular and well the coming of the railways by the end patronised. Gymkhana days were also of the century and with the discovery remembered, with horse riding races, of coal and gold, the population of games for the children and a dance at some centres such as Korumburra night, with people coming from miles increased substantially putting around. pressure on facilities. However, the The pioneers in some cases made do financial crash of the 1890s led to the with what they had at hand; a large tightening of purse strings within Mountain Ash tree stump at Mount Government departments and very Square Top was used as a church for little building of new schools was up to fifty people on Sundays, as a carried out for almost ten years. place to teach children and as a place Meanwhile schools such as to shelter horses while the surrounding Korumburra were bursting at the area was being cleared. The tree seams and the Department responded accommodated up to 50 people before by moving an old school from Clunes. it was destroyed during the great When building did finally re-commence bushfires of 1898. in the early twentieth century it was in Schools accordance with a model of standard The National Board of Education designs for one-room schools, the functioned from 1851 to 1862 most common type. Some of the managing government-funded, non- earliest examples were erected at denominational schools, of which 193 Mardan and Meeniyan by 1906. Still were built throughout Victoria. This communities found difficulty in was superseded by the Common obtaining suitable accommodation and Schools Act, which was passed in in some cases the only answer was to 1862. Finally, in 1872, the Free, construct the building themselves. The Compulsory and Secular Education Moyarra community finally obtained a Act was guided through the Victorian school in 1907 by this method. parliament by George Higginbotham,

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With the introduction of the new Religious services were sometimes standard designs, the schools were conducted by some of the Christian increasingly used only for their members of the community in private intended purpose and not as multi- homes until small halls became purpose buildings. However, as late as available in the community or a church 1939 a combined school and hall was could be built. Visiting ministers may constructed at Milford. have come around on an itinerant basis or on regular monthly calls. Lay By the mid-twentieth century there readers were eventually replaced with were dozens of one or two room permanent ministers or with clergymen schools throughout the Shire, who were responsible for a circuit of however, a great deal of consolidation church communities from a central has occurred and at many places only parish base. a sign or some trees remain to remind us of their existence. For example, the Mechanics’ Institutes and Public former Shire of Mirboo had Halls approximately 23 schools in different Public halls also dot the South locations over the years, most of which Gippsland landscape, erected by are longer open, and of which only a various community groups or local few have extant buildings. (Murphy governments largely on Crown Land 1994) that has been loaned to the local councils for little or no rent. Many of Churches the communities that once utilised Religion, particularly through some of these halls for meetings, dances, the mainstream European Christian receptions and the like have now all denominations, was an important part but disappeared. of South Gippsland's settlement and development. Murphy (1988:41) Mechanics' Institutes played an describes the importance of religion in important role during the early the formation of early communities: decades of settlement in South Gippsland, as they had throughout The majority of men and women who Victoria, following Scottish and English took up residence in the Tarwin Valley traditions. The first was built in in the early decades of settlement Melbourne during 1839 and over 100 were God-fearing people whose were established throughout Victoria intense faith helped them survive the by 1870, with another 300 constructed hardships and vicissitudes of those by 1892. A subsidy was provided by early years. Firmly believing in the the Victorian Government as an added words of the Scripture that 'where two incentive for the establishment and or three are gathered in My name, maintenance of libraries at these there am I in the midst of them' they institutes. (Murphy, 1991:3) quickly formed themselves into small congregations of their respective Aside from the Mechanics’ Institutes, denominations. which were built in towns such as Foster, Meeniyan, Leongatha, Collett (1994:196) suggests that the Korumburra and Stony Creek, many country itself may have provided other halls were built by Shire divine inspiration: Councils, scout groups, churches or A sense of carving out for themselves other community groups. In the former a kind of Promised Land within the Shire of Korumburra, for example, immense and beautiful bush seems to there were over 16 public halls built at have fostered a strong religious different times. (White, 1988) The halls sensibility in some people. were the backbone of social infrastructure and were used for public meetings, social, religious and civic

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functions, offering 'moral and mental Going to the beach improvement' to the community. Going to the beach for fishing, sailing, (Murphy 1991:3) beach picnics and swimming were also popular pastimes. Fishing was something that could be done in the 8.2 Organising recreation local rivers and creeks, as well as in the inlets and coastal areas of South Gippsland. During the early 1900s a Leisure and recreation were important horse-drawn wagon service was parts of pioneer and later life in South provided by Cole's Livery Stables from Gippsland, even though the early Leongatha to Inverloch beach every settlers often worked from morning til Sunday morning and fishing or picnic dark and had little time or energy for parties could be arranged for any day non-work activities. and Woorayl Shire Council were requested to allow the erection of At their homes, reading books, playing private bathing boxes along the beach. draughts or chess by lantern light was (Murphy, 1988:137) a common activity. Later in time, some of the more well to do families had By the 1920s a track leading to an established grass tennis courts and point in the Dunes at Waratah Bay croquet lawns near the main known as the ‘Gap’ gave horse-drawn homestead. The Tarwin Meadows buggies access to the beach and to homestead was an example of this, Walkerville following a route that ran which also sported an art pavilion, a partly along the beach and partly in fernery and gardens used for parties the dunes. A timber bridge was built and social get-togethers. (Charles & over Cook’s Creek. Loney, 1994:68) The Tarwin River near the ‘Riverview’ Recreation reserves Hotel was a popular spot for swimming When townships were surveyed sports meetings, while in the north, the recreation reserves were usually set Tarwin Lea property on Allambee aside for community use and had to Road was used for picnics and sports be cleared, ploughed, formed and meetings. The Mossvale Nursery at drained through a combination of the Berry's Creek was used by community volunteers and contractors residents for picnics and, later, for tendered by the Shire Councils. school carnivals. (Murphy, 1994:102) Murphy (1988:133) describes the creation of one such reserve at Swimming pools Leongatha: For inland communities where the beach or estuaries were not so easily At Leongatha, Surveyor Lardner accessible, the establishment of a reserved two areas, one of thirty-two reasonably safe swimming hole or acres for a park and recreation more formal swimming pools became reserve and another fifteen acres for a high priority. At Mirboo North, the showgrounds. At a public meeting held first swimming pool was established in on 24 June 1892 dissatisfaction was the heat of the summer of 1904-05. A expressed about the suitability of small stream on the north side of town these areas, and it was decided to ask was dammed in order to form a pool the exchange for them. This the Lands about 25 yards long. A dressing shed Department agreed to do, and an area was made of split palings and a six- of 107 acres was set aside for public foot paling fence enclosed the shed. recreation and show yards. The pool was lengthened and improved several times up until 1955, when the layout was made permanent with cement retaining walls and

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children's pools. (Eunson, 1978:222) A 1920s when the course was similar arrangement was used in the abandoned. During this time the establishment of a pool at Mardan highlight was the Stony Creek Cup, South in the interwar years. when a special train was run from Melbourne. The Stony Creek & District Dancing Racing Club was re-formed in 1947 Bands and music were popular leisure and the first meeting was held in 1950. time activities. The Mirboo North Band, Leongatha and Foster Clubs for example, was established in 1890 commenced racing at Stony Creek in and was often called upon to play at 1951 and continued until social and outdoor functions. Dances amalgamation in 1964 when the South held at the many small public halls Gippsland Racing Club was formed. dotted throughout the Shire were the Today, the club still holds regular social highlight of many local meetings with the Stony Creek Cup communities; held during a full moon still a highlight. they often continued until dawn. Stony Creek was renowned for the “excellence” of its dances during the 1920s. 8.3 Commemorating

In the interwar years, the advent of Introduction cinemas with silent and later, talking As in other districts, the World Wars movies drew audiences to many of the had a devastating impact, however, local Mechanics' Institutes or other they also served to unite communities theatres of South Gippsland. The in a common expression of grief. The Mechanics' Institutes at Leongatha loss felt by communities was and Mirboo North were two of these expressed in a variety of memorials popular venues. Some new Halls such ranging from memorial gates, to as the one at Mirboo-on-Tarwin Avenues of Honour, and even incorporated projection booths community buildings. These specifically for this purpose. memorials remain as a tangible Rifle shooting reminder of the impact of these Rifle shooting was a popular pastime conflicts upon the community. among many men over the years and Memorials various gun clubs were formed and Memorials to World War 1 were mostly rifle ranges designated throughout granite obelisks erected in prominent South Gippsland. One such range was locations in parks or median strips of located at the north edge of the townships. At Loch, Memorial Gates Labour Colony near Leongatha. Rifle were erected at the Recreation clubs were also formed at Meeniyan, Reserve. Dumbalk, Mardan, Korumburra and other localities around the Shire. Avenues of Honour The Avenue of Honour is a uniquely Racecourses Australian memorial, and one that was Racecourses were established at most popular in Victoria. The first (and many towns by the late nineteenth eventually one of the largest) avenue century including Foster, Stony Creek was established at Ballarat in 1917 and Leongatha. At Stony Creek a and by 1918 contained 4000 trees. track was set out on a straight section (Inglis, 1988:156) At least nine of road to the east of the town. An avenues were established in the Shire application was made by 1895 to after World War One. Reputedly, two reserve land for a racecourse, but this Oak Trees at Kardella were planted in was not enacted until 1910. Regular commemoration of the Boer War. meetings were then held until the

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Murphy (1988:197-198) describes the 8.4 Cemeteries establishment of the first Avenue of Honour in the Shire at Leongatha: It has been said that there are just two With the periodic return of injured and certainties in life – death and taxes. sick soldiers from the war, the Just as surely as communities needed question of a war memorial to the their hotels to socialise, churches to members of the Armed Forces was worship and schools to learn, they soon under discussion. Several needed a place to bury and remember schemes were suggested, but the one their dead. Sagazio (1992 (ed):25) finally adopted was that put forward by notes that: Mr W. Watson of planting an avenue Cemeteries constitute a significant of trees along Roughead Street and spatial and visual element in the urban then between the butter factory and or rural landscape and contain the Labour Colony. When a working- important historical and cultural bee was arranged for 22 June 1918, information about the communities over 200 people attended with spaces, that created them. They reflect vital shovels, hammers, etc to plant trees aspects of our social, religious, folk, and erect guards. All callings were architectural and literary history which represented, with farmers, contractors, are not found in such a combination in business and professional men any other place. participating. The Hon. J.E. Mackey, MLA, was present and displayed a As in other areas, the cemeteries in keen interest in the the Shire are memorials to the rigours proceedings...... Mr. Mackey was then and difficulties of country living - asked to plant the first of 170 trees virtually every burial ground has that had been obtained from Moss reminders of men, women and Vale Nursery. Mr. Mackey said he children who perished under harsh hoped that within a year they would be conditions. In some cases such as at able to meet and celebrate peace, and Allambee East, the cemetery is the that each soldier would be able to only place that remains to mark this return and say this is 'My' tree. Similar early community. plantings honour of enlisted soldiers were undertaken at Wooreen and at Cemeteries were also a necessity and Meeniyan in August. have ranged from a few isolated graves such as those on Wilson’s The Avenues planted in Victoria after Promontory and at Walkerville to the First World War usually comprised larger cemeteries at every township English trees in deference to the that have been maintained and ‘Mother Country’, however, one administered largely by dedicated avenues in the Shire at Meeniyan is a Cemetery Trusts over the years. A rare example using native species (in combination of government grants and this case, Flowering Gums) public subscriptions provided sources of funding to enable "nearby residents Memorial halls to clear 'God's acre' of timber and The largest building in the Shire erect a stock proof fence around the erected as a memorial to the soldiers boundary." (Murphy, 1994:31) was the new Shire Offices and Hall for the Shire of Woorayl erected by 1927. At around the same time, the Tarwin Lower Mechanics’ Institute was extended with money donated by the Black family and renamed as the Tarwin Memorial Hall.

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8.5 Hospitals The nurses and mid-wives associated with these nursing centres performed a very important and often difficult role Health care was a difficult service to under difficult circumstances. They provide in the early years of South frequently worked out of small Gippsland. Hospitals could only be quarters and had to go alone on horse built in the major towns such as back to remote areas in order to Warragul and Sale. Although doctors attend to sick settlers or assist in the serviced the larger towns in South birth of children by pioneer women Gippsland, either as residents or on a who could not get to a hospital. visiting basis, getting injured people of the bush to a hospital and caring for Due to the existence of competent the sick in outlying areas posed a doctors, nurses who provided private major problem. Accidents from hospital facilities in their homes and timberfelling were common among the two private hospitals located in men, but childbirth was a time of Leongatha, and delays in finances hazard for the women. Outbreaks of caused by the unemployment situation infectious diseases such as typhoid of the 1920s, a Bush Nursing Hospital fever, pneumonia and diphtheria were was not established at Mirboo North also common. Patients with serious until 1931. The first hospital building problems had to be transported to was used until it was replaced on a Sale, Warragul, or Melbourne. new site with another building in 1939, which operated until 1991, when it was During 1907, James Barrett proposed replaced by new hospital and nursing the setting up of intermediate hospitals home facilities in Mirboo North. to handle the problem of inaccessible, (Murphy, 1996) over-crowded and high priced hospitals. His ideas gained support, The Mirboo North hospital was but did not materialise as Bush followed by the establishment of Bush Nursing Hospitals until nearly 20 years Nursing Hospitals at Korumburra in later. During the intervening period, 1932, at Toora in 1933 and at Loch in the Australian Order of District Nursing 1936. The advent of World War II and was incorporated in 1910, with the the closure of some of the earlier associated Bush Nursing Association private hospitals increased the being inaugurated in South Gippsland demand for hospital facilities during at Meeniyan during March of 1912. the 1940s. As a result, the Bush Nursing Hospital in Leongatha was The success of the Meeniyan Bush opened in 1942 (Murphy, 1988:265) Nursing scheme led to its expansion Following the war, the Leongatha into the Tarwin Lower (where a Bush Nursing Hospital was merged residence was constructed for the with the Woorayl District Memorial Nurse in the late 1920s) and Waratah Hospital, established in 1958. Bay areas, with Nursing Centres at Dumbalk, Dumbalk North and Buffalo. Other Bush Nursing Centres were established at Poowong in 1922 and at Korumburra in 1930.

Meanwhile, private hospitals were being established to meet local needs early in the twentieth century at Leongatha and Korumburra, (some were for ladies only) as well as at Meeniyan and Toora.

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HERITAGE Hospitals ƒ The Bush Nursing Hospitals at Heritage places identified by the Study Mirboo North, Toora and Loch. that illustrate the theme of Community ƒ The former private hospitals at and culture include: Toora and Meeniyan Places for learning, worshipping ƒ The Bush Nursing residence in and meeting Tarwin Lower. ƒ Early Public Halls and Mechanics’ Institutes including Tarwin Lower, Stony Creek, Mirboo-on-Tarwin and Mount Eccles. ƒ Early churches such as Scots Church at Mardan South, the former Wesleyan Church, Poowong, Dumbalk North and Fish Creek. ƒ Early schools at Dollar, Mardan, and Moyarra. Organising recreation ƒ The ‘Gap’ camping ground at Waratah Bay, and the bridge over Cooks Creek. ƒ The grandstand at the Leongatha Recreation Reserve ƒ The Leongatha Croquet Club. Commemorating ƒ The numerous war memorials that exist in almost every township, for example those at Poowong, Korumburra, Leongatha, Meeniyan, and Mirboo North. ƒ Avenues of Honour in various towns and districts including Leongatha, Kongwak, Meeniyan, Wooreen and Welshpool. Cemeteries ƒ The cemeteries at Allambee East and Tarwin Lower.

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Building settlements, towns & cities

INTRODUCTION

As we have seen the pattern of settlement of the Shire in the late nineteenth century was essentially influenced by three things: the location of railway stations and butter factories, and coal mines. Thus by the early twentieth century the hierarchy of towns and their relationship to their surrounding communities was clear and well established. Foster, Leongatha, Mirboo North and Korumburra were the municipal centres and main shopping areas and served a regional function. Other towns essentially served a local role and were closely tied to their surrounding communities. With the exception of the mining settlements of Jumbunna and Outtrim which all but vanished after the closure of the coal mines, this distinct pattern of settlement has remained essentially intact until the present day. This chapter specifically considers the residential and commercial buildings associated with the development of settlements. Civic and community buildings are dealt with in another chapter. This chapter incorporates the following Australian Historic Themes: ƒ Building settlements, towns and cities; Planning urban settlements, Supplying urban services; Making settlements to serve rural Australia.

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Korumburra Butter Factory complex Source: Korumburra Historical Society

State Savings Bank at Korumburra c.1905 Source: Korumburra Historical Society

Dawson’s Cash Store (former) at Toora Source: Australian Heritage Group

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HISTORY cruelled by the coming of the railway to Mirboo North by 1884, and a newspaper article once referred to 9.1 Township development Mirboo as ‘a town that never was’ (Eunson, 1978:22) Introduction Port towns As part of the Government survey, While Port Albert was the pre-eminent which preceded the land selection port in the South Gippsland region, process township or village reserves Port Welshpool and Port Franklin were set aside in each Parish, which (along with Port Albert) also played usually included land set aside for important roles, the latter providing a recreation, public purposes (such as landing place for machinery and Mechanics’ Institutes, schools or halls) materials used in the construction of and a cemetery. These villages the South Eastern Railway. reserves were the earliest to be established in the Shire. As we have Railway towns seen, with the coming of the Mirboo As we have seen the opening of the railway in 1884 and South Eastern Great Southern Railway's opening led Railway by 1892 more towns were laid to the start of " a series of townships out around the stations along the lines spread out at roughly five mile and these towns soon achieved pre- intervals along the route'' (Murphy, eminence. 1988:109). Not all these towns developed. Those that did usually had On the other hand some towns such a butter factory or, as in the case of as Jumbunna and Outtrim also sprang Meeniyan, a large cattle market. There up spontaneously around coal mines were some exceptions such as Buffalo and were only connected by rail at a and Welshpool. later date. Mining towns However, simply being on a railway As we have seen the town of Foster line was no guarantee that a town sprang up around the gold mines would develop. If there is a common before settling into its role as Shire denominator amongst all the main seat. Similarly, Korumburra owed its towns of any size in the Shire it is that beginnings to the coal mining, and they all possessed a large and later became the centre of the Shire of successful butter factory. Poowong & Jeetho after the shire offices were relocated there by 1922. Early Government survey towns The earliest townships in the Shire But perhaps the best examples of the were established after the first surveys rise and fall of mining towns were of the 1870s carried out as part of the Jumbunna and Outtrim. Both land selection process. One example developed after coal was discovered is the township of Mirboo in the Parish and private subdivision created of Mirboo South, which was surveyed township areas. The coming of the south of the Tarwin East River in railway stimulated development and October 1878 about a year earlier than by 1900 Jumbunna had achieved a the ridge township known at the time population of 500 and Outtrim over also as Mirboo, but referred to then as 1000 (the latter boasting several Brennan’s Corner (now Mirboo North). hotels, churches, shops and a large Twenty-two allotments were surveyed. school). However, a series of In addition substantial areas were disastrous strikes together with the reserved for recreation. A Mechanics’ opening of new State coal fields at Institute was also established by 1887. Wonthaggi led to the closure of the However, development of Mirboo was mines and the inevitable decline of the

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towns. Many of the buildings were sold Hartnell (1974:26) describes one good and carted away to other towns while early example, which was located on others were destroyed by fires. Within the selection of Jimmy Baker selection a generation, both towns had all but east of Tobin Yallock (Lang Lang) vanished. along McDonalds in the 1870s:

Butter towns ...Jimmy and his wife Dorcas (or The importance of a butter factory to 'Darcas' as he called her) had begun the development of a town is perhaps providing accommodation after many best expressed by Kongwak and selectors began 'dropping in' on their Dumbalk. Despite not being located on way 'up the Track'. Mrs Baker has 'a a railway line, both had established wonderful faculty of providing sleeping successful butter factories, which accommodation for all comers included co-ooperative stores that however numerous'....Mrs Baker sustained the communities until the provided 'meals plain and good at rationalization of the industry in the reasonable prices'...." 1960s onward led to their closure. During the period of selection, In the main towns of Foster, prospective selectors needed places Korumburra, Leongatha, Mirboo North, to stay when they arrived at places Poowong the fortunes of the towns such as Mirboo North or Poowong. rose and fell with the butter factories The accommodation was sometimes over the years. It was only in the late no more than a tent at a camp with an twentieth century that a more diverse outdoor fire and billy tea, but it didn't industrial base began to be developed. take long for enterprising businessmen to establish reasonably good hotels,

even in some remote areas such as 9.2 Developing commercial Gunyah. As travel was made easier centres with the provision of railways and improved road systems, demand for food and accommodation at some of Introduction the intermediate stopping places As townships became established in dwindled, however, this was made up South Gippsland, so commercial for at the more popular destinations in centres were developed to provide the the larger towns. necessary goods and services. . The more major hotels and pubs have Hospitality had a tremendous effect on commerce The hospitality industry did not have as well as the appearance of glamorous beginnings in South streetscapes in many of the towns. Gippsland. Essentially it began in a This was particularly so for many of small way at homesteads located the boom time hotels of the 1880s along some of the main overland which displayed grand Victorian and tracks as a result of both human Queen Anne styles of architecture. necessity and human decency. As The loss of some of the great old mining villages and other townships hotels in South Gippsland has became established, boarding houses, markedly diminished the character of hotels, pubs, coffee palaces, cafes the towns over the years, one example and restaurants were established to being the demise of the large Victoria cater to residents, transients and Hotel that used to command attention short-term visitors. where it sat at the bottom of the hill on Commercial Street at the west end of Korumburra.

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Banking As with the hotels, banks flourished By the 1890s as the townships and waned with the boom times and developed and began to prosper the depressions experienced in ten to first banks were established in South twenty year cycles. However, given Gippsland. The banks were not only their outside resources, the banks important in providing finance to often built substantial buildings in the selectors in providing loans for main towns. The architecture of these clearing of land, paddock buildings not only demonstrated the improvements and the setting up dairy bona fides of the bank, but added businesses. They were also crucial in prestige and character to each town. the establishment of the newly formed Shire governments. For example, Horse and buggy livery stables when the former South Gippsland In the early days livery stables and blacksmiths workshops were important Shire Council broke away from Alberton Shire in 1894, the Bank of parts of every new village and Australasia was instrumental in township. Saddleries and granaries came along at the same time or shortly providing a £500 overdraft so that the Council could appoint and pay for staff after. As tracks improved enough to and begin the task of improving roads handle wheeled buggies, horse buggy makers and dealers came on the and services in the Shire. (Collett, scene, along with wheelwrights. Later 1994:178) when Cobb & Co and other passenger The influence of butter factories can and mail services became established, also be seen in the location of many coach stations and coach houses early banks. The small township of were built. Stony Creek reputedly gained a permanent branch of the Bank of Murphy (1988:115-117) provides a vivid description of the establishment Australasia because of its butter factory and after strong lobbying from and growth of the horse-related businesses and trades in Leongatha local residents. during the 1890s. Commerce was At Stockyard Creek, the Bank of heavily reliant upon horse-drawn Victoria began with a rented room in transportation, which persisted Charles Petersen's store, buying gold through the 1920s and into the 1930s from the miners. (Collett, 1994:81) The until the automobile became the first bank to operate in Leongatha was dominant mode of travel. The the Bank of Australasia in 1890, which buildings and trappings of the horse had also opened an agency in Mirboo and buggy trade and use of them by North that year. The number of banks the general public meant that the increased and the quality of bank entire appearance of the South buildings improved as local commerce Gippsland landscape, in both towns and economies grew. During the and rural areas, was heavily 1930s, Toora had two banks, the Bank influenced by these elements, from the of Victoria and the Union Bank. livery stables and granaries down to Murphy (1988:119) comments on the the hitching posts and watering importance of the banks to developing troughs. townships, not only for the financial Motor vehicle garages assistance they provided, but for the The advent of motor cars presented a qualities and skills the people in the gradual but major change to South banking profession brought to the Gippsland, both in terms of the ability community - often filling organising and speed with which people could get and money management roles for around and in terms of how the roads sporting and social clubs. were constructed, what towns looked like and what jobs people performed.

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A description of Foster during the early and pastoral towns of Poowong and 1920s gives some insight into this Mirboo North developed more slowly transition and its impact: or spasmodically, Mirboo North eventually outstripping Poowong as a ...newspaper advertisements reflected result of its railway connection. this transition. In 1921, the Great However, regardless of the strength Southern Co-Operative was and size of their growth, all towns, big advertising buggies and sulkies and small, required the basic (including one model that would take necessities of life - food, clothes and two cream cans), but the days of materials. As such grocery stores, buggies, sulkies and jinkers, gigs, clothing stores and hardware stores blacksmiths, wheelwrights and were established. saddlers were numbered, for the same issues carried advertisements of the For many years all of the essential Yarram garage (Phone 17), agent for elements could be found under a the Dodge motor cars. Dr. Wilson at single roof of the General Store. Foster had a Dodge, which meant that Collett (1994:106) describes an early on Thursdays, for example, he could example of such a store in Foster: be consulted at Fish Creek until noon, and then motor to Welshpool to be Stennet's Bridge Store could supply consulted from 1.45 until 2.30, then be 'oats, bran, maize, chaff, timber, iron, doors, sashes, wines and spirits, at the Coffee Palace at Toora from 3.15 until 4.00, and home to Foster for bottled ale and porter, and Carlton the evening surgery. Yet his brother XXXX Ale in bulk. Grocery, drapery, Percy James Wilson the lawyer, still ironmongery, boots, shoes, etc.' rode a horse...... The scholarly lawyer As some of the towns grew and time rode to his consulting rooms in moved on, competition for the general Meeniyan, and since the horse knew stores developed in the form of the road Wilson read Greek text as he specialty shops, including butcher went. shops, clothing shops and By 1922 Foster had its own Dodge haberdasheries, bakeries, chemist shops and so forth. Although the agency at the garage at the garage of Arthur Tobias, and local newspapers public seem to enjoy the choice carried accounts of a round journey offered by different shops, the concept of a general store has never entirely from Melbourne to Sale, Foster, and Fish Creek by motor car." (Collett, died out. In some smaller towns, such as Poowong, the old General Store is 1994:221) still the centre of business, while in the In Leongatha, the increasing larger towns, such as Leongatha and importance of the motor car was Korumburra, the supermarket chain demonstrated by the imposing new stores now fill the role of supplying all garage in the Spanish Mission style and sundry under one roof. erected by Mr UV Knight in Bair Street in the early 1930s. Retailing The speed of development of commerce in South Gippsland townships varies widely from place to place, depending on how rapidly the settlers arrived. The gold and coal mining towns of Foster, Turton's Creek and Korumburra tended to develop in a fever overnight, whereas the bush

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9.3 Residential development

Early housing within the Shire was primitive in its construction and designed to provide the most efficient and utilitarian form of shelter given the lack of building materials. As towns were established and became more prosperous more substantial villas began to be constructed. In Korumburra, the prosperity of the town during the late nineteenth century began to be reflected in Victorian villas erected along Radovick Street and Bridge Street. In 1899, a large residence known as ‘Braeside’, designed by a Ballarat architect, was erected in a prominent position in Radovick Street for Peter Hudson.

At Leongatha in 1897, local councilor and hotelier Hugh McCartin erected what was termed the ‘finest dwelling house’ in that town at that point. An article in ‘The Star’ enthused about the quality of its decoration and finishes inside and out. However, the boom in residential development was to occur later in Leongatha and many of its finest houses were erected during the interwar period. In the 1920s a builder, FW Morris, came to the town and designed and constructed many fine houses including his own residence, constructed in brick in the attic bungalow style in Jeffrey Street.

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HERITAGE have long since been destroyed or significantly modified, however, one example is a Bills’ Horse trough at Heritage places identified by the Study Fish Creek. Some early transport- that illustrate the theme of Building related premises include the former settlements, towns and cities include: Goller Saddlery Store (1920s) in Township development Leongatha, Boston's Carriage Works ƒ Loch and Stony Creek are & Blacksmiths (1893) in Korumburra, examples of towns that initially and the former Knights Garage in developed around the railway Leongatha. station, and later because of a butter factory. Residential development ƒ The residential precincts in ƒ Kongwak is an example of a town Radovick Street (and surrounds) in that developed around the butter Korumburra, and Ogilvy Street in factory. Leongatha. Developing commercial centres ƒ Mortlake, the former residence of ƒ The commercial precincts in Bair FW Morris at 41 Jeffrey Street, and McCartin Streets, Leongatha Leongatha. and Commercial, Bridge and Radovick Streets in Korumburra. ƒ Rostrevor, the former residence of Hugh McCartin, now situated at 27 Early bank buildings including: Turner Street, Leongatha ƒ The Colonial Bank of Australasia ƒ Braeside at 52-54 Radovick Street, (1907) in Mirboo North Korumburra. ƒ The former Banks of Australasia at ƒ Wilga, the former residence of Mr Fish Creek (1910) and Stony Creek Ernie Dickson, at 59 Station Road, (1911) Foster. ƒ The former Union Banks at Loch (1902) and Toora (1907). Early hotel buildings including the Austral Hotel in Korumburra, the Exchange Hotel in Foster, the Seaforth Cafe/Restaurant at Port Welshpool, the Royal Standard in Toora, and Bair’s Otago Hotel in Leongatha.

Early retail buildings including:

ƒ The former Hayes’ Store (1892) at the corner of Roughead and Hughes Streets, Leongatha. ƒ The former Koonwarra Coffee Palace (1892). ƒ Bigelow's Store in Loch (1892) ƒ The former Dawson’s Cash Store (1914) in Toora. ƒ The early (c.1895) shops at 42, 62 and 86 Ridgway in Mirboo North. Most of the heritage places associated with the early horse and buggy era

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References

1 Documentary Sources Billis, RV. & Kenyon, AS. 1974. Pastoral Pioneers of Port Phillip, Stockland Press, Melbourne 1st Victorian Parliament Standing Committee on Railways published 1932 1891. Reports of Individual Inquiries Beaumont, NE., Curran, JF. and into Railway Matters. Melbourne: Hughes, RH. Government Printer. 1959. Early Days of Berwick and its Surrounding Districts, 2nd edition, (1st McMillan, Angus edition, 1947) 9 March – 5 June 1864. Journal of the Leader of the Alpine Expedition Berwick-Pakenham Historical (Gippsland) State Library of Victoria, Society Manuscript Collection, MS9776, Box 1982. In the Wake of the Pack Tracks. 268/2 A History of the Shire of Berwick, Now the City of Berwick and the Shire of Middleton & Maning Pakenham. 1983. Gippsland Directory Bairnsdale, Kapana Press. Bowden, Dr. K. 1970. Early Days of Korumburra, Balwyn, the Author.

2 Books, Booklets and 1970. The Great Southern Railway, Pamphlets Published in association with the Australian Railway Historical Society. Adams, John Brady, MI. 1990. From These Beginnings. History 1984. There Were Five Creeks. An of the Shire of Alberton, Yarram: Anecdotal Account of the South Alberton Shire Council. Gippsland Town of Carrajung 1900- Anderson, WK. 1930, Melbourne: Kathleen Brady 1994. Roads for the People,

Australian Heritage Commission Carroll, JR. 1994. Methods Papers: East 1989. Harpoons to Harvest, The Story Gippsland and Central Highlands joint of Charles & John Mills: Pioneers of Forest Projects, Volume 2 Cultural Port Fairy, Warrnambool Institute Values, Australian Heritage Press. Commission, Barton, ACT. & Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources, Charles, R. & Loney, J. East Melbourne, Victoria.. 1989. Not Enough Grass to Feed a Single Bullock. A History of Tarwin 1994. More than Meets the Eye: Lower, Venus Bay and Waratah, Identifying and Assessing Aesthetic Manifold Heights, Rod Charles. Value, 1993 Technical Workshop Series No. 7, Australian Heritage Citroen, C. Commission, Barton, ACT. 1992. Korumburra Public Park Avery, J. and Atkin, B. Clark, ID. 1986. Memories of 2773: Hedley 1990. Aboriginal Languages and School Centenary, South Gippsland Clans: An Historical Atlas of Western Publishing Co. Pty. Ltd., Foster, and Central Victoria, 1800-1900, Victoria. Monash Publications in Geography No. 37.

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Coffey, L. & John, M. Gardner, PD. 1995. Stockies & Cockies: 1992. Names of South Gippsland: Reminiscences of Stock Inspection in Their Origins, Meanings and History, Victoria 1830-1995, Bendigo: Animal Ensay: Ngarak Press. Health Officers Association. 1994. Too Old to Rat: The Radical Collett, Barry Miners of South Gippsland 1893-1904 1994. Wednesdays Closest to the Full Ensay: Ngarak Press. Moon, Carlton: Melbourne University Godbold, N. Press 1989. Victoria Cream of the Country. A Colwell, M. History of Victorian Dairying, Victoria: 1995. Whaling Around Australia, Seal Dairy Industry Association of Victoria. Books, Sydney, NSW. Gough, D. Crawford, R. 1985. Bibliography of West and South 1983. Yanakie. Station to Settlement Gippsland, Warragul: West Gippsland 1850-1983, Yanakie: Yanakie Hall Regional Library. Committee.

Hammond, R. & Leonard, M. Daley, CS. 1984.Landscape Character Types of 1960. The Story of Gippsland. Early Victoria, Melbourne: Forests Changes in Vegetation from a Grazing Commission of Victoria. Run on Yanakie Isthmus Melbourne, Dept of Conservation & Natural Hansford, BC., and Esler, GK. 1990. Tigers on the Prowl: A History of Resources. the Foster Football Club in South Gippsland 1890-1990, South Gippsland Publishing Company, Eunson, W. Foster, Victoria. 1978. The Unfolding Hills: Mirboo Pioneers of the Gippsland Forests Hartnell, R. 1878-1914, Mirboo Shire Council, 1974. Pack Track to Pasture: A History Victoria. of Poowong, Poowong: Poowong Centenary Committee.

Horsfall, RA. Farrell, Meme 1951. Development of the Hedley- 1977. Fish Creek: Good Old Days, Gelliondale Area 1951. South Gippsland Publishing Co., Victoria. Fitzgerald, Bryan Land Conservation Council 1977. A History of Land Selections in 1980. South Gippsland Shire. District Earliest South Gippsland, Korumburra, 2 Report Melbourne: Land South Gippsland Sentinel Times. Conservation Council, 1980 Final Report. District 2 1982 Fleming, P. 1975. The Waratah Story Korumburra, Lennon, Jane South Gippsland Historical Society. 1992. Our Inheritance: Historic Places in Victoria, East Melbourne: Flett, James Department of Conservation & 1979. The History of Gold Discovery in Environment. Victoria, Poppet Head Press. 1st published 1970 Leongatha Historical Society 1989 Knox’s Rockhill Farm Leongatha: No 5.

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Leslie, John W. Morgan, Peter 1973. The Wind Still Blows. Early 1989. Lasseter at Foster and Toora Gippsland Diaries Self published. South Gippsland Historical Society, Foster, Victoria. Littlejohn, EJ. 1978. Seventy Years Around Ryton 1997. The Settling of Gippsland: A Junction in the Strzelecki Ranges Regional History Leongatha: Sale: Enterprise Press. Gippsland Municipalities Association. Loney, Jack Mueller von, F. 1990. Ships at Port Welshpool and 1879. The Plants of Victoria Succinctly Other Memories. Defined, Melbourne: Government Printer, 1879 1994. Wrecks along the Gippsland Coast Portarlington: Marine History. Murphy, John First published 1968 1983. Leongatha Labour Colony 1893- 1919, Leongatha: Woorayl Historical Lyndon, Ellen Society. 1993. Door to the Forest: Collected Stories From One of Nature’s Lifelong 1988. No Parallel. The Woorayl Shire Friends, Inverloch: South Gippsland 1888-1988, North Melbourne: Conservation Society. Hargreen Publishing Company.

1994. The Story of Mossvale Park, 1991. Leongatha Mechanics’ Institute Leongatha: Woorayl Shire Historical and Free Library 1891-1991, Society. Leongatha: Woorayl Historical Society.

1994. On the Ridge. The Shire of Mirboo 1894-1994, St. Leonards: Allen Malone, HJ. 1932. A Short History of Central South & Unwin. Gippsland, Buffalo: The Author. 1996. Mirboo North and District Bush McAndrew, J. Nursing Hospital 1931-1993, 1968. Regional Guide to Victorian Committee of Management of the Geology, Melbourne: Geology Mirboo North and District Bush Department, University of Melbourne. Nursing Aged Care Inc., Victoria. McMaster, May 1996. Turton’s Creek: Valley of Noble, W. S. Treasure and Charm, May McMaster, 1976. The Strzeleckis: A New Future Victoria. for the Heartbreak Hills, Melbourne: McKellar, I. Forests Commission Victoria. 1993. The Rise and Fall of the Mt.

Hunter Tin Mine: A Glimpse at the History of Northern Wilson’s Peel, Lynette J. Promontory, Heathmont: I & M 1974. Rural Industry in the Port Phillip McKellar. Region. 1835-1880, MUP McRae, C. F. Peterson, LM. 1989. Pasture Growth & Utilisation in 1978. Time and Tide at Port South Gippsland Leongatha: Welshpool, Gippsland Times Department of Agriculture and Rural Commercial Printing, Sale, Victoria. Affairs. Pilkington, V. South of Dividing Creek: A History of Sandy Point, Sentinel-Times Print, Korumburra & Wonthaggi, Victoria.

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Priestly, Susan Tuck, WJ. 1984. The Victorians: Making Their 1951. Extracts from Records: Mark, Fairfax, Syme & Weldon Commonwealth Lodge No. 186, The Russell Printing Concern, South Yarra.

Ramsay, M. 1991. Steam to Strzelecki. The Koo- Vale, J. wee-rup to McDonald’s Track Railway, 1988. With Mud on their Boots. Toora Melbourne: Australian Railway 1888-1988, Toora: Toora Centenary Historical Society. Committee.

Reynolds, H. 1972. Aborigines and Settlers: Problems in Australian History, Cassell Walsh, Greg Australia Ltd., North Melbourne, 1993. Korumburra: The Future of South Gippsland Warrnambool: Victoria. Gregory F Walsh & Assoc.

Watson, Don Sharrock, M. 1984. Caledonia Australis. Scottish 1987. Recollections of Waratah and Highlanders on the Frontier of the Ten Mile, Leongatha: Woorayl Australia. Milson’s Point: Random Historical Society. House. Shire of Mirboo Wells, John 1973. Mirboo North Reflections: Back 1986. Gippsland – People, a Place to Mirboo North-Easter, Sentinel- and their Past, Drouin: Landmark Times Publishing Co. Pty. Ltd., Press. Korumburra & Wonthaggi. White, Joseph South Gippsland Pioneers 1988. The History of the Shire of Association (Committee of) Korumburra, Korumburra: Sentinel- 1966. The Land of the Lyre Bird, Times Print. Korumburra: The Shire of Korumburra, 1st published 1920 Wilson, Dr. H. C., Cunningham, E. R., and Esler, G. K. South Gippsland Conservation 1995. From Palings to Pavements: A Society History of Foster 1870-1995, South 1995. Beach and Bush Day Trips, Gippsland Publishing Co., Foster, South Gippsland Conservation Victoria. Society.

Sparkes, N. 1997. How They Keep in Touch: York, AA. Wilson’s Promontory 1981. Journey to the Eighties in Telecommunication, A Brief History, Gippsland. South Gippsland Shire Historical Society, Victoria. Spreadborough, R. & Anderson, H. 1983. Victorian Squatters, Ascot Vale: Red Rooster Press.

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3 Articles and Reports 4 Heritage Documents

Allom, Lovell & Associates Australian Heritage Commission March 1998. Wilson’s Promontory April 1990. Criteria for the Register of National Park. Design Services the National Estate. Application Working Paper. Guidelines, Australian Heritage Commission.

Principal Australian Historic Themes Downes, Max Draft Paper March 1989. Stockyard Creek and the Melbourne Track at Corner Inlet. duCros and Associates Department of Planning & Housing 1998. Archaeological Assessment of April 1991. Local Government the Tidal River Area: Wilson’s Heritage Guidelines. Promontory National Park. Report prepared for Parks Victoria. Dwyer, S. Heritage Victoria 1998. Information and Ideas for the 2005 Victorian Heritage Register, Future Development of the Tarwin Melbourne: Historic Buildings Council Lower Butter Factory. (Vic).

2000 Victorian Heritage Strategy 2000-2005, Melbourne: Historic Ellis, M. Buildings Council (Vic). Nirvana Park in The Australian Garden Journal .

1995. Mossvale Park in South Johnston, C. Gippsland in The Australian Garden 1994. What is Social Value? Journal, Gippsland Heritage Journal, Canberra: Australian Government June 1990. No. 8. Publishing Service.

Lennon, J. Kerr, G. March 1993. Cornerstone of the 1990. The Conservation Plan: A Guide Continent. A History of Wilson’s to the Preparation of Conservation Promontory in Park Watch, No. 172. Plans for Places of European Cultural Significance, Sydney: National Trust of Leongatha Historical Society Australia. 1989 Knox's Rockhill Farm, No. 5.

Marquis-Kyle, P. & Walker, M. McNiven 1992. The Illustrated Burra Charter March 1995. Archaeological Survey of Sydney: Australia ICOMOS Inc. Chinaman Long Beach, Wilson’s Promontory, Victoria. Report to Heritage Services Branch, Aboriginal Affairs

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