DAMIEN SIMONIS

BARCELONA CITY GUIDE

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Off-the-wall Casa Batlló (p105) is one of Gaudí’s eye-catching masterpieces JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET

Sun-kissed and lapped by the Mediterranean, Barcelona is a dynamo where people work hard and play hard. A magnet for architecture buffs, foodies and night owls, it is a pleasure for all the senses.

Life pulsates at high pressure through the streets of this seaside city. An economic powerhouse, ‘Barna’ displays a zest for life, artistic genius and sense of style few cities can rival. It also seems to be in a permanent state of self-renewal, its skyline constantly altering as neglected districts come in for their beauty treatment. Barcelona’s medieval boom period left it with one of Europe’s most impressive Gothic lega- cies. Centuries later the Modernistas, led by Antoni Gaudí, cast an unparalleled whimsical Art Nouveau splash across the city. Today a phalanx of international design stars is adding to this impressive heritage with landmark 21st-century buildings. In this cauldron of culinary activity, monument-gazing can create a substantial appetite. Traditional restaurants and alfresco seafood eateries rub shoulders with designer dens run by the city’s avant-garde chefs. Barcelona’s hedonistic streak infects everyone, from the voluble gents playing dominos at La Barceloneta’s beaches to the gay bodybuilders sun-worshipping nearby. Club sounds waft over the sand from waterfront chill-out lounges. At night students pack century-old taverns while fashionistas sip caipirinhas in designer cocktail bars before hitting the clubs.

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000-intro-bar7.indd0-intro-bar7.indd 2 222/07/20102/07/2010 3:31:203:31:20 PMPM BARCELONA LIFE With 1.62 million inhabitants (and 3.4 million more in the greater Barcelona area), Barcelona is Spain’s second city. Compact and densely inhabited, it manages to exude a metropolitan and small-town air. It has some enviable trump cards: a beautiful medieval core, the wacky delights of Modernista architecture and a sunny disposition. The bulk of barcelonins wouldn’t live anywhere else. Many outsiders seem to agree – the city’s resident foreign population tripled between 2000 and 2008 but has since dropped a little, largely due to the world economic slowdown that has hit Spain especially hard. With 286,000 officially resident foreigners in the city, about 17.5% of the city’s population is of foreign origin, almost half Latin American and a quarter from elsewhere in the European Union. Tourism brings in millions more, although there has been a drop since 2007, with 6.7 million visitors arriving in 2008. Nonetheless, the sector employs some 80,000 people and generates up to €8 billion a year. The city’s leaders promote Barcelona as a business, conference and research centre. In March 2010, the Alba sincroton, or particles accelerator, was unveiled, which is one of the most im- portant scientific research centres ever established in Spain. Half the city’s visitors are there on business and Barcelona is second only to Milan in available trade-fair space in Europe. Sensitivity over regional identity is never far from Spanish political debates. A new devolution statute (the Estatut) hammered out in 2006 was held up in the Constitutional Court four years later, after the rightwing Partido Popular lodged an appeal against its constitutionality. Perhaps angered by this, hundreds of towns and villages across the region staged (in three waves) symbolic referenda on Catalan independence from December 2009 to April 2010. Little more than 20% of eligible voters turned out, although 95% of them voted in favour of independence. Barcelona did not participate. Another source of controversy is the high-speed railway tunnel to run 6km across the city centre in 2010–11 linking Estació Sants with Sagrera train station. The tunnel will run below streets flanking two Antoni Gaudí masterpieces: La Sagrada Família (p 102 ) and La Pedrera (p 104 ). As Mayor Jordi Hereu announced in 2010 that Barcelona would try to host the Winter Olympic Games in 2022, the father of that city’s 1992 Olympic effort and longtime head of the International Olympic Committee, Juan Antonio Samaranch, died aged 89 in April 2010.

IZZET KERIBAR RRET

Prepare your taste buds for a culinary explosion in a tapas bar (p168) 3

000-intro-bar7.indd0-intro-bar7.indd 3 222/07/20102/07/2010 3:31:223:31:22 PMPM THE AUTHOR

juice and a pastry (preferably something nice

Damien Simonis and creamy like a canya). A quick read of the In 1990, during a con- paper to find out where we stand on the latest tinental foray from a round of squabbling over Catalan autonomy, rain-sodden London, ETA, the bishops’ spat with the Socialists and Damien found him- FC Barcelona’s results and it’s time to hit the self in pre-Olympics streets. Barcelona. He had There are few monuments in the world like never before set foot La Sagrada Família, not only for its unique- in Spain. What was it ness but because it is one of the few where you about this town? The never quite know what this work-in-progress crowded produce will look like each time you happen by! A visit markets, the dimly lit to the Museu Picasso or the CaixaForum, to colmados (treasure caverns of all sorts of weird catch the latest temporary art exhibition, takes and wonderful foods), the gaily noisy terraces care of the day’s spiritual nourishment and where chatter mixed so easily with wine, the lunch beckons. Gaudí colours, the mysterious narrow lanes I head into the narrow lanes of La Barce- of the Barri Gòtic, the seaside? Perhaps it was loneta for a slap-up meal of fish or finger- all this and some unifying, indefinable qual- licking mariscos (seafood). The choice of area ity that got under his skin. Eight years later, has a double purpose, for what’s a day in Bar- Damien turned up in a Rambla-side pensión celona without a couple of hours’ lazing on the on assignment for Lonely Planet. And that beach? Time permitting, I like to wander back old magic started doing its work again. A chat through El Born, poking my nose into cheese with a fellow in a bar and he had a room in a and sweet shops, lingering for a glass of wine top-floor flat in Gran Via. Barcelona was for at La Vinya del Senyor and working my way years a second home for Damien and is now north to the Mercat de Santa Caterina. A little our restless correspondent’s main base. gourmet shopping here and off home for a late siesta before heading out again into the night. DAMIEN’S TOP BARCELONA DAY First, an elegant meal in one of the many A great way to kick-start the day is with every- gems scattered across the grid maze of one else, leaning up against a bar over a L’Eixample. From there, it’s a short taxi ride cafèamb llet (coffee with milk), an orange into the heart of the Barri Gòtic for some jazz at the Harlem. If the spirit is willing, another taxi whisks us up into the Zona Alta for a little LONELY PLANET AUTHORS clubbing at Sutton the Club. As dawn breaks, it is but a short, somewhat dazed, stroll home. Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travell ers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you’re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popu- lar spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They per- sonally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

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www.barnasants.com, in Catalan Each year the city’s main live-music venues Spanish and Latin host a bevy of Catalan, A key part of Sant Antoni of the festival Abat, the patron saint of domestic and of the Three carriage animals, is this Feast Circuits, a parade of horse-drawn carts in L’Eixample near the Mercat de Sant Antoni January. 17 every February BARCELONA VISUALSOUND www.bcnvisualsound.org, in Catalan together audio- brings 10-day festival This in a celebration of emerging visual creators stars in the making of anything from video to multimedia art. BARNASANTS REIS/REYES January is also (Epiphany) on 6 Epifanía known as the Reyes Magos (Three Kings’or simply Day), most importantReis/Reyes, perhaps the Accord- day on a Barcelona kid’s calendar. ing to tradition, this is when they receive has made heavy (although Christmas gifts holiday itself is quiet, but on inroads). The delight in the Cavalcada 5 January children Kings), of the Three dels Reis Mags (Parade a colourful dur- parade of floats and music, launched ing which countless sweets are from the floats into the crowds. FESTES DELS TRES TOMBS the warmer months. For a list of official public public official For a list of the warmer months. Barcelona,holidays in see January ANY NOU/ AÑO NUEVO (NEW YEAR’S DAY) d’Any/Noche Vieja Like Cap can create this occasion anywhere, Eve) Many but not always fulfil expectations. locals arrange parties in their homes as bars and clubs fill to bursting restaurants, Rowdy folks like bulls. wounded and charge de Catalunya. also gather around Plaça , most easily done by ) are limited to a particu- limited are 244 ). Many associate Barce- associate ). Many 6 1 (p

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a p t s - barri g n i t theatre or sport. Some envelop the entire city; the entire or sport. Some envelop theatre local other lively lar celona’s hand, or crowding into a mega-concert at the festivals. a plethora of Fòrum, the city proffers in colourful tradition, while steeped are Many modern affairs focused on concerts, are others activity in is more the year, although there of FESTIVALS Whether it’s being chased by fire-spitting giants, mean- demons or joining parades of Bar- of streets dering through the decorated and February. You stand a good chance of of stand You a good chance and February. and October striking rain from April to May through November. salubrious climes. It is certainly to come better time If beach around mid-June or September. is not a priority, you can easily find sunny (if in January visitors weather and fewer chilly) Barcelona is a year-round destination; as ideal Barcelona is a year-round a six- as for city break for a long weekend month sabbatical. It is a good idea to time a trip with one eye on events and the other on the weather (see as petty crime directed at tourists laden with as petty crime directed common. cameras and bags is, unfortunately, WHEN TO GO (see you busy for a week or more, but inevitablyyou busy for a week or more, to sim- your time will be dedicated some of and eateries bars, ply hanging out in cafes, Consider settingat the beach. aside a day or two for excursions it is full of mystery and invites you to spend and invites mystery it is full of and discovering. meandering long days of The monuments and museums, mainly con- could keep small area, in a relatively centrated Compact and easy to get around by public public around by to get easy Compact and to tourism transport, Barcelona is geared information on find plenty of and you will At the same tourist attractions. time, all major GETTING STARTED t lona with the summer sun, but August can broils and swarms – the city be a poor choice with tourists as the locals disappear to more train. Consider booking hotels, sought-after hotels, train. Consider booking home leaving before and shows restaurants e g - 3 16 GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO 003-getting-started-bar7.indd 16 M

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(Map 0 1 0 2 / 7 0 / 3 223/07/2010 10:18:53 AM . ) 140 (traditional Catalan folk (traditional Catalan (Map p sardanes , lined with several interesting restau- interesting , lined with several ) 100 rants, really comes to life for three days for three comes to life rants, really featuring in May with its folksy festival, concerts at tables set up and locals feasting along the lane. FESTA DE SANT PONÇ FESTA the patron saint of bee-To commemorate de keepers and herbalists, locals fill Carrer l’Hospital in El Raval on 11 May with the market. and bustle of a street chatter DEL PASSATGE FESTA PELLICER LLUÍS lane in L’Eixample intriguing little The FESTIVAL DE MÚSICA ANTIGA DE FESTIVAL BARCELONA www.auditori.com from mid-April to A month-long festival which reaches mid-May of ancient music, to create cultures back centuries and across a varied series of concerts at l’Auditori. May L’OU COM BALLA is an A curious tradition, the ‘Dancing Egg’ empty shell that bobs on top of the flower- of La fountain in the cloister festooned spectacle is Barcelona’s way This Catedral. of celebrating Corpus Christi (the Thursday Easter following the eighth Sunday after You Sunday), which can also fall in June. can see FERIA DE ABRIL DE CATALUNYA Andalucía comes to town with this tradi- staged by and for tional southern festival population. It lasts the city’s big Andalucian April and is held late for about a week from del Fòrum. in the Parc DIA DE SANT JORDI DE SANT DIA its patron of feast the celebrates the same At on 23 April. St George, saint, Book) (Day of the Llibre Dia del time, the women a rose, is observedgive – men launch men a book, publishers women give La Ramblanew titles and de Sant and Plaça In book and flower stalls. Jaume fill with the day is marked,some years 2010, as in by a mega-concert Sant Jordi in the Club on Montjuïc p dance) being danced on Plaça de Sant Jaume from 7pm on this day. ). 228 p 7 1

d d n a much wilder version takes version a much wilder i (Grand Parade) takes place on (Grand Parade) . ) 7 r a 255 b - (p (human-castle builders; see d e t r a t Gran Rua Gran s - g n i t place. The gay community stages gaudy The place. parades and party-goers keep the bars and running. days clubs heaving for several RAL.LI BARCELONA-SITGES www.rallyesitges.com on Bar- of classic cars converge Dozens celona towards the end of March for this annual rally. You can see the cars on show on the Saturday morning in Plaça de Sant Jaume, or position yourself on the route or in Sitges. here March & April DIVENDRES SANT/VIERNES SANTO (GOOD FRIDAY) Transport yourself to southern Spain with processions from the Església the Easter in El Raval on Good Friday. de Sant Agustí startThey at 5pm and end in front of La hours later. three Catedral FESTIVAL DE JAZZ FESTIVAL www.jazzterrassa.org, in Catalan A major season of jazz concerts from late in the January to the end of February nearby city of Terrassa. FESTES DE SANTA EULÀLIA FESTES DE SANTA www.bcn.cat/santaeulalia this is the with Carnaval, Coinciding roughly of Barcelona’s first patron saint, Eulàlia feast (or ‘la Laia’ for short). Ajuntament (town The a week of cultural events, hall) organises from concerts through to performances by castellers A major flamenco fest running over differ- running over fest flamenco A major (a series of 16 major each year ent dates in to mid-April concerts from mid-February town. across 2010) and held in venues DE CAJÓN FESTIVAL FLAMENCO DE CAJÓN FESTIVAL www.theproject.es/en Celebrated in February or March, this or March, in February Celebrated of fancy-dress days several involves festival merrymaking,parades and ending on the Sunday. Easter before 47 days Tuesday The CARNESTOLTES/CARNAVAL 5.30pm. Down from evening the Saturday in Sitges American singer-songwriters for concerts singer-songwriters American of Janu- the end a period from over spread about mid-March. ary until t e g - 3 003-getting-started-bar7.indd 17 M A

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223/07/2010 10:18:53 AM ). 25 p (fire race), a market,tradi- (fire festa: castellers, . There’s a swimming race across . There’s correfoc correfoc tional music and magic shows for kids. tional music and magic commemorates, national day Catalonia’s on 11 Sep- curiously, Barcelona’s surrender of 1714 to the Bourbon monarchy tember Spain, at the conclusion of the War of the Spanish Succession (see FESTES DE LA MERCÈ www.bcn.cat/merce sparks a final burst of fest four-day This Nostra Senyora de madness. pre-winter la Mercè (Our Lady of Mercy), Barcelona’s in the city’s co-patron saint, is celebrated festa major the harbour, a fun run, outstanding free concerts (such as Barcelona Acció Musica, www.bcn.cat/bam) and a bewilder- or BAM; Adding ing programme of cultural events. of all the ingredients to the local colour are a major Catalan FESTA MAJOR DE SANTS MAJOR FESTA www.festamajordesants.net, in Catalan district of Sants launches its own The mayhem, of decorated version week-long heels hard on the held around 24 August, of Gràcia. FESTES DE SANT ROC Plaça Nova For four days in mid-August, in the Barri Gòtic becomes the scene of parades, September DE CATALUNYA DIADA NACIONAL August DE GRÀCIA MAJOR FESTA in Catalanwww.festamajordegracia.org, which takes over place local festival, This is one 15 August, about nine days around a than More of the biggest in Barcelona. by decorated are in Gràcia streets dozen their inhabitants as part of a competition People street. for the most imaginative and to bands in the streets pour in to listen fuel on snacks and drink at count- squares, stands. less street DÍA DE LA MÚSICA DE LA DÍA Spanish in www.diadelamusica.com, on converge a bevy of bands On 21 June of an evening cities for and other Barcelona performances,indie music usually held in Maremàgnum. ; Passeig ; Passeig 140 Map p (

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Teatre Grec Teatre d d m n i . 7 r a b - d e t r a t s - g n i t Montjuïc, from which the festival takes its Montjuïc, from which the festival name. de Santa Madrona; PRIDE BARCELONA www.pridebarcelona.org, in Catalan is a week Barcelona Gay Pride festival The of celebrations held towards the end of June with a crammed programme of and concerts,culture along with the tradi- tional Gay Pride march on the last Sunday of the month. DIA DE SANT JOAN/DÍA DE SAN DIA DE SANT JOAN/DÍA BAUTISTA JUAN of St John the the Feast night before The Baptist (24 June), the people of Barcelona or hold partieshit the streets at home to the Berbena de Sant Joan (St celebrate drinking,John’s Night), which involves and fireworks. dancing, bonfires www.barcelonafestival.com, in Catalan dance eclectic programme of theatre, This and music runs for most of the summer. the city, held all over are Performances including at the FESTIVAL DEL GREC FESTIVAL SÓNAR www.sonar.es Sónar is Barcelona’s celebration of elec- to be Europe’s tronic music and is said Locations and dates biggest such event. change each year. June www.tallerdemusics.com to see great of the best occasions One this concentrated flamenco in Barcelona, four days at the Centre is held over festival de Barcelona Contemporània de Cultura the district In of Nou Barris, a (CCCB). held is usually smaller three-day festival month in a local around the middle of the Keep your eyes open for civic centre. flyers. FESTIVAL DE FLAMENCO DE DE FLAMENCO FESTIVAL VELLA CIUTAT www.primaverasound.com (or early June) May in late days For three locations and other Fòrum the Auditori welcome a host of interna- around town musicians. tional DJs and PRIMAVERA PRIMAVERA SOUND t e g - 3 18 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO 003-getting-started-bar7.indd 18 M

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0 1 (shit) 0 2 / 7 cagar 0 / ). Staying in 3 91 223/07/2010 10:18:53 AM p . These cribs common are ) with a stick to get a present with a stick to get a present 57 (p

caga tió caga (tree trunk) in the fireplace – its gifts in the fireplace trunk) (tree in tió (nativity scenes). A giant one is set up in Plaça de Església de Betlem NADAL/NAVIDAD NADAL/NAVIDAD (CHRISTMAS) dining out well (but without splurging), you dining out well (but without splurging), €100 to €150 a day. on spending can bargain www.primaverasound.com Sound equivalent of Primavera winter The in May. MONEY & COSTS the days when Barcelona could Long gone are destination. A 2009 a cheap be considered study placed Barcelona in 38th spot in a rank- than 100 cities by expense. A mid- more ing of double room can cost anything hotel range dinner av- from €70 to €250, and a midrange On the other hand, simple, €21 to €70. erages filling set cost around €10. meals lunchtime admission days (see free museums have Many chapter, the Neighbourhoods sticking to set and a modest hotel, lunches www.festivalmillenni.com year, the following into April of Stretching this concert an eclectic range series offers de la of performances,in the Palau mainly flamenco to Joan from Música Catalana, Baez. their main Christmas to have tend although many dinner on Christmas Eve, An odd a big lunch the following day. have to mark the occasion is the annual event 200m swimming dash from (freezing) to the Moll de les in PortMaremàgnum Vell Drassanes. PRIMAVERA CLUB December FESTIVAL MIL.LENNI pessebres pessebres and let kids have a go hitting a . (giants (giants caganers correfoc (poop log) is a wooden beast that ‘lives’ in the kitchen or dining room in the run-up to this expo is usu- this expo is (crapper), a chap who has dropped his pants and is doing number twos (a symbol of (crapper), a chap who has dropped his pants and is doing number capgrossos caga tió caga cava, 9 and and 1

d d n i . 7 r gegants a b - d e t r a On a similar note, the On What makes them different here is the scatological presence – along with the baby Jesus, is the scatological presence Mary,What makes here Joseph and the them different The whole thing developedThe whole from a country tradition of placing a huge t s - fertility for the coming year). Christmas (traditionally things like and water) so that on Christmas and has to be ‘fed’ dry bread Day it will three kingsthree – of the throughout the Catholic world, particularly in the Mediterranean. A Catalan Christmas wouldn’t be the same without the POO-POOING POO-POOING CHRISTMAS the Sant Jaume and you can see a display of them in an annex of gifts. substantial nowadays. Once, the gifts be more In some families they tend to sweets. were the misty past were simply the benefits of heat and light. Somewhere along the line the story became more, shall we along the line the story became more, simply the benefits of heat and light. Somewhere the misty past were say, sophisticated. You can buy your own de Santa Llúcia, a market in front of La Catedral, in the weeks leading up to Christmas. at the Fira g n i t www.theproject.es For most of the month, the big venues down) across town (from the Auditori jazz acts. host a plethora of international home-spun a more the same time, jazz At takes place for about a month in bars fest across Ciutat Vella. November DE INTERNACIONAL FESTIVAL JAZZ DE BARCELONA FESTIVAL DE TARDOR FESTIVAL www.ribermusica.org, in Catalan more music, workshops and days of live Five around La Ribera. in bars and other locations October ally held at Maremàgnum over four days four days over Maremàgnum ally held at end of September. towards the DE LA BARCELONETA MAJOR FESTA Barcelona’s party-goers only usually have a short the next wait until opportunity for Although on a small scale, merrymaking. local the to celebrate La Barceloneta’s gig, patron saint, Sant Miquel, on 29 September, plenty of involves lasts about a week and dancing and drinking on the (especially beach). An excellent chance to taste a wide range chance to taste An excellent and wine of Catalan and big heads), and a huge heads), and and big DE VINS I CAVES DE MOSTRA CATALUNYA parades of of parades t e g - 3 003-getting-started-bar7.indd 19 M A

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) and 0 1 46 0 p 2 / 7 0 / 3 223/07/2010 10:18:54 AM (www.servicaixa.com); ServiCaixa ). 227 p Catalonia and 40 other European regions You can do your part to keep water con- water part to keep You can do your Air pollution is a problem (seeAir pollution flying to Barcelona, consider of Instead by train. Direct overnight sleepers run from run sleepers overnight by train. Direct Geneva and Milan. From London you Paris, could start with the Eurostar and spend a day en route. in Paris mem- are (including Tuscany and Provence) a sustainable tourism network aimed at of bers tourism compatible with the envi- rendering and maintenance life ronment, local quality of local traditions. of and making sure you don’t litter in the streets in the streets litter you don’t and making sure the hosing down of (a problem that has led to the city every night). driving around Barcelona is impractical any- than a way, so use (more public transport busesrun on natural gas and diesel- of quarter phased continually being buses are powered an option but the introduc- is hire out). Bike as public trans- bicycles of a system tion of tour bike port, the exponential explosion of network of companies and the inadequate around getting lanes can, at times, make bike frustrating for cyclists, pedestrians by bike alike! and drivers by the opening of a major desalination plant a major of by the opening in 2009. It can in nearby El Prat de Llobregat a day, pro- water of process 200 million litres Barcelona’s needs. water viding up to 20% of however, and is energy, of It is costly in terms brought to maximum production only if dam lacking. supplies are water by not sendingsumption down, for example, day in your hotel off towels for washing each lengthening your trip and travelling there there lengthening your trip and travelling (www.elcorteingles.es/entradas, fans in Spanish). Football (www.telentrada.com); (www.telentrada.com); Tel-Entrada El Corte Inglés (filled rolls) entrepans 0 2

(www.barcelonareporter.com) An (www.barcelonareporter.com)

(www.rutadelmodernisme.com) d d (www.barcelonaturisme.com) The n i (www.barcelonayellow.com) A general . (www.ticketmaster.es) and (www.ticketmaster.es) 7 r (www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/barcelona) a b - d (www.bcn.cat/en) The town hall’s official (www.bcn.cat/en) The town hall’s e t r (http://lecool.com) A free weekly guide to what’s (http://lecool.com) A free a If you are keenIf you are to eat in certain to avoid disappoint- (by phone or, in some cases, online) book a table restaurants, t s - anxious to catch a match with FC Barcelona should also book ahead a match with FC Barcelona should anxious to catch (see Ticket MasterTicket ADVANCE ADVANCE PLANNING in advance. Many things during fill up fast, especially popular hotels book a few might want to You the more of trade the trade-fairto avoid, check which dates To know fairs. at www.firabcn.com. calendar ment on arrival. outings should consider booking a night at the opera or similar Similarly, those planning the through or ticketingvenues’ websites agencies like: g n i t

site with plenty of links and information on everything from Gaudí to gourmet dining. BARCELONA a problem throughout are shortages Water Spain. The situation in Barcelona, at one point so critical in 2008 that boatloads had to be (southern Spain) from Almería imported has been (France), alleviated and Marseille SUSTAINABLE SUSTAINABLE Ruta del The site that covers Barcelona’s Modernista heritage, sites, events and more. Le Cool Lonely Planet Barcelona Yellow Barcelona Turisme city’s official tourism website. Barcelonareporter.com or make up their own meals, should be able up their own meals, should or make by on about €50 a day. to get INTERNET RESOURCES you started on a will get The following sites Barcelona: tour of virtual research Barcelona Those who stay in hostel strict budget, on a dorms and survive on English language news site on Catalonia. happening in Barcelona (and other cities). website, with plenty of links. t e g - 3 20 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED INTERNET RESOURCES 003-getting-started-bar7.indd 20