Index

2000 Vol105 Abraham, GD and A P: 211 Ang Tsering (aged 97 years): 249 Abruzzi, Duke of the: 211 , 8091m: 5f, 258 Adam Smith, Janet, OBE: obituary by Arctic: arts. 'Bishops, Actresses and Luke Hughes, 283, tributes by Witches ... ' by Tom Chamberlain, Roger Chorley, 286, Denise Evans, 71, 'Beneficiaries of Gino's Legacy' 287; obituary by J Adam Smith of by Jim Gregson, 80, MEF Report, Christine Bicknell CBE, 295. Plate 72 270 Africa: 94 (see also Morocco, Nigeria) Arunacha1 Pradesh: 239 Alaska: 262 Alian, lain: art. 'A Kind of Obsession: Bailey, Lt. Col. F M: 115, Plate 58 Climbing the Titan', 103; 360. Band, George: obit. of John Streetly, Plate 14 289, see Book Reviews, 304, AC Alien, Dick: his tribute to Charles Library Report, 347; 4, 20, 249, 356 Warren, 283; 344 Bartlett, Philip: see Book Reviews, AlIen, Rick: 59 310 Alpine Club: Officers & Committee, Baruntse (7168m) : 260 344, Office Bearers, 344, Meetings, Bae Seung You1 (Korean Alpine 345, Annual Dinner, 346, Honours Federation): 249 and Awards, 347, Library, 347, Beaumont, Bob: 15 Symposium ('Climbing into the Bermudez, Jose Luis: Area Notes Millennium'), 349, Meet at La edited by, 213; see Book Reviews Berarde, 354, Symposium (,Paki­ 323;20,360 stan'), 355, Guidebooks, 359 Bernese Oberland: 220 Alps, The: arts. 'Alps & Bhutan: 124 Pyrenees 1998-1999', 213 Bicknell CBE, Christine: obituary by Ama Dab1am, 6828m: 260 the late Janet Adam Smith, 295 America, North: art. 'North America Bishop, Sir George: obituary by Roger 1999', 262, MEF Report, 266 Chorley, 296 America, South: MEF Report, 269, Boardman Tasker Memorial Award: (see also American Southwest, 347 Bolivia, Chile, Peru) Bolivia: art. 'Exploratory Climbing in American Southwest: art. 'A Kind of the Cordillera de Cocapata' by Obsession: Climbing the Titan', 103 Michae1 Smith, 138, map 140,plates Anderson, Ann: in art. 'The Story of 53-56; 269, 277 an Ice Axe', 194 Bonington, Sir Christian, CBE: his Andes (Peru): arts. 'Lightweight in the book (with Charles C1arke) Tibet's Andes' by Pav1e Kozjek, 85, Secret Mountain. The Triumph ofSepu 'Cordillera Central, Peru' by Evelio Kangri reviewed by Phi1 Bartlett, Echevarria, 131, map, 133 310, and see Book Reviews 306; Ang Rita Sherpa: 260 4,6,62,349

365 366 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2000

Book Reviews: Viewfrom the Summitby Sir Edmund Summit. Vittorio Sella, Mountain­ Hillary, reviewed by George Band, eer andPhotographer, the years 1879­ 304 1909. Preface by Ansel Adams, Classic Dolomite Climbs by reviewed by John Cleare, 321 Anette K6hler & Norbert Memmel, Tibet's Secret Mountain. The reviewed by Michael Mortimer, 319 Triumph of Sepu Kangri by Chris The Rwenzori Mountains National Bonington & Charles Clarke, Park, Uganda Exploratiop, Environ­ reviewed by Phil Bartlett, 310 ment& Biology, Conservation Manage­ High Exposure: An Endun'ng Passion ment and Community Relations, for Everest and Unforgiving Places by Eds. Henry Osmaston, Joy David Breashears, reviewed by Tukahirwa, Charles Basalirwa, Terry Gifford, 317 Jockey Nyakaana, reviewed by Last Climb - The legendary Everest John Temple, 328 expeditions of George Mallory by The Totem Pole by Paul Pritchard, David Breashears and Audrey reviewed by Val Randall, 309 Salkeld, reviewed by Luke Hughes, Regions ofthe Heart. The Triumph 330 and Tragedy ofAlison Hargreaves by Distant Mountains. Encounters with David Rose & Ed Douglas, the World's Greatest Mountains, reviewed by Val Randall, 325 photography by John Cleare, Darkness and the Azure by Anne reviewed by Lindsay Griffin, 315 Sauvy, reviewed by Terry Gifford, Creagh Dhu Climber: the Life and 314 Times ofJohn Cunningham by Everest: The Man and the Mountain Jeff Connor, reviewed by Robin by JR Smith, reviewed by Michael Campbell, 313 Ward,318 High Achiever. The Life and Climbs of A Slender Thread: Escaping Disaster by Jim Curran, in the Himalayas by Stephen reviewed by Kev Reynolds, 306 Venables, reviewed by Jose Lost on Everest - The Search for Bermudez, 323 Mallory & Irvine by Peter The Colour ofthe Black Mountains Firstbrook, reviewed by Luke by Emile Zopfi, reviewed by Terry Hughes,330 Gifford, 337 Mesolcina - Spluga by Allesandro Botchkov, Dimitri: art. 'Mountain­ Gogna and Angelo Recalcati, eering in the Tien Shan. An reviewed by Lindsay Griffin, 312 Historical Survey', 26; iv, 360 Slack: The Fun ofClimbing Boulter, Paddy: obituary of John by Dennis Gray, reviewed by Flavell Coales, 298 Ed Douglas, 329 Braham, Trevor: in art. 'The Story of Top Climbs ofthe World by Garth an Ice Axe', 190, historical note, Hattingh, reviewed by Lindsay 198, note on Himalayan Club Griffin, 326 Tiger's Badge, 248 Ghosts ofEverest. The authorised Brain, Yossi: iii, 277 story ofthe search for Mallory & Braithwaite, Paul (Vice President): Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Larry 344 A Johnson & Eric Simonson, Breashears, David: his book High reviewed by Luke Hughes, 330 Exposure: An Enduring Passion for INDEX 367

Everest and Unforgiving Places Coa1es, John Flavel1: obituary by reviewed by Terry Gifford, 317, his Paddy Boulter, 298 book (with Audrey Sa1ke1d) Last Co1e, John: obituary of Scott Climb - The legendary Everest Russell, 300 expeditions of George Mallory Collie, J N: 210 reviewed by Luke Hughes, 330 Connor, Jeff: his book Creagh Dhu Bregaglia: 220 Climber: the Life and Times ofJohn British Council: 361 Cunningham reviewed by Robin Broad Peak, 8047m: 251 Campbell, 313, short-listed for Brown, Les: 94 Boardman Tasker Award, 347 Buhl, Hermann: 7 Continental United States: 264 Cool, Kenton: 51 Campbell, Robin: see Book Reviews, Cox, David: 15 313, 338, atAC Annual Dinner, 346 Croston, Roger: art. 'The Letter', Camper, Adriaan Gil1es (1759­ about a newly-discovered letter 1820) : in art. 'The Fifth Ascent written by GL Mallory, 159; 360 ofMont Blanc', 177 Cunningham, John: see Book Canada: 263,266,268 Reviews, 313 . Card, Frank: art. 'The Triumphs and Curran, Jim: his book High Achiever. Tragedy of Doc Graham', 200; iv, The LifeandClimbs ofChris Bonington 360. Plates 45-47 reviewed by Kev Reyno1ds, 306, Caucasus: 15f, 210, 225 short-listed for Boardman Tasker Central Asia: art. 'Russia and Central Award,347 Asia 1999',225, MEF Report, 274 Czok, Andrzej: 43 Chamberlain, Richard: art. 'Bishops, Actresses and Witches ... " 71, map Dawa Chirring: on Maka1u with Alan 74;270,360 Hinkes, 60. Plate 13 Chamonix: 177ff Dhau1agiri, 8167m: iii, 258, 260, 361 Chapman, Robert Wi11iam (1881- Diran (7257m): in art. 'The Story of 1960) and Katherine Chapman: 167 an Ice Axe', 190, map, 192; 253 Chetnikov, Niko1ai: 34 Dolomites: 222, 319 Chile: 88 (see Fitzroy) Douglas, Ed: Foreword, iii, his book China: MEF Report, 272 (with David Rose) Regions ofthe Chorley, Roger (The Lord Chorley): Heart. The Triumph and Tragedy of tribute to Janet Adam Smith, 286, Alison Hargreaves reviewed by Va1 obituary of Sir George Bishop, 296 Randall, 325, short-listed for , 8201m: 258,260 Boardman Tasker Award, 347, Cichy, Leszek: 40f. Plate 23 see Book Reviews 329; 344, 360 C1arke, Charles: his book (with Chris Doy1e, Michae1: art. 'Kagoro West Bonington) Tibet's Secret Mountain. Wall' ,99; 361. Plate 52 The Triumph ofSepu Kangri, reviewed by Phi1 Bartlett, 310 Echevarria, Evelio: art. 'Cordillera C1eare, John: book DistantMountains. Central, Peru',131, map 133; 361 Encounters with the World's Greatest Emlyn Jones, J H: obituary of Mountains, reviewed by Lindsay Frederic Sinc1air Jackson, 292 Griffin, 315; see Book Reviews, 321 Evans, Denise: tribute to Janet Adam C1yma, Ju1ie-Ann: 274, 350, plate 65 Smith,287 368 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2000

Everest (see ) map 82, 'Greenland 1999', 230, Everest, George: book Everest: The MEF Report, 270 Man andthe Mountain by JR Smith, Greenwood, Ashley & Rosemary: 64 reviewed by Michae1 Ward, 319 Gregory, Dave: and BoardmanTasker Award,347 Fagan, Patrick (Vice President): 344 Gregson, Jim: art. 'Beneficiaries of Fanshawe, Andy: 62 Gino's Legacy', 80, map 82; 361. Far East, The: MEF Report, 274 Plates 26-28 Firstbrook, Peter: his book Lost on Grieve, Seb: 352, Plate 68 Everest - The Search for Mallory & Griffin, Lindsay: art. 'Alps and Pyr­ Irvine reviewed by Luke Hughes, enees 1998-1999',213, (with David 330 Hamilton) 'Pakistan 1999', 250; Fitzroy (Chile): art. 'When Hell see Book Reviews, 312, 315, 326; Freezes Over' by Andy Fitzpatrick, 344, 355, 361 88, Plate 2 (Frontispiece) Guidebooks: 359 Fletcher, Sir Frank (1870-1954): 168 Fordham, Derek: art. 'Greenland Habeler, Peter: 45 1999',230 Hall, Jim: 88ff, 269 Fowler, Mick: art. 'Arwa Tower', 51; Hamilton, David: art. (with Lindsay 240,271,349,361. Plates 11,12,69 Griffin) 'Pakistan 1999',250; 355, 361 Garhwal: art. 'Arwa Tower', 51; Hankinson, Alan: and Boardman 239 Tasker Award, 347 Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak), 8068m: Hargreaves, Alison: see Book 251 Reviews, 325; iv Gasherbrum n, 8035m: 251 Harris, Jeff: his report on AC Meet at Gasherbrum IV (7925m): 251 La Berarde, 354 Gaurisankar (7134m): 62 Harrison, Ginette: iii, 258, 277 German Alpine Club: 8 Haston, Stevie: 352, Plate 63 Gifford, Terry: see Book Reviews Hattingh, Garth: Top Climbs ofthe 314,317,337 World reviewed by Lindsay Gill, Dr MS: 248 Griffin, 326 Gogna, Allesandro: his book (with Heinrich, Andrzej: 37 Angelo Recalcati) Mesoldna­ Hemmleb, Jochen: his book (with Spluga reviewed by Lindsay Griffin, Larry Johnson & Eric Sirnonson) 312 Ghosts ofEverest. The authorised story Gollancz, Livia: 348 ofthe searchfor Mallory & Irvine Graham, Flight Lt. Desmond: in reviewed by Luke Hughes, 330; 347 art. 'The Triumphs and Tragedy of Hillary, Sir Edmund: his book Doc Graham' by Frank Card, 200. View from the Summit reviewed by Plates 45-47 George Band, 304; 45 Gray, Dermis: his book Slack: The Fun Himalaya: arts. '25 Years of Winter ofClimbing reviewed by EdDouglas, in the Hirnalaya' about Polish 329 winter climbing, 35; 'Less is More' Greenland: arts. 'Bishops, Actresses on environmental problems, 153, and Witches ... ',71, map 74, other arts. 21, 51, 59,113,124, 'Beneficiaries of Gino's Legacy', 80, MEF Reports - India, 271, China INDEX 369

& Tibet 272; Book Review, 323 authorised story ofthe search for Hima1ayan Club Tiger's Badge: 248 Mal/ory & Irvine reviewed by Luke Hima1ayan Index: 349 Hughes, 330; 347 Himacha1 Pradesh: 244 Jones, Crag: 51 Hinkes, Alan: art. 'Fourth Time Jones, Trevor: 94 Lucky on Maka1u', 59; 259,350, 361. Plate 13 KZ, 8611m: 250 Hodge, Don: obit. of Stephen Paul Kangchenjunga, 8586m: iii, 62, 259 Miller, 291 Kanjiroba, 6882m (): art. Hodgkin, Robin: art. '1937 and the 'About Kanjiroba', 21. Map 23. Pull of Ushba', 14; iv, 361 Plates 15-17 Horton, Paul: art. 'North America Kapadia, Harish: 51, art. 'India 1999',262 1999', 239; 362 Hou1ding, Leo: 352, Plate 64 Karakoram: art. 'The Story of an Ice Howell, lan: in art. 'A Kind of Obses Axe', 190, MEF Report, 273. sion: Climbing the Titan', 103. (See also Pakistan) Plate 14 Kemp, Dennis: in art. 'The Story of Hoyte, Chris: in art. 'The Story of an an Ice Axe', 190, Plates 41-44 Ice Axe', 190 Khan Tengri , 6995m (Tien Shan): Huber, A1ex: art. 'The Ethical Res­ 28,33,227 ponsibility ofAlpine Associations' Kingdon-Ward, F: 118 147; 353, 362. Plate 67 Kinthup (K.P): 127, Drawing, 128, Hughes, GD (Hon. Sec): 344 Plate 57 Hughes, Luke: his obit. of Janet Adam Kirkpatrick, Andy: art. 'When Hell Smith, 283, Book Reviews, 330 Freezes Over', 88, iv, 269, 362. Plate2 Hunt, John: 5,47 Knott Paul: arts. 'Moroccan Climb­ ing: Rock, Sun and Snow', 94, India: art. 'India 1999', 239 'Russia and Central Asia 1999', Indian Hima1aya: art. 'India 1999', 225;268,362 239, MEF report, 271 K6hler, Anette: see Book Reviews, Indian Hima1ayan Millennium 319 Person (Eric Shipton): 249 Kozjek, Pavle: art. 'Lightweight in the Inouye, Shigeharu: art. 'The Story of Andes', 85; 362. Plates 48-50 an Ice Axe', 190; iv, 362 Kukuczka, Jerzy: 43f. Plate 25 Isherwood, Dick: art. 'Of Jimmy and Kurtyka, Voytek: Plate 24 the Tchador' 63; 24, 362 Kyrgyzstan: 68 Iwazaki, Hiroshi: in art. 'The Story of an Ice Axe', 190 Ladies Alpine Club Index: 348, 356 Ladakh:246 Jackson, Frederick Sinc1air: obituary Lawford, Bob: 344, 348 by JH Em1yn Jones, 292, tribute by Lewis, Nick: 88ff, 269. Plate 2 Michae1 Ward, 294 , 8516m: 6, 36f, 59,258 Jamie, Kath1een: and Boardman Lovatt, DJ (Hon. Librarian): 344 Tasker Award, 347 Johnson, Larry A: his book (with MacNae, Andy: 361 Jochen Hemmleb & Eric McNaught-Davis,lan: attends IMF's Simonson) Ghosts ofEverest. The Millennium Meet, 249 370 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2000

Madagascar: MEF Report, 276 the Mountain by JR Smith, reviewed Makalu, 8643m: art. 'Fourth Time by Michael Ward, 318, Last Climb­ Lucky on Makalu' by Alan Hinkes, The legendary Everest expeditions of 59; 6, 258. Plate 13 George Mallory by David Breashears Mallory, Berridge: 14f, Plate 22 and Audrey Salke1d, reviewed by Mallory, Clare: 14f, Plates 21, 22 Luke Hughes, 330, Lost on Everest­ Mallory, George Leigh: in art. 'The The Search for Mallory & [rvine by Letter' by Roger Croston, 159, in Peter Firstbrook, reviewed by Luke book reviews by Luke Hughes, Hughes, 330, Ghosts ofEverest. The 330ff; iii, 256, 348 authorised story ofthe search for Manas1u, 8163m: 258 Mallory & [rvine by Jochen Masherbrum, 7821m: 252 Hemmleb, Larry A Johnson & Eric Masuyama, Dr (Japanese Alpine Simonson, reviewed by Luke Club): 249 Hughes, 330; iii, 5ff, 35ff Mauduit, Chantal: iv Mount Everest Foundation: Reports Meijer, Miriam C: art. 'The Fifth summarised by Bill Ruthven, 266 Ascent ofMont Blanc', 177; 363 Mummery, A F: 4 Memmel, Norbert: see Book Reviews, Murray, Basil Andrew (1902 -1937): 319 168 Menlungtse West (7014m): 62 Murray, Denis George (1892 -1930): Merz, Johanna: 347, and LAC Index, 169 356,363 Murray, Prof. Gilbert (1866-1957): Messner, Reinhold: art. 'An Essay for 160f, 170f the New Millennium', 3; iv, 45, 353, Murray, Leo: 63ff 363 Mexico: 265 Nakamura, Tamotsu: art. 'Snow Millennium Meet (IMF): 249 Peaks and Deep Gorge Country', Millennium Symposium (AC): 349 113, 363. Maps, 114, 120, 121 Miller, Stephen Paul: obituary by Don Plates 32-40 Hodge, 291 Nanga Parbat, 8125m: 4, 254 Minapin (see Diran) Nepal: arts. 'About Kanjiroba' by Mont Blanc: art. 'The Fifth Ascent of John Tyson, 21, map 23, 'Nepal Mont Blanc' by Miriam C Meijer, 1999' by Bill O'Connor, 256 177;207 Nigeria: art. 'Kagoro West Wall' by Mont Blanc Massif: 214, 217 Michae1 Doy1e, 99 Mortimer, Michae1: see Book Norgay, Tenzing: 45 Reviews, 319 Noyce, Wilfiid: 14 Morocco: art. 'Moroccan Climbing: Rock, Sun and Snow' by Paul O'Connor, Bill: art. 'Nepal 1999', Knott, 94 256;363 Mountaineering Literature: Olech, Kazimierz: 43 13th International Festival, ? Order: 220 Mount Everest: books High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Pakistan: art. 'The Story of an Ice Unforgiving Places by David Axe', 190, MEF Report, 273, Sym­ Breashears, reviewed by Terry posium, 355. See also Karakoram. Gifford, 317, Everest: The Man and Pamir: 225 INDEX 371

Parkin, Andy: 352, Plate 66 by Dimitri Botchkov, 26, 'Unknown Parnell, Ian: art. 'Unknown Alone', Alone' by Ian Parnell, 68, 'Russia 68; iv, 275, 363 and Central Asia 1999' by Paul Pash, Richard: in art. 'Bishops, Knott, 225 Actresses and Witches ... ' Ruthven, Bill: MEF Expedition by Richard Chamberlain, 71; 270 Reports summarised by, 266; 364 Peru: arts. 'Lightweight in the Andes' Rutkiewicz, Wanda: iii, 35, Plate 4 by Pavle Kozjek, 59, 'Cordillera Rwenzori Mountains, The: 328 Central, Peru' by Evelio Echevarria, 131, map, 133 Salke1d, Audrey: her book (with Peyron, Michael: 94, 98 David Breashears) Last Climb - The Pobeda, 7439m (Tien Shan): 29, 33 legendary Everest expeditions ofGeorge Pritchard, Paul: his book The Totem Mal/ory reviewed by Luke Hughes, Pole reviewed by Val Randall, 309, 330; 17, wins American Alpine wins Boardman Tasker Award, 347 Club Literary Award, 346 I Pye, Sir David Randall (1886 -1960): Samant, Arun: 239, 247, obituary by 172 Aloke Surin, 302 Pyrenees: art. 'Alps and Pyrenees 1998­ Saunders, Victor: 20 1999',213 Sauvy, Anne: her book Darkness and the Azure reviewed by Terry Gifford, Ramsden, Paul: 88ff, 269 314 Randall, Val: see Book Reviews, 309 Schmatz, Hannelore: 41 and 325 Scotland: art. 'Scottish Winter 1998­ Recalcati, Ange10: his book (with 99',235 Allesandro Gogna) Mesolcina­ Scott, Doug, CBE (President): 271, Spluga reviewed by Lindsay Griffin, 344,349f 312 Scott Russell, Robert: obituary by Reynolds, Kev: BookReviews, 306, 316 John Cole, 301 Richardson, Simon: art. 'Scottish Sella, Vittorio:211,321 Winter 1998-99', 235; 363 Sepu Kangri: 311 Robin~on, AL (Hon. Treasurer): Sharpley, Walter: in art. 'The Story of 344 an Ice Axe', 190 Rose, David: his book (with Shipton, Eric: voted 'Indian Hirna­ Ed Douglas) Regions ofthe Heart. layan Millennium Person', 249 The Triumphand Tragedy ofAlison Siberia andthe Russian Far East: 228 Hargreaves reviewed by Val Randall, Simonson, Eric: his book (with 325, short-listed for Boardman Jochen Hemmleb & Larry A Tasker Award, 347 Johnson) Ghosts ofEverest. The Royal Geographical Society: 47, 348 authorised story ofthe search for Ruskin, John: death of, 211 Mal/ory & Irvine reviewed by Luke Russell, C A: art. 'One Hundred Hughes, 330, short-listed for Years Ago', 207, Plates 59-62; 364 Boardman Tasker Award, 347 Russell, Scott: obituary by John Cole, Ski Mountaineering: arts. 71, 80 300 Slingsby, W C: 209 Russia: arts. '1937 and the Pull of Smith, J R: his book Everest: The Man Ushba' by Robin Hodgkin, 14, and the Mountain reviewed by 'Mountaineering in the Tien Shan' MichaelWard,318 372 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2000

Smith, Michae1: art. 'Exploratory Tyson, John, OBE, MC: art. 'About Climbing in the Cordillera de Kanjiroba', 21, Map 23, Plates 15­ Cocapata, Bolivia' 138. Map, 140. 17.364 Plates 53-56. His report on the AC Millennium Symposium, 350; 364 Urquart, Francis Fortesque 'Sligger' Sondheimer, Ernst: his translation of (1868-1934): 174 an article by Alex Huber, 147 Ushba (Caucasus): 16, Plate 3 Spantik, 7027m (Pakistan): 253 Streetly, John: obituary by George Venables, Stephen: his book Band, 289. Plate 71 A Slender Thread: Escaping Disaster Surin, Aloke: obit. ofArun Samant, 302 in the Himalayas reviewed by Jose Sustad, Steven: in art. 'Arwa Tower', Bermudez, 323 51,271. Plate 10 Suzuki, Masanori: in art. 'The Story Walker, Derek: and Millennium of an Ice Axe', 190 Sym posium, 354,becomes new Szafrrski, Rysiak: 39 President of the BMC, 356 Taylor, Michae1: 15,20 Ward, Michael, CBE: art. 'The Temple, John: see Book Reviews, 328 Exploration of the Tsangpo River Templeman, Geoffrey: Book Reviews and its Mountains', 124, map125, compiled by, 304, In Memoriam his tributes to Charles Warren, 280, compiled by, 277; iii,364 and Frederick Sinclair Jackson, 294; Tetnuld (4974m): 19 and see Book Reviews, 318; 364 Thamserku (6608m): 259. Plate 51 Warr, Ted: in art. 'The Story of an Icf Thompson, Michael: art. 'Less is Axe', 190 More. How to be environmentally Warren, Charles: obituary by Oliver responsible in the Himalaya', 153; Turnbull, 278, tribute by Michae1 351,364 Ward, 280, tribute by Dick Allen, Tibet: art. 'SnowPeaks andDeep Gorge 282, 350. Plate 70 Country' by Tamotsu Nakamura, Wielicki, Krzysztof : 39f. Plate 23 113, maps 114, 120, 121; MEFReport, Wilson,Ken:3,353 272; 311 Wragg, B M: 346 Tien Shan: art. 'Mountaineering in the Tien Shan. An Historical Yunnan-Tibet: art. 'Snow Peaks and Survey' by Dimitri Botchkov, Deep Gorge Country' by Tamotsu 26;227 Nakamura, 113. Maps 114, 120, Tinker, Jon: 351 121. Plates 32-40 Titan, The (American Southwest): art. 'A Kind of Obsession: Climb­ Zanskar: art. 'Of Jimmy and the ing the Titan', 103. Plate 14 Tchador' by Dick Isherwood, 63, Toynbee, Professor Arnold Joseph Plates 29-31 (1889-1975): 173 Zawada, Andrzej: art. '25 Years of Trango Tower, 6237m (Karakoram): Winter in the Himalaya', 35; iv, 364 252 Plate 4 Tsangpo River (Tibet): in arts. 113, Zopfi, Emile: his book The Colour 124 oftheBlack Mountains reviewed by Turnbull, Oliver: his obituary of Terry Gifford, 337 Charles Warren, 278 Zurek, Krzysztof: 39