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Home , Anahuacalli Museum, Angel of Independence, Chapultepec, Churubusco, Cuajimalpa, Cuicuilco

ESSENTIAL GUIDE

MEXICOCITY CITY ESSENTIAL GUIDE

One of the world’s largest cities, offers a wide variety of attractions, activities and experiences for all visitors to its vast expanse.

This guide focuses on the essential neighborhoods, museums, parks and other sights that are not to be missed, and which show the city’s great ethnic, architectural, topographical and ecological diversity.

It also presents a glimpse at the long and rich history of the Mexican capital, from pre-Hispanic times and the Colonial era to contem- porary life in a city that never ceases to surprise.

With this guidebook in hand, you will be able to visit the most avant-garde neighborhoods in terms of fashion and current trends, as well as the most important museums that are most representative of Mexican culture, its art and history, as well as seeing artistic and cultural manifestations from other countries. You can go shopping in the most exclusive areas, visit the markets offering the country’s most diverse range of handcrafts and try the best food on offer across the length and breadth of the city.

The guide is divided into five zones: Historic Center; Roma, Conde- sa and Zona Rosa; Reforma, and Polanco; Coyoacán, San Ángel and , and , , Tláhuac and .

With this essential guide you will be able to make the most of your stay. No matter how long you plan to stay, this guide will help you to experience the best that the city has to offer. MEXICO CITY THROUGH THE CENTURIES The word ‘Mexico’ comes from 1823 to 1854 1968 the náhuatl words meztli, ‘moon,’ Power struggle between liberals Mexico City hosts the XIX Olympic xictli, ‘center’ or ‘navel,’ and co, and conservatives. Games. ‘place.’ Mexico means ‘in the na- 1855 to 1863 1969 vel of the moon.’ Reform decreed by Mexico’s Inauguration of the METRO rapid president Benito Juárez, known as transportation system. the ‘distinguished of the .’ 1325 1970 Founding of México-, 1857 Mexico City hosts the soccer capital of the Mexica empire. 1857 Constitution enacted. World Cup. 1976 1366 to 1519 1877 to 1911 The Basilica of Guadalupe, by Eleven (Mexica Government of general governors or leaders) govern architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Porfirio Díaz. Mexico opens. the city of Tenochtitlan, from the experiences economic growth. dynasty. Construction of the Palacio de 1986 1450 Bellas Artes begins. Mexico City once again hosts the soccer World Cup. Tenochtitlan’s heyday. The Mexicas 1910 to 1917 dominate much of . . 1987 1519 The Historic Center and Xochimilco 1917 are declared World Heritage Sites Arrival of the Spaniards. Mexica by . leader Moctezuma Xocoyotzin Triumph of the Constitutionalists. 1917 Constitution written. Pancho meets with Hernán Cortés on 2002 November 8, 1519. Villa and Emiliano emerge as leaders. The TURIBÚS (double-decker World Heritage Sites and 1,500 tourism-quality restaurants. restaurants. and 1,500 tourism-quality Heritage Sites World August 13, 1521 open-air bus) network opens. 1920 México-Tenochtitlan falls to the

unesco 2003 Spaniards. Álvaro Obregón becomes president. Distribution of lands The , the city’s tallest 1522 to the peasants as a result of the tower, opens. revolution. Hernán Cortés establishes the 2004 Spanish government of the new 1921 The Casa Estudio de Luis Barragán, colony in Coyoacán. Obregón designates José one of the 20th century’s most 1535 Vasconcelos as Education Minister. important architects, is declared a World Heritage Site by unesco. The Colony of is A period of rich cultural output begins. officially established. 2007 1922 September 15, 1810 The Campus of the National The War of Independence begins is born, with the Autonomous University of Mexico emergence of painters such as Dr. after a call to arms by parish priest (unam) is declared a World Atl, , José Clemente Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. Heritage Site by unesco. Orozco and . September 27, 1821 2010 1938 End of the Independence War. is declared Mexico City invaded by the ‘army Expropriation of the oil industry by Intangible World Heritage by of three guarantees’ that fought President Lázaro Cárdenas del Río. unesco. against the Spaniards, headed by 1950 to 1960 Agustín de Iturbide. 2012 Mexico City enters a period of The Alameda, the oldest park in 1822 urbanization and the country the Americas, is remodeled. enjoys an economic bonanza Agustín de Iturbide proclaims known as the ‘.’ 2013 himself emperor of Mexico under the name Agustín I. Mexico City’s mayor declares 1950 to 1970 tourism a priority policy for his 1823 Iconic public buildings open, government. Mexico City is currently home to around 9 million people. It has a vast amount of tourist attractions, including 177 museums, making it the city with including 177 museums, making it the city attractions, of tourist amount It has a vast 9 million people. around home to is currently City Mexico four London; after number of museums in the world largest the second including the unam campus and Iturbide’s empire overthrown by the Auditorio Nacional. insurgents. INDEX

COYOACÁN, HISTORIC SAN ÁNGEL AND ZONE 1 CENTER ZONE 4 P. 4 TLALPAN P. 15

ROMA, XOCHIMILCO,

ZONE 2 AND ZONE 5 MILPA ALTA, ZONA ROSA TLÁHUAC AND P. 8 CUAJIMALPA P. 21

PASEO DE , SPECIAL

ZONE 3 CHAPULTEPEC AND SE EVENTS POLANCO P. 24 P. 12 ZÓCALO ZONE 1 The main square is the political, economic, social and religious center of the country. Here is the , the remains of the Aztec temples, and a statue of an eagle perched on a cac- tus, which the interpreted as the chosen place to build their city: Tenochtitlan. The Palacio Nacional, which houses HISTORIC five by Diego Rivera, faces the square, as well as city hall CENTER and the Cathedral, the largest and oldest in Mexico. For a pa- noramic view of the square, head for a drink on the terrace of the Hotel Majestic.

ZÓCALO — WHAT TO SEE —

MUSEO DEL ESTANQUILLO PALACIO POSTAL Isabel la Católica 26 at Madero; Tacuba 1; 5340 3300; open daily 5521 3052; www.museodeles- 10 to 18 hrs. Perhaps the world’s tanquillo.com. Displays the per- most palatial post office, and the sonal collection of late writer and most opulent place from which intellectual Carlos Mon- to send a letter home. The siváis. The museum is a quarry stone treasure trove of more ART façade gives way to a than 12,000 objects of AND HISTORY cool enclave of marble Mexican memorabilia, and wrought ironwork from posters and post- imported from Florence. cards to books, cartoons from There are elegant elevators newspapers, and film posters that and the third floor houses the serve as a chronicle of the city. Postal Museum. PALACIO POSTAL PALACIO Declared a unesco World Heritage Site for its

beautiful Colonial-era DEL ESTANQUILLO MUSEO buildings and , the Historic Center is the heart of the city and where all visits should begin.

4 Tacuba 8; 5130 3400; www.mu- nal.mx. This was the of

Communications at the turn of AMERICAN TOWER LATIN the 20th century, and is fronted by an equestrian statue. Now the National Art Museum hous- ing a permanent retrospective LA LAGUNILLA of from the 16th Eje 1 at Reforma. Divided into century to the present, as well LATIN AMERICAN TOWER three sections, of clothes, as rotating exhibitions from 2; 5518 7423; www. antique furniture and bric-a- around the world. toreelatino.com. Once the city’s brac, but you can find almost tallest building, and still a distin- anything here. On Sundays, close to Reforma, there is guishing feature on its skyline. It MUNAL an antiques market, with housed an insurance company in furniture from different eras the 1950s, and which gave the as well as LPs, crockery, vases tower its name. There is a bar and even paintings by famous and restaurant at the top and artists. the observation deck on the 41st floor affords stunning, panoram- ic views of the city.

PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES Av. Juárez at Eje Central; 5512 2593; www.museopalaciodebellasar- tes.mx. The jewel in the crown of DE BELLAS PALACIO downtown, the palace of fine arts has a dazzling marble exterior and an interior. The interior is decorated with paintings by Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, David Álfaro Siquieros and , while the galleries host visiting exhibitions, and the audi- torium, with a Tiffany curtain, hosts concerts, opera and ballet.

HISTORIC CENTER 5 TWO SQUARES WORTH VISITING

LA CIUDADELA CORONA SALÓN Plaza de la Ciudadela 1 and 5. One of the largest arts and crafts markets in the city, where scores of stalls sell wares from across the country: embroidered garments from Michoacán or , ceramics from and Mexico state, black from , and silver from Taxco. Look out for the alebrijes, — WHERE TO EAT — brightly painted fantastical creatures fashioned from LA CASA DE LAS SIRENAS SALÓN CORONA paper maché and which República de 32, Bolívar 24, Centro; 5512 5725; www. make a fun souvenir. Centro; 5704 3345; www.lacas- saloncorona.com.mx; daily, 8 to 3 adelassirenas.com.mx; Mon-Sat, hrs. One of the center’s best bar/ PLAZA TLAXOAQUE 11 to 23 hrs, Sun until 18 hrs. restaurants to spend an afternoon José María Izazaga at Pino Mexican dishes served in a Co- with a beer and tacos or octopus Suárez. Couples, skaters lonial-era townhouse with a ter- sandwiches, this cantina’s special- and dog-walkers gather race boasting the best view of ty, amid a lively atmosphere. here in the afternoons the Cathedral and Zócalo. and, although the square is sandwiched between CAFÉ DE TACUBA busy streets, it has a Tacuba 28, Centro; 5518 4950;

pleasant atmosphere of www.cafedetacuba.com.mx; CAFÉ DE TACUBA isolation. The area was daily, 8 to 23:30 hrs. A tradi- remodeled as a park as tional meeting place since 1912 part of the bicentenary of for politicians and artists. It still independence celebrations serves its Puebla enchi- in 2010. ladas, stuffed chilies, , cakes and delicious Spanish hot chocolate.

6 — NIGHTLIFE —

PASAGÜERO co. Local and international musi- Motolinía 33, Centro; 5521 6112; cians play on its small and inti- daily, 12 to 3 hrs. The down- mate stage. town’s indie venue par excel- lence, attracting a young crowd in search of something different, whether it be a jam session of emerging musicians, a famous CLUB JAZZ ZINCO dj, a performance or an art ex- hibition.

ZINCO JAZZ CLUB Motolinía 20 at Cinco de Mayo; 5512 3369; www.zincojazz.com; Wed-Sat, 21 to 2 hrs. A classic jazz club, located in what were the vaults of the Bank of Mexi- PLAZA DE LA REPÚBLICA AND REVOLUTION The recently remodeled Revolution Monument – with a museum, shop, cafeteria and enormous esplanade – is

MUSEUM OF AND MEZCAL MUSEUM OF TEQUILA part of the Paseo Revolución- Zócalo corridor. You can take a glass elevator to the monument’s viewing deck, while the basement houses a museum with photographs, Eje Central at República de Honduras. The mecca of in the videos, flags, weapons, city: itinerant musicians in their traditional garb play for clients that documents and art from the come here to celebrate anniversaries, baptisms, weddings or the re- Mexican Revolution. sult of a soccer match, or to serenade their partner and have a drink, either on the square or in one of the bars that face it, such as Salón Tenampa, the most emblematic and with the best ambiance.

HISTORIC CENTER 7 ROMA ZONE 2 The neighborhood’s main drag is Álvaro Obregón, with both new and legendary restaurants, taco joints and diners, se- cond-hand bookstores and alternative boutiques. There is also the Casa Lamm cultural center. On Orizaba street there are two ROMA, squares, Luis Cabrera and Río de Janeiro, both surrounded by CONDESA cafés, art galleries and restaurants, while Colima street has bou- AND tiques and stores. The Tonalá Cinema, on the street of the same name, has a bookstore and a bar-restaurant. ZONA ROSA — WHERE TO EAT — BROKA Zacatecas 126, Roma; 4437 4285; www.brokabistrot.com;

Mon-Fri., 14 to 18 hrs, tapas bar CONTRAMAR from 20 hrs to midnight. A small and inviting bar and restaurant with a fixed-price gourmet ALVARO OBREGÓN AVENUE, ROMA AVENUE, OBREGÓN ALVARO menu at lunchtimes. The interi- or patio is the perfect place for evening drinks and tapas.

CONTRAMAR Durango 200, Roma Norte; 5514 3169; www.contramar.com.mx; one of the city’s best seafood Sun-Wed., 12 to 18 hrs, Thur-Sat restaurants, attracting a lively until 21 hrs. Without a doubt crowd at lunchtimes. The tuna and leek tostadas alone are worth the wait for a table. BROKA Twice a year, the ROSETTA Roma-Condesa Cultural Colima 166, Roma; 5533 7804; Corridor is held, a weekend Mon to Sat, 13 to 23:30 hrs. Ital- dedicated to neighborhood ian food that differs from the tourism, when museums, usual dishes. Chef Elena Reyga- galleries, stores, restaurants das opened her restaurant in a and the Tonalá Cinema remodeled early 20th century attract tourists. mansion, and where you’ll find some of the best dishes in town.

8 MAZATLÁN STREET, CONDESA pleasant inthecity andatitscenterisParque México. a street that wasonceahorseracing circuit, isoneofthemost a cinema,andwhichhostsbook presentations. Ámsterdam, Época cinemaisnow theRosario Castellanosbookstore, with joints, bars,icecream parlorsandrestaurants. Theformer Bella zatlán are themost-trodden duetotheirdozensofcafés, taco The streets of Michoacán, Nuevo León, Tamaulipas and Ma dominos. where menmeet to play with a good menu, and tuals andbohemians, journalists, intellec rant, popular among ish-style barandrestau stairs only. 1pm-2am, Sununtil 9pmup 121; 5533Puebla 2922; Mon-Sat COVADONGA A traditional Span ROMA, CONDESA ANDZONA ROSA - — NIGHTLIFE CONDESA - ORCHESTRA - DANCING - LIVE AND partner -for afee. 1442; Mon-Sat., 20 to 3hrs San Luis Potosí 28, Roma; 5574 SALÓN SAN LUIS

bar withalive orchestra play will happilybeyour dance ing salsaandfrequent dance, andwhere girls ed by office workers with thedesire for a and localresidents . A . - - -

MAMA RUMBA Market and dances. The miss theirfood ormusic community, whodon’t American andCaribbean favorite haunt oftheSouth Roma neighborhood isa The extreme southofthe FLAVORS TROPICAL Jarocha. Rumba orLaEmbajada dancing, headto Mama American beers. For serving are restaurants nearby Colombian food, andthere Cuban ice cream and hasstalls selling arepas andSouth Medellín 9

CALLE MAZATLÁN, CONDESA MEROTORO

Among the illustrious former residents of the Roma are US writer William S. Burroughs and Italian photographer .

— WHERE TO EAT —

AZUL CONDESA 6pm. Specializing in cuisine Nuevo León 68; 5286 6268; Mon- from the Baja California penin-

Wed 1-11pm, Thur-Sat until 2pm, sula using organic ingredients. BELLINGHAUSEN Sun until 6pm. A trendy hang- out serving both traditional XEL-HA and innovative Mexican cuisine, Parral 78; 5553 5968; Mon-Sat created by chef Ricardo Muñoz 1pm-2am, Sun until 7pm. A can- Zurita, inspired by dishes from tina with the accent on Yucatán across Mexico. cuisine, serving dishes such as cochinita and lime soup, and MEROTORO where there is always a lively Amsterdam 204; 5564 7799; lunchtime and evening atmo- Mon-Sat 2-11:30pm, Sun until sphere.

— NIGHTLIFE —

FELINA EL DEPÓSITO XEL-HA Ometusco 87; 5277 1917; Tue- Baja California 375 at Camar- Wed, 18 to 1 hrs., Thur-Sat until go; 5271 0716; Mon-Wed 12 to 2 hrs. A place without pre- midnight, Thur, Fri and Sat tentions that is tranquil until 2 hrs., Sun until 22 and relaxed and where hrs. A trendy bar and CRAFT the music is not too craft beer store, with a BEERS loud for conversation. wide variety of Mexi- Weekends see it fill up, can and imported brews with a good selection of and snacks, such as crispy music. French fries and tasty pizzas.

10 tos, which you canuseto buymoji currency, called‘miracles,’ and music andfor having itsown famous for itscocktails, good hrs. ilan.com.mx; Thur-Sat 21to 2:30 Milán 18;5592 0031; www.barm BAR MILÁN Sun until 6pm. 12:30-11pm, Thur-Sat until 12am, tromosaico.com.mx; Mon-Wed tocolmo; 5514 0450; www.bis Paseo delaReforma 316at Es BISTRO MOSAICO the city’s politicalclasses. which isafavorite haunt among breakfasts andlunches, serving deliciousandhearty that boasts abeautifulgarden, to 19hrs. Londres 95; 5207 4978; daily, 13 BELLINGHUASEN and anantiquesmarket heldonSaturdays. shops and the Bazar del Ángel, a small mall with art galleries especially amongthegay community. It’salsofamous for its it hasbeenfamous asoneofthecity’sliveliest nightlife hubs, rants andwasnamedtheZonaRosa inthe1960s.Sincethen tes avenues is flooded withhotels,bars, boutiquesand restau The triangleformed by thecrossing ofReforma andInsurgen negronis A diminutive discotheque A Zona Rosa stalwart andManhattans. Serves up ROMA, CONDESA ANDZONA ROSA — WHERETO EAT — ZONA ROSA — NIGHTLIFE

deli - - - - - Juan MariArzak andnow in the cuisine created by Spanish chef until 18hrs Fri 13to 23 hrs,Sat andSun Amberes 78; 9149 3000;Mon- TEZKA and relaxing atmosphere. in alively andelegant but casual erous saladsandcold meats, all cious bistro fare, includinggen for specialthemednights. play to an eclectic crowd. Check Paseo delaReforma, where with aterrace affording aview of spread across three floors, and lively andfriendlygay club Thur-Sat 22 to 3hrs. Amberes 1;5514 4920; LIPSTICK find. city, andamong thebest you’ll Flores. The food is a rarity inthis capable handsofchefFrancisco . Succulent signature A djs - - -

HAMBURGO AT AMBERES, ZONA ROSA soccer team. as avictory by Mexico’s mass celebrations, such It’s thegathering point for crowned by abronze quarry stone from Chiluca a The city’s icon andlogo, INDEPENDENCE ANGEL OF angel bathed ingoldleaf, 130ft Mexico’s independence. and thework of column hewn in anniversary of architect Antonio 1910, on the100th September 16, Rivas Mercado. Unveiled on

11 ZONA 3 Built on the orders of emperor Maximilian of Hapsburg to link with the downtown area, and which today is lined with some of the city’s most iconic statues and sculptures: the , the Huntress, PASEO DE LA and Sebastián’s ‘Horse.’ It is also the city’s backbone of culture, REFORMA, finance, tourism, media and politics. It also features five-star CHAPULTEPEC hotels, the Torre Mayor, and the Senate. AND POLANCO — WHAT TO SEE —

CHAPULTEPEC PARK MODERN ART MUSEUM The city’s largest park, with a Paseo de la Reforma at Gandhi; boating lake, a zoo, restaurants 5553 6233; www.mam.org.mx; and museums. Chapultepec Cas- Tue-Sun, 10:15 to 17:30 hrs. Hosts a tle, which was the presidential permanent collection of modern residence until the , now Mexican art that includes works contains the National History Mu- by the country’s most celebrat- seum, with a permanent collec- ed artists, such as David Alfaro tion chronicling Mexico’s history, Siqueiros, Kahlo, Diego Ri- from the Aztecs to the Porfirio vera, José Clemente Orozco, Dr. Díaz regime, and exhibits coins, Atl, María Izquierdo and José Luis armory and weapons, furniture, Cuevas. The gardens also contain jewelry and decorative arts. sculptures by renowned artists.

One of the city’s most MODERN ART MUSEUM MODERN ART beautiful avenues, Paseo de la Reforma links the downtown area to Chapultepec Park. The elegant Polanco neighborhood is an exclusive enclave of fashion boutiques, restaurants and art galleries.

12 PASEO DE LA REFORMA, CHAPULTEPEC ANDPOLANCO TAMAYO CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM those insidethe hotels onCamposElíseos. and, intheevenings, the glamourmigrates tothebars,suchas se showcasing Mexican designers.There are many artgalleries res whosebrands grace theworld’s capitalcities,aswell astho One ofthemainstreets, Presidente Masaryk,islinedwithsto ners, five-star hotels andsomeofthecity’sbest restaurants. A neighborhoodofluxury-brand shops,avant-garde desig 40405300; Paseo delaReforma at Gandhi; MUSEUM NATIONAL ANTHROPOLOGY contemporary art. hibitions ofinternational well as temporary ex artist Rufino Tamayo as its acollection by Mexican Tue-Sun, 10to 18hrs. 5286 6529; Paseo delaReforma at Gandhi; ART MUSEUM TAMAYO CONTEMPORARY www.museotamayo.org www.mna.inah.gob. Exhib - POLANCO - PREHISPANIC CULTURES ; culture oftheGulfcoast. smiling figurinesfrom the Totonac heads from andVeracruz, country, suchascolossal Olmec at archaeological sites across the enough to seeitall.Contains the see, althoughonevisitwon’t be the jewels ofthecity andamust- mx ; Tue-Sun, 9to 19hrs.

narily complex pieces found archaeological legacy of the archaeological legacy ofthe beautiful andextraordi Mesoamerican civiliza the Spaniards, including the Spaniards, including tions upto thearrival of One of One of - - - - -

POLANCO kids’ favorite. 3D. The area ofgiant bubblesisa wildlife, geography andhistory in America andshows movies on largest cinema screen in Latin ADO Megapantalla IMAX has the for learningwhilehaving fun.The paratus andspace isdesigned the five senses.Eachgame, ap games andactivities to stimulate active museum for children, with www.papalote.org.mx Constituyentes 218;52371773; CHILDREN’S MUSEUM PAPALOTE NATIONAL ANTHROPOLOGY MUSEUM . Aninter - - 13 POLANQUITO A walk around Polanco should include Polanquito, an area of cafés and restaurants around , which has a theater, a lake and a children’s playground.

— WHERE TO EAT —

PUJOL sine that is tasty but can be quite Francisco Petrarca 254, Polanco; heavy. Don’t order too much, but BIKO 5545 4111; www.pujol.com.mx; do try the house specialties, such Mon-Sat 12 to 16 hrs., and 18:30 as marrowbone soup, plantain to 23 hrs. Considered one of the with beans and black world’s best restaurants, and sauce or pork tacos. the brainchild of chef Enrique Olvera, who experiments with BIKO ingredients to reinvent Mexican Plaza Zentro. Presidente Masaryk dishes. 407, Polanco; 5282 2064; www. biko.com.mx; Mon-Sat 13:30 to 17 EL BAJÍO hrs., and 20 to 23 hrs. Chef Mikel Alejandro Dumas 7, Polanco; 5281 Alonso prepares Basque food 8245; Mon-Sat 8 to 23:30 hrs., Sun with much creativity and imagi- 9 to 22. Authentic Mexican cui- nation of great visual beauty.

PUJOL — NIGHTLIFE —

BAR ÁREA IVOIRE Hotel Habita. Presidente Ma- Emilio Castelar 95, Polanco; 5280 saryk 201, Polanco; 5282 3100; 0477; www.ivoire.com.mx; Mon- Mon-Wed 19 to 23 hrs., Thur-Sat Sat 18 to 1 hrs. Café, restaurant until 2 hrs. A bar with a small and, on the roof terrace with a pool on the rooftop of the Hotel view of Parque Lincoln, the bar is Habita, with spectacular views a good place for a drink to start and tunes spun by resident and the night. Famed for its attentive

guest djs. service.

14 COYOACÁN A delightful neighborhood of Colonial-era houses and cob- ZONA 4 blestone streets, the center of Coyoacán is famous for its two squares, Jardín Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario, the centerpie- ce of which is a fountain with a sculpture of two coyotes, after COYOACÁN, which the neighborhood is named. The squares are surroun- ded by bars, restaurants and cafés. On the evening of each Sep- SAN ÁNGEL tember 15, a huge celebration takes place outside the town hall, AND or Casa de Cortés (which dates from 1755), to commemorate Mexico’s independence. TLALPAN

— WHAT TO SEE —

MUSEO NACIONAL 10 hrs. This beautiful house and COYOACÁN DE CULTURAS POPULARES garden, where the artist Frida Avenida Hidalgo 289; 4155 0920; Kahlo lived (and died) with fel- Tue-Thur 10 to 18 hrs., Fri-Sun un- low artist Diego Rivera, contains til 20 hrs. Exhibits folk art from a rich collection of works by both all of Mexico’s regions. The mu- artists, as well as part of the lat- seum shop is a great place to ter’s collection of pre-Hispan- buy souvenirs. ic vestiges, and some of their personal effects LA CASA AZUL MUSEUM and original furniture Londres 247; 5554 5999; and fittings, providing www.museofridakahlo. an insight into their lives org.mx; Tue 10 to 17:45 hrs. there, and that of their influ- Wed from 11 hrs., Thur-Sun from ential circle of friends.

CENTRO CULTURAL Y SOCIAL VERACRUZANO

LA CASA AZUL CASA LA Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 687; 5659 8538; www.centroveracru- These neighborhoods will zano.blogspot.mx. Dedicated to make you feel as if you the promotion and dissemina- were in a little town in tion of culture. Boasts Colonial times: brick and gardens, a restaurant, café, mortar houses with large theater and an art gallery, and gardens on cobblestone, organizes cultural events such tree-lined streets, and as concerts, dance, theater and squares with little book presentations. churches.

COYOACÁN, SAN ÁNGEL AND TLALPAN 15 MUSEO CASA DE LEÓN TROTSKY Río 410; 5554 0687; Tue-Sun, 10 to 17 hrs. The forti- fied house where the Soviet rev- MUSEO CASA DE LEÓN TROTSKY DE LEÓN CASA MUSEO olutionary León Trotsky lived, exiled by Stalin, and where he was murdered by a Stalinist agent in 1940.

DIEGO RIVERA MUSEO UNIVERSITARIO ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO (MUAC) Museo 150; 5617 4310; www. Insurgentes Sur 3000; 5622 museoanahuacalli.org.mx; Wed- 6972; www.muac.unam.mx. An Sun 11 to 17 hrs. In the San Pablo impressive new museum show- Tepetlapa, this building houses casing contemporary art, dance UNAM, Diego Rivera’s collection of and performance, The museum UNESCO WORLD pre-Hispanic artifacts and forms part of the Centro

HERITAGE SITE was constructed out UNIVERSITY Cultural Universitario, The campus of the National of volcanic rock and CULTURAL which includes the Ne- Autonomous University of inspired by the Teo- CENTER zahualcóyotl and Miguel Mexico (unam), one of the tihuacan architectural Covarrubias concert halls, world’s largest, with more style. Hosts temporary ex- the Juan Ruiz de Alarcón than 300,000 students, hibitions, workshops, dramatized theater and the Sor Juana Inés is located just south of visits and an art bazaar. de la Cruz forum. Coyoacán. The Central Library is wrapped in a MUAC by Juan O’Gorman, and the dean’s tower in a mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros. The nearby Olympic Stadium features artwork in stone by Diego Rivera.

16 COYOACÁN, SAN ÁNGEL AND TLALPAN — WHERE TO EAT —

LOS DANZANTES ly, 13 to 18 hrs. Veracruz-style Jardín Centenario 12, Coyoacán; cuisine with a contemporary 5658 6054; www.losdanzantes. twist. Famous for its duck en- com; Mon-Fri 13:30 to 23 hrs., chiladas and seafood. Sat 9 to 12, Sun until 23 hrs. Great Oaxaca cuisine and offer- CORAZÓN DE MAGUEY ing a good selection of mezcal Jardín Centenario 9-A, Coyoacán; varieties. 5659 3165; www.corazondema- guey.com; daily, 13 to 1 hrs. Tradi- EL TAJÍN tional Mexcian cuisine and some Centro Cultural y Social Veracru- seasonal dishes such as chilies zano. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo in pomegranate sauce, acociles 687, Coyoacán; 5659 5759; www. (river shrimps), and chicatana centroveracruzano.com.mx; dai- ants.

MUSEO ESTUDIO DIEGO RIVERA Diego Rivera at Altavista, San Ángel; 5550 1518; www.estudiodiegorivera. bellasartes.gob.mx Diego Rivera lived and worked

DIEGO RIVERA ANAHUACALLI MUSEUM ANAHUACALLI RIVERA DIEGO in these two functionalist houses designed by Juan O’Gorman during the 1930s with Frida Kahlo. The museum houses works by both artists, as well as pre-Hispanic artifacts and a — NIGHTLIFE — collection of decorative Day EL HIJO DEL CUERVO of the Dead skeletons. Jardín Centenario 17, Coyoacán; of the most emblematic bars in 5658 7824; www.elhijodelcuervo. the area that also organizes cul- com.mx; Mon-Wed 14 to 23 hrs., tural events, such as concerts, Thur 13 to 1 hrs., Fri and Sat until poetry readings and book pre- 2:30 hrs, Sun 12 to midnight. One sentations.

COYOACÁN, SAN ÁNGEL AND TLALPAN 17 LA BIPO LA LA BIPO Malitzin 155, Coyoacán; 5484 8230; Thur-Sat 13 to 2:30 hrs., Sun-Wed until 23:30 hrs. A bus- tling cantina on the ground floor with metal tables and a free juke- box, while upstairs is a well-fre- quented dance club. Serves de- licious Mexican dishes, such as mushroom soup and fish tacos.

SAN ÁNGEL A neighborhood of elegant Colonial-era houses that used to be a separate village, and which is now a vibrant area of artists and artisans, especially on Saturdays, when the Bazar del Sábado is MUSEO DE ARTE set up and transforms the main square, Plaza San Jacinto, into a CARRILLO GIL sea of stalls selling paintings, sculptures and handcrafts. There is Revolución 1608; 5550 6260; also an indoor bazaar, in front of the square, housing a labyrinth www.museodeartecarrillogil. of shops selling clothes and good-quality handcrafts. com; Tue-Sun 10 to 18 hrs. — WHERE TO EAT — For contemporary art lovers, this museum is one ALAIA Wed 13:30 to 23 hrs., Thur-Sat of the city’s most avant- Canoa 80, Tizapán, San Ángel; until midnight, Sun until 18 hrs. garde spaces, hosting 5616 6336; www.alaia.com. Local ingredients combine on exhibitions by artists from mx; Mon-Sat 13:30 a menu specializing in around the world. to 23 hrs., Sun until salads, fine cuts of meat COLONIAL-ERA 18hrs. Contemporary ARCHITECTURE and seafood. Basque cuisine with an extensive Spanish SAN ÁNGEL INN wine list, either to enjoy Diego Rivera 50, San Ángel with tapas or with a full meal. Inn; 5616 1402; www.sanangelinn. com; Mon- Sat 13 until 1 hrs., Sun CORAZÓN DE ALCACHOFA until 21:30 hrs. Located in a beau- Camino al Desierto de los Leones tiful country mansion with expan- 15, San Ángel; 5550 5003; www. sive interior patios, specializing in corazondealcachofa.com; Mon- traditional Mexican cuisine.

18 COYOACÁN, SAN ÁNGEL AND TLALPAN TLALPAN Once a pre-Hispanic settlement, this is another enchanting enclave of narrow cobbled streets, elegant houses and a central square that serves as the venue for live music on the bandstand on weekends. A good selection of cafés and restaurants su- rround the square, including a traditional cantina, and there’s a good bookstore and a children’s playground in a small park on one corner.

— WHAT TO SEE —

TLALPAN FOREST the Javier Barros Sierra Science AND and Culture Institute houses an Part of a national park system art gallery that organizes exihi- popular with picnickers on bitions and workshops. weekends and where you can play gotcha, rent quad bikes or SIX FLAGS race around go-kart tracks, go Carretera Picacho-Ajusco; www. horseback riding and mountain sixflags.com.mx. For theme park biking, or simply enjoy the fresh fans, this is the city’s premier place air and a traditional Mexican for white-knuckle rides. Located in ARCHAEOLOGICAL meal at one of the rustic restau- Tlalpan forest, the park includes SITE rants in the area. The Joker spinning rollercoaster, Av. Insurgentes Sur; and seven other hair-raising rides, Mon-Sun, 9 to 17 hrs. CASA FRISSAC including Superman, Hurricane The Cuicuilco archaeological Plaza de la Constitución at and Boomerang, guaranteed to site, just to the south of the Moneda; 5485 3266. Located give young and old alike an unfor- UNAM, was an important inside a 19th-century mansion, gettable adrenaline rush. ceremonial center and, dating from the 7th century B.C., was the first major settlement in the valley now SIX FLAGS occupied by Mexico City. A grassy knoll conceals a large and the site is FOTO surprisingly tranquil despite being sandwiched between two major thoroughfares.

COYOACÁN, SAN ÁNGEL AND TLALPAN 19 TLALPAN Spend a morning or afternoon in the center of Tlalpan FOTO and enjoy its excellent restaurants, cafés and ice-cream parlors

— WHERE TO EAT — LOS GOLIARDOS traditional method, in a hole in Plaza de la Constitución 17, Tlal- the ground, and other Mexican

pan Centro; 5573 1039; Mon- dishes. Cowboys put on displays RAYUELA LA Wed 14 to 23 hrs., Thur until of horsemanship and diners can 23hrs., Fri and Sat until 1hrs., Sun even get in the ring with the bull- until 22hrs. Try the house pizza, ocks. Olé. with goats’ cheese, black

olives, peppers, capers LAMB LA RAYUELA and tomato. ‘BARBACOA’ AND Madero 107, Tlalpan MEXICAN Centro; 5655 8456; ARROYO SNACKS daily, 8 until midnight. Insurgentes Sur 4003, In a Colonial-era mansion Tlalpan; 5573 4344; www.ar- with tables outside under the royorestaurante.com.mx; daily, 8 arches and serving a - to 20 hrs. The house specialty is an-inspired menu featuring pas- lamb barbacoa, cooked with the ta, salads and a decent wine list. — NIGHTLIFE —

BEER FACTORY Av. San Fernando 649 Int. 6, at Av. Insurgentes, Peña Pobre, LOS GOLIARDOS LOS Cuicuilco; 5606 0612; Mon-Thu 12 to midnight, Fri and Sat until 2 hrs. Sun 12 to 22 hrs. The Tlalpan branch of a chain that brews its own beer, a popular spot for an early evening drink and fre- quented by a young and lively crowd.

20 ZONE 5 XOCHIMILCO

XOCHIMILCO, MILPA ALTA, TLÁHUAC AND CUAJIMALPA

XOCHIMILCO A network of ‘floating gardens’ dating back to pre-Hispanic times and plied by trajineras, gondola-type boats, their (female) names emblazoned across their sunshades in letters of flowers. musicians paddle by and will play to visitors, and food is served from passing boats. From the Cuemanco embarkation point, visit the more tranquil canals and enjoy the beautiful countryside views. In some areas you’ll see the traditional ‘rafts’ of soil in which the plants grow, an agricultural practice dating back to the and which has been declared unesco World Heritage. Xochimilco is famous for its flower markets and its food market, the perfect place to stop and eat some snacks before taking to the water.

— WHERE TO EAT —

CASA DON NETO Tue-Sun, 12 to 18 hrs. Culinary Margarita Maza de Juárez 41, time travel with a full menu of Barrio de San Pedro; 5334 9465; authentic pre-Hispanic dishes, Mexico City boasts a rural daily, 09:30 to 19 hrs. Extensive from snail ceviche to venison. area of ecological reserves menu of traditional Mexican that is worth seeking dishes, including fish, and all LA HERENCIA DEL GALLO out. To the south and variety of snacks. A favorite Av. Tabachines 58, Xochimilco; southeast of the center are among locals and visitors alike. 5675 9004; Tue-Sun, 11 to 19 hrs. picturesque and tranquil Serves classic Mexican dishes towns surrounded by open SABOR DE LUNA and offers a friendly, fun atmo- countryside and agricultural Guadalupe I. Ramírez 180; 5489 sphere popular among families land where 84 different 6407; www.sabordeluna.com; with children. varieties of crops are grown.

XOCHIMILCO, MILPA ALTA, TLÁHUAC AND CUAJIMALPA 21 MILPA ALTA A rural borough of small towns on the edge of the city, famous for the Mole Fair held every October in the village of San Pedro Acto- pan. More than 500 exhibitors, producers from the area and from other states such as Oaxaca, Puebla and Michoacán, set up stalls where you can taste the mole, a thick sauce prepared with a ple- thora of ingredients that include cocoa, sesame seeds, plantains and dried chilies, and which comes in a variety of colors, from black and dark brown to green, orange, and red, in a wide variety of dishes. Milpa Alta also has beautiful plant markets, including a market of and prickly pears. It is also home to the Centro de Educación Ambiental Tepenahuac.

— WHERE TO EAT —

DON PANCHO 18 hrs. Typical Mexican cuisine in a Av. Hidalgo 68, San Pedro Ato- place popular with families, with a cpan; 5844 2455; daily, 9 to 19 playground and kids’ workshops. hrs. More than 50 years serving MUSEO DOLORES a wide selection of mole, and the LOS COMALES OLMEDO PATIÑO ideal place to try this delicious Av. Hidalgo 117, San Pedro Ato- Av. México 5843; 5555 0891; sauce in all its varieties, one of cpan. Grandma’s hearty home www.museodoloresolmedo. the most exquisite dishes in Mex- cooking; typical Mexican staples org.mx; Tue-Sun, 10 to 18 hrs. ican cuisine. and a fabulous dessert made Located in the former house of with mescal and prickly pear. a Mexican socialite and patron QUINTA SAN DIEGO of the arts whose extensive 1, San Pedro TLÁHUAC collection of Mexican art Atocpan; 5844 3927; Tue-Sun, 9 to Tláhuac is famous for the co- decorate the house. Houses lorful cele- the largest collection of Frida brations that take place on the MIXQUIC Kahlo paintings in the city, and first two days of November in there are also works by the small town of San Andrés Diego Rivera, Pablo O’Higgins Mixquic, when the parishio- and , as well ners celebrate the lives of as pre-Hispanic works of those no longer with us. Mass art. Close by is the village is held, people decorate the of Tepepan, the Santa tombs of their relatives and María Tepepan church and erect colorful altars in their ho- the former Convent of San mes, all decorated with orange Bernardino de Siena. marigold petals.

22 The fiesta of the patron saint San Andrés on November 30 includes processions, street stalls and fireworks. The Casa de Cultura de la Parroquia de San Andrés houses a small archaeo- logical site, Mixquixtli, in the interior patio, and which inclu- des various figurines and sculptures found during excavations here. San Pedro Tláhuac is the largest town of the seven that comprise the borough, with a beautiful plaza in the shade of CHURCH ANDRÉS PARISH SAN palm trees and dominated by the Church and Ex Convent of San Pedro Apóstol. Designed to resemble the Aztec rulers’ summer residence on the shores of , the Lago de los Reyes Aztecas is a park built around a lake and you can take a ride on a gondola-style boat for bird watching. There’s also a small museum exhibiting pre-Hispanic artifacts.

— WHERE TO EAT —

EL PUENTE Av. Tláhuac 4285, Tláhuac; 5842 7096; Mon-Fri, 9 to 17 hrs., Sat,

DESIERTO DE LOS LEONES DE LOS DESIERTO 8 to 13 hrs. Mexican snacks and staples, such as the classic chi- laquiles and golden fried tacos.

CUAJIMALPA The center of Cuajimalpa, with its square and bandstand, main- tains its small-town charm. A mostly rural borough and the ideal place for a day out to enjoy nature, the curiously named Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones is, rather than a desert or home to lions, a densely forested hill topped by the former Convent of the Barefoot Carmelite monks. The convent’s cloisters contain galleries that play host to exhibitions of contemporary art, and

there are guided tours of the building and the tunnels that burrow CARMELITE MONKS OF BAREFOOT CONVENT beneath it. The forested areas of the park are ideal for hiking and horseback riding, and you can satisfy your hunger by ordering a freshly fished trout prepared to your taste at Los Peteretes, or tra- ditional Mexican snacks at food market. Another park ideal for hiking or practicing sports is Parque El Ocotal.

XOCHIMILCO, MILPA ALTA, TLÁHUAC AND CUAJIMALPA 23 SE AZTEC STADIUM STADIUM AZTEC

SPECIAL EVENTS

Fun is guaranteed in Mexico City. A day hardly goes by when there isn’t an event or a show of some kind. The city is firmly on the tour route of world-renowned musicians The Aztec Stadium plays as the Vive Latino and Capital and artists, and the host of host to soccer matches, of lo- Corona events. The Auditorio big sporting events such as cal tournaments as well as the Nacional, on Paseo de la Refor- the marathon, with more national soccer team in inter- ma, is the city’s premier concert than 20,000 runners, and is national engagements. With a venue, while its Lunario is a also the home of first-divi- 104,000-capacity, the stadium smaller space hosting concerts sion soccer teams such as is also the perfect stage for in a more intimate ambiance. América, Pumas and Cruz large-scale concerts, and there Plaza Condesa, in the Condesa Azul. Theater, music, dance, are guided tours. In the Foro Sol neighborhood, is another live soccer, motor racing and and the Autódromo Hermanos music venue and whose stage horseracing; the city always Rodríguez, a car racing circuit, is graced by indie and alter- has a venue with the flood- there are large-scale concerts native musicians from around lights blazing. and live music festivals, such the world. One of the city’s most popu- lar soccer teams, , has its stadium in the Nochebuena neighborhood, close to Plaza México, the world’s largest bull-

CINETECA NACIONAL CINETECA ring. Film lovers must visit the Cineteca Nacional, a cinema complex screening both com- mercial and art-house films, as well as hosting film festivals and premiers, often with director and cast in attendance.

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