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2 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006  7 ,9Ê", - >ψ} ÌʏiÞ œÜ˜ÌœÜ˜Ê>VŽÃœ˜Êœi ÎäÇÊÇÎΰÓÓx™ ÜÜÜ°`>˜Ã iiÞ°Vœ“ ˆ˜vœJ`>˜Ã iiÞ°Vœ“ My exit from life in the fast lane.

My Homewood.

Whether you are exploring Jackson for business or pleasure, you will love staying with us! At Homewood Suites by Hilton® in Jackson, just off the Town Square, you'll find two-room suites* with a gas fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, robes, indoor pool, whirlpool and complimentary hot breakfast. Just visit homewoodsuites.com or call 1-800-CALL-HOME®. MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME.™ Visit Body & Soul Spa & Salon Inside Homewood Suites by Hilton 260 N. Millward St, Jackson, WY 83001 260 N. Millward St Group & Wedding Sales please Jackson, WY 83001 call 307-739-0808 ext 1101 307-739-0808 or email: [email protected] [email protected] jacksonwy.homewoodsuites.com

*Some hotels have studio suites. †Monday through Thursday, subject to state and local laws. ©2006 Hilton Hospitality, Inc.

4 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Sheared beaver & Finnish raccoon as seen in VOGUE Magazine

Mink • Sheared Beaver • Chinchilla • Silver Fox • Lynx • Coyote • Arctic Timberwolf • Black Glama • Persian Lamb Highest Quality, Largest Selection & Lowest Prices—Guaranteed! 135 North Cache Avenue in Jackson (307) 733-4772 Open 10am to 8pm EExplorexplore On the Cover: Kit DesLauriers and the north MOUNTAIN COUNTRY face of the ; Photo by Wade McKoy

Contents Photos: Clockwise from top left: paddling on ; buffalo (American bison); the rodeo’s Grand Entree; hiking through fireweed; mountain biking single-track; releasing a cutthroat trout

Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Direction & Ad Design: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: JACKSON HOLE Ike Faust, 307-733-6995,

WEST YELLOWSTONE

Photos: Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall—FPI Photos: Wade Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 CODY & PINEDALE NATURE RECREATION Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 8 Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem 14 Boating the Snake River DUBOIS Suzan Moulton, 307-733-6995 28 Outdoor Comfort & Safety 18 Regional Boating Info.

56 Yellowstone IMAX Theater 20 Fishing Copyright 2006 by FPI (Focus 57 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center 26 Climbing Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, 28 Hiking 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be TOWNS 32 Mountain Biking reproduced in any form with- 38 Cody 34 Multi-use Pathways out written permission from 42 Jackson 36 Rodeos the publishers. Mountain Country is a free vis- 46 Teton Village 44 Snow King Resort itors guide published annually 50 Pinedale 46 Jackson Hole Resort in May and distributed all sum- mer at hundreds of locations 53 Victor & Driggs 48 Horseback Riding throughout Jackson Hole, 54 West Yellowstone 56 Yellowstone In Winter Cody, and other regional com- munities, and at information 58 Dubois centers throughout the region. To receive a copy in the mail, MAPS & send $5 to Mountain Country, MUSEUMS P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, 40 Buffalo Bill Historical Center DIRECTORIES Wyoming 83001. 52 Museum of the Mountain Man 59 Business Directory Our Web site 62 Greater Yellowstone Map focusproductions.com displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining TRIBUTE Guide and our winter travelers 30 Doug Coombs Lived guide, the Jackson Hole Skier. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

OPEN DAILY LOCATED ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE TOWN SQUARE JACKSON, WYOMING jhclothiers.com 307-733-7211 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 7 These Lands Are Your Lands What to do—or not do—on your vacation in Teton country?

by Bert Raynes You’re on vacation, going to visit your national parks and forests, to see sights you’ve read about, per- haps visited before, taking the fam- ily for fun and memories. Great! Have a wonderful time. It’s unlikely you’ve given much consideration to the varying,occasionally dra- conian, often confusing, outmoded and conflicting laws, ordinances, or customs of the various states, counties, towns—let alone public lands—you will pass into and through.You’re far more concerned with lodging,places to eat,and keeping to your agenda and budget. Waterfowl like this cinnamon teal duck (above) find plenty of prime habitat in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem; The hike to Table Besides,you’re a law-abiding citizen,exemplary in every way.You respect your Mountain in the Jedediah Smith Wilderness (right) provides high-alti- fellow man, never drive more than five mph over any speed limit, park only in tude vistas on the Tetons’ western slope. A lone horseman on Togwotee designated areas, don’t litter (why, you even recycle), respect wildlife, obey all Pass (below) gives his mount a break in the alpine tundra around instructions and cautions.You even are considerate of others who are lost in their and the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature; Wade McKoy; Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch / Triangle McKoy; Bob Woodall by Nature; Wade Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild 8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006

As important as it is to“ the nation, and indeed to the world, the GYE is the acciden- tal result of some 130 years of pioneering and tentative establishments of public lands.”

A cow moose shows her calf how to feed on aquatic plants; The roadways of Antelope Flats pro- vide a stunning setting for cyclists seeking a low-traffic ride; Wildflowers like this yellow gla- cier lily beg vacationers to slow down the pace and take notice; Sea kayaks give Jackson Lake paddlers a water-line view of the Tetons and are an excellent craft for weathering the storm when these placid waters become wind-whipped. appreciation of natural wonders. Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE)—which you may This black bear cub created a And yet, and yet…This is a nation of laws, as never had known about before. It includes two roadside bear-jam several the well-known expression has it. True—but not of national parks,seven national forests,numerous sec- weeks last fall while it fed on uniform laws. Inevitably, every elected official, tions of Bureau of Land Management lands. There service berries in Teton park. These tiny shooting stars greet every regulator, every enforcer always wants to get are wilderness areas, roadless areas, state lands too. vacationers with their beauty; into the act.As one result, national parks have rules As important as it is to the nation, and indeed to the Ross Lake south of Dubois, one of and regulations that differ from those in national world, the GYE is the accidental result of some 130 thousands in the Wind River forests, from wilderness areas, from national years of pioneering and tentative establishments of Range, offers horseman wildlife refuges, from adjoining political entities public lands. The various Acts involved politics and Cameron Garnick a remote (states, counties, cities, and towns), and of course, controversies, to put the best face on all succeeding perch for contemplating the private lands. years of both enlightenment and of resistance. rugged beauty of Torrey Creek. You’ve arrived in what is known as the Greater The GYE is large (18 million acres) and largely ade McKoy (bike, boat) Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch (flower, seated horseman); W C Ranch (flower, / Triangle by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 11 unfenced.The outlines of public lands don’t often fol- National Park. It is the world’s first national park, low natural contours but, instead, follow arbitrary established in 1872, and thus it’s not surprising that lines of separation. Nature abhors straight lines, but its operation and supervision had to evolve through surveyors don’t,and man doesn’t.How could you,you trial,error,and refinement.Yellowstone National Park there on your carefree vacation, know or fret about was 44 years old, in fact, before the National Park

Scenic how you might—in all innocence, mind you—com- Service was established, charged with carrying out mit some infraction of some regulation or law? the original guidelines of the 1872 Act.The particular After all, it’s YOUR land, your public land! Why passage of most interest is as follows: worry? Because ignorance of the law is no excuse. The Service thus established shall promote More than just another well-known expression,it’s and regulate the use of Federal areas true.And because it’s yours, you need to care for and known as parks, monuments, and reserva- respect it. tions hereinafter specified by such means But it really is up to you to know.If you’re going to Serene and measures as conform to the fundamen- have a picnic, say, in this or that inviting forest glade, tal purpose as to conserve the scenery and whether it’s in a national park or national forest, whether you can build a fire or not ever, or in a given the natural and historic objects and the dry year. Whether you can erect your tent and wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoy- overnight or not.Whether you can fish or not,or keep ment of the same in such a manner and any fish or not. It’s up to you to know and to find out. such means as will leave them unimpaired Is it permissible to bike on this path or that? To for the enjoyment of future generations.

Sincere boat on this water or that? Must you always keep your Please notice that these are not words that sug- cat or dog on a leash,and even then not take it on any gest that our national parks and monuments and his- trail or off paved roads? May you pick flowers in toric sites,etc.,etc.,shall become commercial amuse- Cynde Wilson, Broker GRI Yellowstone or Grand Teton National parks? (No.) In ment parks. Quite the opposite. Amenities found in Jay Fear, Kathryn Jackson, Travis Bing, the forest? (Yes, but don’t overdo.) If you find an city parks or Walt Disney’s are not to be expected.Not

High Mountain Real Estate High Mountain Real Associate Brokers James Thomas, Sales Associate Indian artifact what should you do? (Don’t touch it; to be desired. report it to an official of the jurisdiction you found it The mission of the National Wildlife Refuge Pinedale, Wyoming in.) Cut a tree? Anywhere? (Not in a park or wilder- System is to manage lands and waters for the conser- Toll Free: 877.367.4600 ness, but in a forest with a permit.) vation,management,and,where appropriate,restora- Website: www.highmtn.com There are many reasons for the varying protec- tion of the fish, wildlife, and plant resources...for the Email: [email protected] tions offered to each differently designated public benefit of present and future generations of land. Each has separate purposes. Take Yellowstone Americans. Wildlife Expeditionsmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Wildlife Discovery Expedition A fascinating full-day among the animals with an expert wildlife biologist. Sunrise and Sunset Expeditions A family-friendly four-hour introduction to western wildlife and their spectacular habitat. Old Faithful Expedition Explore the wildlife, scenery WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS and history of Yellowstone PO Box 7580 • Jackson WY 83002 National Park. 1.888.945.3567 Multi-Day Expeditions www.wildlifeexpeditions.org Wolves and Bears Expeditions Great Parks Expeditions 307.733.2623 Winter Wolves of Yellowstone Year-round expeditions Customized and private trips also!

12 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006

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Lands in the National Wilderness Preservation violated with obvious long-term and permanent System are administered to leave them unimpaired deleterious effects upon all of those directives. for future use and enjoyment as wilderness. Use is The management of roadless areas is confusion. NEW! ™ strictly regulated. These are areas within the National Forest system Nikon® D200 Set National forests are to be managed both for mul- that remained, as of 1999, largely untouched by Faster when it counts. tiple use and also for sustained yield of the products human intervention.Unfortunately,by 2006 the Chief Rugged where it matters. and services of the forests. Use, therefore, is less of the U.S.Forest Service was looking at certain road- High-performance 10.2 Megapixel CCD Sensor, coupled with Nikon's exclusive restricted than on other public lands, except perhaps less areas for timber harvest. When you get home, image processing engine Bureau of Land Management lands. dear traveler, please write your Congressman. Set includes: D200 camera body MH-18a Quick Charger, EN-EL3e Although the Congressional declaration of policy Li-ion Rechargeable Battery and Nikon PictureProject™ software LENS SOLD SEPARATELY required that BLM lands be managed in a manner But, you’re on vacation.Whether this is your first “that will protect the quality of scientific, scenic, his- visit to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks Optically Advanced torical,ecological,environmental,air and atmos- or to the or to any of the pheric, water resource, and archeological values....,”a gateway communities bordering on the Greater too short drive to the Red Desert area south of the Yellowstone Ecosystem, you will take home memo- Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem will demonstrate all ries of the glorious natural wonders preserved for too vividly that Congress’s original intent is being you in your public lands. Enjoy one of the world’s largest arrays of thermal features in Yellowstone, the world’s largest cold- water geyser near Afton,Wyoming, the 8x32 Premier SE Series impressive mountains throughout • High resolution, fully multicoated optics • Nikon's superior technology (with special attention to the Grand • BaK4 high index prisms Tetons), the several national wildlife • Long eye relief for eyeglass wearers refuges,the scenic rivers,the high-alti- We are a full line camera store. tude Lake Yellowstone, the national forests. We carry the full line Enjoy seeing wildlife, much of it at of Nikon Binoculars. ease where hunting is not allowed. Enjoy fishing and boating on placid lakes or on fast-flowing rivers. Enjoy walking, hiking, or climbing.Smell the flowers. 307-733-3831 60 S. Cache Street Bert Raynes writes a weekly col- umn in the Jackson Hole News & Jackson, WY 83001 Guide. He has penned five publica- Open Daily tions covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His latest book, Nikon Authorized Dealer Winter Wings,joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiv- ing well-deserved, wide acclaim.

Top: Sandhill cranes sometimes flock by the hundreds and have a wingspan of six-to-seven feet. 25-year limited warranty included on all Nikon binoculars. Left: A hooked cutthroat trout All Nikon products include Nikon Inc. USA limited warranty. contemplates its next run against ©2006 Nikon Inc.

Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature (cranes); Wade McKoy (fish) by Nature (cranes); Wade Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild this catch-and-release fisherman. www.nikondigital.com

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 13 White Water, Blue Water The heart and pulse of Jackson Hole courses through its Snake River

by Ed Bushnell he Tetons may be the big scenic draw to the area, but the Snake River is Jackson Hole’s Tproverbial heart. All that we love about Jackson Hole—its history, its wildlife, and its beauty —can be appreciated and experienced from the river. More accessible than the lofty mountain peaks, the Snake plays host to hundreds of thousands of recre- ation-seekers every year—be they rafters, fishers, kayakers, even sailors—as it meanders the 100 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone National Park to where it exits the Snake River Canyon. Most people think of white-water rafting when they think of the Snake River, and white-water trips are indeed the most popular way for tourists to expe- rience what early trappers to the area called the “Mad River.” But the Snake travels many miles and offers visitors and locals boatloads of opportunities to enjoy the river before it enters the famous white- water stretch just south of Jackson Hole. The Snake’s headwaters are located in the Absaroka Mountains, right on the border between southeastern Yellowstone National Park and the Teton Wilderness. The fledgling river is off-limits When it’s breezy, boating on Jackson Lake includes windsurfing (top, boardsailor: for floaters (as are all rivers in Yellowstone), but Doug Coombs); Lunch Counter rapid, known to contain one of the West’s best surfing only the heartiest of boaters would attempt the waves, thrills kayakers (above) and rafters (top right). The flat-water section from Pacific Creek to Deadman’s Landing (bottom right) doubles as the hot-spot for scenic cascading stream as it courses toward the park’s fishing and lazy floating. southern boundary. Shortly after crossing out of Yellowstone Park,the

14 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 More accessible than the lofty mountain peaks, the Snake plays host to hundreds of thousands of recreation-seekers every year—be they rafters, fishers, kayak- ers, even sailors—as it meanders the 100 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone National Park to where it exits the Snake River Canyon. Photographers: Bob Woodall (boating); Wade McKoy (windsurfing) (boating); Wade Photographers: Bob Woodall

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 15 river descends into the short, narrow Flagg Canyon. see fit to put on the water. Several marinas in Grand So much more than This section of river varies greatly in difficulty Teton National Park rent boats to visitors. Big Macs® and depending on the season, from raging white-water in At Jackson Lake dam, the river begins a 25-mile the spring runoff season to the low,lazy waters of late journey through the southern half of Grand Teton world famous fries. summer.Lulled by the undemanding trip one August, National Park. This is the heart of Jackson Hole, this author returned to float this section the following offering the best views and wildlife-viewing oppor- Come in and see spring and chose to climb the near-sheer walls with tunities in the area. Joan Anzelmo, spokeswoman for his kayak in order to exit the canyon rather than con- the park, said a float trip through the park is an what’s new! tinue through a churning hell of reversals, undercut excellent way for a park visitor to experience the ledges, and whirlpools. Flagg Canyon is best experi- beauty of the Tetons. enced by a guided trip so visitors can avoid sharing “It’s like floating through a paint- the author’s experience. ing,”Anzelmo said. Several miles below Flagg Canyon, the river flows But, she added, the river can be dangerous. into Jackson Lake.The lake is a popular place for peo- Although there is no significant white-water on the ple to enjoy the Tetons from motorboat, sailboat, stretch from Jackson Lake Dam to Moose, frequent Premium Chicken Sandwiches windsurfers, sea kayak, or any other craft one might strainers (obstacles such as downed trees hidden just featuring Ranch BLT, Club, Classic & Spicy underwater) and braided channels make navigating Chicken Selects® • Premium Salads the river challenging and dangerous to the inexperi- Fruit&Walnut Salad enced boater. “It appears at times to be a tranquil river, but it’s Fruit&Yogurt Parfaits full of surprises,”she warned. Anzelmo urged inexperienced river users to take Fresh Baked Cookies & Great Desserts any one of the numerous commercial scenic float ® McGriddles , Bagels and trips through the park. A guided trip allows the visi- Platters at Breakfast tor to focus on the mountains and the wildlife, while Open & serving your favorites the guide figures out where to go. Park Ranger Marty Meyer said participants in 5:30 am to midnight everyday park river trips are apt to spot eagles, otters, moose, Free Wi-Fi with purchase trumpeter swans, and the occasional bison among 1110 Broadway @ Hwy 22 Since 1964 the numerous representatives of the area wildlife.The 307-733-4410 • 1-800-358-8184 best time to see wildlife along the river is in the early Jackson Hole, WY • 307-733-7444 www.sandswhitewater.com mornings or the evenings. For experienced boaters eager to float the Snake on their own, though, Meyer suggested the five-mile stretch between Jackson Lake Dam and Pacific Creek. ILD by ATURE Not only is this the easiest section of river in the park, W N it’s also one of the best sections for wildlife viewing. To bring a private craft on the Snake River (or any GALLERY other body of water) in Grand Teton National Park, visitors must first obtain a boat permit ($10 for the week, $20 for the season for non-motorized boats) from the visitor’s center.Meyer cautions private users to always treat the river seriously, and always wear floatation devices. After flowing out of the park, the river makes its way through the southern half of Jackson Hole, with calm waters prevailing through most of this 40-mile stretch. Several companies offer scenic float trips on different sections of this part of the river. Since this part of the Snake passes only a few miles from down- town Jackson, these trips should appeal to visitors who want to experience the river but who only have a few hours to spare. After the river leaves Jackson Hole, it enters the Snake River Canyon. As the mountains close in, the river grows more turbulent, passing through an eight-mile section of Class III (intermediate) white- water. This is the popular white-water run, and over half a dozen companies provide commercial trips “First Kiss” through the canyon. Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by The first half of the white-water section contains Henry H. Holdsworth a series of easy-to-moderate rapids,including Station Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards Creek Drop, the S-Turns, and Cutbanks.Although not 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 technically difficult, these rapids harbor thrilling www.wildbynaturegallery.com wave trains that provide rafters and kayakers with a

16 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Wade McKoy photos Wade

necessary warm-up for the bigger water below. In the high water of spring,many of these rapids run together,offering little respite for a two-mile stretch. This section of the river also contains the best “surfing”waves and other “play spots”for kayakers. The behemoth rapids of the river, Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter,surprise boaters with a one-two punch after a long calm stretch marking the midpoint of the white-water journey.Kahuna consists of two giant waves: the first wave sends boaters’ stom- achs flipping while they drop into the deep trough of the wave and over the high crest; the second wave slams into the disorient- ed boaters. Lunch counter follows immediately, and offers waves as high as 10 feet where rock walls pinch the river into the run’s narrowest section. Dropping into Lunch Counter and spying that first wave towering above their heads gives rafters and kayakers as big a thrill as they could experience on the world’s biggest roller coasters. Several of the most notable rapids on the river come near the end of the white-water run. Rope Rapid consists of a long, fun wave-train, starting with the powerful Hollywood Curl which, if hit correctly,will wash over the front of a raft,soaking its passen- gers (who are already wet from Kahuna and Lunch Counter). Champagne is a short pushy froth of waves marking an underwa- ter waterfall. The name of the rapid comes from the millions of air bubbles that rise to the river’s surface in the calm waters fol- A sub-species unique to these waters, the fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout lowing the rapid. (above) thrives with the help of good fishing management and habitat rehabilitation. As a general rule, the Snake is more challenging earlier in the Lupine (top) flourish in meadows and woodlands near the riverbank. year. The water is higher and faster, continued page 19

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800-458-(RAFT) 307-733-6203 • www.mad-river.com [email protected] MEET HERE

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 17 Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall The West Coast meets the Wild West as surfers tackle the Snake’s Lunch Counter rapids (above). This immature bald eagle (right), and scores of its brethren who also nest along this scenic stream, prize the river for its fish. Western Waterways GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK WEST OF YELLOWSTONE Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft,except on Jackson and Jenny West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis lakes, where powerboats are allowed. Launches along the Snake River access Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon, and idyllic floating to its confluence with a variety of waters. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Info: (307) the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-2337. 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small power boats can be rented at Everything from power boats to paddle craft can put in on four lakes near Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. West Yellowstone. Outboards can be rented at Hebgen Lake, while paddle boats and motorized “personal water craft”are available at Henry’s Lake. Info: BRIDGER TETON NATIONAL FOREST (406) 646-7701. Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self registration, while not GREEN RIVER & PINEDALE AREA required, is available at West Table. Info: (307) 739-5444. The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fish- ing. For information call (307) 367-4352. Fremont and Half Moon lakes, near Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challeng- Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, ing rapids. Call (307) 739-5400 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sail- CODY & THE NORTH FORK boats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the sailboats). Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK River info: (307) 527-7125, hiking and camping info: (307) 527-6921. In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, and sail- Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill boats are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes,but only paddle boats on Shoshone Reservoir, west of Cody.Info: (307) 587-9227. Lake.All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Info: (307) 344-7381.

18 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 continued from page 17 allowing for big rapids in the white-water sections and swirling currents in the normally calm sections. The threat of strainers increases of course, and the fast current makes avoiding these obstacles difficult. The water is very cold; after all, June runoff was fed by May’s snowpack. As the season progresses, the water level drops and the temperature—both air and water—rises, but the river clears and most rapids diminish in size. For all the excitement it provides, the Snake FLAT CREEK INN River Canyon is generally quite safe. However, river users should never take white water lightly: Some “Where quality, service nasty surprises await careless boaters. Two gigantic “holes”—large waves of constantly re-circulating and affordability are one” water—are located on the upper half of the white- water run, Taco Hole and 3 Oar Deal. Both obstacles All rooms complete with could be fatal to boaters who inadvertently enter microwaves, mini-fridge, them,and both are difficult to see from upstream.As coffee maker and free with the rest of the river, inexperienced boaters continental breakfast. should enjoy this section by taking part in a com- mercial trip, and experienced boaters should study Summer & Winter the river before descending it. Packages Available Ed Bushnell is a freelance writer and journalist 1935 N. Hwy 89, 1 mile living in Teton Valley, Idaho. north of town of Jackson 307-733-5276 Nature’s hand in water and wood 800-438-9338 few years ago noted Wyoming angler and eagles working the river, or elk, moose, and deer www.flatcreekinn.com guide A.J. DeRosa, owner of Wooden Boat in the bottomlands. email: [email protected] ARiver Tours, had a revelation. “I realized I Because the trip is private, photographers, Great Rooms at Great Rates could give the non-angling floater the same kind bird watchers, or sightseers—amateur or pro— of personal service and attention that my fly fish- are all afforded the luxury of stopping whenever ers enjoyed,”says DeRosa. they want. DeRosa’s lavish excursions utilize traditional, Typically, the half-day excursions take from 4 A.J. DeRosa’s hand-crafted wooden dories, finished to perfec- to 6 hours and are offered in three formats. The tion by DeRosa and his guides—river-tour evernight trip, though, includes dinner and Wooden Boat experts who are also long-time, year-round locals breakfast and a stay in a teepee that will accom- with an extensive knowledge of river ecology and modate up to six adventurous family members Jackson Hole. looking for that something extra. All other trips River Tours Clients float the scenic 13 miles of the Snake provide a meal appropriate to the time of day.The private river River from the Wilson Bridge to the South Park sunrise tour, for example, serves up a brunch, tour experts Bridge. The tour’s focus: wildlife, flora, riparian while the sunset tour provides hors d’ oeuvres— since 1978 habitat, the river land’s majestic scenery—what- and passengers may bring along their own adult ever the clients are most interested in. The Snake beverage. A gourmet meal, complete with can- is home to a diverse array of birds and mammals, dles, tops off the romantic, evening dinner float. and it’s not uncommon to see osprey and bald — Bob Woodall

• Yellowstone Sea Kayaking Tours • Whitewater Duckie Trips • Guided Fishing Trips • Lessons, Sales, Rentals

Located in downtown Jackson Hole 732-BOAT (2628) 307-733-9999 • 800-KAYAK-01 (800-529-2501) • www.snakeriverkayak.com www.woodboattours.com www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 19 Photos: left and bottom right—Wade McKoy; top right—Bob Woodall What Lies Beneath

There’s only one catch to catching the fishing habit—the fish aren’t the only Trout fishing the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem things that get hooked.

by Paul Bruun ishermen are a funny bunch. No levels at an acceptable level. But winter than in recent years, as will natural subject incites more enthusiasm 05/06 has been filled with snow that lakes. Downstream flows that ensue Faround local tackle departments, continued to fall on and off throughout from these conditions will also be tying benches, or fly shops than what this spring. This means that dam-con- enriched by this water surplus. the upcoming water year will offer. trolled reservoirs will be much fuller A good snow year translates into bet- Analyzing potential runoff, dam releas- ter surface forage for wildlife as well as es, and lake and river levels are to fish- more available water for irrigators and ing enthusiasts what Dow Jones and aquatic populations. A lengthy, cold, Standard and Poor’s statistics are to seri- wet winter and spring also may alter ous investors. when ice comes off certain lakes, when The two words that summarize sum- runoffs begin and, ultimately, how mer/fall 2006 water conditions for the water storage and river flows will be Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone managed. Although it sounds complex, Area are VERY GOOD! the resulting higher water in many A prolonged draught in the region reservoirs will allow for cooler flows in was slightly interrupted last year by a major rivers surrounding Yellowstone The big water of the Snake sometimes calls wet spring that kept runoff and water for the smallest of flies. Park and in Idaho and Wyoming.

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 21 This beautiful cutthroat trout (above) was released unharmed, not only insuring the health of the fishery but guaranteeing another thrill for the next catch-and-release angler. Stunning, but ever-changing, side-channel waters of the Snake tempt both anglers and oarsmen (below).

Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and the South Fork of the Snake in Idaho have recently been adjusted to allow year-round fishing.

Because so many superb trout rivers lie within an easy day’s drive from northwest Wyoming, area con- ditions affect a growing number of recreationists. The Army Corps of Engineers and the Bureau of Reclamation, government agencies that oversee major and minor water storage projects, are actually growing more sensitive to fishing and recreational interests when it comes to preparing dam-flow and lake-level regimes. Agriculture will always be the major agency focus. However, inroads recently made by state biologists, nonprofit environmental groups, anglers, boaters, and rafters have improved how and when water is released. River and stream levels vary because drainage runoff timetables differ. Anglers may target low- lying lakes during the early river-runoff periods. Higher-altitude lakes often are not free of ice until sometime in June/July, so plan hikes and pack trips accordingly. 22 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Fishing season dates on waters in states sur- that opens on August 1. An extensive section of this rounding Yellowstone National Park may vary slight- stream meanders through Jackson. ly, but a majority of waters are fishable by Memorial CODY Day weekend. Yellowstone Park requires purchase of This East Yellowstone Entrance community a fishing permit, available from visitor stations. named for the famous Wild West personality offers a Check park as well as state regulations to avoid variety oflake,reservoir,and stream fishing.Cody waters closed until later dates or covered by special anglers enjoy numerous insect hatches emerging restrictions. from the North Fork of the Shoshone. This popular Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and the South river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir and Fork of the Snake in Idaho have recently been adjust- offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout ed to allow year-round fishing. In Wyoming, the are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be sure to note Snake’s trout harvest season runs from April 1 Wyoming G&F regs. for April 1-July 1 spawning clo- through October 31. Catch-and-release trout fishing sure on portions of river and reservoir. is permitted from November 1 until March 31. For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, In an effort to protect resident native cutthroat Wyoming’s only federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic trout strains from growing rainbow trout intrusion, River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short Idaho biologists have implemented a year-round drive from Cody. catch-and-release regulation on cutthroats in the Located within easy hiking access to the fabulous South Fork of the Snake and a special limit on brown Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilder- trout.The new annual upper-South Fork trout season ness fishing lakes. Get local fly shop recommenda- encourages the unlimited harvest of rainbows to pro- tions to a variety of high lakes,where cutthroat,gold- tect cutthroat spawning.This regulation is controver- en, and rainbow trout are available to fly and spin sial and some anglers still release rainbows while fishermen after late June. These lakes are excellent others may keep a few. float-tube waters. East and West Newton lakes, a few minute’s drive outside Cody, offer easily accessible Regional Fishing trout opportunity, and a variety of species and tech- Destinations niques may be employed. WEST YELLOWSTONE JACKSON HOLE Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone In addition to its own excellent fisheries, Jackson National Park, this area is the jumping-off point to is surrounded by other great angling destinations. many legendary Western rivers, including the Many visitors base in Jackson and make day-fishing Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, trips outside the valley. Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year-round. The Snake is world headquarters to its own strain of fine- ToTo usus it’sit’s moremore thanthan justjust catchingcatching fish;fish; spotted cutthroat trout and is also the state’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular major attraction fished by most anglers. Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July arrive. Deepwater trolling becomes popular until September, when fish will again be found in shallow- er water. Lake trout or mackinaw that may reach 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep lakes. Lewis and Shoshone, lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone, are excellent brown and lake-trout fisheries that anglers can access from the end of May (depending on weather) through the end of October. Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift it’s about protecting the throughout the summer until mid-September. A environment, preserving the fisheries steep gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best fished by floating. The native cutthroat and ecosystems for future generations. is exceptionally enthusiastic about dry flies and also ClackaCraft is truly dedicated to conservation, our goal chases streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. We have two convenient locations to serve you: Grasshopper fishing in August and September is a is to generate over $100,000 for conservation each cherished part of the Snake’s seasonal anthology. year by partnering with such worthy organizations ClackaCraft of Idaho Falls Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wading such as the Jackson Hole One Fly Foundation, The 2700 N Yellowstone Hwy Idaho Falls, ID 83401 are the Hoback,Gros Ventre,and Buffalo,as well as Henry’s Fork Foundation and Trout Unlimited. 1-800-394-1345 Flat, Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early July. After it Mountain Drift Boats clears in July, the Buffalo fishes well into late 95 W. Center St. Victor, ID 83455 September. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a 208-313-7720 Photos: top—Wade McKoy; bottom—Bob Woodall Photos: top—Wade challenging fly-fishing-only spring creek-like stream www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 23 Gallatin, and more. The eagerly anticipated and During the morning widely acclaimed salmon fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around the calm, trout locally termed Fourth of July. The Firehole,America’s most unusual trout river, “gulpers” cruise between is fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and surface blankets of thermal springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown trout population also flourishes in the tiny “Trico” mayflies, Madison in the park, where excellent mayfly and sipping constantly. caddis hatches thrive until hopper fishing takes over in August. By mid-September, spawning fish from downstream in Hebgen Lake move up into park July. During the morning calm, trout locally termed waters, providing exciting action until park fishing “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny closes in early November. This stone fly casing—a mere shell of both its “Trico” mayflies, sipping constantly.A little later, the Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of former self and the beautiful bug it became— Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies as the the area’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning in mid- signals good times for both fish and angler. trout party hits high gear. The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flourish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides an exceptional range of catch- and-release fishing opportunities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable to watch as the daily trout menu constantly changes. Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursue its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes but from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy success from many beaches and shores along adjacent park roads and parking areas. PINEDALE Lying 75 miles south of Jackson but situated at a higher altitude, this Old West ranching community along the Oregon Trail offers a variety of west-slope hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid and its endless collection of trout-filled lakes. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, where they ulti- Be Prepared Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather condi- tions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest

MERRELL.COM and sturdy rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning, so cease casting dur- ing thunderstorms. Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranch lands and locales that harbor standing snow melt during the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are helpful. Keep a cur- rent aerosol pepper-spray dispenser handy whenever fishing in bear coun- 733-6207 36 EAST BROADWAY ON THE SQUARE try (which is just about everywhere). www.theclogstore.com Remember that bears like to fish, too.

24 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 4UVOOJOH7JFXT -VYVSZ"NFOJUJFT 4MPQFTJEFBU ǰF5FUPO .PVOUBJO -PEHF

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Photos: (left) Bob Woodall; (right) Wade McKoy (right) Wade Photos: (left) Bob Woodall; (0-' '*4) 4,*-*7&

Trout thrive in the crystal clear waters of the Rocky Mountain West.

mately join near the “Nation’s Icebox,” small-boat angling opportunities. Big Piney. SOUTHEASTERN IDAHO High prairie subtly camouflages Giant stoneflies and other excep- exceptional fishing for browns and tional western aquatic insect hatches rainbows in both the Green and small- historically highlight fishing experi- er New Fork. Flowing from the Green ences on the Henry’s and South Fork of River Lakes, the upper Green features the Snake River. Fed by Big Spring and extensive public access areas and Henry’s Lake Outlet, the Henry’s Fork campgrounds. Upstream from the near Last Chance,Idaho,is renowned Warren Bridge, under which the Green for its salmon fly hatch, which begins flows, on U. S. Highway 189/191, are a around Memorial Day.This river’s pro- number of BLM access areas. lific insect hatches attract trout lovers Downstream from here the river is from all over the world who enjoy chal- confined to mostly private lands, dot- lenging its selective rainbows. ted with a few Game and Fish Dept. The South Fork, which begins in 5DUH7HWRQ6SULQJV5DQFK/RW public-access points. Floating is popu- Wyoming and then crosses into Idaho VHHLQVLGHFRYHU lar on both rivers beginning in early above Palisades Reservoir, is the coun- July when they clear.Check local shops try’s largest native-cutthroat and tro- 4QFDJBMJ[JOHJO#VZFS3FQSFTFOUBUJPO for access information. phy brown trout fishery. Despite being The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. such a sizeable river, anglers are fre- i:063"$&*/5)&)0-&w continues to successfully reintroduce quently required to use delicate fishing once-native cutthroat subspecies to skills to fool its abundant fish. Both many Pinedale,Daniel,and Big Piney rivers have local outfitters and fly -DFN'HOD\ tributary streams as well as the shops or may be accessed by Jackson $VVRFLDWH%URNHU Green itself. Hole outfitters. A special angling treat is found in 937HWRQ%RDUGRI 5HDOWRUV Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Paul Bruun has edited several MDFN#WHWRQYLOODJHUHDOW\FRP Wind River foothills. This is home to newspapers, writes the weekly  grayling, the unusual trout-like fish “Outdoors” column in the Jackson that wears an extremely large dorsal Hole News & Guide and contributes to fin highlighted with delicate outdoor magazines. He operates his red/purple spotting. Grayling will- 2IÀFHV/RFDWHG2Q7KH own fly-fishing float-trip service, /REE\/HYHO2I 7KH7HWRQ ingly sip small flies and tiny spin- founded the South Fork skiff drift 0RXQWDLQ/RGJH6ORSHVLGHLQ ning lures. Also vehicle-accessible boat company, and served 12 years on 7HWRQ9LOODJH -XVW2II WKH are Soda and Willow lakes, which the Jackson Town Council during his 7RZQ6TXDUH,QWKH+HDUWRI  provide excellent float-tube and 33 years in Jackson. 'RZQWRZQ-DFNVRQ

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 25 The Higher You Get Obeying the urge to merge with the mountain

by Tom Turiano

Stephen Koch (above) solos the Lower Exum Direct route on the Grand Teton. Doug Coombs (left) climbs the Grand.

limbers are driven When I look at mountains, I stare at the intrica- cies of distant ridgelines, smooth granite faces, and by a desire to snowfields. My heart begins to beat faster and my Cbecome one with palms begin to sweat as the excitement, trepidation, the scenery. We set our and adventure of past climbing experiences wash over me once again. I make detailed mental notes of sights on a beautiful moun- mountain features as I plan my next climb. tain, start climbing toward Even if you have never climbed, you still might it, and turn around after have felt the urge to merge with the scenery.You may have wondered what it would be like to walk that high reaching the summit to ridge or stand on the apex of that mountain. But look back down to where rather than suppressing that urge, try yielding to it. Consider climbing with one of Jackson Hole’s out- we started. What once was standing mountaineering guide services. a beautiful image viewed A guide will patiently show you the basics of from afar is now sheer movement over rock, snow, and steep mountainous terrain.You’ll also learn rope work, an integral part of beauty viewed from within. mountaineering that includes belaying, rappelling, 26 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 and rope management. Guides will also carefully the state. Gannett, though, is definitely on the screen choose climbing suited to your ability and confi- for guide services. EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES dence levels. Most importantly, they’ll provide that The arresting allure of the Tetons’ peaks doesn’t Explore the VerticalVertical!! outdoor classroom have to be enjoyed where you will apply “When I look at mountains, I stare only from a dis- Learn to Climb the basic skills. tance. Those moun- • Daily Instruction After a day or at the intricacies of distant ridge- taintops await the at Jenny Lake two of practice, you lines, smooth granite faces, and experienced climber & Teton Village might decide that as well as the curi- • Family Activities. climbing just isn’t ous visitor. Teton • Private Guides snowfields. My heart begins to Available for you. More than guides are some of likely, though, you’ll beat faster and my palms begin to the most seasoned Climb the Grand Teton be inspired to join mountain climbers & Famous Teton Peaks.

Greg VonDoersten photos Greg VonDoersten sweat as the excitement, trepida- your guide for in the world. They All Skill Levels - Beginner to Expert ascents of some of tion, and adventure of past climb- can provide safe,no- • One-Day Climbs the Tetons’ more nonsense leadership • - Wind River Range notable summits, ing experiences wash over me to the best climbing like Baxter’s once again. I make detailed men- this area has to offer. Pinnacle, Symmetry So go ahead,give in Spire, and tal notes of mountain features as I to that urge. Find a Disappointment guide, and be a Reservations 307-733-2297 Peak. And if you plan my next climb.” climber. www.exumguides.com really enjoy the

mountain life—and display adequate aptitude—you Thomas Turiano, 39, has summitted mountains BORN PROFESSIONALLY might even embark on a two-day ascent of the Grand over 1,000 times and is particularly fond of wander- Teton (13,770 feet) or (12,605 feet). ing in the backcountry on foot, on skis, and by raft. For a still bigger shot of adventure in the vast He guides for Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Wyoming wilderness, local guides offer multi-day Hole Alpine Guides and is the author of Teton expeditions to Cirque of the Towers or Gannett Peak Skiing: A History and Guide,and Select Peaks of in the Wind River Mountains. Although it’s off of Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and most tourists’radar screens,Gannett Peak perches 34 Guide (www.selectpeaks.com). Authorized Concession of Grand Teton National Park feet above the Grand, making it the highest point in and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

SET OUT WITH FOOD, RETURN WITH GREAT TALES OF ADVENTURE

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 27 Walking Among Giants Tread softly and carry a big stick by David Swift elcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains. Perhaps you Water. Sip water constantly.You’re probably not accustomed to our higher alti- gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which tudes, so your heart and lungs are working overtime. Constant hydration keeps Wremains well hidden from roadside turnouts. you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not peeing a bit more than usual, Or perhaps you don’t feel much at all—just an urge to wander in the woods, to you’re not drinking enough water. see what the big deal is. In case you’re wondering if they are utilitarian or merely fashionable, No matter how tuned-in or oblivious you feel, you may also have an urge to Camelbacks and similar water packs have become a standard feature amongst seri- “feel free,”to shun encumbrances.Just remember this: they shoot those SUV com- ous roamers. For a day-trip or longer tote one of those handy, light water filters. mercials with an enormous crew, plus the catering van, cropped out of the money Food. Splurge, taking more than you need. Make it real food. shot. In real life you’ll want to hedge against the plethora of possibilities that often Layers. Minimally, carry a windproof shell. Both a pile jacket and a shell precede misadventure. means you’ll enjoy a long picnic on a breezy, exposed ridge. If the shell is water- In order of probability,your bad day will be due to weather,getting lost,crum- proof, your preparation is all the more bombproof. Add a foam butt pad, hat, my planning, overconfidence, bad luck, and/or wildlife. gloves, and bottom layers and suddenly you’re prepared for quite the ordeal. Weather, by far, leads to most epics simply because being wet quickly compli- Space blanket. Yes, the tinfoil look goes in and out of fashion, but come des- cates matters.Wetness causes rapid loss of body heat,disorientation,falls,and lost peration time a space blanket can compensate for your continued page 31 time, which in turn leads to early darkness. Hiking on the west side of the Tetons, where you won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you,is a classic trap.Leave your car under all-blue skies,scram- ble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, gaze around—and you’re under a dark and heavy canopy of impending wetness. Happens all the time. One may quibble at which point a convenience becomes a necessity but things are necessary in roughly this order:

With spectacular views just a short day-hike away, it’s no wonder Grand Teton National Park (right) attracts travelers from around the world. The southern Tetons (above) are com- prised of the Bridger-Teton and Targhee national forests, the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area, and Grand Teton National Park. Photos: Wade McKoy Photos: Wade

28 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Try These Day Hikes by Rebecca Woods GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK concentration of geysers in the world. Inexpensive

Hikers can’t resist -dropping beauty of the brochures available at the visitor center outline 2- to 4- S Tetons.The east shore of offers the best back- mile loop walks. H country views of Mount Moran in the park. The massive PINEDALE Imo’s Deli peak towers over 4,000 feet above the lakeshore,its rocky Pinedale is the jumping-off point for trips into the slopes mirrored in Leigh’s crystalline water.Wildflowers Wind River Range.Forty summits top 13,000 feet in this thrive in the lush understory of the forested trail, and O dramatic Rocky Mountain chain, led by 13,804 foot moose are frequently spotted dining on aquatic vegeta- TK Gannet, the highest point in the state. While oriented tion near the shore. Walk as far as you wish; it is 7.4 towards longer trips, Green River Lakes and miles roundtrip to the end of the trail. The path begins Photographer’s Point are excellent day hikes.Green River LUNCH & DINNER at the north end of Outlet parking area, Lakes is a 6.5-mile loop venture that showcases Square SELECTIONS reached by turning west at North Jenny Lake Junction. Top Mountain, the most photographed peak in the A dawn or dusk 1.2-mile range. The 9-mile roundtrip Ready to Eat or Semi prepared roundtrip walk along level hike to Photographer’s Point is • Sandwiches Sawmill Ponds Bench is a satis- rewarded with a show-stopping • Baked Goods fying way to start or end a sum- vista of the northern Wind • Daily Lunch Specials mer day. The bench offers a River Range. But then, what • Hot Soup & Chili bird’s-eye view into a riparian would you expect from a place • Thin Crust Pizza area frequented by wildlife and called Photographer’s Point? • Wall Street Journal & waterfowl. The trail is an old dirt Inquire locally for directions. New York Times road that once led to a small • Fresh Meat & Fish ranch occupied in the 1920s. CODY Scattered timber, concrete foot- Teddy Roosevelt pro- •ATM ings, and cabin walls still poke nounced the 52-mile stretch of Most Complete Deli through the sagebrush. The hike road between Cody and & Grocery Store on begins at a large pullout 1.2 Yellowstone the most scenic . the Valley’s Westside miles from the Moose end of the blacktop in the United States. Moose-Wilson Road across from Designated the Buffalo Bill Cody 6 miles Before Ski Area In the Aspens on Teton Village Rd park headquarters. Scenic Byway in 1996, U.S. Literally dozens of wonder- Highway 14/16/20 follows the OPEN DAILY 7:30AM ful trails outside Grand Teton North Fork of the Shoshone 307-733-6202 National Park await exploration. River through the Absaroka Short hikes can pay big dividends Mountains to Yellowstone’s East Ski Lake is a 4.8-mile roundtrip in waterfalls and wildflowers. hike popular among wildflower Entrance. Thirty-eight miles enthusiasts. Nestled in a cirque at the base of the south- out of Cody, at the end of an unimproved road 1.5 miles WESTSIDE ern Tetons, this charming tarn is virtually hidden until south of Blackwater Lodge, is the trailhead to the you are upon it. The trailhead is located halfway up Blackwater Fire Memorial. This National Recreation off signed Phillips Canyon Road. Park at the Trail follows Blackwater Creek to a point near the origin WINE & start of that road or in the large unpaved lot across the of a 1937 fire that killed 15 CCC forest firefighters—the highway 20 yards to the southeast. most deadly conflagration in the state to date. Those with time may wish to continue ascending the scenic YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK trail beyond the memorial to the summit of Clayton SPIRITS Visitors to the world’s first national park have over Mountain, where outstanding views of Buffalo Bill 1,000 miles of trail at their feet. Those on a tight time Reservoir and the Continental Divide unfold. tether should not miss the South Canyon Rim Trail from Artist Point to the Upper Falls. The path follows the rim DUBOIS The biggest and of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, a deep chasm Traveling west out of Dubois on U.S. Hwy 26/287 cut by the powerful Yellowstone River. Both the Lower towards Togwotee Pass, visitors soak in one of the most best selection and Upper Falls are showcased on this 3.2-mile stunning roadside panoramas in the West—a 2-mile roundtrip excursion. Those in good physical condition stretch of stratified volcanic cliffs and pinnacles that of fine wines, can easily extend their canyon exploration with a spec- soar over a thousand feet into the sky.Upper and Lower tacular side trip down Uncle Tom’s Trail. This short but Jade lakes’bottle-green waters reflect the colorful band- beers, and spirits very steep, one-mile path plunges 500 feet into the ed formations and surrounding countryside beautifully. canyon via a series of steel-grate steps. It ends at a plat- The 4.8-mile roundtrip hike to the lakes is among the on the form near the base of 308-foot Lower Falls, offering a most rewarding half-day excursions in the entire close-up view worth every gasp on the way back up.Both region. The Jade Lakes trailhead is located adjacent to West Bank trails are accessed off the South Canyon Rim/Artist Brooks Lake Campground, accessed by turning off the Point Road,located between Canyon and Lake junctions. highway onto the signed Brooks Lake Recreation Area The 4-mile Elephant Back Loop Trail one mile south access road. Located at The Aspens, Teton Village Rd. of Fishing Bridge Junction leads to a superb overlook of Rebecca Woods is a naturalist and author of four Yellowstone Lake, Pelican Valley, and the Absaroka respected guidebooks to the region: Jackson Hole 307-733-5038 Mountains.And,while you certainly won’t have the place Hikes,Targhee Trails,Walking the Winds,and Beyond [email protected] to yourself, the boardwalk around Upper Geyser Basin the Tetons. opposite Old Faithful Inn weaves through the largest

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 29 Remembering DougDoug CoombsCoombs

Doug Coombs skiing Teton Pass, Wyoming, and in base camp at Mount Vinson, Antarctica.

From the publishers—Friend, colleague, and ski icon Doug Coombs lost his life this spring in a skiing accident in the French Alps while coming to the aid of a fellow skier (Chad VanderHam, also deceased) who had slipped on ice and fallen over a cliff. He is survived by his wife Emily and son David. Doug touched thousands of lives through his skiing, climbing, guiding, and teaching. Hundreds of those stories are posted online at dougcoombsmemorial- fund.com. Here is one from Mark Newcomb. Many writers and magazine editors will record that Doug took skiing to a new level, He physically skied every run,then mentally skied them all again,often out loud. And again, pushed the boundaries of the sport, that sort of talk. Maybe. But those boundaries had pre- you sat and listened and learned. And laughed. A lot. viously been drawn by guys like Patrick Vallencent and Pierre Tardivel for steep, you-fall- I met Doug as he was pushing into the realm of,shall we say,non-lift assisted ski moun- you-die skiing; by Scott Schmidt for big air and fluidity; by Bill Briggs for technical ski taineering. Along with being king of the steeps, he was also the king of the poach, finagling mountaineering; by Hans Kammerlander and others in Himalayan ski mountaineering. more free lift,tram,and heli rides than any ten ski bums put together.Ultimately,though,he MWhat Doug did bring to skiing in the late 80s was a liquid-smooth, deceivingly power- loved the mountains and realized that many stunning lines could only be accessed the old ful, utterly natural turn the likes of which had not been seen before. His incomprehensibly fashioned way—by climbing or hiking. fast reaction speed and sixth sense kept him always on—but never over—the sharp edge of I watched Doug’s mountain climbing skills progress from starting up the beginner walls disaster. It was this combination of qualities that made him unique in the realm of big at the local rock climbing gym (I first taught him how to use the belay device there) to waltz- mountains and big faces. He was truly the king of steeps. ing up 5.11 rock climbs and passing his AMGA rock-guide exam (with very strict require- Cameramen loved Coombs. His speed, power, and keen sense for the perfect line made ments on rock-climbing ability).And his mountaineering skills and judgment made a sim- him the ideal skier to film.He could look at a slope and know immediately how water would ilarly steep and rapid progression. flow down it, and he would take the same line, deftly stepping out of the way of his slough, Raw energy.....endless energy. No body fat, just steel cables in ceaseless motion. Until a or juicing it and simply outrunning the cascading plume. deep low pressure and a big storm, at which point he could sleep for hours. In Antarctica, We’re talking about skiing 50-60 mph in extreme terrain.For those of us who often tried during a storm, he slept for 20 hours straight. following his tracks, where he was making perfect turns, we were hesitant, making twice as And I never saw him lose a chess match. Probably not something people knew him for, many turns and picking our way down. he was a brilliant chess player.And he ran his field operations at Valdez Heli-Ski Guides like But what really set him apart was his personality.Always laughing, always enthusiastic, a chess game, carefully placing all his pawns—us mere mortal guides—so that we never always upbeat and positive, he was utterly approachable whether you were a total novice or beat him to the best line of the day. If we ever did, he was just as enthusiastic about our a fellow pro. He loved skiing and he loved pushing himself, but he also loved seeing others accomplishment as he would have been if it were him on that perfect, fluted face. push themselves, acquire new skills, and improve. Doug had a way of communicating with “I think I’m getting rusty,” Doug told me once during an Exum Ski Mountaineering clients in clear, direct, uncomplicated instructions that would at once calm their fears and Camp. “I haven’t skied much for a while.” It was June 10th. get them to ski terrain beyond what they thought themselves capable of. His was a joyful, “Really?”I replied, wondering if the transition back from Europe, the moving, the visit- romping pursuit of perfection. ing family,etc.,had kept him his off his skis for a few weeks or even a month. “How long has

He never followed. Not anyone. Not Scott Schmidt. Not Dominique Perret. He led, you it been?” McKoy photos Wade followed; you tried to keep up, you rarely did. But you learned. The angulation, the pole “Five days.” He replied with a straight face. plant, the counter rotation, the power, the deft touch in variable snow. And in the bar, his Then he laughed. remarkable memory rehashed the day: this turn here, that turn there, that terrain feature. We all laughed. — Mark Newcomb, fellow guide. 30 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 summertime

Fireweed blooms in August, often creating cornstalk-like meadows. continued from page 28 having forgotten, say, your jacket. Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations only.We hang wildfire per- petrators ‘round here. Headlamp. Or at least a flashlight. The latest LED lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless. Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew. Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well marked, well worn. The Teton Village Sports is your source for everything outdoors from moment a trail looks specious, calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you disc golf, swimming, trekking, running, biking, hiking and a huge stopped paying attention. selection of men’s and women’s sportswear. Located at the gate- Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. (Please don’t go looking to way to Grand Teton National Park, stop by and get outfitted with actually use it.) Sun block. Lipschmeer. the things you need for your time in Jackson Hole. We also enjoy Miscellaneous. Sunglasses. Blister protection; if you feel a bit of rubbing winter all year long with skis, snowboards, boots, outerwear and within the first mile of your hike, a blister is imminent.One hundred feet of 1/4- accessories at savings of up to 60% off. inch parachute cord—I carry it all the time,use it once every three years.Heavy- duty plastic trash bags weigh nada, take no space, and separate dry things from TRAIL RUNNING moisture. Winter all Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-of-backcountry sentiments. Carry summer it but turn it off. In an emergency it probably won’t work. Scramble to a higher CRUISER BIKES spot, preferably a ridge with line-of-sight into the valley. Just don’t call because long someone’s tired. Expect to be invoiced for a rescue. SPORTSWEAR Watch out for: FOOTWEAR Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Mountaineering requires training in the use of this elegant and sharp stick, TREKKING which is often accessorized with shoe spikes, aka crampons. If you come across steep snow with no way to stick to it,turn around lest you DISC GOLF court an injury of all-too-common an origin. Life gone wild. Deer and elk usually have the common sense to bolt well before you see them. Moose and bison don’t have such a huge personal space. HIKING They’ll pretend to ignore you, sucking you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.”Once they decide you are a threat,you are too close for any retreat.Bison BIKING go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a free-form sculpture. Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on the best coping strategy; Jackson’s mountain I won’t pretend I have the last word on that. Best not to get in that predicament recreation specialists in the first place.Make noise as you amble.Bears are not shy about breaking and entering for food, either tents or cars. There’s no shortage of preventive tech- for 40 years. niques available courtesy of park rangers. And, finally, if you can manage to be attacked by a wolf, be prepared to 733-2181 • Open Daily become the star of a nationwide media feeding frenzy. www.tetonvillagesports.com David Swift lives the idyllic life in Jackson Hole, except when he’s working Crystal Springs Lodge in Teton Village as a photographer, writer, critic, or information-technology consultant.

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 31 Cruising Dirt

With the Teton Pass highway and as the Mountain bikers go deeper backdrop, rider Todd Johnson pedals up the ridge. by Jeff Ward he bicycle is the perfect extension of the human body. It allows us to efficiently carry Tourselves long distances, at high speeds, to places we would likely never otherwise see. Modern bikes’ high-tech suspension frames make mountain trails feel plush and their low, forgiving gears help us manage steep climbs. And biking’s high yahoo-factor often yields a feel-good endorphin buzz despite its cardiovascular demands.To top it off,a long bike ride provides the perfect guilt-free excuse to enjoy a big, calorie- packed meal. Combine all of this with Teton splendor, and you have the ingredients for a great vacation day.

WHERE TO GO If you’re staying in Jackson,you can leave your car at the hotel and bike directly to some of the area’s best mountain biking.For example,the greater Snow King trail system, known to locals as the “backyard trails” because of their close proximity to town, rivals the Photographers, clockwise from top right: Greg VonDoersten, Wade McKoy, Tuck Fauntleroy Tuck McKoy, Wade Photographers, clockwise from top right: Greg VonDoersten, nation’s top mountain bike experiences. Chris Peck, Brian Close rolls through fall aspens on the Putt Putt trail in Cache Creek. the area’s first full-time program director, recom- mends starting at the Cache Creek trailhead, where a turn-off. But if you’d like to ride what Peck has from the punishing ski area service road which passel of rides begin. The trailhead’s kiosk displays a dubbed a “splendid single-track,” two other scenic switchbacks up the steep slope. map of the area and stocks a hefty supply of free trail options roughly parallel the double-track road—the Another Koehler-designed trail is in the planning maps. Take some time to get familiar with Snow Hagen Trail to the south and the recently improved stages and would link the Leeks Canyon trail, which King’s routes, and you’ll soon be able to combine and expanded Putt-Putt Trail to the north. hits closed private land a mere 1/8 mile before inter- many of the shorter rides into a long one. Last summer the new Ferrin’s Trail gave riders an secting Highway 191 south of Jackson, to the Sink or One “backyard” classic, for example—Cache exciting option for climbing Snow King Mountain Swim trail on the northwest side of Snow King. Creek-to-Game Creek—features a 25-mile loop and a and linking with trails on its south side. The single- Directions to three other trailhead-kiosks are host of variations. The traditional route follows the track trail, designed specifically for bicycle use by available at Cache Creek itself or from bike shops creek up an old double-track road to the Game Creek Jack Koehler and Chris Peck, is a pleasant change around town. 32 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 On the other side of the valley, at Teton Village, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort continues to develop its bike/hike trail system. A free map details 15 winding single-track trails and helps keep riders on route at the trails’many junctions. Teewinot Chair Lift carries cyclists and bikes up its short climb, pro- viding novice riders access to one of the easier trails. But if it’s a long, steady climb you crave, Teton Village claims the ultimate ride. Its seven-mile, two- track road gains 4,139 vertical feet of elevation and ends at the aerial tram summit station. Because downhill riding is prohibited above the bottom of Thunder Chair Lift, cyclists must then ride the tram down (at no charge). For downhillers, though, a new and exciting chapter is being played out on Teton Pass, where for the first time the Forest Service has designated a one- way downhill trail.Lithium easily justifies having ten inches of suspension travel. Big jumps, high speed, and challenging berms make Lithium the real-deal for downhillers who measure a good time by how much adrenaline they release. Although most of the jumps have a way around them, downhiller and trail builder Harlan Hottenstein of Wilson Backcountry Sports deems the route “expert-only” because of its many steep sections. Regional trails are generally two-way and multi- ple-use. But, as Rob Sgroi, Bridger-Teton Forest Service trail supervisor, explained,“Downhill moun- tain biking is not compatible with other users.”Sgroi said that he is working with Teton Village to develop lift-access mountain biking, and that an extensive trail system has been approved. “The Village is responsible for building within their permit area,” Sgroi noted,addressing the hopes of avid downhillers longing for more runs. Many ski resorts have devel- oped lift-accessed, downhill-only bike trails, but Jackson Hole Resort isn’t pursuing that market—yet. One good way to find a suitable outing is to browse local guide books,pick out a handful of rides, then visit a bike shop for advice on those rides. Every shop employs trail-riding experts who are ready and willing to help.My favorite book is The Book,Guide to Mountain Biking in the Jackson Hole Area. WHAT TO BRING Even experts can’t agree on exactly what to bring on a mountain bike ride. One school of thought says that if you arrive at a ride’s end with water or food remaining, you’ve brought too much. Another school advocates bringing enough food for a small picnic and enough tools to open up a trailside bike shop. I think you want to fall somewhere in the middle. Moving swiftly and unencumbered by heavy gear is what makes mountain biking so much fun. But becoming dehydrated or hungry, or not having the simple tools to fix a flat tire, clearly means you’re traveling too light. On a typical ride,one lasting four hours or less on Maria Hayashida cruises the Game Creek single-track on a perfect summer day. a summer day when the weather looks at least fairly hydration, I calculate needing 16 ounces of energy tool is the only other thing I pack. It gives me what I reliable, I try to fit everything I need—food, tools, replacement drink for every hour of riding. need to fix a broken chain,adjust brakes and drive and extra clothing—into the three pockets of my Remember this simple rule: drink before you feel train, or true a wheel. If something major breaks bike jersey. For food I pack one energy bar for every thirsty, and eat before you feel hungry. down, I embrace the inherent risks of mountain bik- hour of riding and one energy gel for every half-hour As for tools, I try to keep it simple. You should ing and start walking. For clothing I check the fore- of riding. Energy gels and bars may lack gourmet count on getting a flat, and therefore carry a spare cast: if it looks like it might get cold or rain, I ride the splendor, but they’re compact and full of fuel. For tube,patch kit,tire levers,and a pump.A good multi- backyard trails. And if I’m continued page 35 www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 33 The Pathways of Jackson Hole A recreation and transportation alternative

Wade McKoy reporting

ackson Hole’s pathway system began in 1992 with big goals and a modest first phase: four miles of Jasphalt, 10-feet wide, connecting the Jackson Hole High School area with its neighborhoods. Now, 14 years later, the system has grown to 26 miles and includes a route connecting Wilson with Teton Village. What’s more, the system’s 25-year master plan calls for 57 miles of pathways further connecting Jackson Hole communities. Notably, Grand Teton National Park wants to include pathways in its new transportation plan to be announced later this year. To better understand pathway usage and needs, Friends of Pathways and Jackson Hole Community Pathways sponsored a user survey conducted last summer. The resulting 52-page document prepared by civil engineer Jeffrey LaMondia details many aspects of pathway use and identifies their value: Shared-use paths are a relatively new trans- portation facility that is emerging with great inter- est across the United States. These facilities not only serve as a recreational area, but also act as transportation routes for communities. They give Photo: Greg VonDoersten all different modes, including walkers, runners, The Wyoming Press Association, Friends of by the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance. cyclists, skaters, and horseback riders, access Pathways, and the Jackson Hole News & Guide •More than 77% of the total public com- to travel corridors. Researchers have shown ments received call for a more complete transit shared-use paths can improve the environment, appealed the decision under the Freedom of Information Act. system than proposed and 47 miles of separat- enrich the vitality of an area, and increase the ed pathways (Improved Alternative #4). health of a community. The appeal was eventually granted,and a study of •Slightly more than 3% of responses the comments revealed that over 90% of respondents Early last summer, Grand Teton National Park express opposition to the proposed placement who identified a specific alternative favored at least of pathways in the park. revealed a long-awaited set of transportation-plan 41 miles of pathways. The official GTNP summary The public comment period on the Grand alternatives, including roadway-shoulder improve- did not publish that fact. Teton Transportation Plan Draft EIS ended ments, separated multi-use pathways, traveler The National Parks Conservation Association August 25, 2005. After the Wyoming Press information systems, and a limited pilot transit released the following: Association, Jackson Hole News & Guide and program. Pathway inclusion ranged from none in Friends of Pathways’ efforts on the public’s Alternative 1, to 41 miles in Alternative 4. The park The National Parks Conservation behalf to make these important comments endorsed Alternative 3, which includes 23 pathway Association (NPCA) recently released an inde- accessible to all, NPCA submitted the full pendently contracted quantitative analysis of miles, and collected public comments on the plan record to an independent professional analyst, public comments received on the Grand Teton Theodore Hughes, who for several years was during the summer. Transportation Plan Draft Environmental Impact part of the government team charged with cre- Most critics agreed that the park’s plan did not Statement (EIS), which shows nearly unani- ating reports on public comment records for adequately address mass transit, but the debate mous public support for increased pathways EISs just like this one. He also worked from over pathways quickly grew contentious. To the dis- and an improved transit schedule in Grand 2000 to 2003 as a member of the U.S. Forest may and disbelief of local cyclists and others, sev- Teton National Park. Service’s Content Analysis Team (CAT). CAT eral conservation groups and some individuals pro- The summary of analysis reveals, “by all analyzed public comments on land manage- moted zero or few pathways. Pathways critics cited measures and categories, there is overwhelm- ment plans for federal decision-makers, ing support for the establishment of a park path- wildlife disturbance, tree loss, and degradation of including the Bureau of Land Management, the ways and transit system,” and a few of the key Forest Service, and the National Park Service. the motorized sightseeing experience as potential findings include: Hughes studied the more than 2,600 public harmful results. Pro-pathways groups, including •Among those submitting either form letters comments submitted and placed them into the Teton County Commissioners, Jackson’s mayor, or unique letters and favoring a specific plan summary categories by response and interest. and the local chamber of commerce, supported alternative, 92% want to see 41 miles or more Grand Teton National Park should be com- either Alternative 4 or a privately created plan of separated pathways established in the park. mended for creating a thought-provoking docu- called Improved Alternative 4, which maps out 47 •Among those submitting unique letters ment that has generated an energetic public pathway miles. alone, more than 80% indicate they would like response, as analysis of the public comments to see 41 miles or more of separated pathways. After a public-comment period ended, the park demonstrates. •A little over 1% of all submitted responses released an internally prepared summary of those favor alternative #3—the Preferred alternative Later this year the park will release its decision on comments. But when various groups asked for the in the Draft EIS. adopting a transportation plan. Many community complete file of comments so that they could draw •Slightly more than 3% indicate they favor leaders and residents hope the park will join in the their own conclusions, GTNP denied the requests. the “True Transportation Alternative”—proposed community’s vision for interconnecting pathways. 34 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 continued from page 33 tackling a trail for the known well in advance. BehindBehind thethe BrewBrew PubPub •• 307-734-6886307-734-6886 first time, I leave early enough in the day to allow for 5. Never spook animals—Give animals extra www.fitzgeraldsbicycles.com what might turn into a bushwack, one possibly room and time to adjust to you. When passing hors- www.fitzgeraldsbicycles.com aggravated by dehydration or hunger—or both! The es, use special care and follow directions from the only extra clothing I haul during summer is an ultra- horseback riders. Leave gates as you find them or as light windbreaker made for cycling. marked. TRAIL AND BIKING ETHICS 6.Plan ahead—Know your equipment,your abil- There’s one other consideration when biking ity,and the area in which you are riding.Always wear a helmet and appropriate safety gear. trails in Jackson Hole—or anywhere else: trail eti- Rentals quette. Hikers and horseback riders preceded moun- Jeff Ward is a semi-serious mountain bike, road New Bikes tain bikers on these paths by many years. Trail eti- bike, and BMX racer sponsored by Hoback Sports. Repairs quette demands that mountain bikers always yield to He has completed a number of ultra-distance events, Info walkers and horses. Cyclists should stop and get off including the 203-mile road race from Logan, Utah, Advice the path.Avoid spooking horses by giving them an to Jackson, and Minnesota’s four-day Border to Bike Culture especially wide berth.Behaving like a guest on the Border Triathlon. Jeff is also a carpenter, and aspir- trail and respecting others will ensure that trails stay ing freelance writer. open to us. The official trail and biking ethics are outlined by miing the International Mountain Bicycling Association e,, Wyo n Holle (IMBA), whose philosophy is,“Long live long rides.” N 307.733.0043 Jackso IMBA’s guidelines are: che -  S.. Cac 1. Ride on open trails only—Respect road and 645 trail closures. Wilderness and National Parks are Neighborhood W closed to cycling.  E 2. Leave no trace —Ride under conditions where Pub & Grille you will leave no evidence of your passing and prac-  At the base of tice low-impact biking. Snow King Mountain 3. Control your bicycle —Obey all bicycle speed  Fine Whiskeys regulations and recommendations.  17 Draft Beers 4. Always yield the trail—Show respect to others  when passing,anticipate other trail users around cor- Choice Steaks, Fresh Seafood, ners, don’t startle others, and make your approach Fish & Chips, Burgers

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www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 35 LET’SLET’S RODEO!RODEO! Come see the show BY JANET MONTGOMERY Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall

Rodeo is first of all a contest — “Anything that involves horses is kind of like my Jackson rodeo,though,adds its own special touch a challenge to cowboy skills and endurance. But it’s bag,”she said. to the regular events. Youngsters there partake in also a show—with loud music, flashy costumes, and Even though horse-and-rider events seem to be her the catch-a-calf challenge. The arena is packed painted clowns. And for many Wyomingites and favorite, Early judged bull riding to be the best event. with tykes who charge at a little calf with a ribbon Westerners, it’s a social gathering to boot. “I just don’t know how these little bitty guys can on its tail. The first munchkin to snatch that color- Rodeo fan Sheri Nolan has been attending the have the strength to stay on one of those big, power- ful tie wins. “show”for most of her life, and she loves it. ful bulls,”she said. “It just amazes me. I’ve ridden a Cowboys at the JH Rodeo compete from Memorial “It’s the atmosphere,”Sheri said.“It’s just the peo- few bucking horses, and it takes all of your strength Day through Labor Day. Cash prizes and buckles, as ple who go…all the horse trailers and cars backed to stay on—and your balance.” well as the end-of-season saddle, are awarded to the up to the fence.” Although she hasn’t participated in the sport of top rider in each of three categories: rough stock, Never a participant and always a spectator, Sheri barrel racing or pole bending for nearly a decade, timed events, and ladies’ all-around. Early proudly pointed out that she never missed a rodeo during her 31 years of compet- ing.These days she trav- els to Cheyenne for Frontier Days, to Idaho for War Bonnet Days, and to her hometown, Pinedale, where she attends the Rendezvous Rodeo. Little wonder, grew up going to the cowboy competitions in then, that she declared, Oklahoma. “Rodeoing is a fever.” “It was something that families did,”Sheri recalled. That “fever” and its “You could always run into other family members. temperatures are sure to You know about everybody there, so you can wander rise again this season in around and visit. It’s a social event.” western Wyoming, Rodeoer Bill Gransden agreed that rodeos are a thanks in part to the social event,as well as a great place to meet new peo- nightly exhibitions in ple. Grandsen has been going to or participating in Cody and the two-nights the contests for 29 years. He especially loves the a week of rodeo in Jackson Hole Rodeo, where he competes in the team Jackson. roping events. “Where the pavement The rough stock events are usually the crowd ends and the West pleasers, Grandsen admitted, but roping is his begins”is bellowed from favorite event. the crow’s nest of the “I enjoy the roping more, just the pure fun of Jackson Hole Rodeo watching the animals work and perform to their Arena each Wednesday ability,”he said. and Saturday night at 8 Once a participant but now a spectator, Julie Early p.m., as the rousing agreed that she too enjoys watching the horse and rounds of rider and live- rider work as well. stock contests begin.

Clockwise from top: Cowboys work as a team in the calf-roping event. A rodeo queen starts the show with a patriotic display of horseman- ship. A bucking bronc and its rider explode from the chute. Kids from the audience chase a calf to snatch the ribbon from its tail in the kid’s calf scramble.

36 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 But a rodeo is little more slide, a mini-mechanical than good dirt watched over bull, and swings will help by fired-up spectators and round out the offerings for Howdy Pardner cowpokes without the most young rodeo fans. important element: stock. So Of course,Tate realizes that folks like Maury Tate have to rodeo begins at home.“What step up to the plate, or the gate I’m looking forward to the if you will. most is letting my little girls Y ou're This summer Tate will host be in the rodeo every night R in odeo his third Wyoming season and be a part of the Western Co untry with the Cody Nite Rodeo. But lifestyle,”he said. shaping the show isn’t new business for Tate, who has A slew of events is slated for kids in the Cody fes- produced roping, bull riding, high school, and other tivities.Some of the fare includes a calf scramble,the rodeo events in his home state of Oklahoma. Kowboy Kal-famous trick rope demonstration,photo RODEO He was part of the Professional Rodeo Association ops with real livestock, rodeo-clown face painting, Circuit for many years as a bull rider and a roper, and taking a spin in a real clown barrel. In Jackson Hole where he was among the best with a lariat. The Cody Nite Rodeo runs every evening from June Wednesdays & Saturdays In 2002, Tate purchased a few heifers and began 1 to Aug.31,at 8 p.m.,in Cody,Wyoming,“The Rodeo breeding to produce some of the top bucking bulls in Capital of the World!” at 8:00pm the business through his “Mo” Betta Bull Company. “Our thinking is, when people come to that Nite JH Rodeo Grounds • Snow King Ave. Wyoming cowboys will get an opportunity to ride rodeo, they want to have a good time. So the more FREE PARKING some of these “Mo” Betta bulls when they make the ways we can entertain them, the better it will be for 4 blocks from the Town Square trip to Cody for its Nite Rodeo. them,”Tate concluded. “For family, if it’s done right, Jackson Hole, Wyoming Tate said that the Cody rodeo, with its nightly con- there is no better form of clean, family fun than CALF SCRAMBLE tests, offers a unique set of challenges. But Cody is rodeo.” All kids ages 4-12 just the town to pull it off. Check these web sites for more information on FAMILY DISCOUNTS “I’ve never seen a town as passionate about rodeo rodeo: www.jhrodeo.com and www.codystam- $35.00 as the people in Cody are. Everybody you talk to, at pederodeo.com. some point or another,has worked or been a part of 4th of July Rodeo at 8:00pm the Cody Nite Rodeo,”he said. Janet Montgomery works as a designer, photogra- www.jhrodeo.com In taking on the Cody Nite Rodeo, Tate will weave pher, and freelance writer and lives in Sublette County with her husband and two daughters. Ticket Office 733-2805 his love for kids into the festivities.He revealed that a For advance tickets and information. The Road to The Rodeo Summer is rodeo season in the West, and there’s no lack of action to be had. Here’s where to find an event near you. Cody, Wyoming: Cody Nite Rodeo Gardiner, Montana: NRA Rodeo June, July, August, nightly at 8:00 –June 16 & 17 at 6:00 Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 Big Timber, Montana: June 24 at 6:00 Jackson, Wyoming: JH Rodeo Wilsall, Montana: June 10 at 6:30 p.m. & Memorial Day through Labor Day, every June 11 at 2:00 & the Wilsall Ranch Rodeo on Wednesday & Saturday at 8 :00 & July 4 Aug 20. (30 miles north of Livingston, at 8:00 Montana, on US Hwy 89). Dubois, Wyoming: Every Friday Red Lodge, Montana: Home of June 9–Sept. 8 at 7 :00 Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6:00. & July 4 at 3:00 West Yellowstone, Montana: Every weekend, June Livingston, Montana: Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, 16–August 19 at 8:00 & 4 at 8:00 Pinedale, Wyoming: During the Green River Big Piney, Wyoming: July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 2:00 Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Saturday, July 6-8 at 7:00 Meeteetse, Wyoming: Labor Day, September 4 at Triangle C Ranch: Ranch Rodeo–Friday evenings at 1:00 7:30 (20 miles west of Dubois or 70 miles NE of Jackson, on US Hwy 26) Call the towns’ chambers of commerce for more info. THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities JACUZZI SUITES OUTDOOR HEATED POOL OUTDOOR HOT TUB COLOR CABLE TV • RV PARK 800-262-4999 307-733-2792 www.virginianlodge.com ★ A Taste of the Old West ★

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 37 ody CWYOMING82414 by Pony Smith For many people whose vacations bring them to FWyoming, their first glimpse of Cody is nothing more than a small dot on a map, situated amid the Rocky Mountains about fifty miles from the East Gate of Cody Firearms Museum, another key Yellowstone National Park. Their first section of the BBHC,is heralded as one impressions of Cody often fall into one of the world’s largest firearm collec- of two categories: either Cody offers a tions and also traces the development briefrespite before continuing on to of the frontier. Yellowstone or Cody is just a short The latest addition to the BBHC, sojourn after finishing a tour through The Draper Museum of Natural America’s first national park. History, includes exhibits on ancient Upon entering Cody,however,a vis- animals, local history, and the geologi- itor’s opinions tend to change as fast as cal processes that shaped the area Wyoming’s unpredictable spring around Cody and Yellowstone. weather. The town often leaves the The BBHC is not the only piece of traveler with a lasting impression not history in Cody, though. In fact, the only of what the West was, but of what entire town of Cody can be considered it continues to be—a permanent a museum. Several buildings in the reminder of this great state’s history in downtown area are original historic the long and colorful story of America. structures dating back to the years The keeper of that history is the immediately following Cody’s found- most visited and renowned attraction ing. The Irma Hotel, included in the in Cody, the Buffalo Bill Historical National Register of Historic Places, Center (BBHC), arguably Wyoming’s was built by Buffalo Bill himself just best-known museum. The museums seven years after the town’s founding within the historical center present a in 1895. Even now, its historic atmos- look at the West through different phere lives on in authentic pieces of aspects of history. One portion of the Western lore enhancing its rooms and BBHC is dedicated to Col. William through actors staging mock gunfights (Buffalo Bill) F.Cody, who founded the in front of the hotel’s steps. town and whose name and legacy still Equally impressive is nearby Old color the area. Another BBHC section, Trail Town, a re-creation of an 1890s’ The Plains Indian Museum, exhibits Western main street. Standing like an the lives and culture of the American excerpt from a frontier diary on the Indians. Similarly, the BBHC’s Whitney west end of Cody,Old Trail Town is a Gallery is a collection of art that collection of horse-drawn wagons, depicts life on the Western frontier.The antiques, and almost 30 authentic his-

38 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 toric buildings, all gathered from the Fourth of July are in for a gripping around the state and relocated to the display of unrivaled patriotism. The Old Trail Town. cowboy spirit thrives in the people of And less than a mile farther west, Cody.That spirit,infused as it is with a the old mingles with the new as mod- fierce patriotism, combines with the ern cowboys compete in the Cody Nite Fourth of July celebrations like flame Rodeo (see page 36), showcasing the and fuel, and the result is truly some- skills that their predecessors relied thing to behold. Wyoming and upon so heavily when settling this land. American flags hang from every street In the true pole and flutter in spirit of the fron- the wind on car tier and the antennas. Uncle exploration that Sam walks the brought people hot July pave- to Wyoming in its ment on stilts, early days, varied and cranes down festivities take to shake the place in Cody hands of throughout the awestruck chil- summer months. dren. People pack Like pioneers of the sidewalks and all shapes and sizes, they bustle into storefronts in search of vantage points Cody, bringing their own unique sto- to watch the parades.Horses and riders ries and entertainment only to disap- gallop around the rodeo arena with -OSTCITYPARKSHAVEWADINGPOOLS pear after a brief stay, as if to continue flags trailing behind like the wind’s hair #ODY 7YOMINGHASAPARKWITH their journeys. Art exhibits, auctions, itself. And evening fireworks explode, RIVERS LAKESANDGEYSERS!STHE gun shows, even bands, all of these reverberating off the nearby mountains EASTERNGATEWAYTO9ELLOWSTONE '%%+86A:C96G arrive in Cody throughout the summer. and fading into a tapestry of stars that .ATIONAL0ARK WEENJOYNATURAL D;:K:CIH Perennial favorites include the shines through the clear mountain air ADVANTAGESSUCHASSPECTACULAR B6N Yellowstone Jazz Festival (mid-July), in everlasting celebration. SCENERYANDWILDLIFE "UTYOULLALSO  0OWELL s -AYFEST#ELEBRATION the Wild West [hot air] Balloon Fest When visitors leave Cody, heading   #ODY s #ODY7ILD7EST$AYS FINDHISTORYIN#ODYS"UFFALO"ILL (first week in August) and the annual home or perhaps on to Yellowstone, ?JC: (ISTORICAL#ENTER 4ROLLEY4OURSAND  #ODY s #ODY.ITE2ODEOBEGINS visit of the Montana Shakespearean most will remember it as more than a   #ODY s "UFFALO"ILLS3UMMER2ANGE GALLERIES ASWELLASAREAMUSEUMS  #ODY s TH !NNUAL#ANCER&UN2UN Troupe, which performs two different dot on a map,more than just a resting   2ALSTON s 2ALSTON2ENDEZVOUS -ULE$AYS Shakespeare plays every year. point. They’ll see Cody as a piece of   #ODY sST !NNUAL7INCHESTER There is, however, one Cody event living history, a symbol of the West, a !RMS3HOW   #ODY sTH !NNUAL0LAINS that far overshadows any of the others: haven in a land of incomparable )NDIAN0OWWOW  #ODY sTH !NNUAL/RIGINAL July Fourth. True, America’s beauty. /LD7EST!UCTION Independence Day is celebrated all over   #ODY sTH !NNUAL/LD7EST3HOW Pony Smith is a lifelong resident !UCTION the country in major cities and farm  0OWELL s 4REASURESOFTHE(EARTLAND towns alike. However, those lucky of the Cody and Wapiti, Wyoming,   #ODY s !NTIQUE!RMS3HOW region. ?JAN enough to find themselves in Cody on   #ODY sTH !NNUAL#ODY 3TAMPEDE2ODEO  #ODY s 2UNNERS3TAMPEDE   #ODY s 9ELLOWSTONE*AZZ&ESTIVAL  0OWELL s 0ARK#OUNTY&AIRBEGINS  #ODY s 3UMMER4RIATHLON 6J

Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall country surrounding Cody.

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 39 Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Wyoming’s grandeur, its peaks and plains, its of all ages are inspired by the story of this courageous Harry Jackson and James Bama. Wwaters and wonders, its people and its panoramas scout, who achieved fame throughout the world as a Rounding out the Buffalo Bill Historical Center’s beckon millions of visitors every year. Very few showman and helped forge a civilization on the bar- perspective, the Cody Firearms Museum reveals indoor destinations would dare compete with the ren plains. insights into the impact of the firearm on history.The vastness that is Wyoming and the West,culturally and The timeless beat of the Indian powwow and the fine art of engraved firearms and revolutionary physically. But one institution, one edifice, one place powerful recitation of stories handed down through advancements in engineering are among the surpris- has managed to house a host of richness arguably the ages are among the audio experiences awaiting ing elements of the story behind the world’s largest every bit as worthy of a visit as visitors to the Plains Indian and most important collection of American arms, as anything the state has to offer: ...this world-class Museum. The use of audio-visual well as European arms dating to the 16th century. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center. exhibits in combination with one of In addition to its five museums under one roof, Set in historic Cody, institution was the nation’s largest collections of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center hosts the Wyoming, the Buffalo Bill proclaimed by the Native American art and artifacts McCracken Research Library. This library and Historical Center (BBHC) invites has created what Crow elder and his- archives specialize in Buffalo Bill’s Wild West, visitors to embark on a virtual late James Michener torian Joe Medicine Crow called a Western art and artists, Plains Indian history and expedition through the American “living, breathing place.” culture, firearms history and technology, the natural West. With over 300,000 square as “The Smithsonian Few Americans haven’t heard of history of the Greater Yellowstone area, the history of feet of floor space on three levels, of the West.” Custer’s Last Stand—or the Battle of Yellowstone Park, Western folk music, and Cody area the center presents a breathtaking the Little Bighorn,as it has also been history. view of the West with an entire museum dedicated to called.Many Americans,though,don’t realize that the On May 13, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center each of five themes: the natural wonders of the epic confrontation is also known as the Battle of opened “Forging an American Identity: The Art of Yellowstone region, the legend of Buffalo Bill Cody, Greasy Grass and as Custer’s Battle. The Whitney William Ranney.”It may be entirely possible that folks the living culture of the Plains Indian, the fine art of Gallery of Western Art, reflecting in the West have never Western masters,and the marvelous story of the evo- those differing titles and perspec- heard of William lution of the firearm. No wonder this world-class tives, now houses an exhibit enti- Ranney,but clearly that’s institution was proclaimed by the late James tled “The Battle of Many Names: about to change. Michener as “The Smithsonian of the West.” June 25-26,1876.”This collection, Painting in the mid The center’s newest wing, the Draper Museum of though, steers clear of judging 1800s, Ranney’s subjects Natural History, portrays the natural world as it which interpretation of Custer’s represent the diversity of appeared to early inhabitants and explorers. Trailing fall is correct. Instead it seeks to early America—from a down the circular walkway, visitors are transported “introduce ways in which it was revolutionary war hero from the alpine tundra to the grassy plains, their seen and preserved for remem- to a family headed West journey accompanied by the far-off cry of wolves, the brance” by displaying depictions toward a new life, and crackle of a forest fire, or a gust of wind whisking through the eyes of various from the festivity of a through the pine trees.Along the way, one develops a artists. Virginia wedding to the keen understanding of how humans interact with The gallery also offers visions profound grief of bury- their environment, especially in the Greater of the American West through the ing one’s child on the Ye l l owston e E cosyste m . eyes of its master painters and prairie. “Many of The first natural history museum of the 21st cen- sculptors. Landscapes by Albert Ranney’s western works tury, the Draper employs high-tech and interactive Bierstadt and Thomas Moran focus on the unnamed audio and visual display panels, as well as open share space with paintings of the figures of history, thus spaces for hands-on entertainment and education for classic West by Frederic asserting the importance the whole family. Remington, Charles M. Russell, N.C. Wyeth and of the average person in developing the nation and its Understanding the Western environment sets the W.H.D.Koerner.The H.Peter and Jeannette Kriendler identity” explained Dr. Sarah E. Boehme, the John S. stage in the Buffalo Bill Museum for a fascinating Gallery of Contemporary Western Art displays a stun- Bugas Curator of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art look at the life and times of Buffalo Bill Cody.Visitors ning collection of modern art, including works by at the BBHC. “Ranney’s paintings convey important

40 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 concepts about American character through his dra- matic visualizations.” In addition to the 25th annual Plains Indian Museum Powwow held at the museum on June 17 and 18 for 2006, one other special exhibition is in place this year: “A Place Called Thorofare: People, Wilderness & Wildlife Management.” Last year marked the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the Thorofare Cabin, the center of the Wyoming Game and Fish Department’s backcountry outpost lying in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem—the most remote spot in the lower 48 states.Through historical and contemporary photog- raphy, the exhibition explores the spectacular Thorofare region, the cabin and its builders, and those who have used the outpost to help conserve wildlands and wildlife in this unique place. Since 1955, the outpost has been used for landmark wildlife research, monitoring, and management of photo courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center grizzly, elk, wolf, and numerous other species. Learn how it will be used to deal with more wildlife chal- lenges and opportunities in the 21st century. Visitors may purchase reproductions of fine Western art, jewelry, and Native American art at the Historical Center’s museum store, Museum Selections. The Mustang Grill and Pony Express-O offer meals and beverages for visitors seeking suste- nance or just a moment and place to relax in. Admission is good for two consecutive days and includes entry to all five museums. For more infor- mation call 307-587-4771 or visit www.bbhc.org. —Buffalo Bill Historical Center

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www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 41 JWYOMINGackson83001 by Cal Glover Oh, just go get lost, will ya? OYeah, pardner, come with me. Let’s get lost for awhile together, go back a few years. To a Jackson’s Hole of years gone by.In fact,let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jackson Hole became a town. Four locals contributed to deed a piece of land, and it’s been Paragliders often launch from the top of Snow King Mountain and ride the breeze with a Teton view. Here, Matt Combs rides the ridge lift from his launch on Beaver Mountain in Hoback Canyon. known as “The Square” ever since. So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink from the Throughout the summer, six evenings a week, door on the east side.Hollywood took that door away fountain in the center of the Square and gaze up at the there’s an old-fashioned Western shootout on the in 1980, hinged a fake one on so Clint Eastwood and Bud Boller bronze of the cowboy on the buckin’ southeast corner. In fact, this is the 50th anniversary Will Smith (not that Will Smith) could come crashing bronc. Look familiar? That same rendition’s on our year for this,the longest-running Western shootout in out in the big fight scene of Any Which Way You Can. Wyoming license plates, and eventually might be on the country. It starts at 6:15 p.m., but get there early (OK, watch closely—they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 the Wyoming quarter if Congress gets around to it. feature films have been shot here in Jackson Hole. The steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steamboat. William Sublette, of moun- So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of mountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8- Notice the cowboy “fanning” with his hat. They won’t tain-man fame, named this 40- let cowboys do that anymore, as it might induce a to-15-mile-wide valley after his partner, Davey bucking bronc to turn in a desired direction. Say, mile-long by 8-to-15-mile- Jackson, while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,”in these towards a judge who’s actually eyeballing the rider parts back in the early 1800s. instead of cowgirls. wide valley after his partner, A quick trip back to the present. That big build- ing about a couple hundred yards to the north? That’s The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, Davey Jackson, while trappin’ Wyoming’s state tree.But look around at the four antler our rec. center.Visitors from out of town can use it. It arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poor beaver, or “soft gold,” in these has athletic courts, a lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, deer”to death. The elk antlers are shed every year, and sauna, steam room, and the coolest three-story water many were fed into the arches from 1953-1969. Every parts back in the early 1800s. slide for kids of all ages. year, on the Saturday before Memorial Day, the east Back to the Square with ya.Wander through some side of the Square is the site of our annual elk antler and find a good place to stand. We hear they use of our art galleries,view glimpses of our Western her- auction.Last year 7,319 pounds went for an average of blanks,although the local cemetery is in a pretty spot itage captured in paintings, sculptures, and photos. $10.42 a pound. Elk antler artists will take ‘em back in case they foul up. Now,it’s free to look,but you might notice they do not home and carve belt buckles, bolo ties, and make From the northeast corner stroll down Deloney give these things away. chandeliers and furniture out of those “horns.” Street a hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, the Have some fun. Find a local, ask,“Can you direct

Early stagecoach riders no doubt gasped in wonder (and relief) upon entering Jackson Hole. Riders today appreciate both the convenience and the comfort of paved streets.

42 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 me to George Washington Memorial Park?” Chances ‘the second toughest town in the United States after are you’ll get a blank stare. Most locals don’t know it, Butte, Montana.’” but that is the Square. Stand across from the Cowboy Walk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy BASECAMP Bar. Look at the plaque bearing John Colter’s name. Steakhouse beneath the bar.Black and white pictures (JACKSON STYLE)) You’ve probably come to our valley because you like will take you back to years gone by. And check out the great outdoors. Do you like it enough to do what those spurs. In the early years of dude ranching, the John Colter did? He left the Lewis and Clark rodeos were the big social events of the summer, Expedition to be the first white man to venture into occurring on July Fourth, the first three days of our valley. Starting from the Missouri River, Private August, and Labor Day Weekend. These days they take place Wednesday and Saturday nights through- out summer. The funniest thing you’ve seen in a long while will be the kids chasing the calf or the goat, grabbing for the elusive ribbon on its tail. The rodeo hasn’t changed much since dude ranching picked up in the Twenties and Thirties. Let’s stay lost for a bit longer, whaddya say? Let’s mosey north.Those old brown buildings are original. Davies Reid was Jackson Drug for many a year, fea- tured homemade ice cream. Walk past it, toward the Teton Theater, opened in 1941. Just think back and WWW.TETONLODGE.COM imagine a Saturday summer day in 1953, how the town folk looked as they lined up to see the famous Western, Shane, also filmed in our valley. That’s the Anvil Motel across the street, on the corner. Let’s say that in 1917 you drove your buck- board wagon from your ranch to town to get supplies. The Anvil was where Pop Deloney’s General Store stood.Your supplies came to more than you had, and Pop wasn’t around. Why, you’d just leave a note and settle up next time you came to town. That’s the way it was done. (Now don’t do what Bill Webb,owner ofGreen River Outfitters, swears is a true story.These two gals were on the phone with Bill, asking what they should The close proximity of Cache Creek to bring. Ol’ Bill said,“Nuthin’ really...just your staples.” downtown Jackson gives all types of recre- They showed up with, you got it, a box of staples!) ationists easy access to forests, mountains, Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the and streams. old days of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. Colter traveled 500 miles, by himself in the late fall of Turn around and head back south,toward Snow 1807. He was the first white man to see the geysers of King. That ski area opened in 1939. In late July we’ll Yellowstone.Hard to say how he felt about them,since have a running race to the top of Snow King, starting the earliest map depicts Yellowstone as “Colter’s Hell.” from the Square. Think you could you beat Tom Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’our Borschel’s 2001 record of 22:58? We’ll let you ski for long winters? Well,we have skiing and snowboarding, free if you can do it! snowmobiling and dog-sledding, but ya’ll might be Walk past the Cowboy,take a right.Have dinner at interested in knowing that we set a record in January or take a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room of 1979, when it got to 63 degrees. Ah, shoot, I done in the Wort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments cap- forgot to add that little “–”thingy before the number. tured in black-and-white pictures around the That makes it, um, 95 degrees…below freezing! Western-themed room. Built in 1941, The Wort Oh, all right, just one from our ol’ pal Jeff almost burned down in 1980 as shown in the pictures Foxworthy: “If you consider it a sport to gather your and news clips adorning the hallway’s walls. Valley food by drilling through 18 inches of ice and sitting firemen, though, saved the wooden bar laden with its there all day hoping that the food will swim by, you 2,032 silver dollars. might live in Wyoming.” In fact, you might just head in there. Walking If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy through near 90 years of history, why you just migh- Bar, which has been a landmark in our town since ta’worked up a thirst.Or you might wanna grab a bite 1936. No bar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles. and stay lost for awhile longer. Now in the old days, up until the late Fifties, these Come back when you’re ready,will ya? watering holes were also called “The Joints.” There was gambling. According to dude rancher Jack Cal Glover runs tours of Yellowstone and Grand Huyler, in his book And That’s the Way It Was In Teton Parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company, at (307) 413-5483. Cal has written three locally set Jackson’s Hole,“Whenever there was a civic project in novels, including A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone;he need of funds, we’d go to the ‘joints’ for help; and we’d

Photographers: Andrew McGarry (paraglider), Wade McKoy (biker), Bob Woodall (stagecoach) McKoy (biker), Bob Woodall Andrew McGarry (paraglider), Wade Photographers: also writes a biweekly column in the newspaper get it. That changed when riff-raff from Vegas moved Planet Jackson Hole. in. Jackson was written up in Fortune magazine as DESTINATIONHOTELS.COM

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 43 SnowKingResort

The summit of Snow King Mountain boasts one of the valley’s most breathtaking views of the .

by Samantha Worthington

Nature, the town’s only real on bike.But hikers will need anywhere from 45 to Ncompetition, is just minutes from 90 minutes depending on fitness and acclimatiza- tion. Scenic views are guaranteed either way, and downtown Jackson. The summit the weary traveler can simply hop the lift back of Snow King Mountain, dazzlingly cloaked in down the hill. wildflowers, boasts one of the valley’s most breath- For those seeking an additional thrill, the taking views of the Teton Range. And it’s just six Alpine Slide offers an exhilarating and scenic way blocks south of the town square. to descend the mountain. Riders can control their The National Elk Refuge can be seen to the speed down the 2,500-foot slide that snakes northeast and the ’s landmark, through trees and flowers. The Sleeping Indian, rests northeast of the refuge. Finally, folks of all ages can entertain them- Even Yellowstone National Park can be viewed off in selves for hours at the base of the mountain by put- the distance, too. Short nature hikes start from the ting their way around an 18-hole mini-golf course top, where a picnic area provides an idyllic lunch near Snow King’s lodge. spot. Forest Service naturalists, who likely will No doubt about it: this is the Old and the New enrich your knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna West. and distant mountain ranges, guide hikes there. For information call (307) 733-5200 or go to And that summit is there for everyone. A chair www.snowking.com. lift whisks riders from the town’s elevation of 6,180 Samantha Worthington lives in Jackson,writes feet to the crest’s 7,751 feet in a matter of minutes. freelance, and was a reporter for the Jackson Hole More hearty visitors, of course, can ascend Snow News & Guide. King’s slope along its trails and traverses,on foot or Photos: Bob Woodall (top); Wade McKoy (bottom) (top); Wade Photos: Bob Woodall NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Family Restaurant • The finest live music acts in “Jackson’s most friendly steakhouse” the region STEAKS ~ SEAFOOD CHICKEN ~ COMBINATION PLATES • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, GREAT SOUP & SALAD BAR Solos, Duos,Trios & Big Band OPEN 7AM BREAKFAST BUFFET Offering Harley, ATV, Car & SUV rentals • Impeccable references LUNCH & DINNER FREE WIRELESS INTERNET 307-733-5110 • 375 N. Cache Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 1 block south of Town Square • 307-733-2639 43 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl [email protected] P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 Jackson, Wyoming E-mail: [email protected]

44 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 100% Natural

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HOTEL & CONDOMINIUMS

Snow King Resort Features... Great Family Resort located in the Town of Jackson SCENIC CHAIRLIFT ALPINE SLIDE • Ride the scenic chairlift to • Control you own speed the top of Snow King for a • Fun for all ages view like no other in • 2500 foot slide Jackson Hole • Group discounts available • Nature Trail • Open 10:00 daily • Picnic area • At the yellow & blue chairlift above Snow King Resort HOTEL AMENITIES • 204 Hotel Rooms • Outdoor Heated Pool, Hot Tubs, Sauna Hotel rooms and rental condomiums with • 1-4 Bedroom Condominiums a western feel and the amenities that you would expect • Restaurant, Lounge • Free Wi-Fi from a premier, full service hotel and resort. Alpine Slide - 307-733-7680 Scenic Chairlift - 307-734-2100 www.snowking.com 400 E. SNOW KING AVE, JACKSON, WY 83001 800-522-5464 307-733-5200 www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 45 eton illage T VWYOMING83025 Photos: Andrew McGarry (paraglider) Bob Woodall (hike, Indians), Wade McKoy (bike) (hike, Indians), Wade Andrew McGarry (paraglider) Bob Woodall Photos:

by Shannon Brooks Not just a tiny, winter-only ski ham- N details, check with the Guest Service Center at the let, Teton Village bustles year-round base of the mountain. with hotels, restaurants, activities galore, and easy While most people ride the tram back down, access to Grand Teton National Park. It’s a great base other options beckon the more adventurous. Some camp during a summer visit to Jackson Hole. folks hike down the Mountain Trail, a distance of 7.2 Start discovering the Village with a 4,139-vertical- miles,while a few hardy souls even fly down.Yep,you foot tram ride. But do it this can sprout wings on a 20- summer, the last chance minute tandem flight with anyone will have for a while! Jackson Hole Paragliding. The aerial tram carried its Their certified pilots have final load of skiers and logged hundreds of hours snowboarders during the flying in the Tetons and are 2006 winter ski season and eager to introduce first- this fall will convey the final timers to the unique experi- load of summer vacationers ence of tandem paragliding. on the round-trip journey A running start to lift-off into the high alpine land- launches the paraglider on a scape of flowers and granite. peaceful, exhilarating flight On the way to the tram’s to the valley floor. lofty terminus, the 10,450- Want to keep your feet foot summit of Rendezvous closer to the ground? The Mountain, you might spot Jackson Hole Mountain moose, deer, or even a black Resort recently created a bear foraging on the moun- bike trail system that Explore the alpine ecosystem (top) while hik- tainside. Panoramic views includes intermediate and ing trails from the top of the aerial tram. spark inspiration while a advanced riding, with miles Advanced cyclists (above) can bike all the variety of hiking options tug of rolling single-track. Ride way to the summit of at your boots. Take a short, naturalist-led tour into your own “steed” or rent a mountain bike from on the Solitude Road or stop midway to ride back down (no downhill riding is allowed Cody Bowl or trek expedition-style into Bridger- Jackson Hole Sports, where you can also purchase a from the summit, but you and your bike are Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National lift ticket to transport your bike up Teewinot Chair. treated to a complimentary tram ride to the Park. Bring a jacket, though, even for a short walk— Pick up a trail map from the Guest Service Center. bottom). Native American Indians dance dur- high-altitude weather can get ugly fast. For all the Advanced riders can bike all the way to the summit ing Teton Village Summerfest (left).

46 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 ® Summer in Teton Village

The certified pilots who fly for Jackson Hole Paragliding often Summer in Teton Village perform dramatic aerial maneuvers while flying solo. on the Solitude Road or stop midway to ride back down. No downhill riding is allowed from the summit, but you (and your bike) are treated to a complimentary tram ride to the bottom. Non-mechanized trail riding is available at Bill Scott’s Jackson Hole Trail Rides, whose gentle horses provide an old-school tour of the trails in neighboring Grand Teton National Park—perfect for families. There’s also a golf course in Teton Village,but these links require discs,not driv- Jackson Hole Aerial Tram# ers. The free, nine-hole Frisbee golf course winds up and around the base area. After 40 years and over 9 million riders, our aerial tram is giving us one more season. Strategically placed picnic tables along the course are perfect for resting and refuel- Rising 4,139 feet in 12 minutes, you’ll get a first-hand perspective of why Jackson Hole ing. Pick up a free course map at Nick Wilson’s,where discs may also be purchased. has been attracting millions of annual visitors for more than a century. While kids can enjoy all of the activities in Teton Village, they also have their own kid-specific choices. The fishing pond is a wonderful place for junior anglers Jackson Hole Sports to test their casting skills against native trout, and rods are available at the cabin Located in the Bridger Center, Teton Village adjacent to the pond. The Grand Teton Music Festival hosts a variety of Young Your one stop shop for an active summer outing. Bike Rentals for the entire People’s Concerts throughout the summer, with themes and music geared toward family, technical gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories, gifts & resort the younger set.The Kid’s Ranch at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort engages - souvenirs. Free Teewinot lift access with any full day bike rental. Trail maps & information. 307.739.2687 schoolers with arts and crafts,short hikes,and local wildlife education.Older chil- dren can join Team Extreme and spend their days mountain biking, rock climb- Kids Ranch Day Camp ing, and orienteering. Teton Village is a place of wonder for all ages. And for children aged three years to Teton Village also offers more tranquil pursuits. If you feel it necessary to get fifth grade, we offer a day camp with exciting learning adventures. Activities include away while getting away, the Spa at the Teton Mountain Lodge features the Lomi hikes, outdoor sports, and science and art projects. For details on all programs, call Lomi, a traditional Hawaiian massage, as well as a selection of massages designed 307.739.2788. to treat mountain-weary muscles. For some serious shopping, check out Teton Village Sports, which features a large selection of outdoor apparel, shoes, and Activities Desk Centered in the heart of Teton Village, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Activities continued page 49 Desk is the activity headquarters for your summer vacation. From hiking and biking to rafting and fishing, the Activities Desk can help ensure you enjoy a memorable visit. The Activities Desk is your source for information, reservations and tickets for Last Summer for Aerial Tram all the wonderful activities Jackson Hole offers. For reservations or information, please At what ski area other than Jackson Hole does the experience of riding a lift contact the Activities Desk at 307.739.2654 equal,or even eclipse,that of skiing its terrain? And given the legendary status of Jackson’s terrain, this is no easy feat. The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s aerial Activities in Teton Village tram is more than a ski lift: it is an icon, symbolizing all that is great and chal- Mountain Dew® Climbing Wall , Bungee Trampoline, Fishing Pole Rentals, Disc Golf, Grand Teton Music Festival, Exum Mountain Guides, Horseback Rides, Paragliding lenging about skiing. Tourists and locals alike recognize the status of the tram, so, understandably, everyone was stunned when the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort announced last summer that it will retire the famous lift this fall. Contact Information The news was met with confusion, opposition, and anger. Ski Magazine 307.733.2292 / www.jacksonhole.com / [email protected] equated Jackson Hole without its tram to Mount Rushmore without Lincoln’s nose, or Santa Claus without his beard. Resort officials have been studying the situation and examining their options,saying their preferred alternative is to replace the tram.A decision will be announced this summer. In 2004, the resort hired ski lift manufacturer Doppelmayer-CTEC to com- $2 OFF pletely analyze the tram’s integrity. The resulting report revealed that merely THE replacing parts wouldn’t guarantee the longevity of a 40-year-old lift. AERIAL TRAM Although all facets of the tram are at this time fully functional, certain pieces of equipment would be “compromised” over the next few years, said Adults_____ Seniors_____ Juniors_____ resort communications director Anna Olson. With this thought in mind, the Coupon valid May 27 - October 1, 2005. Mountain Country Magazine resort felt it had no other alternative than to retire the tramway after the sum- mer-2006 season.—Ed Bushnell

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 47 Hit the Trail to The West Saddle up for a ride into the mountains Pack trips (above) can transport you deep into the wilderness in comfort and style. Young cow- by Bob Woodall boys and cowgirls (below) quickly become at home on their horses. here is west, and there is The West.Not a direc- ence, though, sign on for a multi-day pack trip or a ever, are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are tion, but a place steeped in history and full of full week at a dude ranch. advisable,and because the weather can change rapidly Ticons and symbols.And the one icon epitomiz- Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” says here in the real West,bring a raincoat.Also on the short ing the West is the cowboy astride his horse, riding Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters.“Seventy-five list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water into the sunset. If you’re in search of that connection percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s bottle, camera, and binoculars. with the West, why not saddle up and go for a ride? fun to take inexperienced people and see the big Next, decide how much time you really have for Although loping off into the horizon may not be smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, on your agenda,finding a horse to mount up and ride learn to ride.”Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into Yellowstone Outfitters offers two-hour, half-day, and couldn’t be easier. No matter where one travels, trail the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also rides are available. And there are many ways to the Tetons unfold around every bend. provide three- and six-day pack trips, as indulge oneself. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If Wilderness areas are only accessible on well as Orvis-endorsed fishing trips that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day foot or horseback. So why ride a horse? to the Yellowstone River. And if you or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experi- “The thrill of just being on the back of want the Western adventure a horse,” says Dahle “is part of the without spending the whole Western adventure that people are time on a horse, check out the after.” overnight wagon train trips. Agreed, notes, Cameron Spend half of the trip on the Garnick, of the Triangle C Dude wagon and the rest on horse- Ranch.But that’s not all.“You can back. Campfire cookouts see much more,” he points out, come complete with a “because you are not having to singing cowboy serenading watch the trail. You can look campers by a fire under the around at the 360-degree view, star-filled sky. enjoy the smell of the sage, the Now, if a couple days in the sounds of the forest, listen to saddle have not reined in your streams,and drink in the landscape— desire for an Old West vacation, and physical limitations can be over- consider a stay at a dude ranch, the come.”Traveling at 4-5 miles an hour, hors- ultimate Western experience. In the es can cover lots of territory, and in a short time 1880s the term “dude” was applied to riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus,“you are dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate Guided Horseback Trail Rides men, and cowboys,”says Garnick. “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude 2 hour - $42.00 Half Day - $65.00 All Day - $120.00 Up the trail at Togwotee Mountain Lodge, cow- ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” All Day Rides include a Sack Lunch boys head up Angle Mountain where Jeff Golightly ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not feals the views are “Most striking and dramatic, the dropped the “dude”from their name: those will be the Yellowstone entire Teton Range and all of Jackson Hole is laid out ranches offering the most authentic experience. Outfitters in front of you.” A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the Acording to Golightly, Togwotee typically takes romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pam- TETON WILDERNESS - HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES & WAGONS WEST - COVERED WAGON TREKS smaller groups on their one-hour, two-hour, half and pered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, full-day rides,making for a more personal experience. including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, 543-2418 Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail, Western sing-a-longs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor { Local calls from Jackson } what’s next? their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so 1-800-447-4711 dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia,but a few items take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a Permittee of Bridger Teton National Forest and will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are whole week. Teton Wilderness Area • Outfitter License #085

best, but any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, how- Saddle up—and Happy Trails to you! C Ranch (horsemen) / Triangle (climber); Bob Woodall Phoros: Greg VonDoersten 48 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Teton Village—continued from page 47 equipment for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing, Saturday, with variations that include chamber and snowboarding. And Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop music, spotlight-themed concerts, and the full festi- in the Alpenhof boasts a fine selection of fishing gear, val orchestra.At the opposite end of the musical spec- outdoor clothing, backpacking trum, the Mangy Moose lures supplies, footwear, and also top rock,bluegrass,funk,and houses the North Face Summit everything in-between music Shop.Nick Wilson’s,located right acts to their studio-quality stage next to the tram, has a complete throughout the summer. array of Jackson Hole Mountain The Teton Village Resort logo gear. For sustenance, Summerfest hosts a variety of the Mangy Moose Market and events throughout the summer. Grocery and the Teton Village Families will especially enjoy Market both stock an assort- the annual Solstice Family Fun Your Gateway ment of food staples and wines. and Fishing Day, with a fishing For those who would rather derby, face painting, games and choose their wine from a wine food, as well as the Grand Teton to Yellowstone list, Teton Village doesn’t disap- Music Festival Family Day that point.The hotels harbor the fine- helps educate children about dining establishments. The Climbing the artificial rock in orchestra music. Antiques col- Country Cascade Grill House & Spirits in Teton Village while belayed by lectors will enjoy both the Silver the Teton Mountain Lodge spe- an instructor can provide a fun Car Show showcasing vintage cializes in native dishes like and safe activity for anyone. automobiles and the annual smoked bison carpaccio, Henry’s Fork trout, and Mangy Moose Antiques Show. Other must-do events molasses-seared elk.No need for a dinner jacket any- include the annual Micro Brew Festival and the where in Teton Village, “resort casual” defines the Indian Arts Show and Dance. For the full schedule of dinner style. For lunch, outdoor dining options Summerfest events, look in the Jackson Hole Daily. abound at Cascade Grill House & Spirits, and Nick With this abundance of unique activities and Wilson’s Cowboy Cafe. amenities, Teton Village has become a full-fledged, After-dinner activities include Grand Teton year-round resort and an essential part of the com- Music Festival concerts. The Grand Teton Music plete Jackson Hole summer vacation. Lodging • Modern Cabins Festival assembles an all-star cast of musicians who Outdoor BBQs wax melodic in the acoustically superb Walk Festival Shannon Brooks is an account manager with Full Catering Services Hall. Concerts begin at 8 p.m., Tuesday through Stanwood and Partners Public Relations. Restaurant and Bar Fishing • Hiking ON HOLE PARAGL CKS IDIN JA G Whitewater Rafting COME AND Horseback Riding • Pack Trips STAY WITH US. Weddings • Reunions • Retreats Enjoy a comfortable, 800-543-2847 www.togwoteelodge.com pleasant and inexpensive Tandem [email protected] stay at the base of the Jackson Highway 26/287 POBox 91 Paragliding Moran, Wyoming 83013 Hole Mountain Resort. Under permit of the BTNF Enjoy the magnificent Flights and breathtaking country. Soar with the eagles and take 1 or 2 persons $58.00 in the awesome 3 or 4 Persons $70.00 views of the Teton Mountain Range.

Box 546, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 FAX: 307-739-1142 http://www.hostelx.com 307-690-4948 www.jhparagliding.com

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 49 PinedaleWYOMING82941 Photos: Fred Pflughoft (llamas); Bob Woodall (3) Photos: Fred Pflughoft (llamas); Bob Woodall

Llamas carry the bulk of the load, making backpacking into the Winds much easier. by Julianne Couch SSome would argue that tion playing in the nearby mountains and forests. Pinedale is the perfect Wyoming You can find this home to approximately 1,500 people on U.S.191 at an elevation of 7,100 feet and town. Plenty to do without being snuggled against the Wind River Mountains. It is touristy.Easily accessible without too much pave- 78 miles from Jackson Hole and 130 miles from ment. Plenty of cattle but also lots of wildlife. Yellowstone National Park. But look closer: in A long winter but great access to skiing and Pinedale’s back yard are the Wind River snowmobiling.A short summer but tons of near- Mountains,the Bridger-Teton National Forest,and by record-setting trout streams and fishing lakes. the Bridger Wilderness. The Wilderness itself con- In short, Pinedale is a great place to spend a tains 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks, including shady afternoon sitting on a bench along a wood- Gannett Peak—Wyoming’s highest at 13,804 en sidewalk, watching the world go by. It’s also a feet—and hundreds of miles of trails, streams, Rare sites such as this historic gas station make perfect place to spend an eventful, exciting vaca- and forest. There are also some 1,300 lakes, and Daniel, Wyoming, unique.

307-367-3667 31 S. Sublette Ave. Pinedale, WY

• Kitchenettes available • Newly remodeled • Handicap Access • Open Year-Round 307-367-4317 307-367-4317 EMAIL: [email protected] WWW.TETON-COURT-MOTEL.COM LOCATED 1 BLOCK NORTH OF MAIN STREET ON MAGNOLIA

50 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Wyoming's third-highest mountain, 13,742-foot , gives ranchers in the upper Green River valley a splendid view while they raise cattle in the tradition of their western heritage. hundreds of miles of hiking trails and fishing streams thing else entirely. But watch out: locals pride them- times of the mountain men who rendezvoused in the in the Bridger Wilderness. selves on having no franchised restaurants in town— Green River valley. Jim Bridger, Kit Carson, William Fremont, Halfmoon, and other local lakes—as and not a single stoplight. Sublette and his brother Milton, and other hearty well as the Green River—provide fantastic fishing souls sought beaver for the fur trade and along the and boating. Fremont Lake is Wyoming’s second way discovered the beauty and mysteries of the largest natural lake.At 12 miles long,half a mile wide, Rocky Mountains. Six times between 1824 and 1840 and 607 feet deep,Fremont Lake is the seventh-deep- the mountain men gathered just outside of what est in the continental United States. One of the lake’s would in the late 1870s become Pinedale. They most coveted treasures is Mackinaw trout.Halfmoon, enjoyed several days of good times and pelt trading Willow,and Boulder lakes are also great fishing spots. with one another and the local natives. The Green River, of course, is Wyoming’s premier Nowadays when folks echo the call of the moun- trout stream. It originates in the Green River Lakes, tain men to “Meet me at the Green,”they are referring not far from Gannett Peak, and flows for 730 miles Enjoy a dinner cruise on Half Moon Lake in to the Green River Rendezvous Days and Pageant.The before draining into Utah’s Colorado River.It was Wyoming’s only paddle boat. pageant has been held annually on the second week- probably not named for its color (although it is rather Summer fun in Pinedale begins in May with the end of July since 1936.Rendezvous Days,July 6-9,per- green) but for the partner of William Ashley,the man annual opening of the Museum of the Mountain Man petuates the spirit of the original Rendezvous with who “discovered” it. (see next page). The museum sits high on a hill over- several days of activities, including rodeos, art shows, But if you don’t feel like going out into Pinedale’s looking the town and offers outstanding art collec- period crafts, a pelt and plew social with roasted buf- vast back yard, there’s plenty to do right in town, tions and an extensive research library of Western falo,historic demonstrations,and special exhibits and whether you like sports,arts,history,nature,or some- history. It interprets local history and the life and events at the Museum of the Mountain Man. continued page 52

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 51 Meet Me on the Green Only the term “mountain man” can match that of “cowboy” for the wealth of color and lore associated with the “winning of the West.” Cowboys, of course, roamed pretty much every- garnered enough press to where west of the Mississippi and have outlived even earn their places in popular their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But Western culture. And moun- mountain men,who made do with less (after all,cow- tain man Jim Bridger is so boys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much revered around here that visi- went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. tors to Wyoming will find no For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickock, and Wyatt fewer than 21 places honoring Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man. John him. Fitting, then, that a .40 C. Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of caliber half-stock rifle of his Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after should end up in the region’s them. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have certainly most famous collection of mountain man history and memorabilia—Pinedale, McKoy (right) (left); Wade Photos: Bob Woodall PINEDALE, WYOMING Wyoming’s Museum of the The annual Green River Rendezvous Pageant relives the colorful his- tory of the 1830s fur-trade era. The Mountain Mountain Man. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a 200 members of the community perform in origi- Man’s Base hill not far from the site of the original Green River nal costumes, is set for Sunday, July 9 at 1 p.m. at Camp for Rendezvous, which began in 1833 in the “Valley of the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds.For more information Adventure... the Green.”Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of moun- visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant tain men, fur trappers, and missionaries gathered Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or It can be there to barter and trade their goods.The cry “Meet call 307-367-2242. yours too! me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassur- The museum captures the ways and lore of these For information & list of events, call or write: ance to trappers, who spent long and isolated win- hearty individuals. Clothing, artifacts, mounted ani- MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAINMOUNTAIN MAN ters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who mals, even a tipi help bring the days of the mountain PO Box 909 • Pinedale, WY 82941 traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life- man alive. The museum also colorfully showcases Telephone: 1-877-686-6266 • FAX: 307-367-6768 threatening trails. These rendezvous sometimes western wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, [email protected] www.museumofthemountainman.com lasted for months, time enough to get supplies, mountain men, and even bison in its spacious renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple, and, 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given to Meet me on the Green yes, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Bill height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were collection. Fortunately, it has found a permanent 70th Annual located in the Green River Valley. home in this rewarding and informative setting. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily GREEN RIVER point for visitors heading to the 70th Annual Green from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. River Rendezvous, a re-creation of those original Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call Sunday, July 9, is replete with activities for the entire family and toll free 1-877-686-6266 or go online at museu- 1pm at runs July 6-9. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over mofthemountainman.com. —Mike Calabrese Pinedale Rodeo Grounds continued from page 51 Even after the mountain men pack up their pow- livestock and their caretakers. In fact, both sheepmen $5 Admission der, visitors can still enjoy golfing, shopping, dining, and cattlemen found the valley so enticing that in or visiting art galleries. 1902 a battle broke out between the groups vying for The summer calendar is loaded with many other the same territory.When a large flock of grazing sheep events, including a town picnic and fireworks for the looked up to find themselves munching vegetation on 4th of July, golf tournaments, boat regattas, rodeos, a land claimed by cattlemen, the stage was set for trou- Photo Jeannette Boner, Pinedale Roundup county fair, and lots of traditional family-fun events. ble. As a result of their transgression, a band of 150 Once you are ready to leave town, you can hop masked men raided the sheep camps, killing a herder onto the Centennial Scenic Byway, which officially and clubbing to death 2,000 sheep. The rest of the begins just outside of Pinedale.Along the route watch sheep, and their herders, left for other grazing land. for elk, moose, deer, antelope, grizzly and black bear, Today folks are a little more tolerant of differences mountain lion, wolves, and plenty of small mammals in Sublette County and in Pinedale. Hunters, ranch- and other creatures that inhabit the deep forest and, ers, anglers, hikers, horsemen, businessmen, artists, sometimes, the roadways. Or stick closer to town and and tourists all seem to get along just fine in this Parade: Saturday, July 8, 11am take an auto tour of the many historic sites in the town that has something for everyone. area,clearly marked on state maps and complete with Downtown Pinedale on-site historical markers. Julianne Couch is a freelance writer living in www.meetmeonthegreen.com Pinedale has a rich history as a center for farming Laramie,Wyoming. Call (307)367-2242 for information Call (307)367-2242 for information and ranching, its inviting pasture land long a lure to 52 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 eton alley T VIDAHO by Mike Calabrese

Teton Valley,Idaho,“the quiet side of the Tetons,”has become a destination hotspot all its own. It’s no wonder, either. The beautiful basin just over the hill from Jackson Hole is replete with recreational, cultural, and resort opportunities. The valley’s charming towns of Victor,Driggs,and Tetonia,Idaho,lie just to the west of 8,429-foot Teton Pass. Now, it’s true: one of the only traffic lights in the entire valley is right there in the middle of Victor. But a stoplight couldn’t be more helpfully placed. Just beyond it,the charming Victor Emporium serves up arguably the best malteds and milkshakes in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The Emporium also happens to house fishing gear (and fishing updates from folks who know) and just about anything else foks in Victor need.The Emporium’s warm counter staff have helped make it a cen- terpiece in the valley, much like old town post offices used to be. Local anglers would- n’t think of heading off to the South Fork, the Teton, or other nearby fisheries without checking in at the Emporium.And hungry visitors should do the same. After taking the edge off their appetite, travelers heading on to Driggs sometimes nearly run off the road when the Tetons loom into view on the right (the east side of the valley). Just about the time drivers regain their composure, another certifiable landmark pops up, The Spud Drive-in Theatre. This place is almost a national treas- ure.Folks looking for a little romance,or families yearning for a movie and an evening under a billion stars, shouldn’t pass up the Spud. A Spud “Gladysburger,”a stunning sunset, and a movie add up to a perfect summer evening under the Tetons. This year, on July 28-29, the Spud hosts its “Spudfest Take II,”a festival highlighting live music and screenings of independent shorts, features, documentaries, and animations. The Teton Range on the east and the Big Hole Mountains on the valley’s west side Anglers fish the valley’s Blue Ribbon water, the Teton River. (home to some of the region’s best single-track

mountain biking) just beg for exploring. The wilder- • • Merrell • Smith • Carhartt • Dansko • Temple Fork Fly Rods

ness below the Tetons,the Jedediah Smith area,is Cloudveil only minutes from Driggs and is popular with hikers Home of THE World of all ages. Adventurous trekkers employ these trails near Targhee to access and cross over into Grand Nalgene Famous Huckleberry Teton Nat ional Park. • Anglers, by the way, can wet a fly on the valley’s Milkshake • Blue Ribbon water—the Teton River—and cowboys WoolSmart and cowgirls can ride to their hearts’ content in Teton

Sportif  Valley. But the local chamber of commerce has also Where the locals shop made sure that its calendar is packed with fun right in • for flies and fishing gear. the towns themselves. The 4th of July celebration, for instance, welcomes summer visitors in grand style: • Tetonia hosts a rodeo, Driggs launches its annual Hot Rapala  Maui Jim Something for Air Balloon Festival, and Victor lights up • Independence Day with a parade and fireworks. everyone in the family Travelers seeking a bird’s-eye view of Teton Valley can drive just north of Driggs and stop at Teton SUNGLASSES • HATS

 • Aviation.Scenic glider flights start with a tow into the

big cobalt-blue sky and, depending on the day’s ther- SHOES • GIFTS • T-SHIRTS Nalgene mal activity, begin soaring above either Darby or ESPRESSO • JEWELRY Teton canyons. Powered aircraft also make for an

incredible way to view the panorama of the Tetons Native Eyewear

and its surroundings. • • Amateur pilots and crew should check out the Action Optics Warbirds Museum at the Driggs Regional Airport, displaying six fully operational vintage aircraft. Rapala Obviously, “quiet” in Teton Valley has taken on a 208-787-2221 • new meaning, and lucky travelers are taking advan- Located in downtown Victor, ID tage of it. ~ Just 30 minutes from downtown Jackson Hole ~

Mike Calabrese is an editor, angler, and musician Sportif • who owns Noteworthy Music-booking Agency. • Temple Fork Fly Rods • Smart Wool • Smith • Rapala • Sportif

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 53 est ellowstone W Y MONTANA59758 Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall Summer storms in Yellowstone often create rainbows like this one in the Lower Geyser by Kurt Westenbarger Basin (above). Bison graze the lush natural grasses along the Madison River (below) near the town of West Yellowstone.

The town of West Yellowstone, might want, need, or have forgotten from home. couldn’t compete nationally,whiskey production died although not quite as old as the park it As the community evolved, streets wide enough with prohibition’s end, and iceberg lettuce shriveled T to U-turn a four-horse-drawn stagecoach were laid in June and August frosts despite its name), but resi- borders, is no less proud of its heritage. out in the dirt. Tents gave way to solid buildings on dents hung on. Residents built homes and lives and In the early 1900s the Union Pacific Railroad firm foundations. Union Pacific built a log and stone they fell in love with the town they created. wanted a rail line to Yellowstone National Park’s west- ticket office and huge dining hall. Several attempts Most of today’s visitors have found it inconven- ern boundary, in order to better access famous ther- toward economic diversity failed (the lumber mill ient to explore West’s history. In part because few mal features. Seems that even then, folks wanted to take in the wonders of the nation’s first national park. A rough stagecoach road following the Madison River into Yellowstone already existed. Starting from Monida, Montana, and passing through the present town site, this dirt ribbon wound through narrow lava-walled canyons and wide emerald-green mead- ows to enticing places like Castle Geyser, Fountain Paintpots,and Morning Glory Pool.The flat,tree-cov- ered ground where this road entered Yellowstone was the obvious terminal site for Union Pacific. Obvious too were the business opportunities inherent in a major railroad terminal. So by the time Union Pacific finished punching its narrow-gauge rails through dense lodgepole pine wilderness in 1907, and paying passengers began rolling in the fol- lowing year, a village had sprung up from nowhere. Here and there existed small wooden shacks and drafty canvas-wall tents purveying anything a visitor

54 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 EXPLORE THE WEST IN YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY

Your Outdoor Adventure Headquarters for the Greater Yellowstone Area

FULL SERVICE BIKE SHOP 40 Yellowstone Ave BIKE RENTALS West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Hot Breakfast • Pastries • Breads ESPRESSO BAR Birthday Cakes • Great Lunches 406-646-7744 Open at 7am • 406-646-9737 www.freeheelandwheel.com 29 Canyon St • West Yellowstone MT

Buffalo Country Store

Unique Natural Health Goods Country and Beads • Yarns Western Gifts Local & Global Gifts Downtown West 646-7605 • Just off Hwy 20 Yellowstone In the Madison Crossing Bldg. 32 Canyon Street • 406-646-7330

“Best Pizza WestYellowstoneWestYellowstoneY in West WestYellowstone All YellowstoneAll Yellowstone Sports Sports Yellowstone!” The ClosestThe All-Inclusive Closest All-Inclusive Destination Destination to Yellowstone to Yellowstone Park Park TAKE 0UT & DELIVERY

14 Madison Ave. West Yellowstone, 646-4400 Montana ActivitiesActivities & Adventures & Adventures Galore: Galore:  Guided SnowmobilingGuided Snowmobiling Tours and Tours Snowmobile and Snowmobile Rentals Rentals Picnic Box Lunches  Interpretive Interpretive Tours – GuidedTours – Wildlife-ViewingGuided Wildlife-Viewing and and Sandwiches Van ToursVan in Toursthe Summer, in the Summer, Snowcoach Snowcoach Tours Tours in Winterin Winter Made With Fresh  Horseback Horseback Riding – Riding Full Day – Full Rides Day and Rides Extended and Extended Baked Bread! OvernightOvernight Backcountry Backcountry Trips Trips Breakfast-  ® ® Bakery Items Days InnDays West Inn Yellowstone West Yellowstone Well-appointedWell-appointed rooms, indoor rooms, pool indoor and pool the and the Party Trays & only waterslideonly waterslide in town! in town!  Catering Service Trappers TrappersFamily Restaurant Family Restaurant Great home-cooking,Great home-cooking, located offlocated Days offInn Days lobby, Inn lobby, 406.646.9467 Deli Sliced Meats home ofhome the Express of the BreakfastExpress Breakfast Buffet! Buffet! & Cheeses Dine in or take out Call todayCall totoday arrange to arrange an all-inclusive an all-inclusive Call ahead for “no wait” pick up! Beer & Wine YellowstoneYellowstone adventure! adventure! 406 Hwy 20 • West Yellowstone, Montana 1-800-548-95511-800-548-9551 - One -Call One Does Call ItDoes All It All Jeff Henry photos continued from page 54 written materials existed about the town. That Yellowstone in Winter changed recently with the advent of the “West Yellowstone Historical Walking Brochure.” Created by the West Yellowstone Historical Society, the pub- lication covers a small area of a small town, but what’s addressed is big on history. The Old Union Pacific Ticket Office in Heritage Park is nearly surrounded by new structures springing up on West’s south side. At one time tourists took hot baths in back rooms and bought tickets for five-day stage trips through Yellowstone Park. Today, the Yellowstone Museum, with its fine Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall

Yellowstone in winter—a beautiful white wonderland. A wary mother nurses her calf. Old West collection and railroad memorabilia, When winter comes to Yellowstone,it transforms the inhabits the building. park into a wonderland.Sparkling frost clings to the The Union Pacific Dining Hall still exists as well. trees.Blue-green ice forms up the sides of waterfalls Trains used to pull up on its south side, where uni- and geyser-fed waterways remain open, providing a formed “Beanery Queens” welcomed descending winter refuge to hundreds of waterfowl, including passengers with song before serving them piping- the rare trumpeter swan. Bald eagles are seen hot breakfasts inside.Surviving beanery queens sel- perched in snags along the river banks and otters dom gather anymore,but their entertainment tradi- play in the snow.Larger wildlife is also seen in abun- tion survives in melodramas and vaudeville acts dance during the winter months, and visitors often performed downtown by the Playmill Theater’s find themselves sharing the road with bison and elk. young people. The Dining Hall still hosts occasional Transportation is limited to over-snow vehicles dinner and breakfast functions in addition to hous- and restricted to the groomed roadways. coach. Guided tours leave West Yellowstone and ing West’s public library. Snowmobiles allow visitors to enjoy this winter Mammoth daily, enabling visitors of all ages to sit Between the Ticket Office and Dining Hall sits a playground at their own pace. Complete tour pack- back, relax, and take in all the incredible winter small obscure stone building with a fascinating ages, tour guides, and daily rentals are available scenery. Special tours are also available for skiers past. Long ago it was the baggage office, processing throughout the region, including West Yellowstone, interested in gliding through geyser basins or all passenger luggage along with licit and illicit Mammoth, Cody, Jackson, and the Togwotee Pass exploring the backcountry. Ski rentals are avail- freight. Prohibition, for example, saw bushels of area. In addition to the groomed park trails, there able in all the gateway communities. “feed corn” entering West while kegs of Yellowstone are also extensive groomed trail systems in the for- Winter in Yellowstone is a unique experience, “spring water” departed for speakeasies across the est service lands surrounding Yellowstone. and not to be missed.Whether you choose to enjoy nation. Yellowstone Spring Water is still bottled in Snowmobile enthusiasts of all abilities will find it by snowmobile,snowcoach,or on skis,be sure to West, although today’s version is pure, sweet H20. plenty of riding possibilities from which to choose. come back to visit this incredible area when it is An ironic twist has placed West Yellowstone’s pres- The splendor of Yellowstone in winter may also buried under a deep layer of snow.It’s an experience ent police department in this building. be enjoyed in the comfort of an enclosed snow- you’ll never forget. — Bob Woodall Such gems of interest are scattered all over town. The Madison Hotel, for example, was built in 1912 by Dolly and Roxy Bartlett after their arduous ® Experience IMAX , the largest trek to Yellowstone on foot. And Eagle’s Store, where motion picture system in the world. an Eagle still sits behind nearly every counter, stands on the same corner where Sam and Ida Eagle founded their first store in 1907. History is a never-ending development.lt grows, changes, and is interpreted differently as time goes Everything Else on. West Yellowstone’s past is tied directly to Yellowstone National Park and every visitor who is Just a Movie. ever wanted to see Old Faithful. And it may be that Call for Shows and Showtimes its future will hold something of the past, a truly magnificent past. 406-646-4100 www.yellowstoneimax.com Kurt Westenbarger is a freelance writer and Open Year Round ■ 101 S. Canyon ■ West Yellowstone, MT 59758 ■ 888-854-5862 toll free West Yellowstone resident.He leads nature walks in Next to the West Entrance of Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone Park and teaches Yellowstone Area History for Western Montana College, Elderhostel. 56 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West are released back into the section and sniff out the know as much about the animals’ needs as they can, Yellowstone, Montana, is a home away from home to goods.And everyone benefits from the Safety in Bear and minimize negative impacts on the animals. And eight live grizzlies and a pack of gray wolves. This Country demonstration, where a grizzly climbs a tree both the grizzlies and the wolves constantly reveal unique,not-for-profit facility’s “primary mission is to to get at improperly hung food. lessons about themselves. provide visitors to the Yellowstone area an opportuni- Bear history and behavior are further brought to The wolves at GWDC are in a sense ambassadors, ty to learn about, view and ultimately appreciate the life for those who stroll through the exhibit,“BEARS: providing a greater understanding of these remark- grizzly bear and gray wolf.”It may also be a haven for Imagination and Reality.” This view into their life able predators in the Yellowstone ecosystem. Wolf bears and wolves otherwise doomed. compares and contrasts the bear of myth, art, litera- social behavior is some of the most fascinating in the Although some of the grizzlies were orphaned, ture, history, and folklore with the bear as scientists, animal kingdom. Wolves possess a dynamic and others were certifiable problem bears who had outdoorsmen, and researchers know it. Over 25 taxi- strong “family” structure that can be observed at the developed a taste for human foods. Either way, they dermic mounts of grizzly and black bears in displays center while these once nearly extinct animals go were headed for death. The wolves, though, were on bear habitat, food habits, and behavior highlight through their day—if visitors know what to look for. born at other facilities, and could not, therefore, be the exhibition. The center teaches viewers to watch these clever pack released into the wild. So the center made room for Staff presentations such as Live Birds-of-Prey and members for their body posturing,ear position,loca- them, too. And since both the grizzly and now the the Karelian Bear Dog reveal even more about tion in their habitat, and tail position. A naturalist is wolf are thriving inhabitants of the Yellowstone Yellowstone animals and behavior. The Karelian Bear on hand to help visitors with interpretations and ecosystem, the center is the perfect place for visitors Dog demonstration, for example, will surprise many interactions. Early morning and evening visitors may to meet up with them. visitors, who are startled to learn that pepper spray even witness the pack as it howls majestically into the The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center (GWDC) and bullets aren’t the only deterrents to grizzly bracing and pure setting of Yellowstone. is open 365 days a year,allowing visitors the opportu- attacks. Exhibits and graphics also offer the more A trip to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center is nity to observe bears and wolves in every season.The curious visitor additional in-depth and fresh insight a must for the Yellowstone and Grand Teton National center’s varied offerings appeal to patrons of all ages. into wildlife. parks vacationer. Admission is good for two days, Children,for example,love helping the staff hide food The greatest threat to grizzlies and wolves is the ensuring enough time to experience all that the cen- for the bears when the ursines are rotated out of one loss of desirable,life-sustaining habitat.Wilderness is ter has to offer. For more information call 800-257- of the sections. The insight into proper food storage not a renewable resource, and in order for humans 2570 or go online at grizzlydiscoveryctr.com. while in bear country is pretty obvious as the bears and wildlife to coexist, humans must endeavor to — GWDC YellowstoneIMAX Theatre Time and nature have conspired to create the vast 35mm camera and three times larger than standard beauty of Yellowstone National Park. Certainly no 70mm movie film. The sound is equally spectacular, human would dare compete with nature’s deft hand literally surrounding the audience with music and at shaping such majesty. That leaves it to mankind to the calls of the natural world. protect, preserve, and—when possible—record But Yellowstone is more than just a stunning visu- nature’s wonders. The designers of the Yellowstone al and aural display.The 42-minute film educates and IMAX Theater have managed to do just that—in a entertains, and differs from nature or travelogue big way! movies by focusing on both the human and geologic Located next to the park’s entrance at West history of the park. This movie provides an excellent Yellowstone, Montana, the theater offers visitors a orientation to and overview of what could be seen in breathtaking journey through Yellowstone’s wonders. the park. Patrons are plunged into nature’s splendors via No matter what time of year the movie is seen, the technology of IMAX. Projected onto a 60’ by 80’ viewers can experience the spectacular changing of screen, with over 12,000 watts of digital surround the seasons as plumes of steam rise from snow-cov- sound,the IMAX film Yellowstone sends viewers over ered thermal features, while baby mammals frolic in the edge—literally—of the Lower Falls of the Grand fields of spring green, or when bull elk unleash their Canyon of the Yellowstone, thrills them through unique whistling “bugle”during the fall rut. Snake River rapids on a hand-crafted wood raft, and Other IMAX movies featured along with chills them with a chase through camp by a maraud- Yellowstone include Lewis and Clark: Great Journey ing grizzly bear. West,and Coral Reef Adventure. Equally informative From its opening frames of a majestic sunrise are re-enactments of human activities in the area, over Dunraven Pass to incredible close-ups of gush- including scenes of the region’s first known residents, ing geysers, the film drops viewers into the middle of the Tukudika tribe. the big picture, immersing the audience in bubbling The marvels of this ever-changing park can be mud pots, steaming fumaroles, and tranquil twilight experienced daily at the Yellowstone Imax Theatre. moments. Visit the theater online at www.yellow- The beauty of IMAX is in the brilliance and clar- stoneimax.com or call 888-854-5862 toll free. ity of the picture, shot on film 10 times the size of a —Nancy Kessler

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 57 ubois DWYOMING82513

by Susan Moulton

The ‘glory road’ through Wyoming,

Tof course, leads right into Teton C Ranch / Triangle Bob Woodall and Yellowstone National parks. But along that road Pack trips originate in the Dubois area and take riders into the vast wilderness. rests a jewel of a little town. Plunked down amidst including just the right angle on fishing hot spots and street—perhaps captivated by the town—and some of the country’s most beautiful landscape is the suitable equipment to employ in the area’s crystal checking out the motels.Heavy with charm and light Dubois,Wyoming. clear streams and lakes. Native cutthroat, browns, in price, the local motels will persuade you to stay a An hour or so away from Jackson, Dubois boasts rainbows, and brookies populate the local fisheries, while. The historic Twin Pines Motel and the an exterior that’s rough, ready, and brimming with its themselves worth a visit even by non-anglers. Branding Iron Motel, for example, both offer respite own kind of Western. Each plank of its rustic board Looking to kick back with a good read? Julie and and comfort to the weary traveler. sidewalk, for example, is branded with names of her staff at Two Ocean Books are like knowledgeable The rich beauty of handcrafted log is captured in locals, area ranches, and fond visitors. And the fancy wine stewards.Ifyou need help in finding the best The Twin Pines. This abode recalls the early 1930s era log work gracing some of the town’s buildings harkens book in your area of interest, or suggestions for good and the style and feel of those classic Yellowstone back to the area’s celebrated tie-hack era. vacation fare, they await, a complete book menu at National Park accommodations.And,yes,twin pines, A tie-hack was a logger who felled trees and hand.Western writers have truly come of age,and Two planted by the motel’s original owners, still adorn the hacked or shaped them into railroad cross ties.At one Ocean Books has kept pace with the new and old entrance to the main building. time logging was the main industry of the Dubois West’s finest authors. It’s no surprise that another Dubois standout, The area, and the town gained a lot of its character from But coming to Dubois for just the shops is like end- Branding Iron Motel, boasts cabins fashioned of those early day lumbermen, along with ranchers, out- ing your dinner after the appetizer, no matter how Swedish-coped logs dating from the early 1940s. laws, and Native Americans. tasty. The real meal awaits in the fabulous surround- Somehow, overnighting in classic log structures Dubois shops vary, from long-established compa- ings: the colorful Badlands and the vast Shoshone just feels right, out here in the West. nies to the brand new, and let visitors know they’re in National Forest,both filled with wildlife,clean air,fish- But if you’re only passing through, Taylor Exxon big country. Wind River Gear, in its recently refur- ing, and eye-popping scenery—and the elbow room and market will have you and your vehicle fueled up bished log building, offers equipment for any outdoor to enjoy it all in. Everything but the crowds! and ready to go in no time. Chances are, though, you’ll adventure. And that rainbow in the sky (the piscine The menu for the town’s lodging is also diverse. make it a point to find your way back to Dubois coun- perched on the pole outside) signals your arrival at But it may be a hard choice! One Dubois motel try on your return trip. And you’ll thank your lucky Tackle. Both shops can outfit the owner commented that in the late afternoon, he stars, too. Western gems like Dubois shouldn’t be visitor for any of the region’s recreational activities, watches the cars drive slowly up and down the main passed up.

Backpacking Stop in for all your Pizza & Subs fishing, camping & Fly Fishing hunting supplies. Hiking•Books Grab ‘n Dash Whiskey Mtn. Maps•Topos Tackle & Sports

19 N. 1st Street 307.455.3468 1428 Warm Springs Drive Downtown Dubois TAYLOR CREEKK EXXON 307-455-2587 [email protected] West End of Dubois - 1 block from Super 8 • 307-455-3320 [email protected]

Twin Pines Lodge & Cabins Your Home Away from Home, In Yellowstone Country

401 West Ramshorn Dubois, WY (307)455-2893

# Neat & clean rooms # Walking distance from # Family business up town shops & eats # Open year round # A park for everyone 307-455-2600 • Toll Free Reservations: 1-800-550-6332 # Plenty of parking to enjoy in front of 218 W. Ramshorn St • [email protected] # Horse corrals the motel www.twinpineslodge.com

58 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 WILD PLACES TO GO – WILD THINGS TO DO

Dedicated guides respect the sport & the frag- Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. ile resource and will deliver a quality experi- 307-739-2687 pg 47 ence within those parameters. Private overnight fishing experience is enhanced by a IMAX THEATRE night at our River Camp. 307-732-BOAT pg 19 JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP Professional WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA fishing guides, complete fishing shop. On the YELLOWSTONE IMAX THEATRE Shown on a 6-story high screen Town Square & in Teton Village. 307-733-3270 with 6-channel digital surround sound, “Yellowstone” highlights pg 27 the history, wildlife & geothermal aspects of our country’s first SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Fly-fishing national park. 101 Canyon St. 888-854-5862 pg 56 instruction & guided fishing trips. Full service paddle sports specialty store. PARAGLIDING snakeriverkayak.com 307-733-9999 pg 18 JACKSON HOLE PARAGLIDING RIDES Tandem rides from the top TETON VILLAGE A tour on horseback is a great of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, Rendezvous Mountain. Instruction way to see Grand Teton National Park or to also available. For reservations & rates stop by Nick Wilson’s Cowboy catch a glimpse of the local wildlife. From Cafe in Teton Village or call 307-690-4948 pg 49 Teton Village hourly/all-day rides can be reserved. Call 307-732-3618 pg 47 RODEO WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS CODY, WYOMING Relive pioneer days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Wade McKoy Wade the Mt. Leidy highlands. Chuckwagon meals, Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, cov- nightly entertainment, gentle horses. wag- ered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered AUTO— MOTORCYCLE RENTAL & SERVICES [email protected] 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 48 wagon in city park, front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 37 DUBOIS, WYOMING WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING TAYLOR CREEK EXXON C-Store & Pizza/Sub Deli. All your travel experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone JH RODEO Wild West action - Jackson’s lowest-priced family activi- needs: groceries, fresh ground coffee, fuel, propane, & auto sup- National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 23 plies. Car Wash. West end of Dubois. 307-455-3320. pg 58 ty, kid’s events. Family-$35 Wednesdays & Saturdays - 8:00. Reserved YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into seats - $14 per ticket. Free parking. Special July 4th Rodeo. 4 blocks JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Teton Wilderness, Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Trophy cut- from downtown Jackson. 307-733-2805 pg 37 EAGLE RIDER MOTORCYCLE RENTAL & JH RECREATION throat. Custom scenic trips available. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. wag- RENTALS Specializing in Harley Davidson, ATV and Car & SUV [email protected], 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 48 TRAM–CHAIRLIFTS & ALPINE SLIDE rentals. Discounts on longer rentals. Service oriented. YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hour or all day Teton Wilderness www.eaglerider.com Motel and Airport drop off & pickups. 307- horseback rides. Custom scenic trips available. Box Creek base camp JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 734-5110 pg 44 east of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & THE ALPINE SLIDE AT SNOW KING RESORT All ages, go at your Sept. Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 48 own speed down a 2500-foot slide. Group rates. Daily from 10am. BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE PINEDALE, WYOMING At the yellow & blue chairlift above the Snow King Resort Hotel. 307-733-5200 pg 45 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HALF MOON LAKE RESORT prides itself on offering a variety of hunting experiences. This year-round resort also offers pack trips, JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM From Teton Village ride the Tram FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk alpine fishing trips, hourly horseback riding and equipment drops for up Rendezvous Mountain to 10,450’ for spectacular views of Jackson Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. those wanting a solo experience.800-237-9138, 307-367-6373 pg 51 Hole & the surrounding mountains. Complimentary guided hike Beginners thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 into Grand Teton National Park. 307-733-2292 pg 47 pg 35 TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO SNOW KING SCENIC CHAIRLIFT Enjoy a view like no other of FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole look- VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & Jackson Hole & the Tetons from the top of Snow King Mountain. ing for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Guided nature hikes & picnic area. 307-733-5200 pg 45 interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer serv- Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride Teewinot Chairlift in Teton Village with ice a must! 307-734-6886 pg 35 the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 53 your bike to access miles of single track for all types of riders. HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Tickets & bike rentals available at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for ALL YELLOWSTONE SPORTS Backcountry rides in National forest Center, at the base of the lift. 307-739-2687 pg 47 Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West or Yellowstone National Park. Great family outing. We are a Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 35 Yellowstone authorized park concession. 800-548-9551 pg 55 WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day MUSEUMS & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKING CODY, WYOMING and more. 307-739-2687 pg 47 SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER “One of the finest museums TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike rentals, repairs & accessories in Teton in the world.” Cody Fire Arms Museum, Whitney Gallery of Western Village. We also offer a large selection of apparel, shoes & equip- JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Art, Plains Indian Museum, Buffalo Bill Museum. 720 Sheridan Ave. ment for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboarding. A. J. DeROSA’S WOODEN BOAT RIVER TOURS Private Snake River 307-587-4771 pg 41 307-733-2181 pg 31 float trips. Brunch, hors’ doeurves or dinner at private camp. Lunch WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA on full day trips. Overnight in teepee. Groups up to 6. Traditional JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING hand-crafted McKenzie River Boats accommodate 3 adults or 2 FREE HEEL & WHEEL Nordic ski & bicycle specialists. Rentals, adults & 2 children. 307-732-BOAT pg 19 RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas repairs & sales. Coffee shop inside. We offer casual & technical take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous clothing. Patagonia dealer. Local knowledge. Comfortable atmos- CHARLIE SANDS WILD WATER Whitewater trips in 8 & 14 man u- & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 phere. Enjoy an espresso while shopping. 40 Yellowstone, 406-646- paddle boats. Overnight dinner and morning breakfast combo S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 17 7744 pg 55 trips. Scenic Float trips. Since 1964. 1-800-358-8184. www.sandswhitewater.com pg 16 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SHCOOLS provides CLIMBING year-round wildlife viewing and natural history interpretation to CLACKACRAFT DRIFT BOATS For 30 years ClackaCraft has been the anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING leader in drift boat design. ClackaCraft is committed to conservation Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeex- through partnerships with Trout Unlimited and Jackson Hole One CLIMBING WALL Located in Teton Village at the base of the moun- peditions.org 307.733.2623 pg 12 Fly Foundation among others. pg 23 tain, practice your climbing skills on our specially designed Mountain Dew ® Climbing Wall. 307-733-2292 pg 47 MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS Smaller boats. Bigger Action. 12 depar- PINEDALE, WYOMING tures daily, Enjoy delicious lunch or BBQ dinners riverside. Explore CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction - 70th ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour- our River Runners Museum. 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458- Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history 7238 pg 17 Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 9, 1pm at the Reservations: 307 733-2297. pg 27 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater rafting in the Snake Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 52 River Canyon. Single-day & overnight backcountry sea kayaking MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, OUTFITTERS & GUIDES trips in Yellowstone. Canoe & kayak instruction for all ages & abili- Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily ties. Full service paddle sports specialty shop.307-733-9999 pg 19 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING PINEDALE, WYOMING July 6–9, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 52 TOGWOTEE PASS–DUBOIS, WYOMING HALF MOON LAKE RESORT If it's water and a pure clean lake your WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, looking for, Half Moon Lake Resort is the place to be. Our twenty- covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River slip dock is the only dock on the lake. We have a large fleet of boats GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER An exciting visit awaits the Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 to fill your needs; from canoes to fishing, motor boats & party entire family where you’ll see live grizzly bears and a pack of gray barges. 800-237-9138, 307-367-6373 pg 51 wolves. Daily activities include live bird-of-prey presentations, TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE 1 hour, 2 hour, Half day, Full day camping safely demonstrations, films and special kids activities. 1- rides into Bridger-Teton National Forest. Ages 5+. Amazing Teton 800-257-2570 pg 57 views. Overnight and fishing trips available. [email protected], 1-800-543-2847. pg 49 GOLF–FRISBEE & MINI SEEYELLOWSTONE.COM Tours of Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks. Summer: Geyser & Wildlife van tours. Winter: snow- WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING coah & snowmobling tours. Discount packages with lodging 1-800- that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting ALPINE MINI-GOLF A beautifully landscaped 18-hole miniature 221-1151 www.seeyellowstone.com pg 55 & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 58 golf course with waterfalls, ponds & Teton views. Located next to YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE TOURS Summer van tours, winter the Alpine Slide at Snow King Resort. Open 10am daily. 307-733- JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING snowcoach tours. Wildlife viewing, geyser watching, overnights 7680 pg 45 available. Also guided snowmobile tours all in Yellowstone. A. J. DeROSA’S FISHING TRIPS Guiding fishermen since 1978. 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Authorized park concessionaires. 1-800-548-9551 pg 55

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 59 LODGING DINING GROCERIES LOUNGES PUBS ACCOMMODATIONS & CAMPING VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facili- ties, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 37 DUBOIS, WYOMING WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the finest wines, BRANDING IRON INN A family business, within walking distance liquors & beers from around the world. At The Aspens, Teton Village of uptown shops & eats. Open year-round, with a park for everyone Road. 307-733-5038 [email protected] pg 29 to enjoy in front of motel, horse corrals, plenty of parking. 307-455- 2893 pg 58 FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES TRIANGLE C RANCH Summer: 3-6 day traditional summer dude DUBOIS, WYOMING ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. Pack trips. Winter: Lodging, Ol’ West in Winter packages, snowcoach to TAYLOR CREEK EXXON C-Store & Pizza/Sub Deli. Fresh-made Yellowstone National Park. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225 Subs & Pizzas. All your travel needs: groceries, fresh ground cof- fee, fuel, propane, & auto supplies. Car Wash. West end of Dubois. TWIN PINES LODGE & CABINS Lodge & Cabins, A classic since 307-455-3320. pg 58 1934, modern with rustic ambiance, cable TV, VCR's, refrigerators, walking distance to restaurants, taverns & shopping, reasonable JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING rates, Continental breakfast, Downtown, 800-550-6332 pg 58 BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & take- out. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 64 CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 64 CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Serving breakfast, lunch & dinner. Featuring New Western Cuisine. Located slopeside in the Teton Mountain Lodge at Teton Village. Aprés ski specials and cozy fireside bar. Banquets & catering available. 307-732-6932 pg 43 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain. Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoy aged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 35 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, JACKSON HOLE & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ, gift TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO FLAT CREEK INN Great views of the Sleeping Indian from every packs available, WE SHIP!. A must stop when in Jackson, Free VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous Huckleberry room. Microwave, fridge, coffee maker, hot tub/sauna. Suites avail- Samples Located in Eagle Village @ SMITH’S Plaza, 5 min. south of Shakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! able. 1 mile north of Jackson, 1935 Hwy 89. 307-733-5276 or 800- town 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 45 Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 53 438-9338 pg 19 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 88 page magazine is a com- WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA HOMEWOOD SUITES All-suite hotel located just off the Town pendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food BEADLES Natural health goods, foods, beads, yarns, hand-made Square featuring kitchens, gas fireplace, complimentary Suite Start types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge gifts made by local Artisans plus global items. In the Madison Breakfast, hi speed internet and indoor pool / Whirlpool and fitness or view on line at www.focusproductions.com Crossing Bldg, just off Hwy 20, 406-646-7606 pg 55 center. 260 N.Millward, Jackson, 307-739-0808 pg 4 McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness ERNIE’S DELI & BAKERY Picnic box lunches. Sandwiches made HOSTEL X A friendly family lodge with rooms for 1-2 at $58 or 3-4 at & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared break- with fresh baked bread! Deli-sliced meats & cheeses. Breakfast bak- $70, all have private baths & maid service. At the base of the Jackson fast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. ery items. Dine in or take out. Beer & wine. Call ahead for “no wait” Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. 307-733-3415 pg 49 5:30am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 16 pick-up! 406-646-9467, 406 Hwy 20. pg 55 SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel & conference center with RAFFERTY’S Casual fare in our plant-filled atrium. Extensive breakfast TRAPPERS RESTAURANT Adjacent to the Days Inn, enjoy delicious condominiums, restaurant, lounge, & spa facilities. Alpine slide, buffet daily, in season. Lunch & dinner. Full beverage & wine service. food in a family atmosphere. Known for our sour dough, take some miniature golf, chairlift rides to the summit of Snow King Mountain. Snow King Resort. pg 45 home. Only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 Madison 307-733-5200 pg 45 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 55 TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE Luxury full-service resort hotel located chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl & TUBBY’S BAKERY Serving breakfast and lunch. Pastries, birthday slopeside at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Cascade Restaurant & Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 44 cakes, fresh breads and rolls, huge cinnamon rolls, espresso, coffee, fireside bar on-site. Indoor/outdoor pools, hot tubs & full service spa. TETON VILLAGE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. 11 restaurants offer juices, fruit smoothier, to-go Boxed lunches. 7am-2pm 29 Canyon Banquets & catering available. 307-734-7111 pg 43 fare from breakfast to burgers, sushi to Continental Elegance. Teton Street, 406-646-9737 pg 55 TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premiere snowmobiling resort in Village. 307-733-2292 pg 47 WILD WEST PIZZA Best pizza you ever tasted! Fresh ingredients, we winter; your gateway to Teton and Yellowstone National Parks in TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE’S Grizzly Steakhouse serving B/L/D make our own dough. Giant Calzones, pastas, sandwiches, meatball summer. Log Cabins, Lodge Rooms, Restaurant, Bar, Gas Station, ranging from wild game to seafood to box lunches. Come to the Red subs. Take out & delivery. 14 Madison Av., 208-646-4400 pg 55 Hot Tubs. 1-800-543-2847, [email protected]. pg 49 Fox Saloon--pool, darts, spirits and lively locals! 1-800-543-2847 pg 49. VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant, WESTSIDE STORE & DELI Full service grocery, deli & meat dept. WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park, Custom sandwiches, fresh baked breads, ATM, gourmet cheese, thin JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING activities, float trips & fishing trips avail. 750 W Broadway. 307-733- crust pizza and specialty foods. On the Teton village road 5 miles 2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 37 before Teton Village @ the Aspens. 307-733-6202 pg 29 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 PINEDALE, WYOMING Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 47 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all HALF MOON LAKE RESORT offers fine dining, and the only paddle restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 37 types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 44 wheeler in Wyoming. Enjoy nightly dinner cruises on the Wind River TETON VILLAGE Hotels & condominiums. 307-733-2292 pg 47 Queen, or visit our newly remodeled restaurant and enjoy SNOW KING RESORT Groups of 10-900. Board meetings to moun- PINEDALE, WYOMING unmatched cuisine. 800-237-9138, 307-367-6373 pg 51 tain-top bar-b-ques. 307-733-5200 pg 45 HALF MOON LAKE RESORT There is no better place to enjoy a WIND RIVER QUEEN At Half Moon Lake Resort step aboard TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE Luxury full-service resort hotel located Western experience. Sitting on the bank of Half Moon Lake, HMLR Wyoming’s only paddle wheeler & enjoy the most unique dining slopeside at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Cascade Restaurant & offers all the comfortable amenities, plus all the fun and relaxation experience the West has to offer. Enjoy a nightly dinner cruise on fireside bar on-site. Indoor/outdoor pools, hot tubs & full service spa. that goes with a Western vacation. 800-237-9138, 307-367-6373 pg 51 the lake while gentle waves lap against the stern. 800-237-9138, Banquets & catering available. 307-734-7111 pg 43 TETON COURT MOTEL One block north of Pine on Magnolia St & 307-367-6373 pg 51 TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Perfect out-of-the-way venue Sublette, 18 units, kitchens, queen beds, handicap access, computer for winter or summer weddings. ports on phones. 307-367-4317 pg 50 Indoor and Outdoor reception sites, restaurant, bar, banquet and cater- WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA ing available. Great Teton Views. DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, with pool & [email protected], 1-800- 100’ waterslide, only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 543-2847. pg 49 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 55 PINEDALE, WYOMING BREW PUBS, LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES HALF MOON LAKE RESORT is per- fect for a small wedding alongside a JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING mountain stream, on a ridge over- CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 18 years. Bar menu available, looking the mountains, or a lone- 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7pm, 6 microbrews, premium well drinks & wine-by- some beach on an alpine lake. We the-glass. Lunch & dinner. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-732-3279 pg 64 access these areas by horseback & provide a truly unique ceremony. CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Located slopeside in the Teton 800-237-9138, 307-367-6373 pg 51 Mountain Lodge at Teton Village. Aprés ski specials and cozy fireside bar. Banquets & catering available. 307-732-6932 pg 43 WEST YELLOWSTONE, 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain. MONTANA Open nightly with alfresco & rooftop dining. Live music. Enjoy aged DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 35 West Yellowstone, with pool & 100’ SHADY LADY SALOON A casual place to have a drink. A showcase of waterslide, only 3 blocks from regional entertainment. Snow King Resort. 307-733-5200 pg 45 Yellowstone National Park. 301 TETON VILLAGE Saloons, lounges, liquor stores, in Teton Village. 732- Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 3618 pg 47 pg 55

60 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 CLOTHING GIFTS OUTDOOR SHOPS REAL ESTATE APPAREL CODY, WYOMING SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 41 DUBOIS, WYOMING WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 58 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING ALASKA FUR COMPANY Wide selection of fine furs, shearlings, leathers, and fur accessories for all occasion to traditional to high fashion. Family owned & operated since 1964. No middleman markup. 135 N. Cache. 307-733-4772 pg 5 JACKSON BOOTLEGGER One of the largest independent shoe stores west of Denver. Offering a unique shopping experience with an extensive selection of footwear from hiking to fashion. On the south side of the Town Square. 307-733- 6207 pg 24 JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The West’s finest selection of fish- PINEDALE, WYOMING plete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website cat- ing gear, outdoor clothing, backpacking supplies, footwear, North alogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories Face Summit Shop, on the Town Square & in Teton Village. 307-733- Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 23 3270 pg 27 for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 South Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, barndoordesign.com pg 50 TETON VALLEY-VICTOR, IDAHO JACKSON HOLE CLOTHIERS Exciting store with the best in con- temporary Western apparel for men and women. Double D WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry

Photos: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy / focusproductions.com & Wade Photos: Bob Woodall Ranchwear, Stubbs Collection, Acorn shirts from Italy. Exciting and BUFFALO COUNTRY STORE The Old West store, with denim shirts, Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even colorful cowboy boots. Open until 9pm, on the Jackson Town artwork lazed on leather, Old Western pictures, barn wood frames. the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 53 Square. 307-733-7211. pg 7 406-646-7330, [email protected]. 32 Canyon Street. JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is pg 55 PHOTOGRAPHY your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, BEADLES Natural health goods, foods, beads, yarns, hand-made accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike gifts made by local Artisans plus global items. In the Madison JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 47 Crossing Bldg, just off Hwy 20, 406-646-7606 pg 55 DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Friendly TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson’s mountain recreation specialists VISITOR’S BUREAU GIFT SHOP Come in and browse our large & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film and digital processing. 60 So. Cache, featuring a large selection of outdoor apparel, shoes & equipment selection of gifts, souvenirs, jewelry, home decor, rocks, t-shirts, can- across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 13 & 63 for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboarding. 307-733- dles, Montana made items & more. Something for almost everyone. FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson 2181 pg 31 107 Canyon St 406-646-7831 pg 55 Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com JEWELRY WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photog- JACKSON, WYOMING raphy of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney 307-733-8877 pg 16 DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Christopher Corbett Opals & Diamonds featured exclusively. Jackson’s finest jewelry experience since 1976. This talented team specializes in originals, featuring elk ivory, REAL ESTATE unique gems, wedding sets, Tetons & wildlife. Gaslight Alley. Just JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING of the town square. 307-733-2259 pg 3 & 63 TETON VILLAGE REALTY To browse our listings or search for other HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of jewelry designers real estate opportunities in the greater Jackson Hole area, please since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original Teton pendants visit our website at www.tetonvillagerealty.com. Teton Village & rings. Authorized dealers for Cartier, Tag Heuer, Chopard & Baume’ Realty’s team of effective real estate professionals can be reached & Mercier watches. 80 Center St. 307-733-5599 pg 4 any time toll free at 866-732-1801. pg 2 JC JEWELERS Jackson’s premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in cus- TETON VILLAGE REALTY–JACK DELAY, ASSOCIATE BROKER “Your tom design in precious metals and fine gems. Western designs include Ace in The Hole” Specializing in Buyer representation with 5 star serv- elk ivory jewelry and charms. In the landmark log cabin at 132 N. ice. Offices located in town of Jackson and Teton Village. 307-690- Cache. 307-733-5933 pg 7 8404, jack@tetonvillagerealty pg 2 & 25 OUTDOOR SHOPS PINEDALE, WYOMING HIGH MOUNTAIN REAL ESTATE “Turning dreams into Wyoming CODY, WYOMING Realty” Full time professional realtors, commercial, residential, ranch- SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of es, email: [email protected] 877.367.4600 pg 12 outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 41 BOOKS, MUSIC & INTERNET ACCESS DUBOIS, WYOMING WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store DUBOIS, WYOMING that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting TWO OCEAN BOOK Central Wyoming’s most exciting collection of & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 58 Western books; Cowboy poetry; Women’s Western essays & journals; WIND RIVER GEAR Find books, maps, trekking poles, tents, sleep- Native American & regional authors; maps & field guides. 128 ing bags, camp gear, technical clothing, footware, GPS, compasses, Ramshorn, www.cowboybookseller.com 307-455-3554 pg 58 rain gear, casual wear, optics, even canine gear for your best friend. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 58 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 44 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#61. GRIZZLY INTERNET, INC. Come enjoy the best internet connection 307-733-5335 pg 35 “West” has to offer Wi-Fi access or use our computers hourly to month- JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is ly rates available. 11 Madison Ave. www.wyellowstone.com 406-646- your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, 7006 pg 55 accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687. pg 47 GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIES JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP & NORTH FACE SUMMIT SHOP The West’s finest selection of fishing gear, outdoor clothing, back- JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING packing supplies, footwear, on the Town Square & in Teton TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Village. 307-733-3270 pg 27 Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 47 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater Rafting, canoe & JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, kayak instruction. Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. Full jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ, gift service paddle sports specialty shop. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733- packs available, WE SHIP!. A must stop when in Jackson, Free 9999 pg 19 Samples Located in Eagle Village @ SMITH’S Plaza, 5 min. south of TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Specializing in mountain recreation town www.buybuffalomeat.com 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. pg 45 equipment including apparel & shoes for hiking, biking & frisbee JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The Official logo store of the golf, not to mention it’s winter all summer long for skiers & snow- Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts boarders. Rentals & repairs. 307-733-2181 pg 31 on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 47 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most com-

www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 61 • CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE • URVN WSBR • NK IE • RSVNR • OWTEPS • RN EOS ODFIHU PHSA• BUFFALO B • PAHASKA DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER GROS VENTRE TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL

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o w e Y F L e l s ake R l FOREST ’ Sn iver o y South Entrance w r s n Flagg Ranch t e o H r n ive e ls R BRIDGER-TETON Fal 89 R Mountain i Ashton NATIONAL FOREST A v Grand b e s r a ek r 50 Teton re o Country 27 c C k ifi a r ac n Rive National P M Teto o Magazine 32 u 33 55 Park n Jackson Yellowstone Outfitters t a www.focusproductions.com e Lake Wagons West g er i Rexburg falo Riv n Tetonia Grand n Moran Buf a s Targhee R Liegh Lake Togwotee Mountain Lodge Resort n o Jenny Togwotee Pass SCALE: 1 inch = approx: 20 miles t U e Lake 26 9,658 feet p T 89 55 pe 55 Moose 191 BRIDGER-TETON Brooks Lake r Driggs NATIONAL FOREST W W in in Approximate milage between red dots Teton Science School d d 33 Jackson Hole R R Mountain Resort iv iv Gro er e Teton Village s 26 r Kelly Slide V V INFORMATION Teton Valley a en Triangle C Ranch 287 l 31 Lake tre le R y BOZEMAN, MONTANA Westbank Anglers G iv Victor e 406-586-5421 31 Westside Store r r Dubois Westside Wine & Spirits o s d CODY, WYOMING V Union Pass a 22 390 o 307-587-2297 21 e R Flat Creek Inn n C Wilson s DUBOIS, WYOMING t s o Torrey 23 r a n e P 307-455-2556 To Idaho Falls To Teton Pass Jackson t Lake n i M n To BRIDGER • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE HOBACK ILL o Trial GARDINER, MONTANA Swan Valley Granite Hot o i e Riverton

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n v C v JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING i Junction e s Green i d it n R River 307-733-3316 e H a Upper Green River Valley o r n b G Lakes LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 26 ac e k e 406-222-0850 89 R r IDAHO iv W

n e G MEETEESE, WYOMING 23 yo r i Gannett Pk. Can 352 n ▲ iver d 13,804 ft. 307-868-2423 Palisades Res. ake R 189 R PINEDALE, WYOMING Sn i Highest Point Alpine Junction 191 v In Wyoming 307-367-2242 BRIDGER-TETON e 53 New Fork Lakes r POWELL, WYOMING M 307-754-3494 CARIBOU NATIONAL FOREST o RED LODGE, MONTANA 33 Fremont u NATIONAL G Willow Lake Lake n 406-446-1718 r t e WYOMING TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO a FOREST S y 89 s Soda Lake i 208-354-2500 t n a R Half Moon s WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA r i Lake Resort v V e 406-646-7701

a r Half Moon Lake

l Burnt WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL l e 11 Lake 800-645-6233 y 189 Pinedale Boulder Lake YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK Afton 191 307-344-7381 T o Big Piney & Evanston Map design by Bob Woodall T o Evanston Copyright 2006-Focus Productions T o Rock Springs

• MADISON MORAN FIREHOLE GIBBON TEEWINOT • SNOW ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • KING NORRIS • GALL • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •

62 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 • First Digital ELPH to feature Canon’s Image Stabilizer Technology for steady • Exceptional digital SLR with exclusive 8.2 Megapixel Canon CMOS Sensor and Digic II Image Processor long-zoom shooting. • Canon’s first waterproof IS Binocular. • User-selectable high-speed and low-speed continuous shooting at • High-quality 6.0 Megapixel CCD, 4xOptical Zoom lens and elegant tri-color • High performance L Lenses with 2 Ultra-low Dispersion (UD) elements on 5 fps or 3 fps - up to 30 (JPEG) or 11 (RAW) or 9 (RAW+JPEG) consecutive Perpetual Curve design. each side. frames when set at 5 fps and fast 0.15-second startup time. • New ISO 800 reduces image blur and expands low-light shooting ability. • Doublet Field Flattener Lenses for sharp, distortion-free images edge-to-edge. • Large 2.5 inch LCD monitor that can be viewed at extreme angles up to 170°. • Dig!c II Image Processor and iSAPS Technology for superior image quality, • Bright field-of-view from a 4.2mm exit pupil diameter, the largest of any • New and improved features: Picture Style for superior command of in-camera faster operation and lower power consumption. Canon IS Binocular. color, contrast and sharpness, Spot Metering and a shutter durability of • 16.9 Widescreen mode for full-screen viewing on widescreen TVs and • Wide angle rating from an apparent angle-of-view of 65º. computer monitors. approximately 100,000 cycles. • One touch IS usage. • Fast Frame Rate Movie Mode for shooting high-quality movies up to 60 fps • Impressive 9-point Wide-area AF with a dual precision sensor at the center. QVGA (320 x 240). • Fully compatible with all EF and EF-S Lenses and a wide range of EOS System • Includes Canon 1-year international warranty/registration card and 2-year extended USA warranty. • Includes Canon U.S.A., Inc. 1-year Limited Warranty/Registration Card. accessories. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers.

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www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 63 ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 307-733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING www.cadillac-grille.com [email protected] NEXT TO BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS LARGE GROUPS AND PARTIES ARE WELCOME Photo: © Latham Jenkins/jhstock.com Food photo: David Swift, Swiftio.com