Rock Climbing Management Guidelines
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Too Important to Fail: the Problem of Aging Bolts Page 8
VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 15/Volume 104 www.accessfund.org Too Important to Fail: The Problem of Aging Bolts page 8 SIX THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU CLIMB IN THE DESERT 5 INSIDE SCOOP: INDIAN CREEK 6 CLIMBERS PARTNER WITH CITY TO OPEN NEW DULUTH ICE PARK 7 AF Perspective year ago, we shipped off several three-ring binders, each with over 500 pages of documents, to the Land Trust Alliance (LTA) Accreditation A Commission. This was our final application to become an accredited land trust—the culmination of six years of preparation that started with our adoption of the LTA standards in 2009. The accreditation process is so thorough that the LTA recommends hiring an external consultant just to help amass the necessary documentation. They generously awarded Access Fund a $2,500 grant to do just that. We’re very proud to announce that we are now one of 317 accredited land trusts in the United States. After launching our revolving loan program to support climbing area acquisitions in 2009, and after more than two decades of supporting land acquisitions across the country, we decided it was important for Access Fund to embody the highest standards for a land trust. Our work involves consulting with and supporting local climbing organizations (LCOs), and we want to give the best advice and serve as an example. LTA accreditation is important to us, to our network of local organizations, and to the climbing community. And it took a lot of work! We aren’t planning to throw ourselves an accreditation party, but I wanted to share a little of the backstory. -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Rock Climbing Inventory of NJ's State Parks and Forest
Allamuchy Mountain, Stephens State Park Rock Climbing Inventory of NJ’s State Parks and Forest Prepared by Access NJ Contents Photo Credit: Matt Carlardo www.climbnj.com June, 2006 CRI 2007 Access NJ Scope of Inventory I. Climbing Overview of New Jersey Introduction NJ’s Climbing Resource II. Rock-Climbing and Cragging: New Jersey Demographics NJ's Climbing Season Climbers and the Environment Tradition of Rock Climbing on the East Coast III. Climbing Resource Inventory C.R.I. Matrix of NJ State Lands Climbing Areas IV. Climbing Management Issues Awareness and Issues Bolts and Fixed Anchors Natural Resource Protection V. Appendix Types of Rock-Climbing (Definitions) Climbing Injury Patterns and Injury Epidemiology Protecting Raptor Sites at Climbing Areas Position Paper 003: Climbers Impact Climbers Warning Statement VI. End-Sheets NJ State Parks Adopt a Crag 2 www.climbnj.com CRI 2007 Access NJ Introduction In a State known for its beaches, meadowlands and malls, rock climbing is a well established year-round, outdoor, all weather recreational activity. Rock Climbing “cragging” (A rock-climbers' term for a cliff or group of cliffs, in any location, which is or may be suitable for climbing) in NJ is limited by access. Climbing access in NJ is constrained by topography, weather, the environment and other variables. Climbing encounters access issues . with private landowners, municipalities, State and Federal Governments, watershed authorities and other landowners and managers of the States natural resources. The motives and impacts of climbers are not distinct from hikers, bikers, nor others who use NJ's open space areas. Climbers like these others, seek urban escape, nature appreciation, wildlife observation, exercise and a variety of other enriching outcomes when we use the resources of the New Jersey’s State Parks and Forests (Steve Matous, Access Fund Director, March 2004). -
Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide better swing control; the longer axes are good for glacier travel. Technical and mixed, curve- shafted tools fall in the 45-to-55cm range; size there to preference. Ice Gear Shaft. The classic mountain tool has a straight shaft, for anchor/boot-axe belays or WIth Ice clImbIng, as aid, upward progress allow you to switch out mono and dual front- walking-stick use. For steep ice, curved shafts relies almost directly on gear. Accordingly, ice points, too. offer better swing ‘n’ stick, knuckle protection, gear is highly specialized and typically falls bindings. The basic styles are strap-on, and clearance over bulges. into one of three categories: mountain use/ hybrid, and step-in. For mountain travel, strap- grip. A straight tool sans rubber grip is prefer- AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO glacier travel, waterfall- and pure-ice climbing, ons typically suffice and work with all boots; able for mountain use, where you’ll be posthol- With all the super-specialized ice or mixed climbing/dry tooling. hybrids require a sturdier boot with a heel ing through snow. For technical ice and mixed tools these days, it’s unusual to find welt; and step-ins fit stiffer boots with both use, a molded-rubber grip delivers purchase one so multipurpose — the Austri- Crampons heel and toe welts. and insulation against the shaft. Technical ice There are crampons for all types of climb- tools typically have pinky catches, for even Alpin (austrialpin.net) HU.go ing, from getting purchase on slick slopes to Ice Tools better grip. For hardcore ice and mixed, the Gear breaks the mold with a vari- inverted heel hooking. -
Sunlight Peak Class 4 Exposure: Summit Elev
Sunlight Peak Class 4 Exposure: Summit Elev.: 14,066 feet Trailhead Elev.: 11,100 feet Elevation Gain: 3,000' starting at Chicago Basin 6,000' starting at Needleton RT Length: 5.00 miles starting at Chicago Basin 19 miles starting at Needleton Climbers: Rick, Brett and Wayne Crandall; Rick Peckham August 8, 2012 I’ve been looking at climbing reports to Sunlight Peak for a few years – a definite notch up for me, so the right things aligned and my son Brett (Class 5 climber), brother Wayne (strong, younger but this would be his first fourteener success) and friend Rick Peckham from Alaska converged with me in Durango to embark on a classic Colorado adventure with many elements. We overnighted in Durango, stocking up on “essential ingredients” for a two-night camp in an area called the Chicago Basin, which as you will see, takes some doing to get to. Durango, founded in 1880 by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway company, is now southwest Colorado’s largest town, with 15,000 people. Left to right: Brett, Rick, Wayne provisioning essentials. Chicago Basin is at the foot of three fourteeners in the San Juan range that can only be reached by taking Colorado’s historic and still running (after 130 years) narrow-gauge train from Durango to Silverton and paying a fee to get off with back-pack in the middle of the ride. Once left behind, the next leg of the excursion is a 7 mile back-pack while climbing 3000’ vertical feet to the Basin where camp is set. -
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014 V. Schöffl Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 2 One Move too Many Climbing: Injury Risk Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity (Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) ISS score <13; 5% ISS 13-75 (Schussmann, Lutz et al. Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, 0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities; 23% of the injuries were fatal 1990) USA) incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of (NACA 7) b mountaineering (Schöffl and Winkelmann Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2; 1999) 1 NACA 3 (Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b (Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality (Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b (Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III (Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3% exposure to rock climbing are not hospitalization specified (Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for NS 93% of injuries) Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity Schöffl et al. -
White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015
RUMNEY ROCKS CLIMBING MANAGEMENT PLAN White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015 Introduction The Rumney Rocks Climbing Area encompasses approximately 150 acres on the south-facing slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain on the White Mountain National Forest (WMNF) in Rumney, New Hampshire. Scattered across these slopes are approximately 28 rock faces known by the climbing community as "crags." Rumney Rocks is a nationally renowned sport climbing area with a long and rich climbing history dating back to the 1960s. This unique area provides climbing opportunities for those new to the sport as well as for some of the best sport climbers in the country. The consistent and substantial involvement of the climbing community in protection and management of this area is a testament to the value and importance of Rumney Rocks. This area has seen a dramatic increase in use in the last twenty years; there were 48 published climbing routes at Rumney Rocks in Ed Webster's 1987 guidebook Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and are over 480 documented routes today. In 2014 an estimated 646 routes, 230 boulder problems and numerous ice routes have been documented at Rumney. The White Mountain National Forest Management Plan states that when climbing issues are "no longer effectively addressed" by application of Forest Plan standards and guidelines, "site specific climbing management plans should be developed." To address the issues and concerns regarding increased use in this area, the Forest Service developed the Rumney Rocks Climbing Management Plan (CMP) in 2008. Not only was this the first CMP on the White Mountain National Forest, it was the first standalone CMP for the US Forest Service. -
2019 Work Catalog
FIRE & RESCUE / CLIMB / TOWER TACTICAL / ROPE ACCESS / ARBOR WORK 2019 The top triangle embodies the will of humanity and the drive to ascend ever upward. Aiding people in the battle against the negative force of gravity is at the center of Sterling's reason for being. When you can be bold, courageous and safe, you can own the moment. We call that Freedom to Focus. The bottom triangle serves as the force of gravity, seeking always to ground us. 2019 FEATURED PRODUCT Escape System Lightning GT Unparalleled performance. Unmatched customization. At Sterling we’re dedicated to fire fighter safety. We pioneered the development of escape systems SafeD™ that allow rapid egress and self- Carabiner rescue – all built on the foundation of our proven, trusted ropes. The FCX Escape System is our latest innovation designed around FCX™ Device the needs of fire fighters and departments. FireTech2 Rope Abrasion Resistant Reinforced Pocket Bag A portion of every Sterling FCX Escape System sold is donated to the Lt. Joseph P. DiBernardo Memorial Foundation. Proudly For additional details, specifications, and Certified to 1983 Made in U.S.A. customization options see page 36 or contact NFPA Escape System with U.S. and Globally Sourced Material our sales team. Our Pledge is Simple We have committed to ourselves and to those who use and rely on our products that we’ll never compromise quality; we’ll never stop innovating real-world solutions, and we’ll deliver the most reliable equipment possible. At Sterling, we’re proud to design and build all of our Life- Safety Rope under one roof in Biddeford, Maine. -
THE TECHNIQUE of ARTIFICIAL CLIMBING. E. A. Wrangham
THE TECHNIQUE OF ARTIFICIAL CLIMBING 37 THE TECHNIQUE OF ARTIFICIAL CLIMBING BY E. A. WRANGHAM • ' was strenuous, especially for one with too little practice in piton climbing.' The quotation comes from the Journal of a British mountaineering club, and reveals a very typical reaction to what is to many British climbers a new technique. In many of the magnificent new routes pioneered in the Alps since the 193o's, a section of the climb has been rendered possible by the use of a gradually developing tech nique of climbing with the aid of pegs (' pitons,' in French). The custom started with a twofold purpose : for belaying, to save time and add to security, where the rock was unco-operative (many Continental climbers now will use a peg in preference to a rock belay, even when the latter is easily available, considering rock belays unsafe) ; and for use as a hand or foot hold, in the momentary absence of a rock one. From these beginnings the stage has now been reached when there are some ascents in the Alps which require almost continuous use of pegs for direct aid from bottom to top. It is, of course, up to the individual to prefer one . type of cli.mb to another. Mummery preferred rock climbs, Smythe snow climbs; Norman Collie thought the Cuillin of Skye a pleasanter climbing ground than the Himalaya ; and I have come across climbers who, having seen the Alps, still prefer to climb on the gritstone crags of Derbyshire. Similarly, one may find the entirely artificial climb rather monotonous, despite the considerable strain on muscles and nerves which it almost certainly entails. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable.