616 SWAZILAND — Introduction modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Introduction — SWAZILAND 617
Swaziland
The Kingdom of Swaziland stands as Africa’s last remaining absolute monarchy, ruled by King Mswati III. Many Swazis live in the rural countryside and still maintain a strong day-to-day culture and community traditions. Two of the largest cultural events are the Top of Left page: IMG: Rural Swazi Kitchen This page: single image - from the following list: annual kingdom-wide Umhlanga (reed) dance and Incwala (first IMG: King Mswati III Entering the Umhlanga (reed dance) IMG: Maidens Parade at the Umhlanga (reed dance) --- FLIP fruits) ceremony that attract tens of thousands of Swazis and visitors img
hoping to bear witness to these unique events. IMG: Swazi Prince at the Umhlanga (reed dance) --FLIP img The small landlocked country is encircled by South Africa and A Single Image, Mozambique. It boasts a handful of nature reserves and game parks or Collage of Im- SWAZILAND that, like Swazi culture, have remained relatively unexplored by foreigners. While Swaziland's game parks don’t compare in size or SWAZILAND refined amenities to those in neighboring South Africa, some consider Swazi reserves superior because of their solitude and rustic beauty. 618 SWAZILAND — Highlights modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Highlights — SWAZILAND 619
EN4 EN4 R40 R40 R570 R570
MachadodoorpMachadodoorp SibayeniSibayeni C h a p t e r h I g h l i gBelfast h tsBelfast M M R571 R571 A A HhohhoHhohho MatsamoMatsamo M M Swaziland R38 BarbertonR38 Barberton Ezulwini Valley – Unwind in the valley NgoniniNgonini EN4 EN4 541 541 O O that Swazis refer to as "The Place of R38 R38 R40 R40 MR1 MR1 O O Heaven" (p635) R36 R36 C C HerefordsHerefords R33 R33 Z Z Sibebe Rock – Climb straight up the PiggsPiggs ManangaMananga BadplaasBadplaas BulembuBulembu Z Z steep face of one of the largest exposed PeakPeak A A TshaneniTshaneni LomahasaLomahasa granite rocks in the world (p631) I A I A MR3 MR3 R38 R38 EN5 EN5 C C BholekaneBholekane MhlumeMhlume A A CarolinaCarolina M M Woza Nawe Cultural Tours – Find the I I MalolotjaMalolotja PhindivukePhindivuke heart of Swaziland as you explore and stay Nature Res.Nature Res. R33 R33 N17 N17 M M in a rural Swazi village (p644) R36 R36 R RR R ForbesForbes Reef Reef EnkhabaEnkhaba MaphiveniMaphiveni B B Hawane Hawane NatureNature Nature Res.Nature Res. ReservesReserves Usutu River – Get soaked in Class IV F F OshoekOshoek NgwenyaNgwenya SimunyeSimunyeMlawulaMlawula SibebeSibebe Milba Milba Nature Res.Nature Res. N17 N17 Goba Goba I I rapids and steer clear of crocodiles while MotjaneMotjane B B RockRock Hlane RoyalHlane RoyalMhlumeniMhlumeni R38 R38 N542 N542 ChrissiesmeerChrissiesmeer MR5 MR5 rafting down the Usutu River (p640) A A National NationalPark ParkMbuluzi Mbuluzi BreytenBreyten F F Game Res.Game Res. Q Q MbabaneMbabane Luve Luve
N17 N17 I I Nature Reserves – Venture off the MR7 MR7 N11 N11 R36 R36 WaverleyWaverley EzulwiniEzulwini
beaten path through one of Swaziland’s MantengaMantenga U U Q H H Nature Res.Nature Res. MR3 MR3 Q pristine nature reserves in the northeast- MhlambanyatsiMhlambanyatsi MpakaMpaka LonhluphekoLonhlupheko MilwaneMilwane MafutseniMafutseni ern part of the country (p652) Wildlife Sanc.Wildlife Sanc. Siteki Siteki N17 N17 A A MahlanyaMahlanya E E T T ManziniManzini
ErmeloErmelo MatsaphaMatsapha
U BhunyaBhunya U MalkernsMalkerns N2 N2 MR18 MR18 MR9 MR9 R65 R65 MR8 MR8 SandlaneSandlaneMR19 MR19 ValleyValley MR16 MR16 CamdenCamden U U NerstonNerston
R86 R86 LoyengoLoyengo MikhayaMikhaya
R35 R35 Amsterdam Amsterdam Game Res.Game Res. E MR4 MR4 SidvokovoSidvokovo E R39 R39 UsutuUsutu O O ReserveReserve N2 N2 MankayaneMankayane SiphofaneniSiphofaneni PhuzumoyaPhuzumoya SheepmoorSheepmoor MorgenzonMorgenzon WozaWoza Nawe Nawe SWAZILAND S S MR4 MR4 MR8 MR8 R33 R33 CulturalCultural Tours Tours
N11 N11 Big BendBig Bend H H MgaziniMgazini MR9 MR9 N2 N2 EmahlathiniEmahlathini R35 R35 MR11 MR11 MR26 MR26 SithobelaSithobela SWAZILAND
Gege Gege MR8 MR8
T T MPUMALANGAMPUMALANGA HlathikuluHlathikulu AmersfoortAmersfoort Piet RetiefPiet Retief MalomaMaloma LubuliLubuli MR9 MR9 MR11 MR11 NsokoNsoko
R543 R543
BothashoopBothashoop U U NhlangnoNhlangno MR8 MR8 DirkiesdorpDirkiesdorp N2 N2 MR11 MR11 N11 N11 MhlosheniMhlosheni R23 R23 SihultseSihultse K WAK WA Z U Z L U U L U
MR11 MR11 NATALNATAL O O MR11 MR11 LavumisaLavumisa R543 R543 N2 N2 SalitjeSalitje GolelaGolela VolksrustVolksrustR543 R543WakkerstroomWakkerstroom
R543 R543 S S 0 Kilometers10mi 0 PaulpietersburgPaulpietersburg 0 Miles 10km 0 N2 N2 620 SWAZILAND — History modernoverland.com modernoverland.com History — SWAZILAND 621
HISTORY death in 1865, Swazi reign extended from the the country itself was spared from fighting and rose to power and independence movements Limpopo River in the north to the Pongola River in many Boers and British settlers left Swaziland spread across the continent in the 1960s. As Deep in the Lubombo Mountains that form the south and to the Crocodile River in the west. to fight for colonial powers in the South African the British conceded to the implementation of Swaziland’s eastern border, archaeologists have But the Swazi territorial heyday was short-lived. countryside. In this time of flux, the Swazis had policies to allow for increased independence, found 100,000-year-old, human-like fossils and Mswati had failed to grasp the threat that European a keen leader who was prepared to navigate the King Sobhuza II and his royal council formed the remnants of ancient human inhabitation of the presence posed to his people’s traditional way of country toward long-term independence. Queen region. But the history of the Swazi kingdom is life and did not fully comprehend the colonists’ Regent Labotsibeni, the wife of the late King much more recent and begins with the Nguni- ulterior motives. The Boers, who aimed to Mbandzeni, was widely revered throughout the speaking Bantu migrants who settled around establish their own independent republic apart kingdom. Labotsibeni feared that the new British The Basics present day Maputo, Mozambique in the 1500s. from the British colonial authorities, declared their rulers would not uphold the old system: protection There, they established themselves as the Ngwane own Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR) in 1856. with minimal interference in the local affairs of her Capital - Mbabane (administrative), people and for roughly 200 years, built a kingdom But the early Boer government was weakened by country. She was right – the British administration Lobamba (royal, legislative) along the coast that thrived from heavy commerce ongoing frontier battles and in 1877 the British parceled out land for white settlers and invested Population - 1.3 million and the ever-developing Indian Ocean sea trade. annexed the ZAR. The Swazis saw the British large sums of money into sugar plantations and Language - English, siSwati In the mid-1700s, King Dlamini III led his coup as an opportunity to defeat their own tribal mining in the highveld. Labotsibeni, who had Time Zone - GMT +2 followers over the Lubombo Mountains in search enemies and aligned with the British to subdue watched her late husband concede most of Swazi Borders - South Africa to the north, west and of greener pastures and they settled in the the remaining powerful kingdoms that resisted territory in the prior century, couldn’t bear further south, Mozambique to the east. present-day Shiselweni region and farther south colonial domination. deterioration of Swazi rights. When the 1909 Land Visa - Most foreign nationals do not need to arrange towards the fertile Pongola River Valley. There, the After the First Anglo-Boer War, when the Partition Proclamation officially gave two-thirds of for visas prior to travel. Entrance permits are valid for Ngwane vied for land with other emerging Nguni Boers successfully reclaimed their republic, the Swazi royal land to the white population, reserving 60 days and are available upon arrival for no charge. groups such as the Ndwandwe and the Mthethwa. British and Boer governments signed a peace only one-third for Swazis, Labotsibeni acted. The Money - $1 USD = E7.4, £1 GBP = E11.1, €1 EUR = By the early 1800s, intense warfare overcame the treaty acknowledging Swazi independence, but politically shrewd queen regent knew that she E10, ¥1 JPY = E0.08, R1 ZAR = E1 region and in 1819 the Ngwane were driven farther took away much of the kingdom’s territory. The would not be able to challenge the British militarily. Swazi Lilangeni, or Emalangeni (E) when plural, is north. 1881 treaty established the western and northern So while she petitioned the Crown to restore her pegged to the South African Rand. Most people will The Ngwane reestablished their kingdom in borders of Swaziland and in one fell swoop country’s land rights, she also launched a campaign accept rand bills, but some may not accept rand coins. what today is central Swaziland. Their leader, King signed large tracts of Swazi land that had been that asked Swazis to donate money and cattle in Expect to get change back in Emalangeni. Try not to Subhuza, proved to be a skilled statesman and consolidated throughout the reign of Sobhuza and order to buy back their lost land. Many Swazi men have any Emalangeni upon leaving the country, as it expanded his reign by conquering, incorporating, Mswati II over to the Boer republic. travelled to South Africa to work in the mines to can be very difficult to change it into other currencies and often coexisting with Sotho, Tswana and Nguni These were not the last colonists to plunder raise money for the cause. The campaign proved outside of Swaziland. tribes. These early alliances led to the eventual Swaziland. The discovery of gold in the early successful and was continued by Labotsibeni’s heir, First National Bank, Nedbank, SwaziBank and assimilation of different tribes into the culturally 1880s led to a decade-long flood of European Sobhuza II, and over the next 50 years, the Swazi Standard Bank Swaziland are normally open from 8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri and 8:30am-11am Sat.
diverse Swazi nation. But it was Sobhuza’s son, prospectors into the kingdom hoping to stake their recouped over half of the land that they had lost. SWAZILAND Mswati II, after whom the Swazis were named, who claims. Mswati II’s heir, King Mbandzeni, proved Queen Labotsibeni also knew she had to Tipping 10 percent in restaurants is standard. Tip- possessed the true military might to consolidate less adroit at dealing with European demands and ensure the future of her country by raising a king ping tour guides is common. Tipping taxis not neces- and expand his kingdom to the north and west. was coerced into granting land and prospecting that could keep pace with the agendas of white sary, but appreciated. Swazis first came into contact with British rights to settlers. The land concessions were often foreigners. To do so, she was determined that Phone - Country code + 268. NOTE: As of April 1, 2010 all cell phones changed to a new system, which SWAZILAND missionaries and Boer Voortrekkers in the 1840s, at odds with Swazi customary land usage and her son received a modern education. Against as the Boers expanded across South Africa the influx of settlers proved nearly disastrous for the objections of the Swazi chiefs and the royal requires adding a 7 before the old number. Until April to distance themselves from the British Cape the Swazi kingdom. New European landowners counsel, Labotsbeni established the Swaziland 2010, all cell phone numbers began with 6. Therefore, Colony. While most other kingdoms and tribes in whittled away chiefdom lands and refused to abide National School and future King Sobhuza II was the current format for dialing a cell phone is now: the region attempted to fight off the foreigners by Swazi laws and customs, which undermined one of its first students. Sobhuza II continued his 76XX-XXXX. (Phone numbers in this chapter that through armed conflict, King Mswati treated both King Mbandzeni’s authority. The nearly landless education at the University of Lovedale in South start with +27 are South African). the Boers and the British as allies against rival and broken Swazi monarchy was unable to Africa, where he came in contact with many future Internet - Internet connections in Swaziland tribes, most notably the powerful Zulu kingdom successfully protest when the Boer government South African leaders, and in 1921 he was officially are generally slow. While usually suitable for general to the south. The tactic proved to be to Mswati’s declared Swaziland a ZAR protectorate in 1894. made king. At the time of his crowning, Sobhuza browsing and e-mail, it can be nearly impossible load benefit. Instead of being subjugated or displaced The ZAR took control of the administration and had received more formal education than many photos or videos. by the advancing Boers, the Swazi kingdom protection of the kingdom, though traditional law African leaders of the 1960s. Electricity - 220V/230V AC, 50Hz and three- flourished. King Mswati continued to expand his and custom still nominally governed local affairs. Throughout the first half of the 20th century, the pin plugs are used with round terminals, as in South territorial claims through a series of incursions But things began to turn around for Swazi British never lost the vision that the protectorate Africa. European two-pin round plugs are also north and northeast, like that against Portuguese prospects for independence during the South of Swaziland would one day be incorporated into commonly used. soldiers stationed in Lorenco Marques, in present- African War of 1899-1902. Though the British some sort of union with South Africa. But this Emergency - Police: 999, Fire & Emergency: 933 day Mozambique. By the time of King Mswati II’s victory reestablished colonial control of Swaziland, hope soon faded as the apartheid government 622 SWAZILAND — History modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Climate — SWAZILAND 623
Imbokodvo National Movement (INM), a political the king for political reform and increased party based on traditional Swazi culture that democracy. In 2006, a new constitution came into Mbabane Average Temperatures and Rainfall pledged to maintain the kingdom’s unity. With its effect, but has been criticized by human rights AVG.TEMPS RAINFALL CM IN close ties to the rural heart of the nation, the INM groups as mainly an extenuation of the status quo. 40˚C 100˚F easily secured a majority of the seats of the newly Political parties are still banned and King Mswati 30 12 created Legislative Council in 1964. In an effort to still often rules by decree. In 2007, talks between 90˚F 28 11 the government and progressive groups over the unite with their opposition, the INM incorporated 30˚C 26 10 some of the demands of other political parties constitution and the political future of Swaziland 80˚F 24 9 pushing for modernization and independence. In broke down and it remains to be seen how flexible 22 8 the 1967 elections, the INM won all of the seats King Mswati will be with ongoing demands for 70˚F 20 20˚C in the legislative council. Self-governance was increased political freedom. Complicating the 18 7 secured and on September 6, 1968 Swaziland outlook of the nation is its high level of HIV and 60˚F 16 6 became officially independent. AIDS, which is ravaging the population. Swaziland 14 5 12 Swaziland’s first post-independence elections has the highest HIV/AIDS rate in the world and 10˚C 50˚F 4 10 3 were held in 1972. To the King’s surprise, the traditional practices often come in conflict with 8 40˚F rival Ngwane National Liberatory Congress prevention and treatment efforts. 6 2 (NNLC) won roughly 20 percent of the popular 0˚C 4 1 30˚F vote. In response, King Sobuza II abolished the British-inherited constitution and parliament and JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC banned political parties and trade unions under HIV & AIDS the auspices of removing political practices In recent years, Swaziland’s efforts to curb the spread inconsistent with traditional Swazi life. He created of HIV and AIDS in the country have largely focused a less divisive method of voting conducted by on behavior-changing campaigns and increasing the GEOGRAPHY CLIMATE tinkhundla, or regional councils modeled on the availability of condoms. International funding for royal villages set up by Mswati II during the 1800s. programs geared toward the prevention of mother- Swaziland is entirely landlocked and at 17,364 Drastic changes in altitude cause weather in Political power was consolidated in the monarchy to-child transmission and efforts to stock clinics and square kilometers is one of the smallest countries Swaziland to change rapidly. The highveld and in 1979 a new parliament was convened hospitals with antiretroviral treatments (ARVs) have in the southern hemisphere. The Lubombo has a wetter, temperate climate and can get comprised of individuals appointed by the king or been marginally successful, but limited access to escarpment creates its eastern border with cold, especially at night during June and July. elected through council. clinics in rural areas and the lack of skilled doctors Mozambique, but the kingdom is otherwise Temperatures are highest in the lowveld and At his death in 1982, Sobhuza II was revered as a in the country have undermined progress. Cultural entirely encircled by the Republic of South Africa. can reach up to 40 C/104 F. The middleveld and strong, paternal and trusted king. During his reign, practices are also often at odds with prevention ef- Given its size, Swaziland is remarkably diverse: the Lubombo are drier and subtropical. October
he had recouped lost Swazi land, led the country forts and influential community leaders have been western highveld’s scenic mountains are a stark to May is rainy and warm with occasional heavy SWAZILAND into independence and maintained the unity and criticized for calling condom use “unSwazi.” Further contrast with the populated middleveld in the thunderstorms. June to September is generally cohesion of the country, though at the expense compounding the problem, there is a widespread center of the country and the grassy lowveld to cooler and dry. of political and civil rights. But political unrest and stigma associated with HIV and AIDS, which hin- the east. The country’s an internal power struggle followed the king’s ders testing campaigns. Many Swazis do not want to highest point is Emlembe
SWAZILAND death. The royal council began to undermine the know their status or if they do know, they keep it a at 1,862 m and the lowest authority of the queen regent and underground secret. Only recently have some community leaders is the Great Usutu River at political movements, most notably the People’s agreed to get tested to set a good example for young- just 21 m above sea level. United Democratic Movement (PUDEMO), er generations. emerged to call for democratic reforms and the Many of the country’s behavior-changing cam- abolition of royal rule. It was during this period of paigns have been criticized for focusing mainly on internal turmoil that the relatively unknown King women, implying that they are sexually irresponsible Mswati III returned from his schooling in London and, in essence, blaming them for the spread of the and was installed as king in 1986. Mswati III quickly disease. Having multiple sexual partners is common took steps to strengthen his control and quell throughout Swaziland. King Mswati III also has been opposition. He abolished the royal council and criticized for his disregard for HIV/AIDS preven- in 1987 a new parliament was elected and new tion. In 2001, the king instituted a five-year sex ban cabinet appointed. for teenage women, but undermined the ban less Grassroots opposition to King Mswati III, Africa’s than a year later when he decided to take a 17-year- last absolute monarch, continued throughout the old wife. The ban was rescinded shortly thereafter. 1990s and student and labor movements pressured
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PEOPLE HIV/AIDS in the world. Over a quarter of the adult hold a revered status within the family, but it is population is currently living with HIV or AIDS and the grandmother, or “gogo” who is held in the Swaziland is defined by its citizens. Swazis are demographics for the country are skewed due to Festivals & Public Holidays highest esteem. Most rural compounds will have known for their friendly and welcoming natures, the increased mortality rate from AIDS. A decade 1 January...... New Year's Day a hut reserved for the husband’s mother, whether and are generally warm and down-to-earth. There ago, Swaziland had one of the highest population Late March - Early April. . . Good Friday she lives with him or just occasionally visits. is a strong cultural focus in Swaziland on the growth rates in the world, but now the rate has (Friday before Easter Sunday) Swazi culture is very cordial and proper importance of family and community. slowed dramatically due to the disease’s heavy Late March - Early April. Easter Monday etiquette is important to make a good first Historically speaking, Swazi are descendents of toll and today is just over 1.3 percent. The life 19 April...... King's Birthday impression. Greet people and ask them how they Nguni-speaking Bantu migrants. Their ancestors expectancy for both men and women is as low 25 April...... National Flag Day are doing before launching into any question. were part of the southward expansion from east as 45 years. Because of the epidemic, almost 40 1 May...... Workers Day If you are meeting someone for the first time, central Africa. They are closely allied with the Zulu, percent of the population is under the age of 15. Mid-May...... Ascension Day you should remove your sunglasses so they can Ndebele and other Nguni peoples by culture, Many young children have been orphaned and (celebrated 40 days after Easter Sunday) look into your eyes. This is especially true when language and history, but it was the establishment the traditional Swazi extended family unit is under 22 July...... Public Holiday meeting an elder, as many find it unsettling if they of Swaziland as an independent country that threat. T.B.A August . . . . . Umhlanga Reed Dance Day cannot see the full face of the person they are allowed for the development of their separate 6 September. . . . Independence/ Somhlolo Day talking to. identity. 25 December ...... Christmas Day Though King Mswati III is a controversial figure The population of Swaziland today is 97 LANGUAGE 26 December ...... Boxing Day and opinions of him vary widely, Swazis are still percent African and 3 percent European. Swazi T.B.A January ...... Incwala Day very loyal to the king and the royal family. As a people make up just over half of the population, English and siSwati are the official languages (depends on the moon) symbol of unity and cohesion in the country, if you with the remaining black population composed of of Swaziland. English is used extensively in ask most people, they will insist that the king is immigrants from other southern African countries government and commerce and English speakers never wrong. If people disagree with government and non-Swazis who assimilated into the kingdom. can easily travel through the country. The majority as consonants. SiSwati has lost all but one of the policies, it is generally blamed on the king’s Swaziland’s educational system is improving of the population uses siSwati every day and in click sound sets. Many Swazis also speak Zulu, royal council or the parliament. It’s advisable to be as the government has begun to introduce free rural areas it is spoken almost exclusively. which is very similar to siSwati. cautious about what you say about the king education, but only two years of primary school SiSwati is a member of the Nguni language publically. were offered free of charge as of 2010. The family, which also includes Xhosa, Zulu and Christianity is the most prevalent religion and country only has one university, the University of Ndebele. Nguni-speaking ancestors came in CULTURE roughly half of the population is Zionist, a Swaziland, and admission is highly competitive. contact with the indigenous Khoisan of southern denomination that blends Christianity and Sadly, Swaziland suffers from the highest rate of Africa and assimilated some of their click sounds Swazi people have the reputation for being some indigenous ancestral worship. The country of the most friendly and hospitable people in remains fairly conservative, much more so in rural southern Africa, and rightfully so. Swazis are areas than in the urban areas. Many in rural areas
proud of their country and most people are happy still don colorful traditional dress, but urbanites SWAZILAND Speak SiSWATi to share their rich culture, traditions and way of life wear western clothing. The easiest way to make friends in Swaziland is to pick with curious foreigners. up a few key words of SiSwati. Swazi culture, heritage and traditions have been carefully guarded throughout the years GOVERNMENT
SWAZILAND Pleasantries and steps have been deliberately undertaken Hello (singular) ...... Sawubona Timing to ensure that modernization occurs in harmony The Kingdom of Swaziland is home to the last Hello (plural) ...... Sanibona Today...... Lamuhla with Swazi tradition. Swazi culture remains one remaining absolute monarch in Africa. The Goodbye (when leaving)...... Sala kahle Yesterday...... Itolo of the most homogenous in southern Africa. But country allows no competing political parties Goodbye (when remaining)...... Hamba kahle Tomorrow...... Kusasa like any country, there is a big difference between – King Mswati III is the sovereign head of the Yes (also informal greeting)...... Yebo urbanized Swazis, which make up a quarter of the government and rules by decree with the advice No...... Cha Necessities population in Mbabane and Manzini, and rural of the queen mother and the royal council. This Please...... Ngiyacela Excuse me...... Lucolo Swazis. is a point of pride for many Swazi citizens, who Thank you...... Ngiyabonga Do you have…?...... Une yini…? Rural life continues on much like it has for believe that the monarchy unifies the country and You’re welcome ...... Wamukelekile I am sorry...... Ngiyacolisa the past few hundred years. People still live in deflects the partisan political conflict that has torn How are you?...... Kunjani? I love you...... Ngiyakutsandza traditional beehive hut structures and maintain neighboring countries apart. I’m fine...... Ngikhona How much…?...... Malini…? tight-knit communities. Family ties are strong and However, the monarchy itself is a complex What’s your name? ...... Ngubani libito lakho Where is…? ...... Uphi …? marriages are used as a form of social cohesion. system because, like all men in Swaziland, King My name is…...... Libitolami ngungu… Where is the bathroom?...... Ikuphi itoilet? Polygamy is the norm and as long as a man can Mswati III is allowed to be polygamous and has 13 I come from...... Ngibuya nga... I don't know ...... Angati afford to sustain his current wives he is free to official wives. Traditionally the king has very little to marry as many women as he pleases. Mothers do with picking his wives or heirs – it is the queen 626 SWAZILAND — Culture modernoverland.com modernoverland.com News & Media — SWAZILAND 627
mother and the royal council who strategically NEWS & MEDIA EATING & DRINKING choose wives from certain clans and powerful families to ensure the cohesion of the empire. From State control of the media is strong and freedom Traditional Swazi staples are maize-based dishes these wives, the next queen mother is also chosen. of expression is severely limited. Criticizing the that commonly include vegetables, meat and The decision is made in secret and only revealed king is strictly forbidden and private publications milk. Maize is most typically eaten as pap (similar upon the death of the king. An intricate hereditary steer clear of anything too political. to porridge or polenta) or samp (boiled cracked system ensures that the monarchical transition Swaziland Discovery (www.welcometoswa corn). The majority of the restaurants geared remains smooth. By law, the king cannot have ziland.com) is Swazi’s official tourist guide with towards tourists, as well as high-end restaurants, siblings, a policy which reduces the potential for some worthwhile articles on Swazi history, are located in Mbabane, the Ezulwini Valley and strife within the royal family. A wife that gives culture and places of interest. You can pick it up Malkerns Valley and serve western dishes as well birth to a daughter or a second child becomes at the Tourism Office in Mbabane. as regional specialties. ineligible to be the next queen mother. The king What’s Happening In Swaziland is a free Nightlife in Mbabane is limited to a few has many wives to increase the chances that one monthly tourist newspaper publication that has locations. Most people head either to Ezulwini of them will give birth to one boy only so that the some local news, along with articles on places to Valley, Malkerns Valley or Manzini for nighttime royal line can continue. go and things to do and many advertisements entertainment. There is no national Swazi beer but The country is divided into four administrative geared toward tourists. It is widely distributed you will find all the common South African made districts: Hhohho (northwest), Lubombo (east), and available in a number of places to eat and beers. Manzini (central-west) and Shiselweni (south). The stay as well as all of the tourist offices. administrative capital is Mbabane, but Lobamba What’s On In Swaziland is another free remains the legislative capital and the seat of the monthly tourist publication with listings for TRANSPORTATION royal house. The royal council is appointed by the accommodation, places to eat and a list of “must king and comprises businessmen, experts and ECONOMY do’s” but it is also choc-full of direct and indirect Visas community leaders who advise the king on his advertisements. Most foreign nationals do not need to arrange decisions. Swaziland's economy is tied to the South African The Times of Swaziland is a privately owned daily for visas prior to travel. Sixty-day tourist visas The country’s legislation is handled by a economy. The Swazi currency, Lilangeni, or newspaper that focuses mainly on news trivia, are available upon arrival for no charge. Visitors bicameral Parliament, or Libandla, that consists Emalangeni (E) when plural, is pegged to the entertainment and sports. wishing to stay more than 60 days must apply of a House of Assembly and a Senate. The House rand, and worker remittances from South Africa The Swazi Observer is the state-run, pro- for a temporary residence permit from the Chief of Assembly has 55 members that are elected by substantially supplement domestically earned government daily newspaper. Immigration Officer in Mbabane ( 404-2941). popular vote and 10 that are appointed by the income. South Africa receives 60 percent of the Swazi TV is state-run and news programs are pro- For a complete list of nationalities exempt from monarch. The Senate is comprised of 30 people, 10 kingdom’s exports and in turn contributes to over government. prior visa requirements see (www.gov.sz/home. of whom are appointed by the House of Assembly 90 percent of its imports. Natural resources of Swaziland Broadcasting and Information asp?pid=1309).
and 20 who are appointed by the monarch. The asbestos, coal, clay and hydropower as well as small Service is also state-run and operates all radio SWAZILAND affairs of the country are administered by the gold and diamond deposits are supplemented by stations except Christian radio. Air Prime Minister, who is appointed by the monarch its agricultural moneymakers of sugarcane, cotton, Trans World Radio is a US-based Christian Matsapha International Airport (S 26 31.278 E from among the elected members of the House corn, tobacco, citrus and sorghum. It is also widely evangelical station that broadcasts regionally. 031 18.876, Matsapha, Manzini), located just 5 km of Assembly. known that marijuana is a large income generator
SWAZILAND While Swaziland’s government system is for the country. Industry and manufacturing highly developed, the monarchy isn’t without its has diversified since the mid-1980s and today SLEEPING controversies. King Mswati III has been accused of consist of soft drink concentrates, sugar and Swaziland Border Hours living an overly lavish lifestyle – The New York Times wood pulp. Swaziland is heavily dependent Accommodation geared towards tourists is located Oshoek-Ngwenya...... 7am-10pm has reported that each of his wives has a retinue, a on imports for foodstuffs, cars, machinery, in Ezulwini Valley and Malkerns Valley, as well as in Nerston-Sandlane...... 8am-6pm palace and a new BMW and that tens of millions of transport equipment, and petroleum. Mining, national parks and game reserves throughout the Houdkop-Sicunusa...... 8am-6pm dollars are set aside from the government’s budget though historically a mainstay of the country’s country. Bothashoop-Gege...... 8am-4pm for the king’s allowance. Meanwhile, the king has economy, has declined in importance in recent There are a handful of backpackers in the Mahamba-Mahamba...... 7am-10pm publically declared the state too poor to provide years but coal mines and stone quarries remain country, numerous mid-range options as well as Onverwacht-Salitje...... 8am-4pm regular antiretroviral (ARV) medications or full active. Tourism and the service sector are still the high-end hotels primarily managed by the South Golela-Lavumisa...... 7am-10pm free education for its citizens. Nevertheless, King biggest economic generators of the country and African chain Sun International. Bordergate-Mananga...... 7am-6pm Mswati III maintains a tight grip on his kingdom. A contribute to almost half of the country’s GDP, Camping is common at backpackers and at Jeppe’s Reef-Matsamo...... 7am-8pm new constitution, which came into effect in 2006, which stood at $2,200 USD per capita (nominal) national parks and private game reserves. When Josefdal-Bulembu...... 8am-4pm reinforced the scope of the king’s power and in 2009. Roughly 70 percent of the population camping in rural areas, make sure to check with Namaacha-Lomahasha...... 7am-8pm continued the ban on all political parties, ensuring lives below the poverty line and survives on the village chief before pitching a tent near a Mhlumeni-Goba...... 7am-8pm that the Swazi monarchy will live on for some time. subsistence agriculture alone. village. 628 SWAZILAND — Transportation modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Mbabane — SWAZILAND 629
west of Manzini, is the only international airport in Minibus Taxis of condoms by branding them “Love Condoms.” Families the country. Be prepared to pay an airport tax of A network of minibus taxis is the most common Condoms are also distributed by the Baz Bus Swaziland’s relaxed atmosphere makes it a good E50 upon departure. method of transportation within the country and company and available for free at almost all family destination. Many hotels offer family- Swaziland Airlink ( 518-6155, www.flyairlink. to nearby cities in South Africa. They congregate backpackers in the country. friendly accommodation. Note that malaria can com) has multiple flights a day to and from at minibus taxi ranks in towns throughout the be a serious risk for small children. Johannesburg. county and leave as soon as they fill up with Hospitals Pharmacies, baby food and diapers are readily passengers. Larger buses also depart from some There are medical facilities in Mbabane and available in Mbabane and Manzini, but smaller Car Rental of the minibus taxi ranks and head to many of the Manzini, but if you need serious medical towns are less stocked. Make sure you have The road system in the country is very good mid-sized towns in the country, but they tend to treatment you are better off going to South Africa. everything you need before leaving the larger and easy to navigate. All major roads are tarred operate on less frequent schedules. If you do need to go to a hospital in Swaziland cities. and getting around in a car is a great way to your best bet is to go to the private Mbabane experience the country. Clinic (S 26 19.688 E 031 08.073, Emajika Rd, Disabled Travelers Affordable Car Hire (S 26 19.605 E 031 08.516, HEALTH, SAFETY & SECURITY 404-2423). Swaziland facilities for people with disabilities Kiosk No. 4, Standard Bank Building, Swazi Plaza, are few and far between. Most public transport, 404-9136, [email protected]) rents small Immunizations & Disease Water accommodation and restaurants do not cater cars and 4x4s. In addition to being up to date with routine All cities have treated drinking water and tap water to those with special needs. Relying on public Avis (S 26 31.278 E 031 18.876, Matsapha vaccinations such as, measles/mumps/rubella is generally safe to drink. In rural areas it is advised transport to get around is not advisable. Airport, Manzini, 518-6226 www.avis.co.za) has a (MMR), diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT) and that you drink only bottled or boiled water. rental car desk at the Matsapha Airport. polio, the US Centers for Disease Control – CDC (wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/) recommends Crime Bus that travelers to Swaziland receive the following Swaziland has a lower crime rate than most southern MBABANE GPS: S 26 19.585 E 031 08.651 Translux ( +27-86-158-9282, www.translux.co.za) vaccinations: hepatitis A, hepatitis B, typhoid and African countries, but it is still high relative to pop. 95,000 | elevation 1,160 m/3,806 ft runs City-to-City services to Swaziland from other rabies (for individuals with a high risk of exposure). developed nations. Incidents of petty street crime major cities in the region. In addition to the above vaccines it is important that and occasional violent crime are most prevalent Mbabane (pronounced mm-buh-ban) is the Baz Bus ( +27-21-439-2323, www.bazbus.com) you discuss with your doctor where you intend to in Mbabane and Manzini. Walking around either Kingdom’s capital city. Many visitors pass through stops in backpackers in Mbabane as well as in travel within Swaziland and the risks of contracting city at night is not recommended. Most crimes Mbabane after entering through Swaziland’s Ezulwini Valley and Malkerns Valley. malaria (generally present in the northern and against tourist are opportunistic and ot the extent nearby main border post at Oshoek-Ngwenya. TransMagnific ( 404-9977, www.goswaziland. eastern areas bordering Mozambique and South possible it is a good idea to avoid wearing or The city has a nice choice of hotels, restaurants co.sz) is a more comfortable set-schedule mini- Africa, including the entire Lubombo district) displaying expensive possessions. and shopping malls, but if you plan to be in bus option and provides transport to and from as well as the appropriate antimalarial drug if For tips on staying safe, check out Safety Tips the area for a few days, it is worth your while to Mbabane daily. Stops include the Johannesburg determined necessary. on p60. continue another 15 minutes to stay in the lovely
OR Tambo Airport, Kruger National Park (Crocodile Although yellow fever is not a disease risk in region of Ezulwini Valley and Malkerns Valley. SWAZILAND Gate) and the Nelspruit Riverside Mall. You must Swaziland, the government requires travelers Police ( 999) book and pay at least a day in advance. Drinks, arriving from countries where yellow fever is Fire & Emergency ( 933) snacks and a movie are included. present to show proof of a yellow fever vaccination. TOURIST INFORMATION Swaziland has the highest HIV/AIDS rate in the
SWAZILAND world. Over 26 percent of the adult population is SPECIALIZED TRAVEL NEEDS Tourist Information (S 26 19.706 E 031 08.338, living with HIV. The government has introduced Cooper Center, Sozisa Rd, 404-2531, 8am-5pm a number of HIV prevention initiatives, including Women Mon-Thu, 8am-4pm Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) has the condom distribution, behavior change campaigns It is not unsafe for women to travel alone in Swaziland Discovery, Community Tourism Guide, and prevention of mother-to-child transmission. Swaziland, but like anywhere else, women by and a free map of Swaziland, Mbabane and Manzini. Although condoms are widely distributed, their themselves should be more careful. Though there The office recently moved from its previously more use still remains unpopular and controversial. are many friendly faces, it’s not a good idea to convenient location in the Swazi Plaza to its new A 2008 Swazi government report indicated that accept rides from men you are not acquainted with. digs next to the Engen filling station. roughly half of the adult population had admitted Women visiting villages and rural areas are to having non-regular sex without condoms. advised to wear a long skirt or full-length dress. It Influential community leaders have undermined is not inappropriate to wear pants, but the effort Money some of their own initiatives, calling condom use to respect cultural norms is appreciated and you “unSwazi.” will be received more warmly. Sitting properly Standard Bank (S 26 19.605 E 031 08.516, In 2009 the AIDS Healthcare Foundation (with your legs together) is also strongly advised as Swazi Plaza, Commercial Rd) has ATMs and launched a free condom and HIV testing sitting otherwise is considered offensive and may foreign exchange. There is also a Nedbank campaign in Manzini, hoping to popularize the use give people an unsavory impression of you. branch in the same mall. 630 SWAZILAND — Mbabane Map modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Mbabane — SWAZILAND 631
art supplies and frames in rooms throughout a 1 28 3 4 Internet converted house with a garden restaurant in the Compu Shop (S 26 19.590 E 031 08.430, The back. Every Wednesday there is a big braai. Mall, Commercial Rd, 404-8545, 8am-6pm Mon- A Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, E15/30min) has 20 computers 500ft for Internet use but does not allow you to plug Embassies / Consulates 200m in your laptop. It is located inside The Mall next
Coronation GWAMILE ST Park to the Spar. Danish Consulate (Sokhamlilo Building, cnr Swazinet (S 26 19.605 E 031 08.516, Swazi Plaza, Johnson St & Walker St, Mbabane, 404-3547). Commercial Rd, 405-2437, www.swazi.net, 8am- Dutch Consulate (Furnishers Building, Siguca St, 6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, E15/25min) has 22 Mbabane, 404-5178). SOMHLOLO RD computers but also does not allow you to connect Mozambican Consulate (Highlands View, M A
N 2DZELWET ST D a laptop. Princess Drive Rd, Mbabane, 404-3700). E LA S D Taiwanese Embassy (Makhosikhosi St, Mbabane, T R
B B E
SO N 404-4739). M A
HLO 9 J L N
O R I L USA Embassy
HOWE ST D Shopping (Central Bank Building, Warner St, O P
POST ST ZWIDE ST Mbabane, 404-6441). MBHILIBHI STSHEILD ST Swazi Plaza (S 26 19.605 E 031 08.516, Commercial Rd) is the largest mall in Mbabane MVEMVE ST SMUTS ST with supermarkets, department stores, Police & Medical LIBLANDA ST restaurants, bars, an Internet café, a Royal Swazi DR E MHLONHLO ST SID D 10 IVER I R Air office and much more. Police ( 999) R AV 7 C H C IS Bus The Mall (S 26 19.590 E 031 08.430, Commercial Fire & Emergency ( 933) r S Station e 13 12 iv R Rd) is located just across the street from Swazi Mbabane Clinic (S 26 19.703 E 031 08.080, R D MSUNDUSA ST e an Plaza and also has supermarkets, department Mkhonubovu Rd, 404 2423) is a small private ab T 3 b S M NORTWEST TO 4 A stores, restaurants and a coffee shop. clinic and the best place to go if you need medical
Oshoek 5 Z
A treatment in Swaziland.
Border L Swazi Market (S 26 19.621 E 031 08.633, P
Checkpoint Mba L b ) an Msundusa St) is a maze of both indoor and L D SHEFFIELD ST e R R 6 A SS i 1 PA v outdoor shops selling fruits and veggies, crafts, M BY e SOZIS NE r A RD (MBABA traditional medicine and second-hand clothes. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES D D There is also a kitchen area that prepares local SIGUCA CRES
meals on the cheap. Sibebe Rock (S 26 15.605 E 031 09.966, SWAZILAND RD W TU 11 SU E Indingilizi (S 26 19.284 E 031 08.650, 112 Dzeliwe Pine Valley Rd) is the world’s largest exposed U S T E St, 404-6213, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1pm granite dome and is some 3 billion years old. It R N Sat) has an interesting mix of crafts, paintings, is an impressive sight to see and an even more D I S T impressive climb – especially if you go straight up R I B SWAZILAND MBABANE the face. U
T TOURIST INFO SLEEPING O Swazi Trails ( 416-2180, www. R Tourist Info. Office...... 1 D2 City Inn Hotel...... 7 C2 R swazitrails.co.sz, 8am-5pm) is Sunset Backpackers Lodge. 8 A2 D E MONEY Thokoza Anglican Center... 9 B3 the main adventure activity Standard Bank...... (see 4) operator in the country EATING INTERNET Finesse Restaurant & Bar.... (see 5) Compu Shop...... (see 5) Hwa Li Restaurant...... 10 C3 Swazinet...... (see 4) Indingilizi...... (see 2) Phoenix Restaurant...... (see 5) SHOPPING Plaza Tandoori Restaurant.(see 4) Indingilizi...... 2 B2 Swazi Market...... 3 C3 DRINKING & ENT. SOUTH TO Swazi Plaza...... 4 C2 Café Lingo...... 11 D1 Matsapha Airport, The Mall...... 5 C2 Jazz Friends...... 12 C2 Ezulwini Valley, Manzini Moon Light Pub & Rest...... (see 4) F POLICE & MEDICAL Mbabane Clinic...... 6 D1 TRANSPORTATION Affordable Car Hire...... (see 4) Bus Station & Minibus Taxi Rank...... 13 C2 3 4 632 SWAZILAND — Mbabane modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Mbabane — SWAZILAND 633
The Incwala and Umhlanga Ceremonies
INCWALA The first fruits or kinship ceremony, known as Incwala, is the most sacred of all Swazi rituals. The annual event usually occurs at the end of December or early January on a date selected by a group of royal astrologers that coincides with the new moon. Preparations begin a month preceding the ceremony, when the Bemanti (people of the water) begin their trek across land to the coastal homelands of the Ngwane ancestors to collect water from the Indian Ocean. The Bemanti arrive at the royal village along with the new moon, and the Little Incwala, or the beginning of the ceremony, commences with song, dance and rituals. The Big Incwala begins at the full moon, when male youths throughout the nation gather at the royal residence and then fan out into the surrounding area to gather the sacred branches of the lusekwane shrub under the light of the full moon. The youths bring the branches back to the royal residence to be used in building a ceremonial kraal, or circular compound. If the leaves on the branches that a youth is carrying have wilted by the time he returns to the royal residence, it is said to be a sign that he has had illicit sex. and leads steep, vertical hikes up Sibebe Rock for SLEEPING The king, warriors and youths gather and sing songs only allowed to be sung during the Incwala ceremony. On the those interested. To get to the rock, head out of third day, the youths slaughter a bull in a ritual ceremony that is supposed to instill solidarity and valor among them. town on Gwamile St, which turns into Fonteyn St. Mbabane is a little light on accommodation The fourth day is the main day of the ceremony, in which the king and his warriors appear in their full battle attire and Follow the signs to Sibebe Hiking Trails on Pine geared toward tourists. Many better options exist perform the traditional Incwala dance. The king then enters a spiritual hut within the enclosure where further rituals are Valley Rd and you will pass the huge rock on your in Ezulwini and Malkerns Valley just 15-20 km away. performed, culminating in the king eating the first fruits of the season. Afterwards, he makes an appearance before his people, right. signaling that they may also eat the new fruits with the blessings of their ancestors. A day of abstinence follows. The Sibebe Hiking Trails (S 26 13.950 E 031 11.056, Budget ceremony concludes when a large bonfire is lit within the kraal and ceremonial objects representing the previous year are 404-6070, 8am-5pm, E50) is a community-run Sunset Backpackers Lodge (S 26 18.849 E 031 tossed into the fire amidst celebratory dancing and singing. The majority of the ceremony is open to all Swazis and outsiders, hiking trail that passes through private rural land 08.443, 18 Mabandla St, 7675-2828, www.sun with the exception of a few private ceremonies. around the Sibebe Rock. The paths go through setbackpackers.com, camping E60, dm E120, s traditional rural villages, past caves and waterfalls E150, d E250) is the closest you’ll get to a traditional Umhlanga and you can cool off in stream-fed swimming holes. backpackers in Mbabane with a central lounge area The Umhlanga, or reed dance, is a week-long annual ceremony held at the end of August or early September, in which tens There are two entrances to the network of hiking inside and braai pit outside. The dorms are on the of thousands of unmarried and childless Swazi girls and women travel from their villages and gather at the queen mother’s trails. The Mbuluzi entrance near Mbabane is the top level of a thatched roof building and they’ve royal village in Ludzidzini. The day after arriving at the residence, the women disperse to surrounding areas and cut tall reeds, main entrance, where you can pay the entrance fee, packed 14 bunk beds into one room like sardines. which they bring back to the queen mother to be used in repairing holes in the reed windscreen that surrounds the royal get maps of the trails, and leave your vehicle while It is located about 1 km from the downtown area. village. After a day of rest and washing, the women prepare their traditional costumes - a bead necklace, rattling anklets made you hike. The Nsukumbili entrance, which is reached Thokoza Anglican Center (S 26 19.226 E 031
from cocoons, a sash and skirt. Many of them carry the bush knife they used to cut the reeds as a symbol of their virginity. from Ezulwini, is built but as of late 2010 was not yet 08.819, Polinjane Rd, 404-6681, thokozacc@ SWAZILAND Today's reed dance ceremony originates from the Umcwasho custom where young girls were placed in age regiments to functioning with staff. africaonline.co.sz, s E200-240, d E240-280, ensure their virginity. Once they reached a marriageable age, they would perform labor for the queen mother, followed by breakfast included) has basic clean bleach-scented dancing and a feast. The official purpose of the annual ceremony is to preserve the women's chastity, provide tribute labor for rooms and facilities in buildings around the church the queen mother, and create solidarity among the women through collaborative work. However many people, including some Tours grounds. There isn’t much to do at the Anglican
SWAZILAND of the women participating in the ceremony, believe that King Mswati uses the reed dance ceremony to look for his next wife. center aside from attending church services. It is The sixth and seventh day are main events of the ceremony, when the women can be seen offering their reeds to the queen, Ekhaya Tours ( 7644-3257, www. within walking distance to the shopping centers then singing as they parade in front of the royal family and crowds of Swazi spectators and foreign dignitaries. After the parade, ekhayatours.com) has been running tour and downtown area. groups from select villages take to the center of the field and perform special dances for the crowd. The king's many daughters operations for visiting guest for a number of also participate in the Umhlanga ceremony and can be distinguished by the crown of red feathers in their hair. years. Mandla can arrange everything from Mid-range meeting you are the border or airport and putting Hwane Resort (S 26 12.792 E 031 04.199, 7627- together a multi-day itinerary to a day trip into the 6714, www.hawane.co.sz, dm E115, chalets: s countryside villages. He also speaks French. E605, d E920, breakfast included) has horseback Woza Nawe Cultural Tours ( 7604- riding, quad bikes, kayaks, hiking trails, fishing, a 4102, www.swaziculturaltours.com) offers tours of swimming pool and a large restaurant. Choose rural Swazi village life and home stays. This is one from accommodation in thatched roof chalets of the best ways to experience rural Swaziland and with feather pillows and floor-to-ceiling windows its amazing people. In addition to the established or a former horse barn converted into 11 dorm Cultural Tour and Community Stay, your host rooms with a self-catering kitchen. To get here Myxo can tailor a tour to fit your interests and time from Mbabane, take Sozisa Rd northwest to the frame. MR3, turn right onto the Piggs Peak Rd/MR1. 634 SWAZILAND — Mbabane modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Ezulwini Valley — SWAZILAND 635
Head north 4.1 km where you will see a signed might take a few minutes to get your food, as it is turnoff onto a dirt road. Continue following signs all prepared to order. on the dirt road for 1.4 km to the resort. Hwa Li Restaurant (S 26 19.488 E 031 08.759, City Inn Hotel (S 26 19.520 E 031 08.636, Dlan‘ubeka House, cnr Mdada St & Lalufadlana St, Gwamile St, 404-2406, www.cityinn.sz, s E400, d 404-5986, mains E40-70) serves typical Chinese E500, secure parking) is centrally located on the food; spring rolls, pork fried rice, chicken chow main drag and has standard hotel rooms with mein and sweet & sour beef. comfortable beds and large bathrooms. There is also a restaurant (7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm Sun) attached to the hotel. DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Café Lingo (S 26 19.828 E 031 08.360, New EATING Public Pension Fund Building, Mhlambanyatsi Rd, 404-1479, [email protected], 7am- late Finesse Restaurant & Bar (S 26 19.590 E 031 Mon-Sat, mains E45-85) is a newly opened 08.430, The Mall, Commercial Rd, 404-5936, restaurant and café by day serving salads, pizza 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, bar 3pm-late Mon-Sat, and fresh squeezed juice and a wine and cocktail mains E60-110) has a cozy atmosphere with an lounge by night. Café Lingo attracts a smart crowd open wood-burning stove that heats the inside. at night that tends toward conversation over a The large outdoor seating area is popular during glass of wine or a few cocktails while a mix of Shopping Center, MR103) is located in the Gables the day. Their menu offers a good selection of international music plays in the background. EZULWINI VALLEY Shopping Center and has ATMs. There is also GPS: S 26 26.375 E 031 11.293 meat, fish, prawns, curries and vegetarian options. Jazz Friends (S 26 19.559 E 031 08.643, Gwamile an FNB ATM and a Standard Bank ATM in the elevation 714 m/2,343 ft Attached next door is a small but equally cozy bar. St, 404-8684, 10am-late, cover on wkend) is shopping center. Phoenix Restaurant (S 26 19.590 E 031 08.430, a happening place in town with an occasional Ezulwini Valley (Place of Heaven) is the heart The Mall, Commercial Rd, 404-9103, 9am-11pm delay for some at the door – tourists generally get of Swaziland and the country’s top tourist Sun-Thu, 9am-12am Fri-Sat, mains E40-85) is a waived right in. Inside there are a few tables and destination. The valley spans from the Internet reasonably priced restaurant that is packed on some floor space to move with the beat from the administrative capital Mbabane to the legislative weekends. Patrons pile into booths and can watch DJ spinning on the balcony above. capital of Lobamba, where the royal family Quarterman’s Restaurant (S 26 26.339 E 031 their food being prepared in an open kitchen. Moon Light Pub & Restaurant (S 26 19.605 E 031 lives. But it is also host to great natural wonders 11.240, Gables Shopping Center, MR103, E25/hr) Steak and ribs dominate the menu, but burgers, 08.516, Swazi Plaza, 7668-8145, 9am-late) is a gay including a hot springs, waterfall and one of has wifi. sandwiches and a number of Mexican dishes are bar but frequented by just as many merrymakers the country’s most popular parks, the Mlilwane The Friendly Whistle (S 26 26.410 E 031 11.258,
also on offer. from the hetero crowd. It is packed on weekends Wildlife Sanctuary. Travelers who come to enjoy Gables Shopping Center, MR103, 8am-6pm Mon- SWAZILAND eDladleni (S 26 22.355 E 031 09.283, off MR3, with a DJ and there is an attached sit-down or take the valley’s great sights will have their choice Fri, 8am-3pm Sat-Sun, 416-1610, E1/min) is an 404-5743, [email protected], 12pm-late, away restaurant next door (8am-9:30pm, mains of wonderful restaurant and accommodation Internet café with five computers; they do not mains E55-80) is another member of the slow food E20-25) that serves up premade dishes of chicken options during their stay. allow laptops to be connected. movement and serves up great traditional Swazi or beef curry and chicken or beef chow mein.
SWAZILAND meals made from meat and produce sourced locally within Swaziland. There are a handful of TOURIST INFORMATION Shopping vegetarian options as well as specialties including TRANSPORTATION rabbit, impala, and guinea fowl. Tourist Information Office (S 26 26.386 E 031 Gables Shopping Center (S 26 26.364 E 031 Indingilizi (S 26 19.284 E 031 08.650, 112 Dzeliwe Car Rental 10.998, 416-2180, www.swazi.travel, 8am-5pm) 11.243, MR103) is a more recently built collection St, 404-6213, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am- Affordable Car Hire (S 26 19.605 E 031 08.516, is privately run by Swazi Trails and offers free maps of restaurants, shops and a large Pick 'n Pay. 1pm Sat, mains E30-50) has a courtyard garden Standard Bank Building, Swazi Plaza, Commercial and can assist in providing area information. They Mantenga Craft Center (S 26 26.386 E 031 restaurant in the back of the art gallery. They Rd, 404-9136, [email protected]) rents can also help out with booking accommodation 10.998, off MR103, 8am-5pm) is a collection of serve traditional meals such as peri peri chicken small cars and 4x4s. for the Mantenga, Malolotja, and Mlawula Nature shops selling jewelry, hand-woven tapestries and livers as well as steaks, curries and quiche. Every Reserves in addition to all of their adventure woodcrafts with a tea garden and coffee shop. Wednesday there is a big braai. Bus & Minibus Taxi activities. Ezulwini Craft Market (S 26 24.974 E 031 Plaza Tandoori Restaurant & Take Away (S 26 Bus Station & Minibus Taxi Rank (S 26 19.555 E 10.676, off MR103) recently moved into their new 19.605 E 031 08.516, Swazi Plaza, Commercial Rd, 031 08.493, Commercial Rd) is located downtown concrete digs from the old wood stalls across the 404-7599, 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun, next to the Swazi Plaza. From here you can get Money street. There are rows and rows of craft stalls mains E35-70) serves up steak, curries, burgers transport to major cities in Swaziland as well as selling almost any African craft you can imagine. and milkshakes and a good English breakfast. It nearby cities in South Africa. Nedbank (S 26 26.364 E 031 11.243, Gables Guava Café and Gallery (S 26 26.640 E 031 636 SWAZILAND — Ezulwini & Malkerns Valley Map modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Ezulwini Valley — SWAZILAND 637
MR103 10.649, 416-1343, [email protected], long-term basis both locally and in South Africa, 1 2 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) is a café and Botswana and Mozambique. MR3 EZULWINI & MALKERNS VALLEY 27 gallery that sells paintings, crafts, clothing and a 25 TOURIST INFO SLEEPING large selection of jewelry. Swazi Trails...... (see 4) Legends Backpackers...... 12 C1 10 Tourist Information Office...... (see 15) Lidwala Backpacker Lodge...... 13 B1 SLEEPING A Lugogo Sun Hotel...... 14 A1 MONEY Malandela’s B&B...... 15 E3 Nedbank...... (see 2) Mantenga Lodge...... 16 C1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Budget 21 Standard Bank ATM...... (see 5) Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary Main Camp...... 17 E1 Lidwala Backpacker Lodge (S 26 25.455 E 14 INTERNET Nyanza B&B...... 18 F3 Rainbird Chalets B&B...... 19 F3 Cuddle Puddle at the Swaziland Spa (S 26 031 10.675, MR103, 550-4951, www.lidwala. 22 The Friendly Whistle...... (see 2) Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge...... 20 D1 24.142 E 031 10.499, MR103, 416-1164, health co.sz, camping E60, dm E100, d E250, Baz Bus) is Quarterman’s Restaurant...... (see 2) Royal Swazi Spa Hotel...... 21 A1 1 Ziggy’s Internet Café...... (see 15) Royal Villas...... 22 B2 studio 10am-6pm, hot spring until 11pm except nestled away from the road behind large boulders MR103 Sondzela Backpackers Lodge... 23 E2 MR3 SHOPPING Swaziland Backpackers...... 24 F4 8pm on Wed) is a hot spring-fed pool (E10) for and trees. It’s a chill backpackers without a bar, so Ezulwini Craft Market...... 1 B1 Timbali Lodge...... 25 A1 both men and women (bathing suits required). if you want a sundowner, you’ll have to bring your 28 Gables Shopping Center...... 2 C2 Willow Lodge...... 26 E2 13 B Gone Rural...... (see 15) The studio offers a variety of services including a own. There are a few dorms in the cozy quarters Guava Café and Gallery...... 3 C1 EATING Mantega Craft Center...... 4 C1 Swedish message (E200/30min), facials (E250) and of the main house and the rest are four-person Shoprite Shopping Center...... 5 F2 Boma Restaurant...... (see 25) manicures (E180). dorms set up in permanent safari tents nearby. Swazi Candle Crafts Center..... 6 F2 Calabash Restaurant...... 27 A1 Great Taipei Chinese Rest...... (see 2) Natural Hot Springs (S 26 24.142 E 031 Hang out on the deck in front of the lodge or SIGHTS & activities Guava Café and Gallery...... (see 3) Malandela’s Restaurant...... (see 15) 10.499, MR103, men only, clothing optional) are swing in the hammocks; there is also a fire pit and 29 All Out Africa...... (see 13) Quarterman’s Restaurant & Pub (see 2) 12 2 Mantenga Cultural Village...... 7 C1 undeveloped hot spring-fed pools surrounded by braai area. 30 Woodlands Restaurant...... 28 B1 16 4 Natural Hot Springs...... (see 10) a bamboo fence. This is where local men come Legends Backpackers (S 26 26.357 E 031 10.998, 3 Nyanza Horse Trails...... (see 18 ) DRINKING & ENT. 7 MR103 Royal Kraal...... 8 D2 House On Fire...... (see 15) to relax in the hot springs, just next door to the off MR103 opposite Mantenga Crafts, 416-1870 9 Swazi Trails...... (see 4) Swaziland National Museum... 9 C2 Ka-Lohheya Pub...... 29 C2 commercialized Cuddle Puddle. or 7602-0261, camping E45/person, dm E90, d C Swaziland Spa...... MR310 A1 Why Not / If Not...... 30 C2 Under African Skies Baobab Mantenga Cultural Village (S 26 26.653 E 031 E220, Baz Bus, Internet) is a clean place to stay Batik...... 11 E2 10.470, Mantega Nature Reserve, 7:30am-4pm, and is in a good location for those on foot, given performances at 10:30am and 3:30pm) can take its proximity to nearby venues, activities and the MR103 from where you can catch a minibus. But 8 you on a cultural village guided tour (E130) to get a glimpse of the traditional Swaziland way the backpackers is in need of a little TLC. Its once of life and hike to Mantenga Falls. You can enter popular “shebeen bar” that attracted some of the Mantenga Nature Reserve (E50) without the the party crowd is no longer operating due to cultural village tour if you want to hike to the equipment breakdown. waterfall on your own. D 20
MR103 Swaziland National Museum (S 26 26.815 E 031 Mid-range SWAZILAND MR3 Mlilwane 12.432, 416-1516, 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am- Mantenga Lodge (S 26 26.455 E 031 10.882, Wildlife Sanctuary 4pm Sat-Sun, entrance E20) has displays on the 416-1049, www.swaziplace.com/mantengalodge, prehistory of the area and the culture and national s E430-500, d E570-670, Internet/wifi, swimming history of Swaziland. There is also an exhibit of pool) has standard and executive rooms with TV,
SWAZILAND King Mswati III’s car collection. AC and great views of the mountains and 17 Swazi Trails (S 26 26.386 E 031 10.998, Mantenga valley. The lodge has a bar and restaurant (6:30am- Craft Center, 416-2180, www.swazitrails.co.sz, 9:30pm, mains E50-100) with a large deck and 23 E 15 8am-5pm) is the leading tour and adventure view of Nyonyane Mountain or “Execution Rock.”
11 MR27 activity company in Swaziland. It offers cultural The lodge borders a wildlife reserve and monkeys tours, wildlife sightseeing and adventure activities frequently roam the grounds. 26 including whitewater rafting down the Usuthu Timbali Lodge (S 26 23.793 E 031 10.340, 24 River (see p640), caving, quad biking, canoeing Nyonyane Rd, 416-2632, www.timbalilodge. MR103 and mountain biking. co.sz, camping E70, s E640-720, d E790-920 18 All Out Africa (S 25 26.448 E 031 breakfast included, wifi, swimming pool) has a 10.675, MR103, 7602-3694 or 528-3423, www. main thatched roof lodge that houses a bar and alloutafrica.com) does everything from wildlife the Boma Restaurant (12pm-10pm, mains E40- MR27 19 F conservation and community projects to all- 100), which is worth coming to even if you are inclusive wildlife tours and expeditions. They offer not staying at Timbali. Outside of the lodge is
2mi numerous social, humanitarian or conservation a spanking clean swimming pool and 30 chalets 2km 5 volunteer opportunities that can be on a short or spread throughout the premises. 26 3 4 638 SWAZILAND — Ezulwini modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Mlilwane — SWAZILAND 639
Top end 10.697, MR103, 416-3466 or 416-2084, 7am- 031 11.707, 528-3943, www.biggameparks. Lugogo Sun Hotel (S 26 24.569 E 031 10.416, 11pm, mains E80-115) is cozy, with a burning MLILWANE org, camping E45/person, dm E80, s E155-170, WILDLIFE SANCTUARY MR103, 416-4500, www.suninternational.com, s fireplace in the evenings. Woodlands participates d E220-240, swimming pool, shuttle to Baz Bus) GPS: S 26 28.768 E 031 11.665 E1,485, d E1,590, swimming pool) is a 200-room 3-star in the slow food movement – the meat and is a backpackers paradise situated in the middle elevation 720 m/2,362 ft South African chain hotel with a large swimming pool vegetables are sourced locally in Ezulwini Valley of the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary where you and nearby outdoor bar. This is a place that caters and the meals are delicious. There is also a good Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary (main entrance can lounge in hammocks by the swimming pool to the budget businessperson and families with kids. selection of desserts. gate S 26 28.768 E 031 11.665, 6am-6pm, day or sit around the large fire pit and braai in the The rooms are pleasant and large. Boma Restaurant (S 26 23.793 E 031 10.340, visitors E25) was the first private reserve established evening. Breakfast and traditional Swazi dinners Royal Swazi Spa Hotel & Country Club (S 26 Timbali Lodge, Nyonyane Rd, 416-2632, www. in Swaziland by conservationist Ted Reilly, who are available. While this setting is tough to beat, 24.505 E031 10.176, MR103, 416-5000, www. timbalilodge.co.sz, 12pm-10pm, mains E40-100) donated his 5 square kilometer farm to establish Sondzela is run by Big Game Parks staff that tend suninternational.com, s from E2,355, d from is a tall thatched roof circular restaurant at the the wildlife sanctuary in 1961 out of concern for the to be a bit less friendly than what you would E2,480, royal suite E4,550, wifi, swimming pool) is Timbali Lodge. They have a full menu but their disappearing wildlife in the area. Once established, usually find at a backpackers. Fortunately, there one of the best hotels in the country, rated 5-stars specialty is their pizzas made in their imported the reserve was stocked with animals – partially from is generally a good mix of guests staying here, and run by South African Sun International. The Italian wood burning clay oven. They also have a His Majesty’s wildlife stock in Hlane. The reserve’s which makes for an enjoyable atmosphere. hotel sparkles with fine detail and sports an array of large selection of wine. name means “little fire” which is derived from sumptuous amenities, including two restaurants, Guava Café and Gallery (S 26 26.640 E 031 10.649, numerous area fires started by lightning strikes. Mid-range a sports bar, business center, swimming pool, 416-1343, [email protected], 9am-5pm Mlilwane is known for its variety of bird life, and Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary Main Camp (S 26 casino and a beautiful 18-hole golf course. Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, snacks and light meals sightings of fish eagle, purple-crested lourie and at 29.552 E 031 11.154, 528-3943, camping E60, Royal Villas (S 26 24.777 E 031 11.191, Nshakabili E30-60) is a café and gallery that sells paintings, least three species of robins are common. But the beehive huts: s E315, d E450, Internet, swimming Rd, 416-7035, www.royalvillasswaziland.com, crafts, clothing and a large selection of jewelry. The reserve isn’t just for bird lovers - there are also plenty pool) is a large facility with “villages” of beehive room E1,000-1,525, 4-room villa E5,000, wifi, café has a great mountainside view and serves up of warthog and even hippos and giraffe. huts surrounding the main camp, where animals swimming pool) resembles a wealthy suburban ice cream, drinks, snacks and full meals. from the reserve roam free. There are a number of gated community with 15 luxurious four-bedroom, The Great Taipei Chinese Restaurant (S 26 26.353 picnic and braai areas as well as a large swimming five-bathroom, two-car garage villas situated in E 031 11.227, Gables Shopping Center, MR103, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES pool. the valley, with views of mountain ranges in both 416-2300, 12pm-3pm & 5:30pm-9pm Mon-Thu, directions. It is government-owned but has a very 12pm-9pm Fri-Sun, mains E40-70) is a popular place All activities in the reserve can be booked at the Top end adept and attentive staff. There is a fine dining run by a Chinese family and serves up large dishes activity center in the main rest camp. Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge (S 26 28.343 E 031 restaurant (12:30pm-3pm & 6:30pm-10:30pm) and at reasonable prices. They even make a great Game Viewing can be done either in your own 10.763, 550-4761, s E840-1,065, d E1,200-1,520 a poolside bar. Peking Duck if given 24hr advanced notice. vehicle or on a guided open-top Land Rover tour. breakfast and dinner included) is the Reilly family’s The guided tour offers 2hr day drives as well as original six-room family home and the first house night drives. in Swaziland to have electricity. It is a flawlessly
EATING DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Mountain Bikes (E85/hr) can be rented on kept lodge situated atop a hill in a fenced off part SWAZILAND an hourly basis for either self-guided tours or of the reserve that has animals not found in the Calabash Restaurant (S 26 23.787 E 031 10.318, Ka-Lohheya Pub (S 26 26.390 E 031 11.314, excursions accompanied by a field guide. Guided rest of the reserve. Guests can walk around this Nyonyane Rd, 416-1187, www.restaurant-cala MR103, 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, 10am-4am Fri-Sat) Bird and Wildlife Walks (E95/hr) can also be bash.com, 12:30pm-2:30pm & 6:30pm-10:30pm, is more of a local scene, located just across the booked at the activity center.
SWAZILAND mains E100-150) is one of the top restaurants in street from Quartermans in the Gables Shopping Chubeka Trails (www.chubekatrails.com, E120/ the country, with a focus on Austrian, German and Center. It has a pool table, an open-air area in the hr) offers Horseback Rides for day trips as well as Swiss cuisine. The restaurant has been around back and is always packed on the weekends. fully catered one or two-day overnight camping since 1976 and the attention given to the interior Why Not / If Not (S 26 26.484 E 031 11.410) rides (E1,085 & E2,200) where you can get design is complemented by the staff’s impeccable is a bar and strip club located across the street up close to the wildlife. service and quality food. Try the Kassler-Rippchen from the Gables Shopping Center entrance. It or grilled Eisbein. was closed for a large-scale renovation when Quarterman’s Restaurant & Pub (S 26 26.339 we visited but is a popular place for drinks and SLEEPING E 031 11.240, Gables Shopping Center, MR103, entertainment in the valley. 416-3023, 9am-10:30pm) is a large dark wood All accommodation in the Mlilwane pub with indoor and outdoor seating. The menu Wildlife Sanctuary can be booked has a large sushi selection in addition to standard transportation through Big Game Parks ( 528-3943, fare. Say what you want about sushi in Swaziland www.biggameparks.org). but the pub draws a loyal following of expats and Mini buses ply the MR103 road to all surrounding tourists in the evenings. Wifi is available (R25/hr). areas including Manzini (E7), Mbabane (E15), and Budget Woodlands Restaurant (S 26 25.347 E 031 everywhere in between. Sondzela Backpackers Lodge (S 26 29.698 E 640 SWAZILAND — Malkerns Valley modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Malkerns Valley — SWAZILAND 641
reputation for its array of local craft shops and its Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) has a few stores uniquely decorated and situated across a large community art scene. and fast food shops with some local fruit and garden area and pool. Whitewater Rafting vegetable stands nearby. Nyanza B&B (S 26 31.166 E 031 12.903, MR16, Whitewater rafting on the Great Usutu River is 528-3090, camping E50/person, dm E125, a thrilling adventure. Obstacles include Class IV TOURIST INFORMATION self-catering cabins: s E320, d E540, breakfast rapids, a waterfall and crocodiles. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES included) is situated on a horse farm with cats, Tourist Information Office (S 26 29.887 E 031 dogs, chickens, peacocks and a host of other Swazi Trails (S 26 26.386 E 031 10.998, Mantenga 13.093, Malandela’s, MR27, 528-3423) is a private Nyanza Horse Trails (S 26 31.166 E 031 12.903, animals. There are only four rooms at this B&B and Craft Center, 416-2180, www.swazitrails.co.sz, 8am- office that is a little light on tourist information but MR16, 7608-5779, www.nyanza.co.sz, E120/hr) it is an especially wonderful place to stay if you are 5pm) can organize Usutu river rafting trips (half-day offers Internet and wifi access. Its primary function offers horseback riding through the surrounding interested in horseback riding with Nyanza Horse E650/person, full-day E750/person) to pump the is as a booking agent for All Out Africa (www. mountains and forest. Trails for the day. adrenaline of any adventure seeker. The trip includes alloutafrica.com), which offers a host of adventure Swazi Quad ( 7615-1619, E600/day) offers Willow Lodge (S 26 30.188 E 031 12.636, MR27, transport as well as lunch and sundowners. You will activities and tours. quad biking tours through rural Swaziland, into 7602-1284, www.swaziwillows.com, s E450, d get wet, so bringing an extra pair of dry clothes is villages and to waterfalls. The day trip includes E670, breakfast included) is a quiet cluster of 13 suggested. a traditional Swazi lunch and dinner, and your brick chalets each with TV and AC and kitchenette, MONEY guide, Richard, will pick you up and drop you off surrounded by pineapple and sugarcane fields. at your accommodation. There is a restaurant with a bar upstairs and area of the reserve freely to view the wildlife and Standard Bank ATM (S 26 31.848 E 031 11.335, central braai area outside. feed the bush babies that run across the roof in Shoprite Shopping Center, Malkerns Town, M27) Rainbird Chalets B&B (S 26 30.780 E 031 the evening. is located at the Shopright Shopping Center. SLEEPING 13.951, MR16, 528-3452 or 7603-7273, [email protected], s E380, d E660) has two log Internet Budget cabins and two A-frames on a family banana EATING & Drinking Swaziland Backpackers (S 26 30.399 farm where hydroponic cucumbers and peppers Ziggy’s Internet Café (S 26 29.887 E 031 13.093, E 031 14.963, MR103, 528-2038, camping are also grown. All of the rooms have TV and Hippo Haunt Restaurant (S 26 29.552 E 031 Malandela’s, MR27, 528-3423, E0.5/min) is E60, dm AC. Those who enjoy bird watching will like 11.154, 528-3943, Mlilwane Main Camp, 6:30am- located in the Tourist Information Office and has E100, d 9:30am, 11am-3pm, 6pm-9pm, set dinner E105) is a few computers and wifi. E230, built on stilts and extends over a small lake where Baz Bus, you can watch hippos wading and occasionally swimming lumbering out of the water for feeding. Shopping pool) is one of the best back packers in the
Swazi Candle Crafts Center (S 26 31.856 E 031 country.The former doctor’s SWAZILAND TRANSPORTATION 12.021, MR16, 528-3219, 8am-5pm) has grown to house has been transformed – include a few other shops geared toward tourists. travelers lounge in the common There is a shuttle service that goes between In addition to handmade candles and soaps, there areas on large pillows and outside, Malandela’s B&B (a few kilometers away on MR27) are shops selling Baobab Batik items, hand-woven the pool area and bar gets crowded
SWAZILAND and Sondzela’s Backpackers. With your own blankets, scarves and shawls, handcrafted bags, when the backpackers is busy. Swazi vehicle you can enter the main entrance gate (S linens and accessories. There is also a café onsite Backpackers can arrange horseback 26 28.768 E 031 11.665) from 6am-6pm for day that serves drinks and snacks. riding, quad biking and tours throughout visitors; overnight guests are usually allowed in Gone Rural (S 26 29.887 E 031 13.093, Swaziland. The house has a relationship after dusk as well. Malandela’s, MR27, 7615-2726, 8am-5pm) is with the nearby Bethany Care Point the retail store of the Gone Rural Organization, Orphanage, where guests can volunteer. which sells mostly woven grass products such MALKERNS VALLEY as baskets, table settings and floor mats as well Mid-range as handbags, ceramics and accessories. The Malandela’s B&B (S 26 29.887 E 031 13.093, GPS: S 26 31.866 E 031 11.306 products are made by women living in rural MR27, 528-3448, www.malandelas.com, s elevation 773 m/2,536 ft Swaziland using locally grown lutindzi grass and E280, d E380 breakfast included, wifi, swimming Malkerns Valley is a popular stopover between the are sold throughout the world. The women who pool) is an eight-room family friendly B&B tourist friendly Ezulwini Valley and the main city of supply the craft products also have access to HIV/ packed with character. It’s situated in the small Manzini. Spotted with pineapple plantations and AIDS workshops. Malandela’s complex that also has one of the some of the best budget accommodation options Shoprite Shopping Center (S 26 31.848 E 031 better restaurants in the area, a pub, craft shop in the country, Malkerns Valley has a growing 11.335, Malkerns Town, M27, 7am-7pm Mon- and Internet café. Each room is vibrantly colored, 642 SWAZILAND — Manzini Map modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Manzini — SWAZILAND 643
2 3 4 MANZINI Watch Local Women GPS: S 26 29.766 E 031 22.706 Create Baobab Batik pop. 100,000 | elevation 607 m/1,991 ft Manzini is located in the center of Swaziland and is A The Swazi Candle Crafts Center sells batik artwork, 500ft the principle commercial, industrial and transport DU TOIT ST clothing, bags and table linen, but the workshop of 200m hub of the country. The size of the downtown area the craftswomen who create these works of art is only makes it walkable by day but there are few tourist a few kilometers away off the MR27, at the Under attractions in town. However the huge Manzini ( MASALAESKHUNDLENI ST African Skies Baobab Batik S 26 30.059 E 031 Market alone makes the city worth a visit, to wade 12.038, 2 km off of the MR27,528-3242 , www.baobab- EAST TO through the hundreds of stalls selling food, crafts ESSER ST Gibela Getaway, batik.com, 7am-5pm). Creating batik fabric is a time and traditional Swazi medicines. 9 Big Bend 13 consuming process that starts with white, cotton NGWANE ST sheets of fabric, which are then dyed in successively DU TOIT ST B MAHLEKA ST 15 B MARTIN ST darker colors. Women apply wax to create designs and 19 Money control where the dye is absorbed. After the coloring is 18 12 10 done, the wax is washed off in hot water. 7 Standard Bank (S 26 29.828 E 031 22.722, cnr MAGNOLIA RD
NKOSELUHLAZA ST KELLEY ST Nkoseluhlaza St & Louw St) has ATMs and foreign NGWANE ST exchange services. SANDLANE ST 4 1 the A-frames that overlook a dam-built pond Nedbank (S 26 29.818 E 031 22.744, cnr 8 2 LOUW ST 17 3 has ATMs and is located NGWANE ST MANCISHANE RD where birds frequent. Breakfast is available upon Nkoseluhlaza St & Louw St) ST 11 ZA request. directly across Louw St from the Standard Bank. C HLA C SELU MHLAKUVANE ST NKO 14 TENBERGEN ST WEST TO 6 Mbabane, MANCISHANE RD MANZINI Matsapha EATING Internet Int’l Airport MONEY Nedbank...... 1 C2 Standard Bank...... 2 C2 Malandela’s Restaurant (S 26 29.887 E 031 Swazinet (S 26 29.828 E 031 22.669, Bhunu
SANDLANE ST TENBERGEN ST 13.093, MR27, 528-3115, 9am-9pm, mains E45- Mall, Ngwane St, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm INTERNET 5 Swazinet...... (See 4) 80) is a great resturant for breakfast, lunch or Sat) has one of the faster Internet connections in World Online...... 3 C3 dinner. It has a constantly changing chalkboard Swaziland.
MAPHEKA ST VILLIERS ST16 SHOPPING menu, primarily of steaks and local game. There World Online (S 26 29.843 E 031 22.901, D MHLAKUVANE ST Bhunu Mall...... 4 C2
is a large fireplace inside for cool evenings and Mancishane St, 505-9754, 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, SWAZILAND The Hub Shopping Center...... 5 D2 covered outdoor seating that overlooks fields of 10am-5pm Sun) has a number of computers with a SIGHTS & activities sugarcane. decent connection speed. You can also connect a Manzini Market...... 6 C2 laptop via ethernet. SLEEPING Manzini Lodge...... 7 C4 SWAZILAND Park Hotel...... 8 C3 DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Tum’s George Hotel...... 9 B4 Zamekile’s Guest House...... 10 C4 Shopping House On Fire (S 26 29.887 E 031 13.093, E EATING Malandela’s, MR27, 528-2110, www.house- Bhunu Mall (S 26 29.828 E 031 22.669, Ngwane Al-Medina...... 11 C2 Debonairs Pizza...... 12 B3 on-fire.com) is a large concert venue that is a hot St) is the largest shopping complex in Manzini Egg Yolk Coffee Shop & Sports Bar...... 13 B3 destination when it has an event, which is only with a large Shoprite, and a host of other shops, Manzini Market...... (see 6) about twice a month. Check their website, the restaurants, a bank and an Internet café. Ramblas Restaurant...... (see 5) Tum’s George Restaurant...... (see 9) local newspaper or ask at where you are staying to The Hub Shopping Center (S 26 30.097 E 031 get their latest schedule. 22.569, cnr Mhlakuvane St & Tenbergen St) has DRINKING & ENT. Café de Flore...... 14 C2 a SuperSpar, Standard Bank & Swazibank ATMs, Huayang (Chinese) Bar...... 15 B3 Super Rock...... 16 D2 an assortment of shops and Rambles Restaurant. F Tinkers Pub & Restaurant...... 17 C1 TRANSPORTATION TRANSPORTATION Bus Station & Minibus Taxi Mini buses ply the MR103 road to all surrounding SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Rank...... 18 B2 Maputo Minibus Taxis...... 19 B3 areas including Manzini (E7), Mbabane (E15), and 1 2 3 everywhere in between. Manzini Market (S 26 29.953 E 031 22.554, 644 SWAZILAND — Manzini modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Manzini — SWAZILAND 645
restaurant with fish and chips, bunny chow, and on the weekends when it turns into a “disco bar” the best Indian food in Manzini, including a with DJs that come in from South Africa. It is a fun Woza Nawe Cultural Tours and Community Stay selection of curries and tandoori. place to party, but watch your pockets. Debonairs Pizza Woza Nawe Cultural Tours (S 26 47.454 E 031 32.277, Kaphunga about 55 km from Manzini, 7604-4102, (S 26 29.702 E 031 22.895, Café de Flore (S 26 29.917 E 031 22.690,
www.swaziculturaltours.com, day tour E550, 2 days 1 night E750, 3 days 2 nights E1150, one week E2250) is the best Ngwane St, 505-3930, 9am-10pm, mains E45-60) Mancishane St, 505-7343, www.swaziboyenter is a South African pizza chain with skimpy pizzas, way to experience rural Swazi life. Your host, Myxo, has roots in rural Swaziland. He is passionate about community- tainment.com, 8pm-late Thu-Sun, cover E20-50) but they do free delivery within a 7 km radius. based tourism and has worked hard to establish a village homestead in the rural mountain community that provides has black lights, mirrored walls and at least 10 disco Next door, Kowloon Fast Food guests with a valuable cultural experience. Myxo is dedicated to responsible tourism and his tours provide a source of ( 505-6856, 7am- balls on the ceiling. This place pulls in some big serves Chinese food from income to rural families. Members of the surrounding communities have built the huts in the village homestead from 10pm, mains E30-50) name DJs from both Swaziland and South Africa. the same owners, which they will deliver along stone and mud or from grass in the traditional beehive style. Super Rock (S 26 30.148 E 031 22.618, Mhlakuvane with a pizza order from Debonairs. Guests are welcome to work with children who attend the preschool that Myxo helped to build. In addition to St, cover E20-50) is another place to mix with the The Egg Yolk Coffee Shop & Sports Bar working with the children at the onsite preschool, you can visit elementary schools in the surrounding communities (S 26 local crowd. It’s nondescript outside but is usually and spend an afternoon teaching and working with the students. If you don’t fancy being in class all day, you can play a 29.623 E 031 23.062, next door to Tum’s George blaring music and packed with people. is owned game of soccer with the locals, take a hike or bike in the mountains or visit a nearby community to watch a traditional Hotel, Ngwane St, light meals E15-55) Huayang (Chinese) Bar (S 26 29.685 E 031 by Tum’s George Hotel and serves drinks and light Sibhaca dance. The mountain sunset here underscores the beauty of this rural area and watching the sun descend is the 22.910, Ngwane St, 11am-late Thu-Sun) is a meals at its outdoor café during the day. In the perfect way to unwind after a slow and peaceful day. borderline dive bar that has mood lighting, two evening, it expands to an indoor/outdoor sports pool tables and some booths. It has the cheapest bar. The café serves Umgcwembe – a traditional drinks in town and because of that, it attracts a Swazi meal of meat, pap and spinach on a large rougher crowd. cnr Mancishane St & Mhlakuvane St) is a popular Manzini Lodge (S 26 29.751 E 031 23.141, cnr wooden tray. covered outdoor market with stalls selling Kelley St & Du Toit St, 505-5382, 2pm-8pm Tum’s George Restaurant (S 26 29.609 E 031 everything from brightly colored woven baskets to wkdays, 6pm-8pm wkends, s/d E300) is a smaller 23.078, Tum’s George Hotel, 11am-11:30pm, mains TRANSPORTATION muti (traditional Swazi medicine). A large section lodge with basic rooms. The reception is strictly E50-105) is a pleasant dining area that serves typical of the market is dedicated to craft stalls geared only open during the listed time above times. hotel restaurant fare including steak, fish, seafood Bus Station & Minibus Taxi Rank (S 26 toward tourists. Zamekile’s Guest House (S 26 29.707 E 031 and pasta. You can also order Umgcwembe off The 29.721 E 031 22.687, Louw St) is located at the 23.424, Kelley St, 505-2193, s E250, d E350, Egg Yolk Coffee Shop menu next door. end of Louw St with transport to most cities and swimming pool) is a newly opened guesthouse borders, including Mbabane (E15) and Simunye SLEEPING that is still a bit disorganized. It has five en suite (E30). bedrooms with a communal living room and DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Maputo Minibus Taxis (S 26 29.696 E 031 Budget kitchen downstairs. 22.874, Ngwane St) are located in a separate Myxo's Backpackers (S 26 28.880 E 031 26.324, Tinkers Pub & Restaurant (S 26 29.852 E 031 minibus rank behind the President Center
off of the MR103, 505-8363, www.swazilive.com/ Top end 22.352, Ngwane St, 505-2208 or 505-2306, 8am- Vending Stalls beside the KFC with transport to SWAZILAND myxo.html, camping E50, dm E100, d E200) is Tum’s George Hotel (S 26 29.609 E 031 23.078, late) is an indoor/outdoor bar that gets packed Maputo (E80). somewhat of a home stay, with Myxo and a few of cnr Ngwane St & Du Toit St, 505-2260, www.tgh. his family members living at the backpackers. The sz, s E680-735, d E890-980, Internet/wifi, swimming house could use some updating, but has a relaxed pool) is the most upscale hotel in Manzini with two
SWAZILAND atmosphere and has only a couple of rooms for restaurants, two bars and 50 rooms that surround guests. About 6 km east of Manzini on the MR3 a courtyard pool. All rooms have TV and AC. The there are signs for Myxo’s Backpackers and Crystal second story rooms are the same price and have Guest House, turn onto the dirt road near the a balcony. signs (S 26 29.275 E 031 25.840) and continue 1.5 km to the end of the dirt road where you will find the backpackers. EATING
Mid-range Ramblas Restaurant (S 26 30.097 E 031 22.569, Park Hotel (S 26 29.827 E 031 22.947, 9A Hubb Shopping Center, cnr Mhlakuvane St & Mancishane St, 505-7423, www.swaziplace.com/ Tenbergen St, 505-3539, 8:30am-late, mains E40- parkhotel, s E270, d E320, breakfast included) has 90, wifi) serves up hearty meals including large and simple rooms and a restaurant that serves lunch loaded pizzas and solid breakfasts. and dinner. On Sunday mornings there is a church Al-Medina (S 26 29.881 E 031 22.761, cnr service held in the basement, which you can hear Mancishane St & Louw St, 505-6144, 7am-7pm throughout the hotel. Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun, mains E25-55) is a Halal 646 SWAZILAND — Piggs Peak modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Piggs Peak — SWAZILAND 647
Phophonyane Falls and Nature Reserve (S 25 B&B with areas to sit outside in the sun or relax 53.907 E 031 17.638, 437-1429, www.phoph beside the swimming pool. onyane.co.sz, day visitor E40) is a 600 hectare reserve with a network of walking trails, the 80 Top end m cascading Phophonyane Falls, natural rock Phophonyane Ecolodge (S 25 53.907 E 031 swimming pools, and open top vehicles for 17.638, off Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy, 437- mountain drives and visits to San Rock Paintings. 1429, www.phophonyane.co.sz, s E908-1,370, d NORTHERN SWAZILAND To get to the nature reserve from Piggs Peak head E1,290-1,940, t E1,840-2,810 breakfast included, The lush and mountainous forests of Northern Swaziland support north on the Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy for about Internet, swimming pool) is located within the 8 km, until you find a signed turnoff to the nature nature reserve among streams that flow through the region’s sizeable forest industry and lures tourists with their reserve. Follow the signs on the dirt road 4.4 km to the tropical grounds to a nearby river and the lodge. If you are coming from the north, there waterfall. Stay in a two-bedroom cottage with a unrefined beauty. There are many ways to appreciate the splendor is a signed turnoff next to the Orion Hotel. kitchenette, two fireplaces and a balcony, or a permanent elevated safari tent with proper beds of these woods, from scenic mountain drives to numerous nature SLEEPING and a separated private bathroom and shower. There are also two traditional and luxurious hiking trails that cross pristine streams and waterfalls flowing down Mid-range heated en suite beehive huts that are located on Jubla Guest House (S 25 58.208 E 031 14.892, the side of the hill below the main lodge, which from the highveld. follow signs off the Main Rd, 437-1052, www. offer a bit more privacy. To get to the lodge jabulabnb.com, s E325, d E450 breakfast included, from Piggs Peak head north on the Main Rd/ swimming pool) is a longstanding three-room King Mswati II Hwy for about 8 km, until you find Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy) is located 100 m north a signed turnoff to the nature reserve. Follow PIGGS PEAK of the Orion Piggs Peak Hotel and has a number of & AROUND craft shops selling paintings, woodcarvings, clothes, GPS: S 25 57.478 E 031 14.954 musical instruments, jewelry, handbags and wicker elevation 1,042 m/3,419 ft products. The center has a small restaurant and Piggs Peak gained its moniker from Frenchman coffee shop. There are also a number of small craft William Pigg, who discovered gold in the area stalls located on the main road around the Piggs and founded a mining town in 1884. After the ore Peak area. mines began to run dry, this small mountain town switched its focus to forestry, and built up sawmills
to process pine trees from the surrounding area. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SWAZILAND Today, the focus of Piggs Peak has turned back to bringing in the gold – this time through the town’s Maguga Dam (S 26 04.740 E 031 15.465, Maguga main attraction, the Orion Piggs Peak Casino. Dam Loop Rd) is a massive work of engineering completed in 2001 through a South African-
SWAZILAND Swaziland partnership in which the two countries Money agreed to share the construction costs and water resources. The 115-meter-high dam includes a Boxer Supermarket Shopping Center (S 25 20 mega-watt hydroelectric power station. It is 57.605 E 031 14.876, Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy) located 12 km south of Piggs Peak on the Komati has a few ATMs. River and can be reached from the Maguga Dam Loop Rd, which forms a crescent off the MR1 between Piggs Peak and Mbabane. One of the best Shopping views of the dam is from the Maguga View Point Restaurant (S 26 04.778 E 031 15.919, Maguga Boxer Supermarket Shopping Center (S 25 Dam Loop Rd, 7668-6637, www.maguga.yolasite. 57.605 E 031 14.876, Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy) com, mains E20-90) where you can enjoy drinks, is the only commercial center within the town, and snacks or full meals on a covered deck overlooking has a collection of retail shops and a local fruit and the dam. While there, you can also watch a short vegetable market. DVD that describes the planning, engineering and Peak Craft Center (S 25 54.579 E 031 18.033, construction of the dam. 648 SWAZILAND — Piggs Peak modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Malolotja Nature Reserve — SWAZILAND 649
accessed from the south side of the park at the Nsangwini Rock Art Nsangwini Rock Art Malolotja Ngwenya Mine entrance. Nsangwini Rock Art Nature Reserve GPS: S 26 08.823 E 031 08.301 Nsangwini Rock Art (S 26 04.007 E 031 17.735, 637-3767, elevation 1,529 m/5,016 ft 9am-4pm, entrance E25) is a collection of 4,000-year-old bushman paintings SLEEPING discovered in 1957 in a rock shelter perched above the Komati River. The rock Malolotja Nature Reserve (S 26 08.823 E 031 shelter was once the site of sacred rainmaking ceremonies; bushmen painted 08.301, 442-4241, www.sntc.org.sz, malolotjares Main Campsite (S 26 08.618 E 031 07.901, on the rock with paint made from animal blood and soil. Today the site is a @sntc.org.sz, 6am-6pm, E28) offers the unique camping E70/person) is a few hundred meters locally run project with entrance funds going toward community development opportunity to spot a number of endangered from the main gate and has large enclosed projects. When you arrive at the reception office, you will be met by a trained species including the Blue Swallow, Bald Ibis, braai pits, tables, water taps and a central house volunteer from the community who will guide you to the rock shelter and Black Eagle and nocturnal Aardwolf. The nature with bathrooms and wood fire heated showers. explain the meaning of the paintings. reserve also has one of the world’s oldest mines Camping is also permitted throughout the nature and Swaziland’s highest waterfalls, the Malolotja reserve (E50/person) at clearings on the side of From Piggs Peak head south about 2 km where there is a one-way signed turnoff Falls. hiking trails, but there are no facilities and no fires are allowed. next to a lumber mill (S 25 59.126 E 031 14.363). Take that road 7.3 km to a signed turn-off onto a dirt road (S 26 01.427 E 031 16.512) and continue to follow Log Cabin Site (S 26 08.439 E 031 08.122, s E400, d E460, t E690) is located about 1 km from the main the signs 7.5 km to the Nsangwini Rock Art reception office (S 26 04.007 E 031 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES gate and a couple hundred meters from the Main 17.735). From the Maguga Dam Loop Rd follow the signs for Nsangwini Rock Hiking is the main activity in Malolotja, which Campsite. There is a cluster of five log cabins and Art, which will lead you to the same dirt road turn-off( S 26 01.427 E 031 16.512). has a network of over 200 km of trails throughout eight newer brick chalets. All of the chalets have the park, ranging from half-day to seven-day two bedrooms, five beds, an indoor fireplace, a hikes. Bird Watching within the park also attracts full kitchen and outdoor braai pit. There is a large the signs on the dirt road 4.4 km to the lodge. If day visitor nature reserve entrance fee E40) is a number of visitors and a list of bird species in central building that was previously a restaurant you are coming from the north, there is a signed situated in a tropical garden with indoor and the park is available at the main gate. Some of but now serves as a picnic area with braai pits, turnoff next to the Orion Hotel. outdoor seating and scenic views overlooking the more popular birds in the park include the picnic tables and bathrooms. Orion Piggs Peak Hotel & Casino (S25 54.370 the nature reserve and surrounding forestry Blue Swallow, Black-rumped Buttonquail, Striped E 031 17.649, Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy, plantations. The restaurant serves home-cooked Flufftail, Guerney’s Sugarbird and the Balk Ibis. 437-1104, www.oriongroup.co.za, s E1,109, d meals, burgers, pizza, vegetarian dishes and The Malolotja Falls are the highest in Swaziland EATING E1,618 breakfast included, Internet, swimming traditional Swazi meals. and the Malolotja River also has some beautiful pool) is an upmarket hotel with a casino (both Egumeni Restaurant (S 25 54.370 E 031 17.649, pools and places to swim under waterfalls. There is a mini store at the main entrance slots and tables), 24hr restaurant & bar (see Orion Piggs Peak Hotel, Main Rd/King Mswati Fly Fishing is available at the small trout dam in that is open from 8am-4pm and sells snacks
below), health and beauty center, tennis courts, II Hwy, 437-1104, open 24hr, mains E75-110) the park. and accessories. The restaurant near the main SWAZILAND mini golf and an onsite Rolls Royce Limo serves up a plentitude of African cuisine, from Ngwenya Mine and Lion Cavern can be campsite is no longer operating and all of the available to chauffeur you around town if you Moroccan tagine and Congo black mushrooms accommodation in the park is self-catering. hit the jackpot. There are just over 100 spacious to traditional Swazi meals. standard rooms and suites, all with TV, AC and
SWAZILAND balconies overlooking the mountains and valley. There are frequent specials on room rates, so DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT call in advance to check. Orion Piggs Peak Casino (S 25 54.370 E 031 17.649, Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy, 437-1104, EATING www.oriongroup.co.za) is open 24hr a day.
Kudla Kwemvelo Restaurant (S 25 57.563 E 031 14.938, behind the Total petrol station on Main TRANSPORTATION Rd/King Mswati II Hwy, 437-1422, 6am-10pm, mains E25-30) is one of the few restaurants in Minibus Taxi Rank (S 25 57.581 E 031 14.920) town. It serves simple local pap or samp (curried is located behind the Total petrol station next maize) meals with meat or vegetables. to the Boxer Supermarket Shopping Center, Phophonyane Ecolodge Restaurant (S 25 53.907 with transport throughout Swaziland including E 031 17.638, off Main Rd/King Mswati II Hwy, Mbabane (E25) and Manzini (E35). Larger buses 437-1429, 7:30am-4:30pm, mains E35-85, leave early in the morning, around 6am. 650 SWAZILAND — Simunye modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Hlane Royal National Park — SWAZILAND 651
EATING in front of the Boxer Superstore Shopping Center with transport going in all directions to Swazi Travelers Restaurant (S 26 12.524 E 031 cities, including Manzini (E30) and a few border 55.202, Boxer Superstore Shopping Center, posts. MR3, 7am-9pm Mon-Thu, 7am-11pm Fri-Sat, mains E10-25) is a ministore that also serves basic fast food, both for dine-in and take-away. Most of the menu consists of chicken dishes but Hlane Royal National Park there are burgers and fish as well. GPS: S 26 15.660 E 031 52.790 Simunye Country Club (S 26 12.854 E 031 elevation 285 m/935 ft 55.173, cnr 5th Ave & Hornbill Rd, 313-4792, 6:30am-9pm, bar open late, mains E50-105) has a Hlane Royal National Park (S 26 15.660 E 031 formal dining hall with a selection of steak, lamb, 52.790, Manzini-Lomahasha Rd, 528-3943, www. chicken and seafood. You can also order from the biggameparks.org, 6am-6pm, E25/vehicle) is the pub menu (mains E40-85), which features burgers, largest protected area in Swaziland. It teems with pizza and light meals. giraffes, hippos and four of the Big 5 (lion, elephant, Tambankulu Country Club (S 26 06.356 E 031 leopard and rhino). 55.305, entrance gate on MR28 at S 26 07.665 E EASTERN SWAZILAND 031 55.790, 373-7111, 7am-9am, 12:30pm-2pm Much of eastern Swaziland is dedicated to the sugar industry. But the & 6:30pm-10:30pm, mains E40-75) is a good place SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES to stop for a meal or to catch a drink at the bar on real attraction for visitors in this region is the Lubombo Conservancy, your way to or from one of the nearby game or Hlane offers a host of activities, all run from the nature reserves. Ndlovu Camp, including guided game walks into nestled just beside the Lubombo Mountains. This beautiful protected a section of the park populated with white rhinos (6:30am, 9am, 3pm, 2.5hr, E90). Take an open-top area is home to three pristine game and nature reserves - Hlane, DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT safari into the fenced-in lion section of the park at sunrise, sunset or during the day Mbuluzi and Mlawula - that are far off the beaten tourist track. There is usually a mix of locals and a few expats (6am, 8am, 11am, 2pm, 3:30pm, who work for the sugar business having drinks at Simunye Country Club (S 26 12.854 E 031 Simunye Shopping 55.173, cnr 5th Ave & Hornbill Rd, 313-4792,
bar open late) or Tambankulu Country Club (S SWAZILAND GPS: S 26 12.524 E 031 55.202 Boxer Superstore Shopping Center (S 26 26 06.356 E 031 55.305, 373-7111, bar 1:30am- elevation 258 m/846 ft 12.524 E 031 55.202, MR3) is the only commercial 10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-12am Fri-Sat, 11:30am- Simunye is a small company town centered center in town. 8pm Sun) during the week. A small crowd gathers around services related to Royal Swaziland Sugar here on weekends.
SWAZILAND Corporation. In Simunye and nearby Tambankulu SLEEPING the accommodation and eating options are TRANSPORTATION limited to country clubs. These country clubs have Simunye Country Club (S 26 12.854 E 031 the aura of private clubs from decades past and 55.173, cnr 5th Ave & Hornbill Rd, 313-4792, Minibus Taxi Rank (S 26 12.524 E 031 55.202, are worth checking out for the experience. But www.visitswazi.com/simunyeclub/, s E400-460, d Boxer Superstore Shopping Center, MR3) is located unless you are in a pinch for time, there are E570-645, swimming pool) has basic self-catering better accommodation options in any of the three cottages with a kitchen and living room. The units nearby game and nature reserves. are scattered around the main lodge, swimming pool and tennis courts. Tambankulu Country Club (S 26 06.356 E 031 Money 55.305, entrance gate on MR28 at S 26 07.665 E 031 55.790, 373-7111, s E360-460, d E530-630, Standard Bank (S 26 12.524 E 031 55.202, Boxer swimming pool) is close to both Mbuluzi Game Superstore Shopping Center, MR3) with ATMs as Reserve and Mlawula Nature Reserve and has a well as a Swazi Bank branch and Nedbank ATM is newer guesthouse across the road from the club located in the Boxer Superstore Shopping Center. bar and restaurant. 652 SWAZILAND — Mbuluzi modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Mlawula — SWAZILAND 653
E170-190). You can bring your own mountain bikes located on the MR28, a few hundred meters off of three units or if the remaining lodges are vacant, or rent bikes and ride on your own or with a guide the MR3/Manzini-Lomahasha Rd. but otherwise offers less privacy than the other on the mountain bike trails (E50/hr with your own lodges in the reserve. bikes, E90/hr with rental) through an area of the park that doesn’t have big game, but has impala, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES kudu, giraffes, wildebeest and zebras. The best way to view the reserve is on foot, Mlawula Nature Reserve via several interlinked walking trails along the GPS: S 26 10.809 E 031 59.900 rivers and up into the mountains. Overnight SLEEPING elevation 147 m/482 ft guests can fish (limit two fish per guest per day) Ndlovu Camp (S 16 15.584 E 031 52.608, in either the Mbuluzi River or the Mlawula River, Mlawula Nature Reserve’s (S 26 10.809 E 031 528-3943, www.biggameparks.org, camping both with good stocks of yellowfish, barbell and 59.900, MR28, 383-8885, www.sntc.org.sz, 6am- E50, rondavel: s E350, d E450) is the main camp bream. 6pm, E25) is on the MR28 about 4 km from the in the park with a restaurant, bar, and a small Mbuluzi Game Reserve gate. The 165 square shop, but no electricity except for an impressive kilometer nature reserve was established in 1980 solar panel system that powers the main lodge. SLEEPING and has 54 km of roads and 10 walking trails. Accommodation options at the main camp are There are a number of animals including monkey, in clay rondavels with gas powered hot showers. The Ndlovu Camp (S 26 08.258 E 032 00.475, wildebeest, zebra, warthog, impala, kudu and For self-catering there are small wooden cottages camping E50/person) is a spacious and rustic nyala as well as hundreds of species of birds. and spacious thatched roof four-bedroom family campsite in the north section of the reserve. The cottages (2-person E500, E140/additional person) main house has a bathroom, and wood fire heated with a gas stove, hot water, paraffin lamps for light showers. In addition to the grass camping area, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES and a private fire pit in front. there are three campsites enclosed by bamboo Bhubesi Camp (S 26 11.055 E 031 51.809, fences, and each has a picnic table, fire pit, braai There are 10 bushveld walking trails in the reserve 528-3943, www.biggameparks.org, d E500 area and water tap. There is no electricity, but for up-close encounters with the wildlife, ranging plus E140/additional person) has electricity with firewood is provided at the campsite and camping from 1hr to full day hikes. One of the trails leads six secluded stone cottages that fit up to four fees include a roll of toilet paper and a paraffin lamp. to the Khabane Cave. Open vehicle guided day people, each with their own fire pit and braai The campsite is located near the Mbuluzi River, and night drives are available upon request area in front. where you can fish or check out the small rapids. and offer an opportunity to view some of the The southern section of the game reserve has nocturnal animals and restricted areas of the three series of self-catering bushveld lodges, all reserve. Fishing in the rivers is also available
EATING with AC and full kitchens. with the purchase of a fishing SWAZILAND The Nkankanka Lodges (S 26 10.600 E 031 permit. Ndlovu Camp Restaurant (S 16 15.584 E 031 59.168, d E800, 4-person E1,600, 6-person E2,100) For swimming check out the 52.608, 528-3943, 7am-10pm, mains E20-60) are large stone and thatched roof lodges with an natural Python Pool scoured was recently built and serves breakfast, lunch and outdoor fire pit, braai area and a private viewing out of a rocky gorge. It’s
SWAZILAND dinner overlooking a watering hole that is popular deck overlooking the river. swimmable during the with hippos. The Mphangele Lodges (S 26 10.914 E 031 rainy season – but 59.073, d E800, 4-person E1600, 6-person watch out for pythons. hut has a kitchen, refrigerator, inside E2,100) are more modern brick and thatched lounge and a fire pit, with a braai area roof lodges with a large kitchen and dining room outside. Mbuluzi that opens up into a covered outdoor sitting area Mapelepele Cottage (S 26 11.670 E 031 Game Reserve SLEEPING and a fire pit, braai area. There is a private deck 59.900, 4-person E500, E150/additional GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 overlooking the river with stairs leading down to Sara Camp (S 26 person) is a stone and thatched roof, large pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft the river’s edge. 11.743 E 031 59.406, cottage with gas and electricity, about 100 m Mbuluzi Game Reserve (S 26 09.361 E 031 58.970, The Singwe Lodges (S 26 11.769 E 031 58.681, E150/person) consists of four permanent from the Sara Camp. There is an indoor fireplace MR28, 383-8861, www.mbuluzigamereserve. d E1,000, 4-person E1,600) are three smaller safari tents on wood platforms with proper beds and an upper level with an outdoor deck. co.sz, 6am-6pm, vehicle E25, day visitors E25) is two-bedroom stone cottages close together in inside and paraffin lamps and a small deck in front. Sophiso Campsite (S 26 12.663 E 032 00.078, a private reserve with a variety of game. Giraffe, a scenic location overlooking the river. There is The tents are spread out and offer a little privacy. camping E60/person) has a large open layout kudu, nyala, zebra and many of the over 300 a separate shared building with a kitchen, living Each tent has a wood fire heated, private open- with a braai area and water tap for each campsite. recorded bird species are commonly sighted room, dining facilities and fire pit/braai area. This air shower perched on the ledge of a hill and There is a main lodge with bathrooms and within the reserve. The main entrance gate is is a great place for a single group renting out all overlooks the nature reserve below. The central washing facilities.