JONES REPORTS LOSS/3 AVON CALLS REESE WITHERSPOON/5 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 2, 2007 • $2.00 Take Two NEW YORK — Will the second time be a charm for Sean “Diddy” Combs? The hip-hop mogul is giving women’s another go. Following a soft launch for spring, it’s full-speed ahead this holiday for his Sean John juniors collection. So just who is Combs targeting? The girl, he says, who wants “a touch of luxe, a little glam, a splash of hot girl and, most important, the style and swagger that comes with the Sean John lifestyle.” Here, his rabbit fur and patent leather , worn with a cotton tank and stretch . For more, see page 6.

Highest-Paid Vendors: Is No. 1, Earning $25.9M in ’06 By Jeanine Poggi alph Lauren is tops once again. R The chairman and chief executive officer of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. ranked as the highest-paid executive of an American vendor in 2006, with a $25.9 million pay package. He topped the list for the third year in a row. Polo dominated WWD’s 10 list of vendor executive compensation, with Roger N. Farah, the company’s president and chief operating officer, occupying the number-two slot with a total pay package of $12.5 million. This included a base salary of $900,000 and stock and option awards worth more See Lauren, Page 9 PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL It’s three in a row for Ralph Lauren, as he again was the highest-paid 1 executive of a U.S. vendor in 2006, with a $25.9 million pay package. Jones Apparel Group reported a second-quarter loss, lowered full-year 3 guidance and said it was not for sale and there have been no offers. Giorgio Armani will start selling all Emporio Armani products online in 3 the U.S. next month as part of an ongoing plan to expand e-commerce. Ulrik Garde Due, a senior vice president at Burberry Ltd., has been 5 named chief executive offi cer of Georg Jensen, effective Nov. 1. BEAT: Sean “Diddy” Combs is preparing several major launches in 6 women’s, including a fragrance and Sean John junior sportswear. : Farmer Jeans has opened a store on Sunset Boulevard, in the 7 hip Eastside Los Angeles neighborhood of Los Feliz. A Senate committee passed a bill that would prod China to revalue its 14 currency by changing the Treasury’s defi nition of a currency manipulation. EYE A talk with director-writer Jeff Blitz, whose fi rst feature fi lm, “Rocket Sci- 4 ence,” deals with a stuttering teen who joins the school debate team. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 23. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. In Brief

● NEW TRADE BILL: Sens. Max Baucus (D., Mont.) and Orrin Hatch (R., Utah) introduced an omnibus bill Wednesday de- signed to strengthen U.S. enforcement of trade agreements and use of domestic trade remedy laws. The Trade Enforcement Act of 2007 would expand countervailing duty laws governing illegally subsidized imports to include products from nonmar- ket economies such as China, create a Senate-confirmed chief enforcement officer to investigate and prosecute cases and au- thorize $5 million for U.S. trade representative enforcement. It would also change the criteria for a material injury determina- tion by the International Trade Commission in countervailing duty and antidumping cases, and limit the president’s discre- tion under the China safeguard law.

● GLOBAL BRANDS GROUP HIRE: Global Brands Group, which is heading licensing for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, has hired Simon Hawkins, formerly Reebok vice present of sales, as vice president of licensing and sales for Europe, the Middle East and Africa, a new role. Hawkins spent 15 years with Reebok in various sales positions. Based in London, Hawkins reports to Mark Matheny, co-chief executive offi cer and co-chairman.

● A SWEET MOVE: Ed Jankowski will step down from his post as chief operating officer of Solstice on Aug. 17. Jankowski has taken a position at Godiva to run its North American di- vision, which has 270 stores and 5,000 points of distribution. Jankowski spearheaded the Safilo-owned Solstice eyewear chain for the past six years. There are nearly 100 Solstice stores that sell eyewear from brands such as Marc Jacobs, Dior and Oliver Peoples. Claudio Gottardi, chief executive officer of Safilo Group, has tapped Giovanni Pesce, the company’s head of retail in Europe, to assist in the transition while a replace- ment for Jankowski is found. Before joining Safilo in January, Pesce spent 15 years with Luxottica Group SpA, most recently as managing director of Sunglass Hut Australia, where he over- saw 200 sunglass specialty stores in Australia, New Zealand and Singapore, and was also a director of OPSM, a chain of 600 optical and sunglass stores in Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong and Singapore. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 3 WWD.COM Emporio Armani to Launch Jones Apparel Posts E-commerce Site in U.S. $47.1M Loss in Qtr. By Luisa Zargani interview with Mr. Armani,” said Triefus, By Vicki M. Young Barneys brand, management and creative declining to reveal the name of the Web teams, and would be an excellent strate- MILAN — Giorgio Armani is known to site until the deal has been fi nalized. ones Apparel Group, which reported gic partner.” be tireless and hands-on about building The designer said there are only 10 Ja second-quarter loss and lowered Jones said separately that for the quar- his business. However, there is one store Emporio Armani freestanding stores in full-year guidance on Wednesday, said ter ended July 7, the company posted a opening the designer will have to miss the U.S. and that the Web site will enable its board agreed that Fast Retailing Co. loss of $47.1 million, or 44 cents a diluted — that of the reproduction of his Via consumers nationwide to shop the entire Ltd.’s $900 million cash offer for Barneys share, compared with income of $36.6 Manzoni megastore in the virtual world collection. “There are many attributes New York was superior to a previously ac- million, or 32 cents, in the same year-ago of Second Life. of an e-commerce store that I fi nd espe- cepted bid from Dubai-based Istithmar. period. The most recent quarter included Instead, a computerized version of cially appealing: the with which we President and chief executive offi cer a write-down associated with the brands Armani, otherwise known as an avatar, can change the merchandise offerings; Wes Card, who replaced Peter Boneparth that the company has decided to sell. will welcome viewers and shoppers on the instant information we receive on last month, said the company was not for Excluding results of discontinued opera- the site when it launches. And just as the way customers are shopping on the sale and acknowledged there have been tions and restructuring costs, adjusted the designer is often in his stores check- site, [and] the fact that the collection can no offers for it. He intends to empha- earnings were 17 cents a diluted share ing merchandise and windows and talk- now be available 24 hours a day, seven size core brands: Jones New York, Anne versus 39 cents last year. Total revenues ing to customers, so his avatar will be in days a week, to so many people who have Klein, Nine West and Gloria Vanderbilt. fell by 2.2 percent to $903.9 million from the Second Life store on a regular basis. not had access to one of my stores in the “Focusing on quality is built into my DNA $923.9 million, which includes a sales de- The store will allow viewers to purchase past,” said Armani. at Jones,” Card said. The board is “com- cline of 1.7 percent to $894.5 million from the brand’s top 10 products virtually via Triefus said the e-commerce site has mitted to investing in the good opportuni- $909.6 million. Second Life currency, the Linden dollar, been in development for a year, and the ties we have here.” or in actuality. company is determined to offer online “My fi rst order is to develop a good More significantly, coming in the same retail experience as consumers strong plan for 2008 that we can execute September, Armani will start selling all would fi nd in Armani’s brick-and-mortar against,’’ he said in an interview. “We Emporio Armani products online in the stores. need to show the shareholders more con- U.S. as part of an ongoing strategy of ex- The company is investing $500,000 sistency.” panding e-commerce. in online communication and search The company is working on its whole- “In the last seven years, I have seen optimization in the fi rst season, work- sale relationships, from strategizing to mounting enthusiasm for online fashion ing with leading interactive advertising working on how to grow, Card said. He shopping in the through agency Morpheus Media. The full range didn’t rule out acquisitions, saying that of Emporio Armani Jones “is always looking” with an eye products will be to “enhance shareholder value.” Still, available on the Card’s plan for turning around Jones site, from seems more focused on internal changes to accessories, eye- and getting those initiatives in place be- wear, fragrances, fore adding brands. jewelry and Red- Meanwhile, Jones’ agreement with branded pieces. Istithmar, a private equity and alternative Triefus said the investment house, remains in place and site will comprise the fi rm has “until the end of business on the “Experience” section, designed in collaboration with My fi rst order is to develop a good strong plan for Saatchi & Saatchi Italy, and the “Shop “2008 that we can execute against. We need to show Online” area, pow- ered by the Italian the shareholders more consistency. Internet retailer Yoox. Initially, only ” Emporio Armani’s Web site. — Wes Card, Jones Apparel Group U.S. residents will be able to shop, but Friday” to disclose whether it wants to For the six months, the loss was the growing success we have had with the company plans to expand the site to match the offer, Card said. $800,000, or 1 cent a diluted share, against our A|X Armani Exchange site,” Armani Europe next year and to Asia after that. Jones said Tuesday that it had re- income of $62.5 million, or 55 cents, in said. “Over this same period I have also “America is the most advanced coun- ceived the offer from Tokyo-based Fast the same year-ago period. Total revenues observed the increasing sophistication try for e-commerce. It’s only logical to Retailing, the owner of fast-fashion chain slipped by 1 percent to $1.98 billion from of fashion consumers shopping online, launch there fi rst,” said Triefus, noting Uniqlo and an investor in contemporary $2 billion, which included a slight decline which has encouraged me to develop that, in the U.S., the company does not brand Theory, which is not contingent on in sales by 0.7 percent to $1.96 billion this new site for my Emporio Armani wholesale Emporio Armani apparel and due diligence and can be closed quickly. from $1.97 billion. lifestyle.” accessories, with the exception of - The apparel giant on June 22 entered into Jones said it expects 2007 full-year ad- A soft unveiling of the Emporio es, jewelry and eyewear. The site also co- an agreement to sell the luxury Barneys justed earnings per share to be between Armani site is slated for Aug. 14, while incides with the launch of the fragrance chain to an affi liate of Istithmar for $825 $1.28 and $1.34, versus previous guidance the offi cial launch will take place Sept. Emporio Armani Diamonds, fronted million in cash, subject to purchase-price of $1.95 and $2.05. 7, to coincide with the Neiman Marcus by Beyoncé Knowles. In September, all adjustments. Jones would be required to The company expects to complete the Crystal Charity luncheon in Dallas. Emporio ads will bear a reference to the pay a termination fee of $22.7 million if it sale of certain smaller sportswear brands, Armani has been invited as guest of online shop. withdraws from the accord. including moderate apparel brand Erika honor and will show his fall collection. In 2000, Armani started selling A|X Neither the executives at Istithmar and the and accessories label Robert Triefus, Armani’s executive Armani Exchange products on the nor the fi rm’s bankers at Peter J. Solomon Pappagallo, which it determined were not vice president of worldwide communi- Internet; Emporio Armani fol- Co. could be reached for comment. necessary for its core operation, Card said. cations, said that, for the fi rst time, the lowed in 2004, and, at the end of 2005, A spokesman for Fast Retailing said, Jones’ plan is to concentrate on the designer will be interviewed online by Giorgio Armani Beauty went online. All “We are very pleased with the board’s de- upper moderate market because “We’re the American public that day. “A major these projects were aimed at U.S. resi- cision to declare our offer superior. Fast not really geared to do entry-level moder- American portal will organize a live chat dents only. Retailing has the highest respect for the ate price points,” Card said.

cuff priced at $750. “Lots of times they movies and the go Jennifer into storage,” says store owner Laura Wills, noting that ironically a few of the Lopez in items had been purchased from her store in the fi rst place. “It was a great Fashion Scoops a windfall to be able to buy the costumes from the movie. This is the crème from “El de la crème of vintage.” DRESSING LIKE J.LO: Many a fan would love to spend a day in Cantante.” But anyone who wants to wear Lopez’s costumes will have to bear some ’s , let alone her dress or her jewelry. And resemblance to her: at size 4 to 6, “she’s pretty small,” says Wills. starting tonight with a preview reception, it will be possible, since women will be able to buy the curvaceous star’s costumes from WORKING THE MALL: American Eagle Outfi tters threw a “denim carpet” “El Cantante,” the biopic of salsa star Hector Lavoe that costars premiere for its new TV ad series, “It’s a Mall World,” directed by Milo Lopez’s husband, Marc Anthony. The vintage ensembles, which Ventimiglia of “Heroes,” on Tuesday night at the Cinerama Dome in span the decades from the Sixties on, are on sale at East Village Hollywood, followed by a party at the Cabana Club attended by cast store Screaming Mimi’s, with part of the proceeds benefi ting members and celebrities including Dixie Chick Natalie Maines, Rachael Leigh amfAR. Included in the offering is Anthony’s and those Cook and Ventimiglia’s “Heroes” co-star Hayden Panettiere. The fi rst of 12 of background actors, with prices starting at $55. three-and-a-half-minute episodes will premiere during a commercial break Lopez’s hand-me-downs include an early Eighties velvet on MTV’s “The Real World: Sydney” on Aug. 8. The minisitcom centers keyhole dress she wears in a scene, selling for $295; a around fi ve friends working at various mall shops. The company’s Web site pair of Seventies red-trimmed denim HotPants ($265); the teal will feature longer, fi ve-minute clips of each episode the day after it airs on polyester dress featured in the fi lm’s poster ($425), and a Lanvin MTV, plus an extra episode at the end of the season. LOPEZ PHOTO COURTESY OF PICTUREHOUSE PHOTO COURTESY LOPEZ PETERS COLLECTION ENTERTAINMENT/NEAL 4 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 WWD.COM SPEECH THERAPY IT WOULDN’T BE UNREASONABLE TO THINK DIRECTOR- writer Jeffrey Blitz suffers from some kind of verbal fi xation. Leg Work His 2002 Oscar-nominated documentary “Spellbound” focused on the National Spelling Bee competition and in ew York Fashion Week is still over a month away, but “Rocket Science,” his feature fi lm debut out Friday, his Ncatwalk favorite Hana Soukupova has been putting her protagonist is Hal Hefner, an endearingly troubled teenager endless gams on overdrive this summer. While her runway with a stutter who joins the high school debate team. colleagues indulge in some vacation time, the Czech model But for Blitz, such wordplay is a tool for exploring depths of has turned Cinema Society screenings and quirky character development. While “Spellbound” presented store openings into a makeshift round of a veritable quilt of American diversity, “Rocket Science” tells a Jeffrey Blitz go-sees, besting even the most dedicated smaller, more intimate journey toward self-empowerment. The social’s attendance record. Consider genesis of the latter was in Blitz’s experiences on the road making his hit documentary. the past two weeks alone, during which “We would go to meet a kid and before we met him or her, I would think, ‘What if this Soukupova could be spotted at a Piaget kid ends up being just an amazing lover of words, wouldn’t that be great?’ And then you’d event for Doo-Ri Chung, Super Saturday get there and the kid wouldn’t be anything like that at all,” he recalls. “So I was left with all 10, a Moët & Chandon and Fendi-sponsored these ideas for characters that never came true but that I felt would be really compelling.” yacht bash and a Prince concert at the Ross School in the Hamptons. And like any hardworking It’s not like I set out to make a story about a career girl, Soukupova has turned “ to a of sorts, opting for loser who stays a loser. micro minidresses and ” regardless of the . All Blitz’s own life story factored in, too. Set in the small town of Plainsboro, N.J., the better for those casting agents “Rocket Science” follows Hal as he is coaxed by debate alpha girl and crush, Ginny, into to see you, my dear. …and at joining the school team. Blitz, a New native himself, similarly joined the debate a Cinema team in spite of his own stutter. And to great success: By his senior year of high school Society he had overcome his disability, going on to win a N.J. state championship in college and “Interview” numerous speech contests. Hal, sadly, does not enjoy a similar fate. screening. “I just feel like that movie of the kid who wins the debate and gets the girl has been done so many times,” explains Blitz. “It’s just much more interesting to have a story that follows its own organic path, than a story that feels like it needs to hew closely to the Hollywood formula. It’s not like I set out to make a story about a loser who stays a loser.” As seen through Blitz’s sympathetic gaze, Hal and his supporting cast of misfi ts (including his OCD bully brother and voyeuristic young neighbor friend) expose the humor inherent in their rather steep growing pains. And if the fi lm has any lesson at all — a pedantic necessity the director prefers to forgo — it is that succeeding at life need not require a trophy. Indeed, Blitz himself is leaving behind the theme of childhood competition in his next project, a documentary on the lottery. “I think it’s time for me to graduate from high school,” he smiles. — Vanessa Lawrence

Hana Soukupova at a Nicholas Coleridge party at ...aboard the Waverly ...at Super the Broward Hal (Reece Thompson) and Ginny (Anna Kendrick) in “Rocket Science.” Inn… Saturday 10...... at the Piaget store... Megayacht...

Young Hollywood has developed a thing for a certain white powder, though LARK CAKE SHOP this time it’s not the sort landing starlets on tabloid covers and in court. Top-ranked treats include nutmeg and caramel salt cupcakes, Flour and sugar are the substances du jour as Los Angeles experiences peanut butter and oatmeal cranberry cookies and, of course, cakes galore — from old-fashioned coconut to red velvet (decorated with a boom in old-fashioned bake shops. Nearly a dozen have popped up Mod-inspired polkadots). The decor also marries nostalgia with in neighborhoods around the city this year, touting recipes from mom’s modernity: Midcentury furniture fills a small seating area next kitchen designed to evoke baking’s golden age. Here, WWD spotlights to a wraparound glass case packed with treats, while polished three of the fastest risers. — Emili Vesilind concrete floors and vaulted ceilings lend a hip industrial vibe. 3337 West Sunset Boulevard; 323-667-2968.

DELILAH BAKERY This Echo Park sweet shop is bursting VANILLA BAKE SHOP with ambiance. The freestanding Former dessert caterer Amy Berman and her husband, Jeremy, location boasts kitschy, sunshine-yellow bring culinary school expertise to tantalizing concoctions including interiors and Deep South-inspired tiramisu shooters, bite-size brownie canapés, French macaroons treats, including pecan bourbon and bite-size “cupcake dainties.” Can’t hang out? Order an icebox pie, banana cake and whiskey bread dessert to go — layered confections including dirt cake, chocolate pudding. Closed Monday and Tuesday. mousse and Southern banana pudding, encased in old-fashioned 1665 Echo Park Avenue; 213-975-9400. glass jars. 512 Wilshire Boulevard; 310-458-6644. SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS SWEET SMELL SOUKUPOVA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND NEIL RASMUS/PMC; BLITZ BY PASHA ANTONOV; “ROCKET SCIENCE” BY JEFF BRIDGES/ “ROCKET SCIENCE” BY ANTONOV; PASHA STEVE EICHNER BLITZ BY AND NEIL RASMUS/PMC; PHOTOS BY SOUKUPOVA LIZ RONK DELILAH SARDELLA; BY TYLER BOYE; BY VANILLA DONATO PICTUREHOUSE; LARK CAKE SHOP BY WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 5 WWD.COM Avon Names Witherspoon Spokeswoman Subkoff Plans to Sell By Rachel Brown Inter Parfums SA Buys Lanvin Division Imitation of Christ LOS ANGELES — Reese Witherspoon is going global with PARIS — Inter Parfums SA has acquired Lanvin SA’s fra- mitation of Christ founder Tara Subkoff Avon Products Inc. grance and cosmetics business for 22 million euros, or $30 Iis seeking to sell the label to pair the The direct-sales company announced Wednesday that the million at current exchange. manufacturing, advertising and distribution 31-year-old actress has agreed to a multiyear deal to be spokes- A buyback option, which can be implemented on July 1, expertise of a strategic partner with her de- woman for Avon’s beauty brands and representatives, and hon- 2025, and a technical assistance and design agreement are sign talents. orary chairman of the Avon Foundation focusing on breast can- part of the deal. The brand has gained recognition for cer, domestic violence and emergency relief initiatives. Lanvin said in a statement the sale was made to ensure it its edgy clothes and runway shows, but Avon declined to disclose terms, but industry sources es- has the investment required for the ongoing development of has struggled to keep up with demand. timate Witherspoon could be paid $1 million-plus a year to its ready-to-wear and luxury accessories, which are experi- Shipments of the fall-winter collection be the company’s encing “very signifi cant growth.” have been canceled. Subkoff started the so-called “global Philippe Benacin, chairman and managing director of line in 2000 with Matt Damhave, who ex- ambassador.” Reese Inter Parfums SA, the Paris-based subsidiary of Inter Parfums ited the business in 2001. “There is such Witherspoon Inc., told WWD he is “very excited” about the agreement, “Unfortunately, it has gotten too big for power in the idea which allows for even “more room for creativity” when it me to manage on my own,” Subkoff said. of empowering comes to Lanvin beauty products. He also confi rmed that on “It has been very ‘Wizard of Oz,’ the man women through the marketing side, there will be no major changes made to behind the curtain. Everybody thinks it is making them feel the business; Inter Parfums executives will continue working this big thing, but it is actually just me.” good and building closely with Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz on upcoming, high- Subkoff confirmed that Imitation of their self-esteem,” end products. Christ has not been profi table this year, but PHOTO BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY said Witherspoon, Early next year, Inter Parfums is slated to launch a fl owery declined to disclose specifi cs. She report- clad in a white women’s scent from Lanvin, followed by a new feminine fra- ed interest from one “large company” and Nina Ricci top and grance line at the end of 2008. “several individuals,” but cautioned that a , during a press Lanvin and Inter Parfums SA inked a beauty licensing potential buyer would have to look beyond conference at the agreement in June 2004. It was a 15-year deal that includ- the balance sheet to properly evaluate Beverly Wilshire ed an up-front licensing fee of 16 million euros, or $21.8 Imitation of Christ. Four Seasons Hotel. million; Lanvin’s existing inventory, which totaled 6 mil- “Because we did one-of-a-kind for so “Avon does a good lion euros, or $8.2 million; advertising expenditure, and long, it doesn’t make sense for a company job of that, not only royalty payments. in terms of a business strategy to look at in the products, but For the fi rst half of 2007, Lanvin’s fragrance business rose numbers — they have to look at what it is also in working with 14 percent to 15.6 million euros, or $20.7 million, thanks to worth in terms of being known,” she said. the Foundation.” a 40 percent jump in sales of its Eclat d’Arpege line. Other The boldest of Subkoff ’s plans is a Andrea Jung, Lanvin fragrances include Lanvin, Arpege and Rumeur. capsule collection developed with the re- Avon’s chairman Inter Parfums has the fragrance licenses for brands such tailer Bebe called Tara Subkoff for Bebe. and chief executive as Burberry, Lanvin, Paul Smith, Quiksilver-Roxy and Van Launching for spring-summer 2008, she de- officer, has been Cleef & Arpels. scribed the looks as “super wearable, really — Jennifer Weil sexy and modern.” In addition, Josh Sparks, former chief exec- [Witherspoon is] accessible, utive offi cer of Sass & Bide, has teamed with True Religion to Expand Into Scents Imitation of Christ to introduce a diffusion “approachable and, I think, shares LOS ANGELES — True Religion Apparel Inc. signed a licens- line called Imitation. Subkoff said the line is ing deal with Selective Fragrances to launch fragrances for being released to a limited number of bou- the vision, the values of the company men and women in fall 2008, as the premium denim maker tiques for fall-winter, and wider distribution expands its business beyond jeans amid tepid sales. is expected in the spring-summer season. and the dreams of women. True Religion, based in Vernon, Calif., said the two scents Subkoff has no plans to exit the brand ” will be sold in its own stores as well as national depart- entirely. However, she is willing to consid- — Andrea Jung, Avon Products Inc. ment stores, including Neiman Marcus, Saks , er a variety of roles, from creative director Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Barneys New York. It also to brand ambassador, depending upon the spearheading a corporate turnaround will target more than 1,000 special- needs of the buyer. effort characterized by cost-cutting at ty stores, such as Sephora and Ulta. — R.B. the organizational and infrastructure Supplementing its distribution strat- levels, and increases in Avon’s adver- BEAUTY BEAT egy will be an international rollout to tising budget and outreach to celebri- Europe, Japan, Australia, South America ties and designers. Witherspoon is the linchpin of “Hello and other foreign markets, in addition to duty free stores in Tomorrow,” Avon’s fi rst global advertising campaign, which the U.S. and Caribbean. was launched in March. Though True Religion didn’t disclose terms of the licens- Burberry Exec Tapped “It was an important decision for us to decide to have a ing agreement, the deal is intended to help lift its relatively global ambassador, which is a very new, fi rst-time role in 121 fl at sales and put it closer to its goal of becoming a lifestyle years,” said Jung in an interview following the press confer- brand. In the fi rst quarter, True Religion’s net income fell 35 To Lead Georg Jensen ence. “Reese was at the top of our list. She is an extraordi- percent to $4.2 million from $6.5 million, as expenses for re- nary actress, an incredible producer and the ultimate work- tail and other operations surged 67 percent. First-quarter net By Samantha Conti ing mother. Very importantly, [she is] accessible, approachable sales rose less than 2 percent to $36.1 million from $35.6 mil- and, I think, shares the vision, the values of the company and lion a year ago. LONDON — Ulrik Garde Due, a senior vice the dreams of women.” True Religion said Selective will spend about 20 percent president at Burberry Ltd., has been named Avon quickly has been building up its contingent of of sales on advertising and marketing. It also said Selective as chief executive officer of Georg Jensen Hollywood spokespeople. Jennifer Hudson was brought on is working with perfumers from Givaudan to produce the fra- and will take up his post Nov. 1. to front Avon’s Imari fragrance brand, and Lauren Conrad grances, which are in the preliminary development stages, Garde Due, 44, will replace Hans-Kristian teamed up with Mark, Avon’s makeup line tailored to women with nearly 24 working formulations. Hoejsgaard, who left the Copenhagen-based 18 to 24 years old. Last year, Avon’s advertising budget in- — Khanh T.L. Tran luxury jeweler at the end of July. creased 83 percent, and Jung reported the company would Garde Due, a Danish national, is currently boost the budget by 50 percent this year. senior vice president, international sales at “As we go forward, we continue to keep the brand extreme- Bare Escentuals Lists $20.2M in 2Q Earnings Burberry, where he has been since 1998. He ly relevant, and that involves everything from product innova- are Escentuals Inc. posted second-quarter sales that beat was part of the Rose Marie Bravo-led team that tion and making sure that — whether it is product delivery, BWall Street’s expectations, but reaffirmed its full-year earn- kick-started the brand’s relaunch and took it packaging [or] convenience — we are always on the latest and ings guidance range below consensus estimates. public in 2002 on the London Stock Exchange. greatest trends,” said Jung. “When you add that Reese will “We achieved sales growth of 29 percent as we developed He is also a nonexecutive board member be the spokesperson for the brand, we really believe that we more points of distribution and satisfi ed the growing consum- of Royal Copenhagen, the luxury tableware can keep the brand on the forefront, not just of the American er demand for our products worldwide,” said Leslie Blodgett, company. Garde Due has worked for the consumer, but the global consumer, as well.” chief executive offi cer, in a statement released after the mar- Escada Group in Paris, and for Celine in New Witherspoon said she would be starting on the advertising ket closed on Wednesday. York, Paris and Tokyo. campaign “soon,” and Jung expects that the “Walk the Line” The San Francisco-based cosmetics company reported sec- “Ulrik Garde Due is the right person to star’s ads would begin running early next year. Avon plans to ond-quarter earnings for the period ended July 1 of $20.2 mil- lead Georg Jensen through the next tough have Witherspoon involved in product development, but what lion, or 22 cents a diluted share, up 92.4 percent from $10.5 phase, where many good initiatives initi- exactly she will contribute is unclear. Jung kept mum on the million, or 15 cents, in the same year-ago period. Sales came ated in recent years must be realized,” said products that would be launched next year in tandem with the in at $124.1 million, up 29 percent from $96.2 million in the Lars Norby Johansen, chairman of the Georg Witherspoon-centered advertising. year-ago quarter. Jensen board. “I know a lot of women who need really great beauty prod- Analysts expected Bare Escentuals to earn 22 cents a share He said the strategy going forward is to ucts. I want to focus on what women are really wanting and on revenue of $123.1 million, according to Yahoo Finance. transform Georg Jensen into “an internation- out there looking for,” said Witherspoon in a post-press con- The company reaffi rmed its fi scal 2007 earnings per al luxury brand,” and new management skills ference interview when asked about her product-develop- share guidance of between 89 cents and 94 cents. Wall were needed. ment input. “Also keeping it affordable, but really high qual- Street expects Bare Escentuals to report full-year earnings “I would like to thank Hans-Kristian ity, I think that is really important.” of 96 cents a share. Shares of Bare Escentuals rose by 0.3 Hoejsgaard for skillfully setting Georg Jensen Witherspoon’s charitable work for Avon kicked off percent Wednesday afternoon to $28.30, but fell 1.7 percent on the right track — with the international Wednesday afternoon, with the actress meeting women train- to $27.81 in after-hours trading, when the company released luxury market as the fi nal destination. He has ing for the Avon Walk for Breast Cancer. “It is a very multifac- its earnings. initiated the globalization of the Georg Jensen eted role that I am going to be playing,” she said. — Erica Owen mind-set,” said Johansen. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Sean John Gives Women’s Wear Another Try

By Julee Greenberg ing of the design of the line, he thought of style icons including Mary J. Blige, Jennifer Lopez, , Kelis and Madonna. NEW YORK — Sean “Diddy” Combs isn’t giving up on women. “[These] are exactly the types of individuals that come to mind when The hip-hop mogul is in the news for his personal drama with ex-girl- thinking of Sean John,” he said. “[They are] smart, confi dent and sexy. They friend Kim Porter, and his company Sean John has had diffi culties in wom- all have swagger and that cannot be bought or sold.” en’s apparel in the past. But Combs is preparing several major launches in Looking to reach $100 million in wholesale volume within the fi rst three the women’s category, beginning with the introduction of his fragrance with years at retail, Combs said his women’s addition has been carefully thought the Estée Lauder Cos., Unforgivable for Women, which will begin rolling out and slated to launch at the same time as the women’s fragrance. out in October and is expected to top $45 million in the U.S. in its fi rst year. “When you just start working with factories, you have to work out Meanwhile, on the apparel end, Combs will introduce Sean John junior the kinks, which is why we did a soft launch for spring,” he said. sportswear this coming holiday after a soft launch for spring. “We’ve had very good sell-throughs and based on the test, we’ve In apparel, it’s a case of try, try again for Combs. The holiday in- already received rave reviews on the denim. Usually it takes a troduction will be his second offi cial attempt at launching a women’s few seasons to get the denim right.” collection. His contemporary line, Sean by Sean Combs, closed in To launch the line, Combs has created an ad campaign fea- March 2006 after being at retail for less than a year. That collec- turing three rising stars — Asia (the newest Pussycat Doll), tion only brought in $3.5 million in wholesale volume during its Cassie (a Bad Boy recording artist) and Lauren London fi rst six months on the selling fl oor. While that isn’t considered Sean (an actress who was on the HBO series “Entourage”). bad for a new contemporary designer collection, it isn’t the John’s Combs, of course, is also featured in the campaign, which high volume Combs is used to seeing: at the time, he did $450 velour was shot by Warwick Saint, the photographer who shot million at retail with Sean John men’s and now brings in $500 sweat- the advertising and promotional materials for “Charlie’s million in retail volume. . Angels.” The ads will appear in magazines such as Vibe, “A lot of people in this business can’t admit when they are not Giant, Complex and Seventeen. ready and I wasn’t ready for the contemporary category,” Combs “I wanted the campaign to be like Diddy’s angels,” he said. said. “It was such an aggressive category and I got off to a good start, “And I think that Asia, Lauren and Cassie represent the Sean but I knew I was so far away from where I wanted to be based on my John girl in a perfect way.” competition. When I made the decision to close Sean by Sean Combs, It’s been four years since his last fashion week show, but what I wanted to do was take the time to gain the knowledge in con- Combs promised a return to the runway in February, when he temporary. I think it was better for me to get out then and go back to will showcase his men’s and women’s collections. While he it four years down the line, four years smarter. still hasn’t decided on the venue, he hasn’t ruled out his old “What I learned is that no matter how much hype there is surround- stomping ground of Cipriani on 42nd Street. ing a line, in women’s you have to be up for the fi ght. I still plan to come “We are planning a show for February to celebrate 10 back with that line in a couple of years. It was in great stores and I would years,” he said. And while not giving too many details, he rather leave those stores while I had a good relationship and be able to predicted, “I’ll be back and it will be big.” come back. I would rather do it that way than have them kick me out.”

ine. ign for the Sean John women’s l s in the ad campa Sean “Diddy” Comb A polyester and cotton top with denim jeans.

A polyester baseball jacket with a cotton tank and jeans.

I wanted the campaign to be like Diddy’s angels. “I think that Asia, Lauren and Cassie represent the Sean John girl in a perfect way. ” — Sean “Diddy” Combs

He may not be ready to dive back into contemporary, but Combs, who will cel- ebrate 10 years in business in 2008, is of course confi dent his new junior sportswear line, licensed to G-III Apparel Group Ltd., will be a hit. He said he is up for the chal- lenge of entering a market where few women’s urban brands have made it big, with the exception of Baby Phat and Rocawear. Combs constantly mentions he aspires to lead his business in the same way that Ralph Lauren has managed Polo, although he has a long way to go before he reaches Lauren status. “The Sean John customer is the girl looking for more,” he explained. “She wants a look that takes her up a notch without trying too hard. She wants a touch of luxe, a little glam, a splash of hot girl and, most importantly, she wants the style and swagger that comes with the Sean John lifestyle. Her hair is effortlessly glamorous. It’s classic bombshell hair with a young urban spin. Her makeup is like a second skin that only seeks to highlight her best feature, her own beauty. She hangs out in the cool spots, she’s the most popular girl and often voted best dressed, her peers look to her as the trendsetter. She is the infl uencer.” The collection, which wholesales between $16 and $150, consists of a large range of denim jeans, sexy tops, down , fur bomber jackets, velour sweat sets, logo tanks, and . Combs said details were a must — such as with the real rab- bit fur on jackets, chain-detailed zipper pulls on the back pockets of a pair of jeans and embroidery on the back of a velour track jacket. The collection will be sold out of

G-III’s Sean John women’s showroom at 512 Seventh Avenue. Combs said when think- ANTONOV PASHA MODEL PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 7 WWD.COM Denim Dish Farmer Jeans Plants First Retail Seed in Los Angeles When denim company Farmer Jeans went hunting for space in Los Angeles to open its first store, the compa- ny veered away from the city’s tony Westside areas — Express Turns to Web including Montana Avenue and Robertson Boulevard — where premium denim companies such as Paige Premium Denim and AG Adriano Goldschmied For Fall Style Search launched their first boutiques. Instead, the Los Angeles-based company moved into Express wants to energize the back-to-school denim a 1,000-square-foot storefront on Sunset Boulevard, in rush by offering customers the chance to become the hip Eastside neighborhood of Los Feliz. The ar- professional stylists for a day. ea’s cheaper rents were a draw, but the choice to head The retailer will launch the In Your Wildest east was also congruous with the brand’s image, said Jeans Stylist Search on Monday. Entrants must sub- marketing director Paul Magalad. mit photos of themselves, via the Express Web site, “The Eastside is where all the trends are set,” said wearing their best denim-based look. Magalad. “Things start here and spread west.” Representatives from Ford Models, Parsons The The company celebrated the store’s opening on July New School for Design and Express will judge the 14 by throwing a street party where including photos. They will be looking for the “best expres- Blackbird, Quetzal Guerrero and the Warriors played. sion of denim style.” Entrants need not be swathed Business on the block, located just east of Vermont in denim from head to toe, nor are they required to Avenue, is a mix of storefronts and offi ce space. wear Express denim, but at least one item of cloth- “We think it’s very up-and-coming on this strip,” ing must be blue denim. The use of denim in the look Magalad said. will account for 50 percent of the judges’ determina- An upscale men’s vintage store, Jack Vintage, recently opened next to Farmer, and across the street is a strip tion, and 25 percent will be based on personal style. of stores that includes an and popular gift and bookstore The Soap Plant/Wacko. The remaining 25 percent of the score is split evenly Magalad said robust sales at the new unit are a primary goal, but added the company also opened the store between the overall look and creativity of the outfi t. for profi le and branding. The company declined to give a sales projection for the store. Contestants will have until Sept. 3 to submit their “It’s really been diffi cult for denim lately….Also, it’s cheaper to produce a larger run of merchandise and photos. have a place to sell it,” he said. Pamela Seidman, director of public relations and The company aims to open two more stores by spring, in New York’s SoHo neighborhood and in San communications for Express, who created the con- Francisco, though leases have yet to be signed. test, said the emergence of stylists as celebrities in The Farmer label, which was founded in 2003, is known for its understated washes and dearth of branding their own right had served as the inspiration. on its jeans. Its fi rst store is similarly austere, with concrete fl oors, dark-wood cubby shelving and custom-made wall racks that display the brand’s range of jeans styles, which retail from $189 to $279. The brand also has infused elements of an ap- parel design studio into the store. Paper printed with jeans patterns lines the metal shelves dis- playing jeans in the center, and wooden markers painted with chalkboard paint bear the scrawled names of the jeans models. Similarly, a wall be- hind the cash register is painted with chalkboard paint and features a daily “menu” of the names and fi t characteristics of each model in stock. Magalad said as the company opens more stores, it also plans to launch new categories, including T- and possibly outerwear and children’s wear. “We’re planning to do what Hysteric Glamour did,” he said. “They are the kings of high-end The new Farmer Jeans streetwear and we hope to be on par with them store in Los Angeles. by spring 2008.” — Emili Vesilind PHOTOS BY ROBERT TODD WILLIAMSON ROBERT PHOTOS BY Pucci, Seven For All Mankind Partner When a fashion brand like Emilio Pucci joins forces with premium denim “We feel like the stylist is the new talent celeb- maker Seven For All Mankind, a crystal ball probably isn’t needed to guess rity,” Seidman said. “You’ve got supermodels, pho- the outcome — colored jeans. tographers and fashion editors, and stylists are now The one-off collaboration resulted in a limited edition thought of in the same way. It’s sort of the Rachel jeans collection, with a production run of about 2,000 Zoe phenomenon.” pieces, designed by Pucci’s creative director, Seidman wanted to give the contest a sense of Matthew Williamson, and produced by Seven For authenticity and legitimacy by involving some of the All Mankind. The jeans, $400 at retail, will be fashion industry’s big-name players. carried in Pucci’s namesake stores and top sales “We partnered with Ford because we think they’re points starting this month. an industry authority and partnered with Parsons to Laudomia Pucci, image director at the LVMH give it even more credibility,” Seidman said. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand, said The grand-prize winner will be fl own to New the jeans are an evolution of the solid colors York to work with Ford’s stable of fashion talent on Williamson did in the Pucci line for fall. their own photo shoot. Designer and stylist Annebet “In the Fifties, my dad [brand founder Duvall will accompany the winner to an Express Emilio Pucci] did colored in store to choose items for the shoot. Julien Farel will silk or cotton, and these jeans are to serve as hairstylist for the Ford models appearing me a modern interpretation of those in the shoot, which will be photographed by Tim styles,” she said. Geaney. The winner will receive a $1,000 gift card Pucci said she chose Seven For and 100 composite cards of the shoot. All Mankind, which is being acquired Express will also give out prizes to the top 56 by VF Corp. for some $775 million, be- submissions. The top six runners up will receive cause of her affi nity for the U.S. brand $500 gift cards and 50 third-place winners will re- and for its stretch concept. As for ceive $100 gift cards. cut, the stretch jeans feature Seven’s The contest will draw attention to Express’ new straight-leg style and are embroidered b-t-s denim assortment, which has been broken into with Pucci’s archetypical initial on three pricing tiers ranging from $59.50 for the X2 col- the back pocket. They also have ex- lection to as much as $125 for the King of Prides pre- clusive copper hardware and a Pucci- mium offering. Seidman described the b-t-s season as a printed waistband and pocket label. “vital time of the year in terms of volume” for denim. The colors match Pucci’s heritage Express is using the contest to increase traffi c on with a selection of Mediterranean hues its Web site, which it hopes will translate into higher that range from rust to moss green to bur- Looks from the limited in-store foot traffi c. Visitors to the Web site can print gundy. Seven’s top-selling Manchester style edition collaboration a coupon for use in the store, and anyone who spends has been heavily overdyed to create a satu- between Pucci and $40 and uses the coupon will receive a subscription to rated wash. Seven For All Mankind. Lucky or Details magazine. Seidman said the contest This isn’t the fi rst time Pucci has dabbled in a cobranding project. Other was a step toward the company’s goal of transforming partnerships have included skis with Rossignol, color cosmetics with the Web site into an online retail environment. Guerlain and pens with Omas. — Ross Tucker — Alessandra Ilari 8 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007

Executives wallets’ remained healthy last year, despite management shifts TheWWDList within some of the most prominent companies. Headlining departures included Paul Charron, former chairman of the board and chief executive offi cer of Liz Claiborne Inc., and Mark Weber, former ceo of Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. When added together, the top 10 vendors made nearly $89 million in their compensation packages. An interesting note: The top 10 vendor executives this year are all men — the top-ranked woman, Trudy The Boys’ Club F. Sullivan, outgoing president of Liz Claiborne Inc. (she announced her resignation in June), comes in at number 12. For additional rankings, Top vendor executives ranked by the values of their annual please visit WWD.com. — Cecily Hall, with contributions from Jeanine Poggi compensation packages* in 2006. RALPH LAUREN, 67, CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD AND CEO, POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. Total value: $25.9 million Base salary: $1 million; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $8.2 million; Other: $16.6 million off to Lauren, whose company’s strong growth continued last year. Lauren said in a statement in March, “We have made signifi cant progress on all fronts, from opening new luxury stores to initiating steps to expand our accessories business in new categories such as watches and fi ne 1 jewelry, to taking direct control of our Japanese business and our Internet business.” WWD reported last month, “On the ‘other compensation’ line of the pay disclosures, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. said, ‘In fi scal 2007, Mr. Lauren received perquisites and other personal benefi ts, including supplemental medical expenses ($64,086), use of an automobile and driver ($46,470), personal security and merchandise discounts.’” ROGER N. FARAH, 54, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. Total value: $12.5 million Base salary: $900,000; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $8.6 million; Other: $3 million Farah is another executive riding the wave of Polo’s growth, which saw profi ts rise 30.2 percent to $400.9 million and total revenues increase by 14.7 percent to $4.3 billion in the year ended March 31. Farah joined Polo in 2000, at which time Lauren told DNR, “I’ve known Roger for 25 years and 2 I’ve actively recruited him. He’s one of the best talents in the retail world.” During his tenure, Farah has helped direct Polo’s global retail expansion, taken control of several of the group’s licenses and generally helped drive Polo toward its goal of becoming a true American luxury house.

PAUL R. CHARRON, 64, FORMER CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD AND CEO, LIZ CLAIBORNE INC. Total value: $9.8 million Base salary: $1.5 million; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $7.9 million; Other: $428,739 It’s been a wild ride lately at Liz Claiborne, which on Tuesday reported a 65 percent decline in profi ts for the second quarter in a row. In November, Charron retired as chairman and ceo to become chairman emeritus and remains on as a consultant for the rest of this year. He was replaced by 3 William L. McComb, who has spent the last few months devising a strategy to halt the slide in Claiborne’s profi ts and sales — which includes selling off many of the acquisitions made during Charron’s tenure.

ROBERT MARGOLIS, 59, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, CHEROKEE INC. Total value: $8.8 million Base salary: $737,000; Bonus: $8 million; Stock and options: $0; Other: $21,000 The chairman and ceo has had an interesting ride with Van Nuys, Calif.-based Cherokee. After cofounding the apparel division of Cherokee in 1981, Margolis became co-chairman of the board, president and ceo in 1990 and chairman of the board in 1993. He then resigned all of his positions with 4 Cherokee in the fall of 1993, but rejoined the company once again as chairman and ceo in 1995. The Cherokee brand’s revenues soared to $76.6 million last year — a 79 percent change from the year prior. Full-year earnings reached $34.8 million, up from $18.3 million in 2005.

EMANUEL CHIRICO, 50, CEO, PHILLIPS-VAN HEUSEN CORP. Total value: $6.7 million Base salary: $992,436; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $1.7 million; Other: $4 million At Phillips-Van Heusen’s annual shareholders meeting in June, Chirico outlined a retail strategy to open full-price Calvin Klein white label stores in the U.S. over the next 24 months. Calvin Klein is the top-tier brand at PVH and Chirico called it a “licensing machine.” As for the brand’s future, 5 he told WWD: “Calvin Klein is not just about image and brand, it’s also about growth. We believe over the next fi ve years, we can grow the Calvin Klein franchise by an incremental $2 billion to $3 billion worldwide. That will take us to a size of about $7 [billion] or $7.5 billion as a global brand.” Chirico replaced Mark Weber as ceo on Feb. 27, 2006, previously serving as PVH’s president and chief operating offi cer at the company. KENNETH P. PUCKER, 44, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT AND CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, TIMBERLAND CO. Total value: $6 million Base salary: $536,250; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $5.2 million; Other: $246,168 For Timberland fi rst-quarter performance, total revenues were $336.3 million, down 3.9 percent from the year-ago quarter, as the company experienced declines in sales of and kids’ footwear. Having joined Stratham, N.H.-based Timberland in 1992, Pucker assumed the executive 6 vice president and ceo position in 2001. However, he left the company in March. Jeffrey Swartz, president and ceo of the company, stated in a release, “I have been privileged to build our brand and our business with Ken. He has helped me position Timberland for long-term success in many ways.”

JEFFREY B. SWARTZ, 47, PRESIDENT AND CEO, TIMBERLAND CO. Total value: $5.6 million Base salary: $818,750; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $4.2 million; Other: $603,864 Swartz is the third generation of the family to lead Timberland — his grandfather, Nathan, founded the brand in 1952, when he purchased part of the Abington Co. The name was offi cially changed in 1978. Swartz has been president and ceo of Timberland since June 1998, and he’s been with 7 the company since 1986. Fortune named Timberland Co. as one its “100 Best Companies to Work For” in 2006. At the end of last year, the company operated 20 specialty stores and 61 factory outlet stores in the U.S., along with 133 specialty shops and 32 factory outlet stores in Europe and Asia.

MARK WEBER, 58, FORMER CEO, PHILLIPS-VAN HEUSEN CORP. Total value: $5 million Base salary: $91,667; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $0; Other: $5 million Weber succeeded Bruce Klatsky as ceo in 2005 but was pushed out by the board in February 2006 after only eight months on the job. He since has become chairman and ceo of Donna Karan International, the subsidiary of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. In connection with the 8 termination of his employment, Weber received severance payments totaling $2.5 million.

JOSEPH R. GROMEK, 60, PRESIDENT AND CEO, INC. Total value: $4.3 million Base salary: $991,667; Bonus: $954,400; Stock and options: $2 million; Other: $296,236 Gromek, who has been president and ceo since 2003, told analysts on a conference call in May, “We are truly a global company with nearly 50 percent of our revenues generated outside of the U.S. Our acquisition last year of Calvin Klein Jeans Europe and Asia refl ected that vision and is 9 driving our performance today.” The company is hoping to enhance its swim division’s growth — it had a 2.3 percent net revenue gain from fi scal year 2005 to 2006, but has lagged behind intimates (at 11.3 percent) and sportswear (at 54 percent). The apparel conglomerate’s portfolio boasts brands such as Anne Cole and Calvin Klein swimwear, Olga intimate apparel and sportswear. KENNETH D. COLE, 53, PRINICPAL EXECUTIVE OFFICER, KENNETH COLE PRODUCTIONS INC. Total value: $4.1 million Base salary: $1 million; Bonus: $0; Stock and options: $1.5 million; Other: $1.6 million Though the company has lost two key executives this year — chief operating offi cer Joel Newman and Kenneth Cole New York brand president Joshua Schulman — Cole, the company’s founder, remains in his seat. Cole has served as the company’s chairman and ceo since its inception in 10 1982 and was also president until February 2002. Kenneth Cole New York will not return to the runway in September, as previously announced. The company is instead preparing for its silver anniversary during the next fi ve months.

SOURCE: SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION FILINGS AS OF JULY; NIKE, COACH AND QUIKSILVER HAVE NOT FILED PROXIES FOR THIS YEAR AS OF JULY 30; FOR THE RANKINGS, ONLY THE TOP TWO HIGHEST-PAID EXECUTIVES WERE TAKEN FROM EACH PUBLICLY HELD COMPANY TRACKED BY WWD; *PACKAGE VALUES INCLUDE BASE SALARY, BONUS AND STOCK OPTIONS AND OTHER AWARDS WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 9 WWD.COM

BUILDING within the group. His answer hasn’t changed: He TRUST: said the company is committed to the division MEMO PAD Maybe and is “focusing on the titles that can have a Lauren Is Leading Man all the life in the online space.” Publishing revenues of celebrities were taken for Condé Nast’s “Point $1.3 billion were essentially fl at for the second of Passion” campaign. Over at Time Inc., it’s quarter, refl ecting higher ad revenues, offset by media buying executives who are the headliners lower “other” revenues. Operating income rose Among U.S. Vendor Execs of the company’s new corporate ad campaign, 13 percent to $256 million, based on an increase “Trusted Connections.” The campaign focuses before depreciation and amortization. Continued from page one on four media executives who control purchasing Condé Nast also owns WWD, although the than $8.5 million. plans in Time Inc. and other titles. They were “Point of Passion” campaign is only for the The pay packages for Lauren and Farah stem from Polo’s photographed to represent the Time Inc. brand glossy magazines and Web destination Web substantial growth over the last few years. The American fash- of their choice and, in a statement, executive sites. — Irin Carmon and Amy Wicks ion brand reported a 30 percent jump in full-year earnings last vice president Stephanie George drummed the year, to $400.9 million, or $3.73 a diluted share, from $308 mil- point home: “These fabulous executives have CAMERA READY: Photographer Norman Jean Roy has lion, or $2.87 a share, in 2005. always had star status in our world,” she gushed. signed a corporate contract with Condé Nast to In a year fi lled with changes and debate regarding how So who are these celebrities in the Time Inc. shoot for a number of its glossy fashion magazines, executive pay should be reported, the top 10 vendor execu- universe? They’re John Lisko of Saatchi & Saatchi, including Glamour, Vogue, Men’s Vogue and Vanity tives received compensation packages totaling $88.8 million. George Janson of Mediaedge:cia, Robin Steinberg of Fair. Roy joins the publisher’s stable of high-profi le But while in past years the vendor side was where the money MediaVest and Andrew Swinand of Starcom. photographers with corporate contracts such as was, 2006 proved to be an exception. As reported last week, The campaign will run in the traditional trade Annie Leibovitz and Patrick Demarchelier. Roy has the top 10 highest-compensated executives of American retail- and online venues, as well as on taxi tops and in regularly shot covers and features for Vanity Fair, ers earned a total of $198.7 million last year. The amount was Times Square. It was dreamed up by its in-house GQ, Men’s Vogue and Glamour, where he has boosted by stock options, with the list led by Robert Ulrich, marketing and creative executives. photographed female role models in its Women chairman and ceo of Target Corp., whose compensation pack- One of the campaign’s tag lines, “We don’t sell of the Year package. Outside of magazines, Roy age totaled $36.4 million. pages. We sell attention,” was clearly front of mind has shot campaigns for Visa, Avon, Samsonite, Even the executives in the second and third spots on this at the company’s Digital Showcase Wednesday, Showtime and Lycra. — Stephanie D. Smith year’s retailer list earned more than Lauren. H. Lee Scott Jr., given the recent shift in focus on many of its Web president and ceo of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., received a total pack- sites from page views to “engagement.” This GROWING BUT SHRINKING: Blueprint isn’t increasing age of $29.7 million in 2006, while Michael S. Jeffries, chairman coincides with a decision by Nielsen/NetRatings its frequency next year, but come January, it will and ceo of Abercrombie & Fitch Co., received $26.2 million. last month to give measurement of time spent on once again raise its rate base. After increasing its As for Farah — he wouldn’t have even made the top 10 on the a site more weight than simple page view rankings. rate base to 400,000 for the July/August issue retailers’ list, which contained R. Brad Martin, retired chair- Even before the Nielsen move, some Time Inc. from 350,000, the personal style magazine will man of Saks Inc., in the 10th spot with a total compensation of sites already had begun to shift their emphasis grow to 450,000 early next year. But Blueprint $12.9 million. from breaking news to video content and social owner Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia was in a Clearly the lists mirror the states of the two sides of the media, as shown in presentations from people. giveth-and-taketh-away mode during a conference industry. Retail generally has been booming over the last few com’s Mark Golin, si.com’s Paul Fichtenbaum and call Wednesday: Susan Lyne, president and ceo, years at companies like Target, Abercrombie & Fitch, Guess Southern Progress Corp. representatives. Executive said the group is reallocating $10 million it and American Eagle Outfi tters Inc. The vendor side, however vice president John Squires acknowledged that, previously had earmarked for Blueprint. The — apart from a few fi rms like Polo — has been struggling with while those brands have made fairly natural company is shifting its marketing efforts from retail consolidation and growing competition from private transitions online, it is more “diffi cult to consider sending direct mail to potential subscribers to label. Liz Claiborne Inc. on Tuesday reported a 65 percent drop a unique position online” for a site like time.com, investing in more Internet expansion, including in profi ts for the second quarter in a row, while Jones Apparel relaunched in January, though he hopefully pointed Blueprint, Lyne said. The rest of the money will Group on Wednesday reported a loss of $47 million. to that site’s blogs. fold back into the group’s bottom line. Executives from Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. and Timberland Time Inc. also is beginning to package its It needs the boost. Operating income in the Co. also placed in the top 10. principal 15 Web titles — those that have seen publishing division fell to $5.1 million in the Emanuel Chirico, ceo at Phillips-Van Heusen, and Mark the most investment so far — as a group buy. The second quarter, compared with $6.1 million Weber, former ceo, received compensation packages of $6.7 mil- digital future was touted as the company’s savior a year earlier, even though revenues rose 16 lion and $5.1 million, respectively. in an earnings conference call, also Wednesday, percent to $47.5 million. Ad pages jumped 12 Weber, who stepped down from PVH in February 2006, is en- during which Time Warner chairman and chief percent at Martha Stewart Living and 22 percent titled to severance equal to three times his average cash com- executive offi cer Dick Parsons said that just about at Everyday Food. Total ad revenues increased 23 pensation, which includes his base salary and bonus for the every quarter, he is asked about Time Inc.’s future percent in the quarter to $27.8 million. — A.W. 2004-05 reporting season. Even though Timberland posted a 35 percent decline in full- year earnings, Kenneth P. Pucker, executive vice president and chief operating offi cer, and Jeffrey B. Swartz, president and ceo, still received hefty pay packages. Pucker earned a total compensation of $6 million, which in- Bill Blass in Deal to Do Fur cluded a base salary of $536,250, while Swartz received $5.6 mil- lion, with a base salary of $818,750. Neither received a bonus. By Marc Karimzadeh extension of the brand.” In February, Timberland announced that Pucker would Blass once had a fur licensee in Mohl Fur Co., “transition” from the company effective March 31. NEW YORK — Peter Som, newly minted cre- but decided to terminate that license in the mid- Earnings at the footwear maker in 2006 fell to $106.4 million, ative director of women’s at Bill Blass, already Eighties. or $1.67 a diluted share, from $164.6 million, or $2.43, in the has another category to sink his teeth into. The new collection features pieces such as a year prior. Bill Blass Ltd. has inked a licensing deal with Loden-dyed chinchilla and an embroidered Cherokee chairman and ceo Robert Margolis received an $8 The Global Fur Group to manufacture and dis- black broadtail coat. It retails at prices such as million bonus after the company reported a 90 percent surge tribute furs under the Blass name. The Montreal- $9,800 for a mink charcoal , $10,600 for a in full-year earnings. The bonus is on top of a base salary of based company said it will take its cues from the Loden corduroy sheared mink coat and $36,000 $737,000. fi rm’s ready-to-wear collection. The fur line will for a feathered Russian sable coat. In 2006, income at Cherokee soared to $34.8 million, or $3.93 launch this fall at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman The Global Fur Group consists of divisions in- a diluted share, from $18.3 million, or $2.07, in 2005. Marcus and smaller specialty stores. cluding Natural Furs International, Global Furs Noticeably missing from the list were executives from Nike, “The Global Fur Group will be a great partner Inc. and Interco, and is the North American li- Coach and Quiksilver. Those companies had not fi led their ex- for us as we continue to build on the Bill Blass censee for Féraud. ecutives’ compensation packages as of press time. Last year, image and lifestyle categories,” Robert D’Loren, “With our innovative design team and under- each company had executives on the top 10 list. president and chief executive offi cer of NexCen standing of the Blass vision, we are confi dent in There is no direct comparison between executive compen- Brands Inc., which owns Bill Blass, said in a the success of this relationship,” said Christina sation in 2006 and 2005 given new Securities and Exchange statement. “We view this collaboration with The Nacos, vice president of The Global Fur Group, Commission rules on how companies report their executive Global Fur Group as a great step forward in the in the statement. pay packages. For the fi rst time, stock and options awards are required to be reported in dollar amounts as part of the fi ling changes mandated by the SEC. Still, similarly to retailers, stock and options awards made up the bulk of the compensation packages for executives at G-III Apparel Adds Ellen Tracy License vendor fi rms, totaling $39 million for the top 10. However, this paled against retail executives, who reaped stock and options NEW YORK — Seeking to expand a portfolio that includes Guess, Cole Haan and Kenneth Cole, G-III awards worth $124.8 million. Apparel Group Ltd. has signed a licensing deal with bridge brand Ellen Tracy to produce women’s The SEC now requires all companies to fi le compensation and dresses. packages in a “plain language” format. The goal is to change G-III expects to deliver its dress line in the spring, with suits shipping for fall 2009. The company said how companies decide executive compensation, making pack- these additions build on the apparel group’s Ellen Tracy outwear business, which launched in 2004. ages more performance-based with less guaranteed pay. “We’ve been very successful with Ellen Tracy ,” G-III chief operating offi cer Wayne Miller The new format forces companies to reveal how they deter- said in an interview. “We felt [that] with the success of the coat business and our success with mine salaries, supply a fl eshed-out description of their perks, Calvin Klein dresses, this would be the next brand for us to launch. We feel great about it. We provide stock and option awards in a dollar amount and outline think it’s going to be very successful.” goals set for executives. In May, G-III signed an $8.1 million deal to acquire dress company Jessica Howard Ltd. and The SEC, however, is not requiring companies to recalculate denim supplier Industrial Cotton Inc. Its other fashion labels include Calvin Klein, Sean John, prior years’ pay packages in the new format. As a result, the Jones New York, Nine West, Izod and Tommy Hilfi ger. 2006 pay packages are not comparable with those from 2005. Ellen Tracy, a division of Liz Claiborne Inc., sells designer bridge sportswear at luxury depart- ment stores, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s. — Molly Fergus 10 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 WWD.COM Swimwear Report

The suits retail for $94 to $120. “What we hear from the Guess retail stores is that it is more of an enhanced customer that is coming in and buying it,” she said. “That is a totally different customer than the D cup in Next by Athena.” Many women in their 30s and beyond with implants Sizing up Swim may, however, be seeking swimwear that is not quite so showy. “We are getting to the generation when the By Rachel Brown never want to leave out any,” said Brooke Winston, a women who had enhancement in their early 20s are former fi t expert at Everything But Water who now is a becoming moms now,” said Vogel. “They have to have ensing a mounting demand for D-cup swimwear, Raj consultant for Becca. support and coverage for that.” SManufacturing last year retooled its Next by Athena Lori Medici, vice president of marketing at Perry The D-cup market has matured with the customer, brand to offer up to a D cup in -style sizing. Ellis, said the swimwear buying habits of teenage and offering silhouettes such as halters and triangles in a The move paid off, with the D cups comprising one- young adult shoppers came into play when its Jantzen range of styles that won’t make a woman appear that third of Raj’s Next by Athena business. As a whole, brand decided to include D-cup sizes last year. Perry she is wearing a to the beach. For example, Chica the Tustin, Calif.-based company’s sales increased 130 Ellis has enlarged its assortment of D cups in its Rica, which had underwire and triangle styles in large percent year-over-year, and a substantial chunk of the namesake brand for next year, and has experienced cup sizes, supplemented its D and DD sizes with halters increase was due to Next by Athena’s revamp. strength in D sizes in its Jag brand, a longtime resource two years ago. Quinn Stickline pointed to Becca tankinis “It seems like whether you are an A, B or C [cup], it for D-cup wearers. that are popular with the D-cup crowd. is easy to fi nd swimwear,” said Lisa Vogel, co-president “There is a youth demographic that is a little But gaps still persist in the D-cup-and-larger market. of Raj Manufacturing. “It used to be really a specialty healthier, more well-endowed. There is the combination Quinn Stickline mentioned that one-pieces could use a store business, where women who were looking for of that along with plastic surgery,” said Medici. “We saw wider diversity of larger cup offerings, and Vogel said [large] cup sizes had to go into specialty stores, but it that [the D-cup suits were] a very profi table business the lack of options in one-pieces is why Athena Pick has really changed. A lot of the major department stores for us, and it was an area that we had a demand for. Your Fit is jumping into the business. “We can still are asking for them.” Because, as a major manufacturer, we sell to such an develop D-cup silhouettes for her that look like what her For the 2008 swimwear season, Raj’s pursuit of the D- array of retail distribution channels, we are getting non-D-cup peers are wearing,” said Quinn Stickline. cup-and-above customer has heated up even more. DD requests across the board.” Additionally, most retailers and manufacturers that cups have been added to Next by Athena, and Athena’s Breast implants are proof that plus-size women aren’t are not plus-size specialists stay away from anything contemporary sister brand, Athena Pick Your Fit, the only D-cup shoppers. While it is diffi cult to ascertain above DD. Everything But Water has a few E styles, but received a helping of D cups in one- and two-piece suits. their exact impact on the category, anecdotal evidence primarily stops at DD. “It is a much more challenging Also in Raj’s brand portfolio, O’Neill Swimwear and Guess Swimwear have moved into D cups. Robin L’Space’s Hot Tuna’s Vix’s Roomy tops aren’t new to the swimwear Piccone’s nylon and nylon and polyamide industry, but they’ve mostly been isolated to nylon and spandex Lycra and the plus-size or misses’ corner in the past. spandex . spandex elastane However, this season is shaping up to be the D . bikini. swimsuit. cup’s coming-out parade, according to Vogel. The mainstreaming of the D cup is taking place on all levels: Brands from across the swim spectrum — designer to junior — are elevating their size options, and retailers, from online to specialty to department stores, are coming along for the ride. “D is representing a terrific part of our volume,” said Bridget Quinn Stickline, vice president of merchandising at swim specialty chain Everything But Water. “I tend to fi nd that this customer is not as embarrassed as she is frustrated. She is more concerned about the fact that she doesn’t have what she wants. We want to make sure she is feeling that she has a really good selection.” She added that five of Everything But Water’s top 10 sellers this year are either D or DD styles. Robin Piccone, which is available at Everything But Water, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom, is among the designer suggests women with implants have signifi cant size to fi t. You are really talking about what support swim brands introducing D cups for the 2008 swimwear buying power. “Even our account in they need,” said Quinn Stickline of E cups. “I am a big season. “There are a lot of women out Alaska will say, ‘You have no idea how many believer that you shouldn’t do anything that you aren’t there who have great fi gures, and they boob jobs we have,’” Ellyce Zolt, partner in the going to do well.” want something that is fashionable and Ronnie & Ellyce Sales Showroom, told WWD Traditionally, online and specialty retailers have not frumpy,” said Roy Schwartz, vice earlier this year. The showroom represents been havens for customers with the largest busts. Not president of Robin Piccone. Endless Sun, a contemporary separates brand only has their choice of D styles and above been more Exactly who the shopper is that runs up to an E cup. complete, but online retailers also have been able to who’s driving expansion Plastic surgery statistics back up anecdotal guide the shopper through the frequently terrifying in the large-cup market claims. The American Society for Aesthetic swimsuit experience with fit instructions and by remains hard to pin Plastic Surgery reported that 383,886 breast well-received D-and-above styles. down. Certainly, as augmentations were performed in the U.S. in “Because it is an area that has previously not been Schwartz indicated, 2006, and augmentation was, for the fi rst time well serviced, it is something that people are more there are naturally last year, the top cosmetic surgery procedure likely to come to the Internet for,” said Sarah Dolan- large-breasted women, chosen by women. Overall, ASAPS estimated Abrahams, a buyer at online lingerie and swimwear plus-size or otherwise, the number of cosmetic surgery procedures has retailer Figleaves.com. “Some people don’t feel who are requesting jumped 446 percent in nearly a decade. comfortable going [to stores] and getting someone to chic suits that Like naturally large-breasted women, fi t them. It is more comfortable for them to do it in previously were hard artifi cially enhanced women can’t easily be their homes.” to fi nd. With waistlines widening, this group encompasses all ages and is only expected to There are a lot of women out there who have great fi gures, continue growing. “ But vendors and and they want something that is fashionable and not frumpy. retailers caution that surmising — Roy Schwartz, Robin Piccone” that large-cup customers are necessarily older or plus-size women can be misguided. “There is a general perception that the D- categorized by their swimwear shopping As D cups and above spread through the retail cup guest is a larger guest,” said behavior. Shelby McDougall, president of channels, though, Vogel is closely watching to see if Gary DeShon, a vice president at Miami based-Chica Rica Bikini Co., has they will gain traction in retailers such as department Becca swimwear. “She is out there discovered that often young women with and surf stores that have traditionally not carried vast in different sizes and shapes. She breast implants don’t purchase large tops, amounts of larger sizes. Macy’s and Dillard’s bought is not just wanting solids. She wants preferring smaller sizes. Chica Rica makes Next by Athena, and Macy’s also has picked up O’Neill prints, crochets, textures.” D and DD tops in its Chica and Jelly junior swimwear in D sizes. Becca provides D cups in every brands, and its customers are principally 18- But Jill Klein, a buyer for online surf retailer Swell, group of separates it produces. For to 25-year-old women. suggested the O’Neill D sizes might not work well D-cup wearers who aren’t plus-sized At Raj, Vogel said the Guess Collection’s everywhere. Swell carries sized extra small in all body parts, the variety allows D-cup additions could be for that enhanced to large in O’Neill, and small to large in other brands, pairings of large tops with small and customer seeking including Roxy, Billabong and Volcom. “I don’t think a medium bottoms. Swim Systems’ nylon fashionable — and D cup should be wearing a majority of the styles that we and spandex bikini. “There are so many body types, you noticeable — . offer,” she said. MONICA SCHWEIGER ALEXIS BENVENISTE; STYLED BY MODELS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: CAROLINE SALVIA/L.A. TYLER BOYE; PHOTOS BY Is Iowa the new fashion mecca? It’s possible, now that DuPont has created a renewably sourced Paris. polymer for fabric with corn, DuPont™ Sorona®. It’s exactly what manufacturers, designers and buyers look for in a premiere fabric. Rich, vibrant colors. True blacks and whites. Comfort Milan. stretch and recovery. Fade resistance. Easy care. It also has something unexpected—it’s smart for the environment. That’s because it’s the only high-performance polymer made with a renewable New York. resource. So not only will Sorona® make consumers feel good in their activewear, swimwear or even lingerie, they’ll feel great about your brand. 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© 2007 DuPont. All rights reserved. The DuPont Oval Logo, DuPont™, The miracles of science™, Sorona® and Renewably Sourced™ are registered trademarks or trademarks of E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company or its affiliates. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 WWD.COM Swimwear A mother-daughter look Mommy and Me from Aqua Swimwear. By Kavita Daswani estimates sales are up nearly 90 percent, with a significant online n what is proving to be a fun niche in the swim industry, business and distribution through Imore designers are fashioning mother-daughter swimwear, stores like Planet Blue. tapping into what they say is a trend that had its genesis in For the current season, styles street clothes and T-shirts, but has since overlapped into include a rainbow-colored bikini with all categories. chocolate brown trim, a wasabi green Denise Richards and Kelly Ripa have shown up on the beach style with a peace sign on the bottom in crocheted Lyla Blu bikinis, their young daughters sporting and a black-and-white striped version the same style. Brooke Shields and her two baby girls have with a red rose motif. been spotted in Greta’s Garden fl oral-print swim ensembles “They’re a little hippie and rock made by Aqua Swimwear, and actress/model-turned-designer ’n’ roll,” said Leija. “But I see more Elizabeth Hurley has added to her swim line a sexy leopard moms in great shape who want to be print one-piece swimsuit featuring a daring lace-up front for hip and have these matching bikinis mom and a sweet ruffl e on a pint-size version for girls. for their girls.” The bikinis wholesale Natalie Walker, president of Aqua Swimwear in Palos Verdes for $27 to $28 for the kids’ versions, Estates, Calif., is among those who champion the trend. “I and $60 for the adult sizes. thought, wouldn’t it be so cute to match my little girl’s swimsuit The Elizabeth Hurley Beach to my own?” she said. collection, which sells at numerous The brand launched fi ve years ago with around fi ve fabrics stores around the world, including and a handful of styles, but has grown to include resortwear, Scoop in the U.S., does a thriving cover-ups and dresses, and sells in approximately 50 stores business in matching mother- nationwide. The collection features pretty, lively prints and daughter swimsuits, Hurley said. colors — including lots of pink, fresh-looking whites and “I’ve always felt faintly guilty blues — and includes extras like dangling crystal hearts, about loving mother-daughter styles, embroideries and appliqués. but I’ve always thought it can look “We always have matching skirts for both mother and enchanting,” she said. daughter that they can wear like a sun dress, as well as Styles include virtually identical matching T-shirts,” Walker said. pieces with a few details changed, as Wholesale prices are $21 to $24 for the children’s line and well as coordinating suits, such as a $44 for the women’s offerings. (All the adult-sized clothes are sold as separates.) Walker said the biggest challenge lies I’ve always felt faintly guilty about loving in merchandising: The ideal “ is to have both collections mother-daughter styles, but I’ve always sold side-by-side, but most thought it can look enchanting. retailers aren’t able to accommodate that. ” — Elizabeth Hurley Walker is building the business through family- Elizabeth Hurley friendly resort stores. kid’s printed bikini trimmed has added mother- “We’re also working with event people to bring back the idea with a solid, and a matching solid daughter swimwear of mother-daughter times,” said Walker. “I remember the good- for the mother. The prices range at to her line. old days when moms and daughters would do things together. wholesale from $31 for the kids’ We’d like to incorporate teas, fashion shows, things that moms looks to $61 for adult suits, and can bring their little girls to to have fun together.” additional offerings include Some designers say they started creating the mommy-and- , fl ip-fl ops, caftans me looks as a result of customer demand. Lyla Blu, an Oak and beach bags. Park, Calif., brand, originally started as a children’s clothing “We use the same very A Lyla Blue crocheted line in 2005. But when designer Lisa Leija turned out an soft, expensive Italian Lycra bikini for girls. offering of cute, best-selling crocheted bikinis for children, [spandex] for both the kids mothers asked her to do identical pieces for them. Now going and the adult swim[suits] and into its third season, the mother-daughter bikinis represent manufacture entirely in Italy,” an increasingly important part of Lyla Blu’s business. Leija Hurley said. Designers caution that creating these collections is more nuanced than simply shrinking an adult swim line. “You have to have things that a little girl would want to dress up in and coordinate that to something mummy would wear,” said Rhona Sutton, designer of Beautique, a swim company with offi ces in London and New York. The company is known for its embellished suits, so Sutton uses beading and stones in different ways for both categories. The children’s and women’s collections are kept separate, with styles that cross over between the two. A navy suit in a larger size might come Matching in a softer blue for a young girl, and a leopard-print coordinating trim can unify both looks. one-pieces The suits wholesale from $16 to $25 for by Elizabeth Hurley Beach. the kids and $45 to $65 for the adults. A Lyla Blu The mother-daughter trend is being seen crocheted at all price points. Old Navy is doing mix-and- bikini for match bikinis for $16.50 per piece at retail for adults. adults and $8.50 per piece for little girls. Bold colors like coral, yellow, blue and purple are important this season. “Old Navy makes it chic by incorporating similar patterns and colors in both the adult and children’s line,” said a spokeswoman for the company. “This way they have the option of whether or not they want to match head to toe.” Beautique’s Sutton believes the trend won’t wane in the near future. “It’s going to last at least the next 10 years,” she said. “People are enamored with their children now, and want to give them what they can. And for mothers, it’s like reliving their childhood all over again.” Suit yourself.

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Join us, August 27 – 30, 2007 Las Vegas Hilton www.MAGIConline.com 14 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 WWD.COM Senate Committee Passes Bill Earnest’s Perennial Pop-up Targeting China Manipulation By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — A pop-up store By Kristi Ellis The Senate Finance Comm- is, by its very nature, tempo- ittee’s bill, sponsored by Sens. rary. Earnest Sewn, however, WASHINGTON — The Senate Max Baucus (D., Mont.), Chuck has made the transitory con- Banking, Housing and Urban Grassley (R., Iowa), Charles cept a permanent feature of its Affairs Committee passed a bill Schumer (D., N.Y.) and Lindsey An Earnest Cut & Sew store at Wednesday that would pressure Graham (R., S.C.), would es- 821 Washington Street in the China to raise the value of its tablish new rules to punish Meatpacking District. currency by giving the Treasury China, including the imposi- The denim retailer has re- Department more leeway in tion of U.S. antidumping du- served a 420-square-foot room at finding China guilty of currency ties, if the country doesn’t raise the back of the 2,500-square-foot manipulation. the value of its currency. The unit for highlighting “like-minded The bill, introduced by Sens. Dodd-Shelby bill does not pro- businesses,” said Carlos Quirarte, Earnest Sewn’s Christopher Dodd (D., Conn.) vide any trade remedies, but director of business development Meatpacking District and Richard Shelby (R., Ala.), it does require consultations and strategic marketing. “[Pop- store has a permanent would “strengthen the existing — as does the Baucus bill — at up stores] bring us other custom- pop-up store. manipulation framework by re- the World Trade Organization ers and introduce our customers moving the ‘intent’ requirement if the Treasury secretary fi nds to brands we love and think are from the criteria needed for the manipulation and if bilateral special. We get a mix of uptown A selection of Repetto shoes. Treasury to fi nd that a nation talks fail, which could ultimate- and downtown people.” is manipulating its currency,” ly result in WTO sanctions. Brands invited to partici- Shelby said. Both legislative proposals pate “get a white box and can Critics of the Bush admin- give the president authority to put anything they want into it,” istration’s approach have said waive any recommendations for Quirarte said. it uses the “intent” factor to punitive remedies against China In September, footwear brand avoid labeling China a curren- for national security and eco- Repetto will unveil a pop-up cy manipulator. nomic reasons. Senate leaders shop at Earnest Sewn designed The bill’s passage by a 17-to- will now have to fi nd a compro- to look like a miniature version 4 vote followed another bill ap- mise between the two bills. of its Paris fl agship, replete with proved by the Senate Finance Many in the U.S. textile in- gilt mirrors, antique tables and Committee last week that calls dustry have lobbied for a stron- chandeliers. The footwear, which for punitive action against China ger currency bill that contains has its roots in ballet shoes, if it doesn’t reform its currency, trade remedies, such as coun- is sold at , the yuan. The actions in the tervailing duties. Colette, Harvey Nichols and 10

Democratic-controlled Senate “Certainly, whatever legisla- Corso Como, among others. ANTONOV PASHA PHOTOS BY drew a sharp response from the tion moves to the fl oor has to have Repetto will use the pop-up Bush administration. a [countervailing duty] remedy shop to introduce styles and as Comme des Garçons, Yohji ballet dancer, wore a pair of red Treasury Secretary Henry because it is the most effective educate customers about its Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Repetto ballet fl ats in the movie Paulson Jr., Commerce Secretary remedy out there, and we would shoes, which are made by hand Véronique Branquinho, whose “And God Created Woman.” Serge Carlos Gutierrez and U.S. Trade like to see that in the bill,” said in France. The handmade aspect designs are part of the current Gainsbourg was devoted to the Representative Susan Schwab, in a spokesman for the American of Repetto appealed to Earnest collection. Repetto, which pro- Zizi calfskin lace-up jazz shoe for a letter sent to Senate Majority Manufacturing Trade Action Sewn, which hand-sands and duces several styles that are col- more than 20 years, said Polaert. Leader Harry Reid on Monday, Coalition, which represents tex- hand-washes its jeans. Earnest laborations with Earnest Sewn, In addition to the Zizi and the called the legislative proposals tile manufacturers, including Sewn also offers custom jeans, will occupy the space for 90 days Bardot ballet fl at, other Repetto the “wrong approach.” Milliken & Co. “In our view, this which are produced by sewers rather than the usual 45. “We styles include the Garbo, black “These bills will not accom- bill needs to be strengthened.” in the store’s lower level using have an upcoming Repetto and patent leather lace-up high- plish our shared goal of per- Retailers are opposed to the specialty and the cus- Earnest Sewn Eco line of or- heeled booties, which retail for suading China to implement bills pressuring China to revalue tomer’s choice of thread color, ganic canvas shoes in two signa- $295, and the Grease, black car- economic reforms and move its currency. back pocket design, locker loop ture styles,” said Quirarte. “It’s bon metallic leather ankle boots, more quickly to a market-deter- “The remedies in the bill color and hardware. They cost the green shoe from Repetto by at $420. The Bardot comes in mined exchange rate,” the three would harm U.S. companies between $500 and $800. Scott Morrison [Earnest Sewn’s many styles, including chocolate cabinet members said in the let- doing business in China, the Earnest Sewn in the spring will president and designer]. python, $405; leopard-print pony, ter, warning the proposals could largest export market for U.S. launch a new line called Earnest “This is Repetto’s first re- $405, and stingray, $300 to $500. spark a trade war. goods and services,” Erik I Am, with price points between tail initiative in the U.S.,” said Previous pop-up stores at the But Dodd, underscoring the Autor, vice president and inter- $124 and $148. The jeans are de- Natacha Polaert, the brand’s An Earnest Cut & Sew boutique sentiments of many in Congress, national trade counsel at the scribed as similar to Helmut Lang spokeswoman, adding the com- were dedicated to John Derian said at the hearing: “Dialogue National Retail Federation, Jeans, which was once one of the pany is actively looking for store housewares; House of Waris jew- alone does not produce the re- said in a statement. hottest labels. Earnest I Am will sites in New York and Beverly elry; Malin + Goetz skin care; sults necessary to level the play- The House Ways and Means have more modern, cleaner wash- Hills. “Earnest Sewn will have Santa Maria Novella fragrances ing fi eld for American workers Committee is set to hold a hear- es than the core product. shoes no one else has seen.” and skin care; Carpe Diem hand- and businesses. That is why we ing today to consider several Repetto has a tradition of col- Repetto has a storied history. cobbled shoes, and Jimmyjane introduced [the bill]. It is leg- bills targeting China’s currency laborating with designers such Brigitte Bardot, who was a trained luxury sex toys. islation that creates tough new with U.S. trade remedies, as it authority for [the administra- tries to build a consensus on tion] and Congress to address what legislation it might move currency manipulation and mar- when lawmakers return from a ket access barriers.” monthlong recess in September. Lane Crawford Expanding in China By Robert Murphy which to expand. France’s Galeries Lafayette is working on a PARIS — Hong Kong retailer Lane Crawford is store in Dubai, and is also studying the possibil- Urban Brands Taps New President charging into Mainland China. ity of opening in China. Harvey Nichols has al- rban Brands Inc. on Wednesday named Steve Newman, for- The fi rm on Thursday revealed plans to open “sev- ready opened in the Middle East, Istanbul and Umer president of Brooks Brothers and Eddie Bauer, to be eral” wholly owned stores in key Chinese cities over Hong Kong. It plans to open a store in Jakarta, president of the women’s specialty apparel chain. the next fi ve years, beginning with an 80,000-square- Indonesia, next year. Saks Fifth Avenue, which The move by the Secaucus, N.J.-based operator of the Ashley foot unit in Beijing’s new Seasons Place mall. also runs stores in the Middle East, is working on Stewart and Marianne plus-size brands comes “as we expand our That store, which Lane Crawford said involves a unit in Shanghai. concepts, grow our store base and offer our unique fashion per- an investment of 300 million Hong Kong dollars, or With the Summer Olympics scheduled for spective to our customers,” chief executive offi cer Ethan Shapiro $38 million at current exchange, is slated to open Beijing next year, retailers anticipate a surge in said in a statement. in October. It will feature some 600 brands, includ- visibility and spending. Urban Brands operates 300 stores across the U.S., Puerto Rico ing Prada, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Alexander “Our research shows that there is a Beijing cus- and the U.S. Virgin Islands. McQueen and Maison Martin Margiela. tomer with a desire to differentiate themselves,” “Both Ashley Stewart and Marianne have great growth poten- Jennifer Woo, the retailer’s president, said other said Woo. “The China fashion customer is one of tial,” Newman, who was also executive vice president of mer- cities targeted for openings include Shanghai and the most sophisticated and brand-savvy in the chandising, design and store presentation for New York & Co., Macao. world today.” said in a statement. “I look forward to working with the talent The Beijing store, designed by the Yabu As part of the new expansion plan, Lane that already exists at both brands.” Pushelberg architectural fi rm, features a towering Crawford said it discontinued its former license Dean Kehler, managing partner at private equity fi rm Trimaran multimedia wall and an undulating glass facade. and franchise operations in China’s Shanghai, Capital Partners, parent of Urban Brands, and an Urban Brands “We have conducted extensive market research, Hangzhou and Harbin. director, said in a statement that Newman has an “outstanding and with the ever-increasing number of high-net- Lane Crawford operates more than 450 stores track record for success” and “will help take Urban Brands to the worth individuals and affl uent customers supported in 46 markets across Asia, including its namesake next level in terms of fashion, quality and value for our custom- by an aspirational market of approximately 4 million stores, Joyce Boutique and Imaginex. ers.” in Beijing, we believe there are exciting opportuni- On Thursday, Lane Crawford also said same- The appointment is effective immediately. ties for Lane Crawford in this market,” said Woo. store sales for its fi scal year, which ended in — Molly Fergus Lane Crawford’s move into China comes as March, advanced 23 percent. It did not provide international retailers look for new markets in further details. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 2, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

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Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 puter proficiency (word, excel, outlook) To discuss this opportunity, please a must. Please fax resumes to Please fax or email resume and salary Send resumes to: [email protected] 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 requirements to (Attn. HR212): email: [email protected] or or fax to A Rodriguez at: 212.768.3588 212.354.1950 call 212-704-2565. 212-944-8409 or [email protected] Design/Prod’n. Asst. IMPORT/PRODUCTION ASST Assistant Technical Sweaters/Cut & Sew Knits/Woven Import- Jewelry company seeking detail oriented per- Production Coordinator SALES HELP WANTED Designer er seeks a dynamic person speaking fluent son w/3+ years exp in imports & production. Garment importer seeks detail oriented Leading embellishment company of English/Chinese. Fax to: 212-391-5800 Ladies Apparel Company seeking de- Edi exp. & domestic shipping exp for major person with min. 5 yrs. import prod’n. 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Also need degree required, along with significant a minimum of 2 + years of experience. experience with Illustrator & Photoshop. industry experience. Email letter of PATTERN MAKER Duties will include, but are not limited to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Fax or E-mail resumes to M. Antonelli at: application and current resume to: DRESSES •Good computer skills a must 212-730-7581 / [email protected] [email protected] ( Illustrator & Photoshop ) PRODUCTIONS No phone calls please. For info: www.BerkeleyCollege.edu Maggy London; a major New York All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. based design driven better dress mfr. •Detail packages for production overseas •MUST have technical knowledge & Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Design Fast paced, high energy, growing has immediate openings for production Tracy Reese Women’s Apparel Co. seeks: pattern makers. The ideal candidates construction of garments ASSOC DESIGNER should posses production pattermaking Candidate must have strong interperso- Exciting Sales Oppty PATTERNS, SAMPLES, GRAPHIC DESIGNER dress experience on both table and nal, verbal and written skills. Must be Seeking energetic self motivated sales WOVENS/CUT & SEW computer pattermaking. Lectra system organized, self motivated, a team player, associate to work in our NYC boutique. PRODUCTIONS Min 2+ yrs exp in Apparel Industry Must love selling, building relation- Better sportswear separates division with strong Photoshop & Illustrator preferred. Fax in confidence w/ salary detailed oriented. Must have ability to Full service shop to the trade. seeks action oriented team player ships and giving excellent customer Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. skills required. Must have an excellent requirements. ( Benefits / 401K) to: work under minimum supervision. Being w/excellent technical and organizational able to multi-task is critical to the success service. Competitive compensation & color sense to create production ready Fax: 201-964-5892 or full benefits. You must have an estab- skills. Responsibilities include imple- original artwork for both in Mens & Email: [email protected] of this position. E-mail resume (including) menting designs w/direction from head Salary History to: [email protected] lished client book. Pls e-mail resume PATTERNS & SAMPLES Womens. This includes placement to Danielle: [email protected] SMALL PRODUCTION designer, excellent flat sketching, de- prints, t- graphics, embroideries, velop tech packs, design and production all over prints & seasonal re-coloring. Fast - Accurate - Reliable follow-up, fabric and trend research, fit Call: 212-217-9750 Responsibilities also include commu- and color approvals, daily communica- nication with overseas factories & cre- tion with overseas, production and ating production packages as necessary. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD sales departments 3 years experience. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Photoshop & Illustrator a must. Must be a self-starter, exp working in a sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 E-mail resume: fast paced environment, meet dead- [email protected] lines & able to multi-task. Great opportunity for growth and excellent benefit package. Email resume to: recruitment suppliers [email protected] or fax Independent Sales resume: 212-827-3073 Attn: BM Representatives- Girls opportunities Fast paced, high energy, growing Women’s Apparel Co. seeks: travel DESIGN ASSISTANT DanskinGirl, a children’s activewear real estate collection by Danskin seeking Min of 3 yrs exp in sketching flats on Independent Sales Reps to cover: Illustrator, creating boards, pitch prints — New England — Mid-Atlantic The ultimate real estate decision-makers, including & yarn dyes, sourcing fabrics & trims, — South Atlantic — Midwest woven exp a plus. Must have strong Il- owners, partners and CEOs, subscribe to WWD. lustrator & Photoshop skills, good Ideal candidates must have strong sense of color, organized, be a self- existing relationships with national/ starter, exp working in a fast paced regional department, sporting goods & environment & able to multi-task. specialty stores. These road warriors will also possess strong presentation Great opportunity for growth and follow-up skills. and excellent benefit package. E-mail resumes to: Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. Email resume: [email protected] [email protected] or or fax resume: 212 827 3344 Attn: CH Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. Fax resumes to: (212) 930 - 9103 EOE/M/F/D/V