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2006 Mountainctry P01-64 WHWRQYLOODJHUHDOW\FRP 7KRXJKWIXO 6TXDUH )RRW )ORRU 3ODQ ZLWK )LUH SODFHV%HGURRPV 0DVWHUDQG-XQLRU0DVWHU IXOOEDWKV DQGKDOI EDWKV*RXUPHW&KHI ·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ÀVKLQJVNLLQJRXW\RXUEDFNGRRUWKLVLVWKHSHUIHFW VHWWLQJIRU\RXUGUHDPKRPH2IIHUHGDW &RQWDFW-DFN'HOD\ DW 'XEEH0RXOGHU $UFKLWHFWV GHVLJQHG EHG EDWK IXOO KDOI KRPH VLWXDWHG RQ SULYDWH WUHHG DFUHV LQ 6ROLWXGH 7KLV VT IW ÁRRU SODQ ERDVWV D JRXUPHW NLWFKHQKXJHJUHDWURRPIDPLO\URRPVHYHUDOERQXVURRPV ZHW EDU ÀUHSODFHV ZLWK SLQH JUDQLWH FRULDQ DQG WLOH WKURXJKRXW(QMR\SULYDF\DQGWUDQTXLOLW\ZLWKSULYDWHDFFHVV WRWKH6QDNH5LYHUDQGZLOGOLIHRXW\RXUEDFNGRRU2IIHUHG DW &RQWDFW.HOOL:DUG DW &RQWDFW-HII :DUG DW 0VS5FBNPG3FBM&TUBUF1SPGFTTJPOBMT 5RE'HV/DXULHUV -HII :DUG .HOOL:DUG &KULV*UDQW 2IÀFHV/RFDWHG2Q7KH/REE\/HYHO -DNH.LOJURZ %UHW%RUVKHOO 2I 7KH7HWRQ0RXQWDLQ/RGJH6ORSH -DFN'HOD\ 5LFN$UPVWURQJ VLGHLQ7HWRQ9LOODJH -XVW2II WKH 'RQQLH&ODUNH +ROOHH$UPVWURQJ 7RZQ6TXDUH,QWKH+HDUWRI 'RZQWRZQ-DFNVRQ )BSE8PSLJOH5PUBM*OUFHSJUZ 2 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 7 ,9Ê", - >Ã} ÌÊiÞ ÜÌÜÊ>VÃÊi ÎäÇÊÇÎΰÓÓx ÜÜÜ°`>à iiÞ°V vJ`>à iiÞ°V My exit from life in the fast lane. My Homewood. Whether you are exploring Jackson for business or pleasure, you will love staying with us! At Homewood Suites by Hilton® in Jackson, just off the Town Square, you'll find two-room suites* with a gas fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, robes, indoor pool, whirlpool and complimentary hot breakfast. Just visit homewoodsuites.com or call 1-800-CALL-HOME®. MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME.™ Visit Body & Soul Spa & Salon Inside Homewood Suites by Hilton 260 N. Millward St, Jackson, WY 83001 260 N. Millward St Group & Wedding Sales please Jackson, WY 83001 call 307-739-0808 ext 1101 307-739-0808 or email: [email protected] [email protected] jacksonwy.homewoodsuites.com *Some hotels have studio suites. †Monday through Thursday, subject to state and local laws. ©2006 Hilton Hospitality, Inc. 4 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Sheared beaver & Finnish raccoon as seen in VOGUE Magazine Mink • Sheared Beaver • Chinchilla • Silver Fox • Lynx • Coyote • Arctic Timberwolf • Black Glama • Persian Lamb Highest Quality, Largest Selection & Lowest Prices—Guaranteed! 135 North Cache Avenue in Jackson (307) 733-4772 Open 10am to 8pm EExplorexplore On the Cover: Kit DesLauriers and the north MOUNTAIN COUNTRY face of the Grand Teton; Photo by Wade McKoy Contents Photos: Clockwise from top left: paddling on Jackson Lake; buffalo (American bison); the rodeo’s Grand Entree; hiking through fireweed; mountain biking single-track; releasing a cutthroat trout Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Direction & Ad Design: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: JACKSON HOLE Ike Faust, 307-733-6995, WEST YELLOWSTONE Photos: Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall—FPI Photos: Wade Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 CODY & PINEDALE NATURE RECREATION Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 8 Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem 14 Boating the Snake River DUBOIS Suzan Moulton, 307-733-6995 28 Outdoor Comfort & Safety 18 Regional Boating Info. 56 Yellowstone IMAX Theater 20 Fishing Copyright 2006 by FPI (Focus 57 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center 26 Climbing Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 28 Hiking 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be TOWNS 32 Mountain Biking reproduced in any form with- 38 Cody 34 Multi-use Pathways out written permission from 42 Jackson 36 Rodeos the publishers. Mountain Country is a free vis- 46 Teton Village 44 Snow King Resort itors guide published annually 50 Pinedale 46 Jackson Hole Resort in May and distributed all sum- mer at hundreds of locations 53 Victor & Driggs 48 Horseback Riding throughout Jackson Hole, 54 West Yellowstone 56 Yellowstone In Winter Cody, and other regional com- munities, and at information 58 Dubois centers throughout the region. To receive a copy in the mail, MAPS & send $5 to Mountain Country, MUSEUMS P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, 40 Buffalo Bill Historical Center DIRECTORIES Wyoming 83001. 52 Museum of the Mountain Man 59 Business Directory Our Web site 62 Greater Yellowstone Map focusproductions.com displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining TRIBUTE Guide and our winter travelers 30 Doug Coombs Lived guide, the Jackson Hole Skier. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ OPEN DAILY LOCATED ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE TOWN SQUARE JACKSON, WYOMING jhclothiers.com 307-733-7211 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 7 These Lands Are Your Lands What to do—or not do—on your vacation in Teton country? by Bert Raynes You’re on vacation, going to visit your national parks and forests, to see sights you’ve read about, per- haps visited before, taking the fam- ily for fun and memories. Great! Have a wonderful time. It’s unlikely you’ve given much consideration to the varying,occasionally dra- conian, often confusing, outmoded and conflicting laws, ordinances, or customs of the various states, counties, towns—let alone public lands—you will pass into and through.You’re far more concerned with lodging,places to eat,and keeping to your agenda and budget. Waterfowl like this cinnamon teal duck (above) find plenty of prime habitat in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem; The hike to Table Besides,you’re a law-abiding citizen,exemplary in every way.You respect your Mountain in the Jedediah Smith Wilderness (right) provides high-alti- fellow man, never drive more than five mph over any speed limit, park only in tude vistas on the Tetons’ western slope. A lone horseman on Togwotee designated areas, don’t litter (why, you even recycle), respect wildlife, obey all Pass (below) gives his mount a break in the alpine tundra around instructions and cautions.You even are considerate of others who are lost in their Younts Peak and the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature; Wade McKoy; Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch / Triangle McKoy; Bob Woodall by Nature; Wade Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild 8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 As important as it is to“ the nation, and indeed to the world, the GYE is the acciden- tal result of some 130 years of pioneering and tentative establishments of public lands.” A cow moose shows her calf how to feed on aquatic plants; The roadways of Antelope Flats pro- vide a stunning setting for cyclists seeking a low-traffic ride; Wildflowers like this yellow gla- cier lily beg vacationers to slow down the pace and take notice; Sea kayaks give Jackson Lake paddlers a water-line view of the Tetons and are an excellent craft for weathering the storm when these placid waters become wind-whipped. appreciation of natural wonders. Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE)—which you may This black bear cub created a And yet, and yet…This is a nation of laws, as never had known about before. It includes two roadside bear-jam several the well-known expression has it. True—but not of national parks,seven national forests,numerous sec- weeks last fall while it fed on uniform laws. Inevitably, every elected official, tions of Bureau of Land Management lands. There service berries in Teton park. These tiny shooting stars greet every regulator, every enforcer always wants to get are wilderness areas, roadless areas, state lands too. vacationers with their beauty; into the act.As one result, national parks have rules As important as it is to the nation, and indeed to the Ross Lake south of Dubois, one of and regulations that differ from those in national world, the GYE is the accidental result of some 130 thousands in the Wind River forests, from wilderness areas, from national years of pioneering and tentative establishments of Range, offers horseman wildlife refuges, from adjoining political entities public lands. The various Acts involved politics and Cameron Garnick a remote (states, counties, cities, and towns), and of course, controversies, to put the best face on all succeeding perch for contemplating the private lands. years of both enlightenment and of resistance. rugged beauty of Torrey Creek. You’ve arrived in what is known as the Greater The GYE is large (18 million acres) and largely ade McKoy (bike, boat) Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch (flower, seated horseman); W C Ranch (flower, / Triangle by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 11 unfenced.The outlines of public lands don’t often fol- National Park. It is the world’s first national park, low natural contours but, instead, follow arbitrary established in 1872, and thus it’s not surprising that lines of separation. Nature abhors straight lines, but its operation and supervision had to evolve through surveyors don’t,and man doesn’t.How could you,you trial,error,and refinement.Yellowstone National Park there on your carefree vacation, know or fret about was 44 years old, in fact, before the National Park Scenic how you might—in all innocence, mind you—com- Service was established, charged with carrying out mit some infraction of some regulation or law? the original guidelines of the 1872 Act.The particular After all, it’s YOUR land, your public land! Why passage of most interest is as follows: worry? Because ignorance of the law is no excuse. The Service thus established shall promote More than just another well-known expression,it’s and regulate the use of Federal areas true.And because it’s yours, you need to care for and known as parks, monuments, and reserva- respect it.
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