THREADING Introduction & Theory

Just a few years ago, threading was a mystery to most of us. Using cotton thread to shape your eyebrows? That sounded crazy. The Western world chose tweezers, wax and even razors to create shades and gaps that make any eyebrow threading artist shudder.

Now, fortunately, threading has made its way to the Western world and became a technique lots of women and men have happily incorporated into their regular beauty regime. It is widely recognized as one of the quickest and most precise ways to remove facial hair and shape eyebrows.

Something we believe is an Ancient Eastern Art form and should only be performed by experts.

Whilst there is no precise date marking the start of threading, it is believed that this practice is up to 6000 years old. Originating from eastern cultures in India and Iran, threading was a way for women to remove unwanted hairs and create immaculate eyebrow shapes. It is also thought that Chinese women preferred threading, to any other form of hair removal.

The art of threading has been part of age-old traditions and rites of passage. For example, in Persia, it was thought that eyebrow threading marked a woman’s path into adulthood. A young woman had her eyebrows threaded just before she got married to signify her new wifely status. In other parts of the eastern culture, it is said that the shaped-brow marked a sign of female virility.

Threading was thought to be an affordable luxury and practitioners used cotton thread, looped and twisted, to create the perfect brow shape. But despite the ease and availability of cotton thread, don’t be fooled into thinking everyone can thread your eyebrows. It takes both training and skill to create a precise arch or beautiful curve.

THE ANATOMY OF THE HAIR

➢ Hair shaft- hair that is seen present above the skin ➢ Hair follicle- made up of an outer and inner root sheath which allows the hair to sit in through the various stages of hair growth ➢ Hair medulla- inner most layer of the hair ➢ Hair cortex- largest portion of hair and contains melanin ➢ Hair cuticle- horny outer most layer ➢ Sebaceous glands- produces oil- sebum ➢ Bulb region- largest part of the hair follicle ➢ Dermal papilla- indentation at the base of the hair follicle ➢ Capillary vessel- blood supply ➢ Matrix- helps the hair to grow- produces melanin which a source of pigment (color) for the hair

3 STAGES OF HAIR GROWTH

Phase 1 Anagen

➢ Active stage of hair growth ➢ Hair is healthy and growing at optimum level

Phase 2 Catagen

➢ Resting phase ➢ Hair stops growing and is not active as anagen

Phase 3 Telogen

➢ Shedding of hair takes place ➢ Old hair falls out and new hair starts to grow

FACTORS THAT AFFECT HAIR GROWTH;

Hormonal changes that occur in the body affect the thickness and growth rate of the hair in every individual:

➢ Pregnancy ➢ Menopause ➢ Stress ➢ Thyroid ➢ Puberty ➢ Eating disorder ➢ Polycystic ovaries ➢ Vitamin and iron deficiency ➢ Certain medications increase hair growth of the body ➢ Hirsutism- male pattern hair growth found on females- hair grows thicker on side burns, upper lip, chin and neck. The growth is thick and course.

WHAT IS THREADING?

Threading is an ancient method commonly practiced in Eastern countries like Egypt and India, but is becoming very popular here in the West. Threading removes the hair out of the entire hair follicle temporarily lasting up to 10-14 days.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

A cotton thread is twisted and pulled along unwanted hair in a twisting motion to trap in and lift hair right out of the follicle.

CONTRA INDICATIONS TO THREADING:

➢ Active eczema or psoriasis ➢ Severely irritated skin ➢ Cuts or abrasions in area ➢ Active herpes simplex- fever blisters or cold sores ➢ Extreme sun burnt skin ➢ When a client is undergoing laser hair removal ➢ When a client has just had skin resurfacing done

WHO CAN HAVE THREADING DONE AND WHICH AREAS:

FEMALE ➢ Over the age of 14 and under the age of 60. ➢ Full face, hair on fingers and hair on toes

MALE ➢ Over the age of 14 ➢ Eyebrows and forehead only ➢ Hair on the rest of the face is too thick to be threaded off

THE PAIN FACTOR

The discomfort is similar to tweezing but not as painful as waxing and the process is much quicker. Some people say they have very little pain from threading, but it has a lot to do with the skill of the technician. Use a warm compress to relax the hair follicle for an easier exit of hair. You may also numb the area before threading, make sure all numbing lotion is removed before proceeding to threading the area.

THE ADVANTAGES OF THREADING:

➢ It's extremely sanitary- Nothing but the cotton thread touches the skin, and it's thrown away after use for each and every person ➢ Great for people with "trouble eyebrows" - threading has this amazing ability to be so concise in the hair that it removes ➢ No chemicals are applied on the skin. When people have certain circumstances like taking medicines that conflicts with waxing and sugaring, they are able to turn to threading. ➢ It's very fast. Although every technician is different, it takes a person between 5- 15 minutes to complete a full brow shape

THE DISADVANTAGES OF THREADING:

➢ If done incorrectly, the hairs can break. If hair is broken from an inexperienced threading professional, hair re-growth will show up sooner and could possibly become ingrown ➢ It can be hard to find someone experienced threading hair. It's a true art that has been passed down through the generations ➢ Some hair growth is necessary - length of hair is needed for thread to wrap around. The hair needs to be 3mm long ➢ Not performed on the body only the face.

THE 3 METHODS OF THREADING:

1. BUTTERFLY

2. SCISSORS

3. MOUTH

THREADING PRACTICAL

➢ Always use a new piece of cotton thread for every client ➢ Twist cotton thread a maximum of 5 times only- if you twist to many times cotton thread becomes too tight and will barely move ➢ Always remember we thread either against hair growth or in line with hair growth ➢ Ask client to support the area being threaded - placing the tongue underneath upper lip area or use both hands to pull the skin making it taught for the eyebrows

(A) UPPER LIP

(B) EYEBROWS Arch Body Tail

Made up of the:

➢ Body- thickest part of the brow ➢ Tail- thinner part of the brow ➢ Arch- point at which the body and tail meet and forms a curve

STEPS TO TAKE WHEN THREADING EYEBROWS

Skin around the eyes are four times thinner than the skin on the rest of the face

➢ Comb and trim eyebrows neatly before you start threading - prevents long hairs that are in the way from getting threaded out. Also gives a more defined shape. ➢ Consult fully with the client regarding eyebrow shape. Once the hairs are removed, they won’t grow back straightaway. ➢ Apply pre-wax lotion / oil free make up remover to remove any make up or oil present on the surface of the skin ➢ Mark eyebrows accordingly using a sharp eyebrow pencil

1. Start of body (measure from nose side wall)

2. Arch (measure from nose side wall)

3. End of tail (measure from nose side wall)

4. Body and tail length must be in line with other

5. Arches must be at same height

➢ Ask client to hold skin taught while you are threading - failure to do so will result in the client getting cut. ➢ Using one of the three methods, take a clean new piece of cotton thread and balance the cotton thread to make sure you remove unwanted hair out in a clean line - use the markings you have made as a guideline ➢ Once you have completed threading both eyebrows use some cotton wool and wipe away markings using post wax lotion. This will also help soothe the area.

NOTE: Inform your client to get their eyebrows tinted prior to threading. The hair becomes darker and gives a more defined shape. This makes it easier for you to see the hairs that are not part of the shape and need to be removed.

Threading is a technique that requires time and practice.

Try working on larger areas like legs and arms to develop your speed and dexterity skills.

How to practice threading on yourself

Aftercare Advise

➢ Post threading it’s is really important to avoid touching the threaded area. Your pores will be wide open to irritation. ➢ For the next 24 hours avoiding swimming pools, saunas, steam rooms, hot temperatures and direct sunlight in general. ➢ Spray tans and wearing makeup on threaded area are also vetoed. ➢ If this sounds restrictive, remember that after a day or so any inflammation should have subsided, so you’ll be free to fully relish your beautiful new hairless skin. ➢ Avoid hot showers where possible, and splash the threaded area with cold water to cool the heat you’ll feel after the treatment and to tighten the pores. ➢ A cold compress can work wonders. ➢ Avoid potential irritants, fragrance, scrubs and harsh acids around the threaded area for at least a few days.