Issue 181 August 2013

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Back to Contents Page Contents... 4. From the editor… 33. A View from the Group 96. Men and the Art of 159. Motorcycle Girl Racer Heated discussions W Bench Motorcycle Maintenance Strange goings on at about what to wear in A German jaunt A quartet of classic bikes Stonehenge hot weather on a weekend trip to Spa 35. THAT phone call – a 163. Book Review 7. Rider’s Lives parent’s perspective 121. Never too old to lean – or – Riding on two wheels Vs Straight talking from the Dad’s dilema don’t give up Standing your ground man behind the Something exotic to Bike Shed MC 41. The Clever Girls and pep up the retirement Boys’ Club 8. Image of the Month The 3rd IJMS Conference 130. Are we our own worst Barnstorming Britten comes to London enemies? Digging our own grave? 10. Six & the City 68. Juke Box Jury Bringing back Blinky Martin does a little 136. Ask a Policeman investigative journalism The Barton Bike Meet 12. Paddy’s Perspective Chinese charmer 86. Bloodrunner 145. Seriously Super Motard An old Digest favourite The KTM SMT restores 29. The Boy Biker returns to make some Paul’s sense of purpose All fun and games… crucial deliveries

31. Nuts & Bolts It’s all about the engine

Editor Contributors Cartoons Contacts Dave Gurman Tinks, Paddy Tyson, George Smith, Rod Young, Simon Kewer Editorial Assistant editor Ian Dunmore, Nick Lojik, Dave Gurman, Martin Haskell, Dave Gurman Peter Martin Antony Loveless, Neil Waugh, Wyn Edwards, Wizzard, +44 (0) 20 8707 0655 Design Graham Pierce, Paul Browne, Jonathan Boorstein +44 (0) 7948 897093 Simon Gardner Photographs [email protected] Web site Dave Gurman, Paul Blezard, Paddy Tyson, Nick Lojik, Advertising Andy Cadney Martin Haskell, The Busy Bee MCC, Antony Loveless, The opinions and comments of contributors Peter Martin Neil Waugh, Wyn Edwards, Hal, the FMMC, within this magazine do not necessarily reflect +44 (0) 7973 818579 Graham Pierce, Paul Browne the opinions of the editor. [email protected]

2 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 3 his dripping red face before turning to me and saying, “Surely that’s not safe?” From the editor... “Well” I replied, “I guess It’s been the same thing have shrunk into a protective by the grace of your god, it’s that’s a matter of opinion.” every summer for as long kernel just thinking about it) not going to happen to you; So, as all the Armour Nazis as I can remember but the and it takes forever to heal and I can entirely understand seem to have absolutely din seems to be getting because it needs air to get where you’re coming from. no qualms about sharing exponentially louder year on better but you have to keep What I don’t understand is their opinion, here’s mine: year; in fact sometimes I get the wounds covered to keep why the same people are as far as I am concerned the distinct impression that infection out and stop them so often the first to point the most important thing a large chunk of the Internet sticking to your clothes… out the danger of riding when I’m riding a bike is spending every minute Ultimately though in ‘unsuitably dressed’ and to is that I am comfortable it isn’t wasting playing 99% of cases that’s all it is – post photographs of other and at ease. I struggle to pointless social media very painful. Skin might well motorcyclists with horrific correct protection factor advanced motorcyclist, who envisage a situation whereby games or spreading random be the largest organ in the injuries to their skin? I can’t sunscreen (well you can’t be has internalised just about riding without protective unsubstantiated bullshit, tut- body (or should that be on help thinking how they would too careful with your skin), everything there is to know gear would actually cause tutting about one thing or the body?) but by the same feel if they were constantly you could hardly blame him if about safe riding but just somebody to have an another, whether it’s riding a token that means there’s a lot assaulted by pictures of when he got off of his bike, he doesn’t happen to subscribe accident, whereas it’s not bike in the first place, riding it of it and it’s spread all over suitably dressed but stone turned and raised his middle to the prevailing view of what difficult to imagine how heat too fast, or – apparently worst so unless someone boils you dead motorcyclists; broken digit to all the haters. OK, say constitutes a minimum level exhaustion and dehydration of all in the current climate (i.e in oil (and you really should bodies laying in pools of dark he continues to ride the same of protection before you can might have a profound effect heatwave hot) – riding while try to avoid people who are fluid with limbs in horrifically way throughout the summer ride a bike? on a rider’s abilities. inappropriately dressed! likely to do that sort of thing) unnatural positions, posted whenever the weather A few weeks ago as I’m much too lazy to try It’s easy to understand you’re unlikely to destroy all by well meaning non-bikers dictates (and he continues the wife and I fought our to organise a major web why someone who has of it at once. Your internals bemoaning the terrible to wear sunscreen) and he way through heavy traffic campaign but it would be never thrown a leg over however, are another thing dangers that we all face? still doesn’t get creamed on our way home after interesting to see what would a bike might get vexed altogether; if you should OK let me run a scenario by marauding motorists; a lovely afternoon spent happen if I could persuade about anyone daring to pay be unfortunate enough to by you: at the height of the when he finally covers his wandering around the lake masses of people to point at such scant regard to such find yourself hitting a solid heatwave I was reading half a suntanned limbs with a and (imported) Roman ruins motorcyclists and laugh at outrageous danger; but the object at any sort of serious dozen comments a day from leather jacket in the early in Virginia Water, we pulled them for being so ridiculous overwhelming majority of speed, if the impact doesn’t apoplectic motorcyclists who Autumn is he allowed to feel up at a set of traffic lights whenever they saw them the real ‘Armour Nazis’ are kill you outright, the sudden had been appalled to witness a little bit smug? and as we were facing a wearing full leathers in motorcyclists themselves, deceleration is likely to an absolute idiot/cretin/ Obviously I know the long sequence before we’d scorching heat because in my which always makes me rupture one or more of the tosser/dickhead* riding his conventional answer or I get to go again I killed the experience there’s nothing wonder if they really organs that you rely on to R1/Blade/Gixxer/Ninja* on the wouldn’t be asking: he’s Burgervan’s engine because like a bit of peer pressure to understand the potential keep body and soul together M1/M2/M3/M4567* in shorts, dead lucky but that doesn’t the temperature gauge was prevent people making up hazards they face every – and if that organ happens trainers and a t-shirt (*delete detract in any way from the showing a worrying four bars. their own minds. time they take a bike onto a to be your brain, it won’t as appropriate). But let’s take hopelessness of his decision A GS1200 pulled up alongside Enjoy your summer public road? matter if you’ve got over a look at this; let’s say this making. Which is all very with a pilot in full leathers. He wearing whatever suits you So do all you belt and five hundred quid’s worth of supposedly brainless chap is well and I know that our in- looked at us in that superior best and why don’t you try braces and back protector Arai protecting it, it’ll still be actually a very capable rider house PC would be the first way that most ‘real bikers’ making an effort to leave wearers (that’s ATGATT for spread across the inside of and he manages to arrive at to endorse that position, but look at a couple riding a others people to do exactly the the sake of our American your skull. his destination without any he also said last month that scooter in light clothing same in their own sweet way. cousins) honestly believe that I hope I haven’t upset dramas (as most of us usually the police only deal with and – in the pillion’s case – Dave Gurman you are safe as long as you’ve anyone by being so graphic do in spite of the madness collisions because there is flip-flops. I’m sure he would got all the correct safety kit about the potential dangers that we see all around us no such thing as an accident have liked to have offered on? Road rash is a terrible we all face, I know that on the average motorway – – and if that is the case, then us a sneer but the horrible thing indeed, I learnt most of many of you prefer not to check out Dermot’s exchange surely luck doesn’t really truth was he couldn’t quite what there is to know about talk about that sort of thing with PC Graham below last come into it. Couldn’t the man pull it off because his face Catch Dave Sunday between it nearly forty years ago: because with the help of a month’s column!), providing with the deep suntan and the was melting. Wendy, who’s a 11pm and midnight (BST) on it smarts like hell (my nuts little advanced training and he remembered to use the sportsbike be an experienced, nurse incidentally, looked at www.bikerfm.co.uk

4 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 5 Riders’ Lives

What was your hairiest What do you think is the moment on a bike? worst thing about Riding smack into the back of a motorcycling? reversing-while-lane-changing Obviously the risk of pain, white van in Feb is near the top damage or death is pretty crap of that list, but most memorable and I’m glad to have slowed was a deep, long 80mph slide down in recent years, migrating which then found traction and to less powerful bikes and threw me out of the seat at smoother riding, but the daily Clearways at Brand Hatch on my drudgery of the UK weather is Superduke R a couple of years also pretty high up on my biking ago. I have no idea how I stayed shit-list. on or why I didn’t run into the Name an improvement Name: Anthony “AKA Dutch” gravel, but it was more down to you’d like to see for the next van Someren the bike than any skill on my part. generation? It did make me laugh out loud I’d like to see the mainstream What was your first though – that survival laugh UK bike press get away from motorcycling experience? you get after you do something being so nerdy and talk Around the age of 15 my older really stupid and survive. mates put me on a Suzuki PE250. more about people and the I opened up the throttle and the What was your most lifestyle. They seem to be split bike just flipped me onto my memorable ride? between an obsession with back, quite possibly without The Distinguished Gentleman’s speed through tiny upgrades moving a single inch forward. ride last September where on irrelevant machines and I thought they were gonna be 70 café racers and brat/street gadgets for touring/adventure pretty angry and I was very customs were ridden by riders bikes. The younger generation worried about the bike, but they in suits & ties through London, can’t afford them and couldn’t just laughed themselves hoarse. from Camden to the Ship Inn give a monkey’s. They just want in Wandsworth. It was quite a a cool ride – like we did when What is your current bike? scene, although being at the we were 17 – and they have Having just had my 1983 R100 front (and without any mirrors) limited budget. No wonder café racer written-off, with the I saw less of it than anyone else. mainstream biking is losing a assistance of white-van-man, whole generation of youth. (angry & gutted) I still have a What would be the ideal How would you like to be Ducati Paul Smart 1000LE and soundtrack to the above? remembered? the daily loan of my wife’s Ducati London Calling on a loop. As one of a growing group of Sport Classic 1000 Biposto. riders who want to see biking What do you think is the best pulled-back into being about What bike would you most thing about motorcycling? people, lifestyle and fun – like to ride/own? It’s an even split between something entertaining for It would be a custom build, the feeling of a really smooth everyone to enjoy – not a high- either a Walt Siegel style Ducati transition from curve to curve performance automotive niche café racer with a Hypermotard during the rush of a fast ride, for deep-pocketed middle- 1100DS engine, or I’d get Spirit with the feeling of camaraderie aged men whose kids have left of the Seventies to build the between mates when the riding home. Ditch that R1/Panigale/ perfect weather-proof and day is done. Both are needed GSXR and buy something with bulletproof trellis-framed café to complete the experience of character and a soul. racer around a KTM V-twin. being a bike rider.

6 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 7 ©Paul Nicholas Blezard

8 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 9 Wednesday It didn’t help that my weather as thunderstorms are For several months now, Dad had been telling me that forecast for later that day. A I’ve been asking Hornet Boy petrol goes off within weeks bit more investigation on the to get Blinky, my R6 out of the and turns to varnish-like goo inter-web and an interesting shed for me. I haven’t ridden it and if that happened, it’s little fact appears; someone Six and the City since September last year! game over, you have to clean is asking the same question I can’t get it out myself as it it all out. I sincerely hoped that as me, however their bike has means bumping it up over the that would not be the case for only been stored for a month lip of the shed and then down my R6, that it would have been and this time one person has a few steps – way too much for spared this due to some weird, responded to say that the my puny legs. freak-of-nature time chrysalis battery probably just doesn’t So today, I’m home from in which my petrol will have have enough oomph to turn work and I mention to HB that I remained as fresh as the day it over, so try jumping it off will be working in our Reading it had been pumped…10 the car. office tomorrow. months ago… and it hasn’t Aha! “How are you getting been sitting in temperatures I collar HB and tell there?” over 30°C. him of this possible new Er, car, ‘cos I can’t get So, back on with the trickle development. there on the (currently still charger and let’s see what “Let’s try it one more time functioning) DT. happens. before we dig out the jump “Why don’t you take the leads.” R6?” Thursday Cough. Cough. Backfire. Because it’s still in the shed I crawl in from work taking Splutter. Cough. Backfire. and it won’t be roadworthy by two and a half hours to do 35 Nearly. tomorrow morning and to be miles and look expectantly at And as the thunderheads honest I don’t even know I will HB. rolled in over our heads, like still be able to ride it. “Nope, can’t get the bike to a scene from Mary Shelley’s “I’ll get it out the shed now, start. I flattened the battery book, the R6 barked in to life. and we can have a look.” trying.” “Keep it running, I’ll take A bit of rearranging of With a familiar sinking it out for a blast for you.” HB garden furniture and home- feeling in my stomach, I turn to legged it into the house for his brew beer kegs and 10 the power of Google to see if bike kit. minutes later, one very dusty there is anything we can do. He took the R6 out for looking bike is on the patio. All indications are that at fresh fuel and a blast down I had heard a bit of a wet the least the plugs will need to the A3 to literally blow the ‘prrrrrp’ sound as HB tried to come out and the cylinders will cobwebs off (yes, we pumped turn it over. Even though it need cleaning. This is too big a the tyres up and oiled the had been on a trickle charger, job for me to contemplate as chain first). I think the connection had we don’t have the right tools Roaring back up our road fallen off ‘cos the battery was for a start. 45 minutes later he handed as dead as road kill. Recovery to Russell her back to me, “Your turn Now, two months ago, Motors? now.” Blinky had come out of the Back on the trickle charger And I was back out on shed as we had had to move – at least it can have a charged Blinky before the heavens a load of stuff in and she had battery. opened, racing off for the first started fine and had run for a time in ten months. few minutes. However, I was Friday Hello speed, hello instant beginning to worry ‘cos I didn’t No change. acceleration, hello top end put any stabiliser in the petrol howl and hello shit-eating or turn it off before storing it. I Saturday grin… I’ve missed you… didn’t know how long it would It’s a beautiful bike-riding be in storage for. day but it’s the last of the good

10 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 11 Paddy’s Perspective A Pan Asian Pan Euro t would be easy to start a However, the last few years Output of Chinese review of a Chinese bike have seen huge upheavals in motorcycle production fell Iwith some disparaging the Chinese motorcycle industry through 2012 to below 2 remark about a funny name, and it’s because of this that I million units a month (still an or the existence of a poorly believe the WK650 should be almost unbelievable figure) executed copy of a component seen as a pivotal model. Huge and much of it was due part, but it would be rather numbers of manufacturers have to legislation that banned pointless. No-one with even gone bust in China recently, petrol driven motorcycles in the slightest foresight or and only those who took the over 200 major cities. Electric understanding has failed to decision to invest in R&D are technology and bikes are acknowledge that Chinese now looking strong. Many being encouraged and there bikes are improving in quality companies appeared from are now an estimated 130 on a daily basis. And it would nowhere, cloned a Japanese million e-bikes being used on be someone with their head 125 badly, cared little for quality, China’s road network. Even in well and truly buried who offered no spares or warranty areas where petrol machines would ignore the parallels back-up and chased a quick haven’t been banned, e-bikes with the arrival of Japanese in buck, but then the domestic are becoming the norm, as the 1960s. Chinese market collapsed. I witnessed in Tibet a couple

12 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 13 of months ago. In 2011 alone, it’s hard to pretend that the speeds. That bodywork may the Chinese exported 90,000 WK650TR doesn’t bear more rub your knees but it will also e-bikes (cycle and scooter) to than a passing resemblance provide great protection from the Netherlands. to Honda’s über-tourer, the the weather and enable all-day Exports overseas have ST1300 Pan European. Indeed cruising. Because everything been affected by a rash of they’ve honoured the Pan to has been unashamedly importers who followed the such a degree that they’ve even copied, the TR (no doubt same ‘get rich quick’ model adopted the same footpeg designating TOUR as opposed and those manufacturers who to fairing measurement that to the NK or NAKED model) weren’t prepared to vet their means those who are long has absolutely brilliant distributors are the ones who’ve in thigh, have their knees fairing-mounted mirrors. suffered most. In essence, forced uncomfortably against They are large, easy to adjust Chinese companies who the bodywork. But there I go, and completely vibration free. chose to invest in research, to starting off by finding fault. I only wish that the pillion develop a distribution network Positively, this is a footpegs were lower, because slowly and consider the range medium weight tourer that carrying a pillion highlights a of machines they offer, are now accommodates 2 comfortably, strange oversight; the rider is reaping rewards. is incredibly stable in almost all presented with a great view That’s not to say they are scenarios and cruises happily of the pillion’s knees and not a averse to a bit of cloning and at and above motorway lot else.

14 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 15 16 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 17 Conscious that white lines seemed to be traversed with alacrity, I decided on a few long fast sweeping corners with good visibility so I could ride the whole curve on the cats eyes and central markers and the bike was completely unaffected. Although almost all this 650 twin is made is China, the suspension is not. It’s quality German KYB kit, from Düsseldorf and it shows. This Chinese bike manufacturer is one that does seem to be going the extra mile, caring about the end product and acknowledging that perhaps some components are best sourced in Europe. Other bits include the Marelli injection in kph and all speeds above Generally the clocks are only work when the ignition system. 200kph were in red to match very pleasing to sit behind is switched on, which isn’t Working in tandem with the rev counter (10,500rpm), and at night the display glows ideal as you have to leave the the suspension is of course which is novel. One of the blue. The lights themselves are key in. The tail-light and the the tyres and the fact that warning lights looked like it adequate, one bulb on dip and indicators (flush in the mirrors these are CST may concern should be a side-light warning another which supplements at the front) are also LEDs and you, but I don’t think it should. light (should such a thing be for full-beam. The sidelight work well. These are Chinese and CST necessary), but was in fact to is a row of LEDs beneath the The simplicity offered by (Cheng Shin Tire) has come a indicate the sidestand was headlight which you could the light switch is carried over very long way from the days Riding ergonomics are to be made. Bizarrely, the down. Given the existence of use as daytime running light to many parts of the bike: the when they appeared to make close to ideal and the high ‘cast’ naked model is equipped a sidestand cut-out switch, should you choose, as this frame is all steel, as is the braced tyres out of teflon. They now individual ‘bars fall perfectly with a trip meter, but its this is a little superfluous, so bike still has a light switch! and rather ugly swinging employ 20,000 people at to hand (if you’ll excuse the whole instrument display is perhaps it is again because I Imagine that, a manufacturer arm; there’s no ABS and the the factory, are the largest pun). The levers are a prime quite different. The TR gets was using a pre-production that trusts you to turn on your suspension is only adjustable bicycle tyre manufacturer example of the attention to a wonderfully traditional machine and the light may own lights. There is of course at the rear. It is however, very in the world and export to detail that is now going into analogue style speedo and be planned for some other still no compulsory headlight good suspension for what is, 150 different countries, be some Chinese bikes, as they rev counter, an 8-bar digi fuel function in a different part of use in the UK. The switchgear let’s not forget, a budget bike. that car, moto, ATV or forklift are span adjustable and feel gauge and warning lights the world. I’d quite like it to itself is perfectly pleasant to The stability and planted feel tyres. They certainly made lovely, especially the cable stacked on either side of be a low-fuel warning light as use and seems to be made that is apparent immediately me feel comfortable enough operated clutch, but the lack of the unit. I was using a pre- being EFI, there’s no reserve out of good quality plastic, you’re on the move, only really to find out what maximum a trip meter demonstrates that production model so the tap and the tank is only but as with many machines, gets upset on fast corners if lean angle is. If it interests there are still improvements speedometer was reading 17.5 litres. the hazard warning lights there’s a bump or a depression. you, the footpegs are first

18 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 19 20 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 21 good for a solo trip, and you could always strap something on the seat, but be warned – rather like with a pillion’s knees, something strapped across the seat and the top of the panniers, will obscure the rearward view in the mirrors. The closing mechanism on the panniers isn’t very sophisticated and I can’t vouch for how weatherproof they are as I didn’t experience persistent rain in the 2,300kms I rode, but down, because the stubby be so bold as to say it’s better. they do suffer the usual side- exhaust end can is so neatly Certainly it doesn’t vibrate opening luggage problems; tucked away. nearly as much and is much awkward to load and a styled The brakes are also more fun to ride, but the shape. I understand there will Chinese, no name brand, general finish doesn’t match soon be a factory inner bag though they do have more the Honda. Then again, it may option, which will make them than a passing resemblance do soon, such is the speed of much more convenient as the to twin pot Nissin calipers. development at the factory, boxes are bolted on and not and although there’s a little The very first time you let the I think the WK brand in There are two of them up front, and it is £3,400 cheaper. That’s easy to remove. more urgency from 5-7,000 clutch out in first, you may the UK is a little confusing, as gripping 320mm wavy discs quite a saving. But what of the engine rpm above that there’s really think it’s all a bit lumpy, but the engine cases clearly say and they are as good as the In fact that’s the cost of and how does it perform? just an increase in noise that’s more the nature of a CF Moto and as it’s one of the brakes on any middleweight a very grand tour of Europe Well it’s a well over-square as everything becomes a parallel twin and you soon companies in China which is on the market. In association even if you didn’t want to 650cc parallel twin making bit more frantic. Six grand don’t notice, especially as you forging ahead with its own with the 240mm disc on the pack a tent. The side-opening just shy of 70hp at the crank equates to a very comfortable build the revs. identity, I think they probably back, they offer plenty of luggage offers 60litres of if pushed to 8,500rpm. I 75mph, which for this type of And you may wonder if will soon insist on consistency feel and the CSTs offer plenty space, which is certainly found the power very linear machine, means you can very it’s their own engine. Well the of branding. Founded in 1989, of bite. The only slightly easily just roll off and on in parent company, CF Moto, the company is better known concerning element, is the way the top, sixth gear. This twin certainly build it but no, it’s for quads and ATVs and 25% that the cast handlebars seem doesn’t begin to get snatchy rather obviously modelled of their workforce is involved to flex under extremely heavy until you are below 2,500 rpm on Kawasaki’s very successful in research and development. braking… and even pootling through a ER6. The gear shift has quite So far they have developed Tearing around is not what village in what most would a long throw, but upshifts are 98 models of vehicle and 51 this bike is for though. It’s a class as too high a gear, there smooth and always engage different engines. They even tourer, or a daily commuter and was only a little transmission well. Downshifts however, make powerboat engines, all it’s capable of both with ease. lash, most of that caused by a especially when you may be at their 1.6 million sq. ft. high- It is clearly a direct competitor chain I should have adjusted. going down a few at a junction, tech manufacturing facilities to the Honda Deauville, with The ECU, another European seem to be affected by in Hangzhou, knocking out its built in luggage and handy part, certainly seems to be oil temperature, getting a cool 800,000 engines and glove-boxes up front, one of very well mapped and the much better as the 600,000 complete machines which is lockable. I may even fuelling is smooth throughout. temperature rises. every year, which they now

22 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 23 24 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 25 sell in 60 countries. All of which up. Perhaps I should have this bike. It’s in the nature are reasons why I think this carried a can and run it dry of the Chinese motorcycle compact 650 will do very well in the interest of dismissing industry that has survived that and has a future. conjecture, but I found it first crazy period of growth. Another reason is that easier to use my receipts and Only last month there was the TR is retailing in the UK a calculator. a large conference in China for £5,195 and the NK only If it had a centre-stand where motorcycle industry £4,195. If you were planning I’d have got more fuel in, but professionals from all over to keep it for 3 or 4 years, that’s alas that’s another omission. the world were invited to what many other machines The shape of the ER6 inspired discuss developments, offer can lose in depreciation. stainless steel exhaust system advice and criticism of their Fuel economy that I precludes one, which is a real products and how the whole managed in real and varied shame on a practical tourer. bike industry in China should use, some of it two-up and I would have got around to proceed. That’s a lot of bother even a bit on forestry tracks, adjusting and lubing the to go to if you just want to was 53.8mpg. That should chain too if there been one! keep cloning other machines. equate to almost 200 miles Whether this bike will from a tank, but I never got hold together after thirty Paddy Tyson close to that, because the fuel thousand miles is yet to be gauge was always on its last proved of course. www.wkbikes.com bar by 120 and as there’s no I am in no doubt that CF reserve and no flashing light, I Moto will take every criticism didn’t trust it and always filled on board and keep developing

26 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 27 IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT BIKES... The Boy Biker All fun and risk, my limited experience games… told me it was safe to make ecently I have been the move, and my danger trying desperately to receptors kicked in in time to Rride in a manner that get me back into lane in a safe doesn’t attract unwanted position. police attention, that doesn’t Pah! What does mother I daren’t ponder life and the cause car drivers to get angry know? Un-developed danger universe as I may on another or to get scared, and that centre my arse. Four more ride, everything is fine tuned stands me in with a chance of similar overtakes later and I’m for survival. passing my practical test! It’s getting big headed. “Fuck me I I know this seems not that I run unsafely. Safety must have a sixth sense today,” moronic. I’m still a pipsqueak is always top priority, I don’t I utter under my lid, feeling with limited experience and it try to scare car drivers and it’s like nothing can take me by can all go so wrong so quickly not often that I feel like having surprise and I can predict on a bike. I know from past a good ol’ chinwag with her the future with split second collisions that pride comes The Carin’ Sharin’ Chronicles majesty’s finest. It just seems accuracy. I can see car drivers before a fall. Just when you to happen before I know it! making mistakes before they think you’re on top of it all By Dave Gurman (ISBN978-0-9560863-0-3) Me ol’ mother has always do; I squeeze the brakes for some greater force finds a way to remind you just how SeeWhat!? what Nobody these took the Amazon hint and bought reviewers you a copy for said that in the brain of no apparent reason, only to Christmas? Have you considered splashing out six quid of your teenagers, particularly males, have a pedestrian step out. fragile and disposable a life hadown hard to earned?say Perhaps these reviews from Amazon will the decision making centre I shave off a few mph before is, just how badly it hurts and help to make up your mind: isn’t fully formed. As cavemen even seeing the police car exactly how much there still is ★★★★★ this meant we made faster and I speed up at green to learn. Gurman is very good, and in a slightly alternative way with a ‘fight or flight’ decisions than lights before they start Towards the end of this beautiful slant, an excellent writer." our elders, sometimes giving flashing orange. ‘King of the Road’ ride, I hear ★★★★★ us the edge. Fast-forward a I feel on top of the world, a slight change in engine "His very coherent arguments… will often have you grinning from ear- few thousand years, and with my brain is firing on all sound, louder and rattlier than to-ear; or nodding your head in agreement – at what is plainly quite usual, the power in low revs obvious only you'd never thought about things that way before." all our modern distractions, cylinders and it feels as if they an under developed decision have all just had a big bore kit is atrocious and once they ★★★★ slowly climb higher the power "I regard his book as a gem to be enjoyed by all and sundry, bikers and non bikers alike." centre makes us total liabilities fitted, the air filter has been is better than usual. Strange ★★★★★ on the road. washed and I’m even using "This book gets you to consider aspects of life in a way that you may not have done before." On a familiar road (I never branded oil! Healthy body, this... I pull in back home and ★★★★ get silly on foreign ground) I healthy brain! give the bike a visual once "Speaking as a female rider of a certain age, it's great that his writing has a broad appeal." spot a chance, our lane is slow Information is being over, and spot the problem. I ★★★★★ moving and cars are few and sucked in at a rapid rate, reach out with a hand gloved "Dave's "Carin'" view on life is very enlightening in these miserable times." far between on the opposite it’s being compressed with in stupidly thin gents’ leather ★★★★★ The side, quick check over my experience and ignited by and shake the exhaust to see if "It's honest, unpretentious, not ostentatious and a damn good read." perfect shoulder and I’m out, change youthful quick reactions. The I was right. ★★★★★ Bikers Read down, give it some welly and end result is a cacophony of Yes it’s loose, it is also "The illustrations are also very well done." tear past a few cars. A car sins, me at my peak; faster, fucking hot! Maybe there ★★★★★ approaches at a fair old lick, I smoother, lower in the corner, is some sense in this risk "Buy it, read it and, like me, you'll be desperate for volume 2 to come out." ONLY decide that that was enough making safe but progressive assessment centre stuff after Available from the Digest web site or send a cheque (for £5.99 + £1.50 p&p) to: £5.99! progress, slow right down decisions and analysing other all! Digest Publishing, PO Box 240, Huddersfield, HD9 9DQ to the speed of my lane and road users in a split second. Keep having fun and nod sit in behind a flash motor to I’m enjoying what I’m doing back at me once in a while! allow free movement in the but I daren’t smile as this opposite lane. I measured the distracts valuable brain cells, Party On

28 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 29 Nuts & Bolts s I’ve said any number stroke cycle, so called because The piston squeezes all of times elsewhere, the piston travels up and down of the mixture into a small AI think the most the bore four times for each area at the top of the cylinder important part of a bike is the explosion of power. The first known as the combustion engine. So how does it work? stage of the cycle is called chamber, and just before it Well you put some fuel in the induction: as the piston, which reaches its apex the spark tank, press the button on the is connected to the crankshaft plug, which protrudes into the right hand bar that isn’t the turning below it, travels down chamber, creates a powerful light switch and it goes brmm, the bore, it creates a vacuum electrical spark that ignites the brmm, brmm. If you’re unlucky, that sucks the air and fuel compressed mixture causing you might have to prod away mixture, which has been a controlled explosion in at a kickstart and maybe even created by the carburettor or the form of incredibly rapid tickle your carbs, but none of fuel injection system, into the burning. The burning gases this really tells us what is going cylinder. This mixture enters by get extremely hot very quickly on inside the magic steel box way of the inlet valve or valves and therefore increase in of power itself. (there may be one or more of volume rapidly, which causes Let’s consider the single these in each cylinder). The immense pressure driving the cylinder engine that you’re valve is opened in a timely piston back down the bore likely to get in a 125 (or an manner by the camshaft, very rapidly. even larger capacity trail bike). which is a rotating shaft with This is the moment we You’ll probably be aware that a number of teardrop shaped have all been waiting for, the your bike has either 1, 2, 3, 4 lobes; and as the shaft rotates, power stroke, the big one that or even 6 cylinders; essentially the pointy part of the teardrop actually produces the oomph each cylinder is an individual pushes the valve open. that spins the crankshaft, engine even though it shares Once the piston has which in turn is connected certain components with the reached the bottom of the to your back wheel via the others. An engine cylinder is bore, the induction stroke is gearbox/clutch and a chain, exactly what it says, a circular complete and the piston begins belt or drive shaft. cylinder inside which a piston to rise back up the cylinder. The final stroke, the goes up and down. The piston This is called the compression exhaust stroke, is the clean fits inside the cylinder very stroke. The inlet valve has up bit where the piston snugly due to several rings been tightly closed by a strong expels all the burnt gases fitted into grooves cut into spring so the rising piston, from the cylinder, so that the CLICK TO WEBSITE its circumference, these are which is firmly sealed against engine can begin a new cycle. called piston rings and they the sides of the cylinder bore As the piston travels back just search for your model take up the gap between the by the piston rings, squashes up the bore, the camshaft of bike you will be surprised piston and the internal face the air and fuel mixture, which opens the exhaust valve and how many parts we have of the cylinder or bore as it is raises its temperature (in line the spent gases are pushed also known. with Boyle’s Law of physics) out through it, exiting into Nowadays most engines making the concoction the atmosphere via your work on what we call the four- increasingly explosive. exhaust system. www.wemoto.com30 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 31 Overland Magazine has teamed up with Kaapstad for expecting to spend most of an unforgettable journey. Ride with us on the ultimate it and brought 1000 back, so South African exploration in the Western Cape, that’s Lommel in Belgium (third A View from the weekend in August) sorted then. widely acclaimed to be the most beautiful region in SA. This My bike was a 48 bhp Guzzi is not a mile munching tour; we’ll really experience the 750 with a max real world landscape and culture of our surroundings. Some days Group W Bench speed of 87mph fully loaded. we’ll taste wine and ride elephants, rather than bikes! For aving and nodding. I who was a vegetarian, which as I’ve recently fitted a 3 Givi box try to do one of these far as I know means someone frame made by Keith and Sue details of exactly what we’ll experience during a full 12 days Wto all bikes of any size, who also eats vegetables in Nock (Nock Electrical) specifically on the ground, visit overlandmag.com/explore shape or hue, but there is one Germany. for the li’Breva (Sue has one) bloke on a Jap multi I pass on I came back with an extra and the carrying capacity over the way to work most days who inch on my waistline. One of the Hepco and Becker boxes never responds. the many things I noticed again is immense. The quality of the So I stopped acknowledging was that the quality of the frame is far better as well, hand him. Then a few days ago I forgot bier encouraged you to drink welded (by Sue) and plastic myself and waved to him, next more slowly to appreciate it coated with stainless fittings. The day he gave me a huge ‘how dare better. And of course it doesn’t total package was only shown you’ glare and has been doing so affect your stomach or head next wanting when we accidentally for a week. Don’t get it, I know I morning. strayed onto an autobahn, ride a superior machine but what For those of you who are and that was probably more he has between his legs will reluctant to travel abroad or my dislike of such things than show my lil’Breva a clean pair of feel your machine isn’t big the bike and anyway, as I was heels any day. Perhaps he feels I enough, then Germany is an leading I un strayed off it at the am below his consideration, in excellent starting point. English earliest opportunity and all was which case I feel sorry for him, is commonly spoken, especially well again. or perhaps he just hates people if you try some Deutsche first This was my first European in general and in that case why with simple phrases such as trip leading and whilst the hasn’t he bought a 4X4? Second danke schön (thank you) and ein Garmin sat nav was fine 99% unforgettable hand ones are quite cheap these kleines Bitburg bitte (one small of the time, there was a closed — adj : impossible to forget; highly memorable days. Bitburg please). roundabout in Holland about I’ve just come back from a very Oh and never try to chat up 25 miles from the Hook which enjoyable 7 days in Germany. the girls, they won’t understand it couldn’t work around, so as I know that France has got what you are trying to do and my Philips European Atlas was very expensive but Germany will have already made up their useless in this situation we just proved to be cheaper than the mind anyway. And do not be too headed for the autobahn via UK and far better in the bier surprised when a German lass Rotterdam and then the Hook. and food department. Fags are apologises for her poor French Very blowy and very wet but we cheaper too. to you in English, just accept she got there. We stayed at an old disused speaks all three languages better A 2013 Philips European railway station, Café Bistro Alter than you do. And all of this in a Atlas is presently for sale cheap, Bahnhof Pfalzfeld (Google bar in Bonn called the Babel Fish. I am going to buy proper maps it), about 50 miles south east Don’t drink large biers either, again in future. of Bonn, which is now a pub, it normally marks you out as a And on the way into 9th Feb 2014 restaurant and campsite, with tourist and the bier tastes better work today I got an almost several old railway coaches in small glasses anyway. imperceptible nod from the full12 days turned into accommodation, And definitely don’t do what bloke on the Jap multi. It may showers etc. The locals drink one of our party did, buy cheap have the bike causing his head BMW ‘F’ series bikes (upgrades available) there which adds to the booze at the supermarket, yes to wobble but I think not. I am ambience. Nothing was too you save money but that is all, invincible. Yee hah. Kaapstad have been riding South Africa much trouble for Christine Melis you only pass this way once so Ride Safe since1998 and our guides are 8 year and a fine time had by all. She enjoy the experience to the hilt. An ancient Guzzisti safari school veterans even catered for one of our group I took €1,450 with me Ian Dunmore

32 £2850 rider WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UKand £1200 for pillions ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 33 THAT phone call – a parent’s perspective had a day off today so I took there now, is there anyone myself, the silver fox (my else with you?” “Yeah, some I750 Honda shadow spirit) workmen, they are putting and my camera to Harewood in speed bumps along here, House where I spent the they helped me get the bike morning taking photographs. off the road”. A moment later I By midday I’d shot around one was in sight of him, he looked hundred frames and figured shaken and stood awkwardly that lunch was overdue. I all around the country, “Are favouring his right leg. I packed my gear back onto the you OK?” I asked, so many parked the car and ran over bike and headed for home. questions came to mind, how to him. A workman in yellow With the bike safely tucked could this have happened? hi-viz was standing with him, up in the garage I was putting Why? “Yeah, but my knees are others were busy with their the various photographic a bit messed up and the bike...” work. Dan was shaking. “I was paraphernalia away, when the “Never mind the bike, so long riding down here and had to phone rang. as you’re OK, that’s all that go through the contra-flow, “Dad” it was my son Daniel, matters”. not sure what happened, but he was in turmoil, his voice In a blur I grabbed my car next thing I know the bike is on betraying a mix of emotions, keys and was out the door. the floor and I was crawling to the pavement.” The workman confirmed what Dan had said, “Looks like his bike slipped on that manhole cover and his side stand clipped that speed bump, good thing he had that first aid kit, we’ve bandaged his knees as best we could” The skid mark and the gouged tarmac of the bump were clearly visible. His bike, once a pristine Yamaha Majesty 400, stood near a wall, its left hand side a maze of scratches, the anguish, anger, and disbelief. Wetherby Road near the front mudguard cracked and “Can you come and get me, school he’d said. How far? broken and various other I’m on the Wetherby Road near Were any cars involved who bits of damage were clear the school, and I’ve come off was there to help him? Panic to see. The main stand was my bike...” started to set in but I knew that twisted into the bodywork My mind was reeling; he’s it wouldn’t help. I called him but ironically the side stand experienced and has ridden on the ‘hands-free’ “I’m nearly was still functional.

34 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 35 Nick and sons Anthony (left) and Daniel (centre)

36 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 37 T2T Flyer2:Layout 1 12/2/12 12:52 Page 1

I thanked the workmen ADVENTURE TRAVEL BOOKS for their help and walked Dan to the car. Once inside his COM BY SAM MANI feelings exploded in a mixture of emotions, tears welled from Into Africa - Under Asian Skies - Distant Suns - and now... anger and pain. I called for a to recovery truck and took him TORTILLAS TOTEMS home to change, as blood was Sam Manicom’s latest travel book takes you on a gripping rollercoaster of a two-wheeled visible on his trousers and then journey across the dramatic landscapes of Mexico, the USA and Canada. on to hospital. His right knee There are canyons, cowboys, idyllic beaches, bears, mountains, Californian vineyards, had taken the worst of the gun-toting policemen with grudges, glaciers, exploding volcanoes, dodgy border crossings impact and it was a bloody and some of the most stunning open roads that a traveller could ever wish to see. mess, and the left one was What do the reviewers say about Sam Manicom’s books? little better. But the doctors at St James’ A&E were great, 'One of the best story tellers of they checked him over and mother’s instinct I suppose. my resolve to ride whenever adventure in the world today.' confirmed no broken bones, Though relieved that the worst I could diminish and I found just a few cuts and bruises hadn’t happened I still got the reason after reason to take the Side Stand Up Radio - USA so we headed home cleaned, expected tirade of bike abuse, car instead. I suppose seeing World of BMW - ‘Inspirational Reading’ patched and strapped. she doesn’t like bikes at all, your son laid on a hospital Motorcycle Monthly - ‘Sam Manicom’s books That evening it all hit me, nothing would ever convince trolley can have that effect are highly recommended’ how could I let this happen. I her otherwise, and that dislike but it’s been about four weeks London Bikers - ‘Compelling Reading’ felt cold inside, my stomach was now only magnified. now, Dan is on the mend but knotted and I felt sick. Why did But my perspective is still on crutches, the internal Moto Guzzi Club - ‘Sam has the gift to describe I ever let him have that bike, I different I suppose, I see it bruising to bone and cartilage people and places!’ should have insisted he learned from Dan’s point of view will take a few more weeks to Honda Trail Bike Riders - ‘Completely engaging’ heal and the bike will soon be BM Riders Club - ‘Superbly entertaining’ back in one piece. The Road Magazine - ‘Masterful writing’ I’m riding again and I don’t TBM – Trail Bike Magazine - ‘Truly involving feel as though the tarmac is and enthralling’ out to get me any more – it’s The Riders Digest - ‘Technicolour descriptions’ good to be back in the saddle. Dan is keen to be on the road City Bike Magazine USA - ‘Clear and unpretentious’ too, seems the young bounce Motorcycle Sport and Leisure - ‘One of the world’s leading back more quickly. motorcycle authors’ to drive instead. It could have because I ride too. I know that If we live by ‘but what if?’ ISBN: 978-0955657337 ‘Few travel writers can conjure up sights been much worse, he should the possibility of road rash then we will never achieve and smells so provocatively as Sam’ have been more careful, if only is always there just waiting anything, we will never enjoy he’d gone a different way… if to catch you the moment an experience or adventure. from The Daily Record only… if… if… if… your attention is distracted We would not be the people His mother of course was or concentration lapses for we are and we would never beside herself with worry just a moment. Even though leave the house. TORTILLAS to TOTEMS when I called her; I could I knew this, for days after my hear the tears in her voice. A confidence was shaken, I saw Nick Lojik SIDETRACKED BY THE UNEXPECTED 38 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 39 www.sam-manicom.com The Clever Girls Sick of the BEARBACKThen with and Boys’ Club rat race? Escape THE WORLD OVERLAND

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40 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 41 n my report on the Posh Boys’ beano in the after over a week of total lockdown, it felt great railway arches (issue 179), I admitted that to be out and about and riding rapidly through Ithirty odd years earlier when I was a courier heavy traffic in glorious sunshine. with a keen sense of social grievance, I might have been less able to enjoy the occasion After a welcome from Prof. Chris Wainwright for what it was. Well any prejudices I might (Pro-Vice Chancellor Chelsea, Camberwell have carried in my youth with regard to the and Wimbledon colleges, UAL) Prof. Suzanne pretensions of the privileged classes, paled into Ferriss & Prof. Steven Alford (both of the Nova insignificance alongside my antipathy when Southeastern University and the IJMS) and it came to the rarefied world of academia, an the conference organiser Caryn Simonson, aversion that would have definitely prevented the lovely Lois Pryce presented a thoroughly me from attending the Clever Girls and entertaining overview of the African Boys’ Club. adventures she wrote about in her wonderful second book. Then again, there wasn’t really a lot of danger of my being invited when I was in my Red Tape & White Knuckles describes some twenties. Not that I wasn’t a bright boy, but amazing escapades and Ms Pryce is clearly well aside from the fact that the International practised at talking to large audiences because Journal of Motorcycle Studies didn’t even she kept the whole room enthralled with her exist way back then, I didn’t – and still don’t tales of derring doing, which as Sergio Fava – possess a first degree, let alone the Masters observed when he came to the lectern after that seemed to be the minimum requirement her, made her an incredibly tough act to follow. among the other attendees who weren’t PhDs of Biker Culture as Metaphor) I spotted Eryl observation!” if he’d mentioned “hysterically She was indeed and she set a high bar for the or Professors. Price-Davies’ presentation entitled, Roger funny” too, he could have been describing The rest of the conference. Dodger: Some ideas about Despatch Riding, Carin’ Sharin’ Chronicles! I grabbed my wife Presumably that’s why Jonathan, our New York Cultural Identity, and … Homology? that excitedly and outlined my plan to cannibalise And how did the people who followed based cultural attaché and book reviewer, declared, “The activity of despatch riding, or my book, chopping out all the funny bits, her shape up? Aside from the two keynote suggested that I should send Blez or one of rather the activities of despatch riders, offers replacing straightforward words like ‘example’ speakers – Lois and Ellis Pitt of Mac motorcycles the Digest’s other more scholastic contributors itself/themselves as a curious intersection with more esoteric options like ‘paradigm’, (who provided a very interesting ‘street view’ of to the 3rd IJMS conference; but there was between a number of discourses. It thus bunging in a little discourse analysis, “The motorcycle culture) – and a screening of Miguel no way I was going to miss out on gaining a provides fascinating opportunities to explore codification of communications between Grunstein’s fascinating non-verbal short film, little insight into a world that I’d previously some of the ways in which a largely leisure- controllers and couriers” should cover it, Absolutely Nothing, Next 22 Miles… A Fugue only ever glimpsed from the other side of the based identity (biker) collide with the world provide references, “Life is like a pubic hair on for Motorcycle last thing on Friday, the rest educational counter during the three and a of work, and to examine the detritus of the the side of a toilet bowl… sooner or later you of the speakers were divided into ‘panels’ of half years I spent working as a lab technician at ensuing collision in homological terms. Now get pissed off.” Aussie Pete (1981) and Robert’s four whereby they each had a twenty minute UCL after I left school. largely supplanted by the rise of information your mother’s live-in – it’ll be a piece of piss slot to present their take on the theme, before technology, 30 years ago despatch riding to pick up a Masters from a fancy shmancy coming together for a twenty-five minute Q&A Besides, among the many fascinating topics was a hugely popular way for bikers to turn university (rather than one of the crap ones session at the end. on the programme (that included such gems their love of motorcycling to their economic that was a Polytechnic when I left school!). She as, Immanuel Kant, I Can; Manufacturing Sleaze advantage. This presentation will explore some simply gave me that look. The subjects the panels covered over the three and Terror: The New English Library Biker Fiction of the connections and tensions that arose— days of the conference were, Journeys, Fashion, of the 1970s; She’s not a fatboy, she’s my baby with reference to historical accounts, and The Chelsea College of Art is next door to the Image, Racing, Machines, Health & Safety, girl: Race, Gender and Motorcycles; and Just participant observation.” Tate Old Fashioned in Pimlico and having put Social Politics, Sex/Gender, and Literature/ Ride: Lana del Rey Authorship and the Language “Historical accounts and participant issue 180 to bed just a couple of days earlier Music; and while the individual members Continued on page 64 42 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 43 44 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 45 46 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 47 48 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 49 50 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 51 52 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 53 54 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 55 56 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 57 58 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 59 60 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 61 62 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 63 64 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 65 tended to present their own perspectives on the topic, it was generally pretty obvious why they grouped together. The notable exception however, was Eryl’s “…ideas about Despatch Riding”, which unaccountably turned up on the ‘Image’ panel. Surely there has never been an area of motorcycling that is less image conscious than the Despatch industry? (Unfortunately I unavoidably missed out on hearing Eryl speak so I’m none the wiser as to how the most utilitarian group of motorcyclists I can imagine made it into a panel alongside a couple of discourses about bikes in the cinema and another on the subject of ‘soft marketing’.)

The three days the conference spanned at the beginning of July were the beginning of a heatwave so it was stiflingly hot in the lecture theatre. Consequently each panellist’s ability to almost committing academic suicide later by you assemble a large group of motorcyclists The 4th IJMS conference will be back in Colorado make an interesting point and deliver it in an proudly admitting to male chauvinism when together, the casual conversations in the next year but that’s a bit more than the 25-mile engaging manner was put to the test as they a Sex/Gender panellist put the question to breaks can be every bit as illuminating and a daily round-trip I had to make for this one, so fought against the soporific effect the heat was the audience); father and daughter Barry lot more fun, and it was great to meet and talk I’m not making any serious plans at this stage. having on their audience. The capacity to do so & Kim Coleman, who delivered a riveting to other riders from around the world That said it would be brilliant to be able to varied considerably from speaker to speaker twenty minutes on Riders for Health; David attend because when all’s said and done, they and seemed to have nothing whatsoever to do Kendall whose examination of The New English Then there was the exhibition in the Triangle might be a bunch of academics who dress up with their relative academic seniority. Library Biker Fiction of the 1970s gave me a real Space, Motorcycle Cultures: Fashioning Bikes, an activity that we all love in a whole load of flashback to my teens; and our very own Blez, Building Identities, which opened on the big words and complex notions, but ultimately I won’t name and shame any of the more who attempted – once again – to convince the Thursday evening. Visitor number swelled they’re all riders who enjoy talking about bikes somniferous presenters, suffice to say though conference that riding with your feet in front of steadily from about 5:30pm, as a stream of – just like you and me. that a few of them reminded me of the very you, is the only way forward. bikes – many of them works of art in their own worst teachers from my schooldays and by the right – arrived and parked around the parade Dave Gurman time some of them had finished droning on, I I must also mention Nicholas Biebuyck because ground, thus turning the art college into an was grateful that they didn’t have blackboard he not only spoke on two panels covering both impromptu summer evening bike meet. You can see a full list of speakers and the erasers to chuck at my head to wake me up! the aforementioned ‘soft marketing’ and then subjects they discussed by following this link: the mind-blowing Advanced Biomaterials for I didn’t turn up for the brunch at the Ace Cafe On the other hand there were standouts Pro Poor Transport: A Powered Two-Wheeler on the Sunday because I’d already absented www.ijms2013.wordpress.com/conference- like Catrin Webster who used her paintings Made from Grass, but he also gave me a brilliant myself from my family for three long days in a programme to illustrate a couple of her journeys – one plug by reading out a couple of quotes from my row so I didn’t dare blow the remainder of the comparatively short and routine, the other to book before holding it up and telling everyone weekend going to a venue that I tend to visit And you can find out more about the IJMS by Rome and back; Emmanuelle Dirix, whose witty what a damn good read it was! on a semi-regular basis anyway; but everyone visiting their web site: dissection of Lana Del Ray “Ride” video proved who did attend, whether they travelled there to be both illuminating and entertaining; The discussions in the lecture theatre were by bike or on the vintage Routemaster bus that http://ijms.nova.edu/index.html Loukas Mexis, a young Greek PhD who served obviously the main focus of the conference had been hired for the purpose, agreed that it up a great plug for his novel “Flat Track” (before but, as is always going to be the case when rounded things off perfectly.

66 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 67 Juke Box Jury

68 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 69 any years ago when I was just a callow youth, I worked with a bloke Mcalled Trev. He was a decent sort, but couldn’t resist taking the Mickey out of my little Japanese two stroke, frequently telling me that I needed to get a ‘proper’ bike like a Bonnie or a Commando.

It seems he had been something of a rocker in the 1960s and, despite the fact that some fifteen years later he was a family man with a mortgage and a Cortina, he was still very enthusiastic about bikes.

He even sold me his old and incredibly scruffy ‘Highwayman’ leather jacket, ragged lapels replete with enamel badges displaying the names of long gone marques, while fringes across the back and down the sleeves completed the picture. It looked the part but in reality it would have afforded as much protection as a wet paper bag. Having been a DJ for more than 35 years I’m highly illegal on the public highway but will Lunch breaks were often spent with Trev aware that there isn’t a ‘final groove’ as such – it’s render your insurance null and void. Save it for regaling me with stories of the adventures he all one long groove. a track day, much safer on all counts, and there’s and his mates had had bending the rules a little, nothing coming the other way. usually in connection with speed limits and I also know that 45 rpm singles were notoriously more often than not involving the boys in blue. short in the 1960s, with the average length One Friday evening recently when a few TRD being 2 minutes and 57 seconds. So to select a contributors met up at the Ace Cafe, Dave Along with tales of clashes with gangs of Mods disc, run outside, start a British bike, speed off to Gurman started talking about ‘record racing’ at in Brighton and Margate, he told me of how he the destination and then back in less than three Johnson’s Café and of course the Ace, asking if and his mates would visit Johnson’s Café on the minutes sounds like a tall order. Maybe the bike it really happened or whether it was just a myth. A20 at West Kingsdown in Kent, put a disc on the would be already ticking over… With Trev’s words echoing in my mind I assured jukebox, and then speed through the village and him that it was all true, as I’d known someone down Death Hill to the Farningham roundabout, I wish to make one thing clear here. With due who used to do it. then racing back before the record had finished. deference to those who believe in Santa Claus and the tooth fairy, I’m not setting out to bust Dave wasn’t quite so sure, citing an early episode In the decades since I worked with Trev, I have any myths, if your dad says he did it, who am I of a TV police drama series called ‘Dixon of Dock heard variations of this tale time and time again, to say otherwise? All I want to do is present the Green’ as being the basis for the story. the location sometimes changed, but essentially facts to enable you to make up your own mind. it involved putting a record on, running out and Dave was referring to an article by Roger Tuson, jumping on a bike, and then racing off to some Likewise, I’m not suggesting that anyone should founder of The Rider’s Digest, who had covered given point – usually a junction or a roundabout try this practice now, far from it, as we all know this ground some years earlier: ‘According to – and back before the stylus hit the final groove. ‘pace making and speed testing’ are not only an Ace Cafe regular, Barry Cheese, the concept of

70 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 71 72 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 73 T2T Flyer2:Layout 1 12/2/12 12:52 Page 2

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'A captivating book for all, 'Sam has the skills of the This is a great story which this is the story of an story teller and this book reads with the ease of a enlightening, yet daunting easily transports you into novel. Distant Suns has it all: journey across fourteen three years of journey across love, good guys, bad guys, African countries by Asia. He manages to bring beauty, danger, history, motorcycle.’ Aerostich the sounds, scents and heat geography and last but not of Asia to life without wordy least-bikes! A fast, easy and 'This is a great adventure overkill.’ Horizons Unlimited thoroughly enjoyable read.' and a really enjoyable read.' webbikeworld Johnnie Walker - BBC 'This is one helluvan Radio Two ‘Drive Time’ adventure!' ‘Distant Suns doesn't just Canyonchasers.com document the journey 'In the range of Motorcycle through Southern Africa and Travel Books out there, this ‘The thing I most enjoyed South America, Sam also one pulls no punches. In the about this book was the describes cultural gritty bits, you can feel the feeling that I was there with differences, traditions and grit. I liked it a lot.' him as he went through lifestyles of the various Motorcycle.co.uk everything.’ London countries they cross, whilst Record Racing became ‘reality’ after the idea was sounded so reasonable, given the reputation of Bikers.com 'The word-pictures that bring painting a vivid picture of the dreamed up by the BBC to illustrate a storyline the real Ace Cafe, that surely it had to be true. a good travel book to life are terrain they cross. A truly about the death of a young biker. Indeed, the script Alas, it wasn’t.’ ‘A unique and wonderful all here.’ The Road involving and enthralling shows that after stealing a, and I quote, “seven- adventure.’ Ted Simon read.' TBM - Trail Bike fifty, alloy heads, hight-lift cams, rev counter – it’s After calling Roger one evening to discuss his author of Jupiter’s Travels Magazine a real potent bike”, the two protagonists go for a research into ‘Record Racing’ I discovered that race and one says, “Just up to the roundabout and following his discussions with Mr Cheese, the get your copies from: up the hill. Put a record on – see if we can get back ‘given point’ that the racers would choose as before it ends.” their turning point wasn’t necessarily the Hanger www.sam-manicom.com Lane Gyratory System at the junction with the ‘where every day is an adventure’ But that was the power of the Ace. Take one A40, and that perhaps the now convoluted or innocuous line from a TV script and the aura junction with the A4088 at Neasden may have www.traveldriplus.com of the Ace surrounds it and makes its own. It been where they were heading. ‘quality kit for serious fun’ 74 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 75 course the dreaded photographic inventions of Gatso and Truvelo.

We need therefore to assume that the practitioners of ‘record racing’ – if indeed it ever existed – were less than respectful of the Highway Code in all its forms.

So let’s start (for me) closest to home at Johnson’s Café in West Kingsdown, which was formerly situated on the A20 between Brands Hatch and the Horse and Groom at the top of Wrotham Hill, and is now the offices of A4G, an accountancy firm who will apparently look after your tax strategies and improve your profit and cash flow.

I popped in to A4G’s offices for a chat with receptionist Sarah Foley about the building’s history and was pleased to see that they proudly present a photo album detailing the building’s rich heritage, full of photographs and cuttings, while the walls are still decked with photographs of Johnson’s Café, along with various riders and machines. This inspired me to re-visit ‘record racing’ and There are also accounts of riders leaving the Busy For the purposes of this investigation m’lud, start looking into these myths and legends in a Bee in Watford to get to the Ace before a record I have decided that a 1960s single will be 3 The company bought the premises about 11 little more detail. had finished, but in the days when only American minutes long. Evidence suggests this would be years ago as a derelict shell, having previously TV detective Amos Burke and Batman had mobile on the generous side; one account refers to Paul been the ‘Kings Lodge’ nightclub. Obviously A little internet searching provided me with phones, one wonders how the riders would know Anka’s ‘Diana’ as being the record of choice as it while it would have been great to have sketchy accounts of such feats of derring- that a record playing on a jukebox several miles was a little longer, even though it appears to last wandered up to the counter to order a ‘frothy do, a rich seam of which can be found on an the other side of Brent Cross had finished? just under two and a half minutes. It was also a coffee’ before sitting down at a Formica covered internet forum on the site of another web-only fifties hit, but it was ‘of the time’. table complete with a squeezy tomato shaped motorcycle magazine whose name escapes me. Other posts refer to ‘record racing’ from the Busy ketchup and a sugar bowl, it was good to see Bee along the Watford bypass to the Aldenham So we’ll allow 30 seconds from dropping a coin that the building is now in excellent condition It seems that the principal locations of this Roundabout and back, but again there seem in the slot and pressing the selection buttons and that the current owners are embracing the mythical practice were indeed London’s Ace to be as many naysayers as there are believers. to the Rock-Ola clicking and whirring to slap building’s past. Sarah did offer me a coffee by Cafe, just off the A406 North Circular Road at the single on the turntable and land the stylus the way. I asked the ladies in the office if they Stonebridge, and the aforementioned Johnson’s So I have decided to investigate whether or in the groove all rode motorbikes but they all said no, stating Café near Brands Hatch, although The Busy Bee not it would have been at all possible to cover that they were ‘too clumsy’. at Watford and two cafés at Biggin Hill, The a few miles at speed while a pop song plays in We do of course need to take into account Saltbox and The Nightingale also get mentioned a café, and offer you a few facts and figures to in these modern times the increase in traffic But looking into Trev’s accounts from the 60s in despatches, albeit with no references to enable you to decide what was true, and what volume, changes in speed limits, the introduction I found some difficulties with obtaining credit record racing. we should file under ‘tall tales’. of traffic lights and new road layouts, plus of here. I decided to ride from the former site of

76 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 77 78 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 79 this historic eatery towards London and the That ride took me about 12 minutes, observing This route is a total of 2.3 miles. To cover this easily have created a craze for proving how fast roundabout at the junction with the A225 at current traffic regulations. Let’s not forget that distance in the magic 3 minutes the average your bike was and what a quick rider you were. Farningham, before heading back to ‘Johnson’s there was a lot less traffic in those days, and if speed would need to be 46 miles per hour. And we ‘were’ all quick riders weren’t we? Café’ at legal speeds. you check out TRD 180 my article about the Ace Possible in the 1960s? I’d say so. I am told that Cafe Ton-Up Day at Brooklands was a celebration the Hanger Lane Gyratory opened in 1963. Television in the UK was very popular in those The distance (according to my speedo) is a little of the fact that there were bikes capable of Before it existed I believe there used to be a days and, with just three channels to choose over 9 miles. We also now have an extended exceeding 100 mph around as early as 1938. crossroads where the A406 met the A40, so a from, audience figures were massive compared 40 mph speed limit zone through the village There must have been considerable engineering U-turn may have been even quicker. with the hundreds of channels of dross we get of West Kingsdown, traffic lights at the major advances in British bikes over the ensuing 25 to choose from today, so that particular episode junction with the main entrance to Brands years, surely? Our final (imaginary) port of call is up to the Busy of Dixon of Dock Green would have been seen Hatch and once you escape the confines of the Bee Café in Watford. On the Busy Bee Motorcycle by numbers of viewers that TV schedulers can village, a threatening looking Truvelo speed Moving north-west to Stonebridge in north west Club’s website (http://busybeemcc.wordpress. only dream of in 2013. camera stands at the junction with the ironically London, The Ace Cafe has become one of the com/history/) Peter Mayne makes a direct named Scratchers Lane, its beady red eye staring world’s most famous meeting and eating places reference to Record Racing So did ‘record racing’ ever unerringly at you as you pass. for bikers. Originally opened in 1938 (again, see and states that from the exist? The evidence is there. TRD 180 for further information) this legendary Busy Bee to the Aldenham Any TV show featuring On descending ‘Death Hill’ as you get to the transport cafe was flattened by the Luftwaffe Roundabout and back was motorcycles even today junction on the left, which takes the A225 during the Second World War before being later just over four miles. generates a lot of interest south towards Eynsford, the road quite suddenly rebuilt to gain infamy as the scene of what might among our peers. And like sweeps to the right, a bend formerly known now be called anti-social behaviour. Once again, using some it or not, we’re all influenced as ‘suicide’ as it was said that taking it too fast basic maths (OK, a Google to varying degrees by what would be just that. It is said an ambulance This usually involved leather jacket clad ‘Ton-Up search…) to calculate the we see on the telly. would often be stationed here in readiness for Boys’ assembling on their bikes, drinking coffee average speed needed to unfortunate riders who would find themselves and doing what bikers do best, comparing cover four miles in three It’s time to make your own being catapulted through the tree belt into the notes and talking about bolt on goodies and minutes, we’re talking 80 minds up. But while you’re field beyond. modifications. mph. But if we once again thinking about it, I thought bring ‘Hey Jude’ into the I’d pay homage to those If we’re exceedingly generous here and imagine Inevitably the subject would then turn to how equation, the necessary heroic antics from several that Messrs. Page & Plant had penned ‘Stairway fast it’ll go, with proud owners often embellishing average speed drops to decades ago, but in a 21st to Heaven’ (and indeed it had been released as the actual performance capabilities of their less than 34 mph. Maybe century health & safety a single) ten years earlier, an average speed of mounts before being encouraged to ‘prove it’. we’ll settle for something in conscious, legal, sanitised, more than 65mph would have been needed if Some things never change. between. and probably quite boring Trev was to ride back onto Johnson’s forecourt sort of way. before it ended just after eight minutes later. Which brings us nicely back to the subject in I think my personal jury is recording an open hand. Having dismissed the Neasden junction verdict here. The modern day A41 isn’t a So I visited the Oakdene Café at Wrotham Possible. But even though we’re talking about as being too complicated, let us imagine that particularly technical road to ride, but obviously Heath with a view to seeing if I could ride up the 1960s here, actor Richard Harris had a hit we will instead cross the bridge over the North as a kiddie in short trousers at the time I can’t the A20 to the roundabout with the London with ‘Macarthur Park at 7 minutes and 5 seconds Circular and head in a south westerly direction. really vouch for what it looked like 40 odd bound junction of the M20 and back. With the in 1968 and The Beatles also offer a glimmer of I should add that we will have been extremely years ago. lamentable lack of a jukebox at the Oakdene I hope with ‘Hey Jude’ (7 minutes and 4 seconds) fortunate with the traffic lights, and have a clean stationed my daughter Jasmine there with my which reached No 1 in the UK in the same year. sweep from the forecourt of the Ace down to So while it seems that ‘record racing’ originated iPod, and selected The Beatles ‘A Hard Day’s With that playing on the jukebox the average Hanger Lane and back again. (I think we’re as a scriptwriter’s device to illustrate how Night’, which is 2 minutes and 33 seconds speed would have needed to have been 76.42 heading from the remotely possible into the reckless the ‘Ton-Up Boys’ were back in the The speed limit on the A20 there is 50mph, so mph. You decide. realms of total fantasy here…) 1960s, I feel it is entirely possible that it could with my crash helmet and gloves on I nodded

80 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 81 82 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 83 to Jasmine, who pressed ‘play’ and in place of tickling the carbs and several kicks I pressed the 50-51booksdvds_Layout 1 22/05/2012 11:41 Page 1 alarm/immobiliser button on my key, inserted it in the ignition, disengaged the steering lock, turned the ignition on, pressed the starter button and the big air cooled twin fired up. books&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks

This was a gentle ride to the roundabout and back within the speed limit, if I got back before Ken Sprayson the frame man the song ended then so be it. Ken Sprayson – hero of cares to remember! He made the takes you back to when British the IoM TT with the TT first Norton featherbed industry led the world and British production frame, helped design bikes were setting the pace. Welding service! So did I do it before George Harrison’s repetitive and produce the Dragonfly Ken’s book will be launched at Every year for 50 years, from frame, developed the Earles fork the International Classic Bike 12 string Rickenbacker riff faded out? 1958 to 2008, Ken, welding torch into the legendary Reynolds Show at Stafford, April 28-29 in hand, repaired the damage Racing fork, made innovative where Ken will be a guest of wrought by these infamous roads and successful racing frames for honour surrounded by some of Easy peasy. Trev would have been proud of me. on racing frames. Geoff Duke, Jeff Smith, Mike the many racing specials for He ran a completely free Hailwood, and John Surtees and which he designed and built the welding service for novices and many others. frames. world champions alike, giving At Reynolds he became the “Evening all”, as George Dixon would say. his time and expertise for no master of making light but strong Publication: April 2012. reward and always a perfect job welded frames from Reynolds Recommended price £14.95 done with a smile! To racers with 531 tubing. He was so good he (includes UK p&p when ISBN 978-0-9564975-6-7 broken bikes Ken was little short even made the frame for Thrust 2 ordered from Panther Panther Publishing Ltd. Martin Haskell of a saint. the British World Land Speed Publishing) [email protected] Ken has been a legend among record breaking car propelled by 229 pages, 234 x 176mm, panther-publishing.com motorcycle racers and enthusiasts a jet engine. softback, 170 photos and Foreword by Malc Wheeler of Thanks to: for more years than he probably This is a fantastic book which illustrations. Classic Racer Roger Tuson Sarah Foley at A4G Accountants The Busy Bee MCC By Ian Mutch All 5 for The Oakdene Café www.mutchmotorcyclebooks.com £36 And Jasmine Haskell for timekeeping inc P&P! and photography It’s a steal  

At this year’s Busy Bee Club Reunion (at the Hilton Hotel on the A41 near Watford on 1/9/2013), they will be laying a granite memorial saying, “The site of the Busy           Bee Cafe 1938 - 1968, 24 hour haunt of motorcyclists. Busy Bee Motorcycle Club, Harley to Mali Low Rider Looking For Riding with the Picture book A4 £7.99 £7.99 America Beast Motorcycles Watford, 1st September 2013.” plus £1.50 P&P plus £1.50 P&P £7.99 £7.99 Forever plus £1.50 P&P plus £1.50 P&P £12.99 plus £1.50 P&P

If these books donʼt make you smile, seek medical help

Twitter For payment details emaikl me: [email protected] @IanMutch cheques or paypal at present no cards, sorry

50 The ROAD

84 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 85 Blood Runner

86 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 87 he received wisdom says you should never go back; LP Hartley famously said T“The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there” and who am I to argue with that? There’s no denying though that my past has, to some degree, become my future.

Some of you might remember my ‘Black Rat’ column from the earliest days of TRD, back when it was little more than a photocopied publication aimed at London’s despatch riders. Back in 1998, I was working in London for Bonds as a despatch rider on a liveried Pan Euro ST1100 and each month I’d write 1,500 words for TRD about life on the road.

Fast forward 15 years and a lot has changed. I’m no longer a despatch rider – I left that behind in early 2000 to become a freelance journalist, a choice that has taken me around the world and shown me some fascinating (and occasionally dark) aspects of life. I’m no longer based in London either – I live in Belfast now and although I still do the odd bit of journalism, I earn most of my living as a ghostwriter. That’s the stuff that’s different. The parallels? I’m back delivering vital packages on a Pan European and I’m writing about it for TRD once again. QED: my past, and my future.

It’s funny how things work out. Back in 2002 I was lucky enough to be invited by South Yorkshire Police to spend some time on a marked police motorcycle so I could write a feature about life as a bike cop but, before they’d allow me to run around answering calls on blues and twos, they put me through a course to teach me how to do so. I had no idea then that what I learned would prove so useful eleven years later.

The reason I’m back on a Pan, and the reason for my reappearance in this magazine, is the precious cargo that I carry when I’m on shift: human blood – samples for urgent analysis and whole units for

88 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 89 transfusion, which my colleagues and I collect from various blood banks and transfer straight to the hospital where the patient is waiting. That course I did with South Yorkshire Police has proved useful for those urgent calls we get, which mean running across Belfast on blues-and-twos to ensure we get the blood where it’s needed, in the shortest time possible.

Blood bikes have been operating in the UK for more than 40 years. The service began on April 1st, 1969 in Stevenage, when a youth community action group named Freewheelers was established to encourage experienced bikers to use their riding skills to provide a fast and reliable courier service to local hospitals. Using the model created by Freewheelers, other groups were established across the UK and Ireland over the years, operated and run by volunteers and funded entirely by sponsorship and donations from the public. The reason? Well, the NHS largely relies on taxis to transport medical essentials outside of core hours. This makes a huge dent in an already over-stretched budget. Blood Bikes provide a vital service, which is entirely free to the NHS – the hospitals we serve save between £20 and £50 every time we undertake a run for them.

The objective is simple; we provide an out-of- hours emergency service to transport urgently needed units of blood for transfusion, human tissues and other medical requirements between NHS facilities. To do this we use specially adapted motorcycles to assist local health trusts by providing fast, safe and efficient transport from NHS labs or blood banks to hospitals or other facilities. The bikes we use are all fully-liveried ex-police Honda Pan Europeans and Deauvilles, complete with blue lights and tri-sound sirens; on an urgent run, these are used to full effect to ensure that we get the blood from bank to patient in the quickest possible time. The distances we cover may sometimes be short, but Belfast’s rush-hour traffic is amongst the worst in the UK

90 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 91 so every second we can steal is of paramount importance when it can mean the difference between life and death.

Although a patient may be waiting on the operating room table for the blood that we carry, there is another factor that contributes to the urgency and it’s the fact that the cold chain for human blood has to be observed and protected at all times. This means that it has to be kept at a constant 4°C as once it’s outside of a refrigerator it’s only viable for 30 minutes; any longer and it has to be disposed of, so it’s imperative that we get it from pick-up to delivery point fast. Every second counts.

The service has only been operating in Belfast since the end of January this year but we’ve already completed well over 1,200 individual taskings and the number is increasing daily. It takes a surprising number of riders, all of whom give up their time for free, to ensure we have cover when it’s needed. The riders in the team are a great bunch and an airline pilot, a retired publican and several advanced motorcycle instructors. There are two husband-and-wife teams, and everyone has an advanced riding qualification. Age wise, we’re all the wrong side of 40. The esprit de corps is brilliant though, born of a unity of purpose and conviction, a belief in what we’re doing, and all of us derive an enormous sense of satisfaction from doing something worthwhile. For me it’s also the perfect counterfoil to my freelance existence, which sees me working from home for extended periods; I actively look forward to my weekly shifts.

We certainly don’t do it for the weather; more often than not showers and rain are our constant companions, bar one ten-day period early in June when the temperature in Belfast was hotter than LA, Madrid and Paris and we saw clear blue skies and bright sunshine throughout. But hey, this is Belfast. It rains. You live with it.

92 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 93 The riding’s good, though it’s taken me a while to never needed to filter previously, thus it’s a get used to the way people ride bikes here. After skill rarely used. Really? Maybe it’s a London- cutting my biking teeth in London traffic, it was centric skill, little used by anyone outside of the a bit of a culture shock when I saw so many riders Capital but I don’t think so. Perhaps you could here sitting in traffic, nine, ten, sometimes more enlighten me. vehicles back from the white line at the lights. That’s inexcusable enough in summer but hey, Traffic jams are why Blood Bikes came into if that’s your thing then each to his own, but in being in Belfast; well, those and the flag protests winter? Why? Why would you do that? Why suffer which made global news and threatened to riding a motorbike in sub-zero temperatures if drag Northern Ireland back into the dark ages you can’t buy time with it? If you want to sit in between September last year and the first traffic, go by car – at least you’ll be warm and few months of 2013. A daily diet of violence, dry. You could listen to the radio, or read – that blocked roads, rioting and security alerts, allied seems to be the latest fad among some of the to Belfast’s latest import – bus lanes – were a more ‘switched-off’ car drivers stuck in the daily recipe for disaster and they brought utter hell of commuter traffic. Why not join them? If gridlock to the city’s already crowded roads. The you’re so out of touch with how to ride a bike bus lanes were introduced earlier this spring and that you’ve forgotten what your instructor told they brought utter misery to Belfast’s frustrated you about ‘making progress’ you’re hardly likely commuters, snarling up traffic and bringing the to be bike aware when you’re behind the wheel City to a standstill. This had an obvious impact Motorcycle Tours throughout the UK now, are you? on the ability of the blood banks to ensure that and Europe riding excellent roads urgent supplies would get to their destination 11 Tours for 2013 which include: A great many bikers here don’t respond the way on time as, even the NHS Blood Vans, which I expect when I’m driving a car either. If I see are also equipped with blues-and-twos, had a bike in my mirrors and there’s space for me problems getting through. The Blood Bikes to do so, I always move over. And I’m generally offered a seemingly perfect solution. left wondering why I bothered, as, looking in my mirrors again, I see the same bike sitting It’s tiring; riding on blues-and-twos is a privilege, behind me and an all but empty twisting ribbon but it’s mentally exhausting and at the end of of tarmac snaking into the distance ahead. Make each shift, I feel utterly fatigued in a way that room for a bike and sit in wonder as nothing I haven’t experienced since my early days as a happens. I don’t think I ever saw that when I courier in London. That said, it’s a nice tiredness lived on the mainland. and it comes with a feeling of a job well done. We’re only a tiny cog in a massive machine, but Seeing bikers filtering here is unusual enough I’ve yet to find a sense of job satisfaction remotely that it’s notable when you actually do see close to what I feel having just delivered six units someone on a bike gap-chasing and riding the of blood for an urgent transfusion and I’m looking broken white line. Given the glacial pace that forward to watching this fledgling unit that I’m a traffic moves at during rush hour here, any biker part of grow... For details of all our tours visit our website: www.dragonmototours.co.uk who chooses not to filter is in danger of being e-mail: [email protected] Call: 07816 396614 or 01270 661249 overtaken by continental drift. I’ve heard several Antony Loveless theories for this, most of which revolve around DragonMoto Tours @DragonMotoTours the fact that severe traffic jams are a relatively Follow me on Twitter: @antonyloveles recent phenomenon in this wee city, so bikers [email protected]

94 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 95 Men and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (or Plus Ca Change)

96 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 97 It’s 07.30am on Friday 5th July 2013 and I arrive a few minutes after the others. We exchange a couple of words before setting off for the chunnel. Pete’s endurance replica Guzzi is already smoking like Dave Allen, which isn’t a good start to the weekend. I am the first to notice as Justin led Pete on the way to the rendezvous. I don’t relish the taste of burning 15/40 smoke for breakfast and we pull over after less than a mile. I suggest a blast down the A2 to check oil usage; possibly not too clever a suggestion but I am anxious to get on the road. I have kept a few smoking bikes running in my time, by keeping them topped up with oil, but I’ve also blown a few up.

Pete is clearly uncomfortable with this and Justin suggests going back to Putney and grabbing Pete’s other Le Mans. Of course, Pete has two of the beauties, I had momentarily forgotten in the excitement of the off. With 35-year-old classics it’s always handy to have a back up and we have shedloads between us. So we head back around the South Circular Road to Putney. The rush hour is kicking off and somewhat tough going for three men with combined age of 155, on a trio of café racers that were designed for the open road. Back at his lock up, Pete gets the blue one out fires her up and we are off by a more direct route via Sutton and the M25.

We are well on our way and I relish the opportunity to open the old girl up on the n 1976, the closest that I got to a Moto It’s an iconic image and can still be found. It’s Lane in Dulwich before heading to the circuit motorway. Pete does the same and before Guzzi Le Mans was the framed poster on my difficult to sit astride a Le Mans without resting at Spa-Francorchamps in Belgium to watch we know it we have lost our friend altogether. Ibedroom wall. Actually, it wasn’t a poster but one’s hand on a rocker cover from time to bikes from the 70s race in the Biker’s Classic I’m used to riding alone and soon realise that a page, carefully torn from Bike Magazine’s road time, the 90 degree V twin is perfectly placed event. By coincidence I bought a Honda 250 riding together requires some planning. Pete test of the period. to remind the rider of the link through touch from Streamline when I took my test back in and I peel off at the first services, park on the between man and machine. June 1975; I thought that my bike at the time, bridge and start looking forlornly for a red The picture was of a brand new Le Mans resting a CD175 with Dunstall megaphones, was too Guzzi, of which there is no sign. We phone a on its side stand in front of a dark wood. The Thirty-seven years later and I am riding my very loud for the purpose so I traded it in for an few times and eventually speak to Justin who is woma n sitting on the bike emphasised its own Le Mans across south London to join a ultra quiet and boring 250 Honda G5. Today a bit miffed. It turns out that he’s in the services beauty and diminutive size, and her hand couple of others. We are meeting outside what the three Guzzis are loud, proud and not at a few hundred yards away. He has his 13mm casually caresses the right hand rocker cover. used to be Streamline Motorcycles on Lordship all boring. spanner out and he’s tightening the right

98 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 99 100 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 101 would be happy with, and a far cry from a tepid hamburger in Leicester Forest East.

Leaving France we know we are in Belgium when the roads change from perfectly smooth to totally lethal. I see Justin’s bike leap into the air and squirm upon landing after hitting a pothole. It’s not fun and soon we are filtering through an endless traffic jam, just like the south circular but worse. We crack on, things get better going around Liege. The road clears, the surface improves and soon we are sweeping through beautiful forest towards Malmedy. We have arrived. The circuit is close by, the weather could not be better and Sam has cold beers in the fridge of our weekend apartment. It has been a pretty yin yang journey so far.

About 20 years earlier three of the current quartet did a similar trip to Le Mans for the 24- hour bike race. That time the flywheel came off Justin’s Guzzi, after one bolt worked loose the rest quickly sheared! We repaired it en route at a friend’s place in Normandy. We were a bit younger then and got the motor out in 20 minutes. It took a few hours longer to put the bike back together (with new bolts supplied by the local tractor shop), but we did and it worked. Three of the same people now find ourselves fixing the same bike.

Now, like back then, not much is said, we all know how to pull a Guzzi apart and just get on with it to get our mate back on the road again. hand exhaust flange as he thinks the gasket grab a coffee along with a sausage and runny Pete and I follow like sheep keen not to lose We remove the exhaust system and find that the has blown. egg roll. I somehow manage to get most of my him again. It would be fair to say that in the problem is not simply the gasket, the flange on breakfast aboard but holding a hot coffee while heady excitement of preparing for this trip, we the head end of the downpipes had cracked and The train is only 20 miles away so we press on operating a clutch is not recommended. may have skipped a few details, like planning broken off completely. Packing three gaskets in with Justin’s exhaust blowing. At the Chunnel a proper route. The idea was to find nice fast does little to improve the problem. Some frantic terminal we ring our fourth Le Mans man, Sam, Twenty-five minutes later we are in France, the A roads but with Justin’s bike not too well we brainstorming helped or hindered by a few cold who is coming to meet us from Marburg in train being a bit more reliable than our bikes. It opt for a motorway to get to Spa as simply as beers: find a welder at the track? Find a Guzzi Germany. He hasn’t left home yet so he pockets feels great; we fill up and head east. Well west possible in order to fix the bike. It is soon late dealer on Saturday? Call Carole Nash? (Definitely a pack of gaskets from his extensive stock of first, as Justin takes a wrong turn and leads us afternoon so we stop for steak and chips at the least preferred option, none of us want to spares. We are waved on to the train just as I back towards Calais popping and banging. a motorway services; food that Michel Roux go back on a breakdown truck. Pete did that Continued on page 117 102 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 103 104 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 105 106 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 107 108 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 109 110 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 111 112 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 113 114 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 115 116 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 117 on our last Le Mans trip four years earlier, but got a Guzzi?” we ask. “I have 45,” he replies “come that’s another story.) Then Justin remembers and visit my small museum sometime”. We will. that he has his 36 mm downpipes in his garage Back in Malmedy, most of us succumb to pizza in London (the broken ones are 40mm). Pete’s and wine. Justin and Sam abstain and wait for pal Zade, is coming out on Saturday, so we now Zade with the downpipes. Justin wants to fix Touratech’s Compañero is one have a plan. A few phone calls later and Zade his bike and ride to the track to see some of of the newest textile suits on the market. Compañero fans agrees to detour via Justin’s place and bring the the racing at night. Zade arrives at 9pm on his COME TO US include the British actor FOR BIG BRAND spare pipes out the next day. Justin has never Speed Triple having enjoyed the back roads. Charley Boorman (“Long Way NAMES LIKE: Round”, “Race to Dakar”), and met Zade they are simply both motorcyclists. As darkness falls we fit the pipes. A chap on seasoned motorbike a Goldwing pulls up and provides extra light. adventurers Simon/Lisa Thomas and Nick Sanders. On Saturday it is even hotter, clear blue sky and There is no common language but he’s a biker evergreen forest surround us on the way to the and he knows what we need. The pipes are track. It is fantastic, you are allowed to wander fitted and we pack the 4mm between pipe and freely through the paddock and pits at this Lanfranconi ‘silencer’ with aluminium sheet from event. We spend time admiring perfect Guzzis beer cans. Justin’s bike is soon sorted and he and Tank Bags and discussing technical points with team Sam head back to the track to see race’s climax mechanics who are only too willing to share their at midnight. passion and time in the relaxed atmosphere. We DESIERTO 3 - Top fairing for your BMW find Bob Collins of Team Glam UK. Bob runs FWR In the morning we are up and ready to go by ten. tyres in Kennington and usually loves a chat but Zade hasn’t been to the track but he decides he is not a happy chap today. His P&M Kawasaki that he wants to ride back with us. We consult is playing up and he has pushed it back in after the map and choose proper fun roads. It’s that practise. ‘It was hard work’ he says with typical old thing, having watched bikes ridden so well understatement. I later learn that in the race he we are eager to have a go ourselves and before worked his way from the back of the grid into we know it we are seeking a restaurant for lunch. The Touratech Adventure Shock by Tractive is now fifth place before his bike expired. I bet it was fun Another short fast ride later we are back on the available for the top-selling though, carving his way through seventy bikes. Chunnel train again. Back in England, Pete’s BMW R 1200 GS / Adventure and F 800 GS, in three He will be back next year. bike starts misfiring; it gets him home before different versions: Level 1, stopping for good as the front wheel crosses High End and Extreme. I take lots of pictures and see many styles of the threshold to his lock up. It turns out to be a

Xenon and fog lights rocker cover. I like the blue ones and Justin dodgy ignition wire, but it had made the 700- gets inspiration for his next project Guzzi. We mile round trip. Next year Zade might actually find ourselves adjacent to the track in the pit see some racing, and my bike may be the one lane where there are gaps in the fence, enough to break down. But whatever happens we will to squeeze our heads through and be within be back. a meter or so of the bikes blasting by at what we estimate to be around 135 mph. We feel the Just try and stop us, everything comes to he wave of power as they pass, which is hard to who waits. Zega Pro Panniers describe. We are mesmerised. Woffy Visit our new branch now open in Chester... We wander round overdosing on the VISIT US TOO... Touratech Chester, Stanney Mill Lane, Little Stanney, Chester, Cheshire, CH2 4HY COME AND atmosphere, buy some frites and head back to Visit our webshop www.touratech.co.uk the bikes where we find a German bloke wearing Touratech UK, Unit 14 Woodlands Business Park, Ystradgynlais, Swansea, SA9 1JW a Guzzi T shirt admiring our machines. “Have you Tel: (01639) 841765 | Email: [email protected]

118 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 119 “Funny But Thoughtful” “Dave Gurman is the thinking motorcyclist’s Jezza. He’s deeper, balder, funnier and infinitely less irritating - and he’s had a lifelong passion for bikes!”

“Dave Gurman makes you glad that you’re riding and glad that you’re reading” – Austin Vince

“Dave’s ability to capture segments of life and express them in a personal and uplifting manner creates many a snigger through to full on laugh out loud moments.” – Neil ‘Nelly’ Hudd “I have three words for Dave Gurman’s Book - I LOVE IT!” – Harriet Ridley Only £5.99 Never too old to lean – or – Don’t give up sat on the floor in the Gents with the hand bike. The grim realisation was that my plans dryer blowing on my head and realised for my imminent retirement, touring Europe, II had a big problem. In late September, were not realistic. I’ve ridden since I was 16 but I’d left Dieppe in the early morning, riding in now my delight in owning a bike and riding Can be ordered from any a rainstorm of biblical proportions. The rain seemed under threat from this recurrent illness. good bookshop - continued all the way from Dover so by the I didn’t know what to do. My wife Pat tried to available ex-stock from: time I reached Leigh Delamare Services it cheer me by reminding me that we had money

The Ace Cafe, London had already been a long day. My waterproofs to replace the bike but there seemed little were working but the spray was getting in my point. The gloom accompanied me into the The Shop in the Clouds helmet. Now I had a gripping headache, car New Year. Then something curious happened. (Ponderosa) Horseshoe Pass, headlights hurt my eyes and I was being hit by In February I went to Race Retro at Stoneleigh Llangollen waves of nausea. It was the onset of another and came across a display at the Ace Cafe severe sinus infection and I knew I had about stand. Wandering round I stopped to admire www.amazon.co.uk two hours or so to get back to West Wales a road replica of a Kevin Schwantz Suzuki and before the next stage, dizziness, set in. I was remarked to my friend that it looked like fun. www.mapsman.com relieved when I rolled into the garage, turned The owner appeared and he told me that he

off the engine and staggered away to a get rode it in the summer, did the shows and had www.traveldriplus.com a shower and antibiotics and throw myself even met Kevin Schwantz who had signed the www.wemoto.com into bed. bike for him. It was like an explosion in my head as I realised that I might just have a way forward. Or by post from: Dave Gurman, 48 This had been the 4th sinus attack in the year Argyle Avenue, Hounslow, TW3 2LF – and I felt miserable when, a few days later I When I retired, I could ride any nice day of the cheque for £7.99 (£2 p&p) opened the garage to unpack and clean the week rather than any nice day at the weekend.

120 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 121 122 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 123 flight-inclusive adventures from blazing trails tours

south african Tours If you’re looking for a bike tourer’s paradise, then look no further. The riding in South Africa is blissfully diverse and always interesting. Choose your wheels from the BMW GS-range

Johannesburg to Cape Town A classic route, taking in the Drakensberg Mountains, the rolling hills of KwaZulu Natal, the Garden Route, Little Karoo desert and the Cape Penninsula. northern south africa The Highveld, Lowveld, Swaziland, the Indian Ocean, Rorke’s Drift and the Drakensberg Mountains, plus a safari in the world-famous Kruger National Park, all on super roads.

indian adventures Ride a Royal Enfield up the world’s highest roads, tour Little Tibet, enjoy the culture and splendour of the Himalayan Foothills, or chill on a Keralan beach

spiti valley Amazing riding meets amazing scenery and culture in Himalayan ‘Little Tibet’. The odds were much better. If I was going to be On the agreed day, which happily was dry, Ladakh & Zanskar restricted by weather why not get a different I rode the four hours north and was soon The highest Himalayan roads, remotest valleys bike? Pretty well every bike I’ve ridden has completing the paperwork. I went out to look and Buddhist monasteries. been a big touring twin, mostly Guzzis and at my purchase and there was a guy looking Himalayan foothills Lower passes, but stunning all the same. Yamahas so I was used to low revs and big at it closely. “Nice bike,” he said, “I had a yellow torque. I’d only ever ridden a sports bike, a one, £12k, lovely thing until the gearbox seized kerala Beaches and mountains of South India. 600, at the Ron Haslam School and had been and put me in hospital. Are you looking to buy bemused by the riding position, buzzy engine one?” I told him I’d just bought it at which point and lack of torque. he sucked through his teeth, shook his head ride in nepal and walked away. Suddenly all the assurances From exotic jungle destinations, to views of the world’s highest peaks, Nepal offers I had received about necessary checks and the two-wheeled adventurer one of life’s great experiences Thing was that I had a memory of the most striking bike I had ever seen, the Benelli Tornado modifications became doubts. Kathmandu to bardia 900 Tre which at launch in 2003 had been £12k Some of the best riding, views and food you’ll but was now £6500. I had kept pictures of it The four hour ride home was terrible. I couldn’t find anywhere, all amid the fascinating culture of Nepal – motorcycle touring does not get much and so I started to do my homework, checking get comfortable, the mirrors were rubbish, the better than this! Owners and Technical forums as well as the test stick-on tax disc obscured the speedo and I We will guide you along sinuous mountain trails, across plains and through jungles to the shadow reviews. Soon I had a pretty good idea of what could not find neutral. The clash between great of mighty Annapurna, on to Kathmandu, to the ownership would entail. The only decision idea and reality became very clear. At home I border with Tibet and back via Everest views. This trip is characterised by rides in places of now was ‘green and silver works colours’ or parked up and took a much-needed beer and incredible natural beauty. plain ‘racing red’? Pat chose red and I started my neighbours came over. As they joined me phoning dealers. Soon I found one who would in a beer and admired the machine one of give me a good part exchange so for £3400 I them asked, “If you don’t mind me asking, as a tours start at £2295, including all flights, transfers and more was the owner of an exotic Italian superbike. person of mature years, shouldn’t you be riding all holidays fully insured and bonded in the UK for your financial protection!

124 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 125 Mail: [email protected] • Web: www.blazingtrailstours.com • call: 01902 894009 126 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 127 something sensible?” My doubts lifted instantly assurances, had not all been done. Great guys, and I replied, “Exactly, that’s why I bought it!” great service and not expensive. But I did have one more expense; the Benelli came with 7 Over the next few days as I cleaned, polished year old Dunlop D207 tyres. Not ideal but a and checked the bike over, I listed all the riding builder’s nail through the rear tyre prompted problems I had encountered during the ‘run me to buy some new Pirellis. in’ period and found solutions to them all. I changed the way I rode and the speed I had to Now I could ride with confidence and as ride at for everything to start to ‘flow’. Soon the the miles have increased so has my comfort 600 miles were up and I went to another dealer, and enjoyment. The Benelli, in particular the which was only 3 hours away for the service. suspension and brakes, are higher spec than I asked about the key checks and modifications anything else I have owned. To misquote an and was told, “Don’t worry; it’s all covered by old cigarette advert “You are never alone with the 2 year warranty.” I was beginning to imagine a Benelli”. Stop to refuel and folk come over, making a warranty claim from a hospital bed! always with one of three comments “Nice bike”, To cap the day I rode home in heavy rain, and “Wow, I’ve never seen one on the road before”, yes, I was sick again. “So you took the risk, how is it?”

I realised that I had to address my doubts so I If you see, or pass a Racing Red Benelli on the went to Bennetts of Barnsley, who were highly roads in West Wales, exhaust note booming rated by members of the Benelli Forum. I back off of the hills, that’s very likely to be me, explained my concerns, matched my checklist enjoying my motorcycling to the full, despite with theirs and booked the bike in. I soon everything. had it back with a DVD showing the work undertaken and a written list of the checks and modifications, which, despite the seller’s Wyn Edwards

128 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 129 ARE WE OUR OWN WORST ENEMIES?

espite my advancing years I like to Now, the purpose of these demos is so that think I’m still the same hooligan on we, and future generations, will be able to Dtwo wheels that I used to be – give modify our bikes in any way we want, so I feel me a quick bike and I’ll wring its neck and its important not to present too much of an anti squeeze its nuts to see what it will do. Probably social impression to the public and monitoring not very skilfully but it would still get a authorities. Which is why I think it’s a bad idea good hammering. to arrive bouncing the revs off the limiter on your sports bike with mega loud cans – which Which is why there are no quick bikes in my is what a lot of people did. On the slow cruise garage nowadays and haven’t been since I through the city I saw members of the public moved to France. I live out in the country, miles covering their ears and shaking their heads as from anything you could even remotely call scores of mega loud bikes were revved to the civilisation, so the loss of my licence would prove limit in the confines of some narrow streets. catastrophic. That doesn’t mean to say that I just We need the support of the public, not to doddle along but I don’t do speeds that would alienate them. result in a jail sentence (well, not very often). I do miss that adrenaline kick but giving it up was I’m a bit out of touch with the sports bike world, the price I paid for living where I do. so for reasons of research I borrowed a pile of magazines from a friend, with titles such as Fast I have no problems with anyone else doing Bikes and Performance Bikes. It was a mind whatever speed they want but, as they say, numbing experience in the main, with endless there is a time and place for everything. Last comparisons between the latest sports bikes weekend I attended one of these enormous and other hooligan tools. Traction control, ABS, demonstrations against the crazy new laws switchable riding modes and a host of other currently being proposed for Europe. I took a technologies way beyond my comprehension. bike that was totally legal right down to the The top speeds have increased dramatically pipes and number plate, correctly surmising since my last sports bike, along with much that given the large number of bikes blocking lighter bikes and incredible levels of handling. the city there would be a heavy police Standards have progressed way beyond what is presence. I was the first bike to arrive at the useable on the road – you need to be on a track appointed meeting area, so I was in a good to get anywhere near to exploring the limits of position to observe the next thousand arrivals. these race track refugees. The police are actually really good on these demos, stopping traffic and allowing us to go What really got me thinking was the road tests, through red lights, use the wrong side of the which is just what they are – tests of these two road and other naughties. There must have wheeled missiles on public roads. They contain been at least ten gendarmes at the entrance detailed descriptions of the top speeds attained, to the car park, casually observing every bike the big high speed wheelies, the near misses coming in. when pushing the bikes way beyond reasonable

130 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 131 132 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 133 limitations for a public road and even boasting As a final thought, I’m no lawyer, but as a of the damage done to cars when squeezing journalist I would not want to boast in a through traffic. They make it sound like everyone national magazine details of the highly illegal who buys these bikes will want to behave in the speeds attained on a regular basis, with same way. photographic evidence of wheelies and knee down roundabout action. You would not publish Like I said, I have no issue with people riding an article boasting of a mugging, or a burglary, their bikes the way they want but I do have an and expect to get away with it, so how long will issue with them putting it all down in writing it be before plod use a magazine article to push for everyone to read. Why? Because you can bet for the very public prosecution of a journalist? your ass that somewhere in every government Sorry to spoil your fun guys but if you don’t someone in a grey suit will be tasked with start thinking differently you are going to bring monitoring all publications and they can use about the demise of biking for the rest of us. these road tests as evidence to support the It’s happened before, when in 1965 AC boasted movement to get bikes off the road, or at least about high speed testing of the Cobra on the make our lives difficult. Think of the reaction motorway, prompting the introduction of the of the average member of public driving his UK’s ‘temporary’ 70 mph limit. euro approved tin box, which has never seen 100 mph, if the government were to highlight Wizzard that bikes are doing three times the speed limit, three figure wheelies, and treating the road as Photographs courtesy of the FFMC and Hal their own private race tracks. Jealousy -possibly? Outrage – much more likely and with every newly reported biker death, confirmation that these lethal weapons shouldn’t be allowed on the road. They will not consider the fact that it’s likely to be a dozy car driver who has caused the death of the biker in the first place!

So what I’m saying is that we need to lower our profile a bit. At the moment we are not just sticking our heads over the parapet to be sniped at, we are jumping about with targets on our backs in full view of the big guns of officialdom. OK, it would mean that sports bike magazines would need to rethink how they report their road tests, but that’s achievable with a bit of thought. The alternative is unthinkable – remember it’s not that long ago that mainland Europe had a 100bhp limit (which France has retained – try importing your UK Blade or similar!), and that BMW, who produce the current leading sports bike, up until relatively recently enforced a voluntary 100bhp limit.

134 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 135 A number of the visitors travel well hundreds of miles to be there, which is no mean feat on a ASK A Wednesday evening that isn’t always sunny, but they’re hard-core riders who aren’t put off by a little damp weather.

POLICEMAN It is a true Local Community event with everyone getting involved in supporting it from Barton Lions, the Rotary club, Barton Town Council who help to marshall, and the Humberside Police and The 17th Annual Barton Bike Night Humberside Road Safety partnership providing For a dozen years Malc was the chairman of an a safer environment. organising committee whose passion for the event, combined with a lot of – voluntary – hard There’s always a chance you might meet local work, turned it into a spectacular night that the celebrities like racers Mick Grant and Rob town is proud of and that is one of the largest McElnea; and Queen Street, just off the High bike nights in the UK. Barrie took on the role street, is the place to go to see all the classic when Malc stepped down 2009 and continued bikes on display from old Brit iron, American to expand the night’s appeal by adding more Indians, and Italians like Guzzi and Ducati, to trade stalls and including Race teams etc. a whole load of immaculate vintage scooters.

n Wednesday 3rd July 2013 between Malc arranged with the Town Council to close 5 and 10pm, a small market town in off the High Street, which proved to be a master ONorth Lincolnshire was overwhelmed stroke and the very first event was a huge success by thousands of motorcycles. with around 2,000 people attending on a mid summer’s Wednesday evening. Initially most Barton Bike Night has grown around the passion of the help came from local lads mucking in to of a few motorcycle enthusiasts who live there provide marshalling, but as the years passed and and this year approximately 20,000 people the number of stalls increased and attendance (which is more than twice the population of the steadily climbed (it was around 10,000 in 2012) town) attended the annual event, where among it was obvious larger numbers were needed. other attractions, special guests Michael Dunlop and John McGuiness chatted with TT fans.

One man’s Passion has become a major event on the biking calendar for any and all two-wheelers, from classic scooters to low-riding Harley chops.

Barrie Newton has been involved in the Barton Bike Night since his friend Malc Bennett had the idea back in 1997 following a run of successful Bike Nights in Brigg Town 12 miles away. Continued on page 117 136 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 137 138 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 139 140 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 141 As far as policing the event goes it’s all very So if you want to experience a great atmosphere casual, obviously there will always be the few among thousands of Bikers take a ride up to who need speaking to but personally I only saw Barton Upon Humber. one wheelie, and the culprit was placed on a RIDE course. Graham Pierce Pc1009

(A Rider Intervention Developing Experience Thanks to Barrie Newton for the history of the course is a voluntary opportunity to attend Barton Bike Night. a day’s rider education and is an alternative to prosecution. It may cost £95, but it’s not a Visit the web site for further details: conviction and there are no points, so no need to notify your insurance company. RIDE has www.bartonbikenight.com been structured towards motorcyclists and only riders attend.)

142 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 143 Seriously Super Motard uper Motards are what they are; they’re a little bit uncomfortable and have very Slittle fuel range but they’re great fun to ride. Think of a Yamaha WR450 with a set of road tyres and a taillight and you pretty much have the picture. So to call a bike an SMT or Super Motard CMS is a Banham Group Company dedicated to looking after Touring seems like a bit of an oxymoron. Indeed properties by providing rapid response Key Guards who attend the a Super Motard and a touring motorcycle should, premises following alarm activations or specific requests. and usually do, occupy opposite ends of the motorcycling spectrum. Apparently not any more. Key Guards are despatched by motorcycle to avoid traffic hold-ups and therefore ensure prompt arrival to the premises. Several years ago KTM introduced us to the concept of putting larger engines into For more information visit: cmskeyholding.com specifically designed and built super motards, which went quite a way to eliminating these compromises. The SM 950 was, and to my mind still is, one of the best road bikes ever made. The SMT was designed to make these bikes even more usable in the real world and they have managed to pull this off quite well. The good news is that the new 2013 version is even better. The power source is the tried and trusted 999cc liquid cooled LC8 engine which is now cleaner and more efficient thanks to fuel injection system rather than the, until recently used, carbs. They are also using the full power version, which puts out a healthy 115bhp. unit and in its place is a proper deep cushioned stepped seat that I found I could sit on all day. “Funny, informative and thought provoking. A great travel guide and a “humorous yet totally absorbing” great read” - Nich Brown, The Road - Motorcycle Monthly It’s a well-dressed motorcycle. The fittings (Try that on a BMW 1200GS!) The screen, while list reads like a who’s who of exotic European it didn’t look all that substantial is actually very “A fantastic account “This refreshingly anecdotal “a seriously funny adventure of life on the road and motorbike manufactures; Neken handlebars, effective. KTM have cleverly tinted it to make it book reads like a mate down an antidote to celebrity novel written in a way you the pub who’s travelled overland adventures – I Brembo brakes, WP suspension, Marchesini look smaller than it really is. Combined with the and can tell a good story” can actually relate to”. laughed out loud many times and felt like I was -Adventure Bike Rider -International Motor Cycle wheels and a Bosch ABS unit. The black and hand guards the effect is to take a six-foot tall riding pillion. Can’t wait for the next orange bike is full of intent with its stealth rider completely out of the windblast. “We are seeking legal advice” adventure.” - Motorcycle Mojo Magazine fighter angles and minimal switchgear. The world enters economic meltdown. A global u - Puerto del Faglioli Tourist Board pandemic looms. An historical US presidential election Up front the headlight is a stacked unit and is is taking place and, somewhere in the Americas, a lone Irishman is coaxing his temperamental Italian This 342 page book has an additional 12 pages of colour photographs that compliment an already Once on board the first very big surprise is that framed on either side by the neatest little white motorcycle through another electrical breakdown… vibrant story and is available through www.paddytyson.com, or by calling 01926 844064. You can also purchase it from Amazon and all good bookshops for £9.99. ISBN 978-0-9564305-1-9 the seat is comfortable. Gone is the motocross indicator lenses, giving the bike a minimalist

144 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 145 146 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 147 profile. The clocks are easy on the eye. A big But this is special, a note all of its own. And it’s round rev counter is complimented by the highly addictive. digital display, which shows the speed as well as time of day. The ABS is switchable and there Off the motorway and into the city the SMT is is a fuel warning light, a neutral light and an well balanced, filtering is easy and the panniers ABS warning light. There is nothing else; it’s a follow through the gaps without offering any refreshingly simple view. problems. The bike is tall enough to command the streets and the lock is great for the slow When I collected the bike it was run in and control riding. There is a bucket of low down ready to go. I rode away gently at low revs, short torque in the big V-twin and getting away from shifting it as I took a series of turns picking my the lights is child’s play. My fellow motorcycling way past stationary cars and onto the motorway. commuters did seem to expect some insanity On the slip road I got in front of the traffic from me. Apparently riding a KTM automatically and wound it on a bit. The growl through the infuses the rider with an ability to do almost standard exhaust had been somewhat muted vertical wheelies and rolling stoppies, between until then, but at 7,000 revs the bike gave me the lights on the local bypass. I seem to have my first big reward. The noise was phenomenal, failed to tick the talent box on the options list, so don’t think loud brash race exhaust, rather I settle for keeping both wheels on the ground! think of a mechanical overture as the Austrian Out in the country the SMT really shines. Over engine bellows from the bottom of its stomach. in Connemara in the West of Ireland and on Sure some V-twins might sound better, who some ‘challenging’ roads it was a joy to ride. doesn’t like the noise of a Ducati in full flight? On a group ride out we managed to find

148 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 149 150 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 151 several routes that were simply long strings of corners with almost no straight bits in between. An overexcited rider, decreasing radius turns and frightening behavior from the rental car drivers, were all taken in my stride thanks to the KTM’s brilliant chassis. Winding the throttle open on the exit to a corner I was rewarded with that wonderful growl from the exhaust; leaning the machine over on its new Bridgestone T30 tyres it felt as sure footed as a bike on rails and then charged towards the next corner to do it There were some other problems. The rear brake all again – and so it went on for 200 kilometres. pressure didn’t seem up to much and over the This was motorcycling heaven. three days on test it became clear why. The cap on the reservoir didn’t appear to be very well attached and the brake fluid was leaking out. By halfway through day two the unit was completely ineffective and the bike had to be retuned for repair. The build quality does seem to be an issue on some of these bikes. A few casual enquiries as to how the bikes hold up with owners of KTMs reveal several, small but annoying, problems of this sort. The interesting thing is, however, that KTM owners seem prepared to forgive these ‘little failings’. I’m The pillion seat is good enough for comfortable two up touring and has a set of grab bars built into the rear carrier, which can in turn carry a top box. The bike on test came with a set of fabric-covered panniers, which clip onto the heat shields over the end cans of the two into one into two exhaust system. Once the panniers are removed the mounting system is all but invisible. The bags themselves are billed as being ‘hydrophobic’. This seems to mean that the fabric will keep the water out, but the zips won’t. While each one comes with a liner that is waterproof and works well, the net effect is to reduce the carrying capacity of both quite significantly. The whole event got a little tiring as first the left pannier retainer and then the right one let go. As I was a long way from home this was quite an inconvenience but everything got a lot easier when I managed to find some cable ties.

152 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 153 154 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 155 Wired dependability & connectivity when you need it plus Bluetooth portability when you don’t

reminded of an owner’s review of his new Jawa Now that the bike is back here in the city and has The only manufacturer that gives you where he positively gushed about how good its brakes fixed, the best way that I can describe the bike was, as it had ‘made it home without riding the SMT is to compare it to my first bike. THE BEST oF BoTH WorLDS breaking down’! At the time I’d been using buses and taxis to get From JUST around. For a long time after buying my first bike £109.00 I had thought that if one spent this kind of everything was well in my world. I’d wake in the Go wired when you don’t want Starcom1 systems are designed money on a new bike then it would do what morning, remember that I had this motorcycle was expected of it, and here’s the odd bit. The downstairs and practically jump out of bed the hassle of recharging and go to give the ultimate in audio bike is so much fun to ride and is so refreshingly anxious to go anywhere on it. I’m older now and Bluetooth when you don’t want the performance, user comfort, safety different to everything else on the market that a lot lazier, but the KTM SMT gave me a similar hassle of a wire! Using the same and value! With prices from just I, like others, found myself forgiving its failings. sense of purpose. Jump on, hit the start button, helmet, our new wired/Bluetooth £159 for wired systems and an I even forgave a failed brake because I enjoyed close your visor and leave the world behind. I’ll package delivers in every scenario. incredible £109 for the new riding it so much. Had this happened on a be in the market for a new bike soon and I’m Bluetooth headsets, your decision Honda I’d be apoplectic. Had it happened on a seriously considering spending my own money just got easier! Ducati I’d be jingoistic and use race to place the on one of these. I might just refresh my toolbox blame. Had it happened on a BMW I’d consult first though. Buy or find out more at www.starcom1.com a lawyer, but because it happened on a quirky or call us on 01480 399499 orange bike I let it get away with it. I don’t seem to be alone in this outlook when it comes to the Austrian machines. Paul Browne better bike communications; better value

156 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 157 158 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 159 160 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 161 BOOK REVIEW Of Tourists and Travelers by Jonathan Boorstein

s I sat down to write prejudice against this month’s selection visible minorities Aof fun and forensic – most commonly book reviews, George race or gender – and specifically ban gay marriage. Zimmerman was found not prejudice against invisible As Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s guilty of murdering Trayvon minorities – most commonly Sherlock Holmes observed, Martin. The verdict sparked religion or sexual preference. “A coincidence! ... The odds are a handful of demonstrations In my experience, no bigot is enormous against its being across the United States as well prejudiced against just one coincidence. No figures could as calls for federal investigation group, though curiously express them” (The Adventure into the incident as a hate some bigots might have just of the Second Stain, 1904). crime and a boycott of the one exception: nobody’s state of Florida. It’s an odd perfect. Don’t care about lesbian and coincidence since the theme gay men? The highest estimate this time around might well be And anyone who presumes of the total population just described as the ethics of travel that prejudice is strictly makes it to ten percent. and travel writing, whether of peculiar to the right has clearly No problem. How about guides or personal adventures. never heard a committed women? The lowest estimate Marxist complain about the of the total population just The verdict should not have liabilities of identity politics tops fifty percent. In the past been a surprise to anyone, right as practiced by ‘those people’ two years (2011 and 2012), or left, who bothered to read as a distraction from collective 2044 ‘anti-women’ bills in the law as written. The center action. one form or another have does not hold. It is unlikely a been proposed in all 50 state more rigorous prosecution or Of course, race and prejudice legislatures, of which 165 have a more impartial jury would is and was at the heart of the been passed. Of the more have made a difference. And incident and its aftermath, but than 90 of those bills in some in the South anyone who isn’t if race is too uncomfortable 24 states, close to 70 percent a redneck or a good old boy is an issue, and it may be for restrict access to abortion perceived of as a threat. some, consider this: of the services. Three states have more than 30 states in the US even proposed to make it legal Some find it useful to sort that have stand-your-ground to kill any doctor performing prejudice into two categories: laws, more than two dozen abortions. Less publicized are

162 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 163 minority. To ‘come out’, the of a biker. Given that a biker in any state with a stand-your- precedents. And a general motorcyclist has to either tell is already perceived of as ground law may help keep the boycott would be useless. others about the interest or negative and dilettante issue from going away, there An activist here in New York turn up somewhere with kit vigilantes are not exactly well- is some question how long actually called such a boycott and bike. But no matter how trained police officers, there is that ‘boycott’ will last given ‘ridiculous’ saying it would be spiffy, motorcyclists are seen as a very real chance of getting that only between one third punishing people who had hairy bikers, members in good shot in such an encounter. And and one fourth of the states little, if anything, to do with standing of outlaw gangs. The the Kevlar used in synthetic don’t have such laws or legal the matter. increased number of RUBs leathers is not the same (Rich Urban Bikers) and baby weight as the Kevlar used in boomers among the ranks of bulletproof vests. motorcyclists has yet to make a dent in popular perception. The important question raised When I tell certain people I in terms of motorcycle travel is ‘attacks’ on divorce laws, rights indicated he would sign the review books for a motorcycle whether is it ethical to directly of victims of domestic violence, Motorcycle Abortion Bill. He magazine, the reaction is or indirectly encourage and, of all things, the Girl also promised not to use such generally a variation on “They tourism to anyplace where Scouts (Guides). tricks to get any law past the can read?” the motorcyclist might get public and the legislation, let killed? It’s a very real one in Think none of this has anything alone those measures some How potentially detrimental the case of Florida, which to do with motorcyclists? Think might find objectionable. is that public perception? The coincidentally is pushing to again. The so-called North While breaking such promises somewhat conservative Pat make the state the prime Carolina Motorcycle Abortion is standard operating Hahn notes in Motorcyclist’s destination for motorcycle Bill put motorcyclists right procedure across the political Legal Handbook (2011) tourism in the US. In addition in the crossfire. Briefly: in spectrum, breaking two such that “[w]ithout a permit, to touting its near perfect the middle of the legislative promises at once would take traveling with a loaded riding weather and lack of process, strict anti-abortion a perverse genius. and/or accessible weapon mandatory helmet laws, measures were inserted into is really asking for trouble. Florida has been busy creating a bill dedicated to motorcycle (Bearing in mind that the Even though you may be places to go and things to do safety. Less than half North best way to become foolish 100 percent legal in some for bikers. A new International Carolina’s voters supported is to try to predict the future, jurisdictions, it can easily Motorcycle Show will debut in the anti-abortion measures, it is likely the anti-abortion depend on how a law October in Orlando timed to but some 80 percent objected legislation will become law, enforcement officer interprets coincide with Biketoberfest in to the process. In other words, while motorcyclists – and the law or perceives his or her Daytona, which is just a short quite a few anti-abortionists motorcycle safety – will get safety in your presence” (37). ride away (and I have even yelled foul. the short end of the stick, if heard whispers that the Ace not the shaft.) Hahn is referring to concealed Cafe may be opening its first The governor, Pat McCrory, carry. His main point is how US branch in the area in 2014). had promised not to sign such Of course, as a group, someone might perceive his While headline performers and anti-abortion legislation, but motorcyclists are an invisible or her safety in the presence entertainers refusing to play

164 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 165 Negotiating awkward local aren’t challenging enough. things as what spares and on a Royal Enfield (which is political situations like that The ride is the challenge. supplies to carry. There is a practically a sub-genre of is not news to adventure Scott notes in Morocco: “[I]t’s deservedly brief discussion motorcycle travel). Yet helmets motorcycles travelers as not so much the actual riding of sponsorship. The merits of are given a quick overview Chris Scott notes many times as the relentless concentration hard and soft baggage are with a note to check the web directly and indirectly in his demanded by riding and discussed, as are merits of site for more information. Adventure Motorcycling navigating that’ll wear you out. traveling alone, with someone, It seems outfitting the rider Handbook (2012) and Although you’ll often be riding or in a group. Personal note: takes pillion to outfitting Morocco Overland (2013), the through spectacular scenery, riders who are thinking about the bike. latest revised editions (sixth the only chance you’ll get to writing about their adventures and second respectively) of appreciate this splendor is may wish to ride alone. Lois Pryce provides a witty two of his more popular titles. by stopping”. Your next stop: section about women as Along with Ted Simon, Scott the Adventure Motorcycle There are instructions about adventure motorcycle is responsible for inspiring Zone (AMZ). how to ride off-road and travelers and Grant Johnson at least two (if not three) warnings against overloading a more serious one about generations of motorcycling AMH is divided into three parts. a bike. Also useful are a trouble- shipping. Dr Paul Rowe’s adventurers. The first part is what makes the shooting guide for common section about Health and volume the authoritative bible motorcycle breakdowns and Medical Emergencies includes The Handbook, usually it is. It is all about the planning a neat cheat to convert from two useful checklists for first abbreviated as AMH by and preparing long motorcycle miles to kilometers and back aid kits and equipment as its devotees, began as trips. The second part is a solid again. Scott even includes well as a handful of suggested Desert Biking in 1991. Each overview of the main routes a section about carrying online sources for medical subsequent edition has been and possibilities in Asia, Africa, firearms for self-defense. He’s supplies not obtainable from bigger and more detailed, with and Latin America. The last against it, but then again he’s a physician or a pharmacy more experts contributing part is an anthology of short not advising riders about (chemist). It is followed by a special sections on this topic motorcycle travel articles. travel in developed countries. quick and basic ten pages of or that. The current edition is Between two and three dozen what to do in a range of likely a whopping 383 pages. Little other writers contributed Some of the choices of medical emergencies. wonder Scott suggests riders additional material. Sidebars what subjects get detailed leave AMH home when they highlight special topics. information and what gets Some of Scott’s go off on their own motorcycle shuttled to his web site (www. recommendations for other travel adventures. Close to 200 pages are devoted adventure-motorcycling. sources of information are the saddle, and individuals conventional motorcycle to picking routes, selecting com) seem odd. He covers solid and generous. Riders and Scott’s target audience who crave challenging touring closer to home and motorcycles, assembling the merits of the ten top readers are directed to both of adventurers has two rides. As he writes in the so the word ‘adventure’, with related equipment, and choices of motorcycles for www.horizonsunlimited. characteristics in common: introduction, AMH is “a its associations of risk and completing paperwork. adventure travel, from the com/hubb and www. they are experienced handbook for planning, uncertainty, is appropriate”. Accurate sources for gas/ highly desirable BMWs to the advrider.com/forums. motorcyclists, who have preparing and riding in The paved roads and sleek petrol prices and weather cult-classic Kawasaki KLR650. Other recommendations racked up far more than the developing countries… highways of Australia, Western conditions are recommended. There is even a special section seem peevish. Although he the classic 10,000 hours in beyond the safety net of Europe, and North America There are checklists for such dedicated to touring India recommends both Lonely

166 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 167 Planets and Rough Guides Express to keep the British out The third section, Tales goes on and on (for example, pps What connects the Martin/ also gone beyond the classic (for which he once worked), of trouble and from paying from the Saddle, is a small 12, 70). Their persistence annoys Zimmerman affair with Scott ‘package tour’, creating such he seems to find them the ‘gringo tax’. Many in Latin anthology of short travel him to be point where he all but and the AMZ is tourism. While niches as dark tourism (death unsatisfactory. To be fair, it’s America can’t tell the difference pieces. While all six are recommends riders avoid urban there may be no organized camps and killing fields); not just the lack of information between one English-speaking delightful and well worth Morocco altogether. Here the boycott, people may decide culinary tourism (learning a about secure parking. A group and another and think reading – Pryce’s Early reader wouldn’t know that there independently to spend their foreign cuisine by day, dining guidebook dated 2014 will anyone who speaks English is adventures with motorcycles are Roman ruins in Volubilis, Art tourist dollars somewhere at the better restaurants at have been published in 2013 an American, an annoyance the should be required reading Deco architecture in Casablanca, where they can have fun night); and voluntourism (do and researched in 2012. By humor of which gets old fast. for anyone contemplating or a World Music Festival in Fes; without having to worry good deeds while on holiday). the time a traveler buys the Many of those who can, regard contributing to the literature nor such museums in Marrakesh about being shot by mistake. Traveling to find a family tree guidebook, it’s already close the UK as a subject or puppet – there is a question whether as the Museum of Islamic Art The issue of touts in Morocco or cheaper medical services to two years out of date. state of the US. And sometimes Tales is the best use of the or the daft, but fascinating, may not be as serious, it still are popular with Americans. in Argentina it is better that a space in the book or whether Maison Tiskiwin. creates a negative image Even the unmentionable sex The issue of up-to-date British traveler be thought it should be spun off into an of the country as a tourist tourism fits the paradigm. information is one of the American. independent annual of best There are many ways to destination. In tourism, one of flaws of the second part, which motorcycle travel pieces. avoid the problem, some of the biggest economic boons Although Becker doesn’t offers routes and general But the main routes and which are out of the budget to places like Florida and specifically discuss information regarding each suggestions are good. Scott’s Morocco follows the of most travelers and all of Morocco, image is everything. motorcycle travel – I suspect country or area. The other is The sections often include same pattern as AMH: the first which are the opposite of the it’s way off her radar – it does sketchiness. Both are inherent non-motorcycling points part is prep and paperwork; the attraction of motorcycle travel: That is but one point in as well. Bikers can ride with in any project of this sort. of interest, from museums second, routes and data. There unmediated experience. It Elizabeth Becker’s Overbooked Charley Boorman as near as to historic sites and scenic are no Tales from the Saddle might have been better for (2013), a compelling look Wales or as far away as South Scott spends some 150 pages views. Language and currency here. Because of the narrower Scott to have batched all his at the travel and tourism Africa. Scott offers tours of covering the main routes as questions are addressed. But focus he goes into much more comments about touts in the industry in economic and the Sahara in general and well as key travel information my favorite part are the more detail, all but walking you sidebar and cut them out of ecological terms. It is not Morocco in particular. Eagle – cultural, political, procedural than a dozen Trip Reports in through customs with perfect the main narrative. The ‘extra’ only well-written and well- Riders lets bikers choose – for three continents in AMH. which various travelers answer paperwork himself. He also space could be used for a quick reported, but also disturbing between guided and self- Morocco gets barely two pages. such 33 basic questions as moves outside the AMZ into pick of Morocco’s cultural hits. and depressing. It is about guided tours, some with In Morocco, there are some “best day”, “bike model”, “any discussions about the merits Details would then be left to the numbers of tourism, not mix and match options, as 150 pages of all sorts of mix advice”, and “(trip) duration”. and methods of overlanding mainstream guides. the romance. well as rentals. We’re small and match routes. A general The answers to this version with 2 and 4WD as well as but we’re there. Tourists, handbook cannot have the of the “Proust questionnaire” with bicycles. AMH is highly recommended The numbers are quite not travelers. same density of detail a more are usually interesting, often for all riders, even commuters. impressive. Becker reports narrowly focused guide can. useful, sometimes funny. It’s all very useful and inspiring It’s one of those essential that tourism contributes Becker is an award-winning “Tyres used”, for example, for the serious adventure rider. volumes that belongs on every seven trillion dollars to the journalist with positions at That said, it would only take include such responses as The take-away for the casual biker’s bookshelf. Morocco world economy a year, more The Washington Post, National another sentence or two to “Asian crap”, “local brand”, reader however may likely be – unsurprisingly – is only than ten percent of the total, Public Radio (NPR), and The explain that it takes more than “three Euro cheapies”, “black, Scott’s issues with touts and essential for those who plan which puts it into the same New York Times, covering learning a few words of Spanish round”, and “some sort of beggars that sadly dominate in some serious adventure riding league as oil, finance, energy, everything from wars to and not using American knobblies”. the major cities about which he across the Maghreb. and agriculture. Tourism has the economy. She’s able to

168 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 169 crunch numbers, organize was sinking long before the growing list of human rights bikes it test rides. It gets material, and get past tourists arrived), pricing out violations and minority loaners. While this is hardly a industry and government locals and businesses catering suppression. (It has been deep, dark secret – and to be propaganda. She spent to them. It’s not alone. argued elsewhere that China fair, more often mentioned in five years researching London and New York aren’t is using tourism as a method a review than not – the fact (and traveling) to produce that far behind, both with of suppression in Tibet.) remains that if the company Overbooked, and it shows. neighborhoods once vital, doesn’t like the review there now empty of anyone other She places some of the blame is a chance there won’t be a It’s particularly relevant than the same sort of wealthy on travel journalism and its loaner next time. when discussing developing tourists and the business that tendency to treat travel articles countries which see tourism as service them. as puff pieces, focused mostly Parenthetically, books and film a quick way to build stronger on the fun and romance or theatre tickets are routine economies, but have little Becker is particularly critical of travel. Despite strong freebies, but without any interest in doing anything to of the cruise industry in which advertising revenues, the expectation of a good review. maintain the places or people ships are floating resorts, sections and magazines are Tradition and the fact that they exploit to attract tourists. destinations in themselves, usually under budgeted. Press it’s ART not recreation carries Angkor Wat is sinking from the providing trips to nowhere, junkets – free trips – are rife. the day. Major museums in weight of the all the tourists responsible to no one. Cruise She asserts that it’s the only major cities frequently have tramping about as well as ships alone pump some specialty that accepts such critics’ previews – essentially from the water table being forty billion dollars into the freebies and that it is creates a free admission – also without drained to support all the new US economy, charging its lack of critical distance, if not the expectation of a favorable hotels being built to house passenger/party goers first actual conflicts of interest. review. The “10% Critics’ such tourists. Elsewhere, world prices while paying its Discount” in the gift shop, coastal fishing villages are maids and waiters third world While it does help explain why however, is another matter. being razed to build resorts, wages, if that much. there are no critical analyses of I didn’t want the discount; I the villagers not as much the industry in the travel section, wanted the sign announcing relocated as simply evicted. Passengers are encouraged to it leaves unexplained how little the discount. While the overall economy tip heavily by the lines and the there is in the business pages. may go up, the average crew, many from third world That leads to one of her other Not all Becker’s observations standard of living goes down countries, become expert at major points: why doesn’t travel are negative. She praises because the profits go to the milking the usually elderly, and tourism get the respect (and France as being a country that multinationals and, Becker indulgent passengers for all coverage) it should have as an does tourism right because it claims, corrupt government they are worth. Foreign registry industry in general and in the US recognizes that since tourists officials. allows the lines to avoid both in particular? come to experience French paying minimum wage and More interesting is China, of being a tourist there would culture, French culture must Not that tourist destinations following environmental which not only used tourism to be comic with its anecdotes Of course, travel isn’t the then be preserved for the in the developed countries standards. Their contribution help fuel its economy but also of small cons and tourist traps only beat so compromised. tourists as well as for the are necessarily any better. to the fouling the seas, as they to improve its image abroad, were it not for the relentless Motorcycling is another. No French. In short, it is funded and Venice is overrun with spew sewage in their wake, an issue Florida might face, (Communist) propaganda magazine is so well funded maintained as a living, growing wealthy tourists (a city that is considerable. though writ small. Becker’s tale message distracting from a that it can afford to buy the tradition. Costa Rica is held up

170 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 181 August 2013 Back to Contents Page 171 as a model of ecotourism and limit the number of visitors. experience of a foreign culture green tourism. Despite being Laws to promote tourist that forces the traveler to the leader in what only makes dollars trickling down to the negotiate, to extend to some up some ten percent of the poor might be passed and form of other. market, Scott finds Costa Rica enforced (along with existing too mainstream (AMH). If only laws against corruption) in However, it would be beyond it were. developing countries. the scope of her book to ask how the foreign culture will Becker suggests a mix of But her more interesting receive the traveler? Will they dialogue and regulation observations in terms of be welcomed as guests or as a remedy. The product Florida and adventure shot as a perceived threat by being sold in tourism is the motorcycling is how the someone standing his ground? destination, therefore how industry seems to be pushing tourism affects the people tourists into two camps: the The book itself is highly who live in that destination resort/theme park/guided welcome and highly and make it what it is needs tour bubble that insulates recommended. to be examined. Places like them from the experience Venice of Angkor Wat might they claim to be seeking and jonathanb@ follow the lead of Bhutan and the wildlife preserve/direct theridersdigest.co.uk

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