<<

-UP ANYWHERE is now widely established, so whether you’ve made the leap or are vegan-travel-curious, dip into this directory of ideas for worldwide inspiration

Mr & Mrs Watson in Amsterdam. Left: 100 per cent organic jackfruit carnitas taco bowl at Gracias Madre, LA

Jaffa sunset surfers in Tel Aviv. Right: Vegan Pastrami with homemade and fresh at Krowarzywa, Warsaw. Opposite: The mac pack (mac’n’ creamy cashew cheese) with truffle & mushroom, sundried tomato & olive, and & onion, at Parka Co, Toronto PHOTOGRAPH: PARKA FOOD CO PHOTOGRAPHS: WESSEL DE GROOT, PEETER VIISIMAA/GETTY IMAGES

80 January 2020 January 2020 81 Downtown Los Angeles VEGAN TRAVEL from Lincoln Heights. Left: South East Asian traveller bowl from Rupert’s Street, London

APPS FOR YOUR TRIP F HappyCow App mapping vegan and vegan-friendly LONDON, MILAN, LOS ANGELES, The Dutch Weed Burger: TOP EATS even greater proportion the world, and plant- restaurants and stores If you know where to USA the latter more innocent F Eden Bistro under 35, regularly opt based is a way of life, so worldwide. There seem to be vegan look, there are dedicated LA respects all those than it sounds (it’s a A of creative for vegan think beyond hummus happycow.net options in easy range of outlets vegan who consider the body a ‘House of Seaweed’). vegan food and organic alternatives, and and falafels and prepare every Tube stop: fancy burgers with pink buns temple. If Los Angelenos TOP EATS wine. Try its delicious Toronto’s chefs are to be wowed. F V Cards: Vegan Ethiopian, Caribbean, or Michelin-starred don’t have a plant- F Vegan Bar take on laksa . catering for plant-centric TOP EATS Abroad Asian or Japanese vegan haute in friendly lifestyle, This bar serves healthy The leafy ambiance is eating like never before. F Sultana Free app with scripts in cuisine? What about the ultra-stylish locations, they’re familiar with it. ‘junk food’. Plant-based not just for show – it sells TOP EATS For that roasted-meat-on- more than 100 world’s first vegan not to mention super- TOP EATS burgers are best-known, and some of the F Parka Food Co. a-spit experience (minus languages explaining chicken shop? Even fresh vegetables. F Crossroads but you can also have artisan ceramics that the Burgers made from the flesh), head to that you’re vegan and Hut offers vegan TOP EATS At this favourite of movie sashimi made from food is served on. Eden marinated portobello Sultana, a vegan what you don’t cheese at its UK outlets. F Alhambra stars, dine on tapioca, fruity cocktails is at the back of Dom mushrooms and shawarma joint. Stuff eat. Select the relevant TOP EATS This no-frills place is with almond ricotta or and CBD-infused juice. Funckjonalny, a 1928 blackened cauliflower; your pitta with roasted card to show the waiter. F Rupert’s Street brimming with food that’s fried ‘chicken’ and veganjunkfoodbar.com villa designed by mac ‘n’ (vegan) cheese seitan (cooked wheat vegan.cards Rupert’s Street van cruelty-free, healthy and waffles, or, later, F Mr & Mrs Watson modernist architect with toppings like truffle gluten) or skewered changes its menu delicious. The husband- cocktails and buffalo- Named after the couple Czesław Przybylski. mushroom and garlic and wild mushrooms, plus F Vanilla Bean regularly, highlighting and-wife team offer style maitake mushrooms who coined the term facebook.com/eden. onion; thick, flavourful a smattering of salads Plant-Based Food seasonal produce – you reinterpreted dishes from or vegan sliders. ‘veganism’, this restaurant bistroo soups. Everything’s made and pickles. Free app mapping could try celeriac and their homeland, , crossroadskitchen.com serves plant-based F Krowarzywa from scratch using local facebook.com/ vegan, raw and potato cottage pie or like creamy lentil F Gracias Madre, . The menu This burger specialist with ingredients. There are Sultanavegan/ gluten-free options, beetroot and chickpea and spicy samosas. Pay Los Angeles includes sloppy joe chilli a contemporary look and lots of gluten-free options. F 416 mainly in Europe and burgers. All packaging by weight, then have Try chimichanga with burgers and bitterballen minimalist furniture serves parkafoodco.com The concept is simple: North America. decomposes in less than a vegan tiramisu. (soy) chorizo or ‘better balls’ with Thai millet- or chickpea-patty F Fresh take comfort food vanilla-bean.com twelve weeks. alhambranaturale. squash-stuffed quesadilla coconut filling. burgers with a wide You’ll find all the favourites and serve them rupertsstreet.com wixsite.com with cashew crema. Don’t miss the signature variety of toppings, sides comfort-food faves here, with all the trimmings F Vegan Passport F Gauthier F Joia Seasonal produce is from cheese platters and and house-made juices. from tacos to burgers, (without harming any Also available as The UK’s first Michelin- Although there is dairy in the restaurant’s farm. fondue – it’s hard to krowarzywa.pl plus a range of salads, animals). Expect dishes a booklet, compiled starred venue with a some dishes, most of the gracias-madre.com believe it’s not real! smoothies and juices. like mushroom schnitzel by , vegan tasting menu. food at this one-Michelin- watsonsfood.com TORONTO, Fresh has five locations baguette, vegan this explains dietary Alexis Gauthier starred restaurant is AMSTERDAM, across the city; Queen shawarma and even juicy preferences in turned vegan in 2016 vegan. Swiss-born chef WARSAW, Vegan neighbourhood, Street West is the original. seitan steak, served in a languages understood Daddy McChik’n at Vegan and converted the Pietro Leeman’s food There are plenty of vegan ‘Vegandale’ is a freshrestaurants.ca pan with potatoes and by 96% of the world’s Junk Food Bar in Amsterdam. tasting menu philosophy is -like offerings in Amsterdam The 50-odd vegan dedicated block of vegan onions. This guilt-free population. Above: Anacronismo (bavarois to ‘Vegan Menu: Les and, fittingly, his food – Vietnamese, Japanese, restaurants here include food, goods and services with porcini and pumpkin, TEL AVIV, indulgence makes 416 vegansociety.com/ Plantes’. It’s been a has to be experienced Caribbean – along with Mexican, sushi, burgers, and its own touring salad, and crust of white polenta ISRAEL popular with vegans and resources/lifestyle/ fixture ever since. to be believed. restaurants such as French bakeries and festival. More than half flavoured with cumin) at Joia, Milan Israel has the highest non-vegans alike. travel/vegan-passport gauthiersoho.co.uk joia.it Meatless District and Polish comfort food. of Canadians, and an CHONES/SHUTTERSTOCK STREET, SARAH BARDSLEY/RUPERT’S PHOTOGRAPHS: proportion of vegans in 416.co.il

82 January 2020 January 2020 83 VEGAN TRAVEL

NEW YORK local ingredients, not to juices and craft beers F Towzen CITY, USA mention a lot of vegan from Parisian brewery A 20-minute bus ride Whether you’re looking retreats in glorious BapBap. Seasonal veg, from the city centre, in a for vegan restaurant tropical locations. seeds and edible flowers house near Shimogamo- chains, fine dining, TOP EATS are used in dishes like jinja shrine, TowZen is burgers, crêpes or F Seeds of Life roast plantains with famous for its robust doughnuts, New York In the spiritual heartland and vegan ramen. Two City wholeheartedly of Ubud, this raw vegan polenta, a black-bean- must-try varieties are embraces your needs. café serves some of the and-wild- burger, musashi (a thick soy-milk, Though the Upper West most creative vegan food and roast pineapple with kelp and soy- broth Side may have limited anywhere: fermented carob foam. Gluten-free with sansho¯ pepper, choices, other veggie sliders, creamy- options are plentiful. yuba slices, mushrooms neighbourhoods have sour laksa soup with abattoirvegetal.fr and acidic plum paste), the city’s go-get-’em courgette noodles, F Raw Cakes and tantanmen, which attitude – a ‘vegetable beetroot ‘rawvioli’. A pretty lavender and uses the same broth but slaughterhouse’, for The place is also known fuchsia-pink façade with chilli paste and instance – and where for its elaborate health fronts this much- soya-meat. else on Earth would you tonics with ingredients welcomed café and cake mamezen.com find a café with vegan such as peony root shop where everything sleeping-pods for when and astragalus. is 100 per cent vegan, PORTLAND, you need a nap? theseedsoflifecafe.com gluten-free and raw. OREGON, USA TOP EATS F Kokolato Enticing nut and The vegan dedication is BLOGS F The Cinnamon Snail This Ubud vegan chickpea burgers, strong in Portland. It has Top to bottom: Mushroom F burritos, French company’s desserts are veggie-packed an entire mall that’s The Nomadic Vegan skewer in a pitta, Sultana, toast… it’s all heavenly served in restaurants and -sized salads Wendy Werneth has Tel Aviv; stone path, Ubud; vegan, hosts a vegan visited more than 100 The Cinnamon Snail vegan at this New York truck. across the island in rub shoulders on the summer camp, sells countries, collating her food truck, New York City You want a Beastmode flavours such as smoky menu with fresh juices, vegan furniture, destination-specific Burger Deluxe? It’s a vanilla, raw cacao and smoothies and exquisite there’s a vegan punk vegan tips on an grilled ancho chilli seitan turmeric--lime. uncooked cakes. There’s club, a critically interactive world map. burger with a stack of kokolato.com always a full house for acclaimed fine thenomadicvegan.com relishes and sides, on a Sunday brunch. dining vegan pretzel bun. PARIS, rawcakesvegan.com restaurant, even F Vegan Travel cinnamonsnail.com a vegan strip An aggregate blog F Modern Love Not often considered KYOTO, club… you get where vegan travellers Celebrated chef Isa a top vegan-friendly the picture. share tips from recent Chandra Moskowitz’s destination, Paris has Due to its fondness for Portland also adventures. Country- ‘swanky vegan comfort changed significantly in fish, Japan may not be claims specific guides are food’ has been received recent years. Since April top of anyone’s list of divided into general with open, watering 2017, when the city’s vegan destinations, posts and individual mouths in Williamsburg. first vegan pastry shop, especially with restaurant reviews. The restaurant is a lovely VG Pâtisserie, started (fish broth) being used vegantravel.com date-spot with sultry selling as the master in lighting and immaculate delicacies, proving it was so many dishes. But F Burger Abroad service, while dishes possible to meet French ‘shōjin ryōri’ is a helpful The personal blog of include ‘mac ‘n’ shews’ standards, the scene has phrase here: it’s a full-time vegan traveller (with creamy cashew exploded. You’ll now find traditional style of Amanda Burger cheese), truffled poutine more than 60 totally animal-free includes illustrated and a lip-smacking vegan shops selling in Buddhist . destination tips Korean BBQ bowl with wares of all kinds. A modern vegan scene covering an enviable glazed and kimchi. TOP EATS has grown up in Kyoto number of cities. It’s always buzzing, so F Abattoir Vegetal in recent years. burgerabroad.com consider booking. Mint-green wrought-iron TOP EATS modernlovebrooklyn.com chairs and tables line the F Shigetsu pavement outside the Try traditional Japanese UBUD, BALI ‘plant slaughterhouse’ at this With no shortage of tofu (it occupies a former tatami-floored restaurant and tempeh on menus, shop), while the on the grounds of Bali is an easy choice for light, bright interior has Tenryu¯-ji temple. You’ll vegans, but Ubud is best bare-bulb downlights, get a series of delicate of all. As the island’s distempered walls and small dishes such as spiritual and cultural greenery-filled hanging sesame tofu, soy-braised Khao pad sapporot nexus, Ubud is all about baskets. Each day there’s mushrooms, soup (Thai pineapple fried feeding your soul. There a choice of three raw and and aubergine. rice) at Abattoir are plentiful raw food cooked organic dishes only. tenryuji.com/en/ Vegetal, Paris

options featuring fresh, per , cold-pressed PENATO LUCET PIERRE PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK NVELICHKO/ WINTER, LEEVI PHOTOGRAPHS: shigetsu/index.html

January 2020 85 VEGAN TRAVEL

to have the world’s first featuring animal- a solid second choice F Kebab all-vegan barbecue. friendly clothing stores. in Scotland), with In South Clerk Street, TOP 6 VEGAN TOURS TOP EATS TOP EATS incredible food, drink near the Meadows, F Portland Saturday F Pêle Mêle and products to enjoy karma kebab fills a F Samsara Vegan Travels Market Soups, tomato and tofu among a very supportive kebab-shaped hole in The best thing about Samsara Vegan Veggie-lovers delight in ciabattas and spelt vegan community. You Edinburgh’s vegan scene. Travels isn’t just the range of Portland’s enormous, burgers fill the entirely can even get a vegan Opened in 2018, this destinations (, Myanmar, wildly varied farmers’ vegan menu at Pêle haggis samosa, if you entirely plant-based, Vietnam, Nepal and Japan), but that market, its stalls heaped Mêle, with organic beer fancy it. organic, ethical opt-in activities and suggestions mean with locally grown or oat milk coffees to TOP EATS outlet serves seitan and you can customise your tour. delicacies such as drink. Book ahead for F Henderson’s Vegan falafel kebabs, and samsaravegantravels.com Willamette Valley the excellent Sunday Established in 1962, vegan poutine (chips, hazelnuts and organic brunches. Henderson’s is the vegan gravy and vegan F Vegan Safari Africa marionberries, and pele-mele-berlin.de/cafe grandmother of cheese). Perfect for For animal-friendly eco-safaris in foraged plants such as F Vegan Tours Berlin VEGAN SLEEPS Edinburgh’s vegetarian keeping you upright Botswana, look no further. Whether nettles and fiddleheads. In Berlin, the plant-based F Vegvisits restaurants. The food when you’re out on five-star luxury accommodation or portlandsaturday culinary scene is so This site helps you book is mostly organic and the tiles. cheaper, authentic tenting experiences, market.com diverse that different stays in the homes of guaranteed GM-free, karmakebab.co.uk Vegan Safari Africa has all budgets F Prasad neighbourhoods demand plant-based eaters, get and special dietary F Intrepid Vegan Food covered. There are a range of options Prasad’s location inside separate tours. Follow recommendations for requirements can be GHENT, Adventures for spotting wildlife in its natural a yoga studio tells you a Vegan Food Tours local restaurants and catered for. Trays and Intrepid Travel, known for ethically habitat, from tiny white frogs in the lot. Healthy, hearty through edgy markets, or book a counter service lend Claiming to be the first minded, small-group adventures, Okavango to the famous Big Five. salads, bowls and Friedrichshain, by the hour to something of a 1970s city in the world to has recently updated its Real Food vegansafariafrica.com smoothies come in every multicultural Neukölln cook for yourself. canteen feel to the place introduce a meat-free Adventures with tours for vegan shade of green: try the or join the shorter, vegvisits.com (in a good, pleasantly day of the week (Veggie gastronomes: eight-day trips to India, F Vegan Cruises and Tours Dragon Bowl (brown snack-fuelled tour of nostalgic way), and the Thursday, funded by the Thailand or Italy. The emphasis is on Though some people may think a vegan rice or , beans, Berlin Mitte. F Veggie daily salads and hot Flemish government in food – local experiences and hands-on cruise impossible, Vegan Cruises and steamed kale, avocado, vegantoursberlin.com Le Botaniste, Ghent. Website listing dishes are as popular association with Ethical cooking classes. It hopes to expand to Tours uses only new ships that have met sea vegetables, Below left: The Brandenburg gate in vegetarian and vegan as ever. Just round the Vegetarian Alternatives), all-vegan accommodation options. environmental guidelines and water cabbage-apple kimchi, EDINBURGH, Berlin, ‘vegan capital of the world’. hotels, B&Bs and corner on Thistle Street Ghent is one of the most intrepidtravel.com/uk/vegan-food- protection regulations, and never burn spring onions, hemp and SCOTLAND Below right: Utopian dream guesthouses in more is the 100 per cent easily navigable cities adventures heavy fuel. Choose from the Mekong (green papaya, carrots, kale, spring sesame seeds and your Edinburgh has become than 60 countries. vegan bistro for vegans. Plant-friendly Delta, , Myanmar or the onions and broccoli pad Thai) and choice of sauce) or Scotland’s vegan capital veggie-hotels.com Henderson’s Vegan. locales are mapped on F Vegan Epicure Travel Chilean fjords. sweet greens juice at Prasad in Harvest Salad (only recently eclipsing Portland, Oregon hendersonsofedinburgh. Ghent ’s website. Whether you’re after a half-day vegan-cruises.com (massaged kale, mixed Glasgow, if you’re after co.uk visit.gent.be excursion or a week-long global greens, sesame tempeh, escape, Vegan Epicure Travel has F VegThisCity rice, chickpeas, carrots, plenty of choice. Would you like Fancy a meat-free tour of pumpkin seeds, sesame a cycling tour of Provence? What Singapore with a local? VegThisCity seeds and sesame miso about a women’s wellness retreat offers four-hour tours, from street-food dressing). Breakfast in Sri Lanka? A food tour in the French to sampling from several cultures. options include a Riviera? A visit to a sanctuary of The tours are curated to highlight local delicious maple-chia rescued animals in California? communities and cultures, and to show waffle with vanilla The hardest bit will be choosing. the city’s innovative vegan cuisine. cashew cream. Drinks veganepicuretravel.com vegthiscity.com include gluten-free vegan beer, wine and cider. prasadpdx.com TOP EATS F Komkommertijd F Le Botaniste ‘Cucumber time’ (the THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK THE BERLIN, Chef Alain Coumante’s Flemish equivalent of VEGAN The honeymoon TRAVEL THE healthy sustainable ‘silly season’) is Ghent’s HANDBOOK VEGAN Lonely Planet shows you how to explore the world on a plant-based , from vegan cooking classes in India to wildlife watching tours in . TRAVEL

Whether you’ve been vegan for years or are travelling handbook cuisine is 100 percent vegan institution – a takeas one for the first time, this guide is packed with HANDBOOK Frequently cited as the insight and advice on our favourite vegan-friendly destinations, tours and experiences, and tips on An inspiring and practical guide where to go when, how to confidently order food and to vegan-friendly travel staying healthy on the road.

1st edition US $17.99 plant-based, 99 per cent away and all-you-can- UK £12.99 vegan capital of the - lonelyplanet.com world, Berlin’s strength is organic and all wines eat buffet bar. It’s run as a its thriving population of are natural. Everything co-operative – everyone vegans: at least 80,000 containing nuts or gluten who works there earns THE VEGAN TRAVEL and growing rapidly. is clearly marked on the the same hourly wage HANDBOOK, This is a city where you’ll menu. The no-reservations and has an equal say out now,is packed find not just vegan space offers pasta with in how the place is run. with advice on Lonely restaurants but ‘soylognese’ sauce, Choose from a variety Planet’s favourite businesses thinking Tibetan mama curry or of seasonal soups and vegan-friendly creatively about everyday ‘make your own’ bowls warm or cold vegan destinations, tours vegan needs: animal-free for which you can choose options at a fixed price, and experiences , hotels, bars your own base, sauce, and you can eat on the (£12.99; shop. and Schivelbeiner garnishes and toppings. terrace in good weather. lonelyplanet.com).

Strasse, a ‘vegan avenue’ @SNOOZE.AGAIN MAGNIFIQUE, TRAVEL/VEGGIE EPICURE VEGAN GILDERSLEEVE, NATALIE STOKES, JONATHAN PHOTOGRAPHS: lebotaniste.be komkommertijd.be

January 2020 87