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2 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 7 ,9Ê", - >Ã} ÌÊiÞ ÜÌÜÊ>VÃÊi ÎäÇÊÇÎΰÓÓx ÜÜÜ°`>à iiÞ°V vJ`>à iiÞ°V My exit from life in the fast lane.
My Homewood.
Whether you are exploring Jackson for business or pleasure, you will love staying with us! At Homewood Suites by Hilton® in Jackson, just off the Town Square, you'll find two-room suites* with a gas fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, robes, indoor pool, whirlpool and complimentary hot breakfast. Just visit homewoodsuites.com or call 1-800-CALL-HOME®. MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME.™ Visit Body & Soul Spa & Salon Inside Homewood Suites by Hilton 260 N. Millward St, Jackson, WY 83001 260 N. Millward St Group & Wedding Sales please Jackson, WY 83001 call 307-739-0808 ext 1101 307-739-0808 or email: [email protected] [email protected] jacksonwy.homewoodsuites.com
*Some hotels have studio suites. †Monday through Thursday, subject to state and local laws. ©2006 Hilton Hospitality, Inc.
4 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Sheared beaver & Finnish raccoon as seen in VOGUE Magazine
Mink • Sheared Beaver • Chinchilla • Silver Fox • Lynx • Coyote • Arctic Timberwolf • Black Glama • Persian Lamb Highest Quality, Largest Selection & Lowest Prices—Guaranteed! 135 North Cache Avenue in Jackson (307) 733-4772 Open 10am to 8pm EExplorexplore On the Cover: Kit DesLauriers and the north MOUNTAIN COUNTRY face of the Grand Teton; Photo by Wade McKoy
Contents Photos: Clockwise from top left: paddling on Jackson Lake; buffalo (American bison); the rodeo’s Grand Entree; hiking through fireweed; mountain biking single-track; releasing a cutthroat trout
Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Direction & Ad Design: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: JACKSON HOLE Ike Faust, 307-733-6995,
WEST YELLOWSTONE
Photos: Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall—FPI Photos: Wade Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 CODY & PINEDALE NATURE RECREATION Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 8 Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem 14 Boating the Snake River DUBOIS Suzan Moulton, 307-733-6995 28 Outdoor Comfort & Safety 18 Regional Boating Info.
56 Yellowstone IMAX Theater 20 Fishing Copyright 2006 by FPI (Focus 57 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center 26 Climbing Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 28 Hiking 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be TOWNS 32 Mountain Biking reproduced in any form with- 38 Cody 34 Multi-use Pathways out written permission from 42 Jackson 36 Rodeos the publishers. Mountain Country is a free vis- 46 Teton Village 44 Snow King Resort itors guide published annually 50 Pinedale 46 Jackson Hole Resort in May and distributed all sum- mer at hundreds of locations 53 Victor & Driggs 48 Horseback Riding throughout Jackson Hole, 54 West Yellowstone 56 Yellowstone In Winter Cody, and other regional com- munities, and at information 58 Dubois centers throughout the region. To receive a copy in the mail, MAPS & send $5 to Mountain Country, MUSEUMS P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, 40 Buffalo Bill Historical Center DIRECTORIES Wyoming 83001. 52 Museum of the Mountain Man 59 Business Directory Our Web site 62 Greater Yellowstone Map focusproductions.com displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining TRIBUTE Guide and our winter travelers 30 Doug Coombs Lived guide, the Jackson Hole Skier. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
OPEN DAILY LOCATED ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE TOWN SQUARE JACKSON, WYOMING jhclothiers.com 307-733-7211 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 7 These Lands Are Your Lands What to do—or not do—on your vacation in Teton country?
by Bert Raynes You’re on vacation, going to visit your national parks and forests, to see sights you’ve read about, per- haps visited before, taking the fam- ily for fun and memories. Great! Have a wonderful time. It’s unlikely you’ve given much consideration to the varying,occasionally dra- conian, often confusing, outmoded and conflicting laws, ordinances, or customs of the various states, counties, towns—let alone public lands—you will pass into and through.You’re far more concerned with lodging,places to eat,and keeping to your agenda and budget. Waterfowl like this cinnamon teal duck (above) find plenty of prime habitat in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem; The hike to Table Besides,you’re a law-abiding citizen,exemplary in every way.You respect your Mountain in the Jedediah Smith Wilderness (right) provides high-alti- fellow man, never drive more than five mph over any speed limit, park only in tude vistas on the Tetons’ western slope. A lone horseman on Togwotee designated areas, don’t litter (why, you even recycle), respect wildlife, obey all Pass (below) gives his mount a break in the alpine tundra around instructions and cautions.You even are considerate of others who are lost in their Younts Peak and the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature; Wade McKoy; Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch / Triangle McKoy; Bob Woodall by Nature; Wade Photographers, clockwise from top: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild 8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006
As important as it is to“ the nation, and indeed to the world, the GYE is the acciden- tal result of some 130 years of pioneering and tentative establishments of public lands.”
A cow moose shows her calf how to feed on aquatic plants; The roadways of Antelope Flats pro- vide a stunning setting for cyclists seeking a low-traffic ride; Wildflowers like this yellow gla- cier lily beg vacationers to slow down the pace and take notice; Sea kayaks give Jackson Lake paddlers a water-line view of the Tetons and are an excellent craft for weathering the storm when these placid waters become wind-whipped. appreciation of natural wonders. Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE)—which you may This black bear cub created a And yet, and yet…This is a nation of laws, as never had known about before. It includes two roadside bear-jam several the well-known expression has it. True—but not of national parks,seven national forests,numerous sec- weeks last fall while it fed on uniform laws. Inevitably, every elected official, tions of Bureau of Land Management lands. There service berries in Teton park. These tiny shooting stars greet every regulator, every enforcer always wants to get are wilderness areas, roadless areas, state lands too. vacationers with their beauty; into the act.As one result, national parks have rules As important as it is to the nation, and indeed to the Ross Lake south of Dubois, one of and regulations that differ from those in national world, the GYE is the accidental result of some 130 thousands in the Wind River forests, from wilderness areas, from national years of pioneering and tentative establishments of Range, offers horseman wildlife refuges, from adjoining political entities public lands. The various Acts involved politics and Cameron Garnick a remote (states, counties, cities, and towns), and of course, controversies, to put the best face on all succeeding perch for contemplating the private lands. years of both enlightenment and of resistance. rugged beauty of Torrey Creek. You’ve arrived in what is known as the Greater The GYE is large (18 million acres) and largely ade McKoy (bike, boat) Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch (flower, seated horseman); W C Ranch (flower, / Triangle by Nature (moose, bear); Bob Woodall Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 11 unfenced.The outlines of public lands don’t often fol- National Park. It is the world’s first national park, low natural contours but, instead, follow arbitrary established in 1872, and thus it’s not surprising that lines of separation. Nature abhors straight lines, but its operation and supervision had to evolve through surveyors don’t,and man doesn’t.How could you,you trial,error,and refinement.Yellowstone National Park there on your carefree vacation, know or fret about was 44 years old, in fact, before the National Park
Scenic how you might—in all innocence, mind you—com- Service was established, charged with carrying out mit some infraction of some regulation or law? the original guidelines of the 1872 Act.The particular After all, it’s YOUR land, your public land! Why passage of most interest is as follows: worry? Because ignorance of the law is no excuse. The Service thus established shall promote More than just another well-known expression,it’s and regulate the use of Federal areas true.And because it’s yours, you need to care for and known as parks, monuments, and reserva- respect it. tions hereinafter specified by such means But it really is up to you to know.If you’re going to Serene and measures as conform to the fundamen- have a picnic, say, in this or that inviting forest glade, tal purpose as to conserve the scenery and whether it’s in a national park or national forest, whether you can build a fire or not ever, or in a given the natural and historic objects and the dry year. Whether you can erect your tent and wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoy- overnight or not.Whether you can fish or not,or keep ment of the same in such a manner and any fish or not. It’s up to you to know and to find out. such means as will leave them unimpaired Is it permissible to bike on this path or that? To for the enjoyment of future generations.
Sincere boat on this water or that? Must you always keep your Please notice that these are not words that sug- cat or dog on a leash,and even then not take it on any gest that our national parks and monuments and his- trail or off paved roads? May you pick flowers in toric sites,etc.,etc.,shall become commercial amuse- Cynde Wilson, Broker GRI Yellowstone or Grand Teton National parks? (No.) In ment parks. Quite the opposite. Amenities found in Jay Fear, Kathryn Jackson, Travis Bing, the forest? (Yes, but don’t overdo.) If you find an city parks or Walt Disney’s are not to be expected.Not
High Mountain Real Estate High Mountain Real Associate Brokers James Thomas, Sales Associate Indian artifact what should you do? (Don’t touch it; to be desired. report it to an official of the jurisdiction you found it The mission of the National Wildlife Refuge Pinedale, Wyoming in.) Cut a tree? Anywhere? (Not in a park or wilder- System is to manage lands and waters for the conser- Toll Free: 877.367.4600 ness, but in a forest with a permit.) vation,management,and,where appropriate,restora- Website: www.highmtn.com There are many reasons for the varying protec- tion of the fish, wildlife, and plant resources...for the Email: [email protected] tions offered to each differently designated public benefit of present and future generations of land. Each has separate purposes. Take Yellowstone Americans. Wildlife Expeditionsmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Wildlife Discovery Expedition A fascinating full-day among the animals with an expert wildlife biologist. Sunrise and Sunset Expeditions A family-friendly four-hour introduction to western wildlife and their spectacular habitat. Old Faithful Expedition Explore the wildlife, scenery WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS and history of Yellowstone PO Box 7580 • Jackson WY 83002 National Park. 1.888.945.3567 Multi-Day Expeditions www.wildlifeexpeditions.org Wolves and Bears Expeditions Great Parks Expeditions 307.733.2623 Winter Wolves of Yellowstone Year-round expeditions Customized and private trips also!
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FASTER SMARTER STRONGER
Lands in the National Wilderness Preservation violated with obvious long-term and permanent System are administered to leave them unimpaired deleterious effects upon all of those directives. for future use and enjoyment as wilderness. Use is The management of roadless areas is confusion. NEW! ™ strictly regulated. These are areas within the National Forest system Nikon® D200 Set National forests are to be managed both for mul- that remained, as of 1999, largely untouched by Faster when it counts. tiple use and also for sustained yield of the products human intervention.Unfortunately,by 2006 the Chief Rugged where it matters. and services of the forests. Use, therefore, is less of the U.S.Forest Service was looking at certain road- High-performance 10.2 Megapixel CCD Sensor, coupled with Nikon's exclusive restricted than on other public lands, except perhaps less areas for timber harvest. When you get home, image processing engine Bureau of Land Management lands. dear traveler, please write your Congressman. Set includes: D200 camera body MH-18a Quick Charger, EN-EL3e Although the Congressional declaration of policy Li-ion Rechargeable Battery and Nikon PictureProject™ software LENS SOLD SEPARATELY required that BLM lands be managed in a manner But, you’re on vacation.Whether this is your first “that will protect the quality of scientific, scenic, his- visit to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks Optically Advanced torical,ecological,environmental,air and atmos- or to the Shoshone National Forest or to any of the pheric, water resource, and archeological values....,”a gateway communities bordering on the Greater too short drive to the Red Desert area south of the Yellowstone Ecosystem, you will take home memo- Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem will demonstrate all ries of the glorious natural wonders preserved for too vividly that Congress’s original intent is being you in your public lands. Enjoy one of the world’s largest arrays of thermal features in Yellowstone, the world’s largest cold- water geyser near Afton,Wyoming, the 8x32 Premier SE Series impressive mountains throughout • High resolution, fully multicoated optics • Nikon's superior technology (with special attention to the Grand • BaK4 high index prisms Tetons), the several national wildlife • Long eye relief for eyeglass wearers refuges,the scenic rivers,the high-alti- We are a full line camera store. tude Lake Yellowstone, the national forests. We carry the full line Enjoy seeing wildlife, much of it at of Nikon Binoculars. ease where hunting is not allowed. Enjoy fishing and boating on placid lakes or on fast-flowing rivers. Enjoy walking, hiking, or climbing.Smell the flowers. 307-733-3831 60 S. Cache Street Bert Raynes writes a weekly col- umn in the Jackson Hole News & Jackson, WY 83001 Guide. He has penned five publica- Open Daily tions covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His latest book, Nikon Authorized Dealer Winter Wings,joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiv- ing well-deserved, wide acclaim.
Top: Sandhill cranes sometimes flock by the hundreds and have a wingspan of six-to-seven feet. 25-year limited warranty included on all Nikon binoculars. Left: A hooked cutthroat trout All Nikon products include Nikon Inc. USA limited warranty. contemplates its next run against ©2006 Nikon Inc.
Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature (cranes); Wade McKoy (fish) by Nature (cranes); Wade Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild this catch-and-release fisherman. www.nikondigital.com
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 13 White Water, Blue Water The heart and pulse of Jackson Hole courses through its Snake River
by Ed Bushnell he Tetons may be the big scenic draw to the area, but the Snake River is Jackson Hole’s Tproverbial heart. All that we love about Jackson Hole—its history, its wildlife, and its beauty —can be appreciated and experienced from the river. More accessible than the lofty mountain peaks, the Snake plays host to hundreds of thousands of recre- ation-seekers every year—be they rafters, fishers, kayakers, even sailors—as it meanders the 100 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone National Park to where it exits the Snake River Canyon. Most people think of white-water rafting when they think of the Snake River, and white-water trips are indeed the most popular way for tourists to expe- rience what early trappers to the area called the “Mad River.” But the Snake travels many miles and offers visitors and locals boatloads of opportunities to enjoy the river before it enters the famous white- water stretch just south of Jackson Hole. The Snake’s headwaters are located in the Absaroka Mountains, right on the border between southeastern Yellowstone National Park and the Teton Wilderness. The fledgling river is off-limits When it’s breezy, boating on Jackson Lake includes windsurfing (top, boardsailor: for floaters (as are all rivers in Yellowstone), but Doug Coombs); Lunch Counter rapid, known to contain one of the West’s best surfing only the heartiest of boaters would attempt the waves, thrills kayakers (above) and rafters (top right). The flat-water section from Pacific Creek to Deadman’s Landing (bottom right) doubles as the hot-spot for scenic cascading stream as it courses toward the park’s fishing and lazy floating. southern boundary. Shortly after crossing out of Yellowstone Park,the
14 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 More accessible than the lofty mountain peaks, the Snake plays host to hundreds of thousands of recreation-seekers every year—be they rafters, fishers, kayak- ers, even sailors—as it meanders the 100 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone National Park to where it exits the Snake River Canyon. Photographers: Bob Woodall (boating); Wade McKoy (windsurfing) (boating); Wade Photographers: Bob Woodall
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 15 river descends into the short, narrow Flagg Canyon. see fit to put on the water. Several marinas in Grand So much more than This section of river varies greatly in difficulty Teton National Park rent boats to visitors. Big Macs® and depending on the season, from raging white-water in At Jackson Lake dam, the river begins a 25-mile the spring runoff season to the low,lazy waters of late journey through the southern half of Grand Teton world famous fries. summer.Lulled by the undemanding trip one August, National Park. This is the heart of Jackson Hole, this author returned to float this section the following offering the best views and wildlife-viewing oppor- Come in and see spring and chose to climb the near-sheer walls with tunities in the area. Joan Anzelmo, spokeswoman for his kayak in order to exit the canyon rather than con- the park, said a float trip through the park is an what’s new! tinue through a churning hell of reversals, undercut excellent way for a park visitor to experience the ledges, and whirlpools. Flagg Canyon is best experi- beauty of the Tetons. enced by a guided trip so visitors can avoid sharing “It’s like floating through a Thomas Moran paint- the author’s experience. ing,”Anzelmo said. Several miles below Flagg Canyon, the river flows But, she added, the river can be dangerous. into Jackson Lake.The lake is a popular place for peo- Although there is no significant white-water on the ple to enjoy the Tetons from motorboat, sailboat, stretch from Jackson Lake Dam to Moose, frequent Premium Chicken Sandwiches windsurfers, sea kayak, or any other craft one might strainers (obstacles such as downed trees hidden just featuring Ranch BLT, Club, Classic & Spicy underwater) and braided channels make navigating Chicken Selects® • Premium Salads the river challenging and dangerous to the inexperi- Fruit&Walnut Salad enced boater. “It appears at times to be a tranquil river, but it’s Fruit&Yogurt Parfaits full of surprises,”she warned. Anzelmo urged inexperienced river users to take Fresh Baked Cookies & Great Desserts any one of the numerous commercial scenic float ® McGriddles , Bagels and trips through the park. A guided trip allows the visi- Platters at Breakfast tor to focus on the mountains and the wildlife, while Open & serving your favorites the guide figures out where to go. Park Ranger Marty Meyer said participants in 5:30 am to midnight everyday park river trips are apt to spot eagles, otters, moose, Free Wi-Fi with purchase trumpeter swans, and the occasional bison among 1110 Broadway @ Hwy 22 Since 1964 the numerous representatives of the area wildlife.The 307-733-4410 • 1-800-358-8184 best time to see wildlife along the river is in the early Jackson Hole, WY • 307-733-7444 www.sandswhitewater.com mornings or the evenings. For experienced boaters eager to float the Snake on their own, though, Meyer suggested the five-mile stretch between Jackson Lake Dam and Pacific Creek. ILD by ATURE Not only is this the easiest section of river in the park, W N it’s also one of the best sections for wildlife viewing. To bring a private craft on the Snake River (or any GALLERY other body of water) in Grand Teton National Park, visitors must first obtain a boat permit ($10 for the week, $20 for the season for non-motorized boats) from the visitor’s center.Meyer cautions private users to always treat the river seriously, and always wear floatation devices. After flowing out of the park, the river makes its way through the southern half of Jackson Hole, with calm waters prevailing through most of this 40-mile stretch. Several companies offer scenic float trips on different sections of this part of the river. Since this part of the Snake passes only a few miles from down- town Jackson, these trips should appeal to visitors who want to experience the river but who only have a few hours to spare. After the river leaves Jackson Hole, it enters the Snake River Canyon. As the mountains close in, the river grows more turbulent, passing through an eight-mile section of Class III (intermediate) white- water. This is the popular white-water run, and over half a dozen companies provide commercial trips “First Kiss” through the canyon. Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by The first half of the white-water section contains Henry H. Holdsworth a series of easy-to-moderate rapids,including Station Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards Creek Drop, the S-Turns, and Cutbanks.Although not 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 technically difficult, these rapids harbor thrilling www.wildbynaturegallery.com wave trains that provide rafters and kayakers with a
16 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Wade McKoy photos Wade
necessary warm-up for the bigger water below. In the high water of spring,many of these rapids run together,offering little respite for a two-mile stretch. This section of the river also contains the best “surfing”waves and other “play spots”for kayakers. The behemoth rapids of the river, Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter,surprise boaters with a one-two punch after a long calm stretch marking the midpoint of the white-water journey.Kahuna consists of two giant waves: the first wave sends boaters’ stom- achs flipping while they drop into the deep trough of the wave and over the high crest; the second wave slams into the disorient- ed boaters. Lunch counter follows immediately, and offers waves as high as 10 feet where rock walls pinch the river into the run’s narrowest section. Dropping into Lunch Counter and spying that first wave towering above their heads gives rafters and kayakers as big a thrill as they could experience on the world’s biggest roller coasters. Several of the most notable rapids on the river come near the end of the white-water run. Rope Rapid consists of a long, fun wave-train, starting with the powerful Hollywood Curl which, if hit correctly,will wash over the front of a raft,soaking its passen- gers (who are already wet from Kahuna and Lunch Counter). Champagne is a short pushy froth of waves marking an underwa- ter waterfall. The name of the rapid comes from the millions of air bubbles that rise to the river’s surface in the calm waters fol- A sub-species unique to these waters, the fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout lowing the rapid. (above) thrives with the help of good fishing management and habitat rehabilitation. As a general rule, the Snake is more challenging earlier in the Lupine (top) flourish in meadows and woodlands near the riverbank. year. The water is higher and faster, continued page 19
Wild, Wet Fun in Jackson! Enjoy your adventure on the Snake River with one of these trips . . . The 8-Mile Whitewater Small Boats... BIG ACTION The 8-Mile Whitewater with Boatman’s Breakfast The 8-Mile Whitewater with Riverside BBQ Dinner
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800-458-(RAFT) 307-733-6203 • www.mad-river.com [email protected] MEET HERE
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 17 Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall The West Coast meets the Wild West as surfers tackle the Snake’s Lunch Counter rapids (above). This immature bald eagle (right), and scores of its brethren who also nest along this scenic stream, prize the river for its fish. Western Waterways GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK WEST OF YELLOWSTONE Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft,except on Jackson and Jenny West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis lakes, where powerboats are allowed. Launches along the Snake River access Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon, and idyllic floating to its confluence with a variety of waters. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Info: (307) the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-2337. 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small power boats can be rented at Everything from power boats to paddle craft can put in on four lakes near Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. West Yellowstone. Outboards can be rented at Hebgen Lake, while paddle boats and motorized “personal water craft”are available at Henry’s Lake. Info: BRIDGER TETON NATIONAL FOREST (406) 646-7701. Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self registration, while not GREEN RIVER & PINEDALE AREA required, is available at West Table. Info: (307) 739-5444. The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fish- ing. For information call (307) 367-4352. Fremont and Half Moon lakes, near Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challeng- Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, ing rapids. Call (307) 739-5400 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sail- CODY & THE NORTH FORK boats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the sailboats). Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK River info: (307) 527-7125, hiking and camping info: (307) 527-6921. In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, and sail- Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill boats are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes,but only paddle boats on Shoshone Reservoir, west of Cody.Info: (307) 587-9227. Lake.All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Info: (307) 344-7381.
18 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 continued from page 17 allowing for big rapids in the white-water sections and swirling currents in the normally calm sections. The threat of strainers increases of course, and the fast current makes avoiding these obstacles difficult. The water is very cold; after all, June runoff was fed by May’s snowpack. As the season progresses, the water level drops and the temperature—both air and water—rises, but the river clears and most rapids diminish in size. For all the excitement it provides, the Snake FLAT CREEK INN River Canyon is generally quite safe. However, river users should never take white water lightly: Some “Where quality, service nasty surprises await careless boaters. Two gigantic “holes”—large waves of constantly re-circulating and affordability are one” water—are located on the upper half of the white- water run, Taco Hole and 3 Oar Deal. Both obstacles All rooms complete with could be fatal to boaters who inadvertently enter microwaves, mini-fridge, them,and both are difficult to see from upstream.As coffee maker and free with the rest of the river, inexperienced boaters continental breakfast. should enjoy this section by taking part in a com- mercial trip, and experienced boaters should study Summer & Winter the river before descending it. Packages Available Ed Bushnell is a freelance writer and journalist 1935 N. Hwy 89, 1 mile living in Teton Valley, Idaho. north of town of Jackson 307-733-5276 Nature’s hand in water and wood 800-438-9338 few years ago noted Wyoming angler and eagles working the river, or elk, moose, and deer www.flatcreekinn.com guide A.J. DeRosa, owner of Wooden Boat in the bottomlands. email: [email protected] ARiver Tours, had a revelation. “I realized I Because the trip is private, photographers, Great Rooms at Great Rates could give the non-angling floater the same kind bird watchers, or sightseers—amateur or pro— of personal service and attention that my fly fish- are all afforded the luxury of stopping whenever ers enjoyed,”says DeRosa. they want. DeRosa’s lavish excursions utilize traditional, Typically, the half-day excursions take from 4 A.J. DeRosa’s hand-crafted wooden dories, finished to perfec- to 6 hours and are offered in three formats. The tion by DeRosa and his guides—river-tour evernight trip, though, includes dinner and Wooden Boat experts who are also long-time, year-round locals breakfast and a stay in a teepee that will accom- with an extensive knowledge of river ecology and modate up to six adventurous family members Jackson Hole. looking for that something extra. All other trips River Tours Clients float the scenic 13 miles of the Snake provide a meal appropriate to the time of day.The private river River from the Wilson Bridge to the South Park sunrise tour, for example, serves up a brunch, tour experts Bridge. The tour’s focus: wildlife, flora, riparian while the sunset tour provides hors d’ oeuvres— since 1978 habitat, the river land’s majestic scenery—what- and passengers may bring along their own adult ever the clients are most interested in. The Snake beverage. A gourmet meal, complete with can- is home to a diverse array of birds and mammals, dles, tops off the romantic, evening dinner float. and it’s not uncommon to see osprey and bald — Bob Woodall
• Yellowstone Sea Kayaking Tours • Whitewater Duckie Trips • Guided Fishing Trips • Lessons, Sales, Rentals
Located in downtown Jackson Hole 732-BOAT (2628) 307-733-9999 • 800-KAYAK-01 (800-529-2501) • www.snakeriverkayak.com www.woodboattours.com www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 19 Photos: left and bottom right—Wade McKoy; top right—Bob Woodall What Lies Beneath
There’s only one catch to catching the fishing habit—the fish aren’t the only Trout fishing the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem things that get hooked.
by Paul Bruun ishermen are a funny bunch. No levels at an acceptable level. But winter than in recent years, as will natural subject incites more enthusiasm 05/06 has been filled with snow that lakes. Downstream flows that ensue Faround local tackle departments, continued to fall on and off throughout from these conditions will also be tying benches, or fly shops than what this spring. This means that dam-con- enriched by this water surplus. the upcoming water year will offer. trolled reservoirs will be much fuller A good snow year translates into bet- Analyzing potential runoff, dam releas- ter surface forage for wildlife as well as es, and lake and river levels are to fish- more available water for irrigators and ing enthusiasts what Dow Jones and aquatic populations. A lengthy, cold, Standard and Poor’s statistics are to seri- wet winter and spring also may alter ous investors. when ice comes off certain lakes, when The two words that summarize sum- runoffs begin and, ultimately, how mer/fall 2006 water conditions for the water storage and river flows will be Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone managed. Although it sounds complex, Area are VERY GOOD! the resulting higher water in many A prolonged draught in the region reservoirs will allow for cooler flows in was slightly interrupted last year by a major rivers surrounding Yellowstone The big water of the Snake sometimes calls wet spring that kept runoff and water for the smallest of flies. Park and in Idaho and Wyoming.
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 21 This beautiful cutthroat trout (above) was released unharmed, not only insuring the health of the fishery but guaranteeing another thrill for the next catch-and-release angler. Stunning, but ever-changing, side-channel waters of the Snake tempt both anglers and oarsmen (below).
Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and the South Fork of the Snake in Idaho have recently been adjusted to allow year-round fishing.
Because so many superb trout rivers lie within an easy day’s drive from northwest Wyoming, area con- ditions affect a growing number of recreationists. The Army Corps of Engineers and the Bureau of Reclamation, government agencies that oversee major and minor water storage projects, are actually growing more sensitive to fishing and recreational interests when it comes to preparing dam-flow and lake-level regimes. Agriculture will always be the major agency focus. However, inroads recently made by state biologists, nonprofit environmental groups, anglers, boaters, and rafters have improved how and when water is released. River and stream levels vary because drainage runoff timetables differ. Anglers may target low- lying lakes during the early river-runoff periods. Higher-altitude lakes often are not free of ice until sometime in June/July, so plan hikes and pack trips accordingly. 22 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Fishing season dates on waters in states sur- that opens on August 1. An extensive section of this rounding Yellowstone National Park may vary slight- stream meanders through Jackson. ly, but a majority of waters are fishable by Memorial CODY Day weekend. Yellowstone Park requires purchase of This East Yellowstone Entrance community a fishing permit, available from visitor stations. named for the famous Wild West personality offers a Check park as well as state regulations to avoid variety oflake,reservoir,and stream fishing.Cody waters closed until later dates or covered by special anglers enjoy numerous insect hatches emerging restrictions. from the North Fork of the Shoshone. This popular Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and the South river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir and Fork of the Snake in Idaho have recently been adjust- offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout ed to allow year-round fishing. In Wyoming, the are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be sure to note Snake’s trout harvest season runs from April 1 Wyoming G&F regs. for April 1-July 1 spawning clo- through October 31. Catch-and-release trout fishing sure on portions of river and reservoir. is permitted from November 1 until March 31. For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, In an effort to protect resident native cutthroat Wyoming’s only federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic trout strains from growing rainbow trout intrusion, River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short Idaho biologists have implemented a year-round drive from Cody. catch-and-release regulation on cutthroats in the Located within easy hiking access to the fabulous South Fork of the Snake and a special limit on brown Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilder- trout.The new annual upper-South Fork trout season ness fishing lakes. Get local fly shop recommenda- encourages the unlimited harvest of rainbows to pro- tions to a variety of high lakes,where cutthroat,gold- tect cutthroat spawning.This regulation is controver- en, and rainbow trout are available to fly and spin sial and some anglers still release rainbows while fishermen after late June. These lakes are excellent others may keep a few. float-tube waters. East and West Newton lakes, a few minute’s drive outside Cody, offer easily accessible Regional Fishing trout opportunity, and a variety of species and tech- Destinations niques may be employed. WEST YELLOWSTONE JACKSON HOLE Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone In addition to its own excellent fisheries, Jackson National Park, this area is the jumping-off point to is surrounded by other great angling destinations. many legendary Western rivers, including the Many visitors base in Jackson and make day-fishing Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, trips outside the valley. Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year-round. The Snake is world headquarters to its own strain of fine- ToTo usus it’sit’s moremore thanthan justjust catchingcatching fish;fish; spotted cutthroat trout and is also the state’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular major attraction fished by most anglers. Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July arrive. Deepwater trolling becomes popular until September, when fish will again be found in shallow- er water. Lake trout or mackinaw that may reach 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep lakes. Lewis and Shoshone, lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone, are excellent brown and lake-trout fisheries that anglers can access from the end of May (depending on weather) through the end of October. Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift it’s about protecting the throughout the summer until mid-September. A environment, preserving the fisheries steep gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best fished by floating. The native cutthroat and ecosystems for future generations. is exceptionally enthusiastic about dry flies and also ClackaCraft is truly dedicated to conservation, our goal chases streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. We have two convenient locations to serve you: Grasshopper fishing in August and September is a is to generate over $100,000 for conservation each cherished part of the Snake’s seasonal anthology. year by partnering with such worthy organizations ClackaCraft of Idaho Falls Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wading such as the Jackson Hole One Fly Foundation, The 2700 N Yellowstone Hwy Idaho Falls, ID 83401 are the Hoback,Gros Ventre,and Buffalo,as well as Henry’s Fork Foundation and Trout Unlimited. 1-800-394-1345 Flat, Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early July. After it Mountain Drift Boats clears in July, the Buffalo fishes well into late 95 W. Center St. Victor, ID 83455 September. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a 208-313-7720 Photos: top—Wade McKoy; bottom—Bob Woodall Photos: top—Wade challenging fly-fishing-only spring creek-like stream www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 23 Gallatin, and more. The eagerly anticipated and During the morning widely acclaimed salmon fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around the calm, trout locally termed Fourth of July. The Firehole,America’s most unusual trout river, “gulpers” cruise between is fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and surface blankets of thermal springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown trout population also flourishes in the tiny “Trico” mayflies, Madison in the park, where excellent mayfly and sipping constantly. caddis hatches thrive until hopper fishing takes over in August. By mid-September, spawning fish from downstream in Hebgen Lake move up into park July. During the morning calm, trout locally termed waters, providing exciting action until park fishing “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny closes in early November. This stone fly casing—a mere shell of both its “Trico” mayflies, sipping constantly.A little later, the Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of former self and the beautiful bug it became— Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies as the the area’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning in mid- signals good times for both fish and angler. trout party hits high gear. The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flourish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides an exceptional range of catch- and-release fishing opportunities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable to watch as the daily trout menu constantly changes. Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursue its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes but from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy success from many beaches and shores along adjacent park roads and parking areas. PINEDALE Lying 75 miles south of Jackson but situated at a higher altitude, this Old West ranching community along the Oregon Trail offers a variety of west-slope hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid Wind River Range and its endless collection of trout-filled lakes. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, where they ulti- Be Prepared Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather condi- tions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest
MERRELL.COM and sturdy rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning, so cease casting dur- ing thunderstorms. Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranch lands and locales that harbor standing snow melt during the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are helpful. Keep a cur- rent aerosol pepper-spray dispenser handy whenever fishing in bear coun- 733-6207 36 EAST BROADWAY ON THE SQUARE try (which is just about everywhere). www.theclogstore.com Remember that bears like to fish, too.
24 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 4UVOOJOH7JFXT -VYVSZ"NFOJUJFT 4MPQFTJEFBU ǰF5FUPO .PVOUBJO -PEHF
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Photos: (left) Bob Woodall; (right) Wade McKoy (right) Wade Photos: (left) Bob Woodall; (0-' '*4) 4,*-*7&
Trout thrive in the crystal clear waters of the Rocky Mountain West.
mately join near the “Nation’s Icebox,” small-boat angling opportunities. Big Piney. SOUTHEASTERN IDAHO High prairie subtly camouflages Giant stoneflies and other excep- exceptional fishing for browns and tional western aquatic insect hatches rainbows in both the Green and small- historically highlight fishing experi- er New Fork. Flowing from the Green ences on the Henry’s and South Fork of River Lakes, the upper Green features the Snake River. Fed by Big Spring and extensive public access areas and Henry’s Lake Outlet, the Henry’s Fork campgrounds. Upstream from the near Last Chance,Idaho,is renowned Warren Bridge, under which the Green for its salmon fly hatch, which begins flows, on U. S. Highway 189/191, are a around Memorial Day.This river’s pro- number of BLM access areas. lific insect hatches attract trout lovers Downstream from here the river is from all over the world who enjoy chal- confined to mostly private lands, dot- lenging its selective rainbows. ted with a few Game and Fish Dept. The South Fork, which begins in 5DUH7HWRQ6SULQJV5DQFK/RW public-access points. Floating is popu- Wyoming and then crosses into Idaho VHHLQVLGHFRYHU lar on both rivers beginning in early above Palisades Reservoir, is the coun- July when they clear.Check local shops try’s largest native-cutthroat and tro- 4QFDJBMJ[JOHJO#VZFS3FQSFTFOUBUJPO for access information. phy brown trout fishery. Despite being The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. such a sizeable river, anglers are fre- i:063"$&*/5)&)0-&w continues to successfully reintroduce quently required to use delicate fishing once-native cutthroat subspecies to skills to fool its abundant fish. Both many Pinedale,Daniel,and Big Piney rivers have local outfitters and fly -DFN'HOD\ tributary streams as well as the shops or may be accessed by Jackson $VVRFLDWH%URNHU Green itself. Hole outfitters. A special angling treat is found in 937HWRQ%RDUGRI 5HDOWRUV Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Paul Bruun has edited several MDFN#WHWRQYLOODJHUHDOW\FRP Wind River foothills. This is home to newspapers, writes the weekly grayling, the unusual trout-like fish “Outdoors” column in the Jackson that wears an extremely large dorsal Hole News & Guide and contributes to fin highlighted with delicate outdoor magazines. He operates his red/purple spotting. Grayling will- 2IÀFHV/RFDWHG2Q7KH own fly-fishing float-trip service, /REE\/HYHO2I 7KH7HWRQ ingly sip small flies and tiny spin- founded the South Fork skiff drift 0RXQWDLQ/RGJH6ORSHVLGHLQ ning lures. Also vehicle-accessible boat company, and served 12 years on 7HWRQ9LOODJH -XVW2II WKH are Soda and Willow lakes, which the Jackson Town Council during his 7RZQ6TXDUH,QWKH+HDUWRI provide excellent float-tube and 33 years in Jackson. 'RZQWRZQ-DFNVRQ
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 25 The Higher You Get Obeying the urge to merge with the mountain
by Tom Turiano
Stephen Koch (above) solos the Lower Exum Direct route on the Grand Teton. Doug Coombs (left) climbs the Grand.
limbers are driven When I look at mountains, I stare at the intrica- cies of distant ridgelines, smooth granite faces, and by a desire to snowfields. My heart begins to beat faster and my Cbecome one with palms begin to sweat as the excitement, trepidation, the scenery. We set our and adventure of past climbing experiences wash over me once again. I make detailed mental notes of sights on a beautiful moun- mountain features as I plan my next climb. tain, start climbing toward Even if you have never climbed, you still might it, and turn around after have felt the urge to merge with the scenery.You may have wondered what it would be like to walk that high reaching the summit to ridge or stand on the apex of that mountain. But look back down to where rather than suppressing that urge, try yielding to it. Consider climbing with one of Jackson Hole’s out- we started. What once was standing mountaineering guide services. a beautiful image viewed A guide will patiently show you the basics of from afar is now sheer movement over rock, snow, and steep mountainous terrain.You’ll also learn rope work, an integral part of beauty viewed from within. mountaineering that includes belaying, rappelling, 26 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 and rope management. Guides will also carefully the state. Gannett, though, is definitely on the screen choose climbing suited to your ability and confi- for guide services. EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES dence levels. Most importantly, they’ll provide that The arresting allure of the Tetons’ peaks doesn’t Explore the VerticalVertical!! outdoor classroom have to be enjoyed where you will apply “When I look at mountains, I stare only from a dis- Learn to Climb the basic skills. tance. Those moun- • Daily Instruction After a day or at the intricacies of distant ridge- taintops await the at Jenny Lake two of practice, you lines, smooth granite faces, and experienced climber & Teton Village might decide that as well as the curi- • Family Activities. climbing just isn’t ous visitor. Teton • Private Guides snowfields. My heart begins to Available for you. More than guides are some of likely, though, you’ll beat faster and my palms begin to the most seasoned Climb the Grand Teton be inspired to join mountain climbers & Famous Teton Peaks.
Greg VonDoersten photos Greg VonDoersten sweat as the excitement, trepida- your guide for in the world. They All Skill Levels - Beginner to Expert ascents of some of tion, and adventure of past climb- can provide safe,no- • One-Day Climbs the Tetons’ more nonsense leadership • Gannett Peak - Wind River Range notable summits, ing experiences wash over me to the best climbing like Baxter’s once again. I make detailed men- this area has to offer. Pinnacle, Symmetry So go ahead,give in Spire, and tal notes of mountain features as I to that urge. Find a Disappointment guide, and be a Reservations 307-733-2297 Peak. And if you plan my next climb.” climber. www.exumguides.com really enjoy the
mountain life—and display adequate aptitude—you Thomas Turiano, 39, has summitted mountains BORN PROFESSIONALLY might even embark on a two-day ascent of the Grand over 1,000 times and is particularly fond of wander- Teton (13,770 feet) or Mount Moran (12,605 feet). ing in the backcountry on foot, on skis, and by raft. For a still bigger shot of adventure in the vast He guides for Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Wyoming wilderness, local guides offer multi-day Hole Alpine Guides and is the author of Teton expeditions to Cirque of the Towers or Gannett Peak Skiing: A History and Guide,and Select Peaks of in the Wind River Mountains. Although it’s off of Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and most tourists’radar screens,Gannett Peak perches 34 Guide (www.selectpeaks.com). Authorized Concession of Grand Teton National Park feet above the Grand, making it the highest point in and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
SET OUT WITH FOOD, RETURN WITH GREAT TALES OF ADVENTURE
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 27 Walking Among Giants Tread softly and carry a big stick by David Swift elcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains. Perhaps you Water. Sip water constantly.You’re probably not accustomed to our higher alti- gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which tudes, so your heart and lungs are working overtime. Constant hydration keeps Wremains well hidden from roadside turnouts. you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not peeing a bit more than usual, Or perhaps you don’t feel much at all—just an urge to wander in the woods, to you’re not drinking enough water. see what the big deal is. In case you’re wondering if they are utilitarian or merely fashionable, No matter how tuned-in or oblivious you feel, you may also have an urge to Camelbacks and similar water packs have become a standard feature amongst seri- “feel free,”to shun encumbrances.Just remember this: they shoot those SUV com- ous roamers. For a day-trip or longer tote one of those handy, light water filters. mercials with an enormous crew, plus the catering van, cropped out of the money Food. Splurge, taking more than you need. Make it real food. shot. In real life you’ll want to hedge against the plethora of possibilities that often Layers. Minimally, carry a windproof shell. Both a pile jacket and a shell precede misadventure. means you’ll enjoy a long picnic on a breezy, exposed ridge. If the shell is water- In order of probability,your bad day will be due to weather,getting lost,crum- proof, your preparation is all the more bombproof. Add a foam butt pad, hat, my planning, overconfidence, bad luck, and/or wildlife. gloves, and bottom layers and suddenly you’re prepared for quite the ordeal. Weather, by far, leads to most epics simply because being wet quickly compli- Space blanket. Yes, the tinfoil look goes in and out of fashion, but come des- cates matters.Wetness causes rapid loss of body heat,disorientation,falls,and lost peration time a space blanket can compensate for your continued page 31 time, which in turn leads to early darkness. Hiking on the west side of the Tetons, where you won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you,is a classic trap.Leave your car under all-blue skies,scram- ble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, gaze around—and you’re under a dark and heavy canopy of impending wetness. Happens all the time. One may quibble at which point a convenience becomes a necessity but things are necessary in roughly this order:
With spectacular views just a short day-hike away, it’s no wonder Grand Teton National Park (right) attracts travelers from around the world. The southern Tetons (above) are com- prised of the Bridger-Teton and Targhee national forests, the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area, and Grand Teton National Park. Photos: Wade McKoy Photos: Wade
28 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 Try These Day Hikes by Rebecca Woods GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK concentration of geysers in the world. Inexpensive
Hikers can’t resist the jaw-dropping beauty of the brochures available at the visitor center outline 2- to 4- S Tetons.The east shore of Leigh Lake offers the best back- mile loop walks. H country views of Mount Moran in the park. The massive PINEDALE Imo’s Deli peak towers over 4,000 feet above the lakeshore,its rocky Pinedale is the jumping-off point for trips into the slopes mirrored in Leigh’s crystalline water.Wildflowers Wind River Range.Forty summits top 13,000 feet in this thrive in the lush understory of the forested trail, and O dramatic Rocky Mountain chain, led by 13,804 foot moose are frequently spotted dining on aquatic vegeta- TK Gannet, the highest point in the state. While oriented tion near the shore. Walk as far as you wish; it is 7.4 towards longer trips, Green River Lakes and miles roundtrip to the end of the trail. The path begins Photographer’s Point are excellent day hikes.Green River LUNCH & DINNER at the north end of String Lake Outlet parking area, Lakes is a 6.5-mile loop venture that showcases Square SELECTIONS reached by turning west at North Jenny Lake Junction. Top Mountain, the most photographed peak in the A dawn or dusk 1.2-mile range. The 9-mile roundtrip Ready to Eat or Semi prepared roundtrip walk along level hike to Photographer’s Point is • Sandwiches Sawmill Ponds Bench is a satis- rewarded with a show-stopping • Baked Goods fying way to start or end a sum- vista of the northern Wind • Daily Lunch Specials mer day. The bench offers a River Range. But then, what • Hot Soup & Chili bird’s-eye view into a riparian would you expect from a place • Thin Crust Pizza area frequented by wildlife and called Photographer’s Point? • Wall Street Journal & waterfowl. The trail is an old dirt Inquire locally for directions. New York Times road that once led to a small • Fresh Meat & Fish ranch occupied in the 1920s. CODY Scattered timber, concrete foot- Teddy Roosevelt pro- •ATM ings, and cabin walls still poke nounced the 52-mile stretch of Most Complete Deli through the sagebrush. The hike road between Cody and & Grocery Store on begins at a large pullout 1.2 Yellowstone the most scenic . the Valley’s Westside miles from the Moose end of the blacktop in the United States. Moose-Wilson Road across from Designated the Buffalo Bill Cody 6 miles Before Ski Area In the Aspens on Teton Village Rd park headquarters. Scenic Byway in 1996, U.S. Literally dozens of wonder- Highway 14/16/20 follows the OPEN DAILY 7:30AM ful trails outside Grand Teton North Fork of the Shoshone 307-733-6202 National Park await exploration. River through the Absaroka Short hikes can pay big dividends Mountains to Yellowstone’s East Ski Lake is a 4.8-mile roundtrip in waterfalls and wildflowers. hike popular among wildflower Entrance. Thirty-eight miles enthusiasts. Nestled in a cirque at the base of the south- out of Cody, at the end of an unimproved road 1.5 miles WESTSIDE ern Tetons, this charming tarn is virtually hidden until south of Blackwater Lodge, is the trailhead to the you are upon it. The trailhead is located halfway up Blackwater Fire Memorial. This National Recreation Teton Pass off signed Phillips Canyon Road. Park at the Trail follows Blackwater Creek to a point near the origin WINE & start of that road or in the large unpaved lot across the of a 1937 fire that killed 15 CCC forest firefighters—the highway 20 yards to the southeast. most deadly conflagration in the state to date. Those with time may wish to continue ascending the scenic YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK trail beyond the memorial to the summit of Clayton SPIRITS Visitors to the world’s first national park have over Mountain, where outstanding views of Buffalo Bill 1,000 miles of trail at their feet. Those on a tight time Reservoir and the Continental Divide unfold. tether should not miss the South Canyon Rim Trail from Artist Point to the Upper Falls. The path follows the rim DUBOIS The biggest and of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, a deep chasm Traveling west out of Dubois on U.S. Hwy 26/287 cut by the powerful Yellowstone River. Both the Lower towards Togwotee Pass, visitors soak in one of the most best selection and Upper Falls are showcased on this 3.2-mile stunning roadside panoramas in the West—a 2-mile roundtrip excursion. Those in good physical condition stretch of stratified volcanic cliffs and pinnacles that of fine wines, can easily extend their canyon exploration with a spec- soar over a thousand feet into the sky.Upper and Lower tacular side trip down Uncle Tom’s Trail. This short but Jade lakes’bottle-green waters reflect the colorful band- beers, and spirits very steep, one-mile path plunges 500 feet into the ed formations and surrounding countryside beautifully. canyon via a series of steel-grate steps. It ends at a plat- The 4.8-mile roundtrip hike to the lakes is among the on the form near the base of 308-foot Lower Falls, offering a most rewarding half-day excursions in the entire close-up view worth every gasp on the way back up.Both region. The Jade Lakes trailhead is located adjacent to West Bank trails are accessed off the South Canyon Rim/Artist Brooks Lake Campground, accessed by turning off the Point Road,located between Canyon and Lake junctions. highway onto the signed Brooks Lake Recreation Area The 4-mile Elephant Back Loop Trail one mile south access road. Located at The Aspens, Teton Village Rd. of Fishing Bridge Junction leads to a superb overlook of Rebecca Woods is a naturalist and author of four Yellowstone Lake, Pelican Valley, and the Absaroka respected guidebooks to the region: Jackson Hole 307-733-5038 Mountains.And,while you certainly won’t have the place Hikes,Targhee Trails,Walking the Winds,and Beyond [email protected] to yourself, the boardwalk around Upper Geyser Basin the Tetons. opposite Old Faithful Inn weaves through the largest
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 29 Remembering DougDoug CoombsCoombs
Doug Coombs skiing Teton Pass, Wyoming, and in base camp at Mount Vinson, Antarctica.
From the publishers—Friend, colleague, and ski icon Doug Coombs lost his life this spring in a skiing accident in the French Alps while coming to the aid of a fellow skier (Chad VanderHam, also deceased) who had slipped on ice and fallen over a cliff. He is survived by his wife Emily and son David. Doug touched thousands of lives through his skiing, climbing, guiding, and teaching. Hundreds of those stories are posted online at dougcoombsmemorial- fund.com. Here is one from Mark Newcomb. Many writers and magazine editors will record that Doug took skiing to a new level, He physically skied every run,then mentally skied them all again,often out loud. And again, pushed the boundaries of the sport, that sort of talk. Maybe. But those boundaries had pre- you sat and listened and learned. And laughed. A lot. viously been drawn by guys like Patrick Vallencent and Pierre Tardivel for steep, you-fall- I met Doug as he was pushing into the realm of,shall we say,non-lift assisted ski moun- you-die skiing; by Scott Schmidt for big air and fluidity; by Bill Briggs for technical ski taineering. Along with being king of the steeps, he was also the king of the poach, finagling mountaineering; by Hans Kammerlander and others in Himalayan ski mountaineering. more free lift,tram,and heli rides than any ten ski bums put together.Ultimately,though,he MWhat Doug did bring to skiing in the late 80s was a liquid-smooth, deceivingly power- loved the mountains and realized that many stunning lines could only be accessed the old ful, utterly natural turn the likes of which had not been seen before. His incomprehensibly fashioned way—by climbing or hiking. fast reaction speed and sixth sense kept him always on—but never over—the sharp edge of I watched Doug’s mountain climbing skills progress from starting up the beginner walls disaster. It was this combination of qualities that made him unique in the realm of big at the local rock climbing gym (I first taught him how to use the belay device there) to waltz- mountains and big faces. He was truly the king of steeps. ing up 5.11 rock climbs and passing his AMGA rock-guide exam (with very strict require- Cameramen loved Coombs. His speed, power, and keen sense for the perfect line made ments on rock-climbing ability).And his mountaineering skills and judgment made a sim- him the ideal skier to film.He could look at a slope and know immediately how water would ilarly steep and rapid progression. flow down it, and he would take the same line, deftly stepping out of the way of his slough, Raw energy.....endless energy. No body fat, just steel cables in ceaseless motion. Until a or juicing it and simply outrunning the cascading plume. deep low pressure and a big storm, at which point he could sleep for hours. In Antarctica, We’re talking about skiing 50-60 mph in extreme terrain.For those of us who often tried during a storm, he slept for 20 hours straight. following his tracks, where he was making perfect turns, we were hesitant, making twice as And I never saw him lose a chess match. Probably not something people knew him for, many turns and picking our way down. he was a brilliant chess player.And he ran his field operations at Valdez Heli-Ski Guides like But what really set him apart was his personality.Always laughing, always enthusiastic, a chess game, carefully placing all his pawns—us mere mortal guides—so that we never always upbeat and positive, he was utterly approachable whether you were a total novice or beat him to the best line of the day. If we ever did, he was just as enthusiastic about our a fellow pro. He loved skiing and he loved pushing himself, but he also loved seeing others accomplishment as he would have been if it were him on that perfect, fluted face. push themselves, acquire new skills, and improve. Doug had a way of communicating with “I think I’m getting rusty,” Doug told me once during an Exum Ski Mountaineering clients in clear, direct, uncomplicated instructions that would at once calm their fears and Camp. “I haven’t skied much for a while.” It was June 10th. get them to ski terrain beyond what they thought themselves capable of. His was a joyful, “Really?”I replied, wondering if the transition back from Europe, the moving, the visit- romping pursuit of perfection. ing family,etc.,had kept him his off his skis for a few weeks or even a month. “How long has
He never followed. Not anyone. Not Scott Schmidt. Not Dominique Perret. He led, you it been?” McKoy photos Wade followed; you tried to keep up, you rarely did. But you learned. The angulation, the pole “Five days.” He replied with a straight face. plant, the counter rotation, the power, the deft touch in variable snow. And in the bar, his Then he laughed. remarkable memory rehashed the day: this turn here, that turn there, that terrain feature. We all laughed. — Mark Newcomb, fellow guide. 30 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 summertime
Fireweed blooms in August, often creating cornstalk-like meadows. continued from page 28 having forgotten, say, your jacket. Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations only.We hang wildfire per- petrators ‘round here. Headlamp. Or at least a flashlight. The latest LED lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless. Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew. Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well marked, well worn. The Teton Village Sports is your source for everything outdoors from moment a trail looks specious, calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you disc golf, swimming, trekking, running, biking, hiking and a huge stopped paying attention. selection of men’s and women’s sportswear. Located at the gate- Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. (Please don’t go looking to way to Grand Teton National Park, stop by and get outfitted with actually use it.) Sun block. Lipschmeer. the things you need for your time in Jackson Hole. We also enjoy Miscellaneous. Sunglasses. Blister protection; if you feel a bit of rubbing winter all year long with skis, snowboards, boots, outerwear and within the first mile of your hike, a blister is imminent.One hundred feet of 1/4- accessories at savings of up to 60% off. inch parachute cord—I carry it all the time,use it once every three years.Heavy- duty plastic trash bags weigh nada, take no space, and separate dry things from TRAIL RUNNING moisture. Winter all Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-of-backcountry sentiments. Carry summer it but turn it off. In an emergency it probably won’t work. Scramble to a higher CRUISER BIKES spot, preferably a ridge with line-of-sight into the valley. Just don’t call because long someone’s tired. Expect to be invoiced for a rescue. SPORTSWEAR Watch out for: FOOTWEAR Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Mountaineering requires training in the use of this elegant and sharp stick, TREKKING which is often accessorized with shoe spikes, aka crampons. If you come across steep snow with no way to stick to it,turn around lest you DISC GOLF court an injury of all-too-common an origin. Life gone wild. Deer and elk usually have the common sense to bolt well before you see them. Moose and bison don’t have such a huge personal space. HIKING They’ll pretend to ignore you, sucking you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.”Once they decide you are a threat,you are too close for any retreat.Bison BIKING go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a free-form sculpture. Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on the best coping strategy; Jackson’s mountain I won’t pretend I have the last word on that. Best not to get in that predicament recreation specialists in the first place.Make noise as you amble.Bears are not shy about breaking and entering for food, either tents or cars. There’s no shortage of preventive tech- for 40 years. niques available courtesy of park rangers. And, finally, if you can manage to be attacked by a wolf, be prepared to 733-2181 • Open Daily become the star of a nationwide media feeding frenzy. www.tetonvillagesports.com David Swift lives the idyllic life in Jackson Hole, except when he’s working Crystal Springs Lodge in Teton Village as a photographer, writer, critic, or information-technology consultant.
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 31 Cruising Dirt
With the Teton Pass highway and Mount Glory as the Mountain bikers go deeper backdrop, rider Todd Johnson pedals up the ridge. by Jeff Ward he bicycle is the perfect extension of the human body. It allows us to efficiently carry Tourselves long distances, at high speeds, to places we would likely never otherwise see. Modern bikes’ high-tech suspension frames make mountain trails feel plush and their low, forgiving gears help us manage steep climbs. And biking’s high yahoo-factor often yields a feel-good endorphin buzz despite its cardiovascular demands.To top it off,a long bike ride provides the perfect guilt-free excuse to enjoy a big, calorie- packed meal. Combine all of this with Teton splendor, and you have the ingredients for a great vacation day.
WHERE TO GO If you’re staying in Jackson,you can leave your car at the hotel and bike directly to some of the area’s best mountain biking.For example,the greater Snow King trail system, known to locals as the “backyard trails” because of their close proximity to town, rivals the Photographers, clockwise from top right: Greg VonDoersten, Wade McKoy, Tuck Fauntleroy Tuck McKoy, Wade Photographers, clockwise from top right: Greg VonDoersten, nation’s top mountain bike experiences. Chris Peck, Brian Close rolls through fall aspens on the Putt Putt trail in Cache Creek. the area’s first full-time program director, recom- mends starting at the Cache Creek trailhead, where a turn-off. But if you’d like to ride what Peck has from the punishing ski area service road which passel of rides begin. The trailhead’s kiosk displays a dubbed a “splendid single-track,” two other scenic switchbacks up the steep slope. map of the area and stocks a hefty supply of free trail options roughly parallel the double-track road—the Another Koehler-designed trail is in the planning maps. Take some time to get familiar with Snow Hagen Trail to the south and the recently improved stages and would link the Leeks Canyon trail, which King’s routes, and you’ll soon be able to combine and expanded Putt-Putt Trail to the north. hits closed private land a mere 1/8 mile before inter- many of the shorter rides into a long one. Last summer the new Ferrin’s Trail gave riders an secting Highway 191 south of Jackson, to the Sink or One “backyard” classic, for example—Cache exciting option for climbing Snow King Mountain Swim trail on the northwest side of Snow King. Creek-to-Game Creek—features a 25-mile loop and a and linking with trails on its south side. The single- Directions to three other trailhead-kiosks are host of variations. The traditional route follows the track trail, designed specifically for bicycle use by available at Cache Creek itself or from bike shops creek up an old double-track road to the Game Creek Jack Koehler and Chris Peck, is a pleasant change around town. 32 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 On the other side of the valley, at Teton Village, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort continues to develop its bike/hike trail system. A free map details 15 winding single-track trails and helps keep riders on route at the trails’many junctions. Teewinot Chair Lift carries cyclists and bikes up its short climb, pro- viding novice riders access to one of the easier trails. But if it’s a long, steady climb you crave, Teton Village claims the ultimate ride. Its seven-mile, two- track road gains 4,139 vertical feet of elevation and ends at the aerial tram summit station. Because downhill riding is prohibited above the bottom of Thunder Chair Lift, cyclists must then ride the tram down (at no charge). For downhillers, though, a new and exciting chapter is being played out on Teton Pass, where for the first time the Forest Service has designated a one- way downhill trail.Lithium easily justifies having ten inches of suspension travel. Big jumps, high speed, and challenging berms make Lithium the real-deal for downhillers who measure a good time by how much adrenaline they release. Although most of the jumps have a way around them, downhiller and trail builder Harlan Hottenstein of Wilson Backcountry Sports deems the route “expert-only” because of its many steep sections. Regional trails are generally two-way and multi- ple-use. But, as Rob Sgroi, Bridger-Teton Forest Service trail supervisor, explained,“Downhill moun- tain biking is not compatible with other users.”Sgroi said that he is working with Teton Village to develop lift-access mountain biking, and that an extensive trail system has been approved. “The Village is responsible for building within their permit area,” Sgroi noted,addressing the hopes of avid downhillers longing for more runs. Many ski resorts have devel- oped lift-accessed, downhill-only bike trails, but Jackson Hole Resort isn’t pursuing that market—yet. One good way to find a suitable outing is to browse local guide books,pick out a handful of rides, then visit a bike shop for advice on those rides. Every shop employs trail-riding experts who are ready and willing to help.My favorite book is The Book,Guide to Mountain Biking in the Jackson Hole Area. WHAT TO BRING Even experts can’t agree on exactly what to bring on a mountain bike ride. One school of thought says that if you arrive at a ride’s end with water or food remaining, you’ve brought too much. Another school advocates bringing enough food for a small picnic and enough tools to open up a trailside bike shop. I think you want to fall somewhere in the middle. Moving swiftly and unencumbered by heavy gear is what makes mountain biking so much fun. But becoming dehydrated or hungry, or not having the simple tools to fix a flat tire, clearly means you’re traveling too light. On a typical ride,one lasting four hours or less on Maria Hayashida cruises the Game Creek single-track on a perfect summer day. a summer day when the weather looks at least fairly hydration, I calculate needing 16 ounces of energy tool is the only other thing I pack. It gives me what I reliable, I try to fit everything I need—food, tools, replacement drink for every hour of riding. need to fix a broken chain,adjust brakes and drive and extra clothing—into the three pockets of my Remember this simple rule: drink before you feel train, or true a wheel. If something major breaks bike jersey. For food I pack one energy bar for every thirsty, and eat before you feel hungry. down, I embrace the inherent risks of mountain bik- hour of riding and one energy gel for every half-hour As for tools, I try to keep it simple. You should ing and start walking. For clothing I check the fore- of riding. Energy gels and bars may lack gourmet count on getting a flat, and therefore carry a spare cast: if it looks like it might get cold or rain, I ride the splendor, but they’re compact and full of fuel. For tube,patch kit,tire levers,and a pump.A good multi- backyard trails. And if I’m continued page 35 www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 33 The Pathways of Jackson Hole A recreation and transportation alternative
Wade McKoy reporting
ackson Hole’s pathway system began in 1992 with big goals and a modest first phase: four miles of Jasphalt, 10-feet wide, connecting the Jackson Hole High School area with its neighborhoods. Now, 14 years later, the system has grown to 26 miles and includes a route connecting Wilson with Teton Village. What’s more, the system’s 25-year master plan calls for 57 miles of pathways further connecting Jackson Hole communities. Notably, Grand Teton National Park wants to include pathways in its new transportation plan to be announced later this year. To better understand pathway usage and needs, Friends of Pathways and Jackson Hole Community Pathways sponsored a user survey conducted last summer. The resulting 52-page document prepared by civil engineer Jeffrey LaMondia details many aspects of pathway use and identifies their value: Shared-use paths are a relatively new trans- portation facility that is emerging with great inter- est across the United States. These facilities not only serve as a recreational area, but also act as transportation routes for communities. They give Photo: Greg VonDoersten all different modes, including walkers, runners, The Wyoming Press Association, Friends of by the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance. cyclists, skaters, and horseback riders, access Pathways, and the Jackson Hole News & Guide •More than 77% of the total public com- to travel corridors. Researchers have shown ments received call for a more complete transit shared-use paths can improve the environment, appealed the decision under the Freedom of Information Act. system than proposed and 47 miles of separat- enrich the vitality of an area, and increase the ed pathways (Improved Alternative #4). health of a community. The appeal was eventually granted,and a study of •Slightly more than 3% of responses the comments revealed that over 90% of respondents Early last summer, Grand Teton National Park express opposition to the proposed placement who identified a specific alternative favored at least of pathways in the park. revealed a long-awaited set of transportation-plan 41 miles of pathways. The official GTNP summary The public comment period on the Grand alternatives, including roadway-shoulder improve- did not publish that fact. Teton Transportation Plan Draft EIS ended ments, separated multi-use pathways, traveler The National Parks Conservation Association August 25, 2005. After the Wyoming Press information systems, and a limited pilot transit released the following: Association, Jackson Hole News & Guide and program. Pathway inclusion ranged from none in Friends of Pathways’ efforts on the public’s Alternative 1, to 41 miles in Alternative 4. The park The National Parks Conservation behalf to make these important comments endorsed Alternative 3, which includes 23 pathway Association (NPCA) recently released an inde- accessible to all, NPCA submitted the full pendently contracted quantitative analysis of miles, and collected public comments on the plan record to an independent professional analyst, public comments received on the Grand Teton Theodore Hughes, who for several years was during the summer. Transportation Plan Draft Environmental Impact part of the government team charged with cre- Most critics agreed that the park’s plan did not Statement (EIS), which shows nearly unani- ating reports on public comment records for adequately address mass transit, but the debate mous public support for increased pathways EISs just like this one. He also worked from over pathways quickly grew contentious. To the dis- and an improved transit schedule in Grand 2000 to 2003 as a member of the U.S. Forest may and disbelief of local cyclists and others, sev- Teton National Park. Service’s Content Analysis Team (CAT). CAT eral conservation groups and some individuals pro- The summary of analysis reveals, “by all analyzed public comments on land manage- moted zero or few pathways. Pathways critics cited measures and categories, there is overwhelm- ment plans for federal decision-makers, ing support for the establishment of a park path- wildlife disturbance, tree loss, and degradation of including the Bureau of Land Management, the ways and transit system,” and a few of the key Forest Service, and the National Park Service. the motorized sightseeing experience as potential findings include: Hughes studied the more than 2,600 public harmful results. Pro-pathways groups, including •Among those submitting either form letters comments submitted and placed them into the Teton County Commissioners, Jackson’s mayor, or unique letters and favoring a specific plan summary categories by response and interest. and the local chamber of commerce, supported alternative, 92% want to see 41 miles or more Grand Teton National Park should be com- either Alternative 4 or a privately created plan of separated pathways established in the park. mended for creating a thought-provoking docu- called Improved Alternative 4, which maps out 47 •Among those submitting unique letters ment that has generated an energetic public pathway miles. alone, more than 80% indicate they would like response, as analysis of the public comments to see 41 miles or more of separated pathways. After a public-comment period ended, the park demonstrates. •A little over 1% of all submitted responses released an internally prepared summary of those favor alternative #3—the Preferred alternative Later this year the park will release its decision on comments. But when various groups asked for the in the Draft EIS. adopting a transportation plan. Many community complete file of comments so that they could draw •Slightly more than 3% indicate they favor leaders and residents hope the park will join in the their own conclusions, GTNP denied the requests. the “True Transportation Alternative”—proposed community’s vision for interconnecting pathways. 34 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 continued from page 33 tackling a trail for the known well in advance. BehindBehind thethe BrewBrew PubPub •• 307-734-6886307-734-6886 first time, I leave early enough in the day to allow for 5. Never spook animals—Give animals extra www.fitzgeraldsbicycles.com what might turn into a bushwack, one possibly room and time to adjust to you. When passing hors- www.fitzgeraldsbicycles.com aggravated by dehydration or hunger—or both! The es, use special care and follow directions from the only extra clothing I haul during summer is an ultra- horseback riders. Leave gates as you find them or as light windbreaker made for cycling. marked. TRAIL AND BIKING ETHICS 6.Plan ahead—Know your equipment,your abil- There’s one other consideration when biking ity,and the area in which you are riding.Always wear a helmet and appropriate safety gear. trails in Jackson Hole—or anywhere else: trail eti- Rentals quette. Hikers and horseback riders preceded moun- Jeff Ward is a semi-serious mountain bike, road New Bikes tain bikers on these paths by many years. Trail eti- bike, and BMX racer sponsored by Hoback Sports. Repairs quette demands that mountain bikers always yield to He has completed a number of ultra-distance events, Info walkers and horses. Cyclists should stop and get off including the 203-mile road race from Logan, Utah, Advice the path.Avoid spooking horses by giving them an to Jackson, and Minnesota’s four-day Border to Bike Culture especially wide berth.Behaving like a guest on the Border Triathlon. Jeff is also a carpenter, and aspir- trail and respecting others will ensure that trails stay ing freelance writer. open to us. The official trail and biking ethics are outlined by miing the International Mountain Bicycling Association e,, Wyo n Holle (IMBA), whose philosophy is,“Long live long rides.” N 307.733.0043 Jackso IMBA’s guidelines are: che - S.. Cac 1. Ride on open trails only—Respect road and 645 trail closures. Wilderness and National Parks are Neighborhood W closed to cycling. E 2. Leave no trace —Ride under conditions where Pub & Grille you will leave no evidence of your passing and prac- At the base of tice low-impact biking. Snow King Mountain 3. Control your bicycle —Obey all bicycle speed Fine Whiskeys regulations and recommendations. 17 Draft Beers 4. Always yield the trail—Show respect to others when passing,anticipate other trail users around cor- Choice Steaks, Fresh Seafood, ners, don’t startle others, and make your approach Fish & Chips, Burgers
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www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 35 LET’SLET’S RODEO!RODEO! Come see the show BY JANET MONTGOMERY Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall
Rodeo is first of all a contest — “Anything that involves horses is kind of like my Jackson rodeo,though,adds its own special touch a challenge to cowboy skills and endurance. But it’s bag,”she said. to the regular events. Youngsters there partake in also a show—with loud music, flashy costumes, and Even though horse-and-rider events seem to be her the catch-a-calf challenge. The arena is packed painted clowns. And for many Wyomingites and favorite, Early judged bull riding to be the best event. with tykes who charge at a little calf with a ribbon Westerners, it’s a social gathering to boot. “I just don’t know how these little bitty guys can on its tail. The first munchkin to snatch that color- Rodeo fan Sheri Nolan has been attending the have the strength to stay on one of those big, power- ful tie wins. “show”for most of her life, and she loves it. ful bulls,”she said. “It just amazes me. I’ve ridden a Cowboys at the JH Rodeo compete from Memorial “It’s the atmosphere,”Sheri said.“It’s just the peo- few bucking horses, and it takes all of your strength Day through Labor Day. Cash prizes and buckles, as ple who go…all the horse trailers and cars backed to stay on—and your balance.” well as the end-of-season saddle, are awarded to the up to the fence.” Although she hasn’t participated in the sport of top rider in each of three categories: rough stock, Never a participant and always a spectator, Sheri barrel racing or pole bending for nearly a decade, timed events, and ladies’ all-around. Early proudly pointed out that she never missed a rodeo during her 31 years of compet- ing.These days she trav- els to Cheyenne for Frontier Days, to Idaho for War Bonnet Days, and to her hometown, Pinedale, where she attends the Rendezvous Rodeo. Little wonder, grew up going to the cowboy competitions in then, that she declared, Oklahoma. “Rodeoing is a fever.” “It was something that families did,”Sheri recalled. That “fever” and its “You could always run into other family members. temperatures are sure to You know about everybody there, so you can wander rise again this season in around and visit. It’s a social event.” western Wyoming, Rodeoer Bill Gransden agreed that rodeos are a thanks in part to the social event,as well as a great place to meet new peo- nightly exhibitions in ple. Grandsen has been going to or participating in Cody and the two-nights the contests for 29 years. He especially loves the a week of rodeo in Jackson Hole Rodeo, where he competes in the team Jackson. roping events. “Where the pavement The rough stock events are usually the crowd ends and the West pleasers, Grandsen admitted, but roping is his begins”is bellowed from favorite event. the crow’s nest of the “I enjoy the roping more, just the pure fun of Jackson Hole Rodeo watching the animals work and perform to their Arena each Wednesday ability,”he said. and Saturday night at 8 Once a participant but now a spectator, Julie Early p.m., as the rousing agreed that she too enjoys watching the horse and rounds of rider and live- rider work as well. stock contests begin.
Clockwise from top: Cowboys work as a team in the calf-roping event. A rodeo queen starts the show with a patriotic display of horseman- ship. A bucking bronc and its rider explode from the chute. Kids from the audience chase a calf to snatch the ribbon from its tail in the kid’s calf scramble.
36 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 But a rodeo is little more slide, a mini-mechanical than good dirt watched over bull, and swings will help by fired-up spectators and round out the offerings for Howdy Pardner cowpokes without the most young rodeo fans. important element: stock. So Of course,Tate realizes that folks like Maury Tate have to rodeo begins at home.“What step up to the plate, or the gate I’m looking forward to the if you will. most is letting my little girls Y ou're This summer Tate will host be in the rodeo every night R in odeo his third Wyoming season and be a part of the Western Co untry with the Cody Nite Rodeo. But lifestyle,”he said. shaping the show isn’t new business for Tate, who has A slew of events is slated for kids in the Cody fes- produced roping, bull riding, high school, and other tivities.Some of the fare includes a calf scramble,the rodeo events in his home state of Oklahoma. Kowboy Kal-famous trick rope demonstration,photo RODEO He was part of the Professional Rodeo Association ops with real livestock, rodeo-clown face painting, Circuit for many years as a bull rider and a roper, and taking a spin in a real clown barrel. In Jackson Hole where he was among the best with a lariat. The Cody Nite Rodeo runs every evening from June Wednesdays & Saturdays In 2002, Tate purchased a few heifers and began 1 to Aug.31,at 8 p.m.,in Cody,Wyoming,“The Rodeo breeding to produce some of the top bucking bulls in Capital of the World!” at 8:00pm the business through his “Mo” Betta Bull Company. “Our thinking is, when people come to that Nite JH Rodeo Grounds • Snow King Ave. Wyoming cowboys will get an opportunity to ride rodeo, they want to have a good time. So the more FREE PARKING some of these “Mo” Betta bulls when they make the ways we can entertain them, the better it will be for 4 blocks from the Town Square trip to Cody for its Nite Rodeo. them,”Tate concluded. “For family, if it’s done right, Jackson Hole, Wyoming Tate said that the Cody rodeo, with its nightly con- there is no better form of clean, family fun than CALF SCRAMBLE tests, offers a unique set of challenges. But Cody is rodeo.” All kids ages 4-12 just the town to pull it off. Check these web sites for more information on FAMILY DISCOUNTS “I’ve never seen a town as passionate about rodeo rodeo: www.jhrodeo.com and www.codystam- $35.00 as the people in Cody are. Everybody you talk to, at pederodeo.com. some point or another,has worked or been a part of 4th of July Rodeo at 8:00pm the Cody Nite Rodeo,”he said. Janet Montgomery works as a designer, photogra- www.jhrodeo.com In taking on the Cody Nite Rodeo, Tate will weave pher, and freelance writer and lives in Sublette County with her husband and two daughters. Ticket Office 733-2805 his love for kids into the festivities.He revealed that a For advance tickets and information. The Road to The Rodeo Summer is rodeo season in the West, and there’s no lack of action to be had. Here’s where to find an event near you. Cody, Wyoming: Cody Nite Rodeo Gardiner, Montana: NRA Rodeo June, July, August, nightly at 8:00 –June 16 & 17 at 6:00 Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 Big Timber, Montana: June 24 at 6:00 Jackson, Wyoming: JH Rodeo Wilsall, Montana: June 10 at 6:30 p.m. & Memorial Day through Labor Day, every June 11 at 2:00 & the Wilsall Ranch Rodeo on Wednesday & Saturday at 8 :00 & July 4 Aug 20. (30 miles north of Livingston, at 8:00 Montana, on US Hwy 89). Dubois, Wyoming: Every Friday Red Lodge, Montana: Home of June 9–Sept. 8 at 7 :00 Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6:00. & July 4 at 3:00 West Yellowstone, Montana: Every weekend, June Livingston, Montana: Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, 16–August 19 at 8:00 & 4 at 8:00 Pinedale, Wyoming: During the Green River Big Piney, Wyoming: July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 2:00 Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Saturday, July 6-8 at 7:00 Meeteetse, Wyoming: Labor Day, September 4 at Triangle C Ranch: Ranch Rodeo–Friday evenings at 1:00 7:30 (20 miles west of Dubois or 70 miles NE of Jackson, on US Hwy 26) Call the towns’ chambers of commerce for more info. THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities JACUZZI SUITES OUTDOOR HEATED POOL OUTDOOR HOT TUB COLOR CABLE TV • RV PARK 800-262-4999 307-733-2792 www.virginianlodge.com ★ A Taste of the Old West ★
www.focusproductions. com 2006 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 37 ody CWYOMING82414 by Pony Smith For many people whose vacations bring them to FWyoming, their first glimpse of Cody is nothing more than a small dot on a map, situated amid the Rocky Mountains about fifty miles from the East Gate of Cody Firearms Museum, another key Yellowstone National Park. Their first section of the BBHC,is heralded as one impressions of Cody often fall into one of the world’s largest firearm collec- of two categories: either Cody offers a tions and also traces the development briefrespite before continuing on to of the frontier. Yellowstone or Cody is just a short The latest addition to the BBHC, sojourn after finishing a tour through The Draper Museum of Natural America’s first national park. History, includes exhibits on ancient Upon entering Cody,however,a vis- animals, local history, and the geologi- itor’s opinions tend to change as fast as cal processes that shaped the area Wyoming’s unpredictable spring around Cody and Yellowstone. weather. The town often leaves the The BBHC is not the only piece of traveler with a lasting impression not history in Cody, though. In fact, the only of what the West was, but of what entire town of Cody can be considered it continues to be—a permanent a museum. Several buildings in the reminder of this great state’s history in downtown area are original historic the long and colorful story of America. structures dating back to the years The keeper of that history is the immediately following Cody’s found- most visited and renowned attraction ing. The Irma Hotel, included in the in Cody, the Buffalo Bill Historical National Register of Historic Places, Center (BBHC), arguably Wyoming’s was built by Buffalo Bill himself just best-known museum. The museums seven years after the town’s founding within the historical center present a in 1895. Even now, its historic atmos- look at the West through different phere lives on in authentic pieces of aspects of history. One portion of the Western lore enhancing its rooms and BBHC is dedicated to Col. William through actors staging mock gunfights (Buffalo Bill) F.Cody, who founded the in front of the hotel’s steps. town and whose name and legacy still Equally impressive is nearby Old color the area. Another BBHC section, Trail Town, a re-creation of an 1890s’ The Plains Indian Museum, exhibits Western main street. Standing like an the lives and culture of the American excerpt from a frontier diary on the Indians. Similarly, the BBHC’s Whitney west end of Cody,Old Trail Town is a Gallery is a collection of art that collection of horse-drawn wagons, depicts life on the Western frontier.The antiques, and almost 30 authentic his-
38 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2006 toric buildings, all gathered from the Fourth of July are in for a gripping around the state and relocated to the display of unrivaled patriotism. The Old Trail Town. cowboy spirit thrives in the people of And less than a mile farther west, Cody.That spirit,infused as it is with a the old mingles with the new as mod- fierce patriotism, combines with the ern cowboys compete in the Cody Nite Fourth of July celebrations like flame Rodeo (see page 36), showcasing the and fuel, and the result is truly some- skills that their predecessors relied thing to behold. Wyoming and upon so heavily when settling this land. American flags hang from every street In the true pole and flutter in spirit of the fron- the wind on car tier and the antennas. Uncle exploration that Sam walks the brought people hot July pave- to Wyoming in its ment on stilts, early days, varied and cranes down festivities take to shake the place in Cody hands of throughout the awestruck chil- summer months. dren. People pack Like pioneers of the sidewalks and all shapes and sizes, they bustle into storefronts in search of vantage points Cody, bringing their own unique sto- to watch the parades.Horses and riders ries and entertainment only to disap- gallop around the rodeo arena with -OST CITY PARKS HAVE WADING POOLS pear after a brief stay, as if to continue flags trailing behind like the wind’s hair #ODY 7YOMING HAS A PARK WITH their journeys. Art exhibits, auctions, itself. And evening fireworks explode, RIVERS LAKES AND GEYSERS!S THE gun shows, even bands, all of these reverberating off the nearby mountains EASTERN GATEWAY TO 9ELLOWSTONE '%%+86A:C96G arrive in Cody throughout the summer. and fading into a tapestry of stars that .ATIONAL 0ARK WE ENJOY NATURAL D;:K:CIH Perennial favorites include the shines through the clear mountain air ADVANTAGES SUCH AS SPECTACULAR B6N Yellowstone Jazz Festival (mid-July), in everlasting celebration. SCENERY AND WILDLIFE "UT YOULL ALSO 0OWELL s -AYFEST #ELEBRATION the Wild West [hot air] Balloon Fest When visitors leave Cody, heading #ODY s #ODY 7ILD 7EST $AYS FIND HISTORY IN #ODYS "UFFALO "ILL (first week in August) and the annual home or perhaps on to Yellowstone, ?JC: (ISTORICAL #ENTER 4ROLLEY 4OURS AND #ODY s #ODY .ITE 2ODEO BEGINS visit of the Montana Shakespearean most will remember it as more than a #ODY s "UFFALO "ILLS 3UMMER 2ANGE GALLERIES AS WELL AS AREA MUSEUMS #ODY s TH !NNUAL #ANCER &UN