Limoux Is Summer Meadows in a Glass

Liz Sagues: Wine Find over... ...restaurants in London on localsearch24. I Vineyards in cool, hilly Limoux and Clos Rocailleux mauzac blanc sec Limoux is summer meadows in a glass Localsearch24 business database October 2014 Limousin monks were first to use the fizz making method credited to Dom Perignon ine can be a fermentation was complete, l’oeil and sauvignon blanc. It’s vanity business, the bubbling would start again a thoroughly charming fizz, for there is no once spring sunshine banished light and pretty, with generous Wshortage of the winter chill. Thus second- mousse, scents of a meadow of companies fermentation-in-the-bottle summer flowers and lingering ready to put individuals’ fizz was born, more than a freshness. names on bottles to mark century before Dom Pérignon Martinolles is one of the special occasions. On my desk was popularly credited with newest estates in the Paul Mas today there’s an example: its discovery. Limoux legend empire, and it’s a shame that “Cuvée Prestige Liz Sagues even says that champagne’s the bubble-free pure mauzac, 1994”. Not a year I’d planned hero learned his vinification a fascinating, grown-up and to celebrate (despite a major techniques at Saint-Hilaire. very drinkable wine, isn’t yet birthday), just the vintage of a Mauzac is native to Limoux available here. case of fizz I happened to win and nearby Gaillac. The grape But there’s a rival from in a consumer competition. has green-apple flavours and Gaillac. English emigrés The first five bottles had high acidity which contributes Jack and Margaret Reckitt been despatched way back, to its potential for ageing and are fans of the grape, but this one was overlooked – bubble-creation. But those important among a number until a few days ago. Though characteristics also mean that of heritage varieties on their made like champagne, it young mauzac wines can be 13-hectare estate: “It makes wasn’t a posh wine. It came crunchingly engaging – proved brilliantly dry, fresh wines from southern France, from by the popularity here in the that have a floral complexity cool and hilly Limoux just 1980s of Gaillac perlé. and subtlety.” Their Clos north of the Pyrénées, not That wasn’t proper fizz, Rocailleux 2013 mauzac blanc the hotter, flatter vineyards but had a lightly petillant sec (redsquirrelwine.com, £13) close to the sea. So how character which made it has hints of herbs alongside would it be, two decades on? a good aperitif, and The the flowers, combines delicacy Remarkably good, Wine Society’s current with depth of flavour and surprisingly. While the Gaillac Perlé Esprit de again is characteristically intense golden colour Labastide (£5.95) is a fresh. and nutty edge to the happy re-creation: zesty There are further flavour indicated and refreshing, low sources of mauzac-rich oxidation, there were in alcohol and utterly blanquette de Limoux, both some decent fine summery. dry and sweeter méthode bubbles and a touch But there is serious ancestrale (the region’s still of fresh fruit. champagne-method other fizz, crémant, is a more That freshness was mauzac around, also conventional chardonnay- largely due to the at bargain prices. Like based blend). Try these: predominant grape, the Esprit, Chateau stonevine.co.uk (Laurens, mauzac, used since Martinolles Blanquette £12.75), goodwineonline.co.uk the early 16th century de Limoux (Jeroboams, (Mayrac, £13) tanners-wines. when the monks of the £10.95) includes just a co.uk (Rives-Blanques, £14.30), Abbey of Saint-Hilaire little of other grapes, sohowine.co.uk (Prima Perla, in Limoux discovered chenin blanc and £12.50) thewinesociety.com that if newly-made chardonnay rather than (Antech, £9.95). wine was bottled before the former’s loin de .

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