fphys-12-696335 June 29, 2021 Time: 18:22 # 1 ORIGINAL RESEARCH published: 05 July 2021 doi: 10.3389/fphys.2021.696335 Death Zone Weather Extremes Mountaineers Have Experienced in Successful Ascents Robert K. Szymczak1*, Michał Marosz2, Tomasz Grzywacz3, Magdalena Sawicka4 and Marta Naczyk5 1 Department of Emergency Medicine, Faculty of Health Sciences, Medical University of Gdansk,´ Gdansk,´ Poland, 2 Institute of Meteorology and Water Management – National Research Institute, Warsaw, Poland, 3 Institute of Physical Culture, Kazimierz Wielki University in Bydgoszcz, Bydgoszcz, Poland, 4 Department of Neurology, Faculty of Medicine, Medical University of Gdansk,´ Gdansk,´ Poland, 5 Department of Nutritional Biochemistry, Faculty of Health Sciences, Medical University of Gdansk,´ Gdansk,´ Poland Edited by: Background: Few data are available on mountaineers’ survival prospects in extreme Zbigniew Waskiewicz,´ Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical weather above 8000 m (the Death Zone). We aimed to assess Death Zone weather Education in Katowice, Poland extremes experienced in climbing-season ascents of Everest and K2, all winter ascents Reviewed by: of 8000 m peaks (8K) in the Himalayas and Karakoram, environmental records of human Martin Burtscher, survival, and weather extremes experienced with and without oxygen support. University of Innsbruck, Austria Peter Hackett, Materials and Methods: We analyzed 528 ascents of 8K peaks: 423 non-winter University of Colorado, United States ascents without supplemental oxygen (Everest–210, K2–213), 76 ascents in winter *Correspondence: Robert K. Szymczak without oxygen, and 29 in winter with oxygen. We assessed environmental conditions
[email protected] using the ERA5 dataset (1978–2021): barometric pressure (BP), temperature (Temp), wind speed (Wind), wind chill equivalent temperature (WCT), and facial frostbite Specialty section: This article was submitted to time (FFT).