ISSUE Nº2 SPRING | SUMMER 2011

Stephen Alexander on the cover (you're welcome ladies). We grilled the Cumbrae owner with T19 92 questions while he fed us meat TERRONI MAGAZINE

Featured Region

What do you get when two Italian chefs cook up some trouble in a tiny kitchen? Four delicious recipes, that’s what

FINALLY! Learn the difference between Cosimo Jr. and Cosimo Sr.

Five favourite food scenes in Italian film 2

Contributors

Publisher Rick and Sandra Kang Elena di Maria When Sandra isn't busy being the art director of VMagazine and Vman in New York, she's either buying wholesome ingredients for inspired Editor-in-Chief Jessica Allen culinary concoctions or she’s drawing. When Rick isn't busy paying the bills, he's making comics and reppin' “Scarboro.” See more of his stuff at Design todaysmathletics.com. Small

Assistant Editors Tara Downs Elizabeth Pagliacolo Natalie Urquhart Elizabeth has been a pretty solid regular at Terroni Queen West since she was 15 — including the year she worked at the Victoria Street loca- Copy Editor tion that's since morphed into Osteria Ciceri e Tria while finishing her Carolyn Pioro Ryerson journalism degree. When she's not immersed in architecture and design as an editor at Azure magazine, she's dreaming of burrata Columnists and plotting when she will next gorge on a piece of sufficiently Giovanna Alonzi Max Stefanelli smothered in it.

Contributors Rick Kang Bryan Porterfield Sandra Kang A recent trip to northern is all it took to tip photographer Bryan’s Elizabeth Pagliacolo passion for Italian food over the edge. Since his return, he cannot re- Stephanie Palmer Mark Venturi member ever having had such strong food cravings and when asked by Bryan Porterfield his friend chef Giovanna Alonzi to shoot the food for our second issue John Szabo (featuring recipes and wines from Sicily), he jumped at the opportunity. After working with the colourful team at T magazine, he is completely Admin. Managers intrigued by the Sicilian region and longs to visit the alluring island and Patti Shaw sip on granita. Karina Watsone

The Berkshire Many thanks to Stephen Alexander John Szabo “Collection” Bella Alexander John added the “MS” credentials to his name in 2004, becoming one available Simon Gadke of only 180 overly dedicated master sommeliers currently sipping wine Albion Macleod worldwide. John’s chalk-full calendar includes restaurant and private cli- exclusively Anna Mammoliti Cosimo Mammoliti ent consulting, teaching, speaking and traveling the wine regions of the at Terroni Vince Mammoliti world. He writes regularly for WineAlign.com, Wine Access, CityBites, Cosimo Pagliacolo WineFox.ca and Niagara & County Grapevine magazines. Oh, and he’s Stephanie Palmer responsible for the delicious wine you drink at Terroni, too. Sarah Watson

T Magazine Mark Venturi Headquarters Mark’s enthusiasm for movies is contagious. So we asked the Terroni 720 Queen St. W. Queen West server to write about his five favourite food scenes from Ital- Toronto, M6J 1E8 ian films for our new “Aficionado” column. Mark has worked as an actor, For inquiries and a freelance photographer, a grip in the film business and a carpenter. He comments please email: has also art-directed for Nuit Blanche (2009), produced, written and di- [email protected] rected several shorts films and is at work on his next film project.

Follow us on Twitter (@terronito) and Facebook (Terroni and Terroni: Los Angeles), and don’t forget to click “like”.

Printed in Canada Paper : Rolland Enviro 100 Paper SAPEVI CHE by Rick & Sandra Kang 3 A c KNOW? DID YOU KNOW? DID YOU When her husband tasted tasted husband her When o it, inspirati dish is like a true a true like is dish mic by rick & sandra Kang & sandra rick by mic Sign inna l inna my family’s been been my family’s kitchens kitchens N Hey - I’m Mel, - I’m Mel, Hey w

Mel AnzanA. AnzanA. Mel When We Make Sausage They s They 0 0 the years… the 0 rma! ra, this this ra, nder what they they what nder Giuseppe was b was Giuseppe 0 taste like? taste Whudduya mean? mean? Whudduya tta Italian Italian tta 0 n struck. 0 that way! that pretty, I pretty, 0 ver ver

0 In ricordo di Vincenzo Mammoliti rn rn October 8, 1930 – June 13, 2010 d 0 giuseppe ate giuseppe 0 he’s a f he’s Mamma mia! mia! Mamma n’t eat them! eat them! n’t ne an’ n an’ ne Me and Vince, we first worked together at Terroni Queen Street making sausage. The 00

0 first day we made only a small batch. We l! w put in the salt and then taste; the pepper and then taste; the paprika, chili flakes and red wine, and then taste — one by one be- basil, and deep-fried pieces pieces deep-fried and garlic basil, cause we didn’t know the amounts at first. Italian dishes. Take alla n pasta Take alla dishes. Italian maniche pasta, t maniche

But s But We did that every Tuesday until Adelaide opened up in 2007. Then we started making the sausage there. Every week we prepared 00 200 kilos of sausage over two days. The n we was in all kinds kinds all wasn in we first day we start early at 7:00am and break down the meat, grind it and mix in every- asian! It was the turks turks the was It asian! what intr what o

0 thing with our hands. The second day we riginally s riginally Eur mat package it up for all the locations. At first Thing is, we’re we’re is, Thing o 0 we only talked about the sausage but after pe inna 16 inna pe sauce, aged ric aged sauce, a few times we talked about family and life. N o being the name name the being Vincenz greatest her greatest 0 - and - and 0 duced us t us duced When Vince got sick, Rita called us to make m pera c pera rma, rma, o 0 sure he didn’t work too hard and we tried utheast utheast st bel 0 0 peras. 0 00

0 but he didn’t listen. He liked to work. He’d ’ s 0 0 0 ne ne 0 rma: mezze mezze rma: f c Bellini’s Bellini’s 0

f eggplant… have his lunch at Adelaide almost every day s mp . uthern uthern 0 0 0 o of the week. It was very nice. And we miss 0 ved ved f his f his urse, urse,

0 0 ser ser him. But now Rita comes to help. I think ine ine tta, tta, 0

f Vince told her exactly how to do things and the way we make sausage today is 100 per cent Vince’s recipe. The first day she came to help, she cried, thinking about Vince. She

…first created by the wife wife the by created …first misses him. It was sad for me, too. But now Mart it’s okay. We talk about everything, and we laugh — just like before. 0 gli 0 f 0 “n As told by Selvendran Thiruchelvam Eur r a lunche o at fiRst. They just used us us used just They at fiRst. y (Selvano), Head Chef, Terroni Adelaide xi 0 o Italian eggplant dishes - dishes eggplant Italian u can find pasta alla n pasta alla find u can o to Jessica Allen The name stuck, and n and stuck, name The - and all kinds kinds all - and peans didn’t even eat us eat us even didn’t peans us apples” ( apples” us acr Photos by Staphanie Palmer as dec as See, them dizzy dizzy them See, 0 0 ss the p the ss 0 n she was h was n she o f Italian p f Italian rati mela insana mela o 0 ns! 0 nd, t f 0 0 0 ther ther 00 sting. et Nin et 0 0 . w rma rma ) 0

SOMEONE’S IN THE KITCHEN WITH 5 6 STEPHEN ALEXANDER

‹‹ Jess ›› When you moved here from Austra- Around Cosimo and Elena lia 1993 and opened up Cumbrae could you have ever imagined the sort of celebrity sta- Mammoliti’s dinner table, tus that butchers currently enjoy in this city? Jessica Allen chews the fat ›› Stephen ‹‹ No, not at all — not even close. My dad has a theory on this, actually. Every- with the Cumbrae owner, thing has come full circle and people are who supplies Terroni with appreciating those that do something with their hands — the people that make things. their carne, about love, ‹ Bella › I have a theory — I believe it’s also life and how he bought because he doesn’t fit the mould of a butch- er. the farm. And his charming ›› S ‹‹ No! wife, Bella, chimes in too. ‹ B › Yes! Every article you read about him, the first thing they say is about the way he looks. Every time. “He’s built like a whatever and he looks like something out of…” ›› S ‹‹ No, no, no. That doesn’t explain the worldwide fascination with artisanal butchery. › Cosi ‹ (In the kitchen) Okay I need some help over here. ›› S ‹‹ Okay buddy, I’m coming to work. ‹‹ J ›› One quick question because once we sit down with this bunch it’ll be hard to Antipasto: tuna two ways — ventr- ① “I grew up on grass-fed menu all the time. We used to sell lambs I’ve still got the old plaque on the wall. talk: when you got here were farmers ea- esca (cured tuna belly) and seared in Australia — all our lambs, brains as a standard everyday item, like ‹‹ J ›› Where was it? ger to participate with you and your ideol- tuna loin — along with a pistachio everything. We are very pork chops, in my dad’s store. ‹ B › On Church Street. ogy, which is essentially raise an animal hu- and . A few bottles spoiled there: there’s so ‹‹ J ›› In Australia? ‹‹ J ›› It’s not the shop you’re in now? much inexpensive pastoral manely, feed them well, and the end product of Outis Etna Rosso 2009 from Vini land and a climate that dic- ›› S ‹‹ Yeah — the shops I grew up in. ›› S ‹‹ Yeah! will be something of superior quality? Biondi in Sicily are opened in order tates no bounds. We have ‹‹ J ›› Where in Australia? ‹‹ J ›› What? How did I not know this? ›› S ‹‹ Yes and no. They were skeptical. to help keep us on track with our Si- sheep stations in Australia ›› S ‹‹ Melbourne: born and raised there. I ›› S ‹‹ All my shops have soul. Like my one Some of them looked at you with two heads. cilian themed dinner. that are the size of a thou- lived in Sidney for a while too and butch- in Dundas, Ont. — it was a butcher shop But I think rural communities have had a sand farms here; literally, ered up there as well. in 1927. We have old pictures of it and they tough go for a long time and it’s a hard way › C ‹ Cheers everyone and thanks for par- a 100,000 acres. And the ‹‹ J ›› There’s three generations of butchers had tree trunks for butcher blocks — liter- sheep are all out there and to make a living. Profits are small. But now ticipating the night before Good Friday. there’s no feed because they in your family — including your father. ally, huge old trees. It adds something nice. there’s an openness. It boils down to them ›› S ‹‹ Oh man: this pistachio thing is stupid just eat the grass. They’re Does he still have a shop in Melbourne? ‹‹ J ›› I like that. But the Church Street getting good money for a good product. good! And you know, I think tuna belly is huge operations but they’re ›› S ‹‹ No, he’s retired now. But the shop was shop — that was the shop that you guys That’s the beauty of what we did: we took one of the greatest things ever. the most organic you get in called Alexander’s. spent all your 22 year-old money on? away the marketplace and went directly to ‹‹ J ›› Stephen, what’s the weirdest thing the world” SA ‹‹ J ›› Did you work there after school? ›› S ‹‹ Yeah. I didn’t even know Toronto: I’d these guys and it was a done deal. that a chef has ever ordered from you? ‹ B › No, he left school. Oh sorry — I sho- only been here about a year. How it came Were farmers already raising live- Can I ask you something Jess? Is that ② “Genetics and feed uldn’t answer his questions. No, no, no. about is that the original Cumbrae farmer, ‹‹ J ›› › C ‹ are — and I’ve always stock in this way when you arrived? just coming off the top of your head or do said this and I’ll probably ‹‹ J ›› I love it! It’s okay! Alistair, who literally had a little tiny farm ›› S ‹‹ Yeah, there were a lot of what I call you plan these questions out? always say this until the ‹ B › No, no. (Pause) Do you want me to tell and a pickup truck and he raised beef, lamb traditional farms; small family farms in On- ‹‹ J ›› I plan them out — usually before bed, day I die — feed is 50% and you how we met? and pork, and I met him in Oakville in 1993 tario that are practicing just that. There’s a looking into a mirror and talking to myself. genetics are 50%. The big- ‹‹ J ›› Uh, yeah! or 94 and he said, “You’ve got to see this ton of them out there: it’s just a matter of go- You’re making fun of me, but it’s a good gest problem with corn fed ‹ B › If you want to write what the reason is great old shop on Church St. downtown ing out and finding the right guys doing the question! is if you’ve got to admin- behind Stephen’s success, I’m not saying any- that’s going out of business.” He wanted ister antibiotics in order right things and using the right feeds. It’s ›› S ‹‹ To be honest, nothing really. Blood, to keep feed through them thing, but I’m just saying: behind every great me to take it over: we’d be partners — I’d not that complicated. That’s why I think you tripe, feet — it’s stuff that’s not that weird. then there’s an issue with man…(laughter erupts around the table.) I’ll be the butcher and he’d be the farmer. see a lot of people doing it. ‹‹ J ›› What about balls? that. We’ve fed cattle with tell you that after we got married — and it was ‹ B › And we were actually ready to go back ‹‹ J ›› Were you guys the first ones to › C ‹ Let’s talk about balls. free choice alfalfa or free a Portuguese wedding so we had a little mon- to Australia. do it? ›› S ‹‹ Ten years ago I’d say that would choice red clover hay. But ey — this shop became available and Ste- ›› S ‹‹ Yeah, we were ready to leave, but we ›› S ‹‹ Well, people have been doing this have been something unusual but now the bottom line is that they phen was like, “I don’t know if we should do it go downtown to look at this shop and we are happy animals who eat since the start of time, so it’s not like I came everything is so offal-friendly and chefs grass and eat hay.” SA because we’ll have to spend all of our money. thought, what the hell, let’s give it a go. And up with the idea. But were we the first people are always experimenting so it’s not a big “And I was like, We’re 22! Spend it! Who cares!” the rest is history. And a year later, I bought to bring that type of product to the Ontario deal. Hearts, livers — everything you can It was all we had but it was enough to start the out Alistair and then he came to me two market place? Yeah, absolutely: Cumbrae imagine. business. years later saying he wanted to retire so I was a pioneer in that. I think that’s why we ‹‹ J ›› What about brain? ›› S ‹‹ It was an old rundown shop — it was bought the farm. made such a big splash: because no one else ›› S ‹‹ Oh yeah, brains too. That’s quite com- crazy. But the beauty of it is that the space ‹‹ J ›› Did you just say you bought the farm? was doing it. mon: the Black Hoof has brains on their has been a butcher shop since the 1920s. ›› S ‹‹ Yeah. SOMEONE’S IN THE KITCHEN WITH 7 8 DISH IT OUT STEPHEN ALEXANDER

Text and photos by: What Terroni customers are Tara Downs obsessing about right now

Momiji Kishi, Current food obsessions I’m really into barista seasonal, local food. I work at the Dufferin market so I know what’s coming and what’s champion in season. It tastes so different. When I was Dark Horse a kid it was all about seasons; you would never see tomatoes in the winter. Eating lo- cal is so basic but it’s such a pleasure be- cause you have to savour that moment. Terroni addiction I love the spaghetti al ‹‹ J ›› I just think we got the title for our story. beautiful man I’ve ever seen.” (Squealing ③ “I’ll tell you one thing — limone. It’s refreshing and I had never had a from the female guests.) But after 20 years, and Cosimo and I talk dish like that before coming to Terroni. Primo: Spaghetti alla chitarra with I just don’t think like that anymore. To me, about this all the time. I Devotee since My first time at Terroni love the parallels between he’s just the idiot that leaves his underwear was on the patio in the summer, when there Asparagus, micro-greens, cured tuna belly, anchovies, orange our two companies. It’s sprouts, radishes and juice, bottarga and bread crumbs, on the floor. unreal, the way everything was the herb garden on the side. That was tomatoes from the Dufferin washed down with a few bottles of all evolved — we started around 2001, 2002, when the location on market M.I. Etna Rosso 2006 from Vini Bion- Secondo: A four-and-a-half week dry- around the same time with Queen St. was smaller, just the ground floor. di, Sicily. aged porterhouse (like a bistecca tiny little shops, one or two alla Fiorentina) and two seven-week guys working away, in the ›› S ‹‹ Cosi you’ve got game, my friend — that dry-aged Wagu beef rib steaks from trenches and really bring- Current food obsessions I’m a super- ing it together. Cosi, in es- Mike Krupica, is an incredible pasta. You’ve got chops the Cumbrae farm — all barbecued sence, brought what is true, co-owner of picky eater but I’m better now. Differ- brother. by the butcher himself. Plus, bowls of simple classic Italian, from Mascot Cafe ent foods on a plate still shouldn’t touch, › C ‹ I love thick spaghetti but when I was a just-flown-in-from-Puglia burrata, his region, to the city — and though. The mash potatoes shouldn’t touch kid and my mother made thick spaghetti I with cherry tomatoes and arugola, inspired so many in Toronto the corn, which doesn’t touch the apple- would not eat it — it had to be spaghettini. and a fontina cheese soufflé made and I think Cumbrae did the sauce. Well, perhaps the cream corn and ‹‹ J ›› What a little princess you were! by Elena. And topping it all off? The same.” SA applesauce can be combined — but outside › C ‹ Now, I can only eat thick spaghetti. wine! An ’02 Burgundy, courtesy of of that everything has its place. ‹ B › Can I just say that my favourite part of Stephen and Bella, followed by a ’96 Terroni addiction I love Terroni because the interview with Carlo [Rota] in the first is- Barolo and finished with a ’98 Barolo. I can eat the same thing day after day; the sue was when Cosi says he was waiting for a fagiolo salad. On the last four days of my the right girl to come along. (To Stephen:) ›› S ‹‹ I’m just going to carve a bunch of stuff cleanse last month I ate at least one meal You never say shit like that to me. up here. there a day. Deconstructed a fagiolo - ›› S ‹‹ What do you mean “never”? Come on, I › C ‹ Yeah, you’re going to carve it up and Devotee since I’ve been coming here for no touching say shit like that all the time! (Much hooting put all the fat on your plate. I’m onto you — I four or five years. Usually I go alone, though and hollering from dinner guests.) see what you’re doing. with a “Let me in and let me out” philoso- › C ‹ Excuse me, but can I say something? ›› S ‹‹ These are crazy, crazy perfectly cooked. phy. I don’t want to talk. This is very typical what’s going on here, in › C ‹ You are carving up a storm, bro! And that Stephen, my good friend, is under a lot you know what, I’ll tell you something — he of stress with his business — didn’t know how many people were coming Tibi Tibi Current food obsessions The problem ‹ B › And let me tell you something, my over tonight, I think I originally told him six, Neuspiel, with food is once I have a small amount of friend: it is busy at home too. (More hooting.) and then I invited four more people. So I was something I just want more, even if I’m not ‹‹ J ›› Oh…this is going to get good. thinking, “Do I have to call him to tell him artist hungry: the moment I have a taste, it will › C ‹ Let me finish. What I was saying is that to bring a little more meat?” And I thought, distract me and I won’t be able to get it off Stephen and Bella, also my good friend, ob- No, I don’t have to tell him. And I mean, look my mind. But if I get over it by having a viously have a wonderful relationship and what he brought, right? lot at once I’ll be satisfied. Grapes, for ex- they have children and balancing business ›› S ‹‹ So there are two completely different ample, you never want to just have one at a and your home life is what it’s all about. steaks going on here guys. You’ll notice that time — you need 15 or 20, chewing them for ‹ B › I agree. the Fiorentina is a little firmer — beautiful a huge flavour sensation. It’s not something ‹‹ J ›› Okay, I have to ask you, Bella, does all flavour though. What do you guys think? I think about, it just ends up happening. So of the attention Stephen gets regarding his › C ‹ It’s like butter. Like f- - king butter. You I don’t buy food in bulk. Cashews are also a appearance, which is very average if you ask don’t even need a knife. problem, if I buy the salted ones. Grapes and cashews me, ever bother you? ‹‹ J ›› This is gorgeous. It’s obscene. It’s like Terroni addiction There really aren’t too ‹ B › Oh no, God no — not even for a second. eating candy. many things on the menu I can eat so I usu- I’ve never been like that. I forget that the first ‹ B › You see? He’s not just a pretty face. ally go for the salads. (In addition to serious time I saw him when I was 20 and in Greece, cravings Tibi has a gluten and dairy allergy.) I turned to my girlfriend and said, “Nothing by Jessica Allen Devotee since I’ve been there a few times is going to come of this but that is the most in the last four years. TASTING SICILIA 10 TASTING SICILIA Master Sommelier John Szabo navigates the island's He’s back! rugged beauty, smoking Max Stefanelli, volcanos and vino buono Terroni L.A.’s fearless leader, sniffs and swirls his way through our Sicilian wines and shares his tasting notes with us

SICILIA 2009 “Kudyah” Nero d’Avola IGT, Terre di Giurfo Aromas and flavours of black plum, black Sicilian red selection on the cherry, herbs and black olives surround OUR Los Angeles wine list features a wonderful meaty texture, with enough over 18 nerello mascale and only a few nero chewiness to make the wine stand up to d’Avola, cerasuolo and frappato. The reason food. This is the ideal spaghetti ca pumma- that I don’t like the popular Sicilian grapes: rola wine, at a price that will bring a smile they lack acidity, tannins, complexity and to your face every time you open a bottle. they don’t age well. On the other hand, nero d’Avola is one of the most important south- ① Because the island you’re reading this, you’re likely a Ter- largest and occasionally smoking volcano. ern Italian reds and as a sommelier my job 2006 “Outis” Etna Rosso DOC, is essentially a triangle, If roni regular and you’ve already fig- While drinking an Etna wine, imagine the is to find the wines that best represent the Vini Biondi Sicily has been known as ured out that Sicily makes tasty wines. And volcanic rock crunching underfoot and the “genre” so I ought to take a second sip. Too Outis, which means “nobody” in Greek, is Trinacria since antiquity. you’re not alone: even the experts — anyone burn in your thighs as you climb the ludi- often, Sicilians deliver jammy, oaky reds the pseudonym Homer gave to Odysseus Today, the symbol of the trinacria — three legs spi- who knows the difference between Mon- crously steep slopes, past the impoverished that can compete for the title of the shittiest when the hero met up with the one-eyed ter- ralling around the head of tepulciano and Michelangelo — rank the is- yields of ancient, seemingly haphazardly Californian cabernets where all you taste is ror Polyphemus on the foothills of Mount Medusa — can be found on land's wine among the world's best in terms staked vines, and it’ll all make sense. The the sweet vanilla from the French barrique. Etna. This ruby-red wine is made with ner- the regional flag of Sicily. of value and quality. whites, made principally from carricante These kinds of wines can’t show any link to ello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, and Sicily is the largest island in the Medi- grapes, are some of Italy’s most mineral and the terroir and they’re so unspecific in their it’s got plenty of woodsy notes and just a terranean. It’s a land of rugged beauty and intriguing, while the reds made from nerello taste that they could come from anywhere hint of vanilla, plus chestnuts. Think: red strong tradition, woven together by a succes- mascalese and nerello cappuccio are among in the world. meat. Think: caponata. sion of occupiers that reads like an historical the most elegant and singular, with an un- Thank God we met Achille Alessi from who’s who: Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Goths, mistakable taste of volcanic essence. (A Terre di Giurfo, a winery on the south-east Arabs, Normans, Angevins, Aragonese and good thing.) side of the island. This noble doctor from 2008 “Outis” Etna Bianco DOC, Bourbons, among others. This multi-millen- There is one DOCG (Denominazione Catania decided a few years ago to stop Vini Biondi nial mix of cultures has resulted in a fasci- di Origine Controllata e Garantita): Cera- selling grapes to the big Sicilian wineries Mostly made with the carricante grape plus nating region of incredible richness in art, suolo di Vittoria. It’s a delicious light cherry- from his estate and start making his own some other varietals, including malvasia. literature, architecture, cuisine and wine. coloured (hence, cerasuolo) red made in the wines. And lucky for us, too. There’s volcanic stone, amazing minerality, And in wine terms, Sicily is a giant: it has southeast corner of the island around the citrus and pear juice in this beauty. Drink more acreage than any other Italian region. town of Vittoria, from a traditional blend of with grilled or fried calamari. You won’t re- The majority of its wine comes under the is- Sicily’s most important red grape, the sturdy gret it. land-encompassing Indicazione Geografica nero d’Avola, and the delicate, pinot noir-like Tipica Sicilia designation, which allows for frappato, with its pale garnet colour, light ETNA maximum flexibility of grapes and styles. tannins and smoke and earth-tinged straw- 2007 “M.I.” Etna Rosso DOC, ② Mount Etna, which rises This is where you’ll find most of Sicily’s in- berry flavours. Vini Biondi 3,330 metres high, is about ternational calling card: nero d’Avola — a Sicilian whites from native varieties to Etna, one of my favourite Some of Ciro’s top vines are situated in a two and half times higher versatile grape that can span the spectrum (grillo, catarratto, inzolia, grecanico) are for Now southern Italian regions. dormant, steep crater on nearby Mount than Mount Vesuvius. The from juicy and peppery (think northern the most part light, crisp, fresh and rarely The volcanic altitude and exposure of this Ilice, including his M.I. Etna Rosso. This volcano is also known as Muncibeddu, meaning Rhône syrah), right through to deeply co- aged in wood. Most are best consumed terroir gives to these old vines a structure beauty has all the transparency, earthy “beautiful mountain” in loured, rich, plush and solidly structured. It within a year or two. These are aperitivi, or you can only find in the most important wine depth, perfume and tension of a Burgundy. Sicilian dialect. And the is believed to have originated in the south- seafood and shellfish wines — just imagine regions in the rest of the world. Yet it approaches from somewhere else, per- Roman poet Virgil gave east corner of the island near Siracusa, Ra- yourself on the coast at Taormina, over- And it’s volcanism that defines the haps more primal. The volcanic roots bring what is thought to be a gusa and Avola itself, but today it is grown looking the Straits of Messina while enjoy- wines made by Vini Biondi, a family vine- tangy, rusty orange notes that seem more first-hand description of all over Sicily. ing grilled swordfish in a sauce of olive oil, yard in Trecastagni that’s been growing in keeping with fine Barbaresco. Drink with one of Mount Etna’s erup- tions in the Aeneid. Of the region’s 23 mostly obscure DOCs lemon, capers and Pachino cherry tomatoes, grapes since 1635, and is currently headed some bistecca alla Fiorentina, like my col- (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), the and a bottle of cool, crisp local white. Or just by Mr. Ciro Biondi. leagues did with some butcher guy from one worth knowing is Etna DOC. That red visit Terroni. Cumbrae [see this issue’s Someone’s in the wine grows up at 1,000 metres, on the steep, by Max Stefanelli Kitchen section], or enjoy on its own. volcanic slopes of Mount Etna — Europe’s by John. S. Szabo, MS photos by Stephanie Palmer TASTING SICILIA 11 12 TASTING SICILIA

La Bettola's mad cap chef giovanna Alonzi, Luca Stracquadino Osteria Ciceri e Tria’s makes alchemy in the executive chef, tells us kitchen transforming how the magic happens. simple ingredients into you think of Sicily, sun-kissed from the Sicilian sun and wear- culinary gold. When you probably imagine ing a very slick pair of Badgley Mischka Mount Etna, the Mafia, or maybe even sunglasses. swordfish. I did too, until I met Luca Strac- “This is for you,” he told me, handing quadino. over a little package of Sicilian almond ① There’s a playful trend I’d heard a lot about Luca, who is now paste. “Take it home and make something among Sicilian chefs, head chef at La Bettola and before that for yourself — cookies, a cake, or just a including Luca, to take helmed the kitchen at Terroni Los Angeles, drink.” Then he handed over a plaster ver- the island’s celebrated before actually meeting him. Specifically I’d sion of the trinacria — an ancient Sicilian primary ingredients out of their classic contexts heard about the special dinners he’d orches- triangular symbol of three legs spiraling in traditional recipes trated in L.A. and his unbelievable aran- around Medusa’s head — to Cosimo, our and incorporate them cini, succulent tuna and caponata. There boss. “We need to put this up somewhere,” into new and innovative were many times when Cosimo and Vince he said. Chocolate from Modica, his home- dishes. would return from L.A. and tease me with, town — and one of the world’s oldest pro- “You know what Luca is doing in LA?” The ducers of that confection — was laid out teasing left me so curious that I remember in various spots throughout the restau- asking Francesca, Terroni L.A.’s sommelier rant. “Try this,” he said, handing me some and wife of the restaurant’s commander-in- basil-infused chocolate. Its flavour was chief, Max Stefanelli, just what was so spe- bright, cool and pure. All I could do was cial about this guy. ask about his sunglasses — what would you ② Once, Luca ran into As it turns out, quite a bit. Francesca, have done? (For the record, they were a gift Giovanna’s Osteria known for her curt honesty, firmly stated, from a Beverly Hills designer as a token of kitchen with a truffle “Luca è Siciliano…bravo.” In other words, thanks for a dinner Luca had prepared.) that weighed about half he’s amazing. When I discovered last sum- § a pound. He had snuck it away from Tony the mer that he was being transferred to To- Sicilians are known to be very proud, truffle guy and was try- ronto in order to run La Bettola, our “best and for good reason. Sicily has one of the ing to get Giovanna to of” Terroni spot beside the Osteria where most interesting histories in Europe. It approach Tony and say, I’m executive chef, I was very excited — and was — and still is — the meeting place of Af- “Thanks for the present scared. While I wanted to work with this rica and Europe; it’s a land that’s been visit- for my new baby.” She talented chef, I was also nervous to share a ed by Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians, Arabs, couldn’t do it, but Tony still breaks into a sweat small space with him: although La Bettola Normans, Germans, Aragonese, Spanish, whenever he has to and Osteria have different kitchens they French and, of , mainland Italians. deal with Luca, who will share many common spaces, not to men- It is precisely this varied history that has haggle with him mania- tion fridges and managers. You see, chatter made the culture of Sicily rich — just like cally until he gets what about his eccentricities and strong, pas- the island’s ingredients, including saffron, he wants. sionate character had preceded Luca’s ar- couscous, almonds and wild fennel. Com- rival. I worried that his temperament paired binations of sweet with sour, saltiness with with my own stubbornness and personal chocolate and fish with cheese appear in a culinary passions could prove to be a dan- way that is singular to Sicily and foreign gerous working arrangement. to every other region of Italy. Sicilian food, × with its colours, spiciness and flair for deco- photography by I vividly remember the first time we ration, is an anomaly in Italian gastronomy. Bryan Porterfield met. It was a typical hot and humid summer And dear Luca — with his unique glamour day in Toronto. And being six months preg- and honest simplicity — has come to em- nant, I felt it even more than usual. body for me everything that Sicily symbol- Luca arrived at the Osteria bearing a izes. bag full of goodies and looking very cool, I had a very good feeling about Luca on TASTING SICILIA 13 14 TASTING SICILIA

that first day. This positive impression was the hardest.” confirmed a few nights later when I caught Luca started out his career “as a joke,” up with him in La Bettola’s kitchen after fin- he says. “I was 14 and I didn’t want to be a ishing my shift at the Osteria. He’d just fin- cook but I was working in my family’s res- ished prepping all the food for the restau- taurant in Modica. I had to work as a piz- rant’s impending opening and was alone zaiolo alongside my aunt. She was very now, handling a pan that spilled over with good — she taught me how to make octopus bucatini all’Amatriciana. “Want some?” and mussels, and through her I fell in love he asked. I was pregnant, thirsty and tired with cooking.” After some stages through- from being in a hot kitchen all day long and out Italy, he went to Paris for a few years eating hot, spicy pasta was not high on my working with celebrated chefs, including to-do list. But I could not refuse. I sat with Alain Ducasse. After that, Luca moved to him on his kitchen counter and we each en- San Francisco to work at Le Figaro and then joyed a plate of the pasta. In that moment to Los Angeles, where he eventually found Luca, who had made the dish with his own his way to Terroni. smoked guanciale, had just made me the While all the places he’s worked have best pasta I’d ever tasted. “This is what I’m left their imprints in Luca’s dishes, it’s Sic- all about,” he said, gesticulating wildly to ily’s influence that stands out the brightest. his plate. “This is what my food is.” The antipasto tramezzino di sardine, for We soon became friends and comrades; instance, features the classic Sicilian pair- ③ “In the antipasto he helped me to not work too many hours ing of eggplant and sardines: it’s a dish that tramezzino di sardine behind the hot line with a big pregnant bel- thrives on the contrast between the crisp, everything is grilled: ly (which must explain my son Mattia’s af- salty sardine and the velvety sweet grilled normally you’d fry it all, finity towards him) and I helped him learn eggplant. but I grill it to make it lighter. You can serve it all about his new city. The spaghetti all’arancia is perfectly with a beautiful season- It was interesting to watch him work. balanced between sweet and salty. “It is al tomato with oregano, Like Sicily, Luca is full of idiosyncrasies. He a baroque dish: all of its ingredients are but that is it.” LS gives the utmost attention and gentleness found in our area,” he says, “but again they to his food, plating everything with his own are very simple: anchovies, orange juice, personal slender metal tongs that look al- bottarga (cured fish roe) — it’s all just a mat- most surgical. While working alongside his ter of knowing how to work them.” cooks, he is strict and demanding. Servers The tagliata di tonno is a very simple at La Bettola receive an even tougher treat- dish but when perfectly executed the tender ment; he expects the best from people and sweetness of the tuna is highlighted by the that they work as hard as he does. And he toasty and buttery pistachio pesto and the has a funny sense of humour: during the result is just lovely. restaurant’s opening he was known for pin- The biancomangiare is a ning signs on servers’ backs that said stuff for mature palates; the bitter sweetness of like “I’m a single lady” or “I like Italian the creamy almonds is contrasted by the men.” He also has a special talent for driv- cold sweetness of the prickly pear granita. ing suppliers mad. He signs all the invoices It is a sophisticated, simple dessert, charac- he receives with an enormous scribble that teristic of Luca’s range. takes him at least five minutes to execute Near the end of our afternoon together, and that renders the bills illegible. I asked Luca what he’d like to accomplish + through his food. “My food is simple,” he Recently I spent an afternoon with Luca says, “and through simple ingredients I ④ “I wanted to use tuna while he prepared dishes for us to share with want people to feel the complexity, sim- in one of these recipes you for this issue. While he cooked — and I plicity and gusto of life — la semplicita’, because it is one of our ate — I asked him to tell me about the phi- la complessità e il gusto del mangiare. I staples. When you enter losophy behind his food, which he was more want them to discover these things by fisheries in Sicily, tuna is usually laid out on the than happy to do: “I’d like to transcend ev- eating.” main counter and its erything I have learned into a single bite; I I suspect Luca will accomplish this: all colour is more pink as love making something marvelous with just you have to do is follow his recipes. opposed to the red ones three ingredients, like the (spa- that you find here.” LS ghetti with cacio cheese and freshly ground by Giovanna Alonzi pepper); I like understanding and maxi- mizing the role each ingredient plays in a dish that only has three. I’d like to educate people through food.” After a brief pause he added, “I’ve done very complex things, but I prefer to do very simple things: they are RECIPES 15

Tramezzino con sarde Eggplant and sardine Insalata d’arance Orange and fennel salad e melanzane layered sandwich e finocchi Ingredients: Procedure: Ingredients: Method: 8 cleaned sardines, halved Slice the eggplant into 2.5 Meanwhile, heat a grill pan 6 oranges (Sicilian blood Peel the oranges, remove 1 large eggplant centimetre-thick rounds. with some extra-virgin olive oranges when available) all of their white skin and 8 slices of white bread, Salt the eggplant and place oil and fry sardine fillets 2 small fennel bulbs cut into rounds about one crusts removed in a colander with some for about a minute per side, salt and pepper to taste centimetre thick. Remove 1 garlic clove, plus basil, weight on top, allowing or until browned. Dab off extra-virgin olive oil the fennel’s outer layer and mint and oregano, all finely them to release their bitter excess oil on paper towels. thinly slice what’s left. chopped water (about an hour). Pat Toast the bread and layer salt and pepper to taste the eggplant dry, sprinkle with eggplant and sardines, Marinate everything with extra virgin olive oil with pepper and grill. until you have two layers extra-virgin olive oil, salt Season the eggplant with of each. Hold everything and pepper to taste. extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, together with a long skewer basil, mint and oregano. and serve.

Spaghetti all’arancia, Spaghetti with orange, Tagliata di tonno con Slices of tuna with sun-dried acciuga, mucchica e anchovy, bread crumbs pomodorini secchi e cherry tomatoes and pista- bottarga di tonno and bottarga pesto al pistacchio chio pesto Ingredients: Procedure: Ingredients: Procedure: 400 g spaghetti Place bread crumbs in a 400 g fresh tuna Slice the cherry tomatoes the tuna from the oven and juice of 4 oranges pan with a drizzle of olive 10 cherry tomatoes in half and season with cut into two centimetre- 12 anchovy fillets oil and toast until they are (preferably Pachino, salt, thyme, basil and finely thick slices. Drizzle with 150 g bread crumbs a dark golden colour and or on the vine) chopped garlic. Bake at 180 some extra-virgin olive oil, 5 g of tuna bottarga crispy. Set aside. In a sepa- fresh thyme and basil for two hours. a pinch of salt and pepper. (cured tuna roe — this in- rate saucepan (or the same 1 garlic clove Spoon the pesto next to the gredient may be omitted) one if you want to save on salt and pepper to taste Meanwhile, crush garlic, tuna and decorate the plate washing dishes), melt the extra-virgin olive oil basil and mint with a with the cherry tomatoes anchovy fillets over low mortar and pestle. Add the and serve. heat in a pan coated with For pistachio pesto: pistachios and continue to olive oil. 200 g shelled pistachios crush. Add as much extra- 1 basil leaf virgin olive oil as needed in Add orange juice and half 1 mint leaf order to achieve a pesto-like of the bottarga. Meanwhile, 1 garlic clove consistency. Preheat oven to boil spaghetti according to extra-virgin olive oil 400. Slice the tuna into four instructions, being careful ( as much as necessary) equal rectangular portions not to overcook. Drain the and season with salt and pasta and add to the sauce pepper. Heat a pan and add pan and toss well. Serve some extra virgin olive oil. the pasta topped with the Sear the tuna on both sides toasted breadcrumbs and and place in the oven for the remaining bottarga. about four minutes. Remove

Biancomangiare Sicilian almond pudding; recipe provided by Terroni pastry chef extraordinaire, Carlo Lazzarino

Ingredients: Procedure: 200 g almond paste Line moulds or ramekins and fold into the almond 9g gelatin sheets with almond oil (if you mixture. Fill moulds and 250 ml cream don’t have almond oil, refrigerate over night. 250 ml water you can line with plastic Remove from moulds using 25 ml orange blossom water wrap, or don’t line at all.) hot water. Serve with sea- (optional) Soak gelatin in cold water. sonal fresh fruit, or a sweet almond oil (NOT extract, Mix the water and almond acidic granita or sorbetto, also optional) paste together in a pot and like raspberry, passionfruit simmer briefly. Add gelatin. or cactus pear. Strain with a chinois and cheesecloth (or a metal sieve). Cool in ice bath. Mix in orange blossom water. Lightly whip the cream AFICIONADO 17 18 AFICIONADO

With his characteristic candour and charm, all-star Terroni server and film buff Mark Venturi spotlights his five favourite food scenes from Italian cinema. Please, read on — preferably with popcorn.

me, cinema really started as a to my hold on reality. I would return to the FOR place to make out with girls. darkened theatre, alone—without Veronica It helped that it was always dark, and that or Nina—and my grasp on real life now darkness allowed my imagination and moved at 24 frames per second and danced hands to run amuck on the far side of sweet in the shimmer of dust thrust into the dark- Veronica’s thigh. Or maybe her name was ness by the light of the projector. I was taken Nina. I’m not sure. What I can tell you is that by the magical transformative power of cin- being a paperboy in 1982 had its perks. I was ema. And I’ve never been the same since! ① Director Vittorio De Sica decided to cast about 10 or 11 and she was, well, wearing cut- The following are five food scenes from amateurs rather than off jean shorts and lipstick. Looking back it’s Italian films. Each has its magic, each its professionals in The hard to say how old my first crushes were. own transformative power, and each holds a Bicycle Thief. But before Years later my shrink would contest me on tender place in my heart. (I’ve included two the director’s decision was many of these encounters, raising doubt as films directed by Italian Americans.) finalized, both Cary Grant and Henry Ford were proposed for the lead role of Antonio Ricci, which The Bicyle Thief, 1948, directed by Vittorio De Sica eventually went to Lam- In this Neorealist film, Antonio Ricci and and bread). The scene is so touching that berto Maggiorani. And his young son,Bruno, look for Antonio’s sto- it’s hard not to get emotional watching it or in a sad ironic twist, Mag- len bicycle in the streets of post-war Rome. writing about it. The young boy who played giorani struggled for work, Frustrated and tired, Antonio loses it and Bruno is one of the best actors to fill the just like the character he played, after the film was smacks his son, who walks away and refuses screen. He should get a Lifetime Achieve- completed. to talk to his father. As an apology, Antonio ment Award for this performance alone. De asks Bruno if he’s hungry. He nods his head Sica is a master director who takes a simple ③ Amarcord, a film that The Godfather Part III, 1990, directed by Francis Ford Coppola yes. Antonio then asks Bruno if he’d like to story and turns it into a profound tale of one screams autobiography Okay so it’s not Part I or Part II but making gnocchi by hand. This scene is worth steal- have a . Bruno lights up with a smile man’s search for dignity. Anyone who has (which director Federico gnocchi never looked so good! Cousins Vin- ing and putting in your vault of things to and off they go. The restaurant, however, ever had a fight with their father and then Fellini has denied, ad- cent Mancini (Andy Garcia) and Mary Cor- do on a third date. You’ll be surprised how mitting only that there doesn’t serve pizza, so they end up having gone for pizza will fall to pieces watching are similarities to his leone (Sophia Coppola) get hot and heavy many 25 year-old women haven’t seen the mozzarella in carrozza (fried mozzarella this scene. own childhood), was the while Vincent shows Mary how to roll little movie. first movie to ever be Big Night, 1996, directed by Stanley Tucci & Campbell Scott released in the letterbox Amarcord, 1973, directed by Federico Fellini Two brothers, Primo and Secondo, struggle about to find out he could elicit the same format when in first I’ve included this scene because I think it the family can convince zio to come down to remain authentic to their Italian culinary reaction from the rest of the world. We sat came out in January illustrates the crazy, passionate and always- so they end up having to call the hospital. 1984. The second movie, traditions at their New Jersey restaurant. In waiting patiently for our dinner. My mother released eight months loving Italian dinner table experience, or at When the ambulance arrives, a midget the opening scene two philistines give their is English (she’s also beautiful) so our table later, was Woody Allen’s least the ones I’ve had growing up with a female nun climbs the ladder and has zio waiter, brother Secondo, a hard time about manners were impeccable: “Elbows off the Manhattan. born and bred Italian father. Titta’s family down immediately. Classic Fellini! I’ve been the menu. Philistine number one wants table.” “Sit up straight.” “That’s a fork—not goes to the country to have a picnic. His tempted to yell, “Voglio una donna!” at din- ② Poor Sofia Coppola. The spaghetti with her . Secondo tells her a knife.” You get the picture. So the meals director’s daughter, now an mentally challenged zio (uncle) climbs to ner tables in many continents but have that they are both starches and it is not cus- come out and this poor Italian waiter puts Academy Award-winning the top of a tree and shouts, “Voglio una managed to keep my mouth shut, so far. tomary for Italians to eat this way. Philistine a plate with a steak and spaghetti on the director, was a 19-year-old donna!” (“I want a woman!”) No one in number two squawks for compromise and side in front of my father. I’ll never forget untrained actor, and pretty they get a side order of spaghetti. Primo, the the look on my father’s face and the apolo- reluctant to play Mary Un Americano a Roma, 1954, directed by Stefano Vanzina chef, is irate and wants to throttle this dis- getic tone of the Italian waiter as my old Corleone in The Godfather In this comedy, Nando—played by the icon- This reminds me of the times when I’d eat III. But after Winona Ryder graziata! No substitutes, no modifications! man morphed into Harry Callahan and backed out (citing exhaus- ic Roman actor Alberto Sordi—lives his life at an American friend’s home and have Enough said. I remember a family vacation said, “Go ahead and make my day”. It was tion after filming three as if he’s the protagonist in an American to push the food around the plate so as to one hot summer with ringing similarity. the fact that an Italian had served another movies back-to-back), movie. (This would have struck a chord make it look as though I’d eaten something. We were traveling through Germany at the Italian a steak and spaghetti on the same dad Francis insisted that with young Italians who were obsessed It wasn’t as exaggerated as Sordi’s Ameri- time and decided to stop off at an Italian plate—a real Italian culinary faux pas. Papa Sofia take the part, even with American ideals and opulence after can meal but I once saw that looked restaurant in a small picturesque Rheine Venturi is a kind and considerate soul and though the studio had sent the War.) In one scene he decides to eat like like someone had been sick! And milk, well over Madeline Stowe to fill valley town. My father always struck the perhaps would have let a German get away Winona’s shoes. an American and forgoes the maccheroni e as Arnold Schwarzenegger says in Pump- fear of God into my brother’s and my hearts with such an insult, but I doubt it! by Mark Venturi vino for a piece of bread with marmalade, ing Iron, “milk is for babies”. with one steely-eyed glance and we were yogurt and mustard, and a bottle of milk.

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH 19 20 EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

schedule. At one point, he sighs and says, tise. Cosi’s trips to L.A. and Italy allowed him Terroni Queen mock-dramatically, “I started out as a dish- to contribute to this evolution first-hand. Street’s Ring washer. How did I get here?” Says Vince: “In L.A. he helped a great deal § with developing and training — all from Master walks In 1993, Cosi was 17. He’d had enough scratch — including making the dough. To the high wire of high school, so our eldest brother, Paolo, this day, three years later, some of his guys between nice guy got him a job at Terroni, then a tiny deli that are still there and making pizza, and are an and taskmaster. ② “My first time at Terro- his friends Cosimo Mammoliti and Paolo integral part of the kitchen.” On the latter Cosimo Pagliacolo ni was on my 15th birthday. Scoppio had just opened. My brothers often trip, Cosi and Vince visited the San Mar- How does he My brother Joe, who now worked shifts together and I was fascinated zano fields where Terroni’s tomatoes are manage the bal- also works at Queen West, by their stories; like when a shelf Cosi was grown, and learned a whole new way of mak- took me to the restaurant, ancing act? Sit where a brash waitress stocking buckled, and one by one the dishes ing lighter and more gastro-friendly dough. down and let his embraced him, then led me came crashing down to the counter as Paolo Cosi credits Vince and Cosimo Mammoliti’s through the standing-room Scoppio glared at him wordlessly. quest for quality as the reason he’s such a sister explain. only crowd to see Cosi. Her Cosi soon graduated to making . loyal member of the Terroni family. “They name was Shereen Arazm In Queen West’s humbler days, the bar seat- have an outstanding philosophy about Ital- and many moons later Cosi ing extended out from the pizza oven and ian food culture. They put quality and great would help train her staff at Terroni L.A.” EP the pizzaioli could banter with the clientele. ingredients first, no matter the cost to them. Whenever I came by my brother would in- It’s great to work for people who are that was almost late today — al- claiming to have been on time for work. Co- ① Many years ago, when troduce me to anyone who happened to be hard-working themselves — it’s not easy Cosi most. Blame it on daylight si’s retort: “I saw you. Don’t f--king lie to me.” Terroni owner Cosimo around. (I was always his “beautiful” or “ge- to introduce a new way of prepping pizza saving time. When I arrive at the restaurant ~ Mammoliti was still spin- nius” sister; the people I was meeting, wheth- dough, but they’re always trying to make the at 8:30 a.m., he’s been there since 8:15, which When he gets back to the main floor, ning pizzas at Terroni on er in their 60s or barely toddlers, were always food here better.” He believes that diners ap- Queen, he anointed a very is 15 minutes later than he likes to start. “I the restaurant is humming with activity. It’s young Cosimo Pagliacolo “my friend, so-and-so.” Does anyone have a preciate these differences. used to get here an hour before anyone else. still pre-lunch — the only diners are Anais “Cosi Jr.”, presumably brother like this?) Generous to a fault and Of course, they also notice the service. Then the kitchen staff caught on and they Granofsky, the actress who played Lucy Fer- because yelling, “No—the possessing an almost preternatural sweet- Cosi aims to make the experience at Ter- started showing up an hour early too.” Vladi- nandez on Degrassi Junior High, and her other Cosi!” got to be a ness, the Cosi I know — the guy who shows roni — that mix of hospitality and the right mir Fernandez, one of the early risers, is al- daughter — and the second round of staff little annoying after the up at our mother’s house at 7 a.m. on Christ- ambience — as impeccable as the food. ready prepping ingredients. “He’s a f--king has settled in. Bartenders Nate Jesionka and umpteenth time. To this mas morning to get into his Santa suit be- + day the two Cosimos are workhorse.” Cosi makes me a Trevor Edward are joking around. “See what still referred to as Cosi Sr. fore our niece wakes up — is altogether dif- At about three o’clock the restaurant is at and sits beside me, clipboard in hand, won- I have to deal with?” says Cosi. “They think and Cosi Jr. inside—and ferent from the hard-ass manager. If you’re maximum capacity. Cosi’s here one second dering how he’ll deal with late-stragglers. If it’s a party.” outside—the restaurant. a longstanding patron of Terroni, you also and gone the next; the wait staff are squeez- you’re even a minute late, he's been known “But that’s kind of what you want, isn’t In fact, it was such a utili- know that lovable side of him — perhaps ing past each other, every table is full and to draft a notice and have you sign it. “Late it?” I ask. tarian solution that other even more if you’re a lady. the place is deafening. A bit of a multitasker is late.” I implore him to take mercy on his “Yes it is,” he concedes, with a smile. “As name-sharing employees Jessica Allen, Cosi's former co-manager, (some might say micromanager) he navi- adopted the practice too staff. He’s got a new haircut — “military- long as they do what they’re supposed to.” (including Editor-in- has known him for 13 years. She recalls: “He gates the restaurant from every which angle, style” — and is wearing a black t-shirt sten- The tone among Terroni’s male staff Chief, Jessie Jr.) was this handsome devil with big doe eyes constantly scanning the floor for tables that cilled with the word “please” in all caps. tends toward deadpan irony, which they’ve and bee-stung lips, who had a real softness to need bussing or reassuring people in line Frankly, he’s starting to scare the shit out of elevated to an art form. Mark Venturi, one of ③ Author Elizabeth him, and the best laugh. What really struck that they’ll soon be seated. He’s as apt to me. Terroni’s longtime waiters, counts sardonic worked behind the counter me was the way he made women feel. It lend a hand when staff are overburdened as § humour as one of Cosi’s signature manage- in the deli at the old Ter- didn’t matter their size, their age, their looks, he is to crack the whip when they’re not. “He As staff stroll in, murmuring about day- rial traits. “He’ll say something and you’ll be roni on Victoria during her every woman seemed to walk away from him treats Terroni Queen like I imagine he would last year in the journal- light saving time, he greets them cordially, like, ‘Are you serious?’ expecting him to be ism undergrad program with a twinkle in her eye and a little lift in her his own child; he loves the place with all his but with a glint in his eye, then sets off to kidding and then he’ll turn around and say, at Ryerson. Now she can step. He has a way of making every woman heart but he’s also known for his disciplinary business. As the head manager, on any giv- ‘Yeah, I am serious.’ He can go either way.” often be found on the other feel beautiful.” measures,” says Jessica. “He expects that the en Sunday, Cosi is running around Terroni Vince Mammoliti — in the restaurant for a side of the counter, enjoy- For Elena di Maria, who watched Cosi staff should care about the place, too — and Queen West until past 1 a.m. First he up- quick meeting with Cosi and Marco Bruno, ing a Terroni Spritz after grow up, “He will always be that kid I used that means stopping to dust a grocery shelf, dates the wine list, then takes stock of sup- who heads up the kitchen staff — jokes that finishing work at Azure to work with on Monday nights at Queen or pick up a napkin. You don’t walk by that Magazine. plies. A fridge outside the upstairs offices Cosi’s “bitter sarcasm” actually makes him a Street, when it would be just me, him and shit on Cosi’s watch.” is filled with porterhouse steaks, wild boar great manager. Before he can elaborate, Cosi Claudia [Iacobazzi]. He's such a loyal guy, It’s not just on his watch that Cosi has and lamb ragu, prosciutto and parmigiano. asks Mark, not too subtly, “You feel like you ever since he was a dishwasher, and he's to fret about the service. I remember being If there’s a problem with any of these goods, wanna be a part of this?” It’s his way of get- always embraced us like a family. And you out to dinner with him when a Terroni pa- like the too-crumbly parmigiano that Vladi- ting Mark to join in a tasting session for a know, even for me, the boss's wife, he still tron noticed him and launched into a rather mir is now grating, Cosi will send them back new lunch special: spaghetti with calamari makes me feel like a million-dollar woman.” detailed account of why he should be able to and call the distributor. He takes pride in tossed in black olive paste. This, by the way, ‡ put parmesan on whatever he wanted. Cosi his meticulous orders, which extend to the is the only cooked meal Cosi will share in all As Terroni Queen West expanded, Cosi bore it in stride and thanked him for his downstairs cellars with their gorgonzolas, day; his usual Sunday fare: a couple of slices became a manager. He started taking an ac- opinions. For Cosi, a manager’s work is nev- provolones and mozzarellas — if he’s run- of mortadella stuffed in bread. And with the tive role in that location's shift from pizzeria er done — not even at 1 a.m. on a Monday ning short he dials up Alex Warehouse, the start of March break, today is supposed to be to restaurant, with a constantly evolving morning. It’s certainly something I couldn’t adopted name of the guy who runs the Ter- hectic. “It’s going to be a crazy Sunday!” says menu of homemade and exclusive do. For one thing, I’m always late. roni supply house. Pizzaiolo Dan Pelletier Marco, whose dessert staff is clean out of ra- Italian vintages. It required everyone, him arrives downstairs to start mixing the dough, mekins. Cosi’s also worried that he’s behind included, to hone a certain culinary exper- by Elizabeth Pagliacolo THE TERRONI INDEX 21 22

Let’s Get This Party Started

What: Why: Bar Centrale di Terroni Because you need a still-warm Compiled by brioche smothered in home- Jessica Allen & Tara Downs Where: made jam to dunk in your café 1095 Yonge Street in order to start your day; because you’re starving at Members of the Slow Food Movement: 100,000 Price of an Hermès Niloticus Birkin bag in matte When: lunch and desperate for a quick § chocolate crocodile: $25,000 Monday to Thursday, spuntino; because 5:30pm calls Years since the Movement was founded: 15 ‡ 8:00 to 23:00 for an aperitivo and maybe + Amount The Bicycle Thief grossed in its Friday, 8:00–24:00 some crostini and crudo; and Years since McDonald’s was founded: 71 opening weekend in 1948: $25,010 Saturday & Sunday, 9:00–24:00 because that after-work pause ‡ § might turn into dinner since Number of hamburgers McDonald’s claims Height of Silvio Berlusconi: 5 feet, 5 inches Who: (Made it look so beautiful, that is) there’s pasta, meat and fish, not to sell in a second: over 75 ~ Giannone Petricone Associates, to mention Italian wines you’ve × Height of the colossal bronze statue of Nero that Small, Commute never heard of that simply need Number of seconds between heart stood in the Emperor’s palatial porch: 120 feet to be sampled right now. disease-related deaths in the US: 34 × ~ Age of Nero when he became Roman Emperor: 17 Euros the Italian government ~ is investing to promote the Age of “Ruby”the Moroccan night club dancer Mediterranean diet: 4,000,000 who Berlusconi is alleged to have paid for sex: 17 ‡ + Number of Italian farmers Number of pizzas created in honour of the dependent on Parmalat: 5,000 Premier’s sex scandals: 1 (the Bunga Bunga) + ‡ Number of euros Parmalat was in debt when Number of pizzas named after old flames on the it declared bankruptcy in 2003: 14 billion Terroni menu: 1 (the Smendozzata) ~ ~ Total debt of USA in dollars: 14 trillion Number of McVitie’s Rich Tea biscuits required to × make Prince William’s wedding groom cake: 1,700 Percentage of the Greek population that § is overweight: 75 Number of guests the cake fed at Prince § William and Catherine Middleton’s Rankings of Italy, Greece and Canada wedding reception on April 29: 650 in obesity rates: 25, 5, 11 × ‡ Selection of wines available by the Average amount of pasta in kilograms each bottle at Bar Centrale: 113 person in Italy eats annually: 25.9 § + Number of bars in Italy vs. number of Average kilograms of homemade pasta Terroni Starbucks worldwide: 136,000 vs. 17,009 produces in a month: 1024.4 ~ × Starbucks locations in Italy: 0 Number of Italians that could get their yearly × pasta fix at Terroni alone:1,195 Number of paintings by Caravaggio expected to ~ hang in this summer’s exhibit at the National Number of scenes in The Godfather that Gallery of Canada: 11 feature people eating or drinking: 61 ‡ + Of these, how many are believed by some to Body count (including the horse) be executed by other painters: 2 in The Godfather: 18 + § Year by which humans will be having sex with Weight in kilograms of the world’s largest robots, according to the head of the ice cream sculpture: 925 European Robotic Research Network: 2011 ‡ Subject of sculpture: an 18th century ship

photo by Stephanie Palmer PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE 23 24 PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE

WHERE WE’VE BEEN ~ April 7 Bar Centrale opened its doors, ① and much to our delight the place filled up ④ pretty quickly! The wine bar, which deftly ① November 29 Tara Downs exhibited delivers up small plates of everything from at “Bitch Slap”, an all-female show featur- and pasta to crostini and cured ing Toronto and New York artists held at meats (not to mention serving a sinfully Thrush Holmes Gallery on Queen St. good Italian-style breakfast), continues to hop during breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. ② Jan 18 Terroni staff got seduced by dark, mysterious elixirs, otherwise known as cof- fee, at a tasting with Dark Horse’s Momiji ⑤ April 7-11 Ladies represent! Usually the Kishi and Christopher Sealy. Hearts must annual Terroni trip to Vinitaly — the five have been racing. day international wine expo held every year in Verona and attended by oenofiles from ⑤ around the world — is boys only. But this » Feb 26 We bumped elbows — and tasted year, our very own Anna Mammoliti, Cas- a few wines — with Piemontese wine pro- sandra Mosher, Gianna Sami and Ruth Tor- ducer Marco Porello. res joined Cosimo Mammoliti and Max Ste- fanelli in the laborious (yeah, right) search ④ to find choice wines for the restaurants.

× April 11 Canada premiered on the Food Network and the judge busting the chefs’ chops better than anyone else is our very own Shereen Arazm, co-owner of Terroni L.A.

⑥ Where we’re going ③ × March 15 Master Sommelier John Szabo perfected the art of making the classic ne- ‡ May – June We’re hosting an art exhibit groni for Terroni bar staff. at our very own galleria dell’arte at Terroni Adelaide to showcase the numerous talents of our staff. ③ March 28 A tour-de-force tasting with Friulian winemaker Valter Scarbolo made our mouths water for crisp, dry whites. ⑥ June Nicole Di Nardo from the Osteria will show her painting, Guanciale Dreams, at Quaff Café (668 Queen St. W) in a ④ April 2 Mark Venturi and Johanna Ed- month-long exhibit featuring works based wards from Terroni Queen St. swam their on supermarkets from around the world. (If hearts out for charity at the YMCA Strong the painting looks familiar, slow down next Kids Megathon. In two hours Venturi com- time you enter the Osteria or La Bettola and pleted 352 laps in the West End YMCA’s take a peek into the glass-cased fridges.) pool and Edwards, who placed in the top ten of fundraisers, clocked in an impressive 300 laps. ~ June 2 There will be festivities around the city (and around the world) in celebra- ② tion of the 150 year anniversary of the Re- public of Italy. Follow us on Twitter and Facebook to find out how Terroni is mark- ing the occasion.

+ Fall A bona fide Terroni will open right above Bar Centrale at 1095 Yonge Street. Stay tuned! THE MAILBAG 25

Hot Hostess My parents only let me eat with spoons until I was 18 so I never slice any of my food. But once when I was modeling in Japan I asked for a fork and knife to cut my sashimi and they took my plate away. We serve pizza here? I thought the crust was like a plate: I only ever eat the toppings, which I thought was like a melted cheese salad or something.

Bottle of Barolo When I arrive at a table I am presented whole, by Natalie Urquhart in all of my glory. I am admired, then opened with precision and Illustrations by Cosimo Pagliacolo tasted in several stages to appreciate my sheer physical beauty, my complex and layered aromas and my smooth velvet texture. Dear Terroni, I do not want to arrive at a table already poured! You would be I had a wonderful meal with you the other missing out on the experience that is drinking me. If there is any evening, except for one little glitch. I did food good enough to be paired with me I expect that it be given not want to trouble our lovely server, but it the same courtesy. seems that someone in the kitchen forgot to cut our pizzas. We are not people who Italian Mama What’s a wrong with the pizza? You want to slice like to make a fuss so we used our knives up my heart? Pizza in Italy is this. Whole. And you go out to get and cut them up on our own. It was actu- the pizza with your family and friends — you married? You should ally very easy, but I just thought I would be married — and you cut just the way you like to and you talk and drop a note to let you know. maybe you wash it all down with a nice cold beer or cola. And look, here we give you the fork and the knife. Easy. Here you are like All my best, friends and this is how friends eat the pizza. Now go get married Maxine, Pickering, ON and have babies.

Hot Hostess So what you are telling me is that those are NOT little onion rings. Where’s your condo? Did we totally hook up last night at The Beacs?

Bottle of Barolo I have a distant cousin who is often served at places called “pubs." I have heard that dipping sauce is very good at these establishments and I imagine that they taste delicious with calamari. However, in Italy calamari is traditionally served with lemon and a touch of salt. Simple and delicious. Oh, and if Dear Terroni, you happen to find yourself at an establishment ending in the You know what’s awesome with fried cala- word “Firkin” please give my cousin my regards. mari? Dipping Sauce. Boom. Why can’t I get any? Italian Mama What? You want the sauce? But this calamari is so fresh! Why would you cover it up with a sauce? You eat the cala- Drake, from my sweet new Condo at King mari the way I make it and then I make you the pasta with my and Spadina sauce. It is very good and you will like it.

Hot Hostess I F%@&ing love Milestones! I think my parents Dear Terroni, made me in one of those restaurants! Is Aperol like absinthe? Cuz Tuesday night is Ladies Night Out. We I tried that once and woke up in Missouri. usually end up at Milestones but we mixed it up a bit and went with Terroni. Bottle of Barolo Ah yes, Aperol. I’ve had my eye on Aperol for We were totally bummed that you didn’t a long time, my friend, until Terroni finally brought it into Ontar- have lychee martinis or half-price straw- io — months before the LCBO decided to fill their shelves with it. berry margaritas. But then our server in- Aperol, with its warm sunset hue, its infusion of herbs, spices and troduced us to Aperol and we are hooked! citrus — and much less bitter than its less feminine cousin, Cam- One suggestion though: you should totally pari, could very well be the perfect aperitivo. get a big screen TV so people don’t miss The Bachelor. Italian Mama Everywhere in Italy you drink the aperitivo. So here with us, you are in Italy, so drink our favourite aperitivo — the Cheers, spritz. Then have the dinner and dessert. But always start with the Lynne, Brampton, ON spritz.