Terroni Magazine
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ISSUE Nº2 SPRING | SUMMER 2011 Stephen AlexAnder on the cover (you're welcome ladies). We grilled the CumbrAe owner with T19 92 questions while he fed us meat TERRONI MAGAZINE Featured Region SICILY What do you get when two Italian chefs cook up some trouble in a tiny kitchen? Four deliciouS recipeS, that’S what FInALLY! Learn the difference between Cosimo Jr. and Cosimo Sr. Five favourite food scenes in Italian film 2 ContrIbutorS Publisher Rick and Sandra Kang Elena di Maria When Sandra isn't busy being the art director of VMagazine and Vman in New York, she's either buying wholesome ingredients for inspired Editor-in-Chief Jessica Allen culinary concoctions or she’s drawing. When Rick isn't busy paying the bills, he's making comics and reppin' “Scarboro.” See more of his stuff at Design todaysmathletics.com. Small Assistant Editors Tara Downs Elizabeth Pagliacolo Natalie Urquhart Elizabeth has been a pretty solid regular at Terroni Queen West since she was 15 — including the year she worked at the Victoria Street loca- Copy Editor tion that's since morphed into Osteria Ciceri e Tria while finishing her Carolyn Pioro Ryerson journalism degree. When she's not immersed in architecture and design as an editor at Azure magazine, she's dreaming of burrata Columnists and plotting when she will next gorge on a piece of ciabatta sufficiently Giovanna Alonzi Max Stefanelli smothered in it. Contributors Rick Kang Bryan Porterfield Sandra Kang A recent trip to northern Italy is all it took to tip photographer Bryan’s Elizabeth Pagliacolo passion for Italian food over the edge. Since his return, he cannot re- Stephanie Palmer Mark Venturi member ever having had such strong food cravings and when asked by Bryan Porterfield his friend chef Giovanna Alonzi to shoot the food for our second issue John Szabo (featuring recipes and wines from Sicily), he jumped at the opportunity. After working with the colourful team at T magazine, he is completely Admin. Managers intrigued by the Sicilian region and longs to visit the alluring island and Patti Shaw sip on granita. Karina Watsone The Berkshire Many thanks to Stephen Alexander John Szabo “Collection” Bella Alexander John added the “MS” credentials to his name in 2004, becoming one availaBle Simon Gadke of only 180 overly dedicated master sommeliers currently sipping wine Albion Macleod worldwide. John’s chalk-full calendar includes restaurant and private cli- exClusively Anna Mammoliti Cosimo Mammoliti ent consulting, teaching, speaking and traveling the wine regions of the aT Terroni Vince Mammoliti world. He writes regularly for WineAlign.com, Wine Access, CityBites, Cosimo Pagliacolo WineFox.ca and Niagara & County Grapevine magazines. Oh, and he’s Stephanie Palmer responsible for the delicious wine you drink at Terroni, too. Sarah Watson T Magazine Mark Venturi Headquarters Mark’s enthusiasm for movies is contagious. So we asked the Terroni 720 Queen St. W. Queen West server to write about his five favourite food scenes from Ital- Toronto, M6J 1E8 ian films for our new “Aficionado” column. Mark has worked as an actor, For inquiries and a freelance photographer, a grip in the film business and a carpenter. He comments please email: has also art-directed for Nuit Blanche (2009), produced, written and di- [email protected] rected several shorts films and is at work on his next film project. Follow us on Twitter (@terronito) and Facebook (Terroni and Terroni: Los Angeles), and don’t forget to click “like”. Printed in Canada Paper : Rolland Enviro 100 Paper age S - - to Jessica Allen Jessica to Photos by Staphanie Palmer Staphanie by Photos As told by Selvendran Thiruchelvam Selvendran by told As (Selvano), Head Chef, Terroni Adelaide Terroni Chef, Head (Selvano), October 8, 1930 – June 13, 2010 October 8, 1930 – June e Make Sau In ricordo di Vincenzo Mammoliti di Vincenzo In ricordo Me Me and Vince, we firstworked together at Queen Street The sausage. making Terroni firstday we made only a smallbatch. We put in the salt and then taste; the and pepper then taste; the paprika, chili flakes and red wine, and then taste — one by one be cause we didn’t know the amounts at first. We did that every Tuesday until Adelaide making started we Then 2007. in up opened the sausage week there. Every we prepared 200 kilos of sausage over two firstdaywe startearly at7:00am and break days. The down the meat, grind it and mix in every thing with our hands. The second day we package it up for all the locations. At first we only talked about the sausage but after a times we few family about talked and life. make to us called Rita sick, got Vince When sure he didn’t work too hard and we tried but he didn’t listen. He liked to work. He’d day every almost Adelaide at lunch his have of the week. It was very nice. And we miss him. But now Rita comes to and things do to how help. exactly her told Vince I think the way we make sausage today is 100 per cent recipe. Vince’s The firstday she came She Vince. about thinking cried, she help, to misses him. It was sad for me, too. But now it’s talk We okay. and about everything, we before. like laugh — just w hen w Hey - I’m Mel, Thing is, we’re See, them dizzy Mel AnzanA. originally southeast Europeans didn’t even eat us my family’s been asian! It was the turks at fiRst. They just used us inna l0tta Italian what introduced us to “noxious apples” (mela insana) kitchens 0ver Europe inna 1600s. as decorations! the years… DID YOU KNOW? A comic by rick & sandra Kang But s00n we was in all kinds 0’ s0uthern They s0 pretty, I Mamma mia! Italian dishes. Take pasta alla n0rma: mezze w0nder what they d0n’t eat them! maniche pasta, t0mat0 sauce, aged ric0tta, 3 taste like? giuseppe ate 0ne an’ n0w basil, garlic and deep-fried pieces 0f eggplant… he’s a f00l! Whudduya mean? Giuseppe was b0rn …first created by the wife 0f Italian p0et Nin0 that way! Mart0gli0 f0r a lunche0n she was h0sting. When her husband tasted The name stuck, and n0w it, inspirati0n struck. y0u can find pasta alla n0rma - and all kinds 0f 0ther N0rma, 0f c0urse, Italian eggplant dishes - being the name 0f Sign0ra, this acr0ss the p0nd, t00. 0pera c0mp0ser dish is like a true Vincenz0 Bellini’s by Rick & Sandra Kang & Sandra Rick by N0rma! greatest her0ine - and 0ne 0f his m0st bel0ved 0peras. HE VI C PE SA SOMEONE’S In THE KItCHEN WITH 5 6 STEPHEN ALEXANDER ‹‹ Jess ›› When you moved here from Austra- around Cosimo and Elena lia 1993 and opened up Cumbrae could you have ever imagined the sort of celebrity sta- MammolitI’S dInner tabLe, tus that butchers currently enjoy in this city? Jessica Allen ChewS the Fat ›› Stephen ‹‹ No, not at all — not even close. My dad has a theory on this, actually. Every- wIth the CuMbrae owner, thing has come full circle and people are who SupplieS terronI wIth appreciating those that do something with their hands — the people that make things. theIr Carne, about Love, ‹ Bella › I have a theory — I believe it’s also life and how he bought because he doesn’t fit the mould of a butch- er. the FarM. and his Charming ›› S ‹‹ No! wife, bella, ChimeS In too. ‹ B › Yes! Every article you read about him, the first thing they say is about the way he looks. Every time. “He’s built like a whatever and he looks like something out of…” ›› S ‹‹ No, no, no. That doesn’t explain the worldwide fascination with artisanal butchery. › Cosi ‹ (In the kitchen) Okay I need some help over here. ›› S ‹‹ Okay buddy, I’m coming to work. ‹‹ J ›› One quick question because once we sit down with this bunch it’ll be hard to Antipasto: tuna two ways — ventr- ① “I grew up on grass-fed menu all the time. We used to sell lambs I’ve still got the old plaque on the wall. talk: when you got here were farmers ea- esca (cured tuna belly) and seared in Australia — all our lambs, brains as a standard everyday item, like ‹‹ J ›› Where was it? ger to participate with you and your ideol- tuna loin — along with a pistachio everything. We are very pork chops, in my dad’s store. ‹ B › On Church Street. ogy, which is essentially raise an animal hu- pesto and caponata. A few bottles spoiled there: there’s so ‹‹ J ›› In Australia? ‹‹ J ›› It’s not the shop you’re in now? much inexpensive pastoral manely, feed them well, and the end product of Outis Etna Rosso 2009 from Vini land and a climate that dic- ›› S ‹‹ Yeah — the shops I grew up in. ›› S ‹‹ Yeah! will be something of superior quality? Biondi in Sicily are opened in order tates no bounds. We have ‹‹ J ›› Where in Australia? ‹‹ J ›› What? How did I not know this? ›› S ‹‹ Yes and no. They were skeptical. to help keep us on track with our Si- sheep stations in Australia ›› S ‹‹ Melbourne: born and raised there. I ›› S ‹‹ All my shops have soul. Like my one Some of them looked at you with two heads. cilian themed dinner. that are the size of a thou- lived in Sidney for a while too and butch- in Dundas, Ont. — it was a butcher shop But I think rural communities have had a sand farms here; literally, ered up there as well.