Mexico City Mexico City Walks— —Walks Centro Histórico walk find the equally mesmerising Centro Architecture, culture and cantinas fin-de-siècle Palacio Postal Address book Walks (see page tk). To the bottom left Histórico Start at the Hidalgo metro stop of the entrance you can see the 01 Laboratorio Arte — Stroll the city and walk towards the Alameda first brick used in construction, Alameda Heart of bold Central park. Turn right and stamped “14 September 1902”. 7 Calle Doctor Mora, head past the Centro Cultural Turn right on Tacuba for tktktk Sure, you could stay in a calm, José Martí – where you might a couple of blocks until you +52 (55) 3647 5660 artealameda.bellasartes. leafy neighbourhood such as spy a group of men outside reach the azulejo-laden Café gob.mx Condesa or up-and-coming playing chess – and you’ll soon ( ), housed Tacuba see page tk 02 Museo Mural Diego Santa María de la Ribera. But arrive at the Laboratorio in a 17th-century building. Rivera Yes, it’s vast and the miss the historic centre of Arte Alameda museum, housed Shoot south on Calle de 202 Balderas, tktktk traffic is crazy. But choose Mexico City at your peril. in the stunning former San Bolívar before turning left onto +52 (55) 1555 1900 your route wisely and a The streets pulsate to their Diego convent from 1621. Artículo 123, then head east for 03 Museo de Arte Popular walk in Mexico City will own tumultous rhythm and Keep walking then turn right three blocks. Take a moment 11 Revillagigedo, tktktk yield peaceful squares, are full of stunning (often down Cristóbal Colón and on the Museo de Arte Popular to marvel at the original +52 (55) 102 201 tucked-away streets and dilapidated) colonial buildings, the next corner you’ll find the (see page tk), an art deco Palacio de Hierro department map.cdmx.gob.mx wide boulevards lined with bustling bars and cantinas, a Museo Mural Diego Rivera. wonder that hosts a fun, folksy store before zipping left along 04 El Pescadito impressive edifices. plethora of cultural institutions It’s worth a visit to see the epic collection of Mexican art. Avenida 20 de Noviembre 57 Avenida We bring you four walks and bucketloads of history. mural, “Sueño de una Tarde All that culture has probably to find another old-world Independencia, tktktk that will take you past Alongside the taco stands, Dominical en la Alameda given you an appetite, so carry beauty, 11 Gran Hotel Ciudad +52 (55) 123 263 fascinating architecture, car dealerships and oddly Central” (see page tk). on down Independencia until de México. This department 05 Cantina Tío Pepe colourful markets, must- ubiquitous record stores, Head south on Balderas for you reach the epic lunchtime store turned hotel still boasts 26 Independencia, tktktk see museums and the best there’s also a new breed of a couple of blocks (past the spot that is El Pescadito (see its original stained-glass ceiling. 06 Torre Latinoamericana cafés, shops and cantinas. entrepreneur shaking things huge Mexican Scientology page tk). Don’t be put off by By now you should be Eje Central Lázaro And, being CDMX, there Cárdenas, tktktk up. This is the city’s heart, the building) then turn left onto the odd cellophane covering on the corner of the Zócalo, 07 Palacio de Bellas Artes will always be something seat of power and a backdrop Independencia. Continue on the plates or the inevitable with its huge flag and the Avenida Juárez, Esquina to surprise you. to the odd noisy protest or two. past the Teatro Metropólitan queue: these lip-smackingly hulking mass of the Catedral Eje Central, tktktk Embrace the chaos. on your right until you reach fresh fish tacos with generous Metropolitana (see page tk). +52 (55) 8647 6500 sides are worth the wait. Skirting the top of the square palacio.inba.gob.mx Now for a lunchtime treat near the latter is the Centro 08 Palacio Postal Guerrero (and we’re not talking dessert). Cultural España, a restored 1 Tacuba, tktktk Continue along Independencia historic building brimming +52 (55) 5340 3300 until you reach the corner with cultural offerings. You’re 09 Café de Tacuba of Dolores and Cantina also just steps away from the 28 Tacuba, tktktk Tío Pepe (see page tk), a divey Museo del Templo Mayor; +52 (55) 5521 2048 bar that has changed very little for a view of the incredible cafedetacuba.com.mx since it opened in 1890. There ruins of Tenochtitlán, take 10 El Palacio de Hierro are still bells in the booths that the bridge that runs above the 5 Avenida 20 de you can ring to order a drink. archaeological site. Acquaint Noviembre, tktktk Treat yourself to a cheeky yourself with the city’s Aztec +52 (55) 5728 9905 soytotalmentepalacio.com Hidalgo (East) Centro cervecita (beer). ancestors before nipping Tabacalera Calle de Tacuba 11 Gran Hotel Ciudad de Exit and continue along into the nearest cantina and Parque México Alameda Independencia, turning rewarding yourself with a 82 16 de Septiembre, left when you reach the smoky mezcalito. Avenida Juárez tktktk main intersection with Eje +52 (55) 1083 7700 Zócalo Central Lázaro Cárdenas. 12 Centro Cultural España Balderas Straight ahead you’ll see 18 República de Calle e ola the towering form of the Guatemala, tktktk Torre Latinoamericana (see +1 52 (55) 6592 9926 page tk), an iconic skyscraper ccemx.org dating from 1956. Visit the 13 Museo del Templo observation deck on the 44th Mayor floor for stunning views. 8 Seminario, tktktk Diagonally opposite is the +52 (55) 4040 5600 Palacio de Bellas Artes (see templomayor.inah.gob.mx page tk). Walk along the right- Doctores hand side of the Palacio and on the corner of Tacuba you’ll 130 131 Mexico City Mexico City Walks— —Walks Del Valle Address book 01 Viveros de Coyoacán Corner of Calle Madrid Viveros / Londres and Avenida México, Derechos Humanos tktktk Viveros de Gómez Farias Coyoacán 02 Café Ruta de la Seda 1 Aurora, tktktk Campestre Churubusco Campestre +52 (55) 3869 4888 caferutadelaseda.com Malintzin 03 Iglesia de la Inmaculada San Ángel Concepción Plaza de la Conchita, tktktk 04 Centro Cultural Iglesia de la Inmaculada serves towers of fresh ceviche Elena Garro Avenida Francisco Sosa Concepción (known as La piled onto maize tostadas. 43 Fernández Leal, tktktk Aurora Conchita) was ordered by Accompany them with agua +52 (55) 3003 4080 Spanish conquistador Hernán de jamaica (cold hibiscus tea). conaculta.gob.mx Presidente Carranza Cortés in the early 16th century Take the southern exit onto 05 Museo Frida Kahlo over what was a pre-Hispanic Malintzin and walk west until 247 Londres, tktktk site of worship and it’s one of you reach Fratelli. This +52 (55) 5554 5999 the oldest churches in the city. sunglasses shop features hard- museofridakahlo.org.mx Further north from the to-find brands such as Massada 06 Mercado Coyoacán square, along Fernández and Retrosuperfuture. Ignacio Allende, tktktk Leal, is Centro Cultural Retrace your steps, take the +52 (55) 4072 1596 07 Fratelli Elena Garro (see page tk). The first right, then take the second Ciudad Universitaria 199 Malintzin, 04100 bookshop is comprehensive left onto Callejon Belisario +52 (55) 7035 4255 but the architecture is equally Domínugez. You’ll soon reach Fratelli.com.mx impressive: a glass-and- Plaza Hidalgo, one the city’s 08 Mercado Artesanal Exit at the south gate and concrete structure imposed main squares. Locals flock here Mexicano Coyoacán take Avenida Progreso, which over a fin-de-sciècle heritage on the weekends to people- 25 Felipe Carrillo Puerto, branches off from the main building by architects watch and listen to live music. 04000 Village life street around the park. Cross Fernanda Canales and On the western side of +52 (55) 5588 4531 Avenida Francisco Sosa, Arquitectura 911sC. the square is the Mercado 09 Iglesia de San Juan Coyoacán can often feel a far head down Calle Presidente Continue up the road, turn Artesanal Mexicano, a quaint Bautista cry from the hustle of central Carranza and turn right at left on Avenida Miguel Hidalgo market selling typical Mexican 8 Plaza Centenario, tktktk CDMX. In this peaceful, leafy Pino. On the corner with and then take your first right. wares. On the southern side +52 (55) 5554 6376 neighbourhood, there’s a Aurora is Café Ruta de la Keeping walking up Gómes is the Iglesia de San Juan 10 La Cervecería de Barrio perpetual Sunday-morning feel. Seda, a humble joint that serves Farias for six blocks and turn Bautista, built in the new 9 Parque Centenario, The one-time village was delectable pastries and tartines left at Calle Londres, after the Spanish baroque style in 1550. tktktk briefly the capital of New (try the Reblochon and figs park. On the corner of Londres On the adjoining square +52 (55) 5554 6444 lacerveceriadebarrio.com. Spain following the Spanish variant); snag a table outside. and Ignacio Allende is the Parque Centenario, opposite mx conquest and was completely Exit right and walk along Museo Frida Kahlo (see page the church entrance, is 11 La Coyoacana separate from Mexico City cobbled street Aurora until you tk), also known as La Casa La Cervecería de Barrio, 14 Higuera, tktktk until it was incorporated in Coyoacán walk reach a small fountain. Take a Azul. The artist’s cobalt-blue a great place for a casual +52 (55) 5658 5337 1857. In the mid-20th century Weekend wander seat and observe the quaint, house and studio is a popular beer on the terrace. Behind lacoyoacana.com it was home to Frida Kahlo, historic houses around you.