Rainy Day Hikes, p.28 Ski the Methow Valley, p.30 Bats, p.44 WASHINGTON TRAILS

November + December 2009 » A Publication of Washington Trails Association www.wta.org » $4.50

Snowshoe Baker

PLUS: Prevent Hypothermia Discover Norway’s Jotunheimen Take the Kids Out in the Snow » Table of Contents

Nov+Dec 2009 Volume 45, Issue 6 News + Views The Front Desk » Elizabeth Lunney WTA holds steady through tough economic times. » p.4

The Signpost » Lace Thornberg Volunteer effort makes these pages great. » p.5

Trail Talk » Letters from our readers on fording, accessible trails and thanks. » p.6 Hiking News » 10 Monte Cristo clean-up, National Park issues and more. » p.8 Inge Johnsson WTA at Work Trail Work » Diane Bedell How WTA decides where to work (and no, it’s not darts). » p.12 Action for Trails » Jonathan Guzzo A look at trails from a legislative point of view. » p.16 28 Membership News » Rebecca Lavigne Ten utterly stellar hikers who support WTA. » p.18 On Trail Northwest Explorer » John D’Onofrio After a day on snowshoes, try a night at Artist Point. » p. 19 Further Afield » Dave Jette Take a nine-day tour of Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park. » p. 24 Pam Roy Feature » Pam Roy Rain happens. You can’t just stay home all the time. » p. 28 Feature » Danica Kaufman Skiing from Winthrop to Mazama and points between. » p. 30 Backcountry The Gear Closet » Allison Woods Rain gear that you can take anywhere. » p.31 Youth & Families » Chris Wall Nine fun games to add to your snow days. » p.34 How to Do It » Tom Milne Prevent hypothermia first and treat it if you have to. »p.36 Take a Hike » Select trip reports from across the state. » p. 37 Methow Valley Sport30 Trails Association Nature on Trail » Sylvia Feder Bats are strange and wonderful. » p. 44 This Month’s Cover » Photo by Dave Schiefelbein Camping on snow with a great view of Mount Baker A Walk on the Wild Side » Hiking haikus. » p.46 www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails About Us « 3

Washington Trails 2019 Third Avenue, WASHINGTON TRAILS Owner & Publisher Suite 100 WASHINGTON TRAILS ASSOCIATION Seattle, WA 98121 ASSOCIATION Interim Editor 206.625.1367 BOARD OF DIRECTORS LACE THORNBERG Gear Editor www.wta.org President ALLISON WOODS Washington Trails CRAIG MCKIBBEN, Seattle Editorial Interns VP, Advocacy Association is a volunteer- KIM BROWN, ELEANOR PACHAUD driven nonprofit member- DAVID SCHOENBORN, Vancouver Copy Editors VP, Board Development ship organization working STEVE BRIEN, JIM CAVIN, to preserve, enhance and MICHELE COAD, Seattle REBECCA KETTWIG, INGRID HANSEN VP, Fundraising & Membership promote hiking oppor- MELISSA STRAUCH, Seattle WTA STAFF tunities in Washington state through collabora- Treasurer Executive Director tion, education, advocacy DOUG BRECKEL, Seattle ELIZABETH LUNNEY and trail maintenance. Secretary Advocacy Director ROB SHURTLEFF, Seattle JONATHAN GUZZO Washington Trails Bookkeeper Association was founded DEB HEMINGWAY by Louise B. Marshall AT-LARGE DIRECTORS Communications & Outreach Director (1915–2005). Ira Spring CAROLE BIANQUIS, Seattle LAUREN BRADEN (1918–2003) was its LISA BLACK, Everett Development Director primary supporter. Greg JEFF CHAPMAN, Port Townsend REBECCA LAVIGNE Ball (1944–2004) founded KIRK CLOTHIER, Seattle Field Director the volunteer trail main- LANGDON COOK, Seattle ALAN CARTER MORTIMER tenance program. Their TODD DUNFIELD, Spokane Membership Manager spirit continues today DAVE EGAN, Fall City KARA CHIN through contributions TIM GOULD, Seattle Office Manager from thousands of WTA WENDY WHEELER JACOBS, Sammamish HOLLY CHAMBERS members and volunteers. RICHARD JOHNSON, Sammamish Outreach Coordinator KATHLEEN LEARNED, Seattle KINDRA RAMOS CHAD LEWIS, Tacoma Project Coordinator DAMIEN MURPHY, Redmond TIM VAN BEEK KATE ROGERS, Seattle Southwest Washington Regional Coordinator STEPHEN TAN, Seattle RYAN OJERIO Trail Programs Director DIANE BEDELL WTA Advisory Board Volunteer Coordinator Susan Ball, Ron Barensten, Mark Boyar, ALYSSA KREIDER Joan Burton, Bill Chapman, Karl Forsgaard, Youth Programs Coordinator WTA has earned Kevin Hall, Ken Konigsmark, Ken Mondal, KRISTA DOOLEY Charity Navigator’s Tom Lucas, Margaret Macleod, Susan Saul, Youth Programs Specialist highest rating three John Spring CHRIS WALL years in a row. Washington Trails is Volume 45, Issue 6 printed on recycled paper (interior pages, 30 Washington Trails (ISSN 1534-6366) is published bimonthly by percent post-consumer the Washington Trails Association, 2019 Third Ave., Suite 100, waste, cover, 12.5 per- Seattle, WA 98121. Annual membership dues, which include cent) and printed using a subscription to Washington Trails magazine, are $35. Single WTA is a member copy price is $4.50. Periodicals postage paid at Seattle, WA. soy-based inks. organization of POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Washington Trails © 2009 Washington Trails Association Magazine, 2019 Third Ave., Suite 100, Seattle, WA 98121 EarthShare Washington.

4 November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org News+Views The Front Desk » Moving Forward in Uncertain Times As the rains begin to roll in on the Pacific In early fall, we broke the past year’s record Northwest, it’s hard not to think back to previ- for volunteer hours. Our website traffic has ous winter storms and the devastation that doubled in a mere twelve months, and we’ve we’ve seen as a result. Take a drive through the been able to pilot a new youth program that Darrington Ranger District or the southern Gif- helps urban community groups teach their chil- ford Pinchot, and you’ll eventually hit a washed- dren how to hike. out road. At Mount Rainier, WTA volunteers have spent the summer helping reroute the WTA works because hikers support what we Glacier Basin Trail to bring it up out of harm’s do, through membership dues and special con- way, should the White River jump its banks tributions. That kind of financial base is what again. Five, six, seven years later, flood recov- has earned WTA a four-star rating from Char- ery continues. ity Navigator three years in a row. It is what enabled us, at the beginning of the year, to This year, the American Recovery and Rein- commit to more than 800 days of work on trail. vestment Act (ARRA) has brought millions of It ensured that when budget cuts were on the dollars to local parks and forests, and much of table for state parks and other agencies, WTA this money will go toward backlogged flood could be there to stand up for hikers. projects and other long-standing maintenance needs that have been simply beyond the reach The world, as we have seen over the past of agency budgets and existing volunteer few years, is full of surprises. One hundred year programs. Provided that this winter serves us floods every year or two. A stock market dive up nothing worse, hikers should have an easier that fulfilled all of my grandfather’s dire predic- time making their way through the mountains tions. But some surprises come with delight next summer. and that is what makes an uncertain future one worth living. A beautiful sunrise is all that Meanwhile, this great fortune comes to us much better when it takes your breath away. courtesy of a global economic crisis whose aftershocks are still being felt throughout the I have hiked this summer looking for those region. Like many nonprofits across the country, little surprises. Many of those miles were on WTA is seeing members who have lost their trails maintained by WTA. And some of my jobs or who are having to scale back their giv- happiest encounters were with the WTA mem- ing because of other financial pressures. bers and volunteers I met along the way. I am grateful for all that you give. Elizabeth We haven’t set any fundraising records this Lunney year, but we have been able to continue to de- Executive Director liver solid programs, thanks in large part to the [email protected] steadfast support of members like you. www.wta.org www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails News+Views « 5

The Signpost » News+Views

Mount Rainier looming behind Grand Park (featured in a trip report on page 42). Photo by Susan Mozer. For the Love of the Game When people ask, “Were you born in a barn?” And then there’s Allison Woods, our volun- it’s typically an insult. teer gear editor for ten years running. She’s always got an eye out for the latest trends in However, because Washington Trails was gear design so that you, dear reader, can enjoy actually born in a barn, I’d like to think it could the finest hiking and backpacking gear that be a compliment. Our first issue of Washington there is. Trails (which was called Signpost way back when) came to life in a red barn with white This is the kind of service you just can’t pay trim in bucolic Lynnwood. Over the forty years for. Which is good, because we don’t. I checked since that issue, Washington Trails has con- when I started as editor and my budget for tinued to be a homegrown publication with freelance writing was exactly $0. Freelance dozens of committed volunteer contributors. photography? Also $0.

In our last issue, we featured two huckleber- Volunteer contributions make each issue of ry recipes contributed by Sarah Kirkconnell, the Washington Trails a rich and fulfilling read. In author of Trail Food Made Simple. They were a this issue, you’ll enjoy John D’Onofrio’s snow- hit, so I asked her if she would like to continue shoeing advice, Pam Roy’s recommended rainy submitting recipes. day hikes, Dave Schiefelbein’s photographs, Dave Jette’s detailed itinerary from Norway Lace She replied in nanoseconds: “I would love and whole lot more. All of these pieces were to do it. The next issue is for cold weather, donated by these WTA members, given out of Thornberg right? How about a harvest-inspired pasta and their sheer love for the outdoors, for writing, for Interim Editor a hearty chowder? I have the perfect recipes, photography, and sharing all that with fellow [email protected] never published before as well. I will go find outdoor enthusiasts like you. the recipes, make sure they are written cor- rectly and get them your way in a jiffy.” On this issue’s last page, you will find hiking haikus contributed by various WTA members. Volunteer writer Sylvia Feder contributed It’s my hope that readers will continue to play a great piece on bats for this issue and then a large role in each issue of Washington Trails, offered to become a volunteer illustrator, too. so please watch for opportunities to share your To discuss this and After the best bat photograph we could rustle opinions, your favorite trails and your hiking other issues online, up was a frightful shot of three sad little bats advice in coming issues. visit the Signpost in a cage, I asked if her offer to illustrate still Blog stood and her answer was “No problem. I’ll do at www.wta.org/ it tonight.” blog/. 6 » News+Views November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Trail Talk »

Lettersyou and about the same level as your down- More on Fording The stream foot. Make sure it’s secure against the information Dear Editor: bottom and can hold your weight. about“ the I read the monthly issue of the WTA re- Then you can shift the upstream foot and cross-section ligiously and this month was no different. then the downstream foot, and then the rod and vertical But I have to take issue with the article, again. Always secure your foot with each move so it can, if necessary, hold you against the differences in “Ford a River,” about fording a creek or river. For reasons I don’t understand, flow. the velocity are myths about fording a river persist in the correct, kudos recreation and hiking community and were You want to always maintain balance with repeated in this article. your feet; the wading rod is extra for stability to the author, and lets you move each foot. The John Muir but I wouldn’t And my complaints? rule (for me): rest going across if necessay. consider it a Standing in the middle of a river is nice and you can catch your breath, balance, energy and universal rule. Well, for one, any hiker will never encounter “laminar” flow in any creek or focus. river. It’s almost always turbulent flow. —Scott Knowles” The information about the cross-section Keep your eyes on the opposite bank and up- and vertical differences in the velocity are stream ahead of you. You’re looking for changes correct, kudos to the author, but I wouldn’t in the flow conditions, both depth and velocity. consider it a univeral rule. You have to understand the creek or river. Personally, I would never recommend loosen- ing the pack. It’s part of your weight distribu- I will provide the practice as used by tion. I would release the chest clip between the the U.S. Geological Survey with their shoulder straps and know how to release the streamgaging technique measuring rivers. belt quickly. My view is that you don’t want anything shifting on your back and changing You should pick the widest place with your balance. the most consistent depth that you can see, which is usually found in reaches be- The rule of thumb is that most people can tween curves or bends in creeks or rivers. wade a stream factor of 6 to 8 depending on Never wade across a cut bank; the oppo- your size, weight and fitness. This factor is the site bank is where the deepest and fastest deepest depth times the fastest velocity (e.g., water will be. 2-foot depth times 4 feet per second is 8). This would be the upper margin for a normal person Always face the opposite bank, keeping with a pack. The USGS used a factor 10 but we your body parallel to the flow. This puts all didn’t wade with backpacks. the water against your upstream leg. It’s harder, but you have both your other leg The velocity can be determined with the ob- and your wading rod to make yourself a vious object floating in the river in several plac- tripod. es in the cross-section. Sticks do nicely.Depths are harder but you can estimate them reason- This is where the myth of facing the ably well in many cases. The point is that if the Write to Us » flow is wrong and doesn’t give you an out number is too high, find another place. Send a letter to if you lose your balance—except falling 2019 Third Ave. over. Being parallel provides the balance in Another rule of thumb is don’t wade when Suite 100, the back leg/foot and stick. it’s too far above your knees unless it’s slow (3 Seattle WA 98121 feet per second or slower) or you have experi- or Keep the weight of the pack over your ence wading. This is important if you find the e-mail hips, which means leaning forward a little. depth increasing near the middle of the stream. [email protected] It’s about being centered over your feet. If your feet begin to move underneath you, Always put the wading stick ahead of common with moving bedload, don’t lift your www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails News+Views « 7

feet, slide or waddle to find a secure place or Another would have the reverse. across the stream. If you must, start moving downstream. We only did this in the area within an You decide! hour’s drive of Seattle. We were specifi- Don’t wade around boulders: the flow around cally looking for places that a wheelchair them is usually faster and deeper above and could access for plein air painting. Still, Letters below the boulder. If you have to wade across the variances were amazing and nowhere a boulder stream, always wade above the documented. The designation “wheelchair boulder. The flow around, over and below often accessible” for trails and bathrooms was scours holes below. much too general and, as I said, confused. The general hiking books often list dis- Whatever you do, if you get stuck, just back- tance and elevation gains/losses, and some up like you went forward. Do not turn around, have a little graph showing the series of period. Always keep your body parallel. elevation changes. It is in a form of mini- malist shorthand but is very useful. I hope If it’s a high-elevation, snowfed stream, re- that when you work on these issues you Vote for member if the streamflow was low in the morn- consider this informational component in ing, it’s likely to be higher later in the day from your publications. The abilities/needs are the Hiker’s the diurnal, upstream snowmelt. so varied and it requires scouting trips to Choice find the areas like the ones you are work- If you plan to cross a number of streams, con- ing on. Award for sider wading cleats (simliar to crampons but for Northwest rivers) or lightweight fishing boots with nonslip Thanks for your efforts, soles. You can always stash them when across Exposure and pick them up on the way back. Trish Rogers Help judge the WTA’s Bellevue, WA Northwest Exposure Otherwise the article was typically excellent. photo contest this year And for what’s it worth, all my experience was by picking the winning from twenty-eight years as a hydrologist with Offbeat photo. The the USGS, half in the field measuring a lot of Trail Thank You top ten photos will be streams and rivers (Ore., Ariz. and Wash.) and posted online for hikers fly-fishing more streams (Colo., Ariz., Ore. and Dear Editor: to judge which is the Wash.). And we had chest waders or hip boots best, wackiest picture and cleats. On Monday, August 24, I took a day hike from Washington’s alone to Melakwa Lake (very beautiful) backcountry. Take care and keep up the great work. and then up to Melakwa Pass (nice views of Chair and Gem Lakes). The scree below Scott M. Knowles the pass is filled with very sharp rocks. Voting will be online Gig Harbor, WA As I walked down the scree I kept telling at www.wta.org from myself to go slow, to be careful, to set my November 9 to 19. The foot on a solid base. But I stumbled near winning photo will be Accessible Trails the bottom and did a somersault, catching published in the Janu- my lower right arm on a sharp rock and ary / February magazine Dear Editor: putting a 4 inch gash in it. After stopping along with all the other the blood flow, I walked to the lake and winning photos. Don’t Hi, I was just reading Eleanor Pachaud’s ar- found two gentlemen, one named Glen I miss your chance to ticle, July/Aug ’09. I have not read your “Acces- think, both from Seattle, who offered to check out Offbeat Out- sible Trails in Washington’s Backcountry” book help cover the wound more securely. They doors and choose your so perhaps this observation is redundant. assisted me in securing another gauze pad favorite photo. t to the wound, Glen using some of his mole- Five or more years ago my husband and I skin for the purpose. did an unofficial survey of bathrooms at state I just want to thank both of them for Above: Chris Feet’s and other parks and trailheads for a friend who their kindness and generosity, which was photo of buoy bowl- had become wheelchair bound. We were aided greatly appreciated. I walked out on my ing took top honors by a booklet from the state disabilities office, I own and went directly to the emergency in WTA’s last photo think. Anyway, what we learned was that there room at the Snoqualmie Valley Hospital. contest. are different definitions of accessibility depend- The wound is healing nicely. Thanks again ing on which year a facility was built because to Glen and his hiking partner! of the changing official definitions. It was amazing. For example, one would have wide Jim Rettig doors but difficult to access paths to the door. Woodinville, WA 8 » News+Views November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Karen Sykes and Lola Kemp about to explore the Monte Cristo townsite. Photo by Steve Payne.

Trail News » Monte Cristo Cleanup Share your opinion on the Monte Cristo mining area cleanup options

At Barlow Pass, off the Mountain Loop High- ments gathered before, during, and following way, a closed road travels southward along the the meeting and consider them in the final South Fork Sauk River through one of Wash- preparation of the Engineering Evaluation and ington's most scenic backcountry areas. Hikers Cost Analysis (EECA). This report will propose walk this road regularly to access Gothic Basin, clean-up actions to address hazardous substanc- Poodle Dog Pass and Glacier Basin. es and be posted for a 30-day public review. “Cleanup could start as early as next year, Before there were hikers here, there were depending on the funding process,” said Peter miners. The Monte Cristo townsite was an ac- Forbes, Darrington district ranger. tive mining operation from 1889 to 1907. Nearly 280,000 tons of ore containing gold, silver, cop- The Forest Service began a Comprehensive per, lead and zinc was extracted from the sur- Environmental Response, Compensation, and Li- rounding hills and mountains during this time. ability Act (CERCLA) investigation in 2002. Site inspections found a number of contaminants, Today, in addition to numerous abandoned primarily metals, in the surface water, sedi- mines and other facilities, the hillsides above ment, waste rock, tailings, and soils, exceeding Glacier Creek also host mounded heaps of Model Toxics Control Act values. An interesting tailings—mine processing refuse—lying under aspect of the CERCLA process is that the public roughly four to six inches of soil. Studies of cannot appeal activity conducted under CER- a small stream that drains a dumpsite above CLA, nor can they file a lawsuit until the project Glacier Creek indicate greater than expected is complete. conductivity that may be due to minerals leach- ing from tailings. Specialists on the Forest are However the cleanup proceeds, a new road concerned that continuing heavy weather in will be built to bring in equipment needed for the Cascades may leach out more toxics buried the cleanup. The new road will go over the old Lace below the surface. For the benefit of the public puncheon road that leads into Monte Cristo and and the wildlife that call this area home, resto- is currently hiked. Thornberg ration work is needed. Interim Editor It's important for hikers to have input on the [email protected] The Darrington Ranger District is in the ini- cleanup process as it unfolds, as some of our tial planning stage for a clean-up at the Monte favorite trails could be impacted by roadbuild- Cristo site. Seeking input on the proposed ing or other associated activities. If you have clean-up alternatives, the District held a public any questions about the meeting, please don't meeting on September 28, 2009 in Darrington. hesitate to contact WTA’s Advocacy Director Approximately 30 citizens attended. Jonathan Guzzo at 206.625.1367 or via email at [email protected]. t The Forest Service will evaluate the com- www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails News+Views « 9 Seasonal Closures on Department of Natural Resources Recreation Areas Manning Statue A number of Washington Department of Natural Resources recreation areas have closed or will close soon and will remain closed through the Dedicated winter. Other areas will be reducing services due to cuts in the current budget. Seasonal closures or reduced services will take place in the following counties: • Clark and Skamania counties: Yacolt Burn State Forest in the Dougan Creek Campground will close for the season November 1. The Jones Creek ORV trail system and all trails in Yacolt are closed to motorized use from December 1 through March 31. • Cowlitz County: Merrill Lake closes November 15 and reopens around April 15, depending on snow. • Grant County: Beverly Sand Dunes will close for the season No- vember 15 and re-open March 15, 2010. • Grays Harbor and Thurston counties: The following areas in Capitol Forest will close for the season from December 1 – May 1: Margaret McKenny, Middle Waddell Off-road Vehicle (ORV), Mima Falls, Sherman Valley, North Creek, Fall Creek, and Porter Creek campgrounds. Middle Waddell ORV, Rock Candy, and Fall Creek trailheads. Photo by Larry Hanson. • King County: Tiger Summit Trailhead closes October 15. DNR is On September 20, 2009, a bronze statue of considering leaving the multi-use, non-motorized trails open until Harvey Manning was dedicated alongside the November 1, depending on weather and trail conditions. Be sure to Issaquah Trails Clubhouse in downtown Is- check the website for closure information. saquah. The Issaquah Alps Trails Club (IATC) • Kitsap County: Green Mountain Campground gate (GM-1) generally hosted the event to coincide with the thirty- closes from October 16 through May 31. Area is open year-round for year anniversary of its founding by Manning. walk-in access. • Mason County: In the Tahuya State Forest, Camp Spillman and IATC President Steve Williams called Harvey Kammenga Campground closes October 15. (These campgrounds “our own local John Muir.” Penelope Manning will be closed indefinitely due to budget cuts.) spoke eloquently of her father’s contributions, • Snohomish County: Morningstar Natural Resources Conserva- reminding the crowd of listeners of his part in tion Area, DNR staff will remove amenities such as toilets due to saving the Issaquah Alps and Cougar Mountain budget cuts. Road access will change as well. Check the Northwest Regional Wildland Park, plus the creation of Region recreation web page for details. North Cascades National Park, the Washington • Yakima County: Effective November 15, Snow Cabin and Ahtanum Wilderness Act and the Mountains to Sound Meadows campgrounds in the Ahtanum State Forest will be closed Greenway. Doug McClelland, of the Department indefinitely due to budget cuts. of Natural Resources, spoke of being given a Check DNR's webpage before you head out to hike or camp for info on list of future projects by Harvey to be carried closures and reduced services. Some areas may have locked gates and out later. Harvey was described as an author, fewer or no amenities, such as toilets. However, the public can still access an agitator, an advocate, and an activist. areas beyond locked gates by foot. The statue’s creative artists, Lateral Line Editor’s Note: See the articles on pages 16-17 in this issue for informa- sculptor Sara Johani and sculptor and bronze tion about Hiker Lobby Day in February 2010 where WTA will be fighting worker Tom Jay, spoke of their collaboration for support for DNR lands. with Manning’s widow Betty, his daughters Penelope, Claudia, and Rebecca, his son Paul and grandson Dylan.

Donors to the $65,000 project included Wash- ington Trails Association, the North Cascades Conservation Council and the Mountaineers Foundation, as well as individual contributors. Nineteen donors who gave $1,000 or more are A Short Manual for Trail Building and Maintenance listed on a nearby plaque. With TEXT, DRAWINGS and ADVICE Chapters on Basics, Structures and More The statue rests on boulders moved from the Signed First edition, just $8.00 (plus shipping & handling) Manning’s own land on Cougar Mountain. A plaque fixed to the base reads “Harvey Man- To order, contact: [email protected] ning, 1925-2006. Champion of the Issaquah Pete Dewell, 2425 33rd Ave. W #402, Seattle, WA 98199 Alps.” t —Joan Burton 10 » News+Views November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org Wilderness, Visited The National Park Service’s difficult mission

Innovation and optimism help define the American spirit, and nothing exemplifies either better than wilderness. The United States was the first nation to create a system recognizing the intrin- sic value of primeval landscapes, the first to legislate the hope that its citizens are best served by withdrawing from any truly practical use certain places where “the earth and community of life are untrammeled by man.”

Since the passage of the Wilderness Act in 1964, over 109 million acres in 46 states have been declared off-limits to motorized transport and physical or commercial development. At least seven other nations have modeled their own laws on the Act. Several other countries have created admin- istrative zoning programs to achieve the same protections.

This trend masks the fact that wilderness wasn’t always held in high regard. Medieval bibles warn of the godlessness of places uninhabited and undeveloped. European colonists to the New World, even as they overcame their fear of such places, continued to look upon them with disdain.

The late 1800s saw attitudes begin to shift, a transformation described by Roderick Nash in his classic 1967 work, “Wilderness and the American Mind.” The poetry of Ralph Waldo Emerson, the paintings of Thomas Cole, Thomas Moran and Albert Bierstadt, and the essays of Henry David Tho- reau and John Muir helped elevate wilderness from wasteland to sacred ideal.

But while wilderness may have captured Americans’ collective imagination, it struggled to find its way into land use policy. More than a century after American independence, wilderness remained something to be tamed if not conquered outright. It was given away, or nearly so, in exchange for the mere promise to settle and develop it. Well into the twentieth century, its value derived prin- cipally from the ore and timber that could be extracted from it. Even today, the debate over how, whether, and which pristine lands should be set aside is as fierce as ever.

This tension is the subject of John C. Miles’s new book “Wilderness in National Parks: Playground or Preserve” (University of Washington Press, 2009), a comprehensively documented account of the National Park Service’s establishment in 1916 and its lifelong struggle to reconcile the often conflict- ing elements of its mission.

Utilitarian thinking dominated the conservation movement of the late nineteenth and early twen- tieth centuries. Gifford Pinchot, the first chief of the U.S. Forest Service, made multiple use—the idea that the same land can serve several simultaneous, often conflicting, purposes—the hallmark of that

Moonrise over Hurri- cane Ridge, Olympic Wilderness. Photo by Ken Baker.

Stephen Tan

Stephen is a WTA board member from Seattle. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails News+Views « 11 agency and sought to extend that ideology to all aspects of public land management.

In his campaign to bring national parks under direct Forest Service supervision, though, Pinchot overstepped. The possibility that land within national parks could be mined or logged spurred a backlash and a movement to create a federal agency to oversee park lands. By the time the Park Service was established in 1916, it was unquestioned that the preservation of landscapes “unimpaired” by man would be an essential component of the new agency’s mis- sion.

Still, it was left to the Park Service to decide how to balance preservation against such other components of its mission as public use and “economic considerations.” As Professor Miles recounts, the agency tended, particularly in its early years, to “think of wilderness as what was left over after planning for development.” The Park Service has also been willing to Mount Rainier Na- The Park Service’s seeming indifference to adapt its land management practices to reflect tional Park in late preservation continued even as support grew new scientific knowledge. After witnessing how summer. Photo by in the early 1960s for a national wilderness government flood control projects constructed Kevin McNeal. law. Publicly, it challenged the proposed law as in South Florida in the 1950s and 1960s threat- unnecessary. Privately, it considered the law a ened to dry up the “river of grass” forming the threat to its autonomy. Even after the Wilder- Everglades, the agency more fully appreciated ness Act was enacted, the agency often balked how activities occurring outside park boundar- at implementing it. In the last few decades, it ies could affect the ecological health of lands has largely removed itself from the process of under its stewardship. Those lessons helped identifying and designating new wilderness guide the agency in selecting lands and design- areas within park boundaries, leaving disputes ing improvements for new national parks in for state and local interests to resolve. Alaska. Similarly, the Park Service’s realization that decades of predator control, fire suppres- Wilderness advocates in politically progres- sion, grazing, and recreational use had funda- sive states seem not to have suffered from the mentally altered certain environments caused it agency’s inaction. Their first notable success to rethink its approach to defining, identifying, came in 1988, when the Washington Park and protecting “unimpaired” landscapes. What Wilderness Act set aside more than 1.7 million had been a historical focus on scenery and acres within Mount Rainier, Olympic, and North aesthetics has, over time, given way to a more Cascades National Parks. Preservationists in enlightened perspective that considers biologi- more politically conservative states have had cal and ecological integrity. far less success. The National Wilderness Pres- ervation System includes no land in such major Ambivalence and complacency have certainly wild parks as Yellowstone, Glacier, or the Grand marked the Park Service’s nearly century-old re- Canyon. lationship with wilderness. Any fair assessment of the agency’s performance must, however, But the Park Service’s reluctance to involve consider the challenges inherent in a mission itself in disputes with political implications that calls for preserving primeval landscapes cannot be taken as proof that the agency is or while serving the needs of the 275 million READ MORE has been institutionally indifferent to preserv- people who visit America’s national parks each ing wildlands. In the 1920s, the Service fought year. Professor Miles, for one, credits the Park Wilderness in off a scheme to dam streams in Yellowstone for Service for its consistent, albeit evolving, com- National Parks: irrigation. A decade later it successfully chal- mitment to preservation. Playground or Preserve lenged a proposal by the Federal Power Com- by John C. Miles mission to site power developments inside park “The forever unfinished lifework of our spe- boundaries. After World War II, it defeated a cies” is how writer Wendell Berry has described plan to allow logging in Olympic National Park the struggle to find our home in the natural and another to carve off a section of Joshua world. The Park Service’s mission is that very Tree National Monument for mining. forever unfinished work. t

12 November + December 2009 » Washington Trails WTA at Work Trail Maintenance » Unlocking the Mysteries of the Volunteer Work Party Schedule

“How do you figure out which trails to work and groups to provide volunteer training and on?” coordination for trail maintenance activities. These agreements help us pay for staff time to Sometimes our members ask us this because coordinate and lead these events. These agree- they are upset that we haven’t worked on a ments typically set a goal for us to provide a particular trail yet (or ever). More often, they’d specific number of work parties for a particular like to recommend a location for us to con- agency. For example, based on our 2009 agree- sider. A number of factors figure into WTA’s ment with King County, we hosted one-hundred trail maintenance planning process, including days of volunteer work parties in King County maintenance needs, agency partnerships, and— Regional Parks. most importantly—providing a quality volunteer experience. Contract agreements cover roughly three- quarters of WTA’s volunteer work parties. Our The first filter we use is a “backcountry remaining work parties are covered by other setting.” This doesn’t mean the trail has to be funding sources, including federal grants, cor- remote; it just needs to offer a sense of being porate sponsors, foundation gifts, and individu- removed from the hustle and bustle of an urban al donations and memberships. We have more locale. This is why we typically don’t work in flexibility around where we can assign those city parks like Golden Gardens in Seattle. work parties.

Generally speaking, you’ll find WTA crews Next, we start getting down to the nitty- on public lands—city parks, state parks, county gritty of where to put each work party. Here, parks, national forests and national parks. How- the land manager’s priorities become a crucial ever, we will work on public trails that have an factor in deciding what trails to work on. Every easement through sections of private land. The fall, WTA meets with all of the land manag- Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is a good example of ers with whom we work to lay out potential this. While most of the PCT is on public land, projects for the coming year. We discuss what some segments are on an easement corridor our crews have seen out on the trail during the through private land, and we occasionally work past season, what our members have brought on these sections. Trails located on land held to our attention, and what projects the land by private land trusts or nonprofit conservation manager would like to see done. Diane associations also provide occasional work for WTA volunteers; some of our work in Spokane When these meetings are complete, we have Bedell falls into this category. a rough outline of the main areas we will work Trail Programs in, how many days we’ll work in each area, and Director “Dedicated funding” is another filter we use. many of the trails on which we will work, and [email protected] WTA has agreements with various agencies it’s time to decide what type of work party best www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 13 addresses each project. WTA hosts work par- ties of many different lengths: single-day trips, weekend trips, multiday Backcountry Response Teams, and weeklong Volunteer Vacations. Each type of work party fills an important niche in maintaining trails of all kinds.

For day trips, our first consideration is the distance to the trailhead. Volunteers gener- ally won’t travel much more than two hours to work for a single day. As the majority of WTA volunteers hail from the Puget Sound area and, in 2009, we committed to provide 250 work par- ties per year on the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and another one hundred days on King County lands, you can guess that much of our work will take place on this set of trails. These are also some of the most popular and frequently used trails in the state, so it is impor- tant that they be kept in great shape.

To help broaden our reach, we have focused in recent years on developing volunteer bases outside of the Puget Sound area—in Vancouver, on the Olympic Peninsula, in northwest Wash- ington and in Spokane. As WTA’s volunteer pool outside of greater Puget Sound grows, we can continue to offer additional single-day work parties in more locations.

Reaching outside of our usual trails often requires tapping into our multiday trip options: weekend campouts, Backcountry Response Teams and Volunteer Vacations. Each of these heart of the wilderness and focus on a specific broaden the reach of our volunteer work, but Trail projects, like maintenance project for the week. In 2009, they also are more expensive to run than day this one at Glacier WTA fielded 43 Volunteer Vacations that ranged trips and require a greater time commitment Basin, start well in location from the north shore of Lake Chelan from our volunteers. in advance of the to the Salmo-Priest Wilderness on the Colville actual work party, National Forest to the Boundary Trail at Mount For locations that are too far for a day trip, in meetings and con- St. Helens National Monument. we’ll offer a weekend campout. In 2009, WTA versations between offered 45 weekend work parties. We worked at WTA and area land Our Volunteer Vacations sites are selected by Twin Lakes at Mount Baker, Indian Racetrack managers. at Mount Adams and the Shedroof Divide Trail working closely with the land manger to deter- on the Colville National Forest. One important mine the best trail projects. Here, we’re looking for a project that our volunteers can walk away If you’ve hiked a determining factor here is an acceptable loca- trail that could use tion for a group camp. from with a healthy sense of accomplishment and a camp location that is 3 to 8 miles into some additional the backcountry, offers up breathtakingly gor- attention, email Our Backcountry Response Team (BCRT) trips [email protected]. are three- to five-day backcountry work parties. geous scenery, and can be supported by stock. The work sites may be too far to reach in a day If there’s no way to offer our volunteers grilled or the projects are technical in nature, but the salmon with a sunset view, well, that project work won’t require an entire week to complete. just won’t make the list. BCRTs effectively address many of the sugges- tions we get from our members. Tubal Cain and Of course, trail condition plays a part in our Heather Creek on the Olympic National Forest, planning process from the very beginning, and Granite Mountain and West Cady Ridge on the we frequently turn to information filed in trip Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Riley reports or from your e-mails when we meet Creek near Mount Adams and Spider Meadows with the land managers to help them to identify t near Lake Wenatchee were among the 23 BCRT good projects for WTA volunteers. locations in 2009.

WTA’s Volunteer Vacations take place in the 14 14» WTA» WTA at atWork Work November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Scores of Volunteers Celebrate Join a WTA National Public Lands Day Trail Work Hallmark doesn’t make a “Happy National Public Lands Day!” greeting card and there’s no festive dinner, candles, or gifts involved. This is one holiday that is best Party celebrated out on the trail. Here’s a look a the work accomplished on the six work Nov 3-6 Tue - Fri Tiger Mountain parties WTA hosted on National Public Lands Day, September 26, 2009. Nov 7 Saturday Dosewallips State Park Nov 7, 8 Sat, Sun Larrabee State Park Horseshoe Bend Trail – Mount Baker Volunteers removed roots and filled rooty areas, brushed and built a 15 foot rock Nov 7, 8 Sat, Sun Tiger Mountain wall in the first mile of trail. They also widened tread in slide area approximately Nov 10 Tuesday Lower Dungeness 1.5 miles from trailhead, rounding out our trail work season on the Mount Baker Nov 10-14 Tue - Sat Soaring Eagle Ranger District. Nov 12 Thursday Peabody Creek Upper & Lower Dungeness and Royal Basin Trails – Olympic Peninsula Nov 15 Sunday Dosewallips State Park Volunteers split into three teams to address maintenance along these trails. Royal Nov 15 Sunday Tiger Mountain Basin Trail (up to the park boundary) is now ready for fall after volunteers cleaned Nov 17 Tuesday Peabody Creek culverts, grubbed out some ditches, knocked off berm, carved in some drain dips and camouflaged switchback cuts. The crew also worked on general maintenance Nov 17-21 Tue - Sat Taylor Mtn along the Upper and Lower Dungeness Trails. Nov 21 Saturday Peabody Creek Nov 21, 22 Sat, Sun Larrabee State Park Cold Creek Trail – Cle Elum District Nov 24-28 Tue - Sat Taylor Mountain A group at the beginning of the trail cleared a rotten log out of trail, built a French drain dip and removed huge rock from the middle of trail drainages. The rest of the Nov 22 Sunday Tiger Mountain crew focused on building rock steps, adding drainage and de-rocking the trail. Nov 27 Friday Mount Walker Nov 29 Sunday Tiger Mountain June Lake to Loowit Trail – Mount St. Helens Three groups worked on the trail between June Lake and the Loowit Trail. One Dec 1-5 Tue - Sat O'Grady group restored tread and a switchback, and another group brushed the trail from Dec 5-6 Sat, Sun Larrabee State Park the creek crossing to June Lake, opening a wide corridor from the trail to the lake’s Dec 6 Sunday Mount Si edge where visitors can get a nice view of the falls. Another group reconstructed Dec 8-12 Tue - Sat Grand Ridge drain dips and constructed new water bars on the section of trail just below this. Dec 13 Sunday Mount Si - Talus Loop Glacier Basin – Mount Rainier Dec 15-19 Tue - Sat Cougar Mountain Volunteers removed roots in preparation for a new approach. They built a new Dec 19-20 Sat, Sun Larrabee State Park switchback, and installed a side rock wall to hold the trail’s outslope. Finally, rock Dec 20 Sunday Little Si was used to raise the trail bed to an appropriate level and a rock wall installed to allow the trail to be expanded. Dec 22-23 Tue - Wed Grand Ridge Dec 29-31 Tue - Thu Grand Ridge Newhalem Climbing Wall – North Cascades Along with Vertical World’s climbing team, WTA rebuilt an access trail to this climb- ing wall. The group installed solid rock steps to the approach which will make it much easier for climbers to get to the wall. A group also worked on improving the tread, as well as pulling some invasive weeds. —Alyssa Krieder

For a complete schedule visit www.wta.org

To sign up or find more info » This is a se- lection from our extensive list of volunteer opportunities. To find more trips, and to sign up, visit our website at www.wta.org and click on “Volunteer.” No experience is necessary. Sign-ups close two days before a work party, and work parties often fill up quickly, so reserve early. Trip dates and —Alyssa Krieder locations are subject to change. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 15

Mazamas Recognize Meet Our Susan Saul Members!

Erik Wipf

Somewhere on the University of Photo by Eli Boschetto. Minnesota campus, Erik is bundled up as he studies Membership Dues to chemical engineer- ing and French. Increase in 2010 Renew today to lock in at current rates That’s his school year. On summer Thank you for being a member of Washing- breaks, he’s back ton Trails Association and helping us grow to in Washington better serve our hiking community. After nearly Photo by backpacking, sea twenty years at the same rate, we have decided Karl Forsgaard. kayaking and to increase our annual membership dues. volunteering with The Mazamas, a Portland-based climbing Why? We are doing more for hikers like you. WTA. His hiking club, will honor WTA advisory board member A lot more: 2,000 volunteers giving back 80,000 buddies consider Susan Saul with a Richard Ward Montague hours to maintain your favorite trails, an online him something Mazama Conservation Award. Their selec- hiking guide with more than 26,000 searchable of a backcountry tion of Saul for this award was based on her trip reports, TrailsFest and other events for you gourmet—a repu- significant efforts to establish the Mount St. and your family. Our membership dues have not tation he earned by Helens National Volcanic Monument, expand kept pace with the cost of these services, let preparing dishes two wilderness areas and create four new ones alone inflation. like lamb tagine during the Washington Wilderness Act of 1984, We will be increasing our basic hiker mem- with couscous found the Gifford Pinchot Task Force, lead the bership from $35 to $40 beginning January 1, while on the trail. Washington Trails Association advocacy pro- 2010, but you can renew at the 2009 rates now. gram, champion protection of the Dark Divide Whether your WTA membership expires today, Roadless Area, and stop the construction of a In 2005, Erik and next month, or sometime next summer, if you cross-monument highway. his family started renew today, we’ll extend your membership for According to John Rettig, on the Mazamas volunteering on a full year beyond your current expiration date. Conservation Committee, Saul’s most recent ef- trail with WTA. You will get an additional year of this beauti- forts looking at the long-term plan for Mount St. He joined in the ful member magazine, Washington Trails, along Helens helped the Mazamas to “get on board summer of 2009 with another year of member discounts at with this project very quickly.” through a Hike-a- local outdoor retailers, and another year to rest The award is named after Dick Montague, Thon sponsorship, assured that your voice is being heard on all president of the Mazamas in the early 1920s and he helped out things hiking. and remarkable because he had lost one lung to in the WTA office Renew early; renew today. You can renew pneumonia in the 1880s. on projects rang- your WTA membership online at www.wta.org/ Saul will receive the award during a ceremo- ing from data entry renew, over the phone by calling 206.625.1367, ny to be held on November 21, 2009. t to design work. or by mail to the WTA office. Erik continues to Thank you for helping to keep Washington’s be involved with trails beautiful and hikable for you—and for —Lace Thornberg WTA so that others generations to come. t may continue to —Kara Chin enjoy trails as much as he has. —Kara Chin 16 » WTA at Work November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Action for Trails » Looking Ahead to the 2010 Legislative Session

It’s no surprise to anyone who reads a news- ways of funding DNR’s recreation programs— Mount Si is one of paper or occasionally checks in with the news such as reforming the State’s landowner liabil- the most iconic that the economy is starting to recover—in fits ity statutes so that DNR can charge user fees, peaks in Washing- and starts, certainly, but many indicators are and investigating the potential for a new class ton. It’s managed trending in a slightly upward direction. That’s of trust lands to fund recreation. by Washington’s De- good news, writ large. partment of Natural WTA fought hard for a state budget that Resources. Photo by The economy in Washington state, however, kept NOVA funding intact while still keeping peachygreen. is likely to lag behind the national economy for parks open—as the Senate proposal did. When several quarters, in much the same way that it became apparent that NOVA funds would our downturn came a little later than the na- be transferred to other budget priorities, we tional economy’s nosedive. In Washington, state worked hard to make sure that those dollars revenues are still dipping, but at a slower rate. would at least stay with land management agencies. We advocated that those dollars, Heading into the 2010 supplemental budget if transferred, should be split between State development period, we’re looking at a $238 Parks and the Department of Natural Resources million budget deficit. That’s certainly much (DNR). Ultimately, they all went to State Parks. smaller than the $9 billion gap that the House Combined with deep slashes in DNR’s general and Senate grappled with last year as they fund appropriation, this action resulted in a 60 drafted a budget for the 2009-11 biennium. Still, percent cut in DNR’s recreation budget. DNR after making painful cuts, lawmakers are facing responded by seasonally closing many sites and even deeper reductions in state programs. Last pulling back services at others. year, state parks were on the chopping block. Nearly 40 parks were kept open by actions the In the upcoming legislative session, WTA will legislature took to find new dedicated funding make the case that the state cannot continue to sources for the department and by the trans- ignore DNR’s recreation programs. State parks fer of nearly $10 million in Nonhighway and are certainly a critical public resource, and we’ll Jonathan Off-Road Vehicle Activities (NOVA) program work hard to make sure that they’re funded and Guzzo funds. WTA will work with elected and agency open to the public. Take even a quick glance WTA Advocacy officials to refund the remaining year of NOVA at the landscapes that DNR manages, however, Director dollars in the 2010 supplemental budget. We’ll and you’ll find plenty of hiking opportunities also be laboring to find new and innovative that rival the most beloved trails in our state [email protected] www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 17 parks and national forests. WTA’s Along the Interstate 90 corridor, for instance, Hiker Lobby Day DNR lands in the Issaquah Alps and Mount WISH LIST Si alone serve nearly one million hikers each year. In Snohomish County, the stony redoubt Will Be February 3 Wondering of Gothic Basin in the Sultan Natural Resource what to get your Conservation Area (NRCA) is managed by DNR. In 2009, WTA brought together more than 50 hik- favorite hiking In southwest Washington, the Table Mountain ers from across the state to speak out for trails in advocacy group NRCA draws hikers from Clark County to its Olympia. This event was a huge success connecting wild reaches. legislators with their hiking constituents and ensuring this winter? We that trails and wildlands were not left out of impor- happen to have a You might be surprised that some of your tant policy discussions. few suggestions. favorite places are managed by this little- understood public agency. We are convinced A projector for In 2010, WTA will build upon our activists’ momen- that once you see the places held in trust by our field office tum in terms of both numbers and results. Our 2010 DNR, you’ll become a strong advocate for their Lobby Day will be focused on restoring and protect- increased funding and protection. We hope you A PC-compatible ing funding for the Department of Natural Resources will attend our annual Hiker Lobby Day on Feb- laser printer with (DNR), which manages many great hiking areas ruary 3 and make your voice heard in defense envelope feeder including Mount Si and Tiger Mountain. We will also of these lands. and auto duplex work to further WTA’s efforts to make trails safer, by for high volume lobbying for a more user-friendly website for the For more information on how to get involved print jobs Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, which in advocating for DNR, please don’t hesitate will help hikers educate themselves about hunting to contact me at (206) 625-1367 or by email at Functional seasons and areas. [email protected]. t digital point- and-shoot cam- While there will be some difficult conversations eras for our trail around budgeting this year, your presence can maintenance make a difference for the trails you love. Lobby Day crews consists of a morning workshop where you can learn more about the issues of the day and pick up some Graphic design ADVOCATE FOR TRAILS tips on meeting with your elected officials. Then we services for two head to the capitol, where you will meet with your WTA t-shirts What: Hiker Lobby Day representatives and put your newfound skills to work. When: February 3, 8:30 a.m. – 4 p.m. We hope you can join us in speaking out for trails. t And, of course, there’s always Where: Olympia, Washington cash. Who: Anyone who cares about hik- ing and Washington’s trails. If you make a RSVP: [email protected] More than 50 hikers visited Olympia for the tax-deductible 2009 Hiker Lobby Day. Photo by WTA. gift to WTA by December 31, you will help us meet our $22,500 goal and help us start strong in 2010.

To donate an item from the list above, email [email protected].

To donate cash, visit www.wta. org/give or mail a check to: Wash- ington Trails Association, 2019 Third Ave, Ste. 100, Seattle, WA 98121. 18 » WTA at Work November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org Membership News »

Left to right: Outstanding hikers Doug Breckel, Lynn Kit- tridge and Matt Thyer. My Top Ten for Trails Or, why I am making a year-end gift to trails

If you’re like me, you love reading top ten on the Pacific Crest Trail. lists. This season I’ve come up with one of my own. The people listed below have made 5. Jonathan Guzzo: As WTA’s advocacy significant contributions to the hiking commu- director, he worked with volunteers in our Trail nity this year, and they couldn’t have done it Action Network to help prevent the closure of without Washington Trails Association. as many as 40 state parks this year, and he’s already gearing up for the tough 2010 legisla- Each of them has inspired me to give as tive session in Olympia. generously as I can to WTA this season. I hope they’ll inspire you too. 4. Lynn Kittridge: Lynn, a WTA member and teacher from Duvall, has spent 26 days helping 10. Sally Miller and Arian Ensley: These to rebuild her favorite trail, Glacier Basin in returning volunteers joined a backcountry youth Mount Rainier National Park. She’s one of more crew this summer. They spent a week with than one-hundred volunteers who have together fellow teens building new puncheon, or board- contributed 7,000 hours to this crucial project. walk, on the Hyas Lake Trail, a popular family destination in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 3. Craig Romano, Dan Nelson and Alan Bauer: Hikers have a great (free) new online 9. Big Pants Trekkers: The Trekkers are resource thanks to these authors. Select content among hundreds of hikers posting trip reports of their Day Hiking guidebooks, published by at www.wta.org. They share great stories to in- the Mountaineers Books, is now available in spire your next adventure. And, in my opinion, WTA’s online Hiking Guide. they have the coolest screen name. 2. WTA’s trail maintenance staff: WTA 8. Doug Breckel: As WTA’s treasurer, Doug is volunteers have contributed more than 81,000 one of our unsung heroes. He’s also part of the hours to trails this year. That’s our biggest year reason why WTA continues to receive the high- ever. Diane Bedell and her team do an amazing est four-star rating for efficiency and effective- job recruiting, training, and supporting WTA’s ness from Charity Navigator, the nation’s largest volunteer crew leaders and the 2,000 volunteers charity evaluator. who work hard nearly every day of the year to keep your favorite trails open. 7. Jane Baker: This year Jane became WTA’s first crew leader stationed in northeastern 1. You! For your love of the wild places that Washington. She and 65 volunteers improved make Washington great, for your sense of won- Rebecca trails from Spokane to the Salmo-Priest Wilder- der and adventure, and for all you give back to Lavigne ness, including some that had been neglected benefit hikers today and tomorrow. WTA Development for twenty-five years! Director So go ahead. Give a little or give a lot. It all [email protected] 6. Matt Thyer: First-time Hike-a-Thoner Matt adds up for trails. Make your special contri- was one of our top fundraisers and received a bution online at www.wta.org/give or mail runner-up award for Most Miles Hiked. Maybe a check to Washington Trails Association by he would have won first place if he hadn’t cut December 31. t one of his hikes short to rescue an injured hiker www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails 19 On Trail Northwest Explorer »

Exploring Winter’s Palette A snowshoe sojourn to Mount Baker’s Artist Point

Here in the ragged Northwest, we are both blessed and Border Peaks from Artist Point. Photo cursed. by John D’Onofrio.

We are fortunate to have some of the most dramatic mountains in the world within easy reach. The peaks are sharp against the sky, wild fangs of rock and ice. The relentless weather has had its way with them, and they are shaped and chiseled by it into these spectacular landscapes. This is the blessing.

Of course the same weather reduces the snow-free hiking season to a pitifully short span of months, in between the much-anticipated summer melting, and the first eager flurries of autumn. John This all-too-brief season is far too short to satisfy the high country itch. This is the curse. D’Onofrio For those of us who love these mountains, this means only one thing: get out the snowshoes. John is a writer and I am frequently amazed by the legions of summer hikers who relegate their hiking boots to photographer living the closet when the white stuff starts to fly. They are missing a great opportunity to explore the in Bellingham. mountain landscapes of the North Cascades under truly magical conditions. With the right gear and an adventurous spirit, the mountains are at their best when snow covered—the sun sparkling on www.jdonofrio.com pristine white slopes, skies filled with stars, the chance to experience true solitude and peace in the 20 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Avalanches The often photographed, always worthy Mount Shuksan with a blanket of snow. Before any trip on snow, you need to check the avalanche report, in addition to check- ing the weather forecast.

Here are a few local resources you can turn to for more information about avalanches and safe travel on snow in the Northwest.

Friends of the Northwest Weather John D’Onofrio and Avalanche Center www.avalanchenw. empty backcountry. dise. We drive the Mount Baker Highway to the org upper lodge at the Mount Baker Ski area, park Although avalanche hazards restrict access in the lot and head south towards Table Moun- The Mountaineers in many areas of the North Cascades in the tain up the ski runs. www.mountain- depths of winter, there are plenty of glorious eers.org destinations to explore in your snowshoes, We shoulder our packs and start up through ranging from casual afternoon strolls to mul- the busy ski area beneath cobalt blue skies. tiday adventures. One of the very best easily- The journey that will eventually take us to Northwest Weather attained locations is found on a high ridge the stillness and silence of the heart of winter and Avalanche between Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan, begins, perversely enough, in the Mardi Gras Center officially known as Kulshan Ridge but widely atmosphere of the ski area, and we slowly www.nwac.us referred to as Artist Point. climb through the hustle and bustle. Skiers and boarders whistle past us every few seconds. We My wife, Susan and I had been planning an are salmon, swimming upstream against the Washington Alpine overnight visit to Artist Point for several weeks, current of Gore-Tex, fleece and iPods. Club hoping for good weather, low avalanche danger www.wacweb.org and fresh snow. Today we have all three: the The route steepens as we climb to the bound- weather forecast is promising, avalanche dan- ary of the ski area. A sign warns us that we’re ger is low and a light snowfall has deposited on our own now, which is the way we like it. soft powder on the slopes. Perfect conditions The way to Artist Point generally avoids ava- for an evening spent amongst the Mountain lanche slopes, although fatal avalanches have Gods. occurred beneath Huntoon Point (the high point on the ridge) in the past. The trick is to head Artist Point’s proximity to the Mount Baker straight up the steep slope above Austin Pass Highway (kept clear in winter to facilitate ac- rather than following the route of the summer cess to the Mount Baker Ski Area) and wildly road around a switchback. And of course to be scenic setting make it an ideal location for a somewhere else when the avalanche danger is Northwest winter sojourn, either for a satisfying day trip high. Like your hot tub. Explorer articles or—even better—a spectacular overnighter. describe back- Greeting the winter dawn from Kulshan Ridge So up we go, leaving the noise and frenetic packing trips in has become an annual tradition for me, and activity of the ski area behind us. We ascend to the Northwest I’ve seen the crystal-clear morning sun sparkle the wonderland of Austin Pass with its million- and beyond. on chorus lines of peaks and also hunkered dollar view of Shuksan rearing up into the sky Want to write amongst gnarled trees in wind-whipped bliz- above the Swift Creek Valley. A good place to about your trip? zards. shrug off the pack, eat some cashews and con- E-mail editor@ template our good fortune. wta.org. The route is straightforward and easy—about 3 miles and 1,100 feet from parking lot to para- Onward and upward! The going is easier www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails On Trail « 21 here, on a well-established and well-compacted trail through picturesque snow-plastered trees and past rock faces displaying complex curtains of ice. We come to the aforementioned last big Pausing on the as- switchback below Artist Point and veer off the cent to Artist Point road, heading straight up the steep hill to avoid to enjoy the winter the potential avalanche slope below Huntoon spectacle. Photo by Point. It’s a stiff but short climb, and before John D’Onofrio. long we find ourselves atop the slender ridge at the ever so aptly named Artist Point. Here is the marquee view of the magnificent North Cascades. Close at hand, Shuksan’s snow-plas- tered face rises like a vision of alpine grandeur. Beyond it, the great Border Peaks crowd the northern horizon. But the undisputed lord of this high country wonderland is Mount Baker, We are its mammoth ice cone filling the southwestern salmon, swim- sky. ming“ upstream The thing to do now is to maneuver the against the elegant bumps and grinds of the ridge upwards current of Gore- in search of a suitable place to spend the eve- Tex, fleece and ning. We follow the well-stomped trail between precipitous drops on both sides, past isolated iPods. stands of lonely trees. We stop and drop our vo- luminous packs at the base of the final upward thrust of Huntoon Point. A few gnarled trees ” offer some (scant) shelter, should the wind come up.

With my snowshoes I stomp down a rect- angle of snow on the reasonably flat ridge crest, and we pitch the tent so that we’ll have a view of Shuksan in the morning. Wielding our trusty avalanche shovels we carve ourselves a dinette set—table and chairs—in the snow. We shovel some snow into the pot to melt on the stove for drinking water. The sun drops low in the west- ern sky and aside from the hissing of the stove, a profound silence settles over the high country. We have the ridge to ourselves.

As the sun makes its exit below the horizon, the face of Shuksan is illuminated with rosy alpenglow. To the north the Border Peaks are silhouetted against the darkening sky. We eat a fine dinner beneath a sky bristling with stars and linger over cups of hot tea. The air is to- tally still. We find ourselves whispering.

For those of us who love the sanctuary of the mountains, a winter’s night is the stuff that dreams are made of. Solitude, silence, a sky so clear that the Milky Way seems in danger of spilling over. The hushed white world seems so remote from the busy lives we lead down in the lowlands.

Dinner eaten, we relax on our snow loungers, exchanging stories and watching the stars. In our numerous layers of polypro, fleece and Gore- Tex, we’re warm and comfortable. Life is very good indeed here on Kulshan Ridge. t Capturing patterns in the snow, Kulshan Ridge in winter. Photo by John D’Onofrio. 22 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

More Destinations Near Mount Baker

Hannegan Road – Trailhead elevation: 2,000 feet. Located Wells Creek Road – Trailhead elevation: 1,800 feet. Located 13.1 miles east of Glacier and 0.5 mile before the Salmon Ridge 7.1 miles east of Glacier at the Nooksack Falls turnoff, the Wells Cross-Country Ski Area, the Hannegan Road climbs safely for 3.5 Creek Road is 12 miles long, gaining up to 2,800 feet. Park on miles, gaining 1,100 feet. This easy, accesible trail offers great the highway or at the falls (a de rigueur side trip). The road views of the Nooksack River and Mount Shuksan. The first mile crosses a frequent avalanche area 3 miles in. Closed to vehicles is an easy grade, then the road steepens for the last two miles. and snowmobiles at Nooksack Falls from November 1 to July 1, Beyond this point, significant avalanche hazards exist and travel this road offers midwinter solitude and wildlife watching. Snow is not recommended. can be spotty due to the low elevation, but when the snowline is sufficiently low, the scenery and camping are great. Twin Lakes Road – Trailhead elevation: 2,000 feet. Located 12.7 miles east of Glacier at the Shuksan Maintenance Shed, the Deadhorse Road – Trailhead elevation: 1,000 feet. Located at Twin Lakes Road is 7 miles long with elevation gain up to 3,000 the beginning of the Glacier Creek Road (#39), the Deadhorse feet. Park along the side of the road (not in the maintenance Road climbs for 14 miles, gaining 3,000 feet. Park along the side yard). A steep uphill climb to a magnificent area, the route ends of the road at snow line. A fairly level route along the Nooksack three miles before Twin Lakes, where an extremely dangerous River leads into a long gradual uphill climb to the Skyline Divide avalanche area is encountered. The road is closed to snowmo- at 13 miles. Skyline Divide (best done in early season, when you biles. can drive much of the road) offers wide-open bowls and grand views. The lower sections of Deadhorse can offer great snow- Glacier Creek Road – Trailhead elevation: 1,000 feet. Located shoeing and skiing along the river but adequate snow pack at 0.7 mile east of the Glacier Public Service Center just inside this elevation has been rare in recent years. the forest boundary, the Glacier Creek Road is 8.5 miles long (measured from the Thompson Creek Bridge) and gains 3,000 White Salmon Road – Trailhead elevation: 3,000 feet. feet. Park along the road at snow line. One avalanche path Located at a switchback on the Mount Baker Highway, 18 miles crosses the road and runs occasionally. Although it is popular east of Glacier. Park in a small turnout on the outside of a high- with snowmobilers, this route provides access to a variety of way switchback. A relatively short outing, the route meanders beautiful locales, including the Heliotrope Ridge Trail which is for about 2.5 miles with an elevation loss of 300 to 600 feet. off-limits to machines. Visit midweek or at the beginning or end Here, the snow comes early and stays late. After a mile, enjoy of the season. gorgeous views of Shuksan and the Upper Nooksack Valley. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails On Trail « 23 Stay Warm, Stay Dry The key to successful winter travel is, of Shelter options abound in the course, staying warm. The way to stay warm is winter. Snow caves and igloos to stay dry. are possibilities, although I prefer to sleep in a tent. It’s laborious Think of your winter wardrobe as consisting and time consuming to dig caves of two separate components: clothing to get or build igloos, time that can be you to camp and clothing to keep you warm better spent exploring or enjoying once you reach camp. Beginners all too often the scenery. Also by leveling out a make the mistake of arriving at their desti- tent platform with your avalanche nation sweat-dampened and chilled without shovel, you can situate your tent suitable alternate layers. It is essential that you on a slope that would be impos- have a bone-dry bottom layer to put on upon sible in the summer. arrival. Polypro is great for banishing the chill, especially when layered with fleece. Anouter The tent itself should be a reli- waterproof and wind-resistant shell (jacket able four-season model, strong and pants) is mandatory and a down jacket enough to withstand wind and beneath the shell will be much appreciated. accumulated snow and with adequate ventilation to ensure an You’ll want a balaclava (better than a hat, ample supply of fresh air should it keeps your neck and face warm) and gloves. snow bury the vestibule over- Thin liner gloves are useful when it comes night. Your sleeping bag should be time to manipulate the stove, and insulated, rated at a temperature well below waterproof outer gloves are necessary when what you expect to encounter—the the temperature drops. You’ll want to have both ratings tend to be a little fanci- in your pack. With the right clothing, you’ll be ful. You can augment your bag’s able to enjoy both the journey and the destina- warmth by sleeping in multiple tion on your winter sojourn. layers of polypro and fleece. A good ground cloth or footprint is Another important consideration is your important to keep the floor of the stove. Canister-type stoves don’t do well in tent dry. And you’ll want to bring your boots Snowshoers explor- freezing temperatures; you’ll want a liquid gas inside at night to avoid having them frozen in ing Guye Peak. stove. The stove is critical because drinking the morning. Ditto for your water. Photo by Dave water is acquired by melting snow. A small Schiefelbein. piece of old Ensolite pad works well as a stove With good weather, the right gear and a little base and will prevent undue listing. Make sure practice, you’ll find that an evening spent in the that you bring enough fuel. Melting snow is a winter alpine offers unique delights and lasting time- and fuel-intensive business. memories. t —John D’Onofrio Eat Well Blustery Day Double Potato Chowder

Pack in first sandwich bag: Pack in second sandwich bag: 1 cup dried instant hash browns 1/2 cup instant mashed potato 1/4 cup diced dried onions flakes 4 tsp. low-sodium vegetable or beef 1/4 cup shelf-stable Parmesan bouillon cheese 1 tsp. dried parsley 1/2 cup fried onions 1/4 tsp. diced dried garlic Photo by Kirk Kirkconnell 1/4 tsp. dried thyme Also take: 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. or 1 packet olive oil

Directions: Add the vegetable/seasoning bag and 4 cups water to your pot. Cover and set aside for fifteen minutes for the vegetables to rehydrate. Add the oil, stir well and bring to a boil. Lower the flame to low, cover and simmer on a low boil for five minutes. Turn off the stove and add the contents of cheese/potato bag to the pot. Stir well, taste for seasoning and add more pepper and salt as desired. Serves two. —Recipe by Sarah Kirkconnell, author of Trail Food Made Simple. 24 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org Further Afield » In the Home of Giants Trekking through Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park

Lake Langvatnet, otunheimen National Park in south-central Norway offers spectacular hiking through (Day 8). Photo by high, open, lake-strewn country. Here reside the highest peaks of Europe north of the Jean Wahlstrom. Alps. Mountain hotels spaced a day’s walk apart make the trek all the more enjoy- able. With these “hotels” providing beds and all meals, one can go “hut-hopping” with a light pack. Everyone seems to speak English, so there is no language barrier . Thirty years ago, my wife, Cecile, and I hiked the standard Jotunheimen loop together. This past summer, we returned with six friends (Gary, Jack, Jean, Rebecca, Shane and Steve), retracing many of our earlier steps during the second week of July. This article will describe both the basic loop and the logistics for doing this trip, to enable U.S. hik- Jers to enjoy this exciting area. The basic Jotunheimen loop starts at Lake Gjende, a long, narrow lake running east to west; at its eastern end is Gjendesheim, where the hiking starts. Halfway down the lake, on its north side, is Memurubu, and at its western end is Gjendesbu; all of these hotels are linked by early morning and late afternoon ferry service. A day’s hike north of Lake Gjende are three other hotels, each a day’s hike from each other: Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, and Leirvassbu, running east to west. The basic loop runs counterclockwise: Gjendesheim, Memurubu, Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu, and Gjendes- bu. Also, from Glitterheim and Spiterstulen are walk-ups of the two highest peaks in Europe north of the Alps: Glittertinden and Galdhøpiggen respectively.

Dave Jotunheimen translates as “Home of the Giants” and, indeed, many glacier-topped mountains Jette define this stark country. Our nine-day trek included five hut-hopping days and four layover days for hiking. “Mountain Man Dave” Jette Ph.D., Day 1. After arriving at Gjendesheim by bus the previous afternoon, take an early morning ferry carries out research to Memurubu (984 meters) for the Besseggen Ridge hike back to Gjendesheim. As the most popular day hike in Norway, Gjendesheim Besseggen sees between 500 to 1,000 hikers, from small chil- on improving cancer dren to elderly adults, every day. It is far from easy, however. The map gives the hiking time as six treatment and has hours, but those, it seems, are “Norwegian hours” and must be longer in the same way that meters been leading group are longer than feet. It took the fastest members of our party eight hours. This hike also includes backpacking trips a bit of scrambling, best done going uphill by starting at Memurubu rather than Gjendesheim. The for friends for forty route first climbs high (1,518 meters) on the ridge and then drops down to Besseggen (1,375 meters), years. a great narrowing of the ridge with Lake Bessvatnet touchable on one side and Lake Gjende far www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails On Trail « 25 below on the other. Dramatist Henrik Ibsen alternate route from Glitterheim to Spiterstulen immortalized Besseggen when he described over Glitterheim. (That route is seven hours Peer Gynt’s wild ride on the reindeer across the map time—beware!). ridge. After scrambling up to the ridge’s high point (1,740 meters), one finally descends to Day 6. Climb of Galdhøpiggen (2,469 meters Gjendesheim (984 meters). / 8,101 feet). Cecile and I did Day 2. Take the early-morning ferry to Mem- this climb of 1,365 urubu (984 meters) again, but this time do a meters on our first loop hike on the ridge to its southwest. After trip, but because an initial steep climb, the ridge’s high point of poor weather (1,480 meters) is soon crossed and it is then a we all skipped long, easy walk past small lakes to a junction at it this time. It’s 1,400 meters. Here you double back to the right and descend to the Muru River (Memurudalen Valley) to return to Memurubu. This is a fairly easy hike, but on our first trip Cecile and I continued on past the junction, staying high to finally descend to the Storádalen valley north- west of Gjendebu. This time I made the gross error of doing this long hike in reverse, and it took us ten exhausting hours exacerbated by intermittent rain and the sharp final descent. (That was actually the first day of this year’s trip, and we took the next day off.)

Day 3. It is time to head north. From Mem- urubu, we first climb the ridge as in Day 1, but we cross it (1,410 meters) and continue down to skirt part of very long Lake Russvatnet (1,175 meters). There follows a long climb to a barren pass at 1,685 meters and finally a lengthy de- scent to Glitterheim (1,330 meters). This is quite a long day: the seven hours listed on map took us nine. (For some reason, hiking in Norway seemed much harder for Cecile and me this time than it did thirty years ago!)

Day 4. Climb of Glittertinden. At 2,470 meters definitely harder than the climb of Glitterheim, Veo River valley, (8,104 feet), the rounded top of Glittertinden is with a map time of four hours up and two and starting out from the highest point in northern Europe. However, a half hours down. From the top of this highest Glitterheim (Day this height is only because of its snowcap, and peak north of the Alps, you look out over a sea 5). Photo by Cecile the highest peak in northern Europe is actually of peaks and glaciers—an incredible view! Disenhouse. Galdhøpiggen, one meter lower. The climb of 1,140 meters is mostly a snow walk, and I did Day 7. Our route now takes us southwest Map courtesy of it the first time I went there. However, due to a to Leirvassbu, right on large, deep blue Lake Wandern in Jotun- combination of poor weather and tiredness our Leirvatnet. Most of the way is a long, slow as- heimen. group took the next day off, with some of us go- cent to a pass area (1,460 meters), past another ing partway up Glittertinden. Glitterheim was string of beautiful lakes, and then a short de- an especially nice place to stay, with private scent to Leirvassbu (1,410 meters). This is easy showers in our two-person rooms and a lounge going, and we didn’t take much longer than the in our dormitory where we could play games. map time of five hours.

Day 5. We now head west to Spiterstulen Day 8. From Leirvassbu, we head southwest, (1,104 meters). This is a straightforward day, first climbing 110 meters and then following a first climbing slowly to a pass (1,680 meters) long series of lakes and finally a broad valley and then descending very slowly through wide, down to Gjendebu. Near the end of long Lake flat terrain dotted with a great many small Langvatnet, we faced a major stream crossing, rocks, and finally more steeply to Spiterstu- the only one where we had to take our boots len. This whole stretch is open and beautiful, off to keep them dry. Despite being mostly level especially the lakes in the pass area. However, or downhill and often with surprisingly good the boulder fields in the pass area do make trail, this was actually a fairly long day. So for rather slow going. The map time is five much for meeting the map time! hours—about seven for us—and there is also an 26 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Day 9. If you’ve lost a day due to bad weath- er, you’ll be ferrying back to Gjendesheim to The Mountain Hotels catch the morning bus. If you didn’t lose a day, o DNT runs hotels at Gjendesheim, Spiterstulen, you can hike southeast from Gjendebu (984 and Gjendebu; the others are privately owned. meters) to cross a pass at 1,500 meters and The non-DNT hotels tend to be a bit fancier descend to Torfinnsbu on Lake Bygdin. From than the DNT ones and to cost somewhat more, here, you catch the early afternoon ferry to although the one at Leirvassbu gave a 5 percent Bygdin and can then bus a short way north to discount to DNT members. Be sure to ask for it. Gjendesheim. Cecile and I did this on our first o All of these hotels have showers. Bring your trip, and we must have made the map time of own soap and towel, as well as a washcloth (which five hours in order to have caught the ferry. If seems never to be supplied in Norway). you go this route, be sure that you can keep up with “Norwegian hours.” t o All have rooms with bunk beds for two or four persons, and dormitories costing considerably less. Mattresses and blankets are supplied. Bring your own sleeping sack (a large sheet doubled over and sewn at the bottom and partway up) and pillowcase. o These hotels serve excellent meals, including a packed lunch that you pack at breakfast time. o The DNT prices are available online at http:// www.turistforeningen.no/english/. You can figure on spending about $100 per day per person on this trek. (Fairly costly for hiking, but inexpensive for traveling in Europe.)

Maps and Conversions o Plasticized topographic 1:50,000 maps for the Jotunheimen region are available at DNT offices or can be requested by mail. (I was able to get a topographic map through DNT by simply asking for it—with the map they sent a sheet explaining how to pay for it with a credit card.) Oslo Travel Tips o The Cappelens Kart CK45 Jotunheimen map On the way to o From Oslo Airport, opt for the “local train” also features a 1:100,000 map of the larger area, Leirvassbu (Day 7). into town. It’s half the price as the “express useful for nearby travels in the region. This is a Photo by Jean Wahl- train” and takes only five minutes longer. shaded relief map that’s not quite as pretty as the strom. o Oslo’s Anker Hostel (http://www.ankerhostel. two maps published by DNT. no/) provides two-bed rooms with a private o Jotunheimen Aust and Jotunheimen Vest—the bathroom and shower for about $90 per person east and west halves—are both needed for the per night. You can cook onsite and there is a basic loop. supermarket nearby. This place is popular, so be o These maps identify the various mountain sure to book early. hotels and give the hiking times in terms of “Nor- o The bus to Gjendesheim leaves at 9:30 a.m. wegian hours.” From the from Oslo’s main bus terminal just north of the o The maps have contour intervals of 20 meters. top of this train station and arrives at 2:20 p.m. The bus For those inexperienced in thinking in terms of “ company is Nor-Way and their office is on the meters rather than feet, you’ll have to get over highest peak right as you walk through the bus terminal. north of the it. The exact conversion factor is 1 meter equals 3.281 feet. Alps, you look Norway Trekking Association o Converting meters to feet while hiking can be out over a sea fairly simple by if you round a bit. o Be sure to join to join the Norway Trekking of peaks and Association (DNT – Den Norske Turistforening), o Think of 300 meters as practically 1,000 feet. glaciers—an preferably before arriving in Norway. DNT (300 meters equals 984 feet, and 1,000 feet equals incredible membership gives you discounted rates at any 305 meters.) of the mountain hotels they operate, as well o Consider 5 meters as roughly 16 feet. That

view! as room preference if the hotel fills up. (While makes 50 meters about 160 feet and 100 meters they never turn people away from these hotels, about 330 feet. it may be necessary to sleep on mats on the ” floor.) o Their website is http://www.turistforeningen. no/english/ and offices are located in Oslo and Bergen. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails On Trail « 27 More Hut-to-Hut Adventures Plan ahead for a trip to New Hampshire’s White Mountains or head out on a snowy trek in Rainier’s backyard right now Lake of the Clouds, NH High Hut, WA

Booking Tips » Book a Mount Tahoma Trails Association Hut

High Hut is part of the nonprofit MTTA Hut System (www. skimtta.com). An They have exotic names like Mizpah Spring Looking for great views of Mount Rainier overnight use and Galehead, Greenleaf and Lakes of the and piles of fresh snow to glide on? Try the 50 permit is required Clouds. They have clung to the mountainsides miles of trail run by the Mount Tahoma Trails to spend the night of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range for Association, in the forests outside of Ashford, in any of the three over a century now. They are not gargoyles or Washington. Skiing into High Hut, one of MTTA huts, but it is vampires. But they are Appalachian—mountain the system’s four huts, is a grand adventure not required for us- huts, that is. suitable for novice or advanced cross-country ing the trails or day skiers. It can be especially exciting when a big use of the huts. Perched deep in the rugged wilderness of snowstorm is brewing. the White Mountains, these alpine huts are a To receive a permit, hiker’s oasis. Strung along wind-swept rocky Setting out from the lower trailhead, you’ll follow the online staircases that reach eyebrow raising eleva- have a 3-mile ski, gaining 1,760 feet. If new reservation process tions, the eight Appalachian Mountain Club snow has fallen, you might want to take turns or attend their (AMC) backcountry huts offer adventure seek- breaking trail on the way to the hut. The trails annual “gala” at ers refuge from the ever-changing weather here are groomed well, but when the snowfall the Seattle REI on that is as much a part of a Northeastern hiking is truly heavy you might find the going to be November 7, 2009 adventure as the 10 essentials. pretty slow. Bring Glide, the magical wax for for advance reser- waxless skis. As you push toward an open vations. What fire lookouts once were to forest service ridge, you might find that it can be quite windy poets like Gary Snyder and Jack Kerouac can and visibility can fall short of your usual broad now be any peak bagger’s bivouac. Reserva- vista. The trails here are well marked to help The reservation tions through AMC at www.outdoors.org can skiers negotiate near whiteout conditions. You’ll costs $25 per get you a bunk with up to three wool blankets soon catch sight of your toasty warm cabin and person per night, (bring your own sleeping bag) if you plan to begin the glide toward warmth and comfort. but this reservation stay the night. But warm soup and shelter are fee is refundable available to anyone hiking through who just The High Hut kitchen is stocked with all the if the individual needs a respite from the weather or their own pots and pans, equipment and utensils you’ll actually stays in weariness. need to prepare a grand, gourmet meal. Want the hut—so there crepes? Go ahead! A pan of brownies? Coming is no actual charge The stone or wooden structures are staffed right up! A few rounds of blackjack or cribbage to spend the night. from June to mid-October depending on the later, and you’ll fall into your sleeping bag guar- Alternatively, you location, offer retail sales for safety items or anteed to enjoy a good night’s rest. can donate your souvenirs, and resemble an independent coffee reservation fee to shop on a college campus. Well-worn books The snow is likely to keep falling as you sleep MTTA instead of line one wall in the Lakes of the Clouds hut, through the night and massive snowdrifts, taking the refund. providing entertainment for foot travelers pass- Mount Rainier, a sparkling blue sky and frosted ing time. Throw in the aroma of wet and warm windows will greet you the next morning. Have bodies mixed with the homey scent of fresh- a pancake-flipping contest before you ski out on baked cookies and the talk of trail, and you’ve freshly groomed trails. Ski into an MTTA hut. A got nothing short of a mountain marvel. t fun and memorable adventure awaits! t

—Reisha Holton —Christel Cherry 28 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org Gray Getaways

It was early September, and the plan was those legs. With the right gear and an open to show off our spectacular Northwest alpine mind, a day spent walking in the rain can be scenery to a visiting hiker friend. Driving quite satisfying. to the trailhead, wipers worked furiously to clear rain drowning the windshield. Viscous The perks? No crowds. Nothing like wet gray skies obscured any sort of views. skies to keep all but the heartiest hikers at home. Diffuse lighting on rainy days creates a “Hey, do you want to stop for coffee?” I ask. mysterious, intriguing ambience. Wildflowers “No,” replies my passenger. seem brighter standing out against the gray Fifteen minutes later, I mention, ”There’s a backdrop. No complaints are heard of dusty coffee place near the trailhead … ” trails. Even bugs are less prevalent. “No, I’m okay,” my passenger responds. Ten minutes later, my passenger has finally How does one make hiking in rain toler- caught on and says, “You know, I really could able? You’ve probably heard the saying, use a coffee.” “There’s no bad weather, only inadequate gear.” Invest in good rain gear. Breathable We sip our coffee. We wait it out. After fabric lessens sweating inside the garment. twenty minutes in the coffee shop, my guest Armpit zippers allow venting. Some hikers optimistically declares, “It’s getting brighter,” opt for rain ponchos or umbrellas. A hat with and we head for the trailhead. a wide brim keeps rain from running down the back of the neck. On cool days, a neck Donning rain gear, I slip a pack cover over gaiter (such as the type made by Buffwear) my pack and hand my friend a garbage bag retains heat that can be lost from a bare to cover hers. (Northwest natives always have neck. Light synthetic gloves keep wet hands extra garbage bags in our packs.) Our trail warm. that day meanders between forest cover and open talus. The forest cover is appreciated An extra insulating layer and a sit pad more than usual. Instead of naming surround- make lunchtime more enjoyable. Store these ing peaks, I point out items of interest at inside garbage bags or lightweight nylon dry- ground level—bright green deer ferns, huckle- bags in your pack. A heavyweight gallon-size berries glistening in the rain, and long slimy plastic storage bag works also. A pack cover banana slugs. over all this adds one more layer of water resistance. In the Pacific Northwest, it can be 50 de- grees and raining any day of the year. What’s For extra comfort, pack some chemical a passionate hiker to do? hand warmer packets and a small Thermos of hot beverage. Hypothermia can be a concern Pack your rain gear, carry an extra layer when you are out in wet weather, so avoid (or two) of fleece or wool, and drive to the cotton clothing. Put the rain gear on before trailhead anyway. Sure, you can check the you get wet. Wear waterproof boots with weather forecast and poke your nose outside good lug soles as wet trails can be slippery. the door at home, but my governing rule is to Hiking poles are useful. Put your map in a always drive to the trailhead. waterproof map case or a plastic food storage bag. Many hikes that would have been can- Pam Roy celled due to the weather forecast, or rain at For rainy hikes, pick trails suitable for the For WTA’s Hike-a- home, have turned into days with reasonably weather, avoiding exposed ridge walks or Thon, Pam hiked 150 decent weather. Other days ... well, one gets hikes involving scrambling over slick rocks. miles in one month, to test that expensive rain gear and stretch Think old-growth forests. and only got rained on one time, but that was August. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails On Trail « 29

Fall colors enhanced by rain in Gray Getaways Paradise. Photo by Pam Roy.

One of my favorite wet-weather hikes is the Thunder Creek Trail in the North Cascades. You can follow the mostly flat trail in quiet forest for a few miles or continue on to the bridge at McAllister Camp for a full day. An optional side trip to Fourth of July Pass offers a chance get in some elevation gain.

Another trail that stays deep in the trees is the Carter Falls Trail in Mount Rainier Na- tional Park. Starting across from the Cougar Rock Campground makes this an easy short walk. Start at Longmire for a longer hike to Carter Falls. A truly hearty Northwest hiker, oblivious to the rain, can continue on the Wonderland Trail to Paradise for an enjoyable one-way trek of 6.9 miles.

Another trek that I have taken only in the rain is the hike to Goat Lake, a trail offering creeks, some old-growth forest, waterfalls, a pretty subalpine lake, and, reportedly, views of Cadet Peak. Of course, there’s Wallace Rainy Day Hikes Falls, a reliably rewarding hike year-round. The trail is under forest cover most of the Carter Falls way and passes many waterfalls, two of which are quite breathtaking. Mount Rainier National Park Trailhead: Longmire The most important ingredient for enjoy- Distance: 7.2 miles round-trip. Elevation gain: 900 feet. ing hiking in the rain? Attitude! One friend reminds me that it is never raining as hard at the trailhead as it seems when the rain is Goat Lake hitting the car windshield on the freeway. Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest For me, the hardest part of rainy-day hiking is getting out of the car and putting on rain Trailhead: off the Mountain Loop Highway gear. Once I start walking, however, things Distance 10.4 miles round trip. Elevation gain: 1,400 feet. get better. Have I regretted any rainy day hikes? I can Thunder Creek Trail honestly say that I have not. Each sloppy, North Cascades National Park cloud-filled day has had its own gifts—good conversations, clear air, some exercise and an Trailhead: Colonial Creek Campground, off North Cascades Highway, 10 appreciation of another type of beauty that miles east of Newhalem wilderness offers. To Fourth of July Pass Distance: 10.2 round trip. Elevation gain: 2,600 feet.

Wallace Falls Wallace Falls State Park Trailhead: near Gold Bar off Highway 2 Distance: 5.5 miles round trip. Elevation gain: 1,200 feet. 30 » On Trail November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

A Three-Day Ski Tour of The Lovely Methow Valley

Follow that dog! Skiers at Gunn Ranch. Photo by Methow Valley Sports Trail Association.

The words “Methow Valley” and “cross- The Sun Mountain Trails offer scenic views, country skiing” have become nearly synony- mixed terrain and the first morning sun on mous among Nordic ski enthusiasts. Located your second day of exploring. These trails are at the base on the eastern flanks of the North ideal for families or groups with mixed abilities Cascades, the Methow Valley is a sunny and re- that want to see the Methow from a different laxed winter destination known for world-class perspective. Youngsters will enjoy short rolling cross-country skiing. loops, while more ambitious skiers can go for longer expeditions. Everyone can reconvene at In the Methow, over 200 kilometers of a convenient warming hut. groomed, interconnected trails are surrounded by more than a million acres of wilderness and On the third day, skiers looking for a chal- forest lands. The Methow Valley ski trails are lenge or journey might try the Community divided into three distinct areas, all linked by Trail or Rendezvous Trail. The Community the Community Trail; each area offers a range Trail runs 30 kilometers from Mazama down of possibilities for every type of skier. Dog to the town of Winthrop. This gentle trail is Danica lovers will appreciate the 50-plus kilometers rated “easy” most of the way, with a 5-kilometer of trails that allow dog access, not to men- stretch in the middle that includes some short Kaufman tion three huts that allow for canine overnight climbs and rolling terrain over ancient glacial guests. moraines. Plan your rest stop at the incred- ible Tawlks-Foster Suspension Bridge along Danica is the Here’s a suggested itinerary for a three-day the way. For the seasoned skier, you can’t beat Methow Valley Sport trip to the Methow that will make the first-time the snow, sun and scenery of the Rendezvous Trails Association’s skier eager to ski again and seriously whet the Trails. Enjoy views of the North Cascades and Development appetite for avid Nordic skiers who have never the Methow Valley from 4,000-foot-high trail- Director. had a chance to ski the Methow before. side overlooks. The most ambitious skiers can ski 30 kilometers from Cub Creek to Mazama. Novices or mixed-ability groups will enjoy This is a great reconnaissance trip so that on spending their first day on theMazama Trails, your next three-day trip to the Methow, you FOR MORE INFO a great area for learning to cross-country ski. can experience an overnight expedition using Machine-groomed tracks over flat and rolling the hut-to-hut system. Five huts are dispersed Visit the Methow farmland, along the Methow River, and through along the Rendezvous Trails and are available Valley Sport aspen and pine woodlands offer scenic day for nightly rental all winter long, with optional Trails Association tours. Some visitors plan their entire trip around freight hauls. website at www. lodge-to-lodge skiing via the Mazama Country Inn, Mazama Ranch House, North Cascade Three days is a great start, but, really, one mvsta.com or call Lodge and the Freestone Inn. The Mazama could spend an entire winter exploring the end- (509) 996-3287. Trails are all valley-bottom, so you can hit the less trail system in the Methow Valley. See you Mazama Store for a bakery treat while you wait there! t for the snow to soften after a cold night. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails 31 Backcountry The Gear Closet » Foul Weather Friends With blink-and-you’ll-miss-it short days and wet weather upon us for the next several months, it’s time to look at some jackets that will take us from the city, to the slopes, to the trail. The manufacturers and the big fancy magazines will tell you that you need a special jacket for each pursuit, but these do-all pieces might have you thinking otherwise.

Patagonia Ascensionist jacket, $250

This jacket is a hybrid soft-shell combina- tion, though rather than the commonly seen hard-shell/soft-shell pairing, Patagonia has used two types of soft-shell fabrics. A “harder,” less stretchy hood and shoulder area protects against the weather where it hits the hardest, while a stretchier weave allows total range of motion in the arms and torso areas. The cut and quality are consistent with what we’ve come to expect from this brand, best exempli- fied in the total adjustability of the hood. All of the external seams are welded, making for a clean silhouette and quicker drying times. The pockets are huge and will hold a pair of climb- ing skins for backcountry skiing.

I was caught in a multiday storm with this jacket, and it served me quite well. I only wish I’d had a pair of pants just like it.

Outdoor Research Mithril jacket, $199 Allison Outdoor Research’s Mithril jacket has been Woods around for many seasons, but it somehow WTA Gear Editor escaped my scrutiny until now. The sole tra- The Patagonia Ascensionist’s stretchy weave ditional soft-shell entry to the test, this jacket [email protected] gives you range of motion. held its own in terms of performance against 32 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

the competition. The heavy fabric provides both Test ‘Em » warmth and protection from the elements, and When it comes to the fuzzy fleece lining does not feel clammy rainy places, the against the skin. The cut of the body is excel- Olympic Peninsula’s lent, though the sleeves are a touch baggy, and forests are right up the cuffs could use some refining. The hood is there in world rank- adequate, though it could use an adjustment ings, but there are point in the back. some drizzly sites Cascade side, too. This is a jacket that I might not wear around town; its simple design is really all business.

Rainy Places REI Kulshan (for women) & Shuksan (with average (for men) jackets, $299 yearly rainfall) When I got this jacket in the mail, I was a bit shocked at the color. I’d call it “fire engine red,” Quinault but it’s brighter than that. I wore the Kulshan over hill and dale, and every time I wore it, I 135 inches got compliments. People would touch the fabric covetously and then express great surprise Forks upon finding out this jacket was plain ol’ REI. There’s a designer there that has a special flair 122 inches for jackets, and the result here reflects that. The fit is precise; the details are standout. Paradise Inside the left hand warmer pocket, there’s 120 inches a secure inner pocket for your MP3 player, and on the women’s jacket at least, radically angled OR’s Mithril Storm Shell’s heavy fabric keeps Skykomish sleeve hems provide maximum protection coupled with mobility. Oh yeah, and maximum you warm as well as dry. 110 inches style! Nothing needs to be said about eVent fabric that hasn’t already been said elsewhere— it’s the most successful waterproof/breathable Snoqualmie Pass fabric technology to hit the market … ever. 100 inches One additional feature worth mentioning: the integrated Recco reflector. This passive diode Rattlesnake Lake reflector can assist in locating its wearer in the unlikely case of an avalanche. The Recco does 99 inches not replace avalanche training or beacons, but it can help increase backcountry safety at no inconvenience to the wearer. What’s not to like about that? t Data collected by Mark Canizaro. Source: Univeristy of Washington Department of Atomospheric Sciences

Hiker Pam Roy at Ruby Beach. The REI Kulshan & Shuksan jackets get style For more places to test your rain gear, points for the cut and kudos for a great water- see her article on page 28. proof fabric. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 33

Guide Book » The book opens, “I Cool Gear » walked every one of these trails. No doubt about it.” And there is no doubt about it. Pe- ter Stekel’s guidebook is filled with useful Haul a few dozen details and firsthand pounds of gear accounts of 42 hikes around on your back within a 60-mile radius all day and there is of Seattle. really nothing finer Harvest Pasta Stekel’s direct, than a glass of wine descriptive language under the stars. Pack in a sandwich bag: and restrained use 8 ounces small pasta shapes of superlatives will 1/3 cup diced sun-dried tomatoes Two new products Best Hikes engage any reader. His- 1/4 cup dried crumbled mushrooms promise to make that tory buffs, in particular, Near Seattle experience hassle- will enjoy the inclusion In a second sandwich bag: by Peter Stekel free and memorable. of name origins, biogra- 1 tsp. Italian herb seasoning ($18.95, 2009) Pack up your vino in phies and trail lore while 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper the PlatyPreserve naturalists will appreci- 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes from Platypus ($12), ate the frequent use of Latin names for flowers 1/2 cup shelf-stable* Parmesan cheese squeeze out the ex- and trees. 1/2 cup diced toasted walnuts cess air, crank down The guidebook is divided into two sections: the cap, and off you one for Urban Walks and one for hikes along go. The container is Also take: the Skykomish River Valley, Mountain Loop tinted to keep light 1 Tbsp. or packet olive oil Highway, Snoqualmie Valley Lowlands and out and the wine Highlands, and the White River Valley. The tasting fresh. It is also Directions: Bring four cups of water to a boil hikes included cover a range of difficulty levels, made of a material in your pot. Add the pasta bag contents and from the stroll to Twin Falls to the thigh- that won’t transfer cook for time on pasta package. Turn off the burning ascent of Mailbox Peak. Each hike any odd flavors to heat and drain the water off carefully, leaving a description includes useful turn-by-turn driving your wine. A leak- Tablespoon or so behind. Toss with the olive oil directions to the trailheads, GPS waypoints, proof cap keeps the and seasoning bag. Season with extra salt and land managers’ contact information, USGS and wine in the bag until pepper as desired. Serves two. Green Trails map references, Northwest Forest it’s time to drink. Pass requirements, and any restrictions con- Notes: To save fuel, pick pasta with a seven cerning dogs. minute or less cooking time. Find both the to- Color photos and basic trail maps are also When it is, break out matoes and mushrooms in the produce depart- nice to see. Additionally, the guidebook is sprin- your Govino wine ment of most grocery stores. kled with Green Tips, including the basic Leave glasses and drink up No Trace principles and conservation advice in style. These glasses *“Shelf-stable” refers to products that have perfect for the novice hiker. The sidebars cover are clearer than most been altered so that they can be safely stored subjects as diverse as “Going to the Bathroom plastics and much in a sealed container at room or ambient tem- in the Woods,” “The Banana Slug” and “Cairns more fun to drink perature. In the case of Parmesan cheese, buy and Ducks.” wine from than your it from the pasta section rather than the dairy This guidebook’s main drawback is that basic coffee mug. case. elevation gain data is not included in the hike The proprietary —Recipe by Sarah Kirkconnell, summaries. This information is occasionally material highlights author of Trail Food Made Simple. worked into the narratives, but, for many hikes, the gorgeous color of you’ll need to check with an online resource your Pinot, while the such as the WTA Hiking Guide or the land shape of the glass managers’ websites, or make a careful study of allows for proper your topo maps. sniffing and swirling. Dozens of similar titles are available, of course. (A search on Amazon.com for “hikes se- attle” yielded 166 hits). This fresh look at some Both products are old favorites accessed off of I-90, the Mountain lightweight and du- Loop Highway, US Highway 2 and Highway 410 rable, and best of all, is a worthy addition to your hiking library. It neither has one iota The PlatyPreserve. t should provide inspiration for close-in trips for of bisphenol-A. Perfect for your next trip many hiking seasons to come. t to the Wine Spires in the —Allison Woods North Cascades? —Steven Payne 34 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Youth & Families » Let it Snow!

Lounging in style on the Rampart Ridge Trail near Longmire in Mount Rainier National Park. Photo by Doug Diekema.

Winter is on its way and that means snow will be blanketing the hillsides in no time. Just be- cause it’s cold outside doesn’t mean you and your family have to stay cooped up inside. Embrace the winter wonderland and get outdoors!

Snow can be a great medium for creative, artistic projects. Or, with a little adaptation, many com- mon games become epic good times in snowy conditions. Snow can also encourage a bit of competi- tion and challenge. The next time you go snowshoeing, sledding or cross-country skiing, take plenty of breaks to try some of these ideas for winter fun.

Be Creative

Build a Snow Cave, Igloo, or Fort Having a shovel and snow saw makes this easier but isn’t required. Find a good snowdrift or build a big mound. Dig in and excavate the inside! If you have a snow saw or box frame, you can make snow blocks and try your hand at constructing an igloo.

Play Snowman Dress-up Build your best snowperson and accessorize until your heart is content. You can use either natural objects or bring a few items from home out with you.

Make Birdseed or Technicolor Snow Angels This one is for the artists! Most of us have made snow angels but few have used birdseed or food coloring to decorate our angelic imprints! Bring along several different types of birdseed or Chris spray bottles of food coloring and water. Please remember that food coloring isn’t good for birds, so Wall choose one coloring device or the other so that you don’t contaminate the seeds with dye. WTA’s Youth Programs Specialist Play Games [email protected] Snowman Destruction Derby After nurturing your creative side with snowman dress-up, what could be more fun than a little creative destruction? Some people leave their snowmen for others to see and admire, but others leave no trace. www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 35

Pin the Nose on the Snowman It’s a simple twist to the classic birthday game. Bring along a blindfold and carrots or use sticks. I encourage not only pinning the nose, but the eyes, teeth and eyebrows as well!

Snow Tic-Tac-Toe Three Xs or three Os in a row either up, down, or diagonal wins! Make the board have Try Snow Tug-of-War. Illustration by Kara Chin. as many squares as you want! Strategies and thrown snowball distractions encouraged. Kid-friendly Winter Hikes Get Competitive Upper River Run Snowball-Throwing Contest Make a big target using spraybottles filled Okanogan National Forest, Methow Valley Ranger District with water and food coloring. Like darts, Distance: 7 miles round trip. Elevation gain: 500 feet. High point: 2,800 feet. choose a set number of snowballs and establish Map: Green Trails Mazama 51 a point value for each ring. Winners beware, as this could easily develop into a snowball fight instigated by the losing team. Glacier Vista Mount Rainier National Park, Nisqually Entrance / Paradise Lodge Snowy Obstacle Course Distance: 3 miles round trip. Elevation gain: 700 feet. High point: 6,300 feet. Use your creative side to build things like Map: Green Trails Mount Rainier East 270, Paradise 270S trenches, mounds, hurdles, tunnels and ramps to design the most challenging snow obstacle course to date! Fastest time wins! White Salmon Creek Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Mount Baker Ranger District Snow Tug-Of-War Distance: up to 10 miles. Elevation gain: 300 feet. High point: 2,400 feet. You brought a rope just in case of a hidden crevasse, right? In this case, it’s not only for Map: Green Trails Mount Shuksan 14 safety but for fun as well! Imagine the chal- lenge that slippery, wet snow can add to the Big Four Ice Caves old game of tug-of-war! Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Darrington Ranger District There are plenty of fun ways to spend time Distance: 2.2 miles round trip. Elevation gain: 200 feet. High point: 1,860 feet. outside with kids this winter. Don’t let the Map: Green Trails Silverton 110 cold weather keep you inside! Remember to be safe, pack dry clothes and end the day with a steamy cup of cocoa and a roaring fire. Check Looking for more kid-friendly faves? Try WTA’s online hiking guide. In the out our recommended winter hikes, get outside, search options, you can select “kid-friendly” and find only hikes good for kids. and have some winter fun! t

Olympic hopeful in the Methow Valley. Photo by Doug Diekema. 36 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

be in mountainous terrain, having extra layers, food and water is always a good idea. I carry a How to Do It » very lightweight bivy sack as well. It only takes up a little space, but could be a lifesaver. If someone in your group ends up with seri- ous hypothermia, it’s a true “stop and fix” situa- tion. Unfortunately, in doing so you are putting more of the group at risk due to extended exposure to the same conditions. Picture a group huddled around a team member in the cold rain, on a windy mountain ridge with fad- ing light. Always remember that for the hiker, preven- tion is your first line of defense against hypo- thermia.

Preventative Steps HYPOTHERMIA • Hydration and nutrition. Have extra snacks and water, and keep them handy. Prevent, recognize, and treat • Proper clothing. Remember that “cotton this backcountry threat kills.” • Proper layering. Know how and when to make adjustments. Photo by Abby Wolfe. • Good rest management. Pick rest stops that are sheltered, encourage eating and hydra- Additional tion at each stop, but keep break times short. Resources Cool to cold temperatures, light precipita- tion, exposure to wind, extended time outside. Even despite good planning, sometimes the It sounds just like a fall or winter hike in the • Medicine for best intentions don’t pan out. Or, you may come Cascades! Unfortunately, these descriptors also Mountaineering, across a hiker from another party who you may characterize ideal conditions for hypothermia. The Mountaineers suspect is in trouble. What are the signs to look Hypothermia is a fairly common condition Books for? for mountain travelers. Mild hypothermia is • Wilderness a discomfort, but it’s dangerous in that it can Signs & Symptoms of Mild Hypothermia Medicine training, progress rapidly. Left untreated, it can be lead • The “Umbles”: stumbles, mumbles, including Wilder- to shock and it can be fatal. It’s important to grumbles, fumbles ness First Aid (WFA) know how to prevent hypothermia, how to • Shivering and Wilderness identify if someone is hypothermic, and how to • Changes in personality, especially quiet First Responder treat that person. • Body temperature that is lower than (WFR) As a mountain guide, I focus most of my normal, but usually above 90 to 92 efforts against hypothermia in the prevention degrees F stage. Like dehydration, it’s much easier either to not allow it to happen, or to catch it early. Signs & Symptoms of Severe Hypothermia To understand prevention, it’s best to know • Body temperature below 90 degrees F what causes hypothermia: • No longer shivering, severe lack of coordination Tom • Inadequate protection from exposure • Incoherence • Lack of proper hydration and nutrition Milne • Paradoxical undressing • Improper planning for the activity or the conditions Tom is a wilderness Treatment of Mild Hypothermia • Get out of areas of exposure EMT and mountain When one is out exercising in cool weather, if • Add insulating clothing layers guide who has the exercise rate is high enough and breaks are • Replace wet base layers with dry ones run expeditions short, the body will keep itself warm (provided • Exercise in short bursts to generate heat there is enough fuel and water on board). But from the Amazon • Treat dehydration and ensure that down time due to unexpected delays, extended to Antarctica. He adequate energy is on board currently works for time out due to conditions or human factors, and lack of extra food and clothing are com- Remote Medical Treatment of Severe Hypothermia mon situations that heighten risk of exposure. • A severely hypothermic patient is in a criti- International. Hypothermia is often a secondary problem that cal situation. Due to the potential for ventricular arises after a separate issue, such as a twisted fibrillation, they must be treated very carefully. Tom can be ankle or busted gear. The best treatment involves protection from the reached at tmilne@ Look at the weather forecast and plan ac- elements and rewarming on the spot. t remotemedical.com. cordingly. Regardless of the forecast, if you will www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 37

Trip Reports from Hikers » Take a Hike!

Search more than 24,000 trip reports online at www.wta.org.

Safety Notice

Neither Washington Trails magazine, the Washington Trails As- sociation, nor their personnel accept any liability for accidents or injuries in connection with articles, trail or I’m posting this because somebody has to road reports published North Cascades do the bragging for the Darrington Ranger in Washington Trails. District’s trail crews. The reports provide updated informa- I hiked North Fork Sauk River Trail in late tion of interest to the July and again in late September. It wasn’t region’s trail users; the same trail at all! Massive improvements readers are cautioned to supplement the have been made, including a beautiful bridge reports with other over Red Creek, a complete rerouting of some sources of information flood-prone sections in the upper valley and when planning a trip. the avalanche chute has been cleared of de- Additionally, readers bris. Amazing! A smooth hike out on cruise should be aware that control. So whatever’s been posted previously reported conditions North Fork Sauk River about a bridge out, blowdown, washouts, blah may change, that there Green Trails Sloan Peak 111, Glacier Peak 112 blah, forget it. may be errors in the re- ports, and that certain Sept 26, 2009 by Cascade Liberation Organi- hazards are inherent zation The avalanche chute will always be prone to in backcountry travel. 38 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

re-collect debris. We’ll see what winter brings to do some swimming in Rock Lake and mosey- this time, but the Darrington District has put ing around, but the note they left on my car tremendous effort into keeping this deservedly indicated that they had a full day returning to popular trail in fine condition. the trailhead at 7:00 p.m. Not true for us.

Speaking of collecting debris: rocks are al- The route is very straightforward. The basin ways gonna be falling off mountains, but if ev- about 2 miles in from the trailhead is very nice, ery passerby moved, say, half a dozen of those but there has been some impressive avalanche ankle-turners off to the outside of the trail— activity here with lots of large trees strewn without rolling them down onto hikers on the around. The trail is mostly unaffected, how- switchback below—we’d all be stepping around ever. The next 2 miles lead to the ridge and or tripping over a lot less of them, wouldn’t we? trail junction of Rock Creek, and route to Rock Mountain. This is very pretty country with long Thanks again to the road grass and open views which reminded me at and trail crews. I spoke times of the Pasayten. WTA’ s Corporate Partners with the upper crew in July. They were about to You then lose about 600 feet as you descend spend the next several to Rock Lake. Fabulous red huckleberry! From Rainier $25,000+ days working on a south Rock Lake you probably gain another 200 feet slope in that heat wave or so to a shoulder and views over to Howard (103 F in Seattle) without so and down to Crescent Lake. The way from the much as a leaf of shade. trailhead to Crescent Lake is all on good trail with little sign of the slides Blissman and I saw last year. Mount Howard Green Trails We were soon at Crescent Lake and looking Wenatchee Lake 145 for a way up. You can’t see the summit from Sept 27, 2009 by wolf- here. We scoped out an area that looked like Olympic $10,000–$24,999 a ramp leading up to a short gulley section woman that looked to be a good route into the upper reaches of Mount Howard. Continuing from This hike/scramble Crescent Lake, the best route is to follow the included Cascade Dreams, trail across the outlet and then into the fairly K.Gazelle, Phlemy, E.Mo, open forest. You’ll need to get up some steep Neil B, Cathy and Cedar. and slippery fir needles, and then look for open- This isn’t a difficult scram- ings and easy gullies, until you reach the open ble, but it’s a long haul. We areas above the slide alder and huckleberry. We started from the Snowy ended up just in front of the ramp and gulley. Creek trailhead since I It’s a bit steep here and the footing takes some thought that it would save care, but once up and over, you are in the upper us a little elevation and dis- and easy areas of Mount Howard. From here tance. The total saved from on the route is manageable talus, but you need the Rock Creek trail was to avoid the krumholz. We angled up to our left 900 feet in elevation and 2 and were soon on the summit. The only down- miles. I feel like sort of an side to this scramble was the fact that some of authority on this since this us were getting tired. We’d been moving fairly was my sixth attempt on fast all day with only one short break. Some the mighty Mount Howard were getting cranky. Especially me! Still, much with no success on the pre- congrats from my friends at the summit made vious five tries. Amazing, I my day as, being the great friends that they know! Most of my failures are, they knew how happy I would finally be have been due to time, but to conquer this beast. We left the trailhead at last year’s was because of 10:15 and arrived back at the trailhead at 8:00 some massive slides over p.m. Yup, a long day. the route.

This year, it was all Hidden Lake Lookout stable and I thought that I Green Trails Diablo Dam 48, Cascade had a strong enough group and an early enough start. Pass 80 I certainly had a strong Sept 26, 2009 by Eric Jain group, but maybe not an early enough start. Cathy The access road, FR 1540, is not just a bit and Cedar left our group rough, but also narrow. But had no trouble early since Cedar wanted driving up in a low-clearance vehicle, and was www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 39 lucky to not meet any oncoming traffic. The (small) parking lot was filling up at 10 a.m., but there was still space on the roadside. Might have had trouble turning around the car later; I’m surprised that there is no sign prohibiting parking at the end of the road.

The trail was in good shape: just a few small blowdowns (can step over) and damp patches (might get muddy after strong rainfalls or when the snow is melting). Near the saddle at the top I observed several parties losing the trail; watch for the cairns!

Encountered half a dozen parties on the way up, several people at the lookout, and a regular stream of people on the way down. Seemed like quite a few people didn’t make it past the copious amounts of blueberries in the upper meadows! lot of folks visiting Lake Valhalla today, neither Lake Valhalla. Photo the trails nor the lake felt crowded. The trails in Central Cascades by Abby Wolfe. this area are in great shape, and the fall foliage is just beginning its display, so this is a great time to visit, before the wet and winter set in.

Tonga Ridge, Fisher Lake WTA’s Corporate Green Trails Skykomish 175, Stevens Partners Pass 176 Lake Valhalla Sept 23, 2009 by Janice Van Cleve Alpine Green Trails Benchmark Mtn 144 More blueberries per square foot than I’ve $1,000–$2,499 Sept 26, 2009 by abwolfe ever seen anywhere in the Cascades! The Foss River Road is in good shape right up to the The Alpine Autumn is one of the best times to visit Lake junction to 6830, which is also in great shape Valhalla, so when friends suggested meeting right up to the Tonga Ridge trailhead. There is Experience there for lunch, I was boots-on. We arrived at limited parking. The trail is well graded and Smithbrook Trail (#1590) to find the parking lot drained, but the bracken and brush are en- Outdoor Research almost full; everyone had the same idea on this croaching again. There are a few blowdowns beautiful fall day. Drew and I made quick work that still have to be cleared. Nice views to the Pacific Marketing of the switchbacks, pausing to identify various west of Malachite, Bald Eagle, and Silver Eagle & Publishing plants and fungi (a surprising variety, consider- peaks. Pass the stone steps that start up Mount ing the lack of rain recently). As we continued Sawyer at 2 miles from the trailhead. At 3 miles SmartWool toward the PCT junction, we discovered a come to Sawyer Pass. There the blueberry lovely subalpine bog-meadow along a side trail, abundance will ensnare most hikers and they full of fall color. will forget time and destination while feasting. Therm-a-Rest® & MSR® Once on the ridge, the chilly breeze kept us To go to Fisher Lake is tricky. Proceed along moving, but the views were spectacular, with the main path (there are many braided paths in Zetron the foliage practically glowing in the sunlight. the pass) to a sign pointing left for Deception Alas, the berries are pretty much gone (we only Creek. Don’t go there. Turn right and go 100 found a meager handful)—but then, so are the feet to another junction. Turn left and go 25 To find out how bugs. Soon Mount Lichtenberg was in sight, feet to another junction. Take the right fork and your company can and then the lake. Dazzling! We saw a few follow it through more blueberries until it starts become a partner folks camped in the meadow, and met the rest climbing up a rocky, rooty washout that used in WTA’s work to of our party by the lake for lunch and laughter. to be a trail. At the top of the hill it levels out protect and main- to beautiful meadows of blueberry bushes with tain trails, contact The cool breeze kept us from lingering too bright red leaves and dark blue fruit. Climb a Rebecca Lavigne, long by the lake, and by 2:00 everyone headed second small hill, note two ponds on the left development direc- out: some to Stevens Pass, others continuing a and another broad meadow. The trail is clear tor, at (206) 625-1367 through-hike, and a few of us back to Smith- and doglegs to the right, over an old tree trunk or [email protected]. brook (roundtrip 6 miles). While there were a and then left for the final steep climb. From the 40 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

top is an easy, if rooty trail down 0.5 mile to poo, footprints: there was a lot of evidence but Fisher Lake. The lake itself is large, cool, and no goats. I reluctantly headed back down the clear. A great place for lunch. trail around 11:30 and kept looking up in the rocks and just as I was about to head down the big long open steps area … bam. there was Olympic Peninsula a goat! Yippee! Hurray! I was stoked! Then as I looked closer it was two goats and when I download the pics it was a mama and baby! How fun! Wished they were a little closer, but it’s all good. I was just happy to see them. I also saw a couple of these birds at the ridge. Many people coming up as I was cruising down.

I got in my car and headed down. Turned on the GPS and figured I’d let it take me home; that was my first mistake. At the end of the for- est service road where the sign is for Mount El- linor trailhead, I remembered turning right and GPS told me to go left for 3 miles and then turn on Slade Road and then turn on US 101. I lis- tened to GPS. Then I felt like I was in the movie Mount Ellinor “RV” with Robin Williams in my FJ instead of the motor home cuz I was on these logging Green Trails The Brothers 168, Mt. roads that kept getting smaller and smaller and Steel 167 then a logging truck almost took me out. Then Aug 31, 2009 by Hikingqueen GPS kept saying 0.7 mile turn right on US 101. Then it would say in 1.2 miles. Then another I was going to do something at Rainier but 0.7 mile. I had gone over 15 miles in circles and last minute changed my mind and went the there were Ts and Ys and I couldn’t remember opposite way in search of goats. I’ve read how to get back to where I knew where to go about all the goats in this area for a year or so. anymore. I figured I had keep going, trying to I left my house at 5:30 and got to the trailhead find a way out. I turned up this one little tiny around 7:30, not bad at all. I watched the sun- road. It was steep and narrow and I scratched rise from the bottom of the forest road. I was the both sides of the FJ. I heard the paint the first one in the parking lot today. The trail scratching as I got up this hill and then I saw started out really nice and then got meaner houses and RVs! Civilization at last! I pulled in after 0.5 mile. I used to like steps, but not after and begged this lady for help, who came right today. I stopped and rested many times and out. She got in her car and lead me out of the took in the views and looked for critters. When maze and had to unlock the gate, I was on Taking in the view I finally got towards the top I saw the parking private property now, oops! from Marmot Pass. lot below and two more cars had pulled in. I I apologized profusely and have no idea how Photo by Wade got to the summit and checked out the area, I landed there, but she was very nice and had Trenbeath. for an hour or so looking for goats, and finding an amazing view of Cushman from her plot on everything but the beasts themselves. Hair, which they were building a house very soon. Good times! Then I stopped for a shake in Hoodsport and sat in traffic on I-5 for a good hour. Rollover semi or something. So, good hike, just some drama in the end.

Tubal Cain Mine and Buckhorn Lake, Marmot Pass, Lower Big Quilcene River Green Trails Tyler Peak 136 Sept 25, 2009 by stephen.alvarado

Awesome! What an experience. I spent the weekend backpacking through the area with a few fellow men from church. Blessed with absolutely beautiful weather all weekend long, we could not have asked for a better day to be up in the mountains. We started at the Tubal www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 41

Cain Mine trailhead and camped near the B-17 We wanted to do this hike for years, glad we crash site in Tullis Canyon the first night. The finally made it! Guidebook says it’s a little-used next day we headed out to Marmot Pass. It was trail, and other than the one hiker coming another glorious day with a few clouds passing down, we had trail and lookout to ourselves. through. Along the way, we stopped for lunch Started about noon, 68 degrees, and the first at Buckhorn Lake, although Buckhorn Pond half of the trail is mostly shaded, but it felt seemed to be a more fitting name. The water like it was 80 degrees or more! No wind and level was pretty low with the deepest parts be- seemed a little humid, since we were both ing maybe only 3 or 4 feet deep. At least there sweating more than would seem normal for the still were some trout in there. One of our guys effort. The trail is very consistent in its climb, managed to catch three (too small, so he threw only three short stretches where it levels before them back). Afterwards, we headed back up resuming the uphill effort. the trail and made our way over Buckhorn Pass. From there on to Marmot Pass the views were The second half presented views of Mount absolutely incredible. The fall colors on the Rainier and the Cascades. We counted 6 or 7 mountains glimmered in the late afternoon sun mushroom varieties. Saw a doe with two large as the clouds quietly drifted in and out of the fawns along the trail, not in any hurry to move. valleys. We made it to Camp Mystery about an Started seeing fall colors, mostly vine maple or- hour before sundown and spent the night there. anges and huckleberry bushes turning brilliant On the last day we packed up and hiked all the red in the sunshine. Amazing profusion of ripe way back to Tubal Cain, with three of us mak- berries in a couple of locations, being shared ing a detour to summit Buckhorn Mountain. We with flickers and many other birds. Felt like an took the steep trail from Marmot Pass which enclosed aviary for about fifteen minutes on the was pretty rough and tiring with our packs on, trail with so many birds flying back and forth but it was totally worth the effort. through the trees and bushes. Enjoyed watch- ing a possessive grouse with its friends at the The view from up there at nearly 7,000 feet lookout, allowing us to share the incredible was incredible. On a day like today, we could 360-degree views. Cayuse and Chinook Pass see as far north as Canada and as far south as were visible, as well as the Cowlitz Chimneys. Mount St. Helens. Essentially, we could see the High thin clouds and haze obscured some of entire Puget Sound region, the Cascades, and the views west. beyond. The buildings in downtown Seattle were clearly visible as well. To the west, the adjacent mountains and hills were covered in a brilliant display of fall colors. I’ve never seen a sight quite like it; took some awesome photos. After admiring the views, we headed back to catch the ferry home. We stopped at Fat Smitty’s along the way and conquered the world-famous Fat Smitty Burger. Fun times! Mount Rainier

Shriner Peak Green Trails Mount Rainier East 270 Sept 23, 2009 by 2Walkrs 42 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

While the lookout could use some mainte- nance (securing loose boards, paint, etc). It’s a wonderful lunch spot for enjoying the “top of the world” feeling of the mountains and valleys spread out at your feet.

Back at the trailhead, we noted that it seemed more like 8.75 or 9 miles for this hike. And a big thank you to the trail crew who recently cleared the blowdowns!

Grand Park (back door) Green Trails Mount Rainier East 270 Sept 20, 2009 by Hikingqueen

Today I met another nwhiker and we headed up to Grand Park the back way via FS road 73; it’s exactly 10 miles to the trailhead. Lake Eleanor was very beautiful; there were a few fishermen trying their luck today. The trail is very easy, only a couple ups with some eleva- American Ridge in mid-summer. Photo by Craig Romano. tion. The berries are ripe now! Mushrooms are popping up in several places. Some muddy spots from the latest rain. Statement of Ownership and Circulation Publication Title: Washington Trails. Publication Number: 710-560. Filing Once we arrived at Grand Park it was breath- Date: 9/30/09. Issue-Frequency: Bi-Monthly. Number of Issues Published Annu- taking. The fall colors are just starting to turn. ally: 6. Annual Subscription Price: $35. Complete Mailing Address of Office of Views of mountain were fantastic! We had a Publication: Washington Trails Association, 2019 Third Ave, Suite 100, Seattle, wonderful lunch in a rocky spot just in front WA 98121-2430. Contact Person: Lace Thornberg. Publisher: Washington Trails of a red patch of color. My new trail buddy Association (at address above). Editor: Lace Thornberg (at address above). whipped up some Spam fried rice and it was Owner: Washington Trails Association (at address above). good! I normally have pb&j but this was really fancy, like Rachel Ray on the trail. Good times. I learned lots of good info on map reading, gear, fire starters, just a wealth of knowledge. South Cascades

Dewey Lake, American Lake, Cou- gar Lakes, American Ridge, Pacific Crest Trail: Chinook to White Pass Green Trails Mt. Rainier East 270, Bumping Lake 271 Sept 21, 2009 by Cruiznbye

Wife and I did a four day backpack trip in the Chinook Pass area Sept. 21 to 24. Started out at Chinook Pass at 11 a.m. and headed down www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 43 the PCT to Dewey Lake where we stopped for ended up hiking 19 miles over the four days. lunch and a rest break. Trail is in good shape. Most of the camping sites around Dewey are Blueberries were all over; we picked several Volunteer closed for restoration on both sides of the lake. cups for our oatmeal and packed 2 cups out Appreciation with us. Fall colors were great and the trail Parties Headed on down the PCT south to Anderson was not too dusty. Very few bugs to speak of Lake where we planned to camp, but found anywhere. Saw bear evidence on trail, but no WTA is ready to cele- out it was in the Mount Rainier National Park bears. brate the volunteers boundary, so no camping at the lake. There is that made 2009 an a camp just about 40 yards up the PCT and off amazing year! to the left about 150 feet from the trail marked Inland Northwest with a camp sign. We stayed the night at the Over 2,000 volun- “Basin Overlook Camp” and enjoyed sitting teers participated around Anderson Lake until the sun went in one or more down. Loads of blueberries and huckleberries. of our 700 work parties, helping Next morning (late) we headed down the us to complete PCT to the American Ridge trail junction and more than 90,000 took it to American Lake, a great lake and hours of service on lots of good camp spots. We got in so early to trails! From our trail American Lake (only 50 minutes from Ander- crews to volunteers son), that we set up camp and then headed off who contribute to with day packs down to Cougar Lakes. The the magazine, to trail to Cougar Lakes heads off of the Ameri- behind-the-scenes can Ridge Trail about a mile east of American office helpers and Lake. From there it doesn’t follow either the outreach volunteers, Green Trails map or my Delorme map on the WTA thrives thanks GPS. It has been rerouted to go higher on the Sawtooth Ridge, Blue Mountains to our volunteers. ridgeline and then drop down several steep Umatilla National Forest map, USGS and rocky switchbacks just above Little Cou- Godman Springs, Wenaha Forks gar Lake. Nearly all the sites at Little Cougar If you have volun- and between Cougar and Little Cougar Lake Sept 06, 2009 by steve teered with us this are closed for restoration. There was only one year, let us thank Few trip reports ever come from the Blue meadow place that we would have camped you properly at one Mountains, especially in late summer. Western in, but there is a horse camp just behind it. of our Volunteer Ap- Washington and the Cascades were deep in The trail to Cougar was rough and hard to preciation events. rain on Sept 6, so we went to the Blue Moun- determine as multiple paths go different ways tains behind Bluewood Ski area, and found as horse groups have simply chosen where a long trail on the Umatilla National Forest Friday, Nov. 6 – they want to travel and make their own path. map (14 miles long, winding up intersecting Seattle The lakes were beautiful, but the trail and the the Wenaha River Trail in Oregon). It was the camping were less than appealing. We hoofed beginning of bow season for deer, but since it it back to American Lake by 4 p.m. and went Sunday, Nov. 22 – was late morning by the time we got there, all for a swim to cool off and wash the dust off us. Vancouver, WA the hunters were in camp or on the road. The trailhead was easy to find, just down a quarter The next day we headed north on the PCT of a mile on a dirt path from the skyline road. Saturday, Dec. 6 – hoping to camp on the far side of Dewey Lake The Sawtooth Ridge trail is relatively flat. You Olympic (opposite the PCT), but after wandering the start at the top and just follow the ridge line Peninsula complete far side there were no places that into the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness. After were open to camp in except one at the top of about 5 miles the trail starts its decline to the Saturday, Dec. 12 – the lake where toilet paper, feces, and urine river bottom. Watch out for the side trail to Spokane, WA smell permeated the entire place (interesting Lady Springs on Burnt Flat, about 2 miles from that site wasn’t closed for restoration). So we the trailhead—the side trail is all we saw, and decided to try Little Dewey Lake and found Sign up at wound up hiking down Beaver Ridge instead of several great spots for camping on the north www.wta.org, Sawtooth Ridge. Not sure it made any differ- side of the lake. under the Work ence in the hiking, but that trail isn’t as long. Party schedule. No water on the trail, but still had wildflowers, We hiked out on Thursday from Dewey back and absolutely no other hikers or hunters. Some to Chinook Pass in 1.5 hours. All in all a great blowdown, especially past the two-mile point. four days of beautiful weather, beautiful lakes, Lots of wildlife sign, including bear. Would be and plenty of fresh air. There was only one especially beautiful in early summer right after other party at American Lake and one other the snow is gone and the wildflowers are at a party at Little Dewey. We had Anderson Lake peak. Also not bad for backcountry cross-coun- all to ourselves (along with a herd of elk that try skiing—ski up the Forest Service road that were bugling the entire night long.) All told, we passes Bluewood. 44 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

Nature on Trail »

Big brown bat. Illustration by Sylvia Feder.

Bats Unique and maybe just a little misunderstood

Have you ever caught a glimpse of a bat in At least 15 species live in, or frequently visit, gathering twilight? That brief glimpse of a the Pacific Northwest and they are an integral darting, furtive body gives only a hint to the part of the Northwest ecosystem. extraordinary stories these creatures can tell. Pacific Northwest bats hunt for insects over Bats are unique. For starters, they are our water, along cliff edges, or along meadows only flying mammals. (The misnamed flying or pastures beginning at dusk. After a quick squirrel only glides.) Myriad adaptations equip drink, bats begin to forage, using echolocation them for their unique way of life, perhaps the to locate their prey, zigging and zagging after most well-known of which is the use of echo- each one. Rapid high-pitched chirps bounce location by many species to find and procure off insects (as well as obstacles) and back to food. Taxonomically, bats constitute their own the bat, pinpointing their locations. Amazingly, scientific order, Chiroptera, which translates to bats’ close their ears off for a fraction of a mean “hand-wing.” This order consists of over second when emitting their chirps, then reopen 1,000 species and accounts for roughly 25 per- them to receive the returning echo. cent of all mammalian species. Bats eat a wide variety of insects and other Bats are also widespread. They live on every invertebrates, ingesting hundreds of insects continent except Antarctica and can be found an hour during peak foraging. After foraging, in virtually every habitat. They range in size they require a rest to digest the meal. Nursing from the world’s smallest mammal, the bumble- females may eat as much as their body weight bee bat, which weighs less than a penny and in insects. Males will eat somewhat less. Even has a 6-inch wingspan, to the flying foxes if you may not see bats when you are hiking, Sylvia whose wings can span 6 feet. you are sure to appreciate their efforts. Feder We may think of bats as eating insects and Bats’ day roosts are often close to their for- Sylvia is a hiker living in caves, but many bat species break this age areas and may be in houses, hollow trees from Covington who mold. Some eat fruit and nectar; others, fish. or other cavities. Like coyotes, raccoons and Many bat species do roost in caves, but one opossums, some bat species will exploit urban enjoys watching tiny species roosts on the underside of banana areas, roosting in attics and garages. Northwest wildlife. leaves and others may find shelter in burrows dug by other animals. People often think bats Nursery colonies (where young are born) may are related to rodents. They aren’t. Bats are ac- consist of hundreds of individuals. Bats also tually more closely related to primates like us. congregate communally to hibernate, a survival strategy during a time of year when food may www.wta.org November + December 2009 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 45 be difficult to find. It was previously assumed How to See Bats While Hiking that Pacific Northwest bats migrated or hiber- Important as they are to northwest ecosystems, nated to escape our cool, rainy winters. New bats aren’t often noticed by hikers because they research shows that two species are active in are small and nocturnal. The interested observer the Puget Sound region year-round. Both the can catch glimpses of bats by following these tips: California myotis and the silver-haired bat will • Watch for bats at twilight and dusk. Binoculars come out to forage on any mild, dry winter will extend viewing time by a few minutes. evenings. • Choose an open area; backlighting by the setting Two species commonly seen in Washington sun will help visibility. are the little brown bat (also known as the little • Bats are surprisingly common in urban areas: brown myotis) and the big brown bat. Common Green Lake in Seattle, Soos Creek Trail in South names aside, these are not as closely related as King County, and Capitol Lake in Olympia, to name you might think. The scientific name of the lit- a few. Check out www.batsaboutourtown.com for tle brown bat, Myotis lucifugus, means “mouse- bat walk schedules for Capitol Lake in Olympia. eared, fleeing from light.” The big brown bat • In the backcountry, consider any stream or river goes by Eptesicus fuscus, or “flyer, dusky-dark.” with adjacent old-growth forest for roosting. In general, bats can be difficult for novices to • Look for bats in spring, summer, or early fall, In tell apart in flight. Being larger and more likely winter, most bats will be hibernating. to fly over large open areas, big brown bats are more frequently seen, even though the little • Bats follow insects, so if you are encountering lots brown myotis may be more common. of insects, you are more likely to see bats.

There are many misconceptions about bats, More Bat Tips even among hikers and other outdoor enthusi- • A bat detector will allow you to eavesdrop on asts. The organization Bats Northwest (www. bats’ vocalizations. batsnorthwest.org) provides general informa- • If you discover a bat roost or colony, move away tion, bat houses, and guided bat walks, which quickly and don’t disturb the area. Bats can be very are great opportunities to learn more about sensitive to these disturbances. (You can report the these fascinating creatures. t find via GPS reading to Washington State Depart- ment of Fish and Wildlife.) • Don't pick up a sick or injured bat. A frightened bat may bite, and bats (though rarely) can carry rabies, which is transmissible through a bite. 46 » Backcountry November + December 2009 » Washington Trails www.wta.org A Walk on the Wild Side »

Hiking Haikus Steep a cup of tea and enjoy these poetic reflections of times on trail from WTA members

Trailblazers must pay Beneath cedar wings these switchbacks for cutting here, Golden circle now complete brutal, nasty, mean. We rise in your love —Amy Kramer Hawk —Mitchell Garmanian

NEXT Reader The late red flower Kicking Endless Steps Assignment: A boot slips in icy leaves At last I attain the crest Still steady up the trail Damn you false Summit! —Bob Coleman —Ron Fleck How many peaks will you bag in 2010? How Shaded river trail. Breathe deep this green air many trees will you White riffles, emerald pools. shaded by Terrestrial lungs hug? Ceaseless rushing sound! worthy worthy wood —John M. Harrington —Amy Kramer Hawk Where will you hike that you have never Sunlight in the trees Sliding down the chute hiked to before? a forest full of beacons so many ways home Now Arrest! Arrest! Arrest! Disaster denied. Send us your hiking- —Tang —Ron Fleck related resolutions for the new year (up to 250 Atop the summit An old logging trail words) by December 1. Storms loom on the horizon lumbers darkly through the woods Descent brings safety a shadow of trees You can email them to —Ron Fleck —Tang [email protected] or mail them to Washington Trails Association, 2019 Write your own haiku: When writing a haiku, it is imperative to keep in mind that Third Ave., Suite 100, the haiku traditionally adheres to some pretty strict guidelines in topics as well as form. Choos- Seattle, WA 98121. ing a topic for your haiku should involve great consideration around the kind of emotions you want to evoke in your readers. Traditionally, themes are unadorned and uncomplicated. Haiku imagery usually revolves around nature and communicates an abstract notion. The restricted form of the haiku does not allow room for much terminology, so choosing phrases that are packed with verdant description while setting a certain tone is essential. Titles are not needed because a haiku is consid- ered complete in itself. Learn more at www.haikusociety.com. Give the Gift of Trails

Photo by Erik Wipf

You already know how good it feels to support Washington The perfect gift Trails Association - the volunteer work parties that keep your trails in great shape year-round, the advocacy efforts in Olympia and Washington DC that ensure hikers’ voices are being heard, the online Hiker’s Guide helping you find your next outdoor destination. These are made possible only with your support. This holiday season, give your family and friends a gift that makes a difference: WTA membership.

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Recipient’s Name ______Membership Gift Level Recipient’s Address ______(Please Circle) ______$35 Hiker Your Name ______$50 Backpacker Your Address ______$75 Hiker Family ______$100 Trekker Total Enclosed $ ______$250 Thru-Hiker $500 Fireside Circle Payment By Check Visa / MC Card Number ______Exp Date: ______Send completed gift membership form and payment to: Washington Trails Association - 2019 Third Avenue, Suite 100 - Seattle, Washington 98121 ISSN 1534-6366 Periodicals c/o Washington Trails Association U.S. Postage 2019 Third Ave., Suite 100 PAID Seattle, WA 98121 Seattle, WA