City Walks— —Walks

Centro Histórico walk find the equally mesmerising Centro Architecture, culture and cantinas fin-de-siècle Palacio Postal Address book Walks (see page tk). To the bottom left Histórico Start at the metro stop of the entrance you can see the 01 Laboratorio Arte — Stroll the city and walk towards the Alameda first brick used in construction, Alameda Heart of bold . Turn right and stamped “14 September 1902”. 7 Calle Doctor Mora, head past the Centro Cultural Turn right on Tacuba for tktktk Sure, you could stay in a calm, José Martí – where you might a couple of blocks until you +52 (55) 3647 5660 artealameda.bellasartes. leafy neighbourhood such as spy a group of men outside reach the azulejo-laden Café gob.mx or up-and-coming playing chess – and you’ll soon ( ), housed Tacuba see page tk 02 Museo Diego Santa María de la Ribera. But arrive at the Laboratorio in a 17th-century building. Rivera Yes, it’s vast and the miss the historic centre of Arte Alameda museum, housed Shoot south on Calle de 202 Balderas, tktktk traffic is crazy. But choose Mexico City at your peril. in the stunning former San Bolívar before turning left onto +52 (55) 1555 1900 your route wisely and a The streets pulsate to their Diego convent from 1621. Artículo 123, then head east for 03 walk in Mexico City will own tumultous rhythm and Keep walking then turn right three blocks. Take a moment 11 Revillagigedo, tktktk yield peaceful squares, are full of stunning (often down Cristóbal Colón and on the Museo de Arte Popular to marvel at the original +52 (55) 102 201 tucked-away streets and dilapidated) colonial buildings, the next corner you’ll find the (see page tk), an Palacio de Hierro department map.cdmx.gob.mx wide lined with bustling bars and cantinas, a Museo Mural . wonder that hosts a fun, folksy store before zipping left along 04 El Pescadito impressive edifices. plethora of cultural institutions It’s worth a visit to see the epic collection of . Avenida 20 de Noviembre 57 Avenida We bring you four walks and bucketloads of history. mural, “Sueño de una Tarde All that culture has probably to find another old-world Independencia, tktktk that will take you past Alongside the taco stands, Dominical en la Alameda given you an appetite, so carry beauty, 11 Gran Hotel Ciudad +52 (55) 123 263 fascinating architecture, car dealerships and oddly Central” (see page tk). on down Independencia until de México. This department 05 Cantina Tío Pepe colourful markets, must- ubiquitous record stores, Head south on Balderas for you reach the epic lunchtime store turned hotel still boasts 26 Independencia, tktktk see museums and the best there’s also a new breed of a couple of blocks (past the spot that is El Pescadito (see its original stained-glass ceiling. 06 cafés, shops and cantinas. entrepreneur shaking things huge Mexican Scientology page tk). Don’t be put off by By now you should be Lázaro And, being CDMX, there Cárdenas, tktktk up. This is the city’s heart, the building) then turn left onto the odd cellophane covering on the corner of the Zócalo, 07 will always be something seat of power and a backdrop Independencia. Continue on the plates or the inevitable with its huge flag and the Avenida Juárez, Esquina to surprise you. to the odd noisy protest or two. past the Teatro Metropólitan queue: these lip-smackingly hulking mass of the Catedral Eje Central, tktktk Embrace the chaos. on your right until you reach fresh fish tacos with generous Metropolitana (see page tk). +52 (55) 8647 6500 sides are worth the wait. Skirting the top of the square palacio.inba.gob.mx Now for a lunchtime treat near the latter is the Centro 08 Palacio Postal eeo (and we’re not talking dessert). Cultural España, a restored 1 Tacuba, tktktk Continue along Independencia historic building brimming +52 (55) 5340 3300 until you reach the corner with cultural offerings. You’re 09 Café de Tacuba of Dolores and Cantina also just steps away from the 28 Tacuba, tktktk Tío Pepe (see page tk), a divey Museo del ; +52 (55) 5521 2048 bar that has changed very little for a view of the incredible cafedetacuba.com.mx since it opened in 1890. There ruins of Tenochtitlán, take 10 El Palacio de Hierro are still bells in the booths that the bridge that runs above the 5 Avenida 20 de you can ring to order a drink. archaeological site. Acquaint Noviembre, tktktk Treat yourself to a cheeky yourself with the city’s Aztec +52 (55) 5728 9905 soytotalmentepalacio.com Hidalgo Ceto ast cervecita (beer). ancestors before nipping aacalea Calle e aca 11 Gran Hotel Ciudad de Exit and continue along into the nearest cantina and Parque México Alameda Independencia, turning rewarding yourself with a 82 16 de Septiembre, left when you reach the smoky mezcalito. eia e tktktk main intersection with Eje +52 (55) 1083 7700 Zócalo Central Lázaro Cárdenas. 12 Centro Cultural España aleas Straight ahead you’ll see 18 República de

Calle e ola the towering form of the Guatemala, tktktk Torre Latinoamericana (see +1 52 (55) 6592 9926 page tk), an iconic skyscraper ccemx.org dating from 1956. Visit the 13 Museo del Templo observation deck on the 44th Mayor floor for stunning views. 8 Seminario, tktktk Diagonally opposite is the +52 (55) 4040 5600 Palacio de Bellas Artes (see templomayor.inah.gob.mx page tk). Walk along the right- octoes hand side of the Palacio and on the corner of Tacuba you’ll

130 131 Mexico City Mexico City Walks— —Walks

Del Valle Address book

01 Viveros de Coyoacán Corner of Calle Madrid Viveros / Londres and Avenida México, Derechos Humanos tktktk iveros de Góme Farias oyoacn 02 Café Ruta de la Seda 1 Aurora, tktktk

Campestre +52 (55) 3869 4888 caferutadelaseda.com Malintin 03 Iglesia de la Inmaculada

San ngel Concepción Plaza de la Conchita, tktktk 04 Centro Cultural Iglesia de la Inmaculada serves towers of fresh ceviche Elena Garro Avenida Francisco Sosa Concepción (known as La piled onto maize tostadas. 43 Fernández Leal, tktktk Aurora Conchita) was ordered by Accompany them with agua +52 (55) 3003 4080 Spanish Hernán de jamaica (cold hibiscus tea). conaculta.gob.mx Presidente Carrana Cortés in the early 16th century Take the southern exit onto 05 Museo Kahlo over what was a pre-Hispanic Malintzin and walk west until 247 Londres, tktktk site of worship and it’s one of you reach Fratelli. This +52 (55) 5554 5999 the oldest churches in the city. sunglasses shop features hard- museofridakahlo.org.mx Further north from the to-find brands such as Massada 06 Mercado Coyoacán square, along Fernández and Retrosuperfuture. Ignacio Allende, tktktk Leal, is Centro Cultural Retrace your steps, take the +52 (55) 4072 1596 07 Fratelli Elena Garro (see page tk). The first right, then take the second Ciudad Universitaria 199 Malintzin, 04100 bookshop is comprehensive left onto Callejon Belisario +52 (55) 7035 4255 but the architecture is equally Domínugez. You’ll soon reach Fratelli.com.mx impressive: a glass-and- Plaza Hidalgo, one the city’s 08 Mercado Artesanal Exit at the south gate and concrete structure imposed main squares. Locals flock here Mexicano Coyoacán take Avenida Progreso, which over a fin-de-sciècle heritage on the weekends to people- 25 Felipe Carrillo Puerto, branches off from the main building by architects watch and listen to live music. 04000 Village life street around the park. Cross Fernanda Canales and On the western side of +52 (55) 5588 4531 Avenida Francisco Sosa, Arquitectura 911sc. the square is the Mercado 09 Iglesia de San Juan Coyoacán can often feel a far head down Calle Presidente Continue up the road, turn Artesanal Mexicano, a quaint Bautista cry from the hustle of central Carranza and turn right at left on Avenida Miguel Hidalgo market selling typical Mexican 8 Plaza Centenario, tktktk CDMX. In this peaceful, leafy Pino. On the corner with and then take your first right. wares. On the southern side +52 (55) 5554 6376 neighbourhood, there’s a Aurora is Café Ruta de la Keeping walking up Gómes is the Iglesia de San Juan 10 La Cervecería de Barrio perpetual Sunday-morning feel. Seda, a humble joint that serves Farias for six blocks and turn Bautista, built in the new 9 Parque Centenario, The one-time village was delectable pastries and tartines left at Calle Londres, after the Spanish baroque style in 1550. tktktk briefly the capital of New (try the Reblochon and figs park. On the corner of Londres On the adjoining square +52 (55) 5554 6444 lacerveceriadebarrio.com. Spain following the Spanish variant); snag a table outside. and Ignacio Allende is the Parque Centenario, opposite mx conquest and was completely Exit right and walk along Museo (see page the church entrance, is 11 La Coyoacana separate from Mexico City cobbled street Aurora until you tk), also known as La Casa La Cervecería de Barrio, 14 Higuera, tktktk until it was incorporated in Coyoacán walk reach a small fountain. Take a Azul. The artist’s cobalt-blue a great place for a casual +52 (55) 5658 5337 1857. In the mid-20th century Weekend wander seat and observe the quaint, house and studio is a popular beer on the terrace. Behind lacoyoacana.com it was home to Frida Kahlo, historic houses around you. attraction and if you intend the church there’s also 11 La 12 Prago Diego Rivera and Leon Start with a stroll through Continue down Aurora (it’s to visit you need to reserve a Coyacana: a rowdy Mexican 297 Hidalgo, tktktk Trotsky. Today it’s a well-to- Viveros de Coyoacán. This the road east of the fountain); ticket in advance. grill and bar on Calle Higuera +52 (55) 5658 5337 do quarter that feels affluent peculiar park is packed with take your first left, then first You’ll be peckish by now. with in the courtyard. without being snobbish. Many people running and practising right and first left again onto Exit left and head south on If you fancy something sweet of the original street layouts tai chi or yoga. It’s a wonderful Callejon del Horno. Turn left at Ignacio Allende until you reach head to Prago on Avenida and narrow lanes remain, as place to sit and enjoy the quiet Calle 3 Cruces and then right the Mercado Coyoacán. Miguel Hidalgo, which joins the does its bohemian air. for a few minutes. Around its at Calle Presidente Carranza. This food market has all the eastern side of Plaza Hidalgo. It’s best to visit on a walls you’ll find lots of stalls Follow the road until you reach vibrancy of a typical Mexican Here you can indulge in a leisurely Saturday or Sunday selling fruit; order a liquado a square on your left, with market but isn’t so big as to churro-style pastry filled with morning and linger through (smoothie) but remember to an old church on its eastern be overwhelming. Seek out nutella, ice-cream and all sorts the afternoon. say sin azúcar (without sugar). side. The construction of the Tostadas Coyoacán, which of other goodies.

132 133 Mexico City Mexico City Walks— —Walks

take south to the Juáre roundabout where you’ll find Address book osue the attractive and always- de hapultepec bustling Condesa branch of 01 Lardo Ojo de Agua, a juice-bar 6 Agustín Melgar, tktktk group with 10 outposts across +52 (55) 5211 7731 Mexico. You can create your lardo.mx own combination using a 02 Enhorabuena arue 13 Calle Atlixco, tktktk spaa variety of exotic ingredients, from coconut water and green +52 (55) 9155 6654 enhorabuenacafe.com pear to guanabana and papaya. 03 Parque España Juice in hand, wander Roma Norte 04 Galería L north up Citlaltépetl to reach arue 216 Alfonso Reyes, tktktk Avenida México, skirting the +52 (55) 5256 1050 Avenida Maatlan xico park, then loop south past 05 Parroquia de Santa Avenida Michoacán Avenida central planted walkway, look Plaza Popocatépetl and its Rosa de Lima Amsterdam out for the colourfully tiled and art deco fountain back onto 177 Avenidas , intricately decorated doorways Amsterdam. Make a point of tktktk facing the street. stopping in at Studioroca, a 06 Librería Rosario Pop into Perro de Mundo two-storey design shop run by Castellanos Alfonso Reyes to pick up a few presents for co-founders Rodrigo Alegre 202 Avenida Tamaulipas, the pooch in your life – this and Carlos Acosta. The pair tktktk tiny, quaint shopfront sells design their own furniture and +52 (55) 5276 7110 locally made accessories for work with emerging Mexican 07 Perro de Mundo dogs and cats, from collars designers to create unique 84 Alfonso Reyes, tktktk and organic shampoos to pieces, collaborating with an +52 (55) 5211 1212 perrodemundo.com leashes, beds and toys. array of small ateliers and Escandón 08 Tout Chocolat Chilpancingo Exit the shop and turn independent craftsmen around 154 Amsterdam, tktktk right down Yautepec. Heading the country to get them made. +52 (55) 5211 9840 east in a large loop, turn right The furniture might be too big tchocolatcom Condesa walk stroll among the countless dog- down Avenida Michoacán and to pack and take home but the 09 Ojo de Agua Condesa Art, shops and coffee stops walkers and exit on the other then right again down Vicente shop also stocks homeware, 23C Calle Citlaltépetl, side onto Avenida Nuevo León. Suárez. Follow Ozuluama until such as ceramics by Lagos tktktk Sleek streets Start with an early lunch at Head south and veer right onto you reach Avenida Amsterdam, del Mundo. +52 (55) 6395 8000 Lardo (see page tk), the Ometusco before taking a right which runs in a ring around Finish your day with a grupoojodeagua.com.mx Condesa is one of Mexico delectable second restaurant onto Alfonso Reyes to visit Condesa’s main park, Parque well-earned cocktail or a 10 Studioroca City’s oldest districts and from Elena Reygadas, who Galería L, a contemporary- México. On the corner you’ll traditional espadín mezcal 271 Amsterdam, tktktk even a short stroll here will earned global plaudits with her art gallery with frequently spot Tout Chocolat, a at 11 Baltra Bar (see page tk), +52 (55) 5004 1971 take you past historic buildings, Mediterranean-inspired joint, changing exhibitions. Continue speciality chocolate shop where a moodily lit and popular studioroca.com tree-lined avenues and neatly Rosetta. Skip the postprandial along Alfonso Reyes, stopping truffles and bars are made from night-time spot themed around 11 Baltra Bar manicured public parks. coffee, though, and walk to admire the Parroquia de a range of different cacaos. Darwin’s discoveries. 36D Iztaccihuatl, tktktk Its leafiness and art deco southeast down Avenida Santa Rosa de Lima church, By now you’ll likely be in +52 (55) 5264 1279 baltra.bar architecture have for decades and then right onto named after Saint Rose of need of some refreshment so contributed to its popularity Atlixco to Enhorabuena, a Lima, the first catholic to be with both visitors and charming café run by Vivian beatified in the Americas. residents – evident in the high Charlez, who sources her coffee Take a left past the church concentration of hip hotels, from speciality roasters in down Avenida Tamaulipas cool cafés and chic shops. Veracruz, and Chiapas. and stop by the Librería However, its age also means The light yet cosy space was Rosario Castellanos bookshop, Condesa is vulnerable to designed by local architect which is housed inside the art earthquakes; large shocks in Claudia Rodriguez. deco Centro Cultural Bella 1985 and 2017 brought down You’re not far from the Época. It’s one of the largest buildings and impacted the Parque España, the smaller bookshops in community. The area is still of two parks that provide and also holds events and recovering from the latter Condesa with a healthy dose film screenings. quake but a strong sense of of greenery. To reach it, exit Retrace your steps back togetherness and plenty of local right out of the café and take onto Alfonso Reyes and turn creative types are working hard an immediate left down Juan left. As you stroll along this to make sure it bounces back. de la Barrera. Enjoy a leisurely broad avenue, with its pretty

134 135 Mexico City Mexico City Walks— —Walks

Atlampa Address book

01 Café Nin 73 Havre, tktktk Buenavista +52 (55) 5207 7065 cafenin.com.mx Doctor Enrique Gonále Martíne 02 Marso 37 Berlín, tktktk +52 (55) 6276 2275 marso.com.mx

Avenida de los Insurgentes Sur Centro Histórico 03 Edificio Mascota Jose Rosas Moreno 3 Bucareli, tktktk

Polanco 04 Mercado de la Ciudadela Plaza de la Ciudadela, tktktk General Prim you’ll find the ideal lunch left onto Calle Doctor Enrique +52 (55) 5510 1828 spot. Amaya (see page tk) is González Martínez to find laciudadela.com.mx a convivial restaurant run by the Museo Universitario del 05 Proyecto Público Prim award-winning Mexican chef Chopo. This immense pavilion 30 Calle General Prim, Javier Tellez. Order the grilled was designed for a 1900 tktktk romaine lettuce with cashews exhibition in Germany and 06 Amaya and hummus and the fried dismantled and brought piece 95 Calle General Prim, Bucareli soft-shell crab. by piece back to Mexico. tktktk After lunch head to the end Carry on up the street and +52 (55) 5592 5571 Cuauhtémoc of the street and cross the busy upon a slight left at Calle amayamexico.com 07 El Eco thoroughfares of Paseo de la Salvador Díaz Mirón you’ll 43 Calle James Sullivan, Reforma (modelled after the emerge onto one of Mexico Roma Norte tktktk great European boulevards) City’s most atmospheric +52 (55) 5535 5186 and Avenida de los Insurgentes plazas, the Alameda de Santa eleco.unam.mx Sur onto Calle James Sullivan. María La Ribera. Find a bench 08 Galería Hilario Galguera Juárez to Santa María attraction here is the first Here you’ll find El Eco (see and admire the elaborate 3 Calle Francisco Juárez to La Ribera walk structure on your left, the gated page tk), a haven of peace and arabesques and lattice work Pimentel, tktktk Markets, squares and boulevards mews of Edificio Mascota. quiet. A gallery that mixes of the 11 Kiosco Morisco, its +52 (55) 5546 9001 Santa María This charming complex of visual arts with dance, music, Moorish-inspired design oddly galeriahilariogalguera.com Get an early start by grabbing apartments was developed poetry and theatre, it was out of place and yet at home 09 Casa de los Mascarones La Ribera a coffee and a freshly baked in 1912 by the founder of founded by the influential in this eclectic city landscape. 71 Avenida Ribera de San pastry at Café Nin (see Mexico’s then largest tobacco architect Mathias Goeritz College students, elderly Cosme, 06400 Creative quarters page tk) on Calle Havre in company, El Buen Tono, to in the 1950s. On Sundays, couples and dancing schools 10 Museo Universitario Juárez, which is set inside house its factory workers. Of the square in front of El Eco regularly congregate here to del Chopo To get a feel for Mexico City a redbrick townhouse. The special note are the mascarons plays host to Jardín del Arte, a while away an afternoon. Pick 10 Doctor Enrique during the dignified late 1800s street is peppered with elegant and florid typography adorning colourful open-air art market. one of the many local cafés that González Martínez, tktktk +52 (55) 5546 8490 and early 1900s, head to the mansions, many of which are each building. Turn right out of the surround the Alameda to end chopo.unam.mx neighbourhoods of Juárez and now home to creative hubs and Walk north up Bucareli and museum and then right again the day with a fresh michelada. 11 Kiosco Morisco Santa Maria La Ribera. pop-ups. From here, head left take a right on Emilio Donde on Calle Jose Rosas Moreno. Alameda de Santa María You’ll find streets lined with along Marsella, nipping down for a spot of retail therapy at Galería Hilario Galguera is La Ribera, tktktk stately century-old mansions, a Berlín to check out Marso, a the Mercado de la Ciudadela, a couple of blocks away and reminder of the area’s affluent contemporary-art gallery that an arts and crafts market. Pick represents contemporary artists past. At the turn of the 20th houses local artists’ workshops up some gifts or admire the such as Bosco Sodi, Daniel century, the city’s leading and resident studios. Pause (folk sculptures of Buren and Damien Hirst. intellectuals, artists, wealthiest on the corner of Berlín and fantastical creatures), textiles Continue north and turn citizens and revolutionaries Versalles to admire the neo- and ceramics. right on Avenida Ribera San would congregate in nearby gothic style of a Porfirian villa, Retrace your steps and turn Cosme, keeping your eyes cafés and newly minted now occupied by a hipster right on Calle General Prim, peeled for the Casa de los theatres – it was here that barber shop. stopping off at the impressive Mascarones on the corner. Mexico’s golden age of cinema Veer right from Marsella, Proyecto Público Prim, a This intricate colonial building was born. Today these colonias down Turín and left onto breathtaking colonial property dating from 1766 has housed feel deeply authentic, while still Avenida Bucareli. Once a renovated into a contemporary various educational institutions very much part of the city’s wide dotted with workspace and event venue. over the centuries. From here, urban gentrification. hundreds of ash trees, the Further along General Prim walk four blocks before turning

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