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Mount Rainier : a Record of Exploration

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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 Mount Rainier THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO DALLAS ATLANTA SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., LIMITED LONDON BOMBAY CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, LTD. TORONTO ( . t . * Mount Rainier. JSL- Record of Exploration to* Edited by Edmond 6". Meany in the President The Mountainttrt Profetsor of History University of Washington. of " " Sound Author of Vancouver^ Discovery of Puget " History of the State of Washington," etc. New Tork The Macmillan Company 1916 : .<-. reserved . ^tll . rights \^4tt t *' EP -a / COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1916. J. 8. Gushing Co. Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Maas., U.S.A. TCo GENERAL HAZARD STEVENS EARLY LOVER OF THE MOUNTAIN, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED PREFACE MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK is visited annually by increasing thousands of tourists. Many of them seek information about the discoveries and explorations of the mountain and its environs. Much of the information sought, especially that about the origin of place names, has never been published. The annals of discovery and ex- ploration, which have been published, have often appeared in books, pamphlets, or periodicals not easily accessible. It is the purpose of this work to gather the essential por- tions of the desired information within a compact, usable form. During the summer of 1915, the mountain was for the first time encircled by a large company of travelers. Small parties, carrying their luggage and provisions on their backs, had made the trip a number of times. The Moun- taineers Club, in 1915, conducted a party of one hundred, with fully equipped pack train and commissary, around the mountain. They camped each evening at or near the snow-line. At the daily campfires extracts were read from the original sources of the mountain's history. The interest there manifested in such records gave additional impulse to the preparation of this book. It is natural that the chronological order should be chosen in arranging the materials, beginning with the dis- covery and naming of the mountain by Captain George Vancouver of the British Navy. The records are then con- tinued to the present time. There still remains to be done much scientific work on the glaciers, snowfields, rocks, and plants within the Park. It is hoped that this book may stimulate such field work as well as the publication of the results. PREFACE The reader will notice that several writers in referring to the mountain use some1 form of the name Tacoma. The editor has not hesitated to publish such names as were used in the original articles here reproduced. In all other cases he has used the name Mount Rainier, approved by the United States Geographic Board. In the separate chapters it will be noticed that the height of the mountain has been placed at varying figures. The United States Geological Survey has spoken on this sub- official as ject with apparent finality, giving the altitude 14,408 feet above sea level. How this height was deter- mined is told in the official announcement reproduced in Chapter XVIII of the text, with comment thereon by F. E. Matthes, one of the engineers of the United States Geological Survey. The place names within the Park have been derived from such varied sources that it is well-nigh impossible to ascertain the origin and meaning of all of them. For the first time they are here (Chapter XIX) gathered into a complete alphabetical arrangement with as full informa- tion as is now available. The writer would welcome further facts about any of the names. In the introductory paragraphs before each chapter, the editor has sought to express his acknowledgment for assist- ance rendered by others in the compilation of the work. For fear some may have been omitted he wishes here to express gratitude for all such help and to mention especially Professor J. Franklin Jameson, Director of the Depart- ment of Historical Research of the Carnegie Institution of Washington, for his assistance in securing photostat reproductions of a number of rare items found in the Library of Congress. The editor also acknowledges the assistance rendered by Victor J. Farrar, research assistant in the University of Washington. EDMOND S. MEANY. UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON, Seattle, August, 1916. viii CONTENTS CHAPTER PACK I. THE MOUNTAIN DISCOVERED AND NAMED, 1792 . i By Captain George Vancouver, R.N. II. FIRST APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAIN, 1833 6 By Doctor William Fraser Tolmie. III. FIRST RECORDED TRIP THROUGH NACHES PASS, 1841 13 By Lieutenant Robert E. Johnson, U.S.N., of the Wilkes Expedition. IV. TACOMA AND THE INDIAN LEGEND OF HAMITCHOU . 34 By Theodore Winthrop. V. FIRST ATTEMPTED ASCENT, 1857 .... 73 By Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, U.S.A. VI. FIRST SUCCESSFUL ASCENT, 1870 .... 94 By General Hazard Stevens. VII. INDIAN WARNING AGAINST DEMONS .... 132 By Sluiskin, Indian Guide. VIII. SECOND SUCCESSFUL ASCENT, 1870 .... 135 By S. F. Emmons. IX. EXPLORATIONS ON THE NORTHERN SLOPES, 1881-1883 142 By Bailey Willis. X. DISCOVERY OF CAMP MUIR, 1888 . .150 By Major E. S. Ingraham. XI. EXPLORING THE MOUNTAIN AND ITS GLACIERS, 1896 159 By Professor I. C. Russell. CONTENTS XII. MCCLURE'S ACHIEVEMENT AND TRAGIC DEATH, 1897 183 By Herbert L. Bruce and Professor H. H. McAlister. XIII. FIELD NOTES ON MOUNT RAINIER, 1905 . 194 By Professor Henry Landes. XIV. GLACIERS OF MOUNT RAINIER . .201 By F. E. Matthes. XV. THE ROCKS OF MOUNT RAINIER . .- . .241 By George Otis Smith. XVI. THE FLORA OP MOUNT RAINIER .... 254 By Professor Charles V. Piper. XVII. CREATION OF MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK . 287 Memorial by Scientific Societies. XVIII. MOUNT RAINIER is 14,408 FEET HIGH . 297 By the United States Geological Survey XIX. PLACE NAMES AND ELEVATIONS IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 302 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS First Picture of Mount Rainier. Drawn by W. Alexander, from a sketch by J. Sykes, 1792. Engraved by J. Landseer for Vancouver's Journal . Frontispiece PACK Captain George Vancouver, Royal Navy i Doctor William Fraser Tolmie ..... 6 Commander Charles Wilkes, United States Navy . 13 Theodore Winthrop, from the Rowse Crayon Portrait . 34 General August Valentine Kautz, United States Army . 73 General Hazard Stevens ....... 94 Samuel Franklin Emmons . .135 Bailey Willis, from Photograph taken in 1883 . 142 Major Edward Sturgis Ingraham . .150 Professor Israel Cook Russell . .159 Professor Edgar McClure . .183 Professor Henry Landes . .194 Francois Emile Matthes . .201 George Otis Smith . .241 Professor Charles Vancouver Piper . .254 Peter Rainier, Admiral of the Blue, Royal Navy . 302 CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. Royal Navy. MOUNT RAINIER A RECORD OF EXPLORATIONS I. THE MOUNTAIN DISCOVERED AND NAMED, 1792 BY CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER, R.N. CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER, the great English navigator and explorer, lived but forty years, from 1758 to 1798. He entered the British navy on the Resolution under Captain James Cook in 1771 and was with that even more famous explorer during his second and third voyages, from 1772 to 1780. He was placed in command of the Discovery and Chatham in 1791 and sent to the northwest coast of America. On this voyage he discovered and named Puget Sound and many other geographic features on the western coast of America. The portions of his Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean, giving the record of his discovery, naming, and explora- tion in the vicinity of Mount Rainier, are taken from Volume II of the second edition, published in London in 1801, pages 79, 118, and 134-138. [Tuesday, May 8, 1792.] The weather was serene and pleasant, and the country continued to exhibit, between us and the eastern snowy range, the same luxuriant appearance. At its northern extremity, Baker bore N. 22 E. the round mount by compass ; snowy mountain, now forming its southern extremity, and which, after my friend Rear Admiral Rainier, I distinguished by the name of MOUNT RAINIER, bore N. [SJ 42 E. [Saturday, May 19, 1792.] About noon, we passed an inlet on the larboard or eastern shore, which seemed to stretch far the as it of the to northward ; but, was out MOUNT RAINIER line of our intended pursuit of keeping the continental shore on board, I continued our course up the main inlet, which now extended as far as, from the deck, the eye could reach, though, from the mast-head, intervening land appeared, beyond which another high round moun- tain covered with snow was discovered, apparently situated several leagues to the south of mount Rainier, and bearing by compass S. 22 E. This I considered as a further extension of the eastern but the snowy range ; intermediate mountains, connecting it with mount Rainier, were not sufficiently high to be seen at that distance. [Saturday, May 26, 1792.] Towards noon we landed on a point on the eastern shore, whose latitude I ob- served to be 47 21', round which we flattered ourselves we should find the inlet take an extensive eastwardly course. This conjecture was supported by the appear- ance of a very abrupt division in the snowy range of mountains immediately to the south of mount Rainier, which was very conspicuous from the ship, and the main arm of the inlet appearing to stretch in that direc- tion from the point we were then upon. We here dined, and although our repast was soon concluded, the delay was irksome, as we were excessively anxious to ascertain the truth, of which we were not long held in suspense. For haying passed round the point, we found the inlet to terminate here in an extensive circular compact bay, whose waters washed the base of mount Rainier, though its elevated summit was yet at a very considerable distance from the shore, with which it was connected by several ridges of hills rising towards it with gradual ascent and much regularity.
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