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Transcending Transcending BORDERS D.O Transcending BORDERS DELICATO’S LUXURY TRANSCENDENT WINES PORTFOLIO SPANS THE GLOBE PHOTO: JEREMY BALL PHOTO: D.O. Valdepeñas D.O. La Mancha D.O. Rías Baixas The best from The perfect D.O. Toro each region choice The Pagos del Rey project Felix Solis is a family owned started in 2002 with the aim of winery devoted to the production making quality wines in the most of quality wines. Together with prestigious wine making regions the Pagos del Rey project, the in Spain. Wines with their own company has two wineries in the personality. most important appellations in the center of Spain; Valdepeñas and La Mancha. D.O.C. Rioja FRANCE Rías Baixas Rioja New blends Toro Spanish blends like Mucho Más Ribera del Duero and FYI are a growing trend MADRID Rueda internationally. These wines D.O. Ribera La Mancha del Duero are made with different grapes SPAIN of distinct vines and carefully PORTUGAL selected from top Spanish Valdepeñas regions. They offer a surprising modern profile and unique identity, in which the art of making wine is represented. Head office in Spain US Office Félix Solís Avantis S.A Félix Solís Avantis USA Autovía del Sur, km. 199 - 13300 Valdepeñas (Ciudad Real) Spain 477 Devlin Road, Suite 102 - Napa, CA 94558 Tel: +34 926 322 400 Tel. (707) 603 1270 www.felixsolisavantis.com [email protected] MARCH/APRIL 2021 Vol. 8 No. 2 THE SOMM JOURNAL PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF VP/SALES & MARKETING Meridith May Bill Brandel, CSW 818-322-5050 [email protected] [email protected] VP OF EDUCATION Lars Leicht MANAGING EDITOR SENIOR STAFF EDITOR [email protected] Ruth Tobias Kate Newton [email protected] [email protected] BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Faith Comas [email protected] VP/FINANCE DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS Anna Russell Cheron Cowan, Richard Carleton Hacker, Nell Jerome, Rachel Macalisang, [email protected] Michelle M. Metter, Kimberly Norris, Kate Nowell-Smith, Mona Shield Payne, Rafael Peterson, Allyson Reedy, Stefanie Schwalb, Rachel DelRocco Terrazas SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Michael Viggiano SENIOR CONSULTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Anthony Dias Blue Jeremy Ball, Wes Hagen, Karen MacNeil, David Ransom, Erik Segelbaum DEPUTY EDITOR Eric Marsh SENIOR WINE & BEER EDITOR Jessie Birschbach FOLLOW US! GLOBAL WINE EDITOR @SommJ • facebook.com/SommelierJournal • @SommJournal Deborah Parker Wong FEATURES EDITOR Published six times per year Michelle Ball ISSN 1944-074X USPS 02488i EDITORS-AT-LARGE The SOMM Journal is published bimonthly for $52 per year by The SOMM Journal, The Sommelier Journal, 6345 Balboa Blvd., Ste. 111, Encino, CA 91316. Randy Caparoso Periodicals postage at Van Nuys, CA, and additional mailing offices. Jonathan Cristaldi POSTMASTER: SUBSCRIPTION RATE: EAST COAST EDITOR $52 one year; $100 two years Send address changes to: Single copy: $10 The SOMM Journal Wanda Mann For all subscriptions, email: 6345 Balboa Blvd., Ste. 111 Encino, CA 91316 [email protected] LONDON CORRESPONDENT 818-990-0350 Steven Spurrier ©2021 The SOMM Journal, The Sommelier Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. Sommelier Journal USPS 024881, ISSN 1944-074X { SOMMjournal.com } 3 first press Brandy Branches Out Germain-Robin is made in small batches in manually operated Prulho pot stills. Fat Thumb, Speculator, and The Claim premium brandies from California-based Argonaut, a new label from E. & J. Gallo. 4 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } MARCH/APRIL 2021 PHOTOS COURTESY OF E. & J. GALLO WINERY GALLO OF E. & J. COURTESY PHOTOS California Brandy House, the first standalone tasting room dedicated to luxury California brandies, opened last fall in downtown Napa, CA, at 1300 First Street, Suite 309. Even during these ever-changing and challenging times, California brandies have retained a relatively steadfast position in the spirits marketplace. But the category is poised to undergo a dramatic revitalization and expansion thanks to the efforts of one of California’s winery giants—E. & J. Gallo. Founded in Modesto by brothers Ernest and Julio Gallo in 1933—the same year WITH ITS TWO Prohibition was repealed—E. & J. Gallo remains a family-owned company to this day, producing award-winning wines and spirits that encompass more than 100 different CALIFORNIA BRANDS, brands sold in over 100 countries. E. & J. Gallo made the savvy move to enter the domestic brandy market with its eponymous brand way back in 1975. But now, with the growth of the once-again E. & J. GALLO fashionable category, it’s extending its reach dramatically—from its 2017 acquisition of LAUNCHES A NEW Germain-Robin, California’s pioneering luxury brandy, to the recent launch of in-house premium entry Argonaut. (It has also ventured into the apéritif sector with Lo-Fi AGE FOR THE LONG- vermouth and amaro.) These distinctive product extensions mark an exciting new chapter in E. & J. Gallo’s BELOVED CATEGORY lengthy success story. To see how they appeal to modern consumers, we spoke with Britt West, vice president and general manager, spirits, for E. & J. Gallo; David Warter, lead BY RICHARD blender and distiller for Germain-Robin; and Rita Hansen, lead distiller for Argonaut. CARLETON California is famous for its wines, but how does California brandy fit into HACKER the overall picture as far as the consumer sees it? Britt West: There’s no argument that there was a lot to prove when we started reinvesting in premium California brandy. As spirit drinkers branch out and look for new things to enjoy, either in cocktails or for sipping, we’re seeing a growing interest in brandy. We are excited to offer wine drinkers something new to explore and to learn about [when it comes to] the multiple flavor profiles found in brandies distilled from flavorful California grapes. { SOMMjournal.com } 5 What were the reasons behind During the gold rush, a miner would open to California brandy’s popularity in the E. & J. Gallo’s expansion into his purse, offering barkeeps and merchants mid-1800s, crafted to ensure that all of the brandy, and how has the category to take a pinch of gold dust as payment. complexity and depth of brandy shows evolved into today’s upscale Germain- Those with fat thumbs would receive a through even in cocktails. Robin and Argonaut brands? more generous reimbursement. Similarly, BW: We have seized an opportunity for when I blend Argonaut Fat Thumb, I have What about Germain-Robin’s innovation. Unlike the constraints you have the luxury of drawing from our alembic California Alembic Brandy and with Cognac, American distillers have more brandy stocks. This blend has a higher Select XO Barrel—why would a mixolo- freedom in brandy making, particularly in percentage—or “fatter pinch” [in refer- gist select one over the other? choosing the grape varieties to create origi- ence to the story behind the name]—of DW: Germain-Robin brandies are crafted nal and distinctive styles and taste profiles. alembic brandy, resulting in [an expres- to be sipped [as though] straight from the We are one of the few countries that can sion] that showcases the rich character of grape source, [reflecting its journey from] use white and red grapes, which provide an those [stocks]. Saloon Strength is a nod the hand-distillation all the way through enormous and unique range of flavors that are found nowhere else in the world. David Warter: California is home to world-class vineyards and winemaking, so what better place to make brandy than in California? Traditionally, brandy is made from grape varieties that have relatively low fla- vor, like Ugni Blanc. Argonaut and Germain- Robin are distilled from more flavorful California grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Grenache, Barbera, French Colombard, Riesling, Viognier, and Sémillon sourced from top-notch California vineyards. Our distillation methods are also unique. Germain-Robin is made in extremely small batches using manually operated Prulho pot stills. Hubert Germain-Robin, being a fifth-generation distiller, personally taught our distillation team his secrets, which re- sult in an incredibly rich distillate. Argonaut . is a blend of alembic and column distil- lations[, which] allows our team to blend the fruit-forward column style with the rich alembic mouthfeel to create expres- sions unlike any other. For Germain-Robin, we utilize medium- plus-toasted wide-grain French oak barrels, using both new and older barrels to de- velop mouthfeel and dried fruit and nutty characters. For Argonaut, we age in ex- bourbon and wine barrels that allow us to introduce a wide range of oak notes. Once we decide on a final blend, the brandy is put back into older barrels to marry for around 12 more months before bottling. Where did the colorful Argonaut brandy names come from? Rita Hansen: [People taking part in the] California gold rush[, who were nicknamed “the Argonauts,”] searched for adventure and opportunity. We tapped into that spirit to explore what California brandy can be. 6 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } MARCH/APRIL 2021 Tasting Notes Argonaut Saloon Strength, California ($38) A 91-proof blend tailor-made for cocktails, with notes of spiced apple, pekoe tea, and cider that converge on the nose. The liquid warms the palate with a glassy entry that’s piqued by white-peppered papaya and apricot preserves. The orange-peel finish incorporates some cinnamon for an Irish whiskey–like flavor. 93 —Meridith May Argonaut Fat Thumb, California ($50) A reinvention of American- style brandy, this rich and delicious 86 proofer is a crowd-pleasing sipper with dreamy aromas of cream soda and maple-kissed peach. Germain-Robin products on display inside California Brandy House. There’s an echo of a fine Cognac style, with flavors of dark choco- late, dates, charred orange skin, and apple tart. 95 —M.M. [to] the aging process—seven years for GR and 12 years for XO.
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