Up Close & Personal Cheers the Great Divide

CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470 and spirits beer, wine trends in sums up BAR Report The 2015 CHEERS

foodserviceandhospitality.com & PERSONAL producers share $4 UP CLOSE | being reborn JULY/AUGUST 2015 their recipes Le Bremner, Montreal for success Danny Smiles,chef, GREAT debate the DIVIDE as experts Chicken is Chefs and hormone merits of organic versus THE free

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Features 33 PRODUCER PROFILES Suppliers are offering new twists on ingredients grown in Canada 12 COUNTING CHICKENS Despite By Jackie Sloat-Spencer waning chicken sales in restaurants, and debate about the merits of 36 THE 2015 BAR REPORT Canadians organic alternatives, the humble are continuing their quest for craft bird remains a culinary standby beers, warming up to premium By Cinda Chavich spirits and swooning to the wine varietal standouts By Alan McGinty

41 THE TRICKLE-DOWN EFFECT 20 INGREDIENT PROFILES Trends from the 30th annual A round-up of the on-trend Nightclub & Bar show in Las Vegas ingredients spotted in chefs’ translate to actionable ideas for kitchens By Rosanna Caira, Canadian bartenders Departments Cinda Chavich, Andrew Coppolino By Jeffrey W. Stewart and Mary Luz Mejia 48 SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD: 2 FROM THE EDITOR 29 CHEF PROFILES IS IT REALLY POSSIBLE? Experts 5 FYI Young toques are driving from this year’s Eat Vancouver 10 FROM THE DESK change in restaurants across festival weren’t so sure OF ROBERT CARTER the country By Brianne Binelli By Cinda Chavich 43 EQUIPMENT

COVER: DREW HADLEY, [DANNY SMILES] COVER: DREW HADLEY, and Jackie Sloat-Spencer

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 1 FROM THE EDITOR

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MAKING A DIFFERENCE

an food make a difference in said during one of his presentations, one’s life? Doctors will tell you through food, “chefs have an incredible Ccertain foods are better than ability to connect with people,” which others in providing us with energy, while can help fuel the change we need. He making us healthier. Of course, food’s added: “If we don’t protect the seven most basic function is to give us the fuel oceans in the world, we’re in trouble.” we need for the rigorous demands of If the industry experts speaking at our daily lives. But interestingly, in these Terroir taught us anything it’s that we food-obsessed days, where what we eat are standing at the crossroads of change. is trendy, it can also help save the planet. Clearly, there is a revolution of sorts In the past decade, we’ve come to going on in the food community — we understand the huge footprint it takes to are effecting change and shaking up the raise livestock as opposed to vegetables. status quo. In the process, we are learn- We’ve learned about the negative impact ing food innately has the power to fuel of genetically modified foods. Equally as us, to soothe us, to heal us, to unite us important, we’ve come to understand and to transform us. What we choose to the implications overfishing has on our eat will not only dictate how we feel, but oceans and planet, now realizing that how we think and how we impact the satisfying a taste for certain fish and sea- future. Can food make a difference in food can lead to the destruction of our one’s life? It absolutely can. oceans. And, on the beverage side, many As we finally celebrate the arrival of Today, food is not only of us are more aware of the importance summer, we’re happy to present this helping to define who we of buying fair-trade coffee, because we month’s Food Issue, which takes a fun “ are, it’s helping to make understand the food-and-drink experi- and informative look at some of the ence is about more than just good taste; products, producers and chefs helping a powerful statement it’s about ultimately making a difference change our perception of food. We hope about what we believe in the lives of the producers who toil on you enjoy it. our behalf. ” Given the context of this greater awareness and knowledge about food, is it any wonder it’s taken on a greater importance than ever and has become more than just sustenance? Today, food is not only helping to define who we are, it’s helping to make a powerful statement about what we believe. Certainly whoever coined the phrase “You are what you eat,” had no idea how meaningful the statement would become. So, it’s not surprising that last month’s Terroir conference, held in Toronto, and themed “Pioneering Change,” attracted more than 300 chefs, producers and media to share their food stories and learn from each other (see Rosanna Caira story on p. 5). As Ned Bell, executive Editor/Publisher chef at the Vancouver Four Seasons, [email protected]

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PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [CROWD SHOT], PAT ANDERSON [ALL OTHER IMAGES ON THIS PAGE] MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY FYI AGAINST THE GRAIN Toronto’s Terroir Symposium was a sounding board for pioneers of change BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

ive for dinner amidst great white sharks, Duproot and open a restaurant in the Mexican jungle or invest in a withering fishing community in Newfoundland. These are examples of daring feats that led to success CHEF for entrepreneurs in the food COLLECTIVE community who shared their story at this spring’s 9th annual A panel of chefs at this spring’s Terroir Symposium. Terroir Symposium in Toronto Change can start with an epiphany. Maui-born Kimi shared strategies for tackling la- Werner was working as a chef bour shortages and food waste. in Honolulu, Hawaii when she lost her connection to food. “Fish was just a rectangular piece David Hawksworth’s Young Chef on Styrofoam trays — I had no idea where it came from,” she told the crowd at Arcadian Court Scholarship Foundation in Van- in Toronto, explaining how that thought caused her to abandon the concrete jungle to hunt couver is engaging the young for her own food and spearfish in Maui. “I love to tell the story of what it took to get it on the labour force; it awards a $10,000 plate,” she said. prize and an international stage. For others, success was found by abandoning the conveniences of life. “In a wild place you can “The Young Chefs Scholarship find a sense of perfection,” said chef Eric Werner, who went off the grid to build Hartwood, a sus- started three years ago. Now it’s tainable open-air restaurant on a jungle road in Tulum in Mexico’s Mayan Riviera. With its only up to 150 applicants this year, power source kilometres away, the team uses solar panels and cooks over an open fire to conserve and there are heats in major energy and recycles waste water to nourish the surrounding mangroves. cities,” Hawksworth (pictured) Some would say driving through the Bible Belt inside a rainbow-covered food truck with the words “Big Gay Ice Cream” painted on the side might be another risk. But that’s what New York- explained. Meanwhile, Montreal based partners Douglas Quint and Bryan Petroff did, embarking on a five-city tour. The result? chef Jean-François Archambault They were accepted with open arms in the communities they visited. The frosty treats attracted grew tired of watching food two-hour line-ups, so the team has expanded to several bricks-and-mortar units in New York City. thrown in the bin, so he launched Meanwhile, eighth-generation Fogo Islander Zita La Tablée des Chefs, an or- Cobb (pictured, far right) discovered the best way to ganization that manages food invest in a struggling fishing community was to build recovery so it can be donated to the Fogo Island Inn and re-invest the operating surplus people in need. Its 47 participat- into the Newfoundland town. The suites are filled with ing establishments have gener- locally sourced, handmade textiles and furniture. “The ated more than 450,000 meals inn was created to be a servant to place and people. I for the needy across Canada. like to think all of us can be a servant to place, because place is not a commodity,” said the innovative thinker.

LOCAL CHAMPS Achievement in foodservice was heralded at this spring’s Terroir Sympo- sium. Award winners were Tobey Nemeth, chef and co-owner of Edulis in Toronto (Outstanding Service Professional); Antonio Park, chef at Restaurant Park in Montreal (Outstanding Chef); and Norman Hardie (pictured), owner of Norman Hardie Vineyard and Winery in Prince Edward County, Ont. (Outstanding Beverage Professional). PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [CROWD SHOT], PAT ANDERSON [ALL OTHER IMAGES ON THIS PAGE] PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [CROWD SHOT], PAT

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 5 TERROIR SYMPOSIUM

INDUSTRY UNITES TO PROMOTE OCEAN HEALTH

hen the cod morato- later consumers and chefs under- Wrium was issued in stand the importance of conser- Newfoundland more than 22 vation thanks in part to increased years ago, it marked the begin- education. Though sustainability ning of a new era for the fishing is now part of our lexicon, a great industry in Canada. Two decades deal of work remains to be done to ensure our oceans continue to thrive. And chefs are increasingly joining the crusade to educate consumers — their guests. That was the basis for discus- “Canada was founded on fish. have the power to influence con- sion this past spring, as organiz- It’s integral to the fabric of this sumers by introducing them to

ers of Toronto’s annual Terroir country,” began Dan Donovan, various species of fish. “What can PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [PANEL] Symposium and Vancouver’s Toronto-based owner of Hooked chefs do to spur good consump- Chefs for Oceans united a panel fish stores and moderator of the tion?” Donovan asked. of 16 experts, comprising chefs, panel, in his opening address. Part of the process involves fishermen and media to take the He also noted that two-thirds having third-parties help con- conversation about sustainability of consumption of fish is taking sumers and chefs make wise food to the next level. place outside the home, so chefs choices. “We have huge value, and

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM TERROIR SYMPOSIUM

and certification of fish choices. of the pillars of sustainability. “We’re looking for the best choic- It’s about knowing whether your es. Responsible aquaculture is the fish is local, harvested in Canada future,” she added. or processed in China.” His com- But, it takes more than that. pany identifies fish with a code, “We’re always going to sell more which tells buyers who caught halibut, salmon. Consumers the fish, how it was caught think they know what they and where it was caught, arm- want, but providing suggestions ing them with the knowledge works,” said John Bil, owner of to make an educated purchas- Toronto’s Honest Weight fish ing decision. “Chefs need to put shop and restaurant, explaining pressure on distributors [and] that operators need to better pro- demand information about mote other options to their cus- traceability,” said Tamm. “Ask tomers. “Get people out of their for documentation.” the work we’re doing is way above ruts, and taste new products. Try “The industry has made many countries,” boasted Ann it — you might be surprised. strides,” summed up Jay Lugar,

PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN [PANEL] Marie Copping, Ocean Wise pro- Operators have to recognize how program director, Canada for gram manager at the Vancouver to make money from it.” the Marine Stewardship Council Aquarium, which along with Progress has been made, but in Halifax. “We have strong reg- other national and global pro- much work remains. As Eric ulatory practices in Canada. In grams such as Sea Choice and Enno Tamm, team leader at fact, we’re one of the safest in the the Marine Stewardship Council, ThisFish in Ottawa, reminded world. We take that responsibil- promotes greater understanding the audience, “Traceability is one ity seriously.” — Rosanna Caira TERROIR SYMPOSIUM

POWER OF THE PEN Roberto Martella, owner of Grano restau- COMING rant in Toronto, kicked off this spring’s Terroir Symposium with a tribute to Pamela Cuthbert, EVENTS a food journalist who died from a stroke in March. Cuthbert was a freelance writer and editor whose work appeared in Zoomer, The Globe and Mail and Saveur. She founded the Toronto chapter of Slow Food and received an Ontario Hostelry Institute Fellow Award in 2009. July 15: We Care Camp Day, Camp Cuthbert wrote about her subjects with eloquence and passion, said Martella. He added: Woodeden, London, Ont. Tel: 905-841- “She raised the efforts of culinary arts in an increasingly industrialized food system. How food 1223; [email protected]; website: arrives on our plate was just as important as taste to Pamela.” — Jackie Sloat-Spencer friendsofwecare.org

July 27-29: Women’s Foodservice Forum Introducing MEIKO GreenEye Technology Executive Summit, JW Marriott Chicago Hotel, Chicago. Tel: 800-351-0232; email: [email protected]; website: summit15.wff.org

Aug. 23-25: Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo, Los Angeles Convention WASH Center, Los Angeles. Tel: 203-484-8054; email: [email protected]; website: westernfoodexpo.com DIRTY Sept. 27-29: FSTEC Foodservice and Technology Conference, Washington Marriott Wardman Park, Washington, D.C. DISHES . Website: fstec.com AND SARAH WEINER] ANDERSON [IAN BROWN, MARK SCHATZKER PHOTOS: PAT

Sept. 30: Icons and Innovators Breakfast NOT Series, featuring Susur Lee, Toronto Region Board of Trade, Toronto. Tel: 416- 447-0888, ext. 235; email: dpricoiu@kos- EMPTY tuchmedia.com; website: kostuchmedia. com

Oct. 10-14: Anuga 2015, Koelnmesse, SPACE . Cologne, Germany. Tel: +49 221 821- 2240; email: [email protected]; website: anuga.com

Oct. 18-19: Connect Food + Drink + Lodging, Vancouver Convention Centre West, Vancouver. Tel: 604-628-5655; email: [email protected]; website: connectshow.com

Oct. 21: Community Food Centres Canada’s Restaurants for Change, participating restaurants in major cities across Canada. Email: [email protected]

Oct. 24: Canadian Hospitality Foundation Ball, Fairmont Royal York Hotel, Toronto. With GreenEye Technology from MEIKO, your M-iQ dishwasher detects gaps on the conveyor belt and responds Tel: 416-363-3401; email: [email protected];

lights to indicate which lanes are “open,” for simple, easy teamwork between people and machines. The result? website: thechf.ca Savings of up to 50% in both fresh water and rinse agent. Only use what you need. No more, No less, No waste.

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8 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM TERROIR SYMPOSIUM

NAKED DINING FLAVOUR FAKE

Ian Brown stripped Artificial flavouring elevated the Dorito from a plain tortilla chip to down to dine at a craveable global snack, said Mark Schatzker, author of The Dorito a nudist resort in Effect, who described the troubling link between flavour and nutrition Gwillimbury, Ont. at the Terroir Symposium in Toronto this past spring. While food, such And, he wanted a as tomatoes and chicken, gets blander, lab-produced flavour enhanc- fresh perspective ers are tricking the brain into believing it’s receiving nutrition from about food, so he over-processed foods, explained the writer. “We’re adding flavour to didn’t stop there. “I everything from soy milk to kids’ yogurt, which tastes like fruit but has was an empty vessel without a point of view. none.” This practice is turning our food into the manufactured Dorito, he said, adding, “We I tried to fill that vessel with stories about need to stop feeding the brain and start feeding the stomach.” — Jackie Sloat-Spencer food,” The Globe and Mail features writer said, reminiscing about the cross-country START FROM SCRATCH road trip that led him to the best Indian food he’s ever eaten in Sault Ste. Marie, “Perhaps a good idea is worth a million in the tech industry — but not Ont. In the end, Brown found a common in food,” said Sarah Weiner, founder of the San Francisco-based Good theme: “We do have a national cuisine,” he Food Awards, who explained that success in the foodservice industry said, listing bread, maple syrup, wine, ber- is built on collaboration. The former director of Communication at ries, trout, mackerel and honey as some of the Slow Food International Office in Italy, launched the Good Food the frequent players on Canadian menus. Awards to attract attention and bring business to artisans who use “But, it wasn’t just the meals I remember, local, organic and seasonal ingredients to create tasty food. The program has since grown to 11 it was the hosts’ desires to feed me.” categories, including beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, confections, pickles, preserves, 6.11.15ConnectAD_F&S HospMag 6/11/15 12:21 PM Page 1

PHOTOS: PAT ANDERSON [IAN BROWN, MARK SCHATZKER AND SARAH WEINER] ANDERSON [IAN BROWN, MARK SCHATZKER PHOTOS: PAT — Jackie Sloat-Spencer spirits, oil and honey, raising awareness about artisanal producers. — Jackie Sloat-Spencer

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FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 9 FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

IT’S NOT TOO LATE Don’t miss the opportunity to sell seasonal cold beverages

ummer is in full swing, and one of global flavours, especially Asian, is growing; the simple pleasures of the season is interest in health and wellness is booming; Senjoying an ice-cold beverage. tea has a high profit margin at a time when Indeed, now is the time for restaurant food costs are skyrocketing; and adoption of operators to provide their customers with tea by Americans is surging forward. In fact, a drink that’s worth their time and money. according to the U.S. Tea Association, the tea So, this summer operators should bank on market has grown from $1.8 billion to $10.4 interest in limited-time offers, which denote billion in just over 20 years. Canadians are a sense of urgency — a need for customers not increasing their consumption of iced to try a product before it’s gone. tea at restaurants, but that could be because According to CREST data, consumers specialty tea variations are not prevalent on are finding iced/frozen/slushy coffee, frozen/ restaurant menus. slushy soft drinks and smoothies increas- While cold summer offerings comprise a ingly appealing. Iced tea is also gaining relatively small share of the Canadian bever- steam. In fact, there’s a perfect storm brew- age market, opportunity exists to capitalize ing for tea. Consider the facts: demand for on consumer interest in these products,

SHARE OF BEVERAGES - TOTAL RESTAURANTS especially during the summer. Hot Coffee The following are a few ideas to entice

Carbonated Soft Drinks more purchases of cold beverages:

Hot Tea n Offer signature beverages. Beverage Alcohol n Customize cold beverages. Provide new Juice and different toppings, spices, syrups and Bottled Water flavours to enhance the experience. Iced/Frozen/Slushy Coffee n Small is the new big, so offer pint-sized Iced Tea portions. For example, a mini portion of a Milk milkshake will keep the calorie count down for health-conscious customers. This will Hot Chocolate also create a sense of value, since the price Frozen/Slushy Soft Drinks will be in line with the portion size. Non-Carb Soft Drinks As consumers continue to expect more Smoothies 2011 variety, Canadian restaurant operators need Shakes/Malts/Floats to focus on introducing new and different 2015 cold-beverage options. It’s a win-win for the Other Beverages PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM consumer and operator. l

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business.

10 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PHOTO BY: JASON FINESTONE JASON BY: PHOTO

2015-06-15 11:02 AM ICONS & INNOVATORS ICONS BREAKFAST BREAKFAST SPEAKER SERIESSPEAKER SUSUR LEE CHEF/RESTAURATEUR CHEF/RESTAURATEUR experience a one-on-one and Come enjoy breakfast between Rosanna Caira, editor/ conversation candid publisher of Kostuch Media Ltd., and chef extraordinaire Susur Lee. Chefs of the Millennium” Praised as one of the “Ten chef Susur in 2000 by Food & Wine magazine, Toronto Lee is still at the top of his game. Between helming — Luckee, Lee & Bent in Toronto restaurants three Heen TungLok — and overseeing his prestigious television Chef Lee makes numerous in Singapore, appearances and travels the globe as guest chef and traditions of China consultant. Balancing the epicurean cuisines, Chef with the classical techniques of French a daring and original culinary aesthetic. Lee improvises

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DESPITE WANING CHICKEN SALES IN RESTAURANTS, AND DEBATE ABOUT THE MERITS OF ORGANIC ALTERNATIVES, THE HUMBLE BIRD REMAINS A CULINARY STANDBY BY CINDA CHAVICH

Chris Jones and Josh Goyert are counting on Canadians’ ongoing love affair with roast chicken to launch their new Ruby café in Victoria. The menu at the small, casual spot, inside PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM the Hotel Zed, is centred on chicken. And that chicken is literally revolving in the kitchen all day, brined, rubbed and roasted to perfection in a rotisserie oven. “My original concept was

12 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE

DESPITE WANING CHICKEN SALES IN RESTAURANTS, AND DEBATE ABOUT THE MERITS OF ORGANIC ALTERNATIVES, THE HUMBLE BIRD REMAINS A CULINARY STANDBY PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM FOOD FILE

a breakfast café, but the owner wanted some- NPD. The bright spot in the sector is quick- thing open in the evening,” says Jones of service restaurants, he says, with chicken the all-day menu of chicken and eggs. “We sandwich servings actually up by 13-million wanted to enhance that retro feel, so the servings in 2015. rotisserie chicken idea was born.” That’s the case at Vancouver-based A&W, And it seems to be working. From the where its antibiotic-free chicken (and simi- outset, diners have been lining up at The lar hormone-free beef program) is win- Ruby for their roast-chicken fix. “We’re ning new customers. Today’s consumers already doing 120 to 140 birds a week,” said want to know where and how their food Jones, 10 days after the restaurant’s opening is produced, explains Susan Senecal, chief in March. “We just have a small electric rotis- marketing officer at A&W, and the company serie — we will have to expand.” is responding to consumer demand. Senecal They’re pumping out half- and quar- says the chain’s in-house research shows 75 ter-chicken dinners ($18 and $12.50) with per cent of Canadians prefer to consume inventive sides such as ratatouille, carrot chicken produced without the use of anti- and raisin salad or Parmesan celery slaw. biotics. “Over one-million more Canadians The juicy rotisserie chicken reappears in have chosen to enjoy the great taste of the the chicken sandwich on a Portuguese bun A&W Chubby Chicken Burger” since the with chimichurri sauce ($12), the warm new poultry program launched in October chicken dip with house-made gravy ($13), 2014, Senecal adds. the Power-hour Kale and Roast Chicken A&W sources antibiotic-free Salad ($14), and atop rotisserie chicken tacos chicken from between on fresh locally made corn tortillas ($10). nine and 15 different Nothing goes to waste — there’s even a rotis- farms across the coun- serie chicken and barley soup ($7). try, and, while the The birds are brined for nine hours with meat costs 15-per- sugar, salt and spices, then cooked in a rotis- cent more than con- serie oven. The partners launched The Ruby ventional chicken, with fresh local chicken, sourced from pro- the company didn’t ducers in the Fraser Valley and hope to add increase the price 100-per-cent free-range, 12-week birds to on the menu. The the menu. It’s a bold move in a market that’s antibiotic-free prod- been flat, even shrinking. uct is used in all its Nature Creates.. The good news is chicken is the most chicken dishes, from popular protein for Canadian consumers, burgers to wraps. Sardo preserves. with 866-million servings doled out annu- Still, the CFC reports that ally in commercial foodservice. The Ottawa- many consumer concerns about chicken based Chicken Farmers of Canada (CFC) are unfounded. No growth hormones or reports Canadians are eating more chicken steroids are used in chicken production in overall — preliminary numbers for 2014 Canada, and all meat birds are “free-run” show an increase of 3.5 per cent to 31.2 kg (usually confined in barns, not cages). Only From Grilled vegetables per capita over 2013. certified-organic chickens must have access But, chicken is losing ground on res- to outdoor pasture for at least six hours to sundried tomatoes… taurant tables, especially in the full-service per day, weather permitting, according to we carry your category where other prime poultry, from regulations from the Vernon, B.C.-based duck to game birds such as quail, is picking Certified Organic Association of B.C. requirements. up the slack. According to the NPD Group, And antibiotic use is heavily regulated, overall consumption of chicken declined in says the CFC in its extensive web-based foodservice in 2015, down by 23-million Q&A section. In May, the producer group servings compared to the previous year. The implemented a policy to eliminate the pre- decline is driven primarily by centre-of-the- ventive use of Category I antibiotics, which plate chicken/poultry entrées, down 36-mil- is of critical importance to human health. lion servings from 2014, says Erick Bauer, While the demand for quality poultry is Sardofoods national public relations manager – Canada, growing — whether organic, local or simply

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Sardo_TV.indd 1 2015-05-14 11:48 AM

FOOD FILE

Jesin’s family has been selling chicken for more than 50 years. Jesin, who took over the business from his father in 2012, recently renovated the poultry-processing facil- ity and retail shop, adding an extensive line of home-meal replacements and ready-to- cook chicken products to the Brining poultry before grilling or roasting St. Andrew line. “What we improves the flavour and juiciness of the meat, and is more effective than an oil- offer is service,” says Jesin, based marinade. The brine — a solution who notes that 80 per cent made with 4 litres of water, 2 cups of salt BIRD WATCH Hotel Zed’s new Ruby café of the business is delivering fresh chicken to and a 3/4 cup of brown sugar — should puts rotisserie chicken centre stage on tacos wholesale customers, including small gro- be made with kosher or sea salt, which (above) and in centre-of-the-plate main meals (opposite page) cers and more than 200 restaurants in the dissolves easier than table salt and has Greater Toronto Area. “When I was a child, no additives (if you use table salt, cut to premium air-chilled birds — the basic three- we had chicken every day, but back then it 1 cup). Bring to near boil to dissolve the pound commercial fryer remains the chicken was just chicken. Now there are so many salt and sugar, then cool to use as is, or of choice. Only six per cent of Canadians labels on chicken, but mostly it’s just mar- combine with aromatics (whole herbs, report buying organic chicken “all of, or most keting.” chili peppers, garlic or spices) while hot of the time,” according to the Abbotsford, St. Andrew Poultry sells conventional, to infuse it with your choice of flavours. Once cooled, strain the brine and pour B.C.-based Chicken Marketing Board. antibiotic-free and organic chicken from over whole chicken or pieces. The poul- At Toronto’s St. Andrew Poultry, Jerry Ontario and Quebec farms. “We try to edu- try should be submerged in brine in the cate our customers, refrigerator for two to eight hours before so they spend their it’s roasted or grilled. Use a large, seal- money wisely,” Jesin able plastic bag, then set inside a bowl says, adding all chick- or deep pot to hold the chicken while en is hormone-free, brining. Dry the bird before cooking for grain-fed and “free the crispiest skin. range is just non- sense.” He explains: “It just means the chicken must have the ers. The Indian and Thai chefs want chopped opportunity to go out breast, and there’s a big market for thigh — there may be some- meat for shawarma. Barbecue restaurants are thing to it in summer, driving demand for fryers, and we sell a lot of but not one chicken scallopini for sandwiches,” he says. will choose to go out- With chef Bernadette Calpito, former exec- side in winter.” utive chef of Kultura, heading up the shop’s The shop, in new “Foodie Bar,” there are various take-out Toronto’s multicultur- chicken options, too, including crispy fried al Kensington Market chicken and fries ($5.99), chicken shawarma area, has various res- ($5.75), barbecue quarter-chicken dinners taurant customers, ($6.99), whole rotisserie birds, chicken pot and every cook has pies and maple sriracha chicken wings, all different require- served fresh. There’s even a “mini spit” of sea- ments. “Chefs ask for soned and prepared shawarma ($25) to take different cuts and dif- home and bake in the oven. ferent sizes,” Jesin says. Chicken might not be as popular at white- “Caterers want fry- tablecloth restaurants, but you’ll still find top ers for the six-ounce chefs using chicken in creative ways. At Secret breast, while others Location in Vancouver, the extremely local

ask for bigger roast- ingredient-driven executive chef Jefferson & ROTISSERIE CHICKEN DINNER] [TACOS CINDA CHAVICH PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA SALT],

16 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE

Alvarez buys a few chickens a month from a to “northern” fried chicken and waffle dish- style grilled chicken is available at 29 Nando’s friend who raises them humanely — and he es, with butters and sauces flavoured with Chicken locations across Canada, marinat- uses every part. On a recent 10-course tasting Canadian maple syrup. ed with Portuguese piri piri peppers (half, menu ($150), Alvarez offered a chip of trans- The Stockyards Smokehouse & Larder is a $10.35; whole, $17.75). Crispy, double-fried lucent, crisped chicken skin — standing in a busy Toronto barbecue resto specializing in Korean-style chicken, tossed in a sweet-and- square bowl of white gravel — as an addictive southern cooking, too — from smoky pulled- spicy glaze, is gaining popularity, too, at take- morsel of chicken goodness. pork sandwiches to ribs. But it’s the juicy out spots such as Calgary’s Olive Chicken At Vancouver’s newly re-opened La fried-chicken dinners, with coleslaw and fries (five pieces, $12), Zabu Chicken in Vancouver Brasserie, its beer-brined rotisserie chicken ($15), brined and marinated in buttermilk (whole, $19.95) and Montreal’s DaWa (nine is served with red cabbage, garlic confit jus for 48 hours, then fried with a light, crunchy pieces, $14.99). and frites ($23). Calgary’s River Café features panko batter, that’s legendary here. Its crispy At independent casual spots across the local Bowden Farm chicken breast with cele- chicken is also offered atop Belgian waffles nation, chefs are roasting whole birds on riac, caramelized apple, pickled celery, por- with sweet chili molasses glaze (two pieces, wood-fired and electric rotisseries, wheth- cini and spruce mostarda ($42). Meanwhile, $13; four pieces, $16) for breakfast and din- er it’s the local rotisserie chicken sandwich at North 48 in Victoria, Sam Chalmers, chef ner, and there’s a pit-smoked chicken from with wild lingonberry and black pepper aioli and co-owner, serves savoury cheddar waffles the wood-fired smoker (whole, $15; half, $19) ($12) or quarter chicken dinner ($21) at topped with one, two or three pieces of crispy on the take-out menu. cosy Boxwood in Calgary or chef Yannick buttermilk fried-chicken breast ($18, $22, Chicken remains a staple for ethnic eater- Bigourdan’s rotisserie chicken restaurant $26) on his popular dinner menu, a nod to ies, from Indian butter chicken and Jamaican planned for the new food market in Toronto’s the southern American soul food. jerk chicken to Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa Union Station. Fried chicken is also chef/co-owner (quarter chicken dinner, $12.90), the spe- Everyone loves chicken — The Ruby is Adrian Forte’s focus at The Dirty Bird, a cialty at Calgary’s Inti Modern Peruvian. On just the latest spot with something to cluck small Toronto take-out devoted exclusively the quick-service side, spicy South African- about. l PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA SALT], CINDA CHAVICH [TACOS & ROTISSERIE CHICKEN DINNER] [TACOS CINDA CHAVICH PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA SALT],

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 17 “Packed from Fresh Tomatoes, Generation after Generation. Not from Concentrate”...

President Tom Cortopassi (kneeling) and “Coach” Dino Cortopassi (standing) in one of our tomato fields in Stanislaus County, California

Since 1942, our Restaurateur customers’ success Whether your restaurant has a long family history, T

H Y

E T has depended on the superior taste of the food they or whether you’re the founder, you can depend on our I S L E A A L Q U serve and of our products. family making the best “Real Italian” tomato O F As a family-owned business, it feels good knowing products...always Packed From Fresh Tomatoes, that so many of our customers have relied on our Never From Concentrate...generation after generation! STANISLAUS “Packed From Fresh Tomato” products from The “Real Italian” Tomato Company Packed Fromtoes! generation to generation. Toma E Fresh RAT Tom Cortopassi Dino Cortopassi ENT 1202 “D” Street Modesto, CA 95354 Toll Free 1-800-327-7201 ONC President/Owner Coach/Owner M C ©2006 Stanislaus Food Products FRO NOT

R1_SFPFoodSvrcHosptlty6.6 1 6/14/06, 8:58 AM

6)3) G6 +GI :G G-O “Packed from Fresh Tomatoes, Generation after Generation. Not from Concentrate”...

President Tom Cortopassi (kneeling) and “Coach” Dino Cortopassi (standing) in one of our tomato fields in Stanislaus County, California

Since 1942, our Restaurateur customers’ success Whether your restaurant has a long family history, T

H Y

R1_SFPFoodSvrcHosptlty6.6 1 6/14/06, 8:58 AM

6)3) G6 +GI :G G-O Welcome to F&H’s third-annual Food Issue. We hope the ingredient, chef and producer profiles that follow will inspire new ideas as Canada’s summer bounty creates a new energy in the kitchen and beyond

COLLARD GREENS BY MARY LUZ MEJIA

Collard greens, the southern soul-food staple, are taking the spotlight across North America. Chicago-based research firm Technomic’s “2015 10 Trends to Watch” report, lists collard greens (and cauliflower) as “next-gen cruciferous veggies” to watch. Hugh Acheson, a Canadian-born chef and owner of multiple restaurants, who now calls Georgia his home, declared collards “the new kale” during an appearance on Top Chef. The dark-hued loose-leafed ON THE MENU greens are part of the Brassica oleracea L. (Acephala group) family, the same cultivar group as kale, cabbage, broccoli and spring THE ACE, Toronto: Country-fried greens. Originally dubbed colewort (or wild cabbage plant), the chicken rests on a nest of collard veg likely originated in and around eastern Europe or Asia Minor greens sitting atop a slab of cornbread bathed in ham gravy ($19). and grows in cooler, temperate zones, sprouting leaves arranged in a rosette-like pattern around a stocky main stem. The leafy green FRESHII, Toronto: Any Freshii wrap is used in soups, sautéed — often with a savoury hit of pork — can be encased in collard greens. wilted, fried or even pickled. And, it’s more than a culinary standby in the American south. In Portugal, it’s used in caldo verde soup, EDIBLE CANADA BISTRO, and Brazilians favour it in bean-based stews called feijoada. Vancouver: Cascade Mountain Arctic char filet is paired with tomato fume, cannellini beans and wilted collard greens (part of $28 tasting menu).

LOIRE CASUAL GOURMET, Toronto: The daily market fish and mussel main is accompanied by lemon aranci- GREEN MACHINE ni, sautéed collard greens, almonds One cup of collard greens packs more than the daily and warm tartar sauce ($23). recommended intake of vitamins A and K, along with 7.6 grams of fibre. This soluble and insoluble fibre helps UNION LOCAL 613, Ottawa: A bone-in control LDL cholesterol levels, helps prevent constipation pork chop is served with creamed col- and even helps ward off colon cancers. lard greens and crispy leeks ($26). PHOTOS: VANCOUVER CANUCKS HOSPITALITY [GOAT CHEESE SALAD], DREAMSTIME.COM [BEETS BUNCH] [GOAT CANUCKS HOSPITALITY PHOTOS: VANCOUVER

20 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM INGREDIENT PROFILES

Beets are among the healthiest foods to eat. A few years ago that might have been their downfall. But, today, as consumers hunger for healthier foods, and new varieties of beets are now available, the root vegetable has become a menu staple and a chef favourite. Forming part of the Amarathaceae family, which also includes vegetables such as Swiss Chard, the scientific name for beets isBeta Vulgaris. While once known as the main ingredient in borscht soup, today’s chefs are presenting beets as the star ingredient in salads, either accompanied by goat’s cheese or simply roasted with a sprinkle of extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. And, at only 45 calories per 100 g, the once lowly beet is also one of the most versatile vegetables and is also ideal for juicing. Typically red to purple in colour, beets are now available in other colours, including orange-yellow and even white. In fact, one of the most popular varieties on restaurant menus is the chioggia beet, also known as the candy- cane beet. Its white and pink stripes create an interesting visual BEETS that allows chefs to get creative on the plate. BY ROSANNA CAIRA

ON THE MENU

YEW RESTAURANT, Vancouver: The Vancouver Island sea-salt baked beet and burrata salad is served with extra virgin olive oil, dehydrated beet powder, HEALING POWER cracked pepper and baby beet greens Beets may be for more than ($17). eating. “Beetroot juice is DRAKE 150, Toronto: The beet and blue one of the richest dietary cheese salad is served with Ontario stilton, sources of antioxidants roasted beets, puffed wild rice, avocado, and naturally occurring mache and hazelnut vinaigrette ($18). nitrates,” according to NOTA BENE, Toronto: Heirloom beets Peter Bongiorno and Pino complement yogurt and pepitas ($8). LoGiudice, medical direc- tors of Inner Source Health ROGERS CENTRE, Vancouver: The goat in New York, as featured cheese salad features golden, purple and candy-cane beets on a bed of creamy on The Dr. Oz Show web- goat’s cheese, garnished with beet tops site. “These natural nitrates and Chèvre meringues ($40 to serve increase a molecule in the eight). blood vessels called nitric

MISTURA, Toronto: Red Beet Risotto oxide, which helps open up is topped with golden beet chips ($18). vessels and allows more oxygen flow.” PHOTOS: VANCOUVER CANUCKS HOSPITALITY [GOAT CHEESE SALAD], DREAMSTIME.COM [BEETS BUNCH] [GOAT CANUCKS HOSPITALITY PHOTOS: VANCOUVER

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 21 INGREDIENT PROFILES

A staple in Asian and Caribbean cooking, sea vegetables are one of nature’s original superfoods. The nutritionally dense greens pack a wallop of vitamins and minerals, from calcium, iodine and iron to protein and vitamins A, B, C and E. Anyone who’s had sushi has likely consumed nori, and anyone who’s had seaweed salad has likely enjoyed arame. Other sea veggies include dulse, kombu, kelp and wakame. And, agar agar is a thickening agent of choice for vegetarians, which manufactur- SEA ers also use in everything from salad dressings to toothpaste. Justin Cournoyer, chef/owner of VEGETABLES Toronto’s Actinolite Restaurant, uses fresh or dried sea vegetables, depending on the season. BY MARY LUZ MEJIA He sources the “Canadian gems” from the East Coast. “Making use of these healthy and delicious items that grow in abundance where we live, instead of shipping ingredients grown in hotter climates that are not sustainable in Canada, [is key],” says Cournoyer, who relishes the umami that the veggies impart. Used to flavour broths, noodles or stews, consumed fresh or dried, Cournoyer pairs them with vegetables such as cucumber, asparagus and dark, leafy greens.

ON THE MENU

ACTINOLITE RESTAURANT, Toronto: The kelp and salt-brined halibut is steamed with kelp oil, topped with kelp flakes and accompanied with kelp-infused cooked kale, a charred cucumber and kelp sauce (chef’s menu, $90; summary menu, $55).

ENVIE - A VEGAN KITCHEN, Halifax: The Thai Dragon Bowl features kelp noodles, a Thai almond sauce, edamame, vegetables, shaved cabbage, home-grown sprouts, sesame seeds and gomasio (in two sizes, $9/$13).

FOGO ISLAND INN, N.L.: Ocean in a Bowl features various sea vegetables cooked, raw, toasted and smoked in a lobster broth and finished with Fogo Island scallops ($18).

TACOFINO FOOD TRUCK, Tofino, B.C.: The tuna taco features seared sesame-soy Albacore tuna garnished with wasabi-ginger mayo, shred- ded cabbage, mango salsa and wakame salad MSG DELIVERED encased in a tortilla ($6.50). Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda discovered salts naturally occurring in the kombu sea veggie were high in glutamates, giving complementary ingredients RESTAURANT SOY, Montreal: Scallop a richer, meaty/savoury note. In the 1900s, he dubbed this flavour “umami” and tartare is served with miso-lime mayo and

commercialized the compound as MSG (or monosodium glutamate). roasted seaweed ($9). PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM INGREDIENT PROFILES EGGS

BY ANDREW COPPOLINO

Laying hens have been a part of Canadian ON THE MENU husbandry since the days of Jacques Cartier and Samuel de Champlain. By the late 1800s the poultry industry was working LANGDON HALL, Cambridge, Ont.: to improve hen production and searching for the tastiest egg. We The tasting menu features egg with custard forestière, consommé en simply have a history of loving eggs. But between 1980 and 1995, gelée and fingerling potato. Canadians’ annual egg consumption dropped from 22 dozen per

person to 17 dozen, according to Ottawa-based Agriculture and RAYMONDS, St. John’s, N.L.: The Agri-Food Canada. The culprit? Cholesterol. Health concerns beef tenderloin is made with grass- eased when the “omega-3” egg appeared, but any egg has high fed P.E.I. beef, veal sweetbreads, amounts of protein, vitamin B12 and other nutrients, which Jerusalem artichokes, mushrooms, are essential for maintaining good health, says Jane Dummer, onion soubise, kale, egg sauce and registered dietitian. “Most research and health experts suggest red wine mushroom jus ($49). eating one egg a day is fine,” she adds. “However, if you have a history of heart disease or Type 2 diabetes, it is best to consult BUCA, Toronto: The ravioli-like your dietitian.” In their restaurant application, eggs are both Ligurian pansotti is prepared with buffalo ricotta, walnut pesto and a duck ingredient and dish, and, with the rising cost of meats, they are yolk ($22). a relatively inexpensive protein. The popularity of dishes such as

the fabulous Korean bibimbap and spicy huevos rancheros feature eggs as a centre-of-the-plate protein and can turn a classic brunch eggs Benedict into a nifty slider-like dinner app.

IF IT QUACKS LIKE A DUCK… Duck eggs are widely seen at farmers’ markets and specialty THE CANTEEN, Dartmouth, N.S.: food shops. They’re 20- to 35- The Breakfast Pizza features extra- per-cent larger than chicken eggs, old cheddar and Old Growler cheese so it makes sense that they are melted around bacon slivers and a more nutrient-rich and have more sunny-side-up egg ($8). iron, potassium, vitamin B12, calcium — and cholesterol. ANJU RESTAURANT, Calgary: Eggs are gently cooked to 63˚C in a few Korean “tapas” dishes, including bibimbap ($16) and a quail egg nestled on Wagyu tartare ($16). PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 23 INGREDIENT PROFILES

UGLY FISH

BY CINDA CHAVICH

Whether it’s sturgeon, geoduck clams or massive Humboldt squid, chefs are discovering odd and even ugly fish can be extremely tasty. “Our objective is to utilize lesser-known ingredients while introducing guests to new experiences and flavours,” says Frank Pabst, executive chef of Vancouver’s Blue Water Café, who celebrates unique, sustainable seafood at his annual Unsung Heroes dinner, which features dishes such as stir-fried jellyfish and poached periwinkles. While many popular species are unsustainable choices, many of these unusual fish remain plentiful in the wild, though still rare on menus. Herring and mackerel, for example, are often still sold for bait, while sturgeon, though endangered in the wild, is now being sustainably farmed for caviar and meat. “Sturgeon have many uses — the liver is like foie, the skin is like pork, and though there are no bones, there’s marrow,” says chef Jefferson Alvarez who uses the certified-organic white sturgeon meat produced by Northern Divine at its land-based farm in B.C. on his $150, 10-course tasting menu at Vancouver’s Secret Location. He cures the meat “like candied salmon,” boils, dries and then fries the skin “like chicharron,” sears the liver and adds the gelatinous marrow to soup. Other chefs are discovering new ways to serve Pacific squid. At Wolf in the Fog, chef Nick Nutting serves a one-inch thick piece of local Humboldt squid, charred for 45 seconds in smoking grapeseed oil, then thinly sliced and offered alongside a Vietnamese-style slaw of carrot, cucumber and daikon radish. “I want to showcase the awesome seafood that’s found in Tofino and elevate it,” says Nutting.

ON THE MENU

WOLF IN THE FOG, Tofino, B.C.: Charred Humboldt squid is served with grapefruit, sprouts, cilantro and basil ($14).

NICLI’S NEXT DOOR, Vancouver: Crostino is served with salsa verde and white anchovy ($8).

EAST THIRTY-SIX, Toronto: Humboldt squid is presented with togarashi mayo, cilantro, yuzu salt DIG DEEP and cucumber ($10). Geoduck (meaning “dig deep” in the Native American Nisqually language) FARMER’S APPRENTICE is popular as sashimi in Japan and RESTAURANT, Vancouver: in Chinese hot pots. These unusual Mackerel is served with beetroot, clams, with their large, protruding blood orange, samphire and pine siphons, are harvested on Canada’s nuts ($15). West Coast by divers who use pressur- ized water to dislodge them from the

LA PENTOLA, Vancouver: Grilled sandy ocean floor. Now they are being Humboldt squid is paired with seeded in geoduck farms, “planted” in parsley purée and scarlet runner PVC pipes in tidal flats on Vancouver beans ($17). Island. Pegged to be the world’s largest clam, some weigh as much as 8 kg and can have necks up to a metre long.

24 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM INGREDIENT PROFILES

It’s been a decade since the Vancouver SPOT PRAWNS Aquarium launched its Ocean Wise program and began helping chefs identify the best choices for sustainable & OCTOPUS seafood. Now, an increasing number of toques are offering seafood such as rare spot prawns and giant BY CINDA CHAVICH Pacific octopus on their menus, developing creative ways to serve Canada’s cleanest catches. “One of our proudest moments is hearing consumers ask for Ocean Wise options in restaurants and markets to ensure the seafood they are eating is sustainably sourced,” says Dolf DeJong, VP, Conservation and Education, Vancouver Aquarium. Spot prawns, one of the few ocean-friendly shrimp available, are now celebrated with festivals and special menus during the short spring fishing season. Chef Chris Whittaker of Vancouver’s Forage restaurant helped organize the first spot prawn festivals in Vancouver and now features the sweet, crisp shrimp on his menu. Sadly, the large prawn only accounts for one per cent of the shrimp landed, and the highly perishable delicacy is only available fresh for a few weeks in May. Meanwhile, the giant Pacific octopus, the world’s largest, is an Ocean Wise choice when diver- caught in B.C. but not when caught as bycatch from destructive bottom-trawling. Octopus feed on crabs and prawns, so they’re often pulled up in the traps used to catch those shellfish. ON THE MENU

LUPO, Vancouver: Octopus car- paccio with pimenton and limon- cello ($16).

OCTOPUS’ GARDEN, Vancouver: ‘Sada’s Own’ Nomu Ebi Shooter, spot prawn, mountain potato, quail egg and wasabi Japanese salt, comes with a deep-fried head ($8.50).

FORAGE, Vancouver: B.C. spot prawns are served with handmade cold noodles, prawn oil and spicy kelp ($18).

THE CHASE, Toronto: Octopus is roasted and tossed in salsa verde, with piquillo peppers, harissa, mer- guez sausage and olives ($23).

CHARCUT ROAST HOUSE, Calgary: Charred octopus is served with sausage, stewed FISHING WITH A CONSCIENCE tomatoes, gigante beans and chili Wild B.C. spot prawns are unusual shrimp — a carnivorous species, they are caught in baited oil ($17). traps like crab, an environmentally sustainable style of fishing. Other shrimp are caught by bottom-trawling, which can be destructive to ocean habitat, though trawled B.C. sidestripe, humpback and pink shrimp are also sustainable seafood options.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 25 INGREDIENT PROFILES

CAULIFLOWER

BY MARY LUZ MEJIA

Cauliflower — like its cousins the collard greens, broccoli, kale and watercress — is part of the cabbage or the Brassica oleracea family and dates back to 6th century BC. Chefs, such as Dave Mottershall, owner of Toronto’s Loka Snacks, appreciate the vegetable’s versatility. It can be eaten raw, baked, fried, pickled, steamed, braised, boiled or grilled, has the texture of starch (although it’s not very starchy) and often replaces flour, rice or potatoes in dishes. It’s also a toothsome vegetable, which means it’s a culinary body double for proteins when thickly sliced, like a steak, as it holds its shape during cooking and caramelizes when baked or grilled. Low-carb, low-fat and high in fibre and vitamin C, it’s a healthy option winning attention on vegetarian, vegan and meaty menus across the country.

ON THE MENU

LOKA SNACKS, TORONTO: Gobi Manchurian crispy cauliflower with wild ginger sauce features fried florets tossed in a sweet, sticky, ginger, Ontario garlic and chili sauce ($8).

OAK TREE TAVERN, CALGARY: Hummus features roasted cauliflower and chickpeas topped with curry-pickled florets and naan bread on the side ($10).

NUBA, VANCOUVER: Najib’s Special features crispy cauliflower tossed in lemon juice and sea salt and served with tahini sauce ($8.50). FLORET FAMILY TREE Italian, Northern European and ROSTIZADO BY TRES CARNALES, Asian cauliflower varieties are EDMONTON: Roasted cauliflower is available in a rainbow of colours, spiced with chile de arbol, cumin, sea salt, ranging from white to purple, lime juice and roasted garlic, then sautéed orange and green. The orange

in pork fat (full order $13; half order $7). variation, sometimes called “ched- PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM dar” or “orange bouquet,” contains FAT PASHA, TORONTO: Cauliflower is 25 per cent more vitamin A than roasted until caramelized, slathered with its white counterpart. The colour tahini and cilantro sauce and crowned with is derived from a natural mutant pine nuts, pomegranate seeds and grilled organism originally found in a halloumi cheese (half, $14; full, $18). Canadian cauliflower field.

26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM Dear Chef, Every time I meet you, I hear "I love duck… it's one of my favourites." That's great news. So is the news that more Canadians are enjoying duck, too! Appetizers using our smoked duck breasts or pulled duck, entrees featuring tender rich flavoured boneless breasts or confit have had our 'duck line' ringing off the hook as more and more customers' have discovered duck. Your comments and innovative new ways to serve duck continue to inspire us and I can't wait for that next trade show or cross-country visit to collaborate even more! We are proud of how we farm and even more proud when we see our duck on your menu. On behalf of our farm family and staff, thanks for choosing King Cole. Patti WWW.KINGCOLEDUCKS.COM More Menus, More Ways. More Menus, More Ways.

Smoked Duck Salad! Duck Smoked For the distributor nearest you please call 1-800-363-DUCK Boneless Breasts Duck Breasts Pulled Duck Meat Other Duck Specialties Grade A Whole Duck Duck Spiedini Skewers Duck Legs Duck Wings Boneless Duck Breasts Rendered Duck Fat Peppered Smoked Peppered Smoked Smoked Boneless Smoked Boneless Confit Duck Legs

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PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM INGREDIENT PROFILES

RIBS BY ANDREW COPPOLINO

The cliché is The Flintstones cartoon and “brontosaurus ribs” top- pling Fred’s car at the Palaeolithic drive-thru. Depending on the cut, it’s not far off the mark since beef ribs can be stone-age large — there are 13 ribs on beef cattle. The first four are in the shoulder (chuck) and can be butchered as longer English-cut ribs and “flanken-style” cut across the ribs, according to Dave Meli, head butcher at Toronto’s The Healthy Butcher. The fifth to 12th ribs give us full back ribs — those long ribs attached to the cattle’s spine — and what you get in rib roast. “Back ribs are the curved, caveman-like beef ribs at barbecue joints, which are braised and grilled with lots of barbecue sauce,” Meli says. However, that’s premium meat, so it can be costly. The key to good beef ribs is the meat-to-fat- to-bone ratio. The muscle itself isn’t necessarily tough, but all of the meat is con- nected to bone with elastin (which doesn’t break down with cooking) and contains collagen (which does). “That’s why ribs require a decent amount of cooking time, depending on how thick you cut them,” says Meli. And, it’s why they taste so good when prepared properly.

ON THE MENU

LANCASTER SMOKEHOUSE, Kitchener, Ont.: The prime ribs are smoked for four hours and smothered in sauce like a pork rib ($18).

PARK RESTAURANT, Westmount, Que.: Classic braised kalbi short ribs ($39).

HOGTOWN SMOKE, Toronto: The large-bone beef ribs are affectionately called “the John Deere of chuck beef ribs” by owner Scott Fraser (one, $30).

BIG T’S BBQ AND SMOKEHOUSE, Calgary: The prime rib beef bone at Big T’s smokes for four hours ($29).

EDNA, Halifax: Guests can share 32 ounces of bone-in Cowboy Rib Chop with fries, demi-glace and salad ($70).

WHAT’S IN A SHORT RIB’S NAME? PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM Depending on how they are sauced and cooked, thinly sliced beef short ribs might be thought of as “meat candy,” says Dave Meli, head butcher at Toronto’s The Healthy Butcher. Argentine restaurants serve them as asado di tira, and you might encounter them as Miami or Korean ribs (the latter of which is known as kalbi).

28 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM CHEF PROFILES

F&H: What have you learned from chef Chuck Hughes? Danny Smiles: Honest cook- YOUNG & ing. [He’s a] very ingredient- driven chef. And, I’ve learned how to be a key player in the INSPIRED front-of-the-house — have that charisma. I learned how important it was to be there for your DANNY SMILES rocks to his own beat customers and not only be in as chef at Chuck Hughes’ Le Bremner the kitchen.

BY BRIANNE BINELLI F&H: What’s your fondest PHOTOGRAPH BY DREW HADLEY career memory? DS: I cooked for Ferran Adrià. I remember Chuck calling me in the morning, saying, Ferran Adrià is coming to eat at the restaurant. And, it was 8 o’clock in the morning, and he’s like ‘You should come down now, and we’ll plan.’ I was a sous chef at the time, so it was really cool. We were all Broadcast really excited. He’s done a lot Radio — not cook- for food. ing — was one of Danny F&H: What did you cook Smiles’ first passions. That for him? wasn’t the industry he was DS: We did a nice rosemary bread, a Dungeness crab hoping to break into but the salad [and horseradish name of the indie band he gravlax]. toured with across Canada. F&H: What was your greatest Incidentally, it was that pas- career challenge, and how sion that led him to the did you overcome it? kitchen, where he initially DS: To become the chef at Bremner at a very young age. signed up to earn enough I became the chef in 2011, so money to buy drums; I was 26. I had the weight of instead kitchen camaraderie Chuck’s career on my shoul- ders…. I don’t think I was wooed him into the world ready, and I had no choice; it of culinary arts. After learn- was really hard for me the first ing the craft, he staged with six months. [Being] very young, trying to prove yourself, people renowned Michelin-rated had a hard time respecting chef Gualtiero Marchesi in [me] in the kitchen…. That was Italy and founded his own my challenge — how to create a team, how to surround catering company. Four myself, how to keep going. years ago he was in the right And, I’m still here at 30. place at the right time and F&H: What advice do you landed a job at Montreal’s have for young chefs? Le Bremner while grabbing DS: Make sure this is what you a meal the day after celebrity want to do for the rest of your life. It’s not a lifestyle, it’s a life chef-owner Chuck Hughes — life dedication. If you come opened the resto. Since then, from a sports background, or a Smiles has risen from the role music background or anything you’re dedicated in, you’ll do of line cook to chef de cuisine, well, but make sure you’re not

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM competed on Top Chef Canada lying to yourself. and was the first Canadian to compete at the 14th annual SCHOOL’S IN The culinary world has exploded in just a few years. S. Pellegrino Cooking Cup in “We were one class of 16 people when I graduated [from] cooking school Italy last year. in 2005,” recalls Le Bremner’s Danny Smiles, who studied at St. Pius X Culinary Institute in Montreal. “I went back last year to give a speech at graduation — I think there were over 250 [graduates].”

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 29 CHEF PROFILES

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED AMIRA BECAREVIC is part of a growing generation of chefs driving growth and innovation

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN HYRANIUK

Nestled inside the swanky Thompson Toronto, the 119-seat Colette Grand Café is the epitome of a modern Parisian bistro, and behind the plush banquettes and colourful produce on the plate is a chef eager to innovate and inspire her team to prepare dishes such as veal tartare ($16), trout ($36) and goat’s cheese soufflés ($16). Meet Amira Becarevic, a 33-year- old Toronto native who developed a love for cooking at the age of 17 during a summer catering job. Since then, the Liaison College grad’s résumé has grown to include the Four Seasons Whistler, Splendido, Reds Wine Tavern and Epic at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel in Toronto. In 2013, Becarevic joined Toronto’s Chase INSPIRING FUTURE GENERATIONS Amira Becarevic has Hospitality Group, where she advanced from the advice for the industry’s newest employees: “Think outside the box, create role of chef de cuisine at The Chase to executive your own path, be ambitious and show interest. Things aren’t going to chef. Earlier this year she was promoted to exec- be handed to you; you have to work for them and ask for them and merit utive chef of Colette Grand Café, where she’s receiving opportunities,” she says. creating buzz about the nearly year-old concept.

F&H: What’s your culinary F&H: What childhood hazelnuts, charred eggplant F&H: What is your biggest F&H: What’s next? philosophy? memories shaped your and toasted couscous, $24.) challenge at Colette? AB: We’re starting to think Amira Becarevic: Getting career as a chef? AB: It’s a keen understanding about summer dishes, so I’m the most beautiful product AB: My family is eastern F&H: What type of a leader that we want to keep learn- excited for summer produce. I you can and not altering it too European. We would roast are you? ing, we want to keep growing. can’t wait for tomatoes…. We much. Bringing out the beauty pigs on the weekend in the AB: Firm but fair. I’ve been We’re always evolving and do a nice brunch here…. It of the product — the freshest, backyard. My lunch at school part of that old-school mental- having inspired ideas — not has something for everybody, the ripest, the most prized was hard-boiled eggs and ity of screaming and yelling, reinventing the wheel but hav- and it’s received great com- in the market and in season, grilled chicken thighs from the and I don’t find this generation ing a fresh take on the classics ments, and a lot of regular and ideally keeping things barbecue or roasted lamb, of cooks responds well to that. or a new version that’s going guests return, so I’m excited local ... [with] flavours that pickled peppers. It wasn’t They’re more productive when to keep people excited and for that to ramp up. Colette is remind you of your childhood Wonder Bread and baloney. they’re given a clear direction wanting to come back. only nine-months old, so I’m and fond memories. Nothing (Colette’s Grilled Leg of Lamb with positive encouragement excited to see what lies ahead. overcomplicated or too fussy. is marinated in yogurt and chili as well as consequences if Just honest, pure flavours. and accompanied by spiced things aren’t up to standard.

30 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM CHEF PROFILES SWEET GENIUS FARZAM FALLAH takes inspiration from his childhood in Iran and classic films to create sweet delicacies at Richmond Station

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER | PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN HYRANIUK

Don’t skip dessert. That’s the message Tehran-born pastry chef Farzam Fallah hopes to send to guests at Toronto’s Richmond Station, where each bite of his whimsically inspired eats offers a new experience. His desserts are memorable. After working his way through the kitchens of Thornhill, Ont.’s Terra restaurant, Toronto’s Ruby Watchco and Pizzeria Libretto, he whipped up a lemon posset for his soon- to-be front-of-house manager at Richmond Station and impressed her so much that it helped him land his current gig. With desserts such as white chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream, cooked citrus, cultured tres leches and afsaneh spice ($9), the 23-year-old is converting the masses, convincing them to take new joy in the last course.

F&H: What was your earliest culinary memory? F&H: Tell me about one of your more memorable creations. Farzam Fallah: Sitting at [my aunt’s] dinner table. While FF: My favourite dessert so far has been the snozberry sher- cooking she would take a piece of bread, dip it into a pot bet, [inspired by] that scene in Willy Wonka & the Chocolate and feed me. She used a lot of animal fat to cook with … Factory where they’re eating the everlasting Gobstopper, and and I always remembered oil dripping off her fingers and they keep mentioning different flavours they taste. So my idea just how delicious that fat-soaked bread tasted. was to create something where every single bite [would] be different, texturally and flavourfully. The ice cream itself was F&H: What attracted you to the sweet as opposed tonka-bean based, and we would add beet juice, carrot juice to the savoury? and spinach into it — each one sweetened to a different level. FF: The number of things that I can do with flour, eggs, It was served with five different sauces. butter and sugar are astronomical when you think about it. With these four basic ingredients you can create so F&H: How do you address dietary concerns on the menu? much, whereas a carrot can only be turned into a carrot FF: When I started writing menus for Richmond Station I made soup or a carrot purée or roasted carrot — it will always an effort to create gluten- and dairy-free desserts, and, on be a carrot. With flour you have a chemical change, every menu, there’s at least one gluten-free dessert and one and it can become something new. thing we can create on the fly that is dairy-free or vegan.

F&H: Did you have a mentor? FF: Not really. I’ve been fairly independent in the industry. I’ve had this thing where I’d get a job, work at a restaurant, and, as soon as I got bored, I would leave, which isn’t the best characteristic of an employee. I wanted TRICK OF THE TRADE Cocktail bitters can zest up a to constantly learn and become better, and that’s why I dessert, even if Farzam Fallah, Richmond Station’s pastry chef, moved from restaurant to restaurant. considers it cheating. “I use cocktail bitters in different recipes, usually to enhance the flavour, because cocktail bitters are so floral and [fragrant],” he says.

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F&H: What ingredients from the restaurant are sourced from your backyard? ALL IN Katie Hayes: We tailor our menu to what is available from the garden each morning — sweet overwintered parsnips to start the menu in the THE FAMILY spring, early greens from the heated greenhouse, raspberries, apples and KATIE HAYES, chef/owner of the rhubarb, asparagus, herbs through- out the summer. Honey from our Bonavista Social Club, is inspired beehives, goat’s milk soap from our by the land she worked as a child goats, meat from the animals in the field, eggs from the roaming hens, BY BRIANNE BINELLI seafood from the bay in front of the PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIAN RICK restaurant complement the garden fare. Just for fun, we import green coffee grown on my uncle’s eco- lodge in Costa Rica, roasted on site More than 20 years ago, for maximum freshness. Katie Hayes roamed her family’s property F&H: What’s your signature dish in Upper Amherst Cove, N.L., picking rocks at the restaurant? to open garden beds. Today, the 29-year- KH: My signature dish would have to be pizza. It easily incorporates the old graduate of Charlottetown’s Culinary fresh ingredients that surround us Institute of Canada is working that same and highlights our wood-fired land, having opened Bonavista Social Club — bread oven.

a reference to the Cuban venue, band, album F&H: Diners drive hours to experi- and nearby Bonavista Peninsula — in 2012 ence your restaurant. Food aside, with her husband, Shane. The timber-frame how do you woo them? KH: Our location in a secluded com- outpost was originally built by Katie’s father, munity off the highway at the ocean’s Mike Paterson, to house his wooden furni- edge — a relaxed atmosphere ture, before he renovated it to become a sea- [offering] fresh food in a fast-paced world — makes people slow down sonal 24-seat restaurant (with a 40-seat deck) and think about what they are eating. brimming with rustic charm. The wood-fired The friendly local staff, open kitchen oven churns out bread daily, which comple- and view of the gardens and animals enhance this experience and keep ments the local-inspired menu of pizzas, people coming back. Not to mention sandwiches and salads ($25 to $40 per per- the icebergs, whales and son), topped with house-made oils, vinegars bald eagles.

and dressings. The three-hour drive from St. F&H: What advice do you have for John’s, N.L. doesn’t deter diners who flock to potential chef/farmers? the oceanside hideaway, commanding 100 to KH: Any chef looking to farm his own land and run a restaurant would 150 covers daily. The goal? “To showcase the do well to keep it simple, grow what simplicity of how this local-raised fare has does well in that climate and not try always been part of our culture,” says Hayes, to do too much. Well-grown produce speaks for itself — showcase it. Don’t who will no doubt pass on her love of the underestimate the value of home- land to her two girls, Claragh and Dorothy. grown ingredients.

FROM FARM TO PLATE The Bonavista Social Club’s local theme is highlighted in everything, from its furniture to its plates. “My dad (Mike Paterson) uses the ends of our birch firewood to handcraft each piece. Our family has always used wooden plates and bowls, so it was a natural progression to use them in our restaurant…. There is no worry about breaking them if they fall on the floor. If they get cracked, they become fuel for the wood-fired bread.”

32 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PRODUCER PROFILES

FLAVOUR SEEKER PURE INFUSED MAPLE SYRUP is leading a revolution to elevate the Canadian staple to new heights

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

in contact with [a] gentle- maple syrup and the ingre- Chris and Anna Hutchinson owned a trucking man by the name of Peter dients we use, they’re all company in Ontario before selling the business in 2004 to pursue a sweeter Dewar (pictured), a teacher natural, no additives. So, it’s a gig — producing maple syrup from a 3,500-acre farm in Lake Paul, N.S. of culinary [at Nova Scotia wonderful base to work with, But what they created wasn’t just any old table syrup. Pure Infused Maple Community College] in because it [augments] fla- Syrup is a collection of five, 100-per-cent natural flavours: vanilla, cin- the [Annapolis] Valley. We vours rather than mask them. namon and star anise; lavender and chai; cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves; worked with him, and he’s (The Lady Auger cocktail, for maple syrup, ginger and apple-cider vinegar; as well as chipotle and lem- the creator of recipes in example, combines 3/4-oz. ongrass. The team sought the help of local chef Peter Dewar to find ways stores now. lavender and chai maple to add the flavoured syrup to dinner staples, desserts and cocktails. The syrup, 1/2-oz. blueberry juice, opportunities are endless. For example, the chipotle and lemongrass syrup F&H: How is your maple 1/2-oz. fresh lemon juice and syrup used in mixology? 1-oz. gin.) can be used as part of a dipping sauce for chicken wings, and its maple CH: The cocktail industry, syrup, ginger and apple-cider vinegar can be drizzled over pork or chicken especially in the West, is F&H: What’s next for the before serving. The liquid gold is building recognition for a company that’s really growing — people don’t Pure team? continuing to innovate in the maple product category. want a basic rum and coke CH: We are thinking about anymore. They’re looking for more products along the Pure F&H: How did the company we’ve become, I believe, the on, that maple syrup sales something more exotic and Infused line; we’re looking at get its start? largest producer of maple are flat. It has been [that way] better for them; they want to maple water — that’s going to Chris Hutchinson: It didn’t products in Nova Scotia, and for a few years now. So, to know the ingredients. With be the next coconut water. start out as a maple syrup we’re going to double that sell our product — and we operation. It was just some capacity this coming year. planned on making a lot of IN SEASON land, and we found some it — we needed a different Hutchinson Acres in Lake Paul, N.S. is ramping sugar bush. We started very F&H: How are you elevating venue. So, we sat down with up its maple-syrup production. With 35,000 taps small, and it grew out of that maple syrup? a number of people, we had on the land, the group will add another 30,000 in the last seven years. Now, CH: We realized, very early some ideas, and we came this year.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 33 PRODUCER PROFILES

F&H: What’s the origin of forced to bring in berries from the berry? Saskatchewan, Quebec and Liam Tayler: It has a beauti- even some from Poland to ful story. The word Haskap create the Haskapa range of comes from the Ainu (people Haskap berry products — to indigenous to the lands give farmers the confidence of northern Japan) word to plant the bushes. Since pronounced ‘hasukappu,’ officially launching our prod- which means ‘little present on ucts in 2014, we have seen the end of the branch.’ The a surge in farmers interested Japanese have revered it for in planting the Haskap on a generations, because the commercial basis. TAKING ROOT berry is known as the fruit of life longevity and good vision. F&H: How can chefs use it? THE HASKAP BERRY is reborn in Canada, thanks The marketing genius who LT: The Haskap is an incred- to companies like Haskapa came up with the name blue- ibly versatile berry with a berry should be shot for lack flavour profile somewhere BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER of imagination. But this has between a black currant, got a real romantic history. blackberry and blueberry and physically similar in texture to It’s hailed as a superfood, but many have never heard F&H: What’s the biggest a slightly soft blueberry. It can of it. The Haskap is an oval-shaped berry packed with a double-whammy challenge in marketing be used in any application of antioxidants and vitamin C. Simon Fineman, a U.K.-based timber mer- this berry? that any other berries can be chant, is helping to put it in the spotlight. The journey began in 2010 with LT: The question that plagues used, with the added bonus the birth of LaHave Forests, Inc. in Blockhouse, N.S., which was intended to us is [people asking] ‘What’s that the deep crimson colour be a sustainable agroforestry project, until Fineman discovered the region’s the Haskap?’ What has been of the Haskap infuses every- forests were too young and switched his focus to agriculture. After research- one of the biggest challenges thing it touches. Chefs have ing crops, including hardy kiwi, blueberry and hops, the team decided to for us to overcome is every- created cheesecakes, coulis, one — from the department cocktails and canapés from grow the Haskap berry and planted an acre in a forest clearing. When they of agriculture to locals — say- the Haskap. checked on it a year later, the vibrant berries were thriving within the weeds. ing we grow blueberries. Now, Liam Tayler, commercial director, is gearing up to expand the business with a line of Haskapa-branded products, including juice, jam, chutney, rel- F&H: What did you have ish, dried berry and maple syrup. to do to bring the Haskap berry to market? BERRY GOOD Halifax’s Dalhousie University and LaHave Forests LT: We needed to show it was have embarked on a research project to test the anti-cancer and anti-inflam- a commercially viable crop by matory properties of the Haskap berry and find new ways to maximize the creating saleable products; fruit’s bioactive content. “We hope this study will help us develop cancer-pre- yet we couldn’t create value- ventive food products as well as educate the public about cancer-preventive added products without a dietary habits,” says Vasantha Rupasinghe, Canada research chair in Fruit significant supply of berries. Bioactives and BioProducts. We were caught in a catch-22 situation, so initially we were

34 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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THE 2015

Canadians are continuing their quest for craft beers, warming up to premium spirits and swooning to the wine varietal standouts BAR BY ALAN McGINTY| REPORT

BEER according to Statistics inot Grigio bumps Beer isn’t going any- Canada’s 2014 alcohol Chardonnay from the where anytime soon, of sales summary. course, but overall vol- It was the same story top spot on white wine ume sales are ho-hum. in the U.S., says Donna To wit, such stats for Hood-Crecca, senior

lists, Cabernet Sauvignon Canadian beer show a director and on-premise PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM dominates reds, craft beer’s 1.9-per-cent drop from beverage consultant for 2013 to 2014, and the Technomic, a Chicago- explosive growth continues, and decline was not offset by based foodservice P the 0.7-per-cent increase research and consulting premium brands drive spirit sales. in imported beer sales, firm. “[In] 2014, overall

36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM POURING FOR PROFITS

BARCanadians are continuing their quest for craft beers,REPORT warming up to premium spirits and swooning to the wine varietal standouts

beer volume was down Control Board of Ontario feeds of sports. On other cent of sales. “The reps McNair, bar manager. 0.4 per cent,” she says. (LCBO) show craft beer days, craft beer (includ- are amazing. If you sup- With more than 100 But don’t be deterred. was up 72.5 per cent in ing flavoured offerings) port their product, you’ll imported beers and 50 “Beer is not dead. It’s a 2014 over 2012. gains ground. “Eight of benefit hugely from their taps, featuring every- very dynamic category That doesn’t mean the our taps are local brewer- support [for promotional thing from lagers and — craft beer is seeing big brands are flounder- ies and half of those are efforts],” she says. bitters to fruit beers, The

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM double-digit growth ing. On football Sundays, flavoured,” says Lindsey The Metropolitan Metro attracts people and imports, especially big-brand brews domi- Twinn, bar manager. Billiards Club in who want to try some- from Mexico, are growing nate sales at G Sports Bar She works closely with Edmonton has 25 sports thing new. Craft beer strongly,” adds Hood- and Grill in Vancouver, craft breweries, whose screens, plus 15 billiard accounts for approxi- Crecca. In Ontario, where 24 HD TV screens beer now accounts for tables, and offering mately 40 per cent of figures from the Liquor stream seven satellite approximately 40 per options is key, says Sarah sales; it doesn’t hurt that

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 37 POURING FOR PROFITS

balance right,” explains Cooper Tardivel, bar and lounge manager. That said, Tardivel does note that American whiskies and mezcal are enjoying popularity. For example, tequila, which WHISKY WISDOM is technically a mez- Whisky bars are opening at a record pace, and while not every cal (though it’s made bar should be a whisky bar, fans of the distilled beverage only from blue agave) expect restaurants to stock their favourites. Thankfully, this was up 7.2 per cent in can be addressed by focused, budget-conscious restaurateurs. December 2014 over Today’s consumers are stepping away from light-flavoured December 2013 at the whiskies, so update the standard. They want to taste their rye British Columbia Liquor and feel their bourbons. While scotch interest is declining, Distribution Branch interest for Canadian rye and American bourbons is high. (BCLDB). Other agaves The growth in both sectors is double-digit year-over-year, McNair has a trick for Thomas Beraud Sudreau, that are made into mez- according to the Washington-based Distilled Spirit Council attracting big-brand cus- area manager for Canada cal are gaining ground of the United States. tomers to smaller brews. at Rémy Cointreau, has in the western U.S. and “If they’re nervous about noticed Canadians are Vancouver, according to If it says rye on the bottle, it’s likely to grab attention. While trying something, a lower migrating to higher-qual- Tardivel. With that mez- it isn’t expected that all restaurants will feature the extremely price will make it an easi- ity offerings. “Premium cal growth spilling over rare and pricey Pappy Van Winkle behind the bar, whiskies er sell,” she confides. products are doing well. into Canada, it could be a such as Masterson’s Straight Rye, Booker’s or special Four Roses release bottles are a draw for the fast-growing whisky In brown spirits, pre- good niche drink to add consumer group. When selecting top-shelf whiskies, don’t SPIRITS mium bourbons and to the menu. buy multiple products, have one or two for guests looking The popularity of indi- single-malt scotches are After all, adding offer- for a quality drink. (Top-shelf whiskies such as bourbon and vidual spirits is always growing even as more ings is key to satisfying Canadian whisky costs approximately $40, single-malt scotch evolving, but the category affordable whiskies are customers; that idea costs approximately $80.) Make sure your staff understands only showed a marginal declining. Gin is the applies to mixed drinks, why the offerings are top-shelf. For example, “straight” bour- 0.5-per-cent increase in fastest-growing category.” too. “Clients have higher bons/ryes are considered premium, because there are no sales by value for 2014 The area manager calls expectations for cocktails. additives such as flavouring or colouring. over 2013, according to the premium Hendricks People want innovation,” Statistics Canada. Indeed, this year’s “it” gin. “Every explains Omar Khalil, Classic cocktails such the Manhattan the change is occurring high-end cocktail bar and the GM of Newtown, and Old Fashioned have made a huge comeback — stirred, not shaken. Consumers’ within the segment. hotel lounge will have it, a multi-level bar and whisky palates are evolving, and they care about and it’s up 22 per cent in restaurant in Montreal. which whisky is mixed in their drink. Introduce new the past year,” he says. Khalil’s team reworks twists with less traditional ingredients (such as At Hawksworth classics, adding fresh a whisky-based Caesar). Also feature popular high- Restaurant in Vancouver, horseradish to a Bloody end whiskies such as Lot 40, Bulleit Rye and

quality cocktails are suc- Caesar, for example. Wild Turkey 101. PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM [CRAFT BEER, MANHATTAN, WHISKY] cessful — Meanwhile, sangria, not one par- the bitter Fernet-Branca Whisky drinkers are skipping second pours ticular spirit. and spiced dark rums are of wine and beer; instead there is a growing trend “The trend big in Montreal this year. toward ordering it at the start or end of a meal. Having a well is towards Although rum has been thought out whisky selection behind the bar is about creating an experience with rare but avail- intelligent in decline in Canada, able whiskies. bartending. Rémy Cointreau’s Beraud

Use fresh Sudreau sees growth in A whisky expert and author ingredients, spiced rum as well as pre- of The Whisky Cabinet make it all mium and craft varieties. (thewhiskycabinet.com), Mark clear to the And, the BCLDB says Bylok provides consultation to customer, imported dark rum sales restaurant owners and trains get the rose 11.7 per cent in B.C. employees on whisky selection.

38 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2015 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM POURING FOR PROFITS

in 2014. On a more glob- zero- or low-alcohol al level, London, U.K.- cocktails,” notes Leach. based Diageo reported Hawksworth’s Tardivel sales of its Captain concurs. “A lot of people Morgan rum rose five per don’t want to have a cent in North America drink at lunchtime, but and jumped 15 per cent they want something in Europe in 2013. more exciting than a Of course, rum isn’t soda water or pop,” he always the answer. explains. “Our zero-proof “We’re known for our cocktails use fresh juices cocktails, especially and house-made syrups.” our Old Fashioned and Pisco Sour,” says Brynley WINE When your Leach, bar manager at In keeping with general glassware Montreal’s Le Slang. alcohol category trends Leach’s Old Fashioned this year, wines have sparkles, includes premium bour- shown minimal growth so does your bon, and a variation overall, while the grape reputation. features maple syrup of choice continues to instead of sugar. She evolve. Canadian retail ramps up the flavour by outlets sold $6.4-bil- putting the glass inside a lion worth of wine Introducing the Bar Maid Glass Polisher. food smoker. “The smoke in the period ended This portable glass polisher saves time and effort by ensuring wet glasses get seeps into the liquid and March 31, 2014, up 2.3 gently polished and dried simultaneously in seconds, eliminating the need for is present on the glass, per cent from 2013, potentially unsanitary hand polishing and reducing breakage. Essential for hotels, so it’s noticeable. We according to Statistics caterers, bars, restaurants, event venues and glassware rental companies for garnish the maple Old Canada. LCBO stats whom consistently brilliant glassware is important for maintaining their reputation. Fashioned with bacon,” show Pinot Grigio is the bar manager adds, up 15.6 per cent from Glass Washers • Glassware Detergent • Blenders emphasizing the pre- 2012 to 2014 and is now mium ingredients. tied with Chardonnay Keg Cart & Dolly • Juicers • Bar Necessities But not everyone is as the number-1 white. interested in drinks with Cabernet Sauvignon is high-alcohol content. up a whopping 25.6 per “There’s been a huge cent, Sauvignon Blanc increase in demand for is up 13.9 per cent and PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM [CRAFT BEER, MANHATTAN, WHISKY]

Bar Maid Corporation 2950 N.W. 22nd Terrace Pompano Beach, FL 33069 (954) 960-1468 www.barmaidwashers.com SIP AND SAVOUR Tim Reed Manessy, sommelier at Montecito restaurant in Toronto, pours a glass in the brasserie section of the Entertainment District hotspot NOW AVAILABLE IN CANADA

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CL60 Workstation

RIPE FOR THE TASTING Janina Huhn, global ambassador for the wines of Germany, helps herself to a barrel sample

Riesling is up 8.2 per cent. from Burlington, Mass. DID YOU KNOW? But those aren’t the It allows wines to be The Wines of Germany asso- only growing varietals. served without opening ciation is leading its 4th Annual “Malbec is huge,” says the bottle — instead a 31 Days of German Riesling Janaka Welihinda, guest thin needle is used to initiative (31daysgermanriesling. services manager at Reds pierce the cork before ca), celebrating wines from the Complete Vegetable Prep Midtown in Toronto. wine-destroying oxy- country that is touted to be the Unit for High Productivity “It offers a great price/ gen is replaced with number-1 producer of Riesling in the world. The idea is to quality balance, and inert argon gas; the introduce the wines to Canadian California [wine] — cork re-seals when the restaurants for four weeks in especially the Cabernet needle is removed. July or August, offering custom- — is also big. Pinot “We can offer a glass ers — and restaurant staff — Grigio is the big white.” from a $200 bottle, and the chance to win a trip In sparkling, Welihinda we charge a standard to Germany. sees a movement from one-fifth of the bottle Includes: CL60 Machine with Champagne to Prosecco. price.” Approximately there’s growth potential 3 Feed Heads and Mashed “If we see a celebration 40 per cent of wine there.” at a table, we’ll just come sales at Montecito are Whatever the wine, Potato Kit over and offer glasses by-the-glass, with prices securing staff buy-in of Prosecco. Customers ranging from $9 to $20, is key. “It’s important love that,” he says. and the most expensive that the staff knows PLUS And, customers are option is the bestseller. what they are selling,” 16 Disc starting to enjoy their “Our own-label wines notes Reds’ Welihinda. Multi-Cut Pack wine in smaller quanti- from California are “Enthusiasm sells more and ties. More people are not available anywhere wine.” And, so does opting for by-the-glass else, and customers quality. Ergo-Mobile Cart at Reds Midtown, which like the exclusivity. Overall, the connect- with Rotating Pans offers 10 whites and We have a Cabernet ing thread across the bar 10 reds, from $8 to Sauvignon, a Zinfandel scene is a trend towards $15. And, the same can and a Chardonnay,” premium alcohol with be said at the upscale says Bienenstock of the premium ingredients. Montecito in Toronto. favoured wines. Other Operators are stepping Jimson Bienenstock, standouts include Pinot up their game to offer it, GM, has seen a by-the- Noir. “Pinot Grigio is and customers are oblig- watch glass revolution thanks very big. I also see inter- ing by paying higher the to innovations such est in Gruner Veltliner prices for top-notch video as the Coravin system [from Austria], and experiences. l

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THE TRICKLE- DOWN EFFECT Trends from the 30th annual Nightclub & Bar show in Las Vegas translate to actionable ideas for Canadian bartenders

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFFREY W. STEWART

he 30th annual Nightclub & Bar “We are seeing some brewers using apple Convention and Trade Show celebrat- in beer as a crossover beverage to play mean- Ted in Las Vegas this spring highlighted ingfully in between traditional beers and growing trends worth noting in Canada, with ciders. Redd’s Apple Ale from Chicago’s more than 700 suppliers and thousands of MillerCoors is just one of these prod- new products for the nearly 40,000 attendees ucts. When it comes to moonshine, apple to check out. F&H gleaned five beverage and pie is not only tradition, it also factors business trends from the show: into appeal and drinkability. Honey has resurged in mead and is gaining traction in FLAVOUR COUNTS whisky and tequila. Whisky lends itself to Apple and honey are being introduced into honey, which complements the flavours of everything this year — from whisky to rye, rye and bourbon.” rum, vodka, moonshine and tequila. “An Meanwhile, mixologists are adding essenc- apple influence is from cider, which is by far es and botanicals to their arsenals to make the fastest-growing beverage segment,” said more complex drinks that stand out. Used Jeff Cioletti, editor-at-large of New York’s for finishing touches, craft bitters add depth Beverage World magazine and author of The and complexity to a drink, while using cilan- Year of Drinking Adventurously, while speak- tro sugar or basil salt to rim the glass of a fine ing at the show. cocktail, for example, boosts its appeal. CRAFT EVERYTHING Craft coffee, craft cocktails, craft bitters, craft beer and even craft ice is proving small artisan producers are gaining credibility. “As baby boomers get older it’s about quality of life and enjoying responsibly,” explains Manuel Barreira, managing director, Global Wine Merchants in Burnaby, B.C. “Today, we see small companies producing quality niche products. Fifteen years ago, these small production companies would not have been able to compete. Today they can, because they offer an experience, not just a product.” Consumers can now learn about the history of the product and the story behind its inception.

EMBRACE RETRO-COOL There’s a re-emergence of the traditional

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ENGAGE TECHNOLOGY Swipely, have released technology, which Technology continues to attract attention. offers business analytics to help operators For example, The Amsterdam, Netherlands- understand their customers, and social cus- based Heineken’s BrewLock Draft Technology tomer-relationship-management apps such is a new keg, which preserves freshness and as Glistrr are gaining popularity. Meanwhile, can be used to ship product globally with geo-fencing — which tracks consumer move- a smaller carbon footprint than tradition- ments within a virtually defined geographic al kegs. Alternatively, Charlottetown-based area — is also on the radar, although most Smartbrew introduced its turnkey brewery/ social-media companies aren’t yet ready to brew pub solution — it fits an entire micro- roll it out to bar or restaurant settings. l brewery into a 100-sq.-ft. area. This leasable solution comes complete with technical sup- Jeffrey W. Stewart is associate dean of port and guidance for operators, regardless of Hospitality at Niagara College Canada in brewing skill level. Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. His 30-year beverages your grandfather drank. career has included work at F&B operations, Moonshine, bitters, cider, mead, even old- RAMP UP SOCIAL MEDIA research, teaching, curriculum development as fashioned ginger ale are back. This trend is Bar operators need to maintain their social- well as consulting for hotels, restaurants, food emerging from a maturing generation with a media reputation. New apps are helping them manufactur- renewed interest in quality, as well as a newer extend their reach and enhance their market ers, hospi- generation looking for retro-cool beverages. intelligence. For example, selfie and Twitter tals, higher “Consumer segments are looking for rede- contests can help operators build content at education signs and reinvigoration of proven tradi- a very low cost. and correc- tional concepts,” affirms Grant MacPherson, In that same vein, big data continues to tional facilities a renowned chef and F&B consultant at Las be an important theme. Many new upstart domestically Vegas-based Scotch Myst. companies, such as Providence, R.I.-based and abroad.

YOUR HOSPITALITY BUILDING PARTNER Montecito Restaurant 416.755.2505 ext. 22 ESPRESSO] PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [PREPARING MackayWong Strategic Design bltconstruction.com Toronto - Vancouver

Photography: David Whittaker EQUIPMENT

STANDING THE TEST OF TIME Durable blenders and juicers are revving up thanks to health-conscious consumers BY DENISE DEVEAU

veryone loves smoothies and fresh juices, so it comes as no surprise that Ea growing number of operators are investing in blenders and juicers. Whether visiting a bar, restaurant, juice or breakfast haunt, the quest for healthy drink options is ongoing. That’s why Jessica Risi opened Raw Chemist Juice Bar in Toronto in July 2014. “The goal was to provide really nutritious options for smoothies and cold- pressed juices,” she says. Given the growing demand for fresh smoothie options, she invested in one of the most powerful industrial-grade blenders that fit her budget. She looked at the Cleveland-based Vitamix and Orem, Utah- based Blendtec. Ultimately, she purchased two Blendtec Stealth blenders for $1,200 and $1,400. The price includes a cover to block the noise. Risi also chose an optional acces- sory called the Rapid Rinse Station, a small

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [PREPARING ESPRESSO] PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [PREPARING countertop system, which feeds hot water

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juice with a very vibrant blenders are a mainstay colour,” Risi says. in its 131 franchise loca- But blenders aren’t tions across the country just for specialty shops. for meeting the daily Martin Proulx, director need for fruit cocktails R&D and purchasing and smoothies. director of the Cora Cora’s fruit cocktails Franchise Group Inc. in have been favoured for Ste-Thérèse, Que., says more than 25 years, and

KITTING OUT THE KITCHEN John Placko often works with blenders. The specialist in molecular gastronomy, and culinary director at Toronto’s Modern Culinary Academy, offers his take on what every kitchen should include to meet its blending needs:

• A basic blender that’s durable and dependable. “I use a Vitamix [from Cleveland] at home that has lasted for 10 years. I’ve also heard great things about Blendtec [from Utah],” says Placko.

FINDING A FIT The key to Centrifugal juicers feed The most expensive one choosing a blender is finding produce through fast- is made of certified surgi- • Immersion blenders are handy and versatile tools that can one that fits individual needs. help make the cooking process simpler. “They’re great for stick- moving blades. While it cal stainless steel and has U.S.-based Blendtec offers ing into different pots and saucepans to create foam, purée a many options with its Stealth is faster, the blades gener- reverse blade functions. soup, lighten a sauce or emulsify butter,” says Placko. (above, left) and Q (above, ate heat that can deplete However, demand was right) series products, among others nutrients. “That’s fine so high for her bottled • A Thermomix from Wuppertal, Germany-based Vorwerk is if you want to consume juices that Risi invested an asset. “These are extremely fast — at 10,000 revolutions per the product within 30 in a new Goodnature X-1 minute — and run on induction, so they have no belts. They’re into empty jars for quick minutes. [But] a cold- commercial cold-press perfect for grinding spices and coffee beans, chopping herbs cleaning at the touch of press juicer doesn’t have juicer sold out of Buffalo, and things that need temperature control such as ice-cream a button. blades and won’t produce N.Y.; it’s a six-foot free- bases, custards and ganache. They also have a built-in scale,” Choosing a juicer, on heat, so the vitamins standing system, which says Placko. He also notes that Bellini in Rose Park, Australia the other hand, involved and enzymes last 72 costs $25,000. She plans offers a similar product at about one-third of the cost, but it does not have the built-in scale or reverse cycle features. a lot of research. That hours,” Risi explains. Her to expand production to said, from the onset, Risi first purchase was three supply local gyms and • Pacojet food processors from Greensboro, N.C. are ideal wanted a cold-press juicer countertop Angel juic- other establishments. for chopping herbs for sorbets, ice creams, pâtés or mousses. rather than the more ers from South Korea, “Out of all the cold Placko uses them extensively at his new Bar 120 restaurant at conventional and lower which ranged in price presses, it’s really durable Toronto Pearson International Airport, which features molecular cost centrifugal juicer. from $1,250 to $1,750. and gentle and produces gastronomy-inspired cuisine.

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basic blenders used to be enough to get the job done, but that changed when smoothies began to gain popularity, circa 2006. “We went through all kinds of blenders and breakage when we started with smoothies,” Proulx confesses. “We had so much dif- ficulty, because you use frozen fruit, and the motors were burn- ing out.” These days, he sources his blenders from Rougemont, QUICK AND EASY Blendtec’s self- Que.-based A. Lassonde Inc., serve smoothie machine offers more than 150 drink combinations the company that supplies Cora with its fruit and vegetable juices. Lassonde is currently When it comes to juicers, she supplying commercial-grade suggests looking for something MX1100XTXP blenders from that’s “crazy durable,” especially Torrington, Conn.’s Waring (one if it’s being used daily. She cau- base and three jugs per franchise tions that the heat and friction outlet). And, since the blenders can change the flavour of the are at the front of the kitchen, final product, which is why they covers — which are included in work best for citrus fruits. the $1,000 price tag — are used One of Mote’s favourite to muffle the noise. The blend- juicers is the Juicepresso from ing needs at Cora are simple. Memphis, Tenn. It’s a compact, “We have two settings: one for slow, cold-press machine, which smoothies, one for cocktails and costs between $300 and $400. “I that’s it,” Proulx says. use it to make our fresh syrups. Lauren Mote, bar manager for The yield is a bit lower, but you Uva Wine and Cocktail Bar and can take the pulp and run it co-proprietor of Bittered Sling through up to three times, dehy- Extracts in Vancouver, is always drate it and eat it or use it in on the lookout for new blender soups or smoothies. It’s all about technology. These days she has recycling,” she says. two Vitamix Vita-Prep blenders, Another popular item which cost $2,200 apiece, for her in Mote’s kitchen is the commercial kitchen. “The Vita- Thermomix from Wuppertal, Prep is great for fine-blending Germany-based Vorwerk, which specific things like rim salt or costs approximately $2,000. And, NEW 24’’ cinnamon bark, or [for] pulver- since it has a temperature gauge, izing the crap out of fibrous it can be used for everything IMMERSION BLENDER ingredients, like celery, with- from ice cream to soup. “We out the fibres getting wrapped like to call it the super kitchen SMX700E around the blades. I’ve had them machine,” she says. for six years, and they’re still Regardless of whether your going,” she says. She’s also a fan blending and juicing volumes are of Melbourne, Australia-based high or low, there is one constant Breville blenders, immersion in making the right purchasing blenders and juicers. “The cus- decision. “The main thing is tomer service is great, and they finding something that will last are very high-quality products,” for the long haul and stand the adds Mote. test of time,” Mote advises. l dynamicmixers.ca | 1-800-267-7794 | FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PRODUCT SHOWCASE

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SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD: IS IT REALLY POSSIBLE? EXPERTS FROM THIS YEAR’S EAT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL WEREN’T SO SURE

hile “sustainable” is a buzzword in the food is the last ‘wild hunt’ on the planet, and we tend to hunt things to industry, experts participating in Eat Vancouver’s extinction before we stop.” Dr. Daniel Pauly, Ocean Sciences profes- “Taking Stock of Seafood” panel in the spring sor at the University of British Columbia, agreed, pointing out that debated the definition and viability of sustain- management of fisheries in Canada, unlike the U.S., doesn’t include able fisheries. “Consumers have a lot of pas- rebuilding. “Sustainable growth is self-contradictory,” said the pro- Wsion for sustainable seafood,” said Mike McDermid, co-owner of fessor. Traceability is a major issue, too, he said, stating that world Vancouver’s Fish Counter, while also noting that the notion of fishery statistics are incomplete, as 40 per cent of fish sold is illegally

what constitutes a sustainable fishery today may change tomorrow. caught, and 60 per cent of the fish we consume is from developing PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM “There’s been a shift in consumption, but that has a downward countries. “This is an ethical problem — grabbing fish in West Africa pressure through the system.” He explained: “Wild capture fisheries to feed fish on farms for our tables,” Pauly said. —Cinda Chavich

What do you think? Weigh in on the debate. Tweet @foodservicemag, or drop us a message on the Foodservice and Hospitality Facebook page.

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