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Up Close & Personal Cheers the Great Divide

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Up Close & Personal Cheers the Great Divide UP CLOSE & PERSONAL Chefs and producers share their recipes for success THE GREAT DIVIDE Chicken is being reborn as experts debate the merits of organic versus CHEERS hormone The 2015 free BAR Report sums up trends in beer, wine and spirits Danny Smiles, chef, Le Bremner, Montreal CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470 CANADIAN PUBLICATION foodserviceandhospitality.com $4 | JULY/AUGUST 2015 The School of Hospitality, Recreation & Tourism is dedicated to ensuring that our students graduate with the skills, attitudes and competencies required by industry. Integrated work experience ensures our graduates are career-ready. Contact us to find out more about hiring our interns or graduates. humber.ca/hospitality/industry VOLUME 48, NUMBER 5 JULY/AUGUST 2015CONTENTS 36 29 20 Features 33 PRODUCER PROFILES Suppliers are offering new twists on ingredients grown in Canada 12 COUNTING CHICKENS Despite By Jackie Sloat-Spencer waning chicken sales in restaurants, and debate about the merits of 36 THE 2015 BAR REPORT Canadians organic alternatives, the humble are continuing their quest for craft bird remains a culinary standby beers, warming up to premium By Cinda Chavich spirits and swooning to the wine varietal standouts By Alan McGinty 41 THE TRICKLE-DOWN EFFECT 20 INGREDIENT PROFILES Trends from the 30th annual A round-up of the on-trend Nightclub & Bar show in Las Vegas ingredients spotted in chefs’ translate to actionable ideas for kitchens By Rosanna Caira, Canadian bartenders Departments Cinda Chavich, Andrew Coppolino By Jeffrey W. Stewart and Mary Luz Mejia 48 SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD: 2 FROM THE EDITOR 29 CHEF PROFILES IS IT REALLY POSSIBLE? Experts 5 FYI Young toques are driving from this year’s Eat Vancouver 10 FROM THE DESK change in restaurants across festival weren’t so sure OF ROBERT CARTER 43 EQUIPMENT the country By Brianne Binelli By Cinda Chavich COVER: DREW HADLEY, [DANNY SMILES] COVER: DREW HADLEY, and Jackie Sloat-Spencer FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 1 FROM THE EDITOR For daily news and announcements: @foodservicemag on Twitter and Foodservice and Hospitality on Facebook. MAKING A DIFFERENCE an food make a difference in said during one of his presentations, one’s life? Doctors will tell you through food, “chefs have an incredible Ccertain foods are better than ability to connect with people,” which others in providing us with energy, while can help fuel the change we need. He making us healthier. Of course, food’s added: “If we don’t protect the seven most basic function is to give us the fuel oceans in the world, we’re in trouble.” we need for the rigorous demands of If the industry experts speaking at our daily lives. But interestingly, in these Terroir taught us anything it’s that we food-obsessed days, where what we eat are standing at the crossroads of change. is trendy, it can also help save the planet. Clearly, there is a revolution of sorts In the past decade, we’ve come to going on in the food community — we understand the huge footprint it takes to are effecting change and shaking up the raise livestock as opposed to vegetables. status quo. In the process, we are learn- We’ve learned about the negative impact ing food innately has the power to fuel of genetically modified foods. Equally as us, to soothe us, to heal us, to unite us important, we’ve come to understand and to transform us. What we choose to the implications overfishing has on our eat will not only dictate how we feel, but oceans and planet, now realizing that how we think and how we impact the satisfying a taste for certain fish and sea- future. Can food make a difference in food can lead to the destruction of our one’s life? It absolutely can. oceans. And, on the beverage side, many As we finally celebrate the arrival of Today, food is not only of us are more aware of the importance summer, we’re happy to present this helping to define who we of buying fair-trade coffee, because we month’s Food Issue, which takes a fun “ are, it’s helping to make understand the food-and-drink experi- and informative look at some of the ence is about more than just good taste; products, producers and chefs helping a powerful statement it’s about ultimately making a difference change our perception of food. We hope about what we believe in the lives of the producers who toil on you enjoy it. our behalf. ” Given the context of this greater awareness and knowledge about food, is it any wonder it’s taken on a greater importance than ever and has become more than just sustenance? Today, food is not only helping to define who we are, it’s helping to make a power- ful statement about what we believe. Certainly whoever coined the phrase “You are what you eat,” had no idea how meaningful the statement would become. So, it’s not surprising that last month’s Terroir conference, held in Toronto, and themed “Pioneering Change,” attracted more than 300 chefs, producers and media to share their food stories and learn from each other (see Rosanna Caira story on p. 5). As Ned Bell, executive Editor/Publisher chef at the Vancouver Four Seasons, [email protected] 2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOUNDER MITCH KOSTUCH Feb. 11, 1931– Oct. 23, 2014 EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA [email protected] MANAGING EDITOR BRIANNE BINELLI [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITOR HELEN CATELLIER [email protected] SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER [email protected] ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE [email protected] MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE [email protected] DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER MEGAN O’BRIEN [email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNER COURTNEY JENKINS [email protected] SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGER/CANADA STEVE HARTSIAS [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGER/CANADA MARIA FAMA VIECILI [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGER CHERYLL SAN JUAN [email protected] SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR DANNA SMITH CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS [email protected], (905) 509-3511 DIRECTOR JIM KOSTUCH [email protected] ACCOUNTING MANAGER DANIELA PRICOIU [email protected] ADVISORY BOARD CARA OPERATIONS KEN OTTO CORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNY CRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHI FAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICK FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES KATIE JESSOP, REGISTERED DIETITIAN LECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSON NEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTON SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS MANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEGUIN THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com Volume 48, Number 5 Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com. Subscription Rates: 1-year subscription, $55 (HST included); U.S. $80; International, $100. Canada Post – “Canadian Publication Mail Product Sales Agreement #40063470.” Postmaster send form 33-086-173 (11-82). Return mail to: Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Member of CCAB, a Division of BPA International, International Foodservice Editorial Council, Restaurants Canada, The American Business Media and Magazines Canada. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada, through the Canadian Periodical Fund (CPF) of the Department of Canadian Heritage. Printed in Canada on recycled stock. When he reduced costs by 13% with a new RTU, he wasn’t just saving money. He was setting a precedent. Once you start seeing the benefits of our incentives for upgrading to high efficiency HVAC systems, you’ll want to look into making other areas of your building like lighting, refrigeration and kitchen ventilation systems more efficient too. When you do, you’ll be joining thousands of companies across Ontario who are already enjoying the energy savings that our programs deliver. Take a look at their stories and our incentives at saveonenergy.ca/business Subject to additional terms and conditions found at saveonenergy.ca. Subject to change without notice. OMOfficial Mark adopted and used by the Independent Electricity System Operator. PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [CROWD SHOT], PAT ANDERSON [ALL OTHER IMAGES ON THIS PAGE] PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [CROWD SHOT], PAT OPA_10232590_14_B2B_Foodservice_hospitality_RTU.indd 1 5/12/2015 4:25:20 PM MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY FYI AGAINST THE GRAIN Toronto’s Terroir Symposium was a sounding board for pioneers of change BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER ive for dinner amidst great white sharks, Duproot and open a res- taurant in the Mexican jungle or invest in a withering fishing community in Newfoundland. These are examples of dar- ing feats that led to success CHEF for entrepreneurs in the food COLLECTIVE community who shared their story at this spring’s 9th annual A panel of chefs at this spring’s Terroir Symposium. Terroir Symposium in Toronto Change can start with an epiphany. Maui-born Kimi shared strategies for tackling la- Werner was working as a chef bour shortages and food waste. in Honolulu, Hawaii when she lost her connection to food. “Fish was just a rectangular piece David Hawksworth’s Young Chef on Styrofoam trays — I had no idea where it came from,” she told the crowd at Arcadian Court Scholarship Foundation in Van- in Toronto, explaining how that thought caused her to abandon the concrete jungle to hunt couver is engaging the young for her own food and spearfish in Maui. “I love to tell the story of what it took to get it on the labour force; it awards a $10,000 plate,” she said.
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