WEEKEND WARRIORS THEY MAY HAVE BEEN RELATIVELY CELEB-FREE AFFAIRS, BUT THE WEEKEND’S FASHION PARTIES SURE PACKED ’EM IN. SEE STYLE, PAGE 12

collections NEW YORK WWD fall 2011

MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

MONEY BAGS Venture Capitalists Eye Fashion Investments

By VICKI M. YOUNG

ANY YOUNG DESIGNER START-UPS merce’s continuing strong growth, a out there looking for investments to presence on the Web gives the opera- reach the next phase of growth? Well, tion an immediate global reach. In the venture capitalists are back. addition, the idea of Overall VC investments, which hit A number of fashion companies have a high of $100 billion in 2000, were already completed their rounds of VC around $25 billion last year after the fi nancing. And most have merged re- economic meltdown and are expected tail and the Internet in a big way. to rebound to about $30 billion this Men’s online apparel fi rm Bonobos, year, financial sources estimated. founded in 2007, in December said it And while it’s too early to tell what secured $18.5 million in a third round percentage of the share of VC funding of venture capital fi nancing, led by will go toward fashion and retail, VC Lightspeed Venture Partners and fi rms are already trawling for fi rms to Accel Partners, along with ongoing back given the growth opportunities participation from angel investors. they present. Angel investors provide funds in the What kind of companies do they earliest stages of a firm’s develop- like? Firms with a retail component, ment. Count friends and family in that for one, and Internet connections group, as well as high-net-worth indi- make a fi rm even more attractive. viduals willing to take a chance on the That’s because, in addition to e-com- SEE PAGE 6

IN WWD TODAY

A New Olsens Deal PAGE 11 ACCESSORIES: The Olsens launch footwear under their The Row label in a tie-up with philanthropic brand ▼ Toms Shoes.

China’s Luxury Booms On PAGE 2 FINANCIAL: A new report forecasts that China’s luxury market will grow by 25 percent a year between now and 2020.

Valentino’s Sales Rise PAGE 2 NEWS: As the Italian fashion house reveals a 20 percent increase in sales last year, its top executive The Sexy dismisses speculation owner Permira is out to sell the brand. Gaucho Diane von Furstenberg and co-designer Yvan Mispelaere were inspired by strong women for fall, specifi cally Millicent Rogers, Diana Vreeland and Gloria Vanderbilt. That meant everything from glam to gaucho, as in this caliente sheer shirt, high-slit skirt and lots of fringe. For more on the season, see pages 8 to 15. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 WWD.COM BEAUTY Sales Up at Valentino; Hannant Enters Scent Arena Firm Not on the Block By MATTHEW W. EVANS TOKYO — Valentino is about to post a double-digit jump in sales for 2010. NEW YORK — Douglas Hannant Valentino Fashion Group chief executive Stefano Sassi, has launched his first fragrance, a who flew here to fete a new freestanding store for the house’s signature women’s scent developed diffusion line, Red Valentino, with a cocktail party Thursday along with Robert Piguet Parfums, night, said last year provided “satisfaction” and the house’s in a move that executives said may sales are set to grow about 20 percent to 275 million euros, or put a charge into both businesses. $375.67 million. Final numbers are due in the coming weeks. “This is a milestone in every The house, which has undergone several restructur- designer’s career, to have a fra- ing efforts and ownership changes in the last decade, grance,” Hannant said. saw sales drop 11 percent in 2009. Its parent company, The eau de parfum is described Frederick Anderson Valentino Fashion Group, posted losses in 2008 and 2009. as a light floral and was composed and Douglas Hannant Douglas Hannant The 2,475-square-foot Red unit, featuring all-white inte- by Givaudan. JOHN CALABRESE PHOTO BY de Robert Piguet riors and vintage furnishings, makes its home in the trendy The fragrance and fashion Aoyama neighborhood. The boutique is on the ground floor houses threw a soiree hosted by Hannant launched a scent, presi- Aside from Saks, the fragrance while the second level features a showroom and event Geoffrey Bradfield at the Payne dent Frederick Anderson replied, is to initially enter 15 Neiman space leading up to a rooftop terrace. Although the brand Whitney Mansion Thursday to mark “It’s time for us to start expanding Marcus stores. The scent is expect- has shop-in-shops and corners in the region, this is Red’s the launch of Douglas Hannant de out from that [niche] base. We’ve ed to be in 100 doors in the U.S. by biggest statement store in Asia, according to Sassi. Robert Piguet. The scent went into been building the company into year-end, Garces said. The ceo also dismissed recurring speculation that Saks Fifth Avenue this past week, ac- more of a lifestyle brand.” In June, the fragrance is sched- Valentino Fashion Group’s primary shareholders, private cording to Joseph Garces, president Anderson noted Hannant will uled to be introduced in Europe, equity fund Permira and certain members of the Marzotto and chief executive officer of Robert be launching lingerie and sports- first at Harvey Nichols, where it family, are looking to sell the house. The executive said Piguet Parfums, Hannant’s licensee. wear this fall, collections that are is to take a spot in the store’s win- Valentino Fashion Group is turning around and is on track “We wanted to add a new dimen- to make their debut in spring 2012. dows. A rollout to the Middle East to post another year of growth in 2011. sion to the Piguet line,” he said, not- Hannant was approached to do a is slated for 2012. “I think [the current situation] will stay this way. ing that in recent years, the brand has scent a few years ago but Anderson Industry sources speculated Besides [the shareholders themselves] have confirmed that gone back to its archives to relaunch said it wasn’t the right time. It the scent could generate upward this continues to be a long-term project,” he said. scents and currently has seven fra- took about 10 months to develop of $10 million in retail sales in its The executive was less resolute when it came to the grances on the market. “He has a spe- Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet, first two years on the market. future of Valentino Fashion Group’s 45 percent stake cific [niche] clientele like we do.” with Hannant exchanging rounds Piguet perfumes are distribut- in Proenza Schouler, which is also rumored to be on the The methods in which both of individual compositions with ed to about 900 doors in the U.S. block. Most recent talk has Andrew Rosen of Theory nego- businesses are run are “parallel,” Givaudan’s facilities in France. and the perhaps best known two tiating to buy the stake according to Garces. “We have cre- A 1.7-oz. version of Douglas Hannant are Fracas and Bandit. Hannant’s “I don’t know, we’ll see…It’s going well. Proenza is ated a bond with our partnership.” de Robert Piguet is priced at $85 fashion house has been in opera- growing,” he said of Valentino Fashion Group’s investment When asked why the house of and a 3.4-oz. size goes for $120. tion since 1997. in the label. Returning to the business in Japan, Sassi acknowledged the market here is definitely challenging and consumers are becoming more selective in their purchases. But he said he still sees growing room for both Valentino’s first Report: China Near Half of Luxe Market by 2020 line and the lower-priced Red collection. “The average spending of the Japanese luxury customer By ELLEN SHENG CLSA declined to comment directly on Prada’s is very high so probably there can be a bit of a rebalanc- prospects in China and elsewhere in Asia, but ing in the future. But this doesn’t mean that there isn’t HONG KONG — Fast-growing China is poised to ac- Fischer said Western brands will continue to do well space for companies that do luxury. It’s the opposite,” he count for 44 percent of the global luxury market by in the region. Preferred luxury brands for watches, said, adding that Japan accounts for about 10 percent of the year 2020, according to a new report from CLSA clothing and jewelry in China are similar to those Valentino’s turnover. Asia-Pacific Markets. elsewhere in the world, but with some key differ- Sassi said he thinks the Red line will work well for CLSA, which is a bookrunner on Prada SpA’s ences, he explained. The luxury market in China is Japanese consumers. Ultragirly confections heavy on pink planned initial public offering in Hong Kong, forecasts still largely male-dominated, so men’s wear, suitcases, and ruffles figure prominently in the spring-summer col- the Chinese luxury market will grow at a rate of 25 per- watches and cars are significant segments. Hong Kong lection, which is designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier cent a year for the next five years, and then at a rate of and China combined account for 26 percent of Swiss Paolo Piccioli. The clothes are the same as those sold else- 22 percent a year afterward. This implies a market size watch exports, he said. where in the world. of 74 billion euros, or $101.4 billion, by 2020. Consulting Fischer anticipates more Western luxury brands “I think this line, from the taste point of view caters firm Bain & Co. estimates China’s domestic market in will list in Hong Kong. well to the characteristics of this market,” he said. 2009 was 68 billion yuan, or $10.32 billion. “It makes sense,” he said, noting that after Sassi declined to give a sales forecast for Red but he Luxury goods companies have been doing well in L’Occitane’s listing, the French skin care maker’s said it’s still a small percentage of Valentino’s overall turn- Asia for some time, but there’s evidence that growth sales in Asia increased. over and the first line accounts for about 85 percent of is accelerating, analyst Aaron Fischer said in a brief- Despite recent strong earnings from companies, the total. Red sales points include Neiman Marcus, Saks ing in Hong Kong. the share prices of luxury goods companies have suf- Fifth Avenue, Harrods and Isetan. It currently has flagship The percentage of households with income of more fered in recent months amid concerns about inflation. stores in London, Rome, Hong Kong and Singapore. than $10,000 a year — the point at which consumers “That’s surprising,” Fischer said, explaining that in- Red retail prices in Japan range from 16,800 yen, or start buying luxury goods — has increased to 17.9 per- flation is generally favorable to luxury players as they $203, for a ruffled T-shirt to 33,600 yen, or $406, for a pair cent from 3.1 percent in 2000, the research said. CLSA can raise prices without fear of backlash from con- of ballerina flats or 111,300 yen, or $1,345, for a rose party expects this income group to grow at double digits for sumers and there is no margin pressure since mar- dress exclusive to the Aoyama store. the next eight years, according to the bank. gins are around 60 to 90 percent. — AMANDA KAISER

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A rendering of the Vionnet Reese Opens in Tokyo boutique. By SHARON EDELSON demure,” she said. “Certain aspects of the Japanese customer are a little more old NEW YORK — Tracy Reese isn’t crushing fashioned. They like longer skirts, little on Japan; she wants to have a meaningful cardigans and anything that’s prim.” relationship. Other distinctions: Japanese women The designer’s triple-threat collec- love color and texture. They like real tions include a namesake line, Frock fur and they buy head-to-toe looks. The and Plenty. On Feb. 25, she will open a Omotesando Hills store will have a bou- 500-square-foot store at the Omotesando tique atmosphere with chandeliers and Hills shopping center in Tokyo, along- signature fabrics. Plenty will be fully side brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, represented, with casual and vintage- Jimmy Choo and Harry Winston. It will be inspired shoes that launched in the fall, Reese’s second freestanding store in the and a home collection, bath accessories world after an inaugural unit on Hudson and candles. “Our shoe business has gone

Street in the West Village, here. through the roof,” Miguel said. “Once the flagship opens, there will be more opportunities for freestanding stores and corners, and shop-

in-shops in depart- ment stores,” Miguel said. “We’ll be moving further into Asia next year. We’ve started working with distribu- Vionnet Unveils Retail Concept ·· tors in China and we’ll start opening stores in By LUISA ZARGANI interiors, Marzotto said it was defined by China in the latter part clean lines and contrasts between ma- of the year.” MILAN — Vionnet is introducing its terials and colors, such as black mirrors Asked whether retail concept with the opening of its and steel against soft carpeting and a sofa more Tracy Reese first signature boutique in the world in a powdery color or champagne silk units are slated for the today. Under a franchising agreement chairs with black profiles. A steel, satin- U.S., Miguel said, “The with luxury developer Sheikh Majed finish moiré light box used to project light U.S. economy has been Al-Sabah, the store is located in Kuwait throughout the store is positioned at the in a state of flux. We’re City in the new high-end shopping des- back. A flower pattern on the wall harks Tracy Reese in Tokyo. on a growth trajectory tination 360° Mall, which also includes back to an archival 1928 photo of Joan again. U.S. expansion restaurants, lounges and areas dedicat- Crawford wearing a long white Vionnet ed to art and entertainment. dress, while a retro chandelier also hints For the past three The 756-square-foot boutique was at the history of the house. The mirrors years Reese has been designed by the brand’s creative direc- in the changing rooms are reproductions working with Japanese Certain aspects of the tor Rodolfo Paglialunga and opened of those in Madeleine Vionnet’s Parisian distribution company after only 18 months from Vionnet’s atelier and are shaped like three-way Itochu Corp. “Our Japanese customer are a relaunch and first collection, noted co- hinged dressing mirrors. business has steadily owner and chairman Matteo Marzotto. “It was natural for us to include this grown during a chal- “The location and the positioning are unique, evocative brand in our portfo- lenging economic time little more old fashioned. right, and this is a very dynamic part of lio,” said Al-Sabah. “The 360° Mall is in Japan,” said Barry — TRACY REESE the world,” said Marzotto. “Kuwait stands defined by values of luxury, pleasure Miguel, chief executive as a bridge for the flux of people transit- and comfort in a context of modern officer of T.R. Designs, ing from India to Europe but is also brim- shopping experience; this is why it is the firm’s parent company. “We’ve been is coming up soon. This year, we’re fo- ming with local shoppers. There’s a lot of built like a hotel lobby, both welcoming selling to department and specialty stores cused on international expansion.” But potential.” Marzotto, the former chairman and attractive.” [in Japan]. We feel like we’re ready for the company isn’t interested in expansion of Valentino SpA and heir to the Marzotto The Vionnet brand is currently avail- the next step.” The company in 2010 grew for expansion’s sake. “It’s not about throw- textile family, described Al-Sabah as a able at 140 doors around the world, 20 percent over 2009. ing up stores,” Reese said. “We’re finding a “strong developer in that area,” and that and Marzotto said that, together with Reese has built a loyal following in way to create a great experience and give his relationship with him was a long- co-owner Gianni Castiglioni, chief ex- Japan, despite the fact that duty adds excellent customer service.” standing one. Al-Sabah, who is currently ecutive officer of Marni, he is mapping 30 percent to the price per unit. “We’ve Reese wants to put her imprimatur on vice president and member of the board out “a strategy of retail development, worked hard to improve our quality and new products. “I’d like to do bedding,” of the 360° Mall, exited as chairman of with the opening of between five and 10 they seem very satisfied,” Reese said. she said. “We’ve started to do our own Kuwait retailer Villa Moda last year after stores, depending on the opportunity.” “They have very high standards.” handbags. We dabble in ··jewelry. If the clashing with its majority shareholder. In its first fiscal year, which closed Reese has grasped the subtle differenc- right partnership came along, we’d like to Marzotto also said he “worked well” at the end of December, Vionnet’s sales es between Asian and American shoppers. do jewelry, but we wouldn’t want to pro- with Paglialunga and described their reached 5.5 million euros, or $7.2 mil- “Japanese consumers are slightly more duce it ourselves.” relationship as “relaxed.” Of the store’s lion at average exchange rate.

DVF Goes Home With Bloomingdale’s

NEW YORK — “We’re playing it very prints from her dresses add vibrancy. big. When we get an exclusive, we “You can have as many duvet cov- make a big deal of it.” ers as you have lovers,” said von That’s Bloomingdale’s chairman Furstenberg. “Well, maybe that’s not so and chief executive officer Michael good to say. Maybe have as many duvets Gould expressing what’s been standard as you would like to have lovers.” Her procedure at the store for years — get- objective with the collection was “to ting the jump on the competition with bring color and print into the home.” a high-profile label. On Friday, Gould “There’s really mixing and match- whisked Diane von Furstenberg through ing,” as you would expect in ready-to- Bloomingdale’s 59th Street store, which wear, noted Kevin Harter, vice presi- was decked out in DVF tabletop and dent and fashion director for home, bedding on the home floors, in the win- men’s and kids’ at Bloomingdale’s, dows, along the escalator banks and which has a 60-day exclusive on with statements in ready-to-wear areas. Diane von Furstenberg Home. He said It’s the designer’s first true crack at the DVF could quickly emerge as one of category, though she’s dabbled in home Bloomingdale’s biggest volume labels decor before, and it’s comprehensive — in home, with Ralph Lauren, Calvin about 500 stockkeeping units in table- Klein, Vera Wang, Donna Karan and top and another 400 in bedding. The Michael Aram, among a few others. presentation includes a 300-square-foot “It’s different. It’s got color. There’s gallery for cheese platters, bakeware, a lot going on,” Gould said. “We have salad bowls and glassware, flanked by been a partner with Diane for close to tables of napkin rings, plates, cups and 40 years. Her DNA and our DNA are saucers in glass, porcelain, lacquer and very similar.” It’s that contemporary wood. Batiks, Miro-inspired colors and vibe they both feel. Diane von Furstenberg and Michael Gould outside Bloomingdale’s. — DAVID MOIN PHOTO BY JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY patterns, and the designer’s signature Julia Roberts

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{Continued from page one} vertising game, mobile commerce is the next thing…. Shopkick is a good example of thinking about where next big thing. Once a company gets it feet wet, the next all this is headed.” phase of early-stage investing is venture capital. Some Shopkick’s app allows a shopper’s mobile device, angel investors will continue to go along for the ride, once entering a participating retailer equipped with providing additional funding alongside the VCs. a transmitter, such as American Eagle Outfitters, to re- Shopkick, the early-stage venture that creates soft- ceive information on deals available at the store. ware apps for use on smartphones, in July raised $15 In addition to these two, others are now in the midst million in its second round of financing, which was led of VC fund-raising efforts. Jordy Leiser, co-found- er and chief executive officer of StellaService, completed an angel in- vesting round at the end of 2009 which raised $250,000. He’s been on the hunt to raise more than $1 million in VC funding and expects to close on his second round Expecting to close its second round of fund-raising shortly, the of fund-raising shortly. StellaService seal is now on 50 retail sites. StellaService uses consumer satisfaction you a global company. There are no borders and no data to rank Internet- boundaries, unlike going back 20 or 30 years ago before centric retailers on their the Internet when the [infrastructure meant] building service. A “seal of ap- brick-and-mortar one [store] at a time.” proval” is on the sites Apar Kothari, who co-founded MyNines in 2009, said that pass muster. Two the curation advantage allows consumers to go to one early adopters were place and see all the available sales, instead of having Zappos.com and Diapers. com, and now 50 on- line retailers carry the StellaService seal. Mobile commerce, still Last month, ARC Angel Fund closed on a somewhat in its infancy in $50,000 investment in the online private-sale ag- gregator MyNines Inc. the U.S., is expected to be the ARC, a member-led angel fund, invests in next big game changer for early-stage and seed in- vestment opportunities. consumer shopping. David J. Freschman, a co-founder of ARC, said MyNines presented an to deal with each sale site individually. Bonobos received $18.5 million in venture capital funding last year. attractive investment op- Other early investors include Greenhill SAVP, with portunity because it “is $350,000, through its institutional fund GSA Venture by Greylock Partners and includes a consortium of in- the first of its kind in the aggregation arena.” Capital, which closed in April 2010, and angel investor vestors such as Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers and He called MyNines “disruptive,” in that it is capable Jill Preotle, with $100,000 that closed in August 2010. Citi Growth Ventures & Innovation Group. of changing the online user experience by “changing Brian Hirsch, a managing director at GSA, who is Matt Murphy, partner of Kleiner Perkins, said at the entire industry and/or the shopping habits of the also an individual investor in ARC, said his firm was in- the time, “As investors think more and more on how consumer. That’s why venture capitalists are involved, terested in MyNines due to the “explosion online of pri- to get transaction flow, rather than the eyeball and ad- because of the online strategy which automatically gives vate single-sale sites,” noting that there are more than 100 such sites online. He ex- plained when there is that much dispersion in terms of vendors, aggregation can be a successful business such as Shopping.com, Mysimon.com or, in the travel sector, Kayak.com. “Our fund was comfortable betting on the site because it didn’t need to carry inventory, the cost to operate is low and the business model is based on commission from affiliated sites” for sending shoppers its way, Hirsch said. “This is a clean, easy model to scale, versus the direct-product sale site, which can be hard to de- termine which ones are likely to be winners.” Kothari is currently fund- raising, hoping to raise another $2 million to $3 million via in- stitutional investors to ramp up the company’s technology team and staffing capabilities. The growth in funding avail- ability and the need for a way to connect fashion entrepreneurs and prospective investors, much like the technology hub that evolved in Silicon Valley, led Freschman and Karen Griffith Gryga, both experienced VC in- vestors, to found FashInvest in 2009. In December, FashInvest held its first capital conference where 15 firms had the oppor- tunity to make presentations to potential investors. MyNines was one of those making a presentation — which clearly worked out for it. 874.DICKIES.COM 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011

Calvin Klein Collection

HeatingOuterwear is in and it’s sweeping the fall runways with gutsy knits, Up lots of layerings and parkas shown even over filmy dresses.

Diane von Furstenberg: There’s much to be said for professional self- Altuzarra awareness. Even on the front end of her still-new collaboration with co-designer Yvan Mispelaere, Diane von Furstenberg possesses it in abundance, which is why she opened and closed her fall show with wrap looks. As she also knows the value of constant motion, those were tweaked for newness: the first, a gaucho jumpsuit spin on the house classic; the last, a divine sequined diva gown. Both strong takes, for sure. But then, von Furstenberg and Mispelaere were inspired by strong women they consider “American Legends,” specifically Millicent Rogers, Diana Vreeland and Gloria Vanderbilt. Before the show, von Furstenberg said that meant runway explorations of “rodeo, editor in chief and society lady.” The emphasis was definitely on the first part of the equation, showing up in bold Aztec patterns, major fringe and all sorts of gaucho accents. More clearly citified inspirations were revealed in some smart coats, sportif layerings and racy printed pajamas “like the ones I used to wear to Studio 54,” von Furstenberg offered. Those prints were just part of the fabric interest; the collec- tion also featured high-impact fabric plays, colorblocking, shots of lamé and some interesting, young embroideries. While at times the visual bravado veered toward excess, at its best — for example, a jacket, shirt and pants in a mesmerizing mix of blues or an inven- tively bejeweled column — it delivered a sassy take on chic.

Altuzarra: “Nonchalance” was Joseph Altuzarra’s buzzword for fall. A 1994 Annie Leibovitz photo of a tousled-looking Kate Moss next to an equally unkept Johnny Depp, meanwhile, provided its inspirational anchor. Do the math: Altuzarra is vying for a Nineties ease by way of Seattle. The designer served up some loose, T-shirt- like argyles, rendered at times patchwork-style; crinkly, almost seersucker-like plaids on sexy, slack dresses, and numerous frayed and raw edges from start to finish. After last season’s sleek precision, Altuzarra came elegantly undone — without losing any of that serious street cred. It made for a spectacular collection, ultrasophisticated yet edgy and cool. There were plenty of wonderfully wearable clothes to boot: the patterned pullovers, sturdy tweed trenches, as well as tweed- and Tommy plaid-printed jeans, which were the result of a collaboration with Hilfiger Current/Elliott. And as with other designers this season, Altuzarra included a standout outerwear statement: beefed-up parkas with wide, cozy hoods lined in plush fur. But, core to the designer, there simmered a sensuality beneath in the form of sheer tops and dresses, and skirts slit high with wayward straps that seemed to hint at both sporty and slight bondage. And Oscar alert! Altuzarra whipped up some enchanting, spangled T-shirt dresses, spliced with arty swathes of fabric.

Calvin Klein Collection: “Protection” is how Italo Zucchelli described his fall lineup backstage, and he couldn’t have been more to the point. In a generally strong collection, Zucchelli once again experimented with shape and construction, offering extra-padded nylon coats and pullovers that can withstand a few blows, top- heavy wool bomber jackets, and ultrawide trousers that narrowed to the hem. Zucchelli continues to make his mark at Calvin Klein for his play with new fabrics and proportions, and while guests Zac Efron and Joe Jonas are perhaps unlikely to embrace those looks, the designer had plenty of sophisticated alternatives up his sartorial sleeve. Tailoring was a strong point for fall, and a pine hue brought a welcome sense of warmth to the designer’s color palette of grays, reds and blues. Zucchelli accentuated a tuxedo jacket with a shiny tape seam, a move that not only underscored his commitment to the brand’s modernism, but also could make for quite a dashing statement the next time teen heartthrobs Efron and Jonas cross the red carpet.

Alexander Wang: A GQ men’s wear win. A new flagship boutique. What’s next for Alexander Wang? “Extreme sportswear,” said the designer, who brought that notion beautifully to the urban streets. This is Wang circling back to his edgy, tough-chic — and mostly black! — turf after a brief respite. But he doesn’t step and repeat. He took his production to a new level — squares of light pulsing dramatically on the runway — which read more powerhouse and polished than party. Fall was Wang at his most laser-focused, mature and construction-savvy yet. Pre-show, the designer noted that he wanted to “poke fun at luxury and decadence.” And what’s more luxe and decadent than formal attire? Wang deconstructed that notion with an additional Arctic snow-bunny motif, creating a slew of inventive hybrid garments. Tuxedo pants zipped open on the sides to reveal track pants beneath. He melded parka with moto jacket, jazzed up with a tailcoat in the back. Peacoats wed winter puffers. An oversize blazer came cut in mink. Meanwhile, the evening portion riffed off the traditional bib dress shirt — redone as sheer blouses and smocks — as well as the cummerbund. That’s what all those gorgeous finale gowns, with flyaway streamers, were about. “It’s the idea of the cummerbund falling apart,” said Wang. As for the WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 9 WWD.COM

Victoria Alexander Wang Beckham

collections

2011 NEWfall YORK

Diane von Furstenberg

Tory Burch PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, TODD MATARAZZO AND ROBERT MITRA AND ROBERT GIANNONI, TODD MATARAZZO GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY endless permutations of ponchos, they’re the edgiest Phillips Van Heusen’s chief Emanuel Chirico were looks, were new takes on her back-zipped curvy offerings this side of the Andes. smiling from their banquet seats at The Lion, the numbers with “traveling seams,” including a version in One of the season’s major motifs was Wang’s subtle bohemian luxe hotspot where Hilfi ger’s clothes and, her best-selling dense rib jersey. patchworking, which created degrade-like blends apparently Tommy himself, felt right at home. “It Beckham is answering her customers’ needs in of mismatched fabrics in, for example, the angora would be nice to have this as a living room,” he offered. another way as well, with the addition of outerwear, and satin poncho. There’s news behind this: it’s the though she’s not falling in with the season’s emerging designer’s fi rst season manufacturing knitwear in Victoria Beckham: Some compliments have the ring of anorak army. Rather, she took a polished chic Italy. Wang got cheeky with the accessories as well. His insult: “You look amazing in this picture; I can barely approach to chasing the chill, as with a lovely long models sported eyewear with fl uffy mink straps and tell it’s you.” At some point it’s going to sound insulting sand wool coat with belt-buckle collar. dainty mules covered in fox fur. to note that designer Victoria Beckham, she of the second career, is “the real deal.” But a mere six seasons Tory Burch: Tory Burch loves to get her groove on. Tommy Hilfi ger: Those who believe there are only so into this fashion thing, she still wows with the success The designer continued with last season’s Seventies many ways to do preppy clearly haven’t met Tommy of her crossover. Beckham continued her impressive spotlight, but took things for a new spin by crossing Hilfi ger, whose newest interpretation might just be evolution for fall, on Sunday morning showing a lineup over to the U.K. “It’s English countryside meets his best one yet. “It’s called Indie Prep,” Hilfi ger said that highlighted her increasing sense of ease. Thus she American sportswear,” noted Burch, who also folded in before his men’s show on Friday. “When you mix indie favored “desert brights” and a continued relaxation of a major patchwork motif. Despite fashion’s exhaustive rockers with prepsters, that’s what you get.” silhouette. Beckham fl aunted both right from the start, riffs on the decade, hers was a surprisingly and For fall, he gave his guy a rebellious streak, adding with two magenta dresses, one a linear, below-the-knee delightfully fresh take. There was something cozy cargo details to a suit, military elements to a shearling, “nomad dress” with long sleeves and hood-cum-cowl; about it all, the way Burch took thick nubby tweeds and and pairing a tailored blue blazer with cashmere the other, a short, swingy trapeze. She also showed a cut them into jackets, shifts and fur-collared coats — sweatpants — just how a rebel at a tony Connecticut terrifi c take on the shirtdress (from the front it looked some with raw, fringed edges — and spliced together boarding school might. Outerwear, particularly his like separates) and a charming cashmere sack like the tartan patterns in kilt skirts and a leather-trimmed toggle coats with Pendleton-like stripes, was another one she wore to disguise her pregnancy. shirt with Mongolian fur sleeves. The bow blouses were strong point. With this collection, Hilfi ger is homing Beckham talked about growing in confi dence as particularly charming, not to mention those great wide- in on a men’s wear identity that is young, cool and a woman and as a designer, while at the same time leg palazzo pants with pleats up the sides. Burch also refreshingly not costumey. No wonder Tommy Hilfi ger noting the importance of giving her customers what upped her offerings of nighttime glamour with crystal chief executive offi cer Fred Gehring and parent they’ve come to expect. Thus, along with her loosened embroidery and spangly paillettes on tunics and tops. 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011

Prabal Gurung: Last season Prabal Gurung Prabal Gurung Derek Lam dipped his foot into sportier than usual waters; apparently he decided that pool’s not for him. For fall he again embraced a dressier mood, yet not one that drew a straight line back to the ladyfi ed retro of his fi rst fame. The dif- ference proved delightful. A pink-and- beige stucco runway set the mood for a lineup derived from twin inspirations: John Singer Sargent’s “A Parisian Beggar Girl,” and that infamous, sun-shunning shut-in Miss Havisham who out-Edies both Edie Beales. Gurung loved “Great Expectations” growing up, and for this show he wanted to portray “the precursor characteristics” that led the tragic-batty Miss H. to “unravel in such a crazy way.” Translation: a current of eccentricity, that infused Gurung’s polished lady fare with a newfound youth and modernity. It showed up in shocks of color — a vermilion blouse over tight fuchsia pants — and in the air of pretty dishabille with which the clothes were worn; for example, the sleeve of a rumpled silk party dress falling off of Karlie Klaus’ shoulder. This sense of his character’s involuntary risk-taking (in fact, Gurung was in complete control) allowed the designer to unify a dis- parate array of looks — high-glam fox and chiffon; racy lacy pants; a harness over a froth of angelic feathers — into a collection fi lled with personality. And if once or twice he went too far, overall, it was a pleasure to view such distinctive, pretty clothes that will entice even ultra-proper types to in- dulge in a bit of chic unraveling.

Adam: Talk about being resilient in the face of adversity. A few weeks ago, one of Adam Lippes’ factories in Uruguay burned to the ground — with all his knitwear samples in it, save for one patchwork piece stuck in Customs. The designer quickly tapped a New York knitter to do some last-minute work. The show must go on, right? Lippes’ appealing collection went off without a hitch. He took a restrained hand to a rich theme — Native American culture, inspired by a recent trip to New York’s National Museum of the American Indian — and ren- dered it skillfully. And neither did he veer too rugged or outdoorsy, despite the preva- lent lumberjack plaid motif. Lippes kept the focus on easy, elegant sportswear with a whiff of chic bourgeoisie. Silhouettes were mostly clean and lean (a lace T-shirt with a wool pencil skirt, trousers with shirts but- toned high to the neck) while the ethnic traces were pleasantly subtle with Native American prints and feather embroidery. Even the more sportif fare got a luxe boost — a Baja sweater was cut from thick dou- ble-faced wool and trimmed in leather.

Derek Lam: “I was reading about Balanchine,” Derek Lam noted pre-show. “But this has nothing to do with ballet.” Simon Billy Instead the designer built his collection Spurr Reid around a particular quote from the chore- ographer: “There are no new steps, only new combinations.” That meant tweaking classic American sportswear, which Lam did with new fabric combos (cotton with linen-like canepa; silk poplin and nylon) and reworked proportions and silhouettes. He lopped the sleeves off of a spare coat and curved the hemline so it dropped slightly in the rear, while a long anorak with mink sleeves was clipped in the back for a slight tailcoat effect. Meanwhile, fall’s lay- ering motif, executed to tidy and minimal effect, allowed for a play on lengths. Case in point: the poncho, cropped high in the front, layered over a longer sweater. Pops of bright red — underneath a coat collar or collections the sleeves on a moto jacket, for example— punched up the appealing if mostly safe collection. But by show’s end, Lam let loose NEWfall YORK 2011 with a series of Grecian fl yaway dresses, pleated and draped, including a charming silk chiffon number printed in plaid.

DKNY: Is it a surprise that in the dead of the worst winter in recent memory, the New York collections have had a major outerwear focus? At times and temperatures like this, a coat is your outfi t — just look at all the editors bundled up along the runways this season. There were endless MAGIC MOMENT MAGIC in Las Vegas kicks off today with a slew of new lines and an upbeat outlook. Pages 2 to 10. WWDSTYLE Plus: Coverage of the Salone International de la Lingerie show in Paris. All of the Lights Kanye West may be ducking interviews and trying to avoid photos, but he’s certainly been no stranger to the front row at New York Fashion Week, including the Band of Outsiders show. For more on Band of Outsiders, see page 12.

PHOTO BY MILES LADIN 002 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,MONDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 14, 2011 XX, 2011

Kenzie’s acrylic cardigan and magic sweater, and polyester skirt. Falke socks and Soft Frye boots.

TouchTextural elements are finding their way into everything this season, from easy knits to day dresses and lightweight coats and capes.

Emu Australia’s merino wool coat with leather trim. N MYLES USING NARS COSMETICS AT WWW.BEAUTYWINGNY.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: KELLY FAULDS; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY KIM FRIDAY STYLED BY FAULDS; KELLY ASSISTANT: FASHION WWW.BEAUTYWINGNY.COM; N MYLES USING NARS COSMETICS AT

Rainforest’s wool jacket, Pepe Jeans London’s cotton shirt and Haggar’s wool pants. New Era hat. WOMEN’S: PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNANCCONE. MODEL: HANNAH/MUSE; HAIR BY ANTHONY NADER AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY JE MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY ATELIER ANTHONY NADER AT THOMAS IANNANCCONE. MODEL: HANNAH/MUSE; HAIR BY WOMEN’S: PHOTOS BY

{Continued on page 4} MORE WAYS TO WOW. CHINOS.

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Ambiguous’ nylon jacket, Life After Denim’s wool coat, Perry Ellis’ magic cotton shirt and Lucky Brand’s cotton denim Soft jeans.

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Max and Cleo’s polyester and acrylic tweed dress.

Tulle’s cotton and polyester

dress with ALEX BADIA CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY LUIS SISTANT: David & Young’s acrylic scarf. MEN’S: PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: BRITAIN W/ WILHELMINA; GROOMING BY ANNA BERNABE/EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS/REDKEN; FASHION AS FASHION ARTISTS/REDKEN; ANNA BERNABE/EXCLUSIVE W/ WILHELMINA; GROOMING BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: BRITAIN MEN’S: PHOTOS BY

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8 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 magic Kellan Lutz: Vamping for Dylan George The “Twilight” star adds another role. By Khanh T.L. Tran

AFTER SPORTING nothing but his chis- Here and make its debut this fall with retail prices are the best assets on his muscular 6-foot, eled abs and tighty whities in Calvin Klein right: running from $48 for a basic T, to $148 for 1-inch build, the former high-school quar- underwear ads, “Twilight” star Kellan Kellan Lutz trousers cut out of linen, canvas, brushed terback prefers V-necks and shirts with Lutz is ready to pull on a pair of jeans. wears Dylan twill and wool blends, to $248 for cash- rolled-up sleeves. On the other hand, Lutz, who rose to fame portraying the George, mere hoodies. Dylan George will unveil slim leather jackets feel too constricting, vampire Emmett Cullen in the blockbust- Diesel and the new line, along with its men’s collec- while skinny jeans afford him the unflat- er “Twilight” films and generated much Burberry tion, at the Project Trade Show in Las tering silhouette of a carrot. He doesn’t buzz last year as the latest celebrity Brit. Vegas, part of MAGIC Marketplace. like overly embellished back pockets or poster boy for Calvin Klein, has signed “How cool will that be to create baggy jeans because, he explained, “girls on as the first star spokesmodel for Los my own line?” Lutz pondered in a don’t like sagging jeans.” Angeles-based premium denim label Los Angeles photo studio on a recent A pair of slim straight jeans by Dylan Dylan George. Dressing up from under- Saturday, when he had a four-day break George in a charcoal gray resin coating is wear to jeans might be the next logical from filming the last two films in the Lutz’s favorite pair. “I like the ones that step for the 25-year-old actor, who will “Twilight” series in Louisiana. “I grew can be dress pants,” he said. “I don’t like front Dylan George’s new men’s line up wanting to be an inventor. I went to to be loud. I like fitting in and not draw- launching this fall. Yet, Lutz is also ex- school for chemical engineering. I love ing attention. Simplicity is key.” panding his repertoire by trying his hand to create. I’ve always wanted to get into Plus, details such as the contour yoke at design in a collaboration with Dylan fashion. I’ve always liked drawing, not and similarly arced back pockets on George’s founder, Daniel Guez. Space Age stuff but high fashion.” the Dylan George jeans help accentu- Guez, whose previous foray into ce- A fan of Diesel and John Varvatos, ate Lutz’s backside. “It doesn’t need to lebrity collaborations was launching Lutz serves as the inspiration for the be supertight around the butt,” he said. William Rast with Justin Timberlake snug Henleys, chest-baring V-neck tops “Complement your butt instead of hid- and Trace Ayala six years ago, is part- and vests for Abbot & Main. He is drawn ing it.” nering with Lutz on a new collection of to a neutral palette of navy, gray, black It took a few years for Lutz to form men’s T-shirts, cashmere knits and pants and olive green, one which he also plans his own set of fashion rules. under a subbrand called Abbot & Main to integrate in Abbot & Main, along with “In L.A., you’re always being judged by by Dylan George. Named after a street a deep red that reminds him of sunsets what you wear,” he said. “I pretty much intersection in Venice, Calif., near Lutz’s during his childhood in Arizona. knew L.A. was the denim capital of the home, the collection of 25 pieces will Aware that his shoulders and chest world. Some of the trends I tried, I didn’t

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like. They were supertight. People said, William Rast. He closed Dylan George’s Guez, photographer Yu Tsai and Lutz’s long- ‘You’re important; you have to look a certain men’s division altogether after one season time manager, Ryan Daly, Lutz will play a way in $300 and $400 jeans.’ This was when to focus on the growing women’s business, role inspired by Hollywood’s legendary lead- I learned that I need to dress comfortably.” which is now carried by national retailers ing men Steve McQueen, Marlon Brando and Mugging for the camera isn’t new for including Nordstrom and Piperlime.com, in Robert Redford, surrounded by macho props Lutz. He started modeling at age 14 for addition to specialty stores such as E Street like muscle cars and motorcycles. the department store Dillard’s while still Denim in Highland Park, Ill., and Madison Besides billboards on L.A.’s Sunset in high school in Arizona. He walked the in Los Angeles. Strip and in New York’s Times Square, runways in New York, Milan, Paris and Guez expects not only to place his re- the ads also will be splashed on online London until he quit under pressure that vamped men’s line, which will retail be- gossip pages such as JustJared.com and he wasn’t skinny enough. His all-Amer- tween $178 and $228, within his current PerezHilton.com, denim blogs and so- ican looks helped him snag some high- retail network that sells the women’s cial media sites including Twitter and profile denim campaigns with Levi’s and denim, but also to sign new accounts like Facebook. Behind-the-scenes video also Abercrombie & Fitch. When Lutz made Bloomingdale’s, which will start selling will be posted on Dylan George’s Web site. the link between Guez and William Rast, Dylan George’s men’s and women’s styles for Dylan George plans to unleash Lutz’s he felt more confident to delve into his first fall. He declined to provide sales estimates ads in August, ahead of the Nov. 18 release fashion design collaboration. for the men’s business and Abbot & Main, of “The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn — “I loved Justin Timberlake’s William however. He says international distribu- Part 1.” Guez also aims to capitalize on Rast,” he says. “I grew up dancing to Justin tors for Dylan George in Canada, the U.K., publicity for Lutz’s other fall blockbuster; Timberlake in church. I thought it’d be Greece, Australia and Germany have already “Immortals,” a $115 million action movie fun to do something like that. It’s amazing committed to picking up Abbot & Main. in which Lutz portrays Greek god Poseidon [Guez and I] have the same taste. The style “I love that because I’m going to all alongside Mickey Rourke, Stephen Dorff is the same as mine. We have fun. We have those places [to promote ‘Twilight’],” Lutz and Freida Pinto, will hit theaters a week a lot of chemistry.” said. before “Twilight.” As the rapport between designer and Synergy is a crucial component “I feel that [Lutz is] on the same road muse is important, so is the connection be- for Dylan George’s marketing strat- as Mark Wahlberg,” Guez said, referring tween the celebrity spokesmodel and Dylan egy. Feeding on the fan frenzy for the to another former Calvin Klein under- George’s 18- to 45-year-old customers. “Twilight” films, which have grossed more wear model who’s since jumped onto “A guy needs to relate to the person [in than $1.72 billion worldwide at the box Hollywood’s A-list. the ads],” Guez said. “Kellan’s a guy’s guy. office, Guez plans to place the new Dylan No matter what the comparisons are, Guys want to be friends with him and girls George ads featuring Lutz in glossy maga- Lutz acknowledged that he should be him- want to be with him.” zines that also will write about the actor’s self, comfortable in his own skin — and With Lutz, who has signed an 18-month role in the upcoming fourth film of the five- clothes. deal with Dylan George, Guez is reentering part franchise. “It’s your face in front of the camera,” he the men’s market this fall after a three-year The line between film and fashion also said. “You have to look confident and feel absence. Guez offered men’s jeans when he will be blurred on Dylan George’s fall ad confident. At the end of the day, it’s about introduced the brand in 2008, after leaving campaign. With a script written by Lutz, comfort. You have to be in clothes all day.”

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BB Dakota’s polyester, wool and acrylic cape; polyester top, and polyester and rayon trousers. Robert Clergerie brogues.

Obey’s leather jacket, Analog’s wool sweater, Ambiguous’ cotton T-shirt and DKNY Jeans’ cotton denim jeans. WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 11 innerwear/accessories Fifties Style a Leader at SIL By ALEX WYNNE burlesque trend is helping our business.” Harriet Wilkes, owner of Barbarella in Worcester, PARIS — Glamour and voluptuous looks underscored England, said she was after special brands like by vintage styles from the Fifties was the message at Maison Close in order to differentiate her boutique last month’s Salon International de la Lingerie trade from department stores. show here. Shapewear in particular was a strong cat- Aubade’s European textile and apparel sales in France grew egory with key launches such as Wacoal’s in- retro bra, 0.9 percent in 2010, and further growth is anticipated troduction of Beauty Secret Slim, which the briefs and this year, said Eurovet project manager Cécile Vivier, brand claims combats cellulite with microen- garters. who cited figures from the Institut Français de Mode. capsulated caffeine. As a result, brands embraced the post-recessionary Large-size specialists also featured pin- period with more adventurous silhouettes and colors up girl themes in addition to shapewear. than in recent seasons for fall at the fair. Empreinte introduced what it de- The optimistic outlook did not bolster visitor atten- scribed as a technological breakthrough dance at the Salon fair and Interfiliere Textiles venue, — exclusive molded bra cups of Guipure which was 2.7 percent lower than last year’s edition, lace for the Diva line the company de- totaling 29,134 visitors. veloped over the past 18 months, said But Vivier noted, “We saw a lot more decision-mak- marketing and creative director Magalie ers. For example, Nordstrom, which only sent their Lagathu. Suggested retail for the bra will private label buyer last year, but this year the buyer be 100 euros, or $136, and a bodysuit will for finished products also came.” sell for 250 euros, or $341. In the U.S., In design terms, a number of brands moved away Empreinte is sold at Intimacy and Rigby from classic black-and-white and displayed varying & Peller in the U.K. hues of blue, green and gray, as well as lots of red Meanwhile, Triumph celebrated its tones. Passionata, a young contemporary brand, staged 125th anniversary with the launch of a Fifties-themed fashion shows with the models wearing luxury line, Triumph Essence, which fea- retro aprons, horn-rimmed glasses, red lipstick and a tures Guipure and Chantilly lace and em- Looks from cupcake backdrop. Another French brand, Aubade, broidered details. The company hosted a Empreinte. which also drew inspiration from the Fifties, saw runway show featuring Helena Christensen, global sales in 2010 rise by 10 percent with the U.S. the new collection’s spokeswoman. business generating a 35 percent increase, according “The reaction from buyers has been very to the brand’s director, Claire Masson. enthusiastic,” said brand and marketing man- Sonja Winther, president of Chantelle North ager Emilie Kaufmann. In France, distribution America and U.K., said the range for Chantelle, which will be limited to multibrand stores and high- featured a retro cone bra in stitched lace with high- end department store Le Bon Marché, said waisted briefs, was inspired by the late actress Romy Kaufmann. Details about international dis- Schneider. tribution were not available. Suggested retail “That whole hourglass Fifties silhouette is giving will be 70 to 75 euros for bras, or $95 to $102, an enhanced interest in getting a bra fitting. In 2005, and 35 to 45 euros for briefs, or $48 to $61. Oprah Winfrey told American women about the impor- The spring 2012 season was featured at the tance of being fitted, and that has been a huge boost to Interfiliere textiles and lace fair with a trend service-oriented brands,” said Winther. “Any product exhibit that showcased a feminine, romantic with feminine details has been popular. Shapewear statement in pastel shades. has also been a huge trend. The American market has However, Valerie Dhellemmes, style co- evolved toward more femininity. We have introduced ordinator for French mass market apparel the consumer to a different approach to lingerie, and chain La Halle, said she was not impressed convinced her that it is much more than just a func- with the colors on show, saying, “There is no tional garment.” real positioning [in colors].…But I found the fabrics Also surfing the retro trend was young French and the prints more interesting.” brand Maison Close, founded in 2007. The burlesque In these troubled times, when raw materials prices label put on music hall-inspired shows with upcoming are continuing their upward curve, companies like performer Mademoiselle Viviane throughout the day. France’s D&D, a first-time exhibitor, offered new ways Maison Close, sold in upscale boutiques like La of enhancing quality and value to fabrics through Petite Coquette in New York, offers a collection of high-tech laser cutting and a wide range of trims. sexy, layerable pieces and accessories. The brand is “We work with Nina Ricci, Gap and Cacharel in diversifying its color offering away from classic black ready-to-wear, but we are trying to position ourselves and into white, powder pink and gray. in the lingerie market, for which our main client Bénédicte Dupont, customer care manager for for the moment is Erès,” said sales representative

Lovely Planet, Maison Close’s distributor, said, “The Baptiste Vallet. DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY Olsens Collaborate with Toms Shoes By MARC KARIMZADEH he sold, he would match a pair for a over the years, have become style child who needed them. icons for their fashion sensibility, also NEW YORK — First, it was the per- “We feel it’s really important to launched the contemporary Elizabeth fect T-shirt; then, the iconic sun- spread awareness of the Toms One and James line and the junior and glasses, and now, Mary-Kate and for One mission,” Ashley Olsen said. tween Olsenboye line at J.C. Penney. Ashley Olsen are delving into shoes. “For every pair of Toms + The Row The collaboration with Toms is The two are continuing to build shoes sold, a child in need will re- another step in the Olsens’ aim to their designer label The Row, an d ceive a new pair of shoes. Toms build The Row into an American for fall, they are collaborating with + The Row customers will have luxury lifestyle brand. For philanthropy-driven Toms Shoes. The the ability to give back and create Mycoskie, the collaboration will partnership resulted in three groups change with a single purchase.” help heighten the exposure of his of shoes that offer a new take on “The giving is immediate,” charitable mission. Toms’ espadrilles. Toms + The Row Mary-Kate Olsen added. “Having “We recognize that it’s a luxury shoes will be available in plaid, wool- the opportunity to be a part of to be able to give, and everyone at cashmere and herringbone, at a sug- something so meaningful has made Toms takes this to heart,” he said. gested retail price from $98 to $150. the collaboration with Toms spe- “The feeling we get from being able Blake Mycoskie founded Toms cial to everyone at The Row.” to give new pairs of shoes to chil- Shoes in 2006 after coming across The Olsens launched The Row dren in need is extraordinary, and an Argentine village on his trav- in 2007 with the idea of creating a with The Row, we’ve found a part- els that was so poor its children perfect T-shirt. Since then, the line ner whose amazing interpretation didn’t even have shoes. It inspired has evolved into eveningwear, out- of our classic alpargata has truly Mycoskie to launch Toms based on erwear, knits, men’s wear and sun- taken our product to an entirely Shoes from Toms + The Row. the idea that, for every pair of shoes glasses, and the two designers, who, new level.” 0012 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,MONDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 14, 2011 XX, 2011

Jared Leto Scott Sternberg and Kirsten Dunst at the Band of eye Outsiders dinner.

Michelle Harper at The Standard. Packing Them In AS SATURDAY NIGHT gave way to Sunday morning, two parties on the west side of Manhattan vied for the attention of the city’s most fashionable partygoers. At The Standard, Purple Magazine lived up to its raucous rep with a takeover of the 18th floor for a bash co-hosted by Zac Posen. The designer was present and accounted for, as was his branding Humberto Leon with — splashed across the windows of the vertigo-inducing bathrooms. Posen Patrik Ervell at the shimmied energetically in a booth with friends, among them Constance Band of Outsiders dinner. Jablonski and Lily Donaldson. Irina Lazareanu chatted up Max Snow as Stavros Niarchos, P.C. Valmorbida and their merry band of blonde friends bandied bottles of Belvedere about. Anouck Lepere Mary-Kate Olsen gave photographers the slip as she darted into their booth. Chloë Sevigny didn’t seem particularly interested in the melee or most of the shows, explaining that she was attending “Imitation of Christ and Proenza. That’s it,” before turning back to the crowded bar and waiting to be served. Across the room, Alexander Wang and ever-present crew were celebrating the designer’s much-lauded show that afternoon, and dancing like maniacs. Miraculously, no drinks were spilled. A tribal- Donald poncho-sporting Jared Leto ditched his suited security men and posed Glover at for pictures, complaining to no one in particular, “Why is my ex- the Band of girlfriend here?!” before waving to a departing Anouck Lepere. Outsiders The crowd seemed to multiply exponentially with each passing dinner. hour. Jason Wu and Erin Wasson were near the coat check when one model-esque reveler had had enough, punching a petite female guest in the face like she was an extra from “The Fighter.” A few blocks away, United Bamboo and Dossier Journal staged a slightly more subdued affair at The Jane. Kirsten Dunst, Donald Glover, Eddie Borgo and Momofuku chef David Chang all turned out for a DJ set from Karen O and Nick Zinner of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. Dunst and Ms. O arrived a little after midnight, as a swarm of eager party people stood at the bottom of the hotel’s imposing front steps only to hear a bouncer tell them they’d do better to look for entertainment elsewhere. The cool kids lucky enough to get in got to know each other very, very well. A few of the faces in the crowd at The Jane had assembled earlier in the evening at East Village burger joint Zaitzeff for a dinner celebrating Scott Sternberg’s first Band of Outsiders runway show. “Just Scott, Patrik [Ervell] and Rodarte — Laura and Kate’s show,” Dunst said when asked which shows she planned to attend this week. “It’s like the Berkeley trinity, actually, well no, not Scott,” she continued, noting the Mulleavy sisters and Ervell were all U.C. Berkeley alums. “I mean, I sat with Humberto [Leon] at the two shows I went to today,” she said, citing the Opening Ceremony co-owner, another Golden Bear. Save the Mulleavys, all the friends Dunst had listed gathered at the dinner, which had a very laid-back feel as roving waiters took orders and guests were left to their own devices to find place settings. Did Dunst have plans to indulge in what one partygoer had called the best eye burger in New York? “Too bad I ate before I came here,” the actress said, before displaying another West Coast bias. “In-N-Out’s the best burger, I think.” Karen O FOR MORE PARTY PICTURES, SEE WWD.com/ EYESCOOP.

Chloë Aurel Schmidt at Alexander Wang Zac Posen Sevigny The Standard. KAREN O PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERS BY STEVE EICHNER LEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERS BY KAREN O PHOTO BY WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 11 FOR FULL COVERAGE WWD.COM OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, SEE Philosophy Adam excellent choices on offer for next season di Alberta at DKNY. Donna Karan did them tailored Ferretti and graphic, like the black styles with a bold WWD.com/ white panel across the chest, adding a little FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS. edge with leather sleeves. Toward the end there were knit puffers and furs, such as the cheetah print shearling. With the exception of the tailored cape jackets that were meant to be thrown over the shoulders just so — but begged for somewhere to put your arms — it was all sharp and suitable for everyday use. Same goes for what was worn underneath. Karan worked up chunky knits with a peppy tomboyish flare: bright cardigan dresses and slouchy striped crewnecks were worn with tailored trousers, tapered and flared. The collection had range.

Band of Outsiders: Showing three separate collections on a single runway could prove cumbersome for many, but creative direc- tor Scott Sternberg revved up his California cool, threw the Doors’ “Riders on the Storm” on the stereo and sent his Band of Outsiders, Boy and Girl lines out to play — and it was good, very good. Band of Outsiders (the men’s collection) had a preppy/outdoorsy/ Seventies thing going, with quilted wind- breakers and corduroy suits, as well as the occasional French terry tracksuit worn with a blanket coat and Sperry boat moc- casins. As for the two women’s collections, Boy fit right in, yet was a little bit grungier (Ali Sheedy’s “Breakfast Club” character Band of was the inspiration) with rabbit hair coats, Outsiders layers of sweatshirts, oxfords and T-shirts topping cargo pajama pants and lust-worthy hiking boots. Meanwhile, Girl also featured layering but with star-printed silk shirts and baby-doll dresses. There was a lot to take in, DKNY but Sternberg made it work.

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti has taken to thematic binges for her Philosophy collection lately. For spring, it was Asia. This time, she indulged in Sixties kitsch of the “Belle du Jour” camp. Everything was doused in Easter-egg pas- tels and came as a matchy-matchy set. Each model, styled with a bouffant ponytail and sheer stockings with seams down the back, walked out with a coat on — mini A-lines or a trapeze in fur and mohair — which came off on the return, revealing either a little shift, a bell dress or cropped pants with a matching top. Such a retro look was clearly the inten- tion, but if anything was current, it was the dresses more than the coats. Both were sug- ary sweet and best suited for someone young.

Billy Reid: After winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund last November, there were high hopes for Billy Reid, and the Alabama designer didn’t disappoint. For fall, he added subtle upgrades to his aesthetic, including extrafine corduroy and shoulder roping for Band of form-fitting double-breasted blazers. It all Outsiders Boy gave his signature workwear a fresh polish. “I wanted to make everything perfect,” Reid Lela said at the presentation. For women, Reid Rose took a more glamorous route with gathered silk chiffon dresses and silk organza coats.

Lela Rose: Lela Rose is poised to make a splash on the red carpet with her beautiful and intricate embroidered dresses and dip dyed ombré gowns but the designer offered up plenty for day as well. Inspired by the imagery seen in the works of contemporary artist Gerhard Richter, Rose used hazy, painterly prints on everything from straight skirts and strict seamed dresses to tailored trousers and peplum frocks. The double- faced outerwear was strong and oh so chic, but her sculpted shoulder knits felt forced.

Simon Spurr: Savile Row has long served as a key guiding force for Simon Spurr, but the British designer stepped out of his comfort zone for fall. That’s not to say that he forsook his signature tailoring skills. Sticking largely to a gray and black palette, Spurr offered a flannel morning suit with slim jeans and a cummerbund, a hooded leather popover jacket and a cropped belted tunic, which, when styled with knitted knight hoods, gave the collection a refreshing Seventies vibe. That said, coated metallic T-shirts and feathers peeking out from under a blazer were inconsistent with

Spurr’s distinct “Return of the Jedi” feel. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 12 FOR FULL COVERAGE OF NEW YORK Malandrino: Torn between two FASHION WEEK, SEE loves, Paris and New York, Malandrino Catherine Malandrino found a way to fuse her worlds seam- lessly, capturing the romance WWD.com/ of Paris and the eccentricity of FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS. the Left Bank and mixing it in with the rhythm of New York. Furs were everywhere from luxe chinchilla wraps to edgy mink and leather cropped jack- ets. In an ode to men’s wear, she showed oversize plaids and exaggerated houndstooth pat- terns on trousers, dresses and skirts. Of course, Malandrino also included her signature bohemian crafty pieces in knits and leathers, while she looked to the Seventies for her long and lean evening dresses.

Max Azria: With this collection, Max and Lubov Azria expanded their reach with looks that may appeal to a woman who wants to add a bit of edge this season. There were sweeping, floor- length shirtdresses and super- long turtlenecks shown with fluid georgette evening pants. A slightly rakish feel prevailed in their more classic sportswear looks, evident in an army green utility suit.

Daryl K: The urban cool girl, all effortless streetwear at- titude, is an immensely popu- lar look that’s bordering on ubiquity these days. That said, authenticity is everything. So while Daryl Kerrigan’s fall collection was full of familiar motifs — leather leggings, utilitary outerwear and army green — she kind of owns it. The great clothes drew on her comfort zone in more ways than one — the woodsy print that appeared on sturdy jack- ets, ponchos and skirts was in- spired by her country house, where show notes said she feels most at peace. Among the tough stuff was a smatter- ing of girlish moments: A knit cardigan sprinkled with flow- ers at the shoulder and a gold Max Azria tulle dress done in metallic embroidery had the effect of Antonio

▲ Timo ▼ genuine personality. So when Azzuolo Kerrigan mixed in real women Weiland with the models, they looked believable and comfortable, as if they were wearing their own clothes.

Elise Overland: From a rink filled with a giant sculpture and dozens of skaters, including a dazzling perfomance by Johnny Weir, it was clear Elise Overland was inspired by ice. “Not in a cold way but in a glossy, frosty way,” she said. Thankfully, the clothes didn’t get lost in such an over-the-top presentation. Standouts included feathered coats, a peach jacket with fur sleeves, short and sexy gathered dresses and printed pieces based on the reflection of light passing through ice.

G-Star NY Raw: With a snowy backdrop and runway, designer Pierre Morisset sent his mod- els marching into battle with all sorts of military riffs; the gold buttoned topcoats and harnesses and collars padded to resemble flotation devices pushed the sentiment further. The women’s looks leaned to- ward austere with high collars, fitted bodices and slim cropped legs, while the men’s wear was structured as in a stiff wool pullover or wax-coated jeans in the brand’s signature rounded leg shape. WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 13 WWD.COM

Threeasfour: The Threeasfour

Daryl K ▲ G-Star ▼ collection by Gabi Asfour, NY Raw Angee Donhauser and Adi Gil was as one might imag- ine: a great acid trip. It was inspired by “resonance,” Asfour explained. Along with the eerie music and a projection of swirling infi nity circles, the models walked in total darkness where much of the press was seated. A backstage viewing of the collection was a must — and well worth it. Sure these are clothes for a cult customer, but this line is about how well they’re made. Jersey bodysuits were shown with a small working harp worn as a belt; embroidered wool pinstriped suits with a cross-body bag made out of a recycled violin, and para- chute dresses featured hems held up by strings attached to metal shoulder straps. The collection was, as Asfour explained, “a return to our roots.” It was equal parts wacky and wonderful.

Timo Weiland: Colonial times in India produced a mar- riage between traditionally tailored clothing and the exotic. With that pairing in mind, Timo Weiland and his partner, Alan Eckstein, formed their latest collec- tion. A brazen Bengal tiger print jacket went beauti- fully with an angora peplum sweater and slim metallic pants, while ladylike gowns, a category the duo intends to pursue more of in the future, boasted a vibrant Himalayan landscape print. For men, the references were more subtle. Moroccan tile print shirts and jac- quard dot sweaters mixed collections with glen plaid suits and skinny tuxedo pants with Elise Threeasfour hems left raw offered a bit of ease. Overland NEWfall YORK 2011 MM6 Maison Martin Margiela for Opening Ceremony: The clash of two conceptual titans re- sulted in a cool collection of 20 basics — including bags, shoes and stirrup legwarm- NNACCONE AND SCOTT RUDD ers — that aren’t always what they seem. The idea was three-in-one, based on the Margiela keystone of “recuperation, transforma- tion and reinterpretation,” according to the show notes. So a quilted black leather jacket came with a lining that is also a jacket on its own; what looked like a solid red dress was actually a tank dress layered over a black one with red sleeves; the sleeves of a crisp white shirt were black on the lower arm giving the impression of a blazer when worn with a black vest, and so on. As much as the clothes hinged on a concept, everything was extremely wearable…except perhaps the legwarmers.

Antonio Azzuolo: “A return to elegance and glamour from the Thirites” was Antonio Azzuolo’s inspiration for fall. His continental signature blazers were updated with Persian lamb lapels. Pop- MM6 Maison over anoraks, mini capes Martin with hoodies and classic Margiela linton tweed jackets were for Opening among the highlights that Ceremony showcased the classic refer-

PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, JIMI CELESTE, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IA GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, CENTENO, JIMI CELESTE, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY ences with a modern edge. 14 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 FOR FULL COVERAGE OF NEW YORK Cynthia Rowley: The art world came out in full FASHION WEEK, SEE force to see Cynthia Rowley’s collaboration with artist Ryan McNamara — including Richard Phillips, Kalup Linzy, Rashid Johnson, Tom Sachs and Tim Barber. But if you were WWD.com/ expecting McNamara to lead the crowd in an FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS. impromptu dance session, like he did at his show at MoMA PS1 last summer, think again. He and Rowley produced what the designer called “the idea of the fashion factory.” The gist? A model walked past the runway entrance in her skivvies; a second later, out came the first look. The process repeated throughout the show as if the models were getting dressed instantly. This is fashion, all assembly line and automated, was their message. And while the art tack continued in the collection itself — those cubist geometrics on a wrap skirt, for instance — the major thematic push was dark and disintegrating decadence. On the successful side: the velvet and velveteen draped dresses and Seventies suitings, which Rowley had partly shaved down to the bare silks and cottons, as well as the brief nods to chinoiserie in those high-collar tops. Less exciting were the voluminous smocklike dresses and jumpsuits.

Jill Stuart: It’s into the woods we go as Jill Stuart takes her girl on a forest fantasy. Inspired by a dark, wintery fairy tale, the designer went literal with owl and fox scenic prints on dresses, tops and skirts. A bit quirky, yes, but then she turned out some stellar looks in woodland tones, such as the lush tweed coats and skirts, the rich suede-and-leather combination dresses and all the fun color-blocked pleated frocks, sometimes shown in metallics.

N.Hoolywood: Daisuke Obana brought a breath of fresh air to fashion week with his first runway show at the Park Avenue Armory. Obana has shown a clear passion for period dressing, starting last season with his Twenties mug-shots collection. This time around, he drew inspiration from the early 1900s classic mountain-climbing style; he played with proportions evident in voluminous outerwear with short cape silhouettes, inventive trench hybrids and wide-leg pants cropped under the knee. Although at times it felt a bit costumey, Obana’s use of traditional herringbones and tweeds mixed with lush cable-knit sweaters brought the collection back to modern times.

Libertine: Designer Johnson Hartig wasn’t kidding when he said he hadn’t met a color he didn’t like. He sent out an explosion of hues, all electric, kicky and psychedelic. In his first solo show since splitting up with partner Cindy Greene, Hartig kept the label’s core reworked-vintage theme but made things fresh by silk-screening Cynthia Rowley Jill Stuart those colored brights in gridlike patterns on garments. The prints, added on in a haphazard fashion, made everything pop — from the beefy lumberjack plaid coats and Sixties shift (with its own groovy print peeking from beneath) to allover sequin jackets, crinkle chiffon dresses and Fifties-style frocks. The unflattering exception: a blouse with the exaggerated puff- sleeve shoulders. On the (relatively) tamer side were graphic black-and-white versions, including some fun men’s wear jackets, suits, coats and slim trousers.

Robert Geller: In his show notes, Robert Geller cited Luchino Visconti’s cinematography as a source of inspiration — that’s if you take Helmut Berger and place him in David Bowie’s Berlin of the Seventies. It appeals to a certain audience below East 14th Street, but the rich- bohemian, androgynous sensibility — with gray leather trenchcoats, pleated pants or skinny jeans — could be a tough sell elsewhere.

Edun: Forging an identity for Edun — the LVMH- owned, ethically minded line brought to you by Bono — is a unique challenge. What is it? Luxury? Celebrity/rock ’n’ roll? Eco-friendly? Although the line has been around since 2005, the answer is still unclear. Sharon Wauchob, the creative director now in her second season, doesn’t seem interested in pursuing the young, rockerish slant the brand started with — no loss there. She put her energy in “iconic pieces” — such as Fair Isle sweaters, utilitarian parkas and printed scarf dresses — that reflected her own sensibility. The look was everyday wearable but with a strong attitude — a little earthy but nowhere near crunchy. Knits were some of the Patrik Richard N. Hoolywood best, which is saying a lot coming off last fall in Chai Ervell which Fair Isle was huge. Tops came in chunky, WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 15 WWD.COM

boxy shapes and wispy webs that covered the tomboy and the Edun Libertine femme. Perhaps more interesting were the woven skirts, long and short, done in tweedy textures, some with a little fringe that had a subtle tribal effect. After all, Edun is committed to supporting African trade.

Patrik Ervell: Patrik Ervell put out his most concise message yet, with a collection that homed in on the parachute theme. He offered multiple bomber jackets — one in parachute silk with a hood as well as a knitted version. He also added more fabrics like flannels and tweed to his lineup yet closed his show with a pleather parachute bodysuit. The look may not be for everyone but is nevertheless a bold statement that underscores Ervell’s willingness to try something new.

Richard Chai: In his fall men’s collection, Richard Chai mainly stuck to a gray palette with some strong outerwear pieces — a peacoat with a raised belt and plaids on a parachute coat looked fresh. That said, his use of coat fl annels for pants felt heavy, and the bird prints on shirts and pajama pants didn’t connect to the rest of the lineup. They brought a sense of disarray that wasn’t in his winning women’s contemporary line last week. Perhaps it’s time to bring a little more of that Love to his men.

Gant by Michael Bastian: Since he spends so much time at the Gant headquarters in Sweden, Michael Bastian looked to the Nordic winters as inspiration for his sophomore attempt at women’s wear. He combined his take on “modern Swedish heritage” with the preppy American one that has become Gant’s signature — and the two worlds meshed together oh so well. Highlights included cozy knits, shrunken shearling bombers, a wool schoolgirl dress and sweet plaid tops. Meanwhile, Bastian’s slim-fi t men’s pieces mixed a vintage feel with technical elements. A fi tted, double- breasted navy blazer was paired with camoufl age pants, and a shawl collar red corduroy tuxedo jacket with pinstripe jeans. “It’s the way they put things together in Stockholm,” Bastian said. “I have never seen a group of people work the winter like the Swedish.”

Kimberly Ovitz: Not all designer inspiration comes from a happy place. Kimberly Ovitz said that after a friend passed away in Brazil she began researching the country, which eventually led to the collection’s thematic anchor: Oscar Niemeyer’s curvilinear architecture for the city of Brasilia. Ovitz, who showed at New York’s Pace Gallery and collections also launched a lower-priced collection of jersey dresses named Series, is no stranger to the art infl uence — it often gives her work its conceptual edge; past inspirations have NEWfall YORK 2011 included Sol LeWitt and Jasper Johns. But this time, she pushed Niemeyer’s sensual curves to the sexy, heat-seeking limit. Dresses came short and body-conscious tight, served with two-tone visual interest or a draped twist in the front. Robert She also took the collection on a Rick Owens-meets-concrete Geller jungle detour — the slouchy, layered sweaters; the coat with a wide, swinging lapels — as well as sportier terrain in tech Kimberly fabrics and oversize sweatshirts. It was a bold push for the Gant by Ovitz designer, which, though not without hiccups, proved Ovitz is Michael ready to take some risks. Bastian

Academy of Art University: For the San Francisco-based school’s tenth biannual runway show, students displayed a penchant for all things dark and moody. Hurst Chang-Wei Lin, M.F.A. in fashion design, sent out a short-sleeve jacket with a slim chain-mail skirt that had a surprising sense of ease while keeping with his alchemist inspiration. Jonathan David Becker, B.F.A. fashion design and M.F.A. knitwear, has interned with Rodarte and turned his love of underground Japanese culture into a dramatic collection of hand-knit coats, lace knit tops and haphazardly layered pleated organza skirts that wowed the crowd. But perhaps the most intriguing was B.F.A. graphic design and M.F.A. knitwear student Stephanie Gelot. Born and raised in Ontario, Canada, she referenced global nomads in her beautiful knit confections with cocoon sweaters that topped full skirts and leggings, all tonal in color and just the ticket for the cold days ahead.

Looks from Stephanie Gelot, left, and Jonathan David Becker. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 16 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011

MEMO PAD know. It’s very attractive, but if you in electronic form with a very he said. But first he’s going skiing fun e-mailer,” said Stein. Story said read the articles, they’re 600 words condescending view of the audience.” in Utah. “I’ve never been skiing so he wanted to talk to Stein about a BLASTING THE DAILY: Slate long and they sort of digest what Weisberg recited one of his I might, uh, die,” he said. He was position at the magazine that was chairman Jacob Weisberg certainly you know already. favorite tweets to the students: speaking over the phone from home opening up, Stein remembered, didn’t mince words about Rupert “It’s a daily, it’s once a day,” he the time he told editors at The last Wednesday after eating a plate of “and I said ‘F--k, yes.’” Murdoch’s new baby The Daily in continued. “They say they break in Daily “imagine your readers are as midafternoon crepes. Stein succeeds Stein’s first charge will be to a lecture to journalism students at and update it for big news, but did smart as you are.” Andrew Sessa, who left the redesign the magazine’s Blackbook Columbia University last Thursday. they update it five times today to point Daily editor Jesse Angelo did magazine to become the managing section in the front. He said he Looking very professorial standing out that [Egyptian president Hosni] not return a request for comment. editor of West Elm in December. enjoyed the magazine’s “abstract behind the podium in a blazer and Mubarak was going to resign though — ZEKE TURNER Stein wrote the cover story of intellectual side,” which allows it to blue jeans, with a low-hanging scarf he didn’t in fact resign, what’s the the November/December issue of do more stories about “journeys” around his neck, he said of News response to that? No, they may have ARRIVAL, DEPARTURE: Joshua Departures about the Lambs Club. and fewer articles about the “10 Corp.’s new iPad newspaper, “It updated it at some point. It’s a digest, David Stein — he of the wandering After the story ran, he bumped into best honeymoon beaches” because represents everything that I hope it doesn’t have an active relationship freelancer’s byline — will be settling editor in chief Richard David Story it doesn’t have to worry about you will steer clear of as journalists [with the news] that we’ve come to down at Departures in American at a benefit for the Bocuse d’Or at newsstand. Stein said he has been and people who think about news in expect. There’s no commenting, no Express Publishing headquarters on Daniel Boulud’s restaurant on East a fan of Departures “as long as I’ve relation to technology. I mean, first social media, no links out. ” Avenue of the Americas next week as 65th Street. The two were friends had an AmEx platinum because you of all the content itself is very low- But how did he really feel? “It’s a senior travel editor. “I am going to from a lunch date at The Standard can’t get Departures without that.” brow, facile, kind of USA Today, you just a bad version of a newspaper ride my pony into the Hippodrome,” months earlier. “He’s a funny and — Z.T.

BEAUTY BEAT New Markets Lead Growth At L’Oréal PARIS — Less than 24 hours after L’Oréal first said he would add the role of chairman to his cur- rent position of chief executive officer starting next month, Jean- Paul Agon addressed financial analysts and journalists during a three-hour conference Friday. Speaking at L’Oréal headquar- ters in the Paris suburb of Clichy, Agon reviewed the company’s recent financials. As reported, L’Oréal’s fourth-quarter 2010 sales rose 11.4 percent to 5 billion euros, or $6.77 billion at average exchange. The company’s full- year net profits spiked 24.9 per- cent to 2.24 billion euros, or $2.98 billion, and its sales in the period climbed 11.6 percent to 19.5 bil- lion euros, or $25.89 billion. Agon said the worldwide cosmetics market returned to growth in 2010, with the increase estimated at 4 percent. For 2011, the gain could be in the order of 3 percent to 4 percent. “In the medium and long term, we are very confident about the sustainable development po- tential of the cosmetics market, whose global growth may even ac- celerate because of the increas- ingly important weight of the new markets in which the emergence of the middle class is boosting the consumption of beauty products,” said Agon, referring to markets outside of Western Europe and North America. During 2011, L’Oréal will open subsidiaries in Saudi Arabia and Nigeria. The firm reached a milestone in China in 2010, when its revenues there surpassed 1 billion euros, or $1.35 billion at current exchange. The country became L’Oréal’s third largest market worldwide. “In 2011, for the first time, the new markets may be the group’s number-one zone for sales,” continued Agon. Agon called Lindsay Owen- Jones, L’Oréal’s outgoing chair- man, “the great architect and great builder of the international success of the L’Oréal company.” Owen-Jones will no longer have an operational role at the company starting March 17, when he becomes its honorary chairman. However, Owen-Jones will remain chairman of the L’Oréal Foundation. — JENNIFER WEIL WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 17 WWD.COM Scarves ACCESSORIES from the House of Waris. Waris Ahluwalia Rolling Out Scarves By LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON what it necessitated to get it done, that’s what it necessi- tated for me to learn about it to the quality and the level NEW YORK — Jewelry designer, actor and social Waris that I demand.” he said. Ahluwalia is sticking his neck into the fashion circus His jewelry is intricate, handworked, and based in with a colorful launch of scarves. gold, diamonds and rubies, with a strong design link to In vivid blues, greens, pinks, yellows and grays, the his Indian heritage. At the time of its launch in 2006, wraps are in embroidered cashmere and silk and the House of Waris sold on the fine jewelry floor of Bergdorf techniques used to create them are sourced from India, Goodman, the youngest designer among jewelry giants where Ahluwalia was born. such as Verdura and Roberto Coin. (Bergdorf ’s stopped Ahluwalia decided to expand his label, the House of selling Ahluwalia’s line two years ago.) Waris, for practical reasons. “I’ve got to grow the business… Ahluwalia hasn’t always been taken seriously by the and jewelry is a very costly business,” he said. “I don’t know fashion and jewelry crowd, however, largely as a result pens it’s going to be photographed, because that’s what if you’ve noticed, but gold is expensive, so right now my cost of his sundry creative endeavors (he’s a regular figure it takes to sell things. So how can you cut through the of production is outrageous. What I wanted was another in all of Wes Anderson’s film work), and his active so- noise, how do you cut through everything everyone else category which didn’t cost as much. It’s still expensive. cial life. “You can see from it what you want to see from is trying to sell, so how does your brand stand apart?” Cashmere is expensive, but not compared to gold.” it, it’s perspective,” he said. “What I have the privilege he said. “Yes, I do like to go to glamorous places and He added, “And I do wear scarves, I love scarves, and of being is in the middle of an entirely creative social party, but then I get to bed and I get up and I work and I it’s materials, it’s textiles, it’s the same sort of raw ma- class, that just wants to make things…it just so hap- build a company, but I do it on my terms.” terials…they all get worked into beautiful things.” Like his jewelry, Ahluwalia said the designs were inspired by “love and history. I don’t under- stand either of them, but that’s what keeps me coming back.” The line will be unveiled at Ahluwalia’s presentation on Tuesday, another first for the designer. Previously Ahluwalia showed his wares through re- tailers and through unusual ® ® means such as an occasional Only the genuine Longchamp Pliage never disappoints in any detail. pop-up tea salon. “This is my way of saying, ‘I’m going to play ball, I’m going to do this your way, here it is, fashion week pre- sentation’…and then we’re going to do a market week, we’re going to do sales,” he said. The House of Waris scarves will retail from $300 at Barneys New York, Maxfield, Colette in Paris and Dover Street Market in London. It’s a far lower price point than his fine jewelry col- lection, which has an opening price of $2,000. Ahluwalia has worked with several collabo- rators, such as Yoox.com and A.P.C. on a few projects such as mugs and beach towels, but has never offered an accessible price point under his own label. Ahluwalia launched his fine jewelry line in 2006, despite no training (his parents had hoped he’d be a doctor, “or at least a law- yer”). He spent months hunting down the right jeweler in India. “I went to India, oddly enough, with a recommendation from Dennis Freedman. And then the rest of it was [various referrals from] my rickshaw driver, then the brother of that guy, the sister of that guy… it was just a complete openness,” he recounted. Fast-forward five years, and Ahluwalia found himself in India working with manufacturers for the majority of the year. “I was there six months a year. Going Longchamp was founded in 1948 and has become synonymous with stylish and innovative bags and six times a year, working with my craftsmen six days a week. That’s accessories. The Longchamp Pliage bag has been a hit since 1993. The Pliage bag is identified by its unique design (something our lawyers call "Trade Dress"). Longchamp controls trademark and trade dress rights Waris Ahluwalia in the Pliage bag and will enforce these rights to the fullest extent of the law.

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Sawyer and Mike Nichols kept they get ready because I usually “We want to put design in places FASHION SCOOPS Barry Diller company. Walters had need my time to focus,” he said. “I you wouldn’t expect to find it to yet to run into any inappropriate lock down for about an hour and I help people,” she said. As for BANDED TOGETHER: Kanye Her pal Scott Sternberg or what’s-in-your-fridge fashion don’t let anyone in my dressing room. whether her day job now seems West and Kirsten Dunst were featured her in his latest week questions. Even if she did, I just sit there with my brothers, or by inconsequential in light of her like night and day after Band of campaign and spotlighted “The she would roll with it or change the myself if I’m doing a show by myself, medical trials, “it makes me want to Outsiders. Approached with a few Virgin Suicides” on his women’s subject. “I am sure I have asked and just kind of zone out, focus on create my vision more. Everything friendly questions, West said, “I storyboard this season, but the some inappropriate questions.” what I’m about to get into.” you do matters,“ Subkoff said. “I’m don’t do press.” Apparently even actress takes no credit. “When you The pioneering newswoman is A little while later, a model walked also excited to design to celebrate his Valentine’s Day plans were have friends who are creative, you not working on any more books up to have his picture taken with the beauty of design and life.” off limits. “You’ve got to respect inspire each other,” Dunst said. right now. “I think I have said what I Jonas, and was quickly called back to the person. Do you know what have to say for now,” she said. a rack of clothes by a show runner. LINDSAY BOUGHT IT: In the I’m saying?” West said. Ditto for SUPER SUNDAY: What a difference Nichols knows the fashion Elsewhere, Efron explained past week, Kimberly Ovitz has photo requests — “Now I’m getting a Sunday makes. Two weeks after scene from his Suzy Parker-Richard that he was also a newbie to the skyrocketed to infamy — or rather, perturbed,” he said. keeping 1 billion Super Bowl viewers Avedon days. And the best part? front row. “My first proper runway a certain skintight white dress of But Dunst had nothing but love entertained during halftime, Black “Suzy — she was so much fun and show,” he said, begging an obvious hers has, thanks to Lindsay Lohan. for Lars von Trier, with whom she Eyed Peas-er Fergie was seen at she knew what she was doing.” question. “There have been some Asked about that limelight moment just shot “Melancholia.” “He was one DVF. “I don’t think any Sunday will improper runway shows, yeah,” he during her presentation at The Pace of the most sensitive directors I have compare to that moment. But this SHARP DRESSED MEN: In Joe explained with a laugh. Gallery on Saturday, Ovitz noted the worked with,” she said. Considering Sunday I am at a fashion show and Jonas, Zac Efron and Kellan actress bought the dress on her own another stormy piece, “The Road,” I am not at the Grammys. I chose Lutz, Calvin Klein assembled a CHEERS DEARS: Liev Schreiber — no, it wasn’t a loan — and Ovitz was her other recent project, it’s easy fashion over music this Sunday.” sort of square-jawed (and well- took his 3-year-old son Alexander only found out when TMZ called her to see why Dunst said, “Now I want Across the way, Renée suited) three amigos for its Sunday to Tara Subkoff’s Imitation show up for a quote. “I never would have to do a fun, light comedy.” Fleming, Barbara Walters, Diane afternoon men’s wear show. Jonas, Sunday — a first for the toddler. “I planned to have something like who only recently emerged from asked him if he liked the clothes this happen right before my show,” Kirsten Dunst teen heartthrob land, struck a bit and he said, ‘Yeah! But how come she remarked. “Despite all the of an incongruous figure as he the girls look so unhappy?’ which hubbub, I just kept my eye on the tapped the heel of his dress shoe I thought was pretty telling,” said new collection I’m presenting, but I along to the show’s sound track, Schreiber. The actor may do some can’t deny she did look great in it, which included “Heart and Soul,” Shakespeare in the Park this regardless of context.” a dreary tune by Manchester post- summer but for now he prefers to punkers Joy Division. The blogger hang out with his boy. MARC’S MATE: Real Housewife Bryanboy, dressed in a white fur The designer said she feels of D.C. Mary Schmidt Amons is vest and neon orange trousers, sat great save for hearing loss in one teaming up with Marc Bouwer to within arms’ reach snapping shots ear. “I say, ‘What?’ a lot now but further her Labels for Love charity. of passing models over the Jonas I feel more energized and more And, yes, she is still friendly with brother’s shoulder. creative than ever,” she said. her reality TV friends save for the Backstage before the show, Jonas The designer is teaming up with White House crasher whom she explained that this would be his first the Brain Tumor Foundation to declined to discuss. Entertaining runway viewing. “I’m surprised that work on a design-related project is in her genes — her grandfather Fergie

DUNST PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; FERGIE BY STEVE EICHNER FERGIE BY MITRA; ROBERT DUNST PHOTO BY they’re allowing us back here while but declined to offer specifics. Arthur Godfrey was a well-known WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2011 19 WWD.COM Lynn Collins and Rose McGowan Her seat mate — “One Tree Hill” BATTLE FOR LA RINASCENTE: star Shantel VanSanten — was The future of La Rinascente may excited to be free for the weekend rest in the hands of a Milan judge. from the show’s North Carolina set. Maurizio Borletti, one of the owners “I can finally shop in stores instead of the historical Italian department of online. I went into YSL yesterday store chain and a descendant of to buy one pair of shoes and left the original founder, is contesting with three pairs.” Look for her in the the procedure for the sale of La upcoming film “Remembrance.” Rinascente and a hearing is set for Feb. 16. Central Retailing Corp., TORY’S MOB SCENE: Kanye West, a conglomerate from Thailand, is Kelly Rutherford of “Gossip Girl,” interested in an acquisition of the Vince and Louise Camuto and store. Borletti said he “was not given Silas Chou were among those who the opportunity to conduct due crammed into Tory Burch’s fashion diligence and was negated access to presentation Sunday afternoon. La Rinascente’s data room.” Several Burch mingled with the crowd, which luxury brands, “to my surprise,” said Paz de la Huerta mostly stood and tried to get a peak Borletti, came forward to back the and Amanda Hearst. Eliza Doolittle at the runway. Rutherford said she entrepreneur’s offer, concerned with DOOLITTLE AND HEARST PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; COLLINS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE DOOLITTLE STEVE EICHNER; COLLINS BY AND HEARST PHOTOS BY just designed a handbag line for QVC the mass-market image of Central radio and TV personality in the chairman and chief executive officer of FAST WORK: Quick-change artist that will be introduced Feb. 26. The Retailing. Citing confidentiality Fifties. He is better known in these Donna Karan International, who said Rose McGowan was looking Camutos were checking out Burch’s agreements, Borletti declined to parts for buzzing the air traffic the company just finished a record ladylike lean at Lela Rose Sunday shoes and boots, which they produce, name either his supporters or the control tower at Teterboro Airport in 2010, “which is four years in a row.” morning at 11 and then downtown and Chou said he’s good friends with value of La Rinascente, which his DC3 after being told his plane “It’s coming together. It’s sleek at Preen at 11:30. Having Burch, and was accompanying his includes both the company and its could not land, she said. the same management and a just wrapped up filming “Conan daughter, a University of Pennsylvania real estate, including the prestigious winning team,” said Weber, who the Barbarian,” the actress eagerly freshman, to the show. flagship in Milan’s Piazza Duomo. DKNY’S CROWD: British pop said he’s particularly excited showed iPhone photos of her more Sources estimate the price tag, singer Eliza Doolittle, dressed about the response he’s been barbaric self. “It required six hours ENGLISH LAUNDRY SEES BLUE excluding the real estate properties, in hot pink shorts, was front and getting to Donna Karan’s new of makeup each day starting at AND GREEN: The Los Angeles- could reach 200 million euros, or center at DKNY’s show Sunday casual collection. Meantime, Tony 2:30 in the morning,” McGowan based music-inspired lifestyle brand $270.9 million at current exchange. afternoon. “I’m looking forward to Bologna, group managing director said. So what did she do to English Laundry is selling a majority seeing what’s coming next,” said at LVMH Moët Henessey Louis celebrate when it was all over? “Got interest to private equity and FOR ALBERTA: Amanda Hearst, Doolittle, who said she’s worn Vuitton, Karan’s parent, said, the hell out of Bulgaria,” she said. brand management firm Bluestar Zani Gugelmann and Paz de DKNY since she was a young girl. “Donna Karan’s been going from Lynn Collins, another Lela Alliance for an undisclosed amount. la Huerta all turned out for the She’s also been singing since she strength to strength. It’s been a Rose fan, has also been going to Founded in 2000 by Christopher Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti show was 12 and has just come out with great year on all fronts.” He noted great lengths to get into character Wicks, the global lifestyle brand in Midtown on Saturday afternoon. “I an album under own name. So is the brand is going very well in Asia. for Pixar’s first action film “John has expanded from embellished and modeled for Philosophy a few times, that the name she was born with? The 25 stores in China, mostly Carter of Mars.” Doing all her own embroidered shirts inspired by the and I’m very faithful,” de la Huerta “My name is Eliza, and it was a DKNY ones in Shanghai and Beijing, stunts — freefalling 30-feet and music in Britain of the Sixties and said. “I love Alberta, I’ll always be nickname and it stuck,” she said. are showing double-digit increases, the like — has taught her that Seventies to include suits, jackets there at her shows.” So did that Among those greeting guests at said Bologna, who happened to be once you “push aside fear and and bottoms. Wicks will retain a loyalty extend to anyone else? “I’m the show were Mark Weber, chief wearing a gray Polo sweater. “I’m overcome it there is a moment of “significant minority interest” and going to Diesel — all my Italian executive officer of LVMH Inc. and very open,” he said with a laugh. great freedom.” remain creative director. friends,” she said with a laugh.

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