Mountain Safety Research
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Too Important to Fail: the Problem of Aging Bolts Page 8
VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 15/Volume 104 www.accessfund.org Too Important to Fail: The Problem of Aging Bolts page 8 SIX THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU CLIMB IN THE DESERT 5 INSIDE SCOOP: INDIAN CREEK 6 CLIMBERS PARTNER WITH CITY TO OPEN NEW DULUTH ICE PARK 7 AF Perspective year ago, we shipped off several three-ring binders, each with over 500 pages of documents, to the Land Trust Alliance (LTA) Accreditation A Commission. This was our final application to become an accredited land trust—the culmination of six years of preparation that started with our adoption of the LTA standards in 2009. The accreditation process is so thorough that the LTA recommends hiring an external consultant just to help amass the necessary documentation. They generously awarded Access Fund a $2,500 grant to do just that. We’re very proud to announce that we are now one of 317 accredited land trusts in the United States. After launching our revolving loan program to support climbing area acquisitions in 2009, and after more than two decades of supporting land acquisitions across the country, we decided it was important for Access Fund to embody the highest standards for a land trust. Our work involves consulting with and supporting local climbing organizations (LCOs), and we want to give the best advice and serve as an example. LTA accreditation is important to us, to our network of local organizations, and to the climbing community. And it took a lot of work! We aren’t planning to throw ourselves an accreditation party, but I wanted to share a little of the backstory. -
Meet the Tireles Climbers Establishing Moderate Sport Routes Around The
the mod squad Meet the tireles climbers establishing moderate sport routes around the country. STORY BY JOHANNA FLASHMAN PHOTO BY TK PHOTO BY TK 58 CLIMBING MAGAZINE Lindsay Wescott on the popular Free Willie (5.11a), Animal World, Boulder Canyon, CO. The climb is one of hundreds of moderate PHOTO BY TK PHOTO BY TK sport climbs put up by the Colorado developer Greg Hand (p.64). CLIMBING.COM 59 TK caption needed PHOTO BY TK PHOTO BY TK 58 CLIMBING MAGAZINE the mod squad Meet the climbers establishing moderate sport routes around the country. STORY BY JOHANNA FLASHMAN PHOTO BY TK PHOTO BY TK CLIMBING.COM 59 s a climber who doesn’t plan on breaking any records possibility of establishing multiple new routes in a day. This or even leading a 5.12 any time soon, I tend to seek made sport climbing a less elite, less esoteric pursuit, and soon AA out the 5.10-and-under climbs at my local cliffs. I like bolt-only face climbs of all grades began to appear across the climbs that don’t make me contemplate my mortality on every country. Concurrent was the ascension of climbing gyms, of move, as I suspect the majority of us do as well. Still, the media which there are now 530 and counting in America according to so often focuses on the climbers ticking 5.15s—the Adam Ondras the Climbing Business Journal. With the boom in gyms, which and Margo Hayeses of the world—when so few of us attain these are most new climbers’ introduction to the sport and offer fun, grades. -
Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide better swing control; the longer axes are good for glacier travel. Technical and mixed, curve- shafted tools fall in the 45-to-55cm range; size there to preference. Ice Gear Shaft. The classic mountain tool has a straight shaft, for anchor/boot-axe belays or WIth Ice clImbIng, as aid, upward progress allow you to switch out mono and dual front- walking-stick use. For steep ice, curved shafts relies almost directly on gear. Accordingly, ice points, too. offer better swing ‘n’ stick, knuckle protection, gear is highly specialized and typically falls bindings. The basic styles are strap-on, and clearance over bulges. into one of three categories: mountain use/ hybrid, and step-in. For mountain travel, strap- grip. A straight tool sans rubber grip is prefer- AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO glacier travel, waterfall- and pure-ice climbing, ons typically suffice and work with all boots; able for mountain use, where you’ll be posthol- With all the super-specialized ice or mixed climbing/dry tooling. hybrids require a sturdier boot with a heel ing through snow. For technical ice and mixed tools these days, it’s unusual to find welt; and step-ins fit stiffer boots with both use, a molded-rubber grip delivers purchase one so multipurpose — the Austri- Crampons heel and toe welts. and insulation against the shaft. Technical ice There are crampons for all types of climb- tools typically have pinky catches, for even Alpin (austrialpin.net) HU.go ing, from getting purchase on slick slopes to Ice Tools better grip. For hardcore ice and mixed, the Gear breaks the mold with a vari- inverted heel hooking. -
Cut Resistant Jacket for Ropes, Webbing, Straps, Inflatables and the Like
Europaisches Patentamt J European Patent Office © Publication number: 0 250 826 Office europeen des brevets A1 © EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION © Application number: 87107192.4 © D07B 1/04 int. ci* , B29C 63/00 , B29D 29/00 , B29D 23/22 © Date of filing: 18.05.87 © Priority: 12.06.86 US 873669 © Applicant: ALLIED CORPORATION Columbia Road and Park Avenue P.O. Box © Date of publication of application: 2245R (Law Dept) 07.01.88 Bulletin 88/01 Morristown New Jersey 07960(US) © Designated Contracting States: © Inventor: Wincklhofer, Robert Charles DE FR GB IT c/oAllied Corporation P.O. Box 2245R Morristown New Jersey07960(US) . © Representative: Brock, Peter William UOP Processes International Corporation 48 Leicester Square London WC2H 7LW(GB) © Cut resistant jacket for ropes, webbing, straps, inflatables and the like. (57) This invention is a cut resistant article comprising a cut resistant jacket surrounding a less cut resistant member. The jacket comprises a fabric of yarn and the yarn consists essentially of a high strength, longitudinal strand having a tensile strength of at least 1 GPa. The strand is wrapped with another fiber or the same fiber. O N 30 a. ll .erox Copy Centre 0 250 826 CUT RESISTANT JACKET FOR ROPES, WEBBING, STRAPS, INFLATABLES AND THE LIKE BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to a cut resistant jacket for ropes, webbing, straps, infiatables and the like, more 5 particularly a cut resistant article comprising a cut resistant jacket surrounding a less cut resistant member where the jacket comprises a fabric of a yarn and the yarn consists essentially of a high strength, longitudinal strand having a tensile strength of at least 1 GPa and the strand is wrapped with a fibre. -
This Is Me Waking up 1000Ft up on El Cap's North America Wall
This is me waking up 1000ft up on El Cap's North America Wall. I am not overly psyched. Although you cannot see it in the photo, at this point I was being blasted by ice cold wind, being showered with bits of ice and I had a knee that had seized up. My psyche level was around 1 out of 10 and despite sort-of hoping that things would sort themselves out, I had pretty much already decided to bail. I really did not come here to bail but somehow the idea of going back down is, on the whole, more reasonable when you are on a route compared with when thinking about it at home. So, what was meant to be my first big-wall solo, became my first big-wall bail. ~- x -~ A week earlier I arrived in San Francisco. It was after a pretty hectic week and I was knackered, I think, due to this, somehow I managed to lose my wallet between airports. It took a while to accept this - I do not lose things. Boring story really; but I made contact with friends-of-friends, crashed at theirs and spent the next 48 hours getting cash via Western Union and finding somewhere that would rent a car using photos of a debit card and a counterpart driving licence. I arrived in a cold and rainy Yosemite Valley on the 7th of May and, with no a tent, I set to work to find a bivi with a roof. Once found, I went shopping for the gear and converted the car boot in my gear store/wardrobe. -
Guide to Climbing Gear
guide to climbing gear by Michael Strong If you leaf through any popular climbing magazine for awhile, it's clear that there is a LOT of climbing gear on the market. Making a choice of what shoes, harness, rope, etc. to buy can be overwhelming, especially for someone relatively new to the activity. For this reason, it's advantageous to begin by taking an introductory course in a program such as ours, where equipment is provided and a community of experienced climbers is available to provide input about what choices to make. Still, climbers have their preferences, and opinions differ as to the merits and shortcomings of a certain item of gear. As a result, it's important to research what's best for you in the context of the type of climbing is in your future. Here are some recommendations: Start with a pair of shoes and a chalk bag. Bouldering has become wildly popular and you can work on your techniques and fitness with nothing more than these items. Buy a harness and belay device next. Evaluate your climbing needs and think beyond the immediate future. A harness suitable for a local crag might not be the best choice for the mountaineering environment, so it's best if you have a clear understanding of where, and what type of climbing you will be enjoying in the present, and what you aspire to. At some point you will most likely purchase a rope so that you can set your own top rope anchors and climb outdoors. If so, you'll need to invest in webbing slings, carabiners and other hardware necessary for configuring climbing anchors. -
2019 Work Catalog
FIRE & RESCUE / CLIMB / TOWER TACTICAL / ROPE ACCESS / ARBOR WORK 2019 The top triangle embodies the will of humanity and the drive to ascend ever upward. Aiding people in the battle against the negative force of gravity is at the center of Sterling's reason for being. When you can be bold, courageous and safe, you can own the moment. We call that Freedom to Focus. The bottom triangle serves as the force of gravity, seeking always to ground us. 2019 FEATURED PRODUCT Escape System Lightning GT Unparalleled performance. Unmatched customization. At Sterling we’re dedicated to fire fighter safety. We pioneered the development of escape systems SafeD™ that allow rapid egress and self- Carabiner rescue – all built on the foundation of our proven, trusted ropes. The FCX Escape System is our latest innovation designed around FCX™ Device the needs of fire fighters and departments. FireTech2 Rope Abrasion Resistant Reinforced Pocket Bag A portion of every Sterling FCX Escape System sold is donated to the Lt. Joseph P. DiBernardo Memorial Foundation. Proudly For additional details, specifications, and Certified to 1983 Made in U.S.A. customization options see page 36 or contact NFPA Escape System with U.S. and Globally Sourced Material our sales team. Our Pledge is Simple We have committed to ourselves and to those who use and rely on our products that we’ll never compromise quality; we’ll never stop innovating real-world solutions, and we’ll deliver the most reliable equipment possible. At Sterling, we’re proud to design and build all of our Life- Safety Rope under one roof in Biddeford, Maine. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Whitewater Packrafting in Western Nepal a Senior Expedition Proposal for the SUNY Plattsburgh Expeditionary Studies Program ______
Whitewater Packrafting in Western Nepal A Senior Expedition Proposal for the SUNY Plattsburgh Expeditionary Studies Program ______________________________________________________________________ Ted Tetrault Professor Gerald Isaak EXP435: Expedition Planning December 1, 2016 Table of Contents ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Introduction…………………………………………………………………………………….. 2 2. Literature Review…………………………………………………………………………….... 7 3. Design and Methodology…………………………………………………………………… 16 4. Risk Management……………………………………………………………………………. 29 5. References……………………………………………………………………………………. 38 6. Appendix A: Expedition Field Manual…………………………………………………… 39 7. Appendix B: Related Maps and Documents……………………………………………. 42 8. Appendix C: Budget………………………………………………………………………… 44 9. Appendix D: Gearlist………………………………………………………………………... 47 1. Introduction ____________________________________________________________________________ This expedition plan outlines a whitewater packrafting trip on the Bheri and Seti Karnali rivers in western Nepal that will serve as my capstone project for the Bachelor’s of Science in the Expeditionary Studies program at SUNY Plattsburgh. While these rivers will count as my own personal senior expedition, the trip in its entirety will also include the running of the Sun Kosi river in eastern Nepal, and that plan can be found in a separate document authored by Alex LaLonde as that segment will be serving as his capstone project for the same program. Adventure travel expeditions give us the -
BMC Position Statement on Drilled Equipment and Dry Tooling
P10 Management Regulations B R I T I S H M OUNTAINEERING C OUNCIL 177-179 Burton Road Tel: 0161 445 6111 Manchester M20 2BB Fax: 0161 445 4500 www.thebmc.co.uk e-mail: [email protected] BMC position statements on Drilled Equipment and Dry Tooling Introduction This document sets out the BMC’s position on the separate but related issues of drilled equipment and dry tooling as agreed by National Council on 8 February 2014. a. Drilled Equipment Background The BMC’s position on drilled equipment was debated by the Area Meetings and National Council in 2012-2014; this position statement was agreed by National Council on 8 February 2014. For the purposes of this document drilled equipment refers to bolts and drilled pegs (i.e. pegs placed in drill holes), and retro-bolting refers to the placing of drilled equipment in a position where there was previously no drilled equipment in place. BMC position British climbing has a rich history and a well-established code of ethics which has evolved over many years through debate amongst climbers. The BMC recognises that, as the representative body for mountaineering in England and Wales, it is the de facto guardian of the heritage of the sport in all its forms. The BMC strongly supports the approach to climbing based on leader-placed protection which makes use of natural rock features. The diversity of climbing styles and the existence of ‘bolt free’ areas are distinct and internationally important aspects of British climbing. It is the responsibility of all climbers to promote and respect agreed drilled equipment policies.