canon ftb owners manual

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Itll make you feel better, wont it Use the above address for a check, M.O. or cash. NOTE they only print in Black and White. Bruksanvisning. It is a midrange mechanical 35mm SLR designed to use the FDfitting lenses from the Canon F1 range. In fact it is very similar to Canon FT with the difference that it uses the Canon FD mount lenses, allowing it to use FD lenses and the older FL lenses.The FTb has openaperture TTL metering covering an area of 12% in the center of the frame, with a matchneedle display in the viewfinder. Metering is powered by a PX625 1.35v mercury battery now unobtainable, but alternatives are available. Meter film speed range runs from 25 to 2000 ISO. Metering can be done with Canon FL lenses using the stopdown function on the .The stopdown lever returns to its original position when released, but can be locked. The mirrorup function can only be used when the stopdown lever is locked.Other cosmetic changes include a plastic tip to the film advance lever, a slightly different dial and a permanent cover to the flash connection. In fact it is very similar to Canon FT with the difference the FTb uses FD instead of FL lenses.The FTb had openaperture TTL metering covering an area of 12% in the center of the frame, with a matchneedle display in the viewfinder. Metering was powered by a 1.35v mercury battery now unobtainable, but alternatives are available. Meter film speed range ran from 25 to 2000 ISO.Other cosmetic changes include a plastic tip to the film advance lever, a slightly different shutter speed dial and a permanent cover to the flash connection. Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program.http://churchtextile.com/userfiles/husqvarna-viking-730-manual.xml

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In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page Relevant STILL CAMERA forum topics Canon PowerShoot A100 eszi az elemet!El ajandekoztam!!. Udv mindenkinek! Van egy digitalis fenykepezogepem Canon PowerShoot A100 0 es nem tudom hasznalni mert a legjobb tartos elemet is 2 perc alatt megeszi. FotoSzeretnem hasznalni weblap kesziteshez elegendo a felbontasa. CF kartyam is van bele valo csak ne enne annyi villanyt. Jelensegek. Nem melegszik. Nincs amper szaga sem. Minden normalisan mukodik csak hat nagyon rovid ideig. Ha van valakinek epkezlab 5lete varom a segitseget. Udvozlettel simonsen!Vasaroltam a helyi turkaloban egy canon a2hi videokamerat.Latszolag a kamera funkcional. Esetleg valaki nem talalkozott ezzel a hibaval ArpiEz t a kis keszuleket kivittek egeszen a Niagarahoz, hogy ott leejthessek es sikerult nekik. Meg volt szorulva az objektivez ezt szetszedtem kipiszkaltam a letort darabokat. Kimostam a mechanikus reszet, majd osszeraktam. ES igy kint 2Vrol meghajtva kitunoen mukodik. Ha osszerakom akkor elsonek elindul kitolja az obit, majd F18t ir ki. Mi okozhat ilyet Neztem hozza szervizkonyvet sajnos nem talaltam. Esetleg ebben tudnatok segiteni Koszi, udv. Izirajder Canon UC2000 kameranak video kimeneten hullamzik a kepe Udvozlet mindenkinek!http://huahan.com/userfiles/husqvarna-viking-6570-manual.xml Be kell digitalizalnom par osregi videokamera kazettat,problemam a kovetkezoa felvetelek egy Canon UC2000es kameraval keszultek es ezzel is akarom digitalizalni usbs digitalizaloval de a kamerat es a digitalizalot osszekotve ha felvenni akarok es a kamerat felvetelre teszem akkor jo a kep a monitoron es a kamera kis kukucskalojan is de ha a kamerat lejatszasra teszem akkor a kukucskalon jo a kep de a monitoron a digitalizalt jel mar fuggolegesen hullamzik es torz,mi lehet a problemaElore is koszonom a segitsegeket. UdvM Similar manuals You can write in English language into the forum not only in Hungarian. Photura series, 19901992, was innovative auto zoom 35mm rangefinder, cylindrical body like a movie camera, with zoom flash with guide number 15 meters to 25 meters built into the foldout lens cap. In downloading or viewing these files, you agree to hold James K Beard, Canon Inc.We are not responsible for the correctness of the files or any typographical or other errors that may be in any of them. The copyright ultimately resides with Canon. I believe that Canon has no objection to support of legacy Canon equipment so long as there is no charge, and third party support is limited to equipment that Canon no longer supports. However, I decided to post all the manuals that I currently have available as resources for those who maintain FL and FD mount , lenses, and cameras. As such I cannot vouch for their authenticity, quality or date of publication. If anyone has better quality scans, or, preferably better quality PDF files and would like to make them generally available, please put me in touch with whoever is appropriate for the proper arrangements to post them. You may order the full issues of the SPT Journal from Craig Camera here. These files get much larger in the process and the links are marked when this operation has been performed on them. I have no others in reserve or for sale.

This camera advanced the stateoftheart as the first of a new generation of TTL SLRs. NO MANUAL AVAILABLE Thanks to Ken Slavett for this manual. Thanks to Frank Johnson of San Francisco for providing this manual. Its purpose is to retain stored data while the AA batteries are not present. This battery will last practically indefinitely if good AA batteries are kept in the camera. The BR1225 and CR1220 are readily available online very inexpensively, or you may try the standard lithium battery number CR2025 that is available at any drug store. This battery is on the third printed circuit layer on the right side of the camera as viewed from the back. If you have a better copy of any manual that you would like to share, please let me know. Some important manuals are not available here. If you have any of these manuals and would like to share them, please contact me. These include, but are not limited to, both owners manuals and repair manuals for. It was an improved version of the FT QL, which had many of the advanced features of the F1 such as full aperture metering. It was one of the most complex mechanical camera designs, which had minimal electronics in the form of a CdS photocell meter. If you cannot find a replacement battery, then this camera will operate fine without it, however the light reading will be absent in the viewfinder display. It has an allmetal body consisting of clockwork mechanisms weighing 750g. Some of the problems involving a camera this old include a jammed shutter and the film advance lever not working. Unfortunately, this camera consists of extremely complicated Japanese designed microclockwork mechanisms, and very few people in UK fully understand its operation, or have the capability of taking it apart for repair. This will disengage the film compartment lock and open the back metal lid. Here is an amazing These levers lock into the mechanism within the camera body.

The exposure meter has a CdS photocell sensor placed in the closest position to the beam splitting condenser lens, which enables accurate measurement of light levels even in times when there is a backlight present. The rectangular frame in the viewfinder represents the light measurement area of the photocell. The two overlapping needles indicate that the aperture was set correctly for that particular shot at that particular light level. This allows the user to expose the same frame twice. More information is available from the user manual. Generally, people refer to the manual to determine how to use the double exposure system. You can then set the same frame in the exposure chamber and take a second exposure. The exposure meter is not necessary if you are familiar with the aperture settings. Replacement light meter is not available unless you can get a secondhand camera for the parts on eBay. There are also two exclusive electrical contacts available on the accessory shoe. You can buy them from eBay and Amazon at a very low cost these days. I would highly recommend it. Overall, this camera would be ideal for a first timer who wants to learn about vintage photography. Performance wise, this camera is very much on par with the Nikon range of the same era. The 50 mm F1.4 and all of its variants usually perform as well as any Nikon 1.4 in my experience. Please try again.Please try again.Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer no Kindle device required. Register a free business account If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness.

I managed to track down info on the Slow Shutter Governor, but the way it is presented is a bit, well, less than useful. The manual assumes that I will be totally dismantling the camera, and then discusses reassembling the SSG. One exploded diagram shows the SSG as being located beneath the mirror box, so Im guessing that this is the way to reach the mechanism to clean and lube it. Remove the mirror box. Any tips youd care to pass along regarding this process, Id be happy to read from you. Ive never had the mirror box out of an FTb, but I have removed it from Aseries Canons, Nikon Fs, and one Ricoh. Except for a few fiddly differences, they all appear to be fairly similar the way they come apart and go back together, I suppose. The front panel cant be removed without first unscrewing the stopdown arm from its drive lever, it is accessible, just, under the baseplate after removing the tripod plate. Quite a lot of work! I think Ill try the contact cleaner first and if it doesnt go well, Ill suck it up and do the dismantle. Ive already had the top cover off this camera several times and Ive had the prism out. So Im at least somewhat familiar with the areas youre referring to. I have not seen anyone mention this as that junk will just become a mess.But, I would remove the galvanometer, do not leave it there to be damaged. Put it under a wine glass away from the general work area. A little twelve watt soldering iron is all you need. There are 3 wires going to the CDS cell, one black wire to the meter, the wires on the deck lid are for the flash functions. On the TL model the rack does not go all the way to the left as when it is that position it is energy cell check mode. Do not place the meter movement on a steel desk top or container as the magnetism could be weakened or other wise destroy the movement. Wood bench is the king for precision work, trust me on this one. Check the screw lengths as if you put the wrong ones back in the retard mech.

If a little is good less is better. This my instructor in school would say. Capillary attraction will draw the oil into the surface you are oiling. Once you get the mirror box assy.With the camera upside down, remove the cam shaped plate on the take up. A duck feather works to clean off the focusing screen of fine dust or particles. Good time to put in a voltage drop or limiting device diode. I am not sure as any mention of speed check, but you can use an older CRT TV screen to check a focal plane shutter. The scan creates a strobe so you can see the slit on the upper speeds. I use that or a florescent lamp,this is a little more tricky, to see if the curtains are running good or they need a little adjusting. While this topic is on the Canon FTb I will present a little story on one. A late friend, Dieter, owned a camera repair store out west. Now what would be so unique that Dieter would do this. It actually stopped a bullet while he was in the field. You would think he would have placed it under a glass dome at home, but he didnt. So that is a comment on the stout construction of the FTb.The placement of the CdS cell is something I forgot to mention along with the small neutral density filter that generally sits in front of the cell, it is easily omitted on reassembly. Rick Olsen is also a fan of the crttv method of checking shutter speeds. I have tried the homemade electronic speed testers but havent had any success with them. Instead I rely on the Leica Drum tester as described on S K Grimes website. It is purely mechanical so it wont give any numerical data but allows shutter fade and bounce to be spotted very easily, something even fancy electronic testers cant always do. In case this thread starts reading like an FTb appeciation society, and they are great cameras, IMHO they were let down by the selective metering, full screen averaging would have been better.

For my money one of the best cameras of the mid 70s is the Konica Autoreflex T3, rock solid construction and shutter preferred AE. Without a lot of back tracking, I ran across a comment about a scratched lens. Gez, it appears that the Canon FTb also put a beam splitter in the condenser lens to send to the CDS cell also. This seams to make the microprism focussing a little dim. Maybe it is just me. Im going to do a cutandpaste and move your advice, along with the rest, into a single file that I can print out and follow when I begin to dismantle this camera. Gez, I guess we all have our own preferences, but I can tell you that one of the things I like best about the FTb and the F1, far as that goes is its hardedged partial metering pattern. Because of this feature, I am almost always able to position that rectangle in such a fashion that I can get an accurate exposure reading, one that is close enough so that even slides will be properly exposed. I have come to depend on this feature and really dont even need a spot meter. The ASeries Canons have the fullscreen averaging, and they are way too problematic for me when Im shooting slides. I owned an AE1 and A1 before I bought my first FTb or F1, but after I bought my first FTb, the Aseries cameras didnt get used anymore. And it was because of the way they metered a scene. Gez I always liked the Konica products. I found it interesting that they put a notch in there frame line to identifie there product. Just recently, I read an article about the press photographers doing the same thing. They would put a few notches in the film mask to identifie there work.I also carry my Bessamatics but I cannot afford the lenses for them so I have to make do with my Konicas.Make do is not fair to the Konicas,they are very capable cameras.Ron G The only camera to better the T3 was the Canon EF, and that was and still is a formidable camera, however it isnt as easy to work on as is the T3.

Konica lenses were as good as any and better than most, but perhaps for reasons of marketing, or lack thereof, at least in Britain, the Konica range didnt enjoy the success it deserved. Now, I dont need them precut. I have quite a few precision tools, including some sharp cutters, and I reckon I can cut and trim the foam. Alcohol Also, for oil, I have some very fine machine oil, perhaps 10w is that sufficient. I keep it in an applicator with a needle to deliver it on target. And when you mention grease I typically use a graycolored molybdenum disulfide grease for most metaltometal lube jobs such as this. It stays put and very little is required to do the job. Its great stuff. I even use it for automotive engine reassembly, so the metal to metal moving parts will have good lubrication before the motor oil is pumped to their locations. Do you think it will be acceptable for camera lubrication as well The Topcon repair manual points out checking for the light seal on the mirror box very well, check it out Topcon Super D. Before I acquired the foam, tried a piece of black thin yarn, but it is too fibrous. For a solvent to clean off the meter pointer, the Naphtha might work, or maybe a denatured alcohol, the EPA took all the good stuff away carbon tet, real MEK, freon, unless you can find a bottle at a garage sale, I use a solvet called One Dip which is for the hair spring on watches. This comes from a jewelers supply house Twin City, Jules Borel, look up on the net. Does this help On the back side of the mirror box assy.If it is, then this one definitely becomes a parts camera. Ill still do the work it needs, because I should learn how.I dont know how they keep getting on here. It took two weeks for me to get registered, but the spammers dont seem to have that problem. PF I too wonder how hes exploiting the registration delay. Well, anyway, I have another FTb comment. It is in nice shape.

Some light brassing on the corners, but only a few scratches and no dents or dings. The meter works and appears accurate. Only two areas that need attention it needs new light seals, and somebody swapped out the film crank lever and its cap with chrome ones. Im gonna swap out the ones off the problem camera with the chrome ones, and Ill at least have a clean black FTbn. But Im still gonna tear into the old one because I want to know how to do it. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here. Something went wrong. Looks like this page is missing. If you still need help, visit our help pages. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured powered by Verisign. In shooting terms, the FTb has a very smooth trigger pull, and far less recoil than anything other than the ultrasmooth New F1. Canon calls the FTbs mirror system the SMS, the Shockless Mirror System. There is no vibration, which therefore results in sharper pictures. It reads only from a central rectangular area, with matchneedle metering over a very wide range of light. If the range, which actually reads to 2.5 seconds wideopen even at ASA 400 isnt good enough for you, there is a booster available. Press the big lever at any time, and the lens stops down to taking aperture. Release it and the lens returns to full aperture exactly as it should. No other Canon FD camera has this ability. One of the reasons Canon gave up on the FD mount is that they never again were able to get a depthoffield preview lever to work as well as it does on this FTb, even on their professional FD cameras. I have no idea why Canon was never able to duplicate this on any of its later FD cameras, even the professional ones. Thats no problem; half the reason to shoot an FTb is to use the extraordinary FD L lenses. Its not 1971 anymore. The meter needle only needs to sweep a range of about 7 stops to cover the lens apertures.

The FTb actually optimizes the meters sensitivity depending on the shutter setting! The meter needles position autoranges as the shutter speed and apertures are set. It doesnt crowd the readings together at the low end as many other similar cameras do. Im so cheap with batteries that I try only to turn it on when metering. Asis, its on the top of the FTb and we move it with our left hands. You have to remove the FTb from its case not shown to use a tripod. Canon has deliberately locked this out; dont force anything, just choose any real aperture on your FD lenses before trying to mount them. I set ASA 40 for ASA 50 Velvia. Yours will vary. I found my meter was still working fine, even if out of range. It will stay open until unlocked. To release the mirror after your shot, move the little lever back to the white dot. Thanks! Ken. It costs you nothing, and is this sites, and thus my familys, biggest source of support. These places have the best prices and service, which is why Ive used them since before this website existed. I recommend them all personally. Its great people like you who allow me to keep adding to this site fulltime. Thanks! Thank you. Learn more opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions opens in a new window or tab Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods.

Learn More opens in a new window or tab Learn More opens in a new window or tab Learn More opens in a new window or tab Learn More opens in a new window or tab Learn More opens in a new window or tab Learn more Contact the seller opens in a new window or tab and request a postage method to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 1. Please beware that international shipping is usually 47 times the US shipping All Rights Reserved. We know from our users’ experience that most of people do not really attach importance to these manuals. Many instructions, immediately after the purchase, go into the trash along with the box, which is a mistake. Get acquainted with the information concerning the manual for Canon Ftb QL, which will help you to avoid troubles in the future. You will then acquire basic knowledge to maintain Canon Ftb QL in good operating condition to make it easily reach the intended life cycle. Then you can put away the manual on a shelf and use it again only in a situation where youre not sure whether you perform maintenance of the product appropriately. Proper maintenance is a necessary part of your satisfaction from Canon Ftb QL. Once a year, clean the closet where you keep all your devices manuals and throw out the ones that you dont use. This will help you maintain order in your home base of manuals. Why is it worth reading If something bad happens while using a Canon Ftb QL, you will have a set of documents that are required to obtain warranty repairs. It is in this part of the manual that you will also find information about the authorized service points of Canon Ftb QL as well as how you can properly maintain the device by yourself so as not to lose the warranty for the product. Use the instructions of the Canon Ftb QL manufacturer to run the product properly, without unnecessary risk of damage to the equipment.

You will also be able to find out what optional parts or accessories to Canon Ftb QL you will be able to find and buy to your device. This is a very useful part of the manual which will save you a lot of time related to finding a solution. 90% of the problems with a Canon Ftb QL are common to many users. Read to optimally use the Canon Ftb QL and not to consume more power than is necessary for the proper operation of the product. You will learn what additional features can help you use the product Canon Ftb QL in a comfortable way and what functions of your device are the best to perform specific tasks. It is good to get acquainted with it to avoid disappointments resulting from a shorter exploitation time of the product Canon Ftb QL than expected. However, if you cannot be convinced to collect manuals at your home, our website will provide you with help. You should find here the manuals for most of your devices, including Canon Ftb QL. They are 45 years old; but are built like a tank and still function like new. I have Canons original FTb Service Manual from 1971 in case the camera needs any shutter speed adjustment, light meter adjustment or other repair. There is a huge complement of very fine Canon FD lenses made for this camera and many very fine FD mount lenses made by other manufactures that are selling at giveaway prices. There are only two negatives that I can think of. The camera weighs much more than than the later more fragile Aseries Canon cameras and the exposure meter was designed to work on a 1.3V mercury battery that was outlawed by some very ignorant politicians who thought it would reduce mercury in the invironment. The alkaline batteries are 1.5V a nd produce a 2stop error in exposure reading. There two simple ways to correct this. One way is with an adapter in the battery compartment the other way is to insert a germanium diode in series with the battery. The mercury batteries lasted 15 to 20 years.

I have some that are 40 years old and still good. The replacement alkaline batteries have a very poor response curve and need to be replaced every year. I work at ICT International Camera Technicians in Mountain View and have access to the finest camera test equipment made and expert technicians that have been repairing cameras for over 50 years. This camera works great. Its easy to use and takes great photos. The only trick is finding the correct battery for the light meter. One of the greatest Canons ever made, surpassed maybe by the F1. Shoot shoot! Verified purchase Yes This item doesnt belong on this page. Cancel Thanks, well look into this. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.Learn why people trust wikiHow To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time.The replacement battery is a 1.5v alkaline battery 625a. The only issue is that the meter doesn’t read as accurate as it used to because of the change in voltage from the replacement battery. There will be approximately 10 seconds of lag. The type of is called the Canon FD which was introduced in 1971 and used on various canon models until 1987. Pull upwards on the rewind crank to open the back panel so that you can load a new roll of film.With two fingers, keeping the film down so that the film doesn’t rise, pull the film slowly to the right lining up the film perforations with the film advance sprocket. This moves the blank frames and unexposed film so that the camera is ready to take photos. Flip the rewind crank back into its normal position. Pull upwards on the rewind crank to open the back panel. This will allow you to remove used film. After turning on the Light Meter look through the viewfinder to the right side. The circle represents aperture, and the needle represents shutter speed. Move both the shutter speed and aperture until they line up to give you a better idea of what to set your aperture and shutter speed to.

You shouldn’t rely on this light meter though; although it can be a useful tool in guiding you, it is deceptive and not as accurate as it used to be. This is due to the change in voltage with the alkaline replacement battery because the original battery was a mercury battery. This will help you become more intuitive with using your manual camera. You should dispose of these properly. To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 13,860 times.By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Please help us continue to provide you with our trusted howto guides and videos for free by whitelisting wikiHow on your ad blocker. If you really can’t stand to see another ad again, then please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. Saying no will not stop you from seeing Etsy ads, but it may make them less relevant or more repetitive.Please update to the latest version. Both registration and sign in support using google and facebook accounts. Escape will close this window.Etsy may send you communications; you may change your preferences in your account settings.Learn more Support independent sellers. You guessed it black.Please Log in to subscribe.Register to confirm your address. Here are some useful linksMy coworker was doing some cleaning and found her old FTB camer. I recently got a very nice and clean FTb body from Ebay Japanese sto. Everybody has the FTb, but not the plain old FT. Theyre different enough that I need the manual. Im willing to buy it within reason. Thanks. Introduced in 1971 along with the F1 and Canonet QL 28, the FTb was positioned as the camera for advanced amateurs, while the F1 was for working photojournalists, filling the role as Canon’s answer to the Nikkormat. You can’t do that with an Aseries SLR. If weight is going to be an issue, I would use the late FDn lenses as they are lighter and, as mentioned earlier, these cameras were built like tanks.