The Uses and Gratifications of Fashion Blogs
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FASHION 2.0: THE USES AND GRATIFICATIONS OF FASHION BLOGS by Sasha Johnson Bachelor of Journalism, Carleton University, May 2011 A master’s research paper presented to Ryerson University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in the Program of Fashion Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2013 © Sasha Johnson 2013 AUTHOR’S DECLARATION FOR ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION OF A MRP I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this thesis or dissertation. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this thesis or dissertation to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. Signature_______________________________ I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this thesis or dissertation by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. Signature_______________________________ ii Abstract Fashion 2.0: The Uses and Gratifications of Fashion Blogs Master of Arts in Fashion, 2013 Sasha Johnson Ryerson University There has been limited research in the field of fashion blogs. This study attempts to begin filling this void by examining fashion blogs from the user’s perspective as they relate to other forms of fashion media. From the uses and gratifications perspective, this study employs a qualitative investigation to identify the motivational factors for fashion blog use. A two-step process, made up from an initial online questionnaire and in-depth interviews was used. The online questionnaire was answered by 247 women between the ages of 18 and 35. Respondents for the second portion of the study, the in-depth interviews, were made up of 10 women who had previously participated in the questionnaire. Three new motivational factors were identified: habit, entrance, and retrieve/save content. Adhering to the belief that new media technologies supplement rather than succeed one another, these findings have been explained in relation to the use of fashion magazines. iii Acknowledgements This master’s research project would not have been possible without the abounding guidance and support of Professor Joseph Medaglia. As a supervisor, his encouraging and positive attitude was paramount to my success. I cannot thank him enough for his time, insight, and patience. I am also deeply grateful to the faculty at Ryerson University’s School of Fashion for illuminating the fascinating and exciting area of fashion studies. Thank-you to everyone who participated in the online questionnaire and interview portion of this study. Your honesty and openness was greatly appreciated. To my family and friends, thank-you for your endless patience and support. This entire process would not have been possible without the emotional and financial support of my mother. I owe my greatest appreciation to her. Thanks, Mom! iv Table of Contents INTRODUCTION!..........................................................................................................................................1 BACKGROUND!.............................................................................................................................................4 IMPORTANCE OF COMMUNICATIONS MEDIA TO FASHION!..............................................................................4 HISTORY OF FASHION COMMUNICATIONS!.....................................................................................................5 PRESENT FASHION COMMUNICATIONS..........................................................................................................! 7 LITERATURE REVIEW!............................................................................................................................11 THE FASHION BLOG!....................................................................................................................................11 REMEDIATION..............................................................................................................................................! 14 USES AND GRATIFICATIONS APPROACH!......................................................................................................15 USES AND GRATIFICATIONS ASSUMPTIONS!.................................................................................................17 USES AND GRATIFICATIONS AND THE INTERNET!.........................................................................................18 PREVIOUS STUDIES OF INTERNET USES AND GRATIFICATIONS!....................................................................19 USES AND GRATIFICATIONS OF BLOGS!........................................................................................................26 PREVIOUS STUDIES OF BLOGGING MOTIVATIONS!.......................................................................................27 PREVIOUS STUDIES ON BLOG USERS’ USES AND GRATIFICATIONS!.............................................................29 METHODOLOGY!.......................................................................................................................................32 RESPONDENTS!.............................................................................................................................................33 PROCEDURE FOR QUESTIONNAIRE!..............................................................................................................34 MEASUREMENT FOR QUESTIONNAIRE!.........................................................................................................35 PROCEDURE FOR INTERVIEW!.......................................................................................................................37 MEASUREMENT FOR INTERVIEWS!...............................................................................................................37 RESULTS!.......................................................................................................................................................38 QUESTIONNAIRE ANALYSIS!........................................................................................................................38 CONTENT!.........................................................................................................................................39 CONTEXT OF USE!.............................................................................................................................40 CREDIBILITY!....................................................................................................................................40 FASHION BLOGGERS!........................................................................................................................41 INTERVIEW ANALYSIS!.................................................................................................................................42 RESPONDENT PROFILE!.....................................................................................................................42 MOTIVATIONS FOR USING BLOGS!....................................................................................................43 DISCUSSION!................................................................................................................................................46 HABIT..........................................................................................................................................................! 47 ENTRANCE!..................................................................................................................................................51 RETRIEVE AND SAVE CONTENT!...................................................................................................................54 IMPLICATIONS OF RESEARCH!.............................................................................................................57 LIMITATIONS AND FURTHER RESEARCH!........................................................................................61 CONCLUSION!.............................................................................................................................................63 APPENDIX!....................................................................................................................................................64 WORKS CITED............................................................................................................................................! 90 v Introduction ! On February 10, 2013, respected and esteemed fashion critic Suzy Menkes penned an article for T Magazine entitled “The Circus of Fashion.” The piece’s tone is one of aggravation. Menkes, who has worked as the head fashion reporter and editor since 1988, reminisces with a frustrated longing for a simpler time in fashion communications’ history. She blames fashion bloggers―a position that didn’t exist when she began her traditional career as a fashion journalist—for the destruction of fashion media. ! Since 1999, when the number of blogs (a then obscure term) numbered only 50 (Kaye, 2007, p. 128), the medium has come to amass a strong and substantial following. In 2008, 184 million blogs existed (Rocamora, 2012, p. 92). The medium, which now incorporates both personal and corporate websites, relies on daily posts that appear in reverse chronological order. The first fashion blog was founded in 2003. In 2010, just a few short years later, the genre of fashion blogs included 2 million (Rocamora, 2012, p. 92). ! As new media continue to evolve, the fashion media landscape