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© Lonely Planet Publications 209 Island Provinces How do you say Romancing the Stone in Tok Pisin? Largely untamed and raw, the islands of PNG are not your classic beach paradise. Here you’ll live out your Indiana Jones fantasies, blazing a trail of your own amid wild jungles. The adventure starts by climbing the volcanoes near ISLAND PROVINCES Rabaul, looking for WWII relics on the Gazelle Peninsula, staying in villages on New Ireland’s east coast, paddling through lagoons mottled with pristine reefs near Kavieng, exploring the rugged beauty of Bougainville or escaping to an island off Lavongai (New Hanover). Be ready for a culture shock, too. These islands are home to tiny villages where people lead lives that have changed little over centuries. Nowhere else in the Pacific (except, maybe, in Vanuatu or the Solomon Islands) will the local cultures sweep you off your feet – just be sure to brush up on your Melanesian etiquette before you go. If you plan a visit in July, try to make it coincide with the authentic Warwagira Festival of masked dance. The islands’ bounty goes beneath the surface, with its unbeatable repertoire of diving ad- ventures. Shipwrecks, fish life in abundance and thriving reefs are the rewards of diving here. Surfies rave about the uncrowded waves off New Ireland (but you didn’t hear it from us). And then, once you’ve run out of stamina, opt for the trusted combination of a fruit cocktail, a hammock and a good book – you’ve earned it. HIGHLIGHTS Squeezing yourself into a wetsuit to explore underwater treasures, scuba diving among the world’s most fecund reefs in Kimbe Bay ( p59 ) or plunging into the wreck-strewn waters of Simpson Harbour ( p219 ) Scaling up extinct Kombiu (Mt Mother, p223 ) and feasting your eyes on the 360 degree views of Rabaul, Gazelle Peninsula and Mt Tavurvur Lavongai (New Hanover) Relaxing with a book and a fresh coconut on New Ireland's a blow-your-mind beach off Lavongai (New west coast Simpson Harbour; Kokopo Hanover; p234 ) and getting a taste of outer Kombiu island lifestyle Kimbe Bay Earning your intrepid stripes in Bougainville Bougainville ( p243 ), especially if you continue as an ‘end- of-the-road’ traveller with a trip to more remote places nearby Reflecting on New Britain’s turbulent WWII occupation when you visit the East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre ( p214 ) in Kokopo Experiencing timeless traditional village life on New Ireland’s west coast ( p237 ), staying in homestays and watching the ancient art of shark calling POPULATION: 523,000 AREA : 28,450 SQ KM 210 ISLAND PROVINCES lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ISLAND PROVINCES 211 0 100 km ISLAND PROVINCES 0 60 miles Mussau I North Solomons Province KILINAILAU (651m) Tulun Nai ST MATTHIAS GROUP Nuguria (Fead) (CARTERET) GROUP Group (100km) Lagoon Palakau Eloaua I Tench I Emirau I TAKUU Lemankoa MANUS Buka I (MORTLOCK) IS PROVINCE B P A C I F I C O C E A N Lontis Lorengau i Hanahan s m Tong I a Gagan 0 50 km Y s a b e l 0 30 miles Pak I r Lonohan HORNOS IS C h a n n e l c Tunung I Tsoi Boto k Mt Bei (498m) Hutjena Island Buka Buka Passage Rambutyo I Tsoi Bangatang I Kokopau ISLAND PROVINCES Island Sohano I Lenkau Naigasa Matanasoi Tinputz New Taiof I Siara Cape L'Averdy NORTH Cape Matanalem Sulaman I SOLOMONS Lou I See Manus Province (960m) Taskul NEW Umbukul Kavieng Emperor PROVINCE Enlargement Putput IRELAND Ranges Turumbal Lavongai TABAR IS (New Hanover) I (Nono) PROVINCE Inus Point Mangai Simberi I Kunua Meteran Panamafei Selapiu I Lokono Tatau I Bougainville Wuvulu I (Ninigo Group); Manus Province Baudissin I Kaut Wakunai Ponam I Andra I Fangalawa Mabua Mahur I Hermit Is Nusa Lik I Lavalai Boudeuse Ahus I Laraibina LIHIR GROUP Mt Balbi Cape Mabiri Ka'awa I Tulu Hawai I Los Lissenung I Namasalang Tabar I (2685m) Bay Negros I Mapearo Mabiri Seeadler Dyaul I Bagatere Bol A Masahet I Koripobi Sopa Sopa Harbour Panachais Fissoa Libba Mt Bagana Head Liap Asilima Sori S Konos r Londolovit (1730m) Crown Morgan Arawa Bay ch Bay Lessau Lombrum Cape Timeis l Lambuso Dalom Junction Tautsina I ISLAND PROVINCES Buyang Lorengau e Malom c Lihir I Manus I Lamusmus Tembin i n Torokina Kieta Bipi I Kontu i h Prince Arawa Momote t z Kanam Ugana Empress Panguna Worei River Loniu R a Lelet Plateau TANGA IS Aropa Passage Messi Puroro Guest House i Augusta Bay Orami Karu Bay Boang I Ranges Mt Dremsel Loi Kalili Plantation p Motupena Mt Takuan Sapondralis Malai (702m) Konogogo Karu Malendok I Point (2210m) Toimonapu Patusi M'bunai e Bay Lokabia Southwest Bay Kokola Boku Bay Point S New Ireland Namatanai l Western Is & I Uluputur Petersen Reefs Labur Bay a (50km) 0 50 km Fedarb Kabanut g Aku Ovau I 0 30 miles Sosuruya Buin Y Group B I S M A R C K o Malabita T See Gazelle DUKE OF Pakabong H Samo Kangu Lou I a Warangansau FENI IS L YORK GROUP M'Buke I Rei Peninsula Map n Muliana Fauro I MANUS A S E A s (pp214–15) M Danfu Ambitle I PROVINCE I R Suralil Babase D M Cape e Manga I A Kamdaru y SOLOMON Lambert Lassul e Shortland I ISLANDS Pam I Kamdarur Wapi R R Rabaul a Keravat n To Mwilitau To Sherburne Kokopo V g Kabisalao e e Rei (Purdy) Is Baluan I & Circular rr o (30km) Reefs (80km) Kait n (2399m) Malabonga Weitin Taron (2021m) R R Silur Pondo a Garove I Warango St Georges Lik Siar Liki ὄὄὄὄ Mt Sinewit Channel Icad Maliom (1360m) Lamassa I WITU IS Toriu Merai Bulayang Lambom I Open Ailo Unea I Lolobau I Bay Mt Biririnia Cape Tol (685m) Bali Ubili St George Willaumez Marunga Lake Dakataua Baia Peninsula Mt Uluwun Wide Mt Wangore Kimbe I Ulamona (The Father) Bay (1155m) (2334m) s Kimbe Bay Bubu n Tolokiwa I t Kalip Ewasse Talasea M o Bialla i Sampun Sakar I Hoskins Tarobi a Gloucester n g Garu Walindi a Pomio k Bambak Dauli Koimumu a Matong Sag Sag Mt Garbuna N Mt Talawe Nukuhu Gig Mt Pago Jacquinot a (1824m) Kimbe (742m) Malmal Siassi Kampalap Mt Andewa Mosa Bay Ubai EAST l V i Bairaman t Yangla Aisega Melkoi NEW BRITAIN i a (2027m) Ania River Lau z Pulie River W PROVINCE e Umboi (Rooke) I h i S t e m a g e t n R a n River p S O L O M O N S E A r a Alimbit WEST i Wasum River i t NEW BRITAIN Uvol New Britain Sialum Waku PROVINCE h Amio Kandrian c MOROBE Gasmata r PROVINCE NORTH A SOLOMONS Huon B Pinipel I PROVINCE Peninsula i s GREEN IS m a r c k Nissan I See North Solomons Province Enlargement S O L O M O N S E A Lontis Buka I 212 NEW BRITAIN •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NEW BRITAIN •• East New Britain Province 213 History of smoke and noise are not presently Kokopo NEW BRITAIN The Island of New Britain was settled around considered dangerous. Kokopo is an opportunistic town. It has lit- 30,000 years ago. The Lapita people, the world’s erally risen from ashes. Kokopo started to New Britain is awesome. PNG’s largest island, first true ocean navigators, arrived about 4500 Geography & Climate develop just after Rabaul was flattened by it has a bit of everything you’ve come to years ago, bringing pottery and trade with New Britain is a long, narrow, mountain- the volcanic eruptions of 1994. While you this country for – think colonial history, re- them. Several hundred years ago, the Tolai ous Island. The interior is harsh and rugged, can feel a palpable melancholy in Rabaul, markable traditional cultures and seriously people came from southern New Ireland and split by gorges and fast-flowing rivers and Kokopo reflects its optimistic view towards pristine wilderness (despite areas where there invaded the Gazelle Peninsula in northernmost blanketed in thick rainforest. The Pomio the future. The town emanates a sense of con- are logging and mining). The pièce de résist- New Britain, driving the Baining, Sulka and and Jacquinot Bay area receives more than fidence, pride and zing. But it lacks Rabaul’s ance? Volcanoes. The whole region is a rum- Taulil people south into the mountains. 6500mm of rainfall each year, while annual mysterious aura. bling, billowing string of cones and craters From 1874 to 1876 German traders estab- rainfall in the Blanche Bay and Simpson At least it’s serviceable, with a good range ISLAND PROVINCES cloaked with virgin tropical rainforest. Some lished settlements in the Duke of York Islands Harbour area is about 2000mm. The dry sea- of well-organised accommodation options, are dormant and harmless while others are and Blanche Bay. The area was renowned for son is between mid-April and November. banks, government services, a couple of in- scrappy villains that periodically flex their cannibalism. More missionaries were eaten ternet cafés and lots of businesses, but there muscles. In September 1994 Mt Tavurvur than heathens converted in some districts. Culture are no big-ticket sights. and Mt Vulcan erupted and destroyed most On 3 November 1884 a German protector- Most of the 184,000 people in ENB are If you come from mainland PNG, Kokopo of Rabaul, one of PNG’s biggest and most ate was declared and the German New Guinea Tolai who share many cultural similarities is a good base to set your body clock to alluring cities, in a furious rain of ash and Company assumed authority, which it held with southern New Irelanders.
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