PA METRIC RECIPE TABLES Best Bets for Stocks ...... 2·296–297 Thickening with Natural Starch ...... 4·28 Stock Aromatics ...... 2·298 Thickening with Modified Starch...... 4·30 Broths ...... 2·304–305 Thickening Cold Liquids ...... 4·46 Infused Liquids ...... 2·310 Thickening Hot Liquids ...... 4·47 Lowering pH ...... 2·314 Making Milks and Creams ...... 4·56 Adding Flavor with Alcohol ...... 2·317 Edible Films ...... 4·60 Using Essences and Extracts in ...... 2·325 Cooking Whole ...... 4·78 Extracts ...... 2·326 Pickled and Preserved Eggs ...... 4·82 Infused Fats ...... 2·329 Separated Gels ...... 4·85 Jus ...... 2·344–345 Blended Egg Gels ...... 4·92 Consommé ...... 2·374–375 Dairy and Eggs ...... 4·100 Vegetable and Fruit Purees...... 2·425 Protein Curds ...... 4·104 Freeze-Drying ...... 2·451 Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) ...... 4·116 Tartares ...... 3·63 Cold Gels ...... 4·140–141 Cooking Tender Meats ...... 3·96 Firm Coating Gels ...... 4·151 Cooking Tender Red Sous Vide ...... 3·99 Hot Gels ...... 4·160 Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide ...... 3·99 Hot Fruit Gels ...... 4·165 Cooking Fish Sous Vide ...... 3·102 Methylcellulose Gels ...... 4·171 Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide ...... 3·103 Fluid Gels ...... 4·177 Cooking Tough Poultry ...... 3·108 Spherification ...... 4·187 Cooking Tough Shellfish ...... 3·108 Constructed Cheeses ...... 4·223 Cooking Tough Cuts ...... 3·109 Airs, Bubbles, and Froths ...... 4·264 Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ...... 3·146 Light Foams...... 4·270 Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide ...... 3·146 Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ...... 4·278–279 Brines ...... 3·168 Set Foams ...... 4·288–289 Wet Cures ...... 3·169 Puffed ...... 4·302 Dry Rubs ...... 3·169 Brining ...... 3·172 Curing ...... 3·172 ST TEGIES TABLES Smoking Meats and Seafood ...... 3·210 Cooking in CVap Ovens and Combi Ovens ...... 2·170–171 Burgers ...... 3·234 Using a ...... 2·185 Coarse-Ground Sausages ...... 3·236–237 Sous Vide Cooking Strategies ...... 2·204–205 Emulsion-Style Sausages ...... 3·238–239 Water Bath Strategies for Cooking Sous Vide...... 2·244 Fermented Sausages ...... 3·244–245 Cooling Sous Vide ...... 2·255 Gas-Ripened Fruit ...... 3·285 Freezing Sous Vide ...... 2·259 Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender ...... 3·288 Thawing Sous Vide ...... 2·263 Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Until Tender ...... 3·289 After Sous Vide ...... 2·270–275 Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Purees ...... 3·290 Juicing ...... 2·336–337 Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender ...... 3·291 Thickening Sauces, Jus, and Glazes ...... 2·346 Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender ...... 3·292 Filtering Liquids and Clarifying Consommés ...... 2·352 Warming Vegetables Sous Vide ...... 3·292 Concentrating ...... 2·379 Sous Vide ...... 3·293 Grinding, Milling, and Pureeing ...... 2·400 Potato Purees ...... 3·297 Drying ...... 2·430 Pressure-Cooking Plant ...... 3·300 Cooking with Liquid Nitrogen ...... 2·459 Risotto ...... 3·305 Rendering Fats ...... 3·145 Microwaving Vegetables ...... 3·311 Marinating ...... 3·192 Naked ...... 3·320 Making Emulsions ...... 4·208–209 Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips ...... 3·328 Creating Foams ...... 4·258–260 Batters ...... 3·333 Preservation ...... 3·348 Heat-Treated Fruit ...... 3·359 Smoked Plant Foods ...... 3·362 Dehydration ...... 3·366 Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ...... 3·372 Doughs ...... 3·381 Compressing or Impregnating Produce ...... 3·390 Page references of the form 4·381 refer to volume 4 , page 381

INDEX LV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 55 3/22/11 10:56:30 AM STEPBYSTEP PROCEDURES HOW TO Wash Your Hands Properly ...... 1·198–199 Fillet a Flatfish ...... 3·57 Read the Phase Diagram of Water ...... 1·302–303 Prepare Abalone ...... 3·58–59 Make Exceptional Ice Cream with Liquid Nitrogen ...... 1·311 Slice Fish for Nigiri-zushi ...... 3·60 Supercool Water ...... 1·312 Flash-Cook with Hot Oil, a Torch, or a ...... 3·61 Measure Relative Humidity ...... 1·322 Cryoshatter for Tartare...... 3·64 Read a Psychrometric Chart ...... 1·323 Precook Duck Skin ...... 3·82 Find the Sweet Spot ...... 2·16–17 Cook the Perfect Hamburger Sous Vide ...... 3·86 Calculate the Sweet Zone of Your Broiler ...... 2·22–23 Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ...... 3·114 Make Your Electric Broiler Perform Cryosear a Duck Breast ...... 3·124–125 Like a Wood-Fired Oven ...... 2·26–27 Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ...... 3·125–126 Season a Wok or Frying Pan...... 2·53 Cook Crispy Fish Skin and Make Fish Skin Pillows ...... 3·130–131 Pack in Canning Jars ...... 2·78 Brine or Wet-Cure Meat: Equilibrium Method ...... 3·170–171 Sterilize Acidic Canned Foods in Water ...... 2·81 Speed Brine or Wet-Cure by Injection or Vacuum ...... 3·174–175 Use a Pressure Canner ...... 2·89 Vacuum Tumble ...... 3·175 Braise or Pot-Roast Meat...... 2·99 Pressure Marinate ...... 3·207 Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ...... 2·174–175 Pack and Light Your Smoke Gun ...... 3·214 Roast a in a Combi Oven ...... 2·178–179 Grind Meat and Fat ...... 3·228 Vacuum Pack Food with a Chamber Sealer ...... 2·218–221 Form and Finish a Sausage ...... 3·240–241 Vacuum Pack Food with an Edge Sealer ...... 2·224 Ferment Sous Vide ...... 3·245 Cook in a Bath Set to Final Temperature ...... 2·246 Choose and Use Activa ...... 3·254–256 Cook in a Bath Set Hotter Than Final Temperature ...... 2·246 Rejoin Seam-Boned Cuts ...... 3·255 Cook in Multiple Baths ...... 2·248–249 Make a Leaner Rack of Lamb ...... 3·255 Freeze Food in a Salty Brine ...... 2·260 Bond with the Slurry Method ...... 3·256 Pressure-Cook Stock ...... 2·293 Reconstruct a Whole Fish ...... 3·256 Make Stocks: Basic, White, Shellfish, or Rich Brown ...... 2·297 Ripen on Command ...... 3·285 Make Stock Sous Vide ...... 2·302 Blanch Sous Vide ...... 3·293 Wash Citrus Oil ...... 2·321 Make the Ultimate French Fry ...... 3·322 Extract Juice from Plants with Pectinase ...... 2·336 Measure Thickeners ...... 4·23 Extract Juice by Osmosis or Freezing ...... 2·336, 337 Disperse a Thickener ...... 4·24–25 Keep Fresh-Squeezed Juice Fresh ...... 2·339 Hydrate a Thickener ...... 4·26 Clarify Juice with a Buon Vino Pressure Filter ...... 2·355 Peel an Egg with Liquid Nitrogen ...... 4·78 Vacuum Filter ...... 2·357 Make a Perfect Soft- ...... 4·79 Balance a Centrifuge ...... 2·363 Use Ion-Coagulating Gels ...... 4·129 Separate Liquids by Centrifuging ...... 2·364 Use a Sequestrant ...... 4·129 Separate Fresh Butterfat from Cream ...... 2·366 Cast Gels ...... 4·132 Filter with Gelatin Ice ...... 2·370–371 Mold Gels and Suspend Solids in Gels ...... 4·133 Clarify Liquids with Agar ...... 2·372–373 Cast Thick Gel Sheets and Make Gel “Linguine”...... 4·134 Reduce Juice in a Vacuum ...... 2·381 Mold and Freeze Gel Spheres ...... 4·135 Distill with a Rotavap ...... 2·388 Make Firm Gel Beads and Droplets ...... 4·136–137 Freeze Concentrate ...... 2·397 Extrude Gel Noodles ...... 4·138–139 Mill a Creamy Nut Butter ...... 2·418–419 Quick-Set a Fluid Gel and Make a Coarse Fluid Gel ...... 4·179 Use a Spray Dryer ...... 2·442 Suspend a Solid in a Gelled Sphere ...... 4·187 Cryopoach in Liquid Nitrogen or Oil ...... 2·460 Create Reverse Spherification ...... 4·187 Cryograte and Cryopowder ...... 2·461 Make Clarified and Brown Butter ...... 4·213 Disassemble Fruit with Liquid Nitrogen ...... 2·462 Make Edible Prune Coals ...... 4·314–315 Cryoshape and Cryoshatter ...... 2·463 Set Up a Triangle Test ...... 4·336 Carbonate a Liquid ...... 2·468 Hyperdecant Wine ...... 4·343 Carbonate Fruit ...... 2·469 Taste Coffee Like a Pro ...... 4·365 Preserve the Freshness of Truffles ...... 2·470–471 Use a Brewing Control Chart ...... 4·366–367 Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ...... 2·472 Grind Beans for Espresso ...... 4·377 Kill Fish with the Ike Jime Method ...... 3·38 Groom a Portafilter ...... 4·381 Dry-Age Meat ...... 3·42 Tamp Evenly ...... 4·382 Seam-Cut a Lamb Leg ...... 3·46 Pull an Espresso Shot ...... 4·386–387 Dissect a Pork Shoulder ...... 3·48–49 Steam Milk ...... 4·390 Block Tuna ...... 3·54–55 Make Latte Art ...... 4·394–395 Prepare Tender Squid ...... 3·56 Clean an Espresso Machine ...... 4·397

LVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 56 3/22/11 10:56:30 AM AGING A INDEX

acorn squash, cooking sous vide, Adrià, Ferran (continued) Aduriz, Andoni Luis (continued) parametric recipe for, 3·289 hired at elBulli, 1·33–34 Monk sh with Constructed Skin acrolein, in reused deep-frying oil, homemade sodas by, 4·239 recipe, 3·132 A 2·124, 125 hot and cold pea soup of, 4·176 Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito A&P grocery stores, innovations of, 1·21 acrylamide Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe, Stock Veil recipe, 4·168 abalones as Maillard reaction product, 1·220 4·293 Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu in reused deep-frying oil, 2·125 Hot Bu er Foam recipe, 4·283 Vegetable Coals recipe, 3·375 with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203 actin, in muscle, 3·6 Hot Egg recipe, 4·227 Watermelon Meat recipe, 3·394 biology of, 3·26, 27 Activa, 3·250–256 innovations of, 1·5, 36 Aerated Chocolate, 4·313 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe characteristics of, 3·250–252 intellectually motivated cuisine of, Aerated Co ee Ice Cream, 4·312 for, 3·108 choosing and using, how to, 1·52 Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311 Japanese cu ing of, 3·52 3·254–256 liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 64, 65 Aerated Gruyère, 4·312 preparing, how to, 3·58–59 for  sh skin pillows, 3·131 Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 4·193 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311 absolutes, from concretes or oleoresins, forms of, 3·252, 253 McGee on experiments by, 1·46 aerating wands, 4·391. See also handheld 2·320 gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117 Melon recipe, 4·189 whipping wands; steam wands absorption meat purees and, 3·233 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake aeration, vacuum-assisted, 2·214 by graybodies, 1·286 molding sausage with, 3·241 recipe, 4·294 Aero candy, 4·254, 312 of radiation, 1·285 production process for, 1·257 on misleading appearance of aerobic bacteria, 1·130, 135–136 Abu I-Hasan “Ali Ibn Na ,” 1·10 properties and uses of, 3·253 creations, 5·60 vacuum packing and, 2·208 AccuSteam , 2·41, 158 rea aching cooked skin to meat Modernist cuisine and, 1·57 aerobic endurance, slow-twitch muscle acetaldehyde, citrus  avor and, 5·149 with, 3·122 Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres  bers and, 3·14, 22–23 acetic acid. See vinegar rejoining seam-boned cuts with, recipe, 4·191 aerogels, history of, 4·72 Achatz, Grant 3·255 Osso Bucco Milanese recipe, Aerola e milk frother, foam forming Bacon Chips with Bu erscotch, as sausage binder, 3·223 5·60–65 with, 4·258, 260 Apple, and  yme recipe, 3·189 slurry method of applying, 3·256 Oysters with Mignone e Air recipe, AeroPress co ee brewer, 4·370 Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 4·34 Activia (probiotic yogurt), 3·252 4·265 Africa, ingredients imported to, 1·15 biography of, 1·68 additives. See also preservatives pacotized powders by, 2·407 agar on copying dishes, 1·71 to centrifuged liquids, 2·368 Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 4·35 clarifying liquids with, 2·372–373 critics on, 1·63 fresh juice taste and color and, 2·338, on potato purees, 3·296 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, 339 on , cooking whole, 4·75 4·140 3·366 popular perception of, 1·250 Shell sh recipe, 4·162 for edible  lms, parametric recipe recipe, 4·86 public scandals involving, 1·252–254 Cloud recipe, 4·299 for, 4·60 on elBulli meal, 1·38–39 adhesives, for breading, 3·338 on spheri cation, 4·184 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 Modernist cuisine and, 1·52, 62, 67 Adler, Alan, 4·370 spheri cation developed by, 5·256  ltration with, 2·352 Mozzarella Balloons recipe, adrenaline, slaughterhouse practices spheri ed olives of, 4·126 for  uid gels, 4·176 4·110–111 and, 3·34 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso o parametric recipe for, 4·177 Pineapple Glass recipe, 3·370 Adrià, Albert, 1·35, 2·369, 4·37 recipe, 3·397 as foam stabilizer, 4·257 Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 3·107 Adrià, Ferran Steingarten on, 1·65 French chefs’ use of, 4·128 Steingarten on, 1·65 Achatz’s meals at elBulli and, 1·38–39 Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173 fruit juice gels and, 3·195 Tro er and, 1·69 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37 on technoemotional cuisine, 1·57 gel  ltration with, 2·369 Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe, Agar Carbonara recipe, 4·161  ickened Oil recipe, 4·230 as gelling agent, 4·68 4·183 Beet recipe, 4·295 Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe o for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe, Black Olive Puree recipe, 4·230 recipe, 4·143 for, 4·165 4·35 Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe, worldwide fame of, 1·38–40 for hot gels, parametric recipe for, a c i d i  e r s 4·304 adsorption, 2·138, 4·13 4·160 bu ering and, 2·315 Blood Orange Foam recipe, 4·272 Aduriz, Andoni Luis interactions with other thickeners, example recipes for, 2·315 books by, 1·35–36, 59 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37 4·44–45 parametric recipe for, 2·314–315 Cappuccino Foam recipe, 4·266 Clay Potatoes recipe, 3·398 for light foams, parametric recipe acidity of food. See also pH as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258 compression and, 5·285 for, 4·270 boiling-water sterilization of canned Cauli ower Couscous of, 3·388 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles natural sources for, 1·253 foods and, 2·81 Corn Foam recipe, 4·273 recipe, 4·267 product guide for, 4·II–III canning method and, 2·76 creativity of, 1·71 foams and, 4·264 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 pressure-canning and, 2·85–91 Crimini in Amber recipe, 4·154 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice for thick foams, parametric recipe USDA canning guidelines and, critics on, 1·62, 63 and Sea Le uce recipe, 3·149 for, 4·278–279 2·79–80 on dining as dialogue, 1·37–38 Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe, thickening sauces, jus, or glazes acids or acidic compounds. See also pH; fast hot-spring quail eggs and, 4·78 3·399 with, 2·346 speci c compounds foams and, 4·264, 281 Green Pea Pods with Citrus Agar Carbonara, 4·161 as acidi ers, 2·314–315 foams pioneered by, 1·36, 4·244– and Walnut Oil recipe, 4·171 Aged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6 for marinating, 3·190, 192–193 245, 254, 255 on hepatic steatosis and foie gras, aging pH and, 3·194 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe, 3·139 of co ee beans, 4·358 plant food cooking and, 3·276, 278 4·300 Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123 of Dover sole for sole meunière, 3·40 protein gelling and, 4·70 future of, 1·35 “Into the Vegetable Garden” and, of meats acidulants, thickening with, 4·13 Ham Consommé with Melon Beads 3·294 enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78 recipe, 4·48 Modernist cuisine and, 1·57

INDEX LVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 57 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM A AGING

aging (continued) alcohol (ethanol) (continued) anaerobic bacteria apple cider/apple juice (continued) holding at speci c temperature vacuum pressure vs. boiling point of, canning and, 1·136, 138, 148 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and and, 2·247–248 2·391 characteristics of, 1·130 Cabbage Juice, 2·389 sous vide technique of, 2·250 alcohols, as by-products of ethanol curing salts and, 2·143 apples of wine distillation, 2·384 facultative, 1·136, 138 Bacon Chips with Bu erscotch, screw tops for wine bo les and, alcohol sanitizers, 1·200 pasteurizing and, 2·249–250 Apple, and  yme, 3·189 4·344 alcoholic fermentation, 3·346 refrigeration and, 2·257 Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212 storage conditions for, 4·345–348 Alexander, Alexander, 4·40 sous vide cooking and, 2·206–207 compressing, parametric recipe for, agricultural science, food science and, Alexander the Great, 1·12 toxin production by, 1·135–136, 141 3·390 1·48 alginate. See also propylene glycol vacuum packing and, 2·209 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe agriculture, early civilization and alginate; sodium alginate anaerobic endurance, fast-twitch muscle for, 3·288, 290, 291 development of, 1·6–7 fat incorporation into sausage with,  bers and, 3·14, 22–23 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393 AGS (Anderson, Greenville, 3·225 analytical scales, 4·23 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, Spartanburg) vacuum packing system, interactions with other thickeners, anaphylaxis, food allergies and, 3·366 1·40–41 4·44–45 1·238–239 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, air. See also drying; relative humidity as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127, anchovies 3·372 ambient, for thawing, 2·263 129 Bagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230 Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103 in carbon dioxide containers, 2·464 natural sources for, 1·253 Caesar Salad, 3·373 Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166 as foaming gas, 4·254 production process for, 1·257 Andalusia, Spain, Islamic courts and impregnating, parametric recipe for, in ovens, heat conduction by, 2·102 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 gastronomy of, 1·10 3·390 pressure-canning and, physics of, as sausage binder, 3·223 Anderson, Greenville, Spartanburg Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 2·87 spheri cation using, 4·184 (AGS) vacuum packing system, 4·276 warm, drying with, 2·431–433 thickening with, parametric recipe 1·40–41 preserving, parametric recipe for, water vapor in, 1·319–321, 325 for, 4·46, 47 Anderson, Sco , Crispy Sweetbreads 3·348 L’Air du Temps, 1·70 uses of, surprising, 4·127 recipe, 3·150 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 air pockets, sausage stu ng and, 3·227, Aligoté wine, 4·327 Ando, Momofuku, Chikin and Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20 230 Alinea, 1·67, 68. See also Achatz, Grant Space Ramen created by, 5·247, 248 smoking, parametric recipe for, air pumps, aquarium alkali earth metals, 4·126 Andrés, José 3·362 foam forming with, 4·258, 260 alkaline marinades, 3·190, 194–195 Adrià and, 1·36 applejack, freeze-concentrating hard for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241 pH and, 3·194 Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe, apple cider for, 2·396 airs alkaline ramen pasta, parametric recipe 4·188 apricots best bets for, 4·264 for, 3·381 critics on, 1·63 Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171, example recipes for, 4·265 Alléno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67 173 parametric recipe for, 4·264 recipe, 3·98 Steingarten on, 1·65 compressing, parametric recipe for, Ajinomoto Company, 1·213, 3·251 allergies, to foods, 1·238–239 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato 3·390 Al Sorriso, 1·28 almonds Chips recipe, 4·287 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Alajmo, Max and Raf, 1·70 Almond Polenta, 4·36 androstenone, tru e smell and, 4·350 for, 3·288, 291 albedo, of radiation, 1·285 bi er, cyanide aroma and, 3·262 Angus ca le, 3·39 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, albumin, as  ning agent, 2·360 Nougatine, 5·25, 29 animal fecal contamination, 1·116–117 3·366 albumin powder Marcona Almond Bu er Paste, animal  esh, contamination by, 1·117 Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293 for bubbles, parametric recipe for, 5·281, 282 anisakids, 1·122–123, 182, 190, 194 impregnating, parametric recipe for, 4·264 Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59 Anisakis simplex, 1·122–123, 174 3·390 for light foams, parametric recipe almond milk, parametric recipe for, Ankimo Torchon, 3·147 preserving, parametric recipe for, for, 4·270 4·56 antifoaming agents, 4·244, 247, 257 3·348 for set foams, parametric recipe for, Almond Polenta, 4·36 antioxidants Aprile, Claudio, 1·70 4·288–289 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39 in herbs, aging braises and pot roasts aquarium air pumps and bubblers for thick foams, parametric recipe altitude and, 2·98 foam forming with, 4·258, 260 for, 4·278–279 and, 2·113 in smoke, 2·143 for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241 alcohol (ethanol). See also spirits; speci c boiling point and, 1·318 AOC (Appellation d’Origine Arabica co ee beans, 4·358 alcoholic beverages aluminum cookware Contrôlée) system, for French wine Archaea, as domain on tree of life, 1·130 in ba ers, 3·316 conduction in, 1·280 production, 4·331, 332 L’Archestrate, 5·109 co ee brewing in, 4·371 heat capacity of, 1·278 Apicius, 1·10, 11–12 Archestratos of Gela, Sicily, 1·12 dissolving in water, 1·296 aluminum foil, in grills, 2·15 on bread crumbs as thickener, 4·12 architecture distillation of, 2·384, 390 l’Amador, 1·70 history of, 1·10 artistic and functional purposes of, drying with, 2·430 Amador, Juan, 1·70 on reductions, 4·5, 11 1·76–77 extracting  avor with amebiasis, 1·119, 129 seasonings described in, 1·11–12 avant-garde, 1·17, 18 best bets for, 2·326 American Association of Wine Apicius, Marcus Gavius, 1·10 Arcigola, 1·23 example recipes for, 2·327 Economists, 4·335 Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Arenós, Pau, 1·37 fat washing using, 2·320, 321 American BBQ plated-dish recipe, (AOC) system, for French wine argon gas, wine preservation with, as foam inhibitor, 4·257 5·66–79 production, 4·331, 332 4·347 gelatin gels with, 4·IV  e American Cheese Slice, 4·224 Appert, Nicholas, 2·75, 84 Arguinzoniz, Victor, smoked dairy hydrogen bonds in water vs., 1·314 American Dietetic Association, 1·215 apple chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328 products and, 4·100 laws on production of, 1·94 American Heart Association, 1·224 apple cider/apple juice. See also hard Aristophanes, 1·12 for marinating, 3·195, 198 An American Place, 1·28, 29 apple cider Arnold, David moisture absorbed by, 2·428 American Spice Trade Association, Apple Cider Consommé, 2·377 on agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372 phase diagram of, 1·303 3·270 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206 as polar solvent, 1·330 American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 57 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil seasoning with, 2·317 Americano espresso, 4·393 4·169 recipe, 2·367 separating water from, 2·384, 390 amino acids Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277 on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207 solubility in water of, 1·332 in freshly slaughtered meat, 3·34 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion freeze  ltration and, 2·369 as solvent for tastant extraction, in shell sh, 3·27 and Water Chestnuts, 3·101 French fries by, 3·322 2·320 amylopectin, in starches, 4·20 Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20 Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181 vacuum packing and, 2·213, 214 amylose, in starches, 4·20

LVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 58 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM BACTERIA B

Arnold, David (continued) Asador Etxebarri, 4·100 autoclaves (continued) Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, asafetida, seasoning with, 1·11 prions and, 1·156 3·324 ascariasis, 1·123 for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 239 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, Ascaris lumbricoides, 1·123 sterilization using, 2·250 B 4·97 ascorbic acid. See vitamin C venting before sealing, 2·291 Bacillus cereus pressure-cooked stock testing by, ash, hardwood charcoal vs. brique es Autumn Harvest Pork Roast plated- food poisoning from spores of, 1·138 2·87 and, 2·12 dish recipe, 5·17–23 replication of on unvented pressure-cookers for Ashenfelter, Orley, 4·328, 329 avant-garde art movements, 1·17 limits of, 1·145 stocks, 2·292 Asian cooking. See also China; Chinese avocados nisin and, 1·144–145 Arola, Sergi, 1·57 entries; ; Japanese entries Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207 wine marinade with oregano and, Arola Barcelona, 1·57 fusion and, 1·29 seed distribution by, 3·265 1·145 aromas. See also essences, aromatics Asian  sh sauce, 3·195 Aztecs, gastronomy of, 1·13 bacon Activa bonding and, 3·252 Asian palm civet, Kopi Luwak co ee Agar Carbonara, 4·161 of almonds, 3·262 and, 4·360 Bacon Chip, 5·219, 220 co ee and, 4·361 Asian pear chips, parametric recipe for, Bacon Chips with Bu erscotch, concentrating by evaporation and, 3·328 Apple, and  yme, 3·189 2·380 Asian restaurants, MSG and, 1·213 Bacon , 2·308 of deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125 asparagus Bacon Jam, 4·229 dry-aging meat and, 3·41 Asparagus Royale, 4·94 Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34 of fat in meat and seafood, 3·87–88 compressing, parametric recipe for, Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18 fat molecules and, 3·18 3·390 combi oven cooking of eggs and,  ning and removal of, 2·360 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 2·174–175 of lute sk, 3·194 for, 3·289, 292 convection baking of, 2·110 Maillard reaction and, 3·89 Green Asparagus and Morels with cooked, fats in, 1·233 plant food cooking and, 3·278 Asparagus Jus, 2·341 Eggs Benedict, 4·86 ripening of cured meat or seafood impregnating, parametric recipe for, fat, fa y acids in, 1·234 and, 3·167, 173 3·390 infusion of, parametric recipe for, rotary evaporators and, 2·384, 390 odor of urine and, 4·350 2·310 of saturated vs. unsaturated oils, puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 2·126 smoking, parametric recipe for, 4·275 of tru es, science of, 4·350 3·362 Siphoned Sou é á la Lorraine, 4·297 of vegetables, blanching sous vide Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147, Spaghe i Carbonara, 3·384 and, 3·293 149 USDA on nitrates and nitrites in, of wine, 4·348–349 Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147, 3·160 aroma kit, technology of, 4·348 149 bacon consommé, parametric recipe for, Aroma:  e Magic of Essential Oils in aspics, gelatin for, 4·67 2·374–375 Foods and Fragrance (Pa erson), 2·322 aspirator vacuum system. See also rotary bacteria, 1·130–151. See also speci c Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37 evaporators bacteria aromatics for concentrating  avor, 2·380, aerobic, 1·130, 135–136 converting grams to volumes for, 382–383 vacuum packing and, 2·208 5·XXXVIII  ltering with, 2·356 agar as growing medium for, 4·128 Maillard reaction and, 2·268 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteria seasonal mélanges with, 3·295 astaxanthin, in and trout, 3·93 categories of, 1·130 for stocks, 2·298 L’Astrance, 1·64 characteristics of, 1·130, 132–133 sublimation in frozen foods of, 2·261 Astronaut Ramen plated-dish recipe, chilling food and, 2·254, 257 Aronia de Takazawa, 1·70 5·247–251 cooking cured meat or seafood and, arrowroot, thickening with, parametric astrovirus infections, 1·155 3·165 recipe for, 4·28 Athenaeus, 1·12 death of, 1·148–151 art, revolution in, 1·16–18 Atkins diet, 1·242 and sterilization for, L’Art de la Cuisine Française aux XIXe atmospheric pressure 1·149 Siècle (Carême, 1833–1834), 1·9, 19 boiling point and, 1·318 thermal death curves of, 1·150–151  e Art of Cooking (Apicius). See Apicius gauge pressure of pressure canners as foodborne pathogens, 1·108, 113, artichokes and, 2·86–87 135–141 Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313 solubility of gases in water and, 1·333 Gram-positive or Gram-negative, Artichoke Con t, 5·171, 172 Au Cacao (Lord Chocolate), Mayan 1·106 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe city-state of Tikal, 1·13 growth of, 1·142–147 for, 3·292 Auber Instruments, PID controllers of, chemicals as preservatives and, puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 2·240 1·144–145 Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244 Australia on dry-aging meat, 3·41 arti cial  avors, popular perception of, Eating Quality Assured system in, limits of, 1·145 1·250, 252 3·39 measuring, terminology of, 1·142 arti cial meat, 3·220. See also sausages screw tops for wine bo les in, modeling, mathematics of, 1·147 arti cial sweeteners, organic label for, 4·344–345 infectious, invasive, 1·134–135 1·247 wine innovation in, 4·331, 332 marinating with, 3·198 Arup, 4·246 authentic recipes, Modernist focus on o - avors and taints due to, 1·135 Arzak (restaurant), 2·450 novelty vs., 1·58–60 quorum sensing, 1·134 Arzak, Juan Mari Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302 spoilage and, 1·133–134 Egg Blossom recipe, 4·78, 80 autoclaves spores of, 1·136, 138–141 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality browning starch for roux with, 4·22 stains for identi cation of, 1·106 of, 1·28 for extracting and infusing  avors, strains of Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 2·473 2·251 naming of, 1·132 Arzak egg blossom, parametric recipe for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 plasmids and, 1·133 for cooking, 4·78 for plant food cooking, 3·298 subspecies classi cation of, 1·132

INDEX LIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 59 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM B BACTOFERM CULTURES

Bactoferm cultures, for fermented beans. See also speci c types of beans beef (continued) sausage, 3·246 American-style, 2·143, 148, 3·211,  ours milled from, 3·376 tapeworms and, 1·124 bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130 361 pressure-cooking, 3·298 tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248 Bàgna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230 regional specialties in, 3·218–219 water for cooking, 3·276, 278 Wagyu. See Wagyu beef baked Alaska, surprise element in, 1·37 sauces for. See barbecue sauces bear meat, Trichinella and, 1·120, 122, whole roast, FDA Food Code on, Baked Beans, 5·67, 77 sous vide, 3·216–217 179 1·182–183 baked goods. See also breads; cakes barbecue sauces beaver fever, 1·129 beef cheeks carbon dioxide as foaming gas in, Centrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71 Beck, Heinz, Nouvelle cuisine and, American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 4·254 East Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69 1·28–29 57 as starch-based set foams, 4·245 House BBQ Sauce, 4·49, 5·67 beech mushrooms Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213 water as secondary foaming gas in, Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, breeds and, 5·55, 57 4·254 Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71 5·55, 58 beef entrecôte, 1·25 Baked Potato Broth, 2·309 Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe beef fat, Frankfurters, 3·242 Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193 North Carolina (Eastern Region) for, 3·289 beef  atiron steak, seam cu ing of, 3·47 baker’s percentage, for scaling recipes, BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70 French , 4·93 beef juice 1·95–97 North Carolina (Lexington-Style) beef. See also ca le; oxtail; steaks parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 baking, 2·100–113 BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71 Australian Eating Quality Assured Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349 altitude and, 2·113 South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70 grading system for, 3·39 beef jus basting and, physics of, 2·103 barbecue stall, chemistry of, 3·212 Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66 Aged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6 ceramic cookware for, 1·277 Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, Beef Brisket, 5·67, 79 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, in combi ovens, 2·168 4·283 Beef Shank Rille e, 5·49, 52 4·54 consistent Barbot, Pascal Beef Short , 5·67, 79 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 strategies for, 2·112 Eggless Citrus Curd recipe, 4·234 Braised , 5·43, 44 Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349 temperature control and, 2·111 Foie Gras and Bu on Mushroom Brown Beef Stock, 2·301 beef knuckles, Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307 convection. See convection baking; Tart recipe, 3·148 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, Beef plated-dish recipe, 5·5–9 convection ovens Modernist cuisine and, 1·64 3·210 Beef Royal, Blumenthal’s re-creation of, of crust, 2·108 barding, 3·84 Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180 1·51 deep-frying compared to, 2·116–117 Barham, Peter cooking Beef Shank Rille e, 5·49, 52 derivation of term, 2·101 Blake, Blumenthal and, 1·51 boiling steak and, 3·72–75 Beef Short Ribs, 5·67, 79 drying stages in, 2·106–108 Blumenthal and, 1·47, 50 in combi oven, 2·180 beef stock, parametric recipe for, heat  ow simulation in roasting vs., books by, 1·44 cooking times for, 1·121 2·296–298 2·33 Erice Conferences and, 1·45 FDA Food Code on cooking of beef tallow, chemistry of, 2·126 humidity and, 2·102 liquid nitrogen ice cream and, steaks and, 1·174 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 4·54 ovens for. See combi ovens; 1·61–62 FDA on cooking pork vs. beef and, beef tongue convection ovens; ovens; Rational on molecular gastronomy, 1·48 1·170–171 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 combi ovens; water-vapor ovens; barley ideal temperature for, 3·89 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe wood- red ovens pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 sous vide, parametric recipes for, for, 3·146 preheating for, 2·102–103 Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129 3·96, 109 beer professionalization of, 1·7 Barnes, H. M., 3·92 Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44 Cheddar Soup, 4·225 radiant heat and, 2·110–111 Bartolo a, Paul, 1·69 Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola foaming head on, 4·250–251, real temperature in, 2·103, 106 baseball glove cut, from pork shoulder, Style,” 3·185 254–255, 256 temperature measurement during, 3·48, 49 curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172 freeze concentration of, 2·396 2·108 Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233 Fast Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145 turkey, cutaway illustration of, basting, physics of, 2·103 FDA Food Code and ice, freeze concentration of, 2·396 2·104–105 Batali, Armandion, braised ox heart on cooking of steaks, 1·174 nucleation sites etched on glass for, baking powder, production process for, sandwiches by, 3·142 on steaks vs. roasts, 1·187 4·251 1·255 Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard- on whole roast, 1·182–183 seasoning with, 2·317 baking soda, production process for, Style recipe, 3·113 Frankfurters, 3·242 , science of, 2·109 1·255, 256 batch size, consistent baking and, 2·111, Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, Beet Flexicurd, 4·219 Bakke, Kent, 4·398 112 2·454 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233 ball mills, for dry-grinding, 2·401 bathrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Beet Meringue, 4·295 ballistic gelatin, 4·68 ba er-frying 2·451 beets bamboo shoots example recipes for, 3·334–337 Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65 aroma of, 5·182 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe parametric recipe for, 3·332–333 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, Beet Flexicurd, 4·219 for, 3·289 b a e r s 3·210 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, best bets for, 3·333 innards of. See innards Beet Meringue, 4·295 5·167, 169 for deep-frying, 2·122, 127 Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199 Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235 bananas for frying, breading vs., 3·316 mad cow disease and, 1·156, 157, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Banana Yogurt, 5·98 parametric recipe for, 3·333 158, 159, 160 for, 3·289 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Siphoned Ba er, 5·144 Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, for, 3·288, 290 bay leaf extract, parametric recipe for, muscles in, 3·15, 5·7 3·366 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 2·326 needled, E. coli outbreak in, 1·176 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and 3·372 Bazaar, 1·67 Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52 Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159 Hot Banana Gel, 4·166 BBQ Caramels, 4·62 primal cuts of, 3·44 preserving, parametric recipe for, ripening of, 3·283 bean sprouts Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249 3·348 Bancro , Wilder Dwight, 4·203 preserving, parametric recipe for, Rare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 Bancro ’s rule, science of, 4·203 3·348 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183 Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 5·59 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso o, Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97 Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235 bang-bang controllers, 2·230–231 3·397 roast, Maillard reaction and, 3·89 beignets Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, time and temperature Beignet of Sauce Ravigote, 5·49, 51 bao technique, for stir-frying with woks, 5·167, 169 curve for, 1·187 Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28 2·54–55 Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349 Pork Tro er Beignet, 5·35, 38 Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174

LX INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 60 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM BOILING POINT B

beignets (continued) black pepper infusion, parametric blenders Blumenthal, Heston (continued) Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·53, 151 recipe for, 2·310 commercial Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46, 47 Beijing National Aquatics Center, Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304 dispersing thickeners with, 4·24 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183 Water Cube at, 4·246 black tea infusion, parametric recipe for, for pureeing, 2·400 food science and, 1·49–50 Belgian endive, cooking sous vide, 2·310 emulsifying with, 4·206, 208 freeze  ltration and, 2·369 parametric recipe for, 3·289 Black Tru e Concentrate, 2·427, 5·216 foam forming with, 4·252, 258 on gazpacho  avor, 5·278 bell peppers blackberries handheld. See handheld blenders Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 4·176, 182 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe heat generated in, 1·274, 2·398, 4·206 Hot Blood Pudding Custard recipe, 5·55, 58 for, 3·290 household, for pastes, powders, or 4·221 preserving, parametric recipe for, Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340 purees, 2·400 Lemon Strips recipe, 4·61 3·348 blackbodies hydration of ion-coagulated gels liquid nitrogen and, 1·63, 65 Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57 adding cream to co ee and, 1·289 with, 4·124 “mackerel invertebrate” dish by, bentonite  ning, 2·352, 358 characteristics of, 1·285 hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38, 3·252 Berasategui, Martín radiation by, 1·285 124 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin on cooking small  sh with crispy charcoal grills and, 2·10–11 immersion. See handheld blenders recipe, 4·175 skin, 3·130 wavelengths and, 1·287 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 “Marmite broth” and, 2·304–305 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused black-eyed peas, Cucumber Black-Eyed for raw food, 3·269 Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe, Milk recipe, 3·103 Pea Salad, 5·94 for shearing gels into  uids, 4·176 3·312 Modernist cuisine and, 1·57 Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, wet-grinding with, 2·412–413 Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 2·394 bergamot 3·183 for wine, hyperdecanting, 4·343 norovirus outbreak and, 1·155 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused blade tenderizing, 3·51. See also Jaccard blogs, Modernist, 1·59–60, 66, 67 Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183 Milk, 3·103 tenderizers blonding, of espresso shot, 4·388 Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 4·180 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Blake, Tony blood as perfectionist and Modernist Sabayon, 4·274 on aroma compounds from Maillard cooking with, 3·144 enthusiast, 1·50–51 Berkel, Wilhelm van, 3·44 reaction, 3·89 as sausage binder, 3·223 Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 3·323 Le Bernardin, 1·73 Blumenthal and, 1·51 viscosity of, 4·6 Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297 Best Bets. See list of Parametric Recipe Erice Conferences and, 1·45 blood oranges rotary evaporation and, 2·388 Tables, LV Blanc, Georges, 1·34 Blood Orange Foam, 4·272 Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe, beta-carotene, health bene ts of, 1·235 Blanc, Raymond Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148 4·155 beurre blanc Erice Conferences and, 1·45 Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, science applied to food by, 1·5, 52 emulsi ers for, 4·204, 214 Nouvelle cuisine in the U.K. and, 2·443 stock preparation by, 2·283 heat-stable, 4·218 1·28 blood pressure, salt and, 1·234, 236–237 Tomato Con t recipe, 5·62 beurre noir blanching blood sausage (pudding) Triple-Cooked Chips of, 3·322 Black Bu er Emulsion, 5·157, 158 boiling and, 2·63 history of, 3·220 vacuum-drying by, 2·436 how to make, 4·213 of bones for stock, 2·292 parametric recipe for, 3·238–239, Blumenthal, Michael, 2·123 beurre noise e. See also brown bu er browning reaction in plants and, 5·239 BMI (body mass index), 1·240, 244 consommé; brown bu er extract 3·283 bloodline, in  sh, 3·21, 22 Bo Innovation, 1·70 Brown Bu er Fumet, 5·157, 158 before cooking, 2·269 Bloom, measure of gel rigidity, 4·68, V boar, wild Brown Bu er-Poached Green Garlic, before deep-frying, 2·125 Bloom, Oscar, 4·68 E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 5·229, 230 drying with warm air and, 2·433 Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172 and, 1·172 how to make, 4·213 extended and simpli ed 6D blow torching and blowtorches Trichinella and, 1·120, 122 Passion Fruit Brown Bu er Fluid Salmonella guidelines a er sous vide cooking, 2·274–275 Bocuse, Paul, 1·24, 26 Gel, 5·181, 182 for, 1·190 broiling vs., 2·21 sous vide cooking and, 1·42 Bezzera, Luigi, 4·372 and, 1·191 for  ash-cooking sushi, 3·61 body mass index (BMI), 1·240, 244 bigeye tuna, as alternative to blue n, of fruits, 2·269 how not to use, 2·21 Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163 3·55 of garlic, 5·26 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 Boiardi, E ore, innovations of, 1·21, 31 Bilet, Maxime, 1·85 hot-packing for canning and, 2·77 blowing on hot food boiling, 2·62–69. See also boiling point; Bimbo Bakeries USA, 1·76 juice extraction and, 2·239 phase change and, 1·290 boiling zone; boiling-water canning; Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber sous vide physics of, 1·288 Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, best bets for, 3·293 Blue Sky Creamery, 1·62–63 characteristics of, 1·315, 317–319 5·197, 203 how to, 3·293 blueberries, heat-treating, parametric cutaway illustration of, 2·64–65 Biot, Jean-Baptiste, 2·117 thermophilic pathogens and, 2·206 recipe for, 3·359 “ xing” color with, chemistry of, Biot number, 2·117 for sous vide cooking, 2·267 blue n tuna 2·63, 66 Birdseye, Clarence, 1·306–307 with steam, 2·70 about, 5·176  ash, 1·317 food science and, 1·24 of vegetables, 2·214, 269 alternatives to, 3·55 Giardia oocysts and, 1·129 bis-2-methyl-3-furyl-disul de, 3·89 water baths and, multiple, 2·247 toro of, from belly, 3·84 heat transfer with, 2·63 biscuits, Bu ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77 water baths, multiple, and, 2·249 Blumenthal, Heston of liquid nitrogen, science of, 2·457 Bismarck, O o von, 3·220 blancmange, Steamed Blancmange, Adrià and, 1·39 under pressure, 2·295 bisphenol A (BPA), plastic storage 4·296 Aerated Chocolate recipe, 4·313 and, 2·291 containers and, 2·207 Blanque e de Veau plated-dish recipe, British bangers and, 3·236–237 rolling, blanching using steam vs., bit-and-plate grinders, for meat, 3·231, 5·31–33 Citrus Spice recipe, 2·404 2·267 233 blast chillers cold gels and, 4·140 stages of physics of, 1·316 bi ers, 2·320 crisping skin with, 3·123 Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe, of steak, 3·72–75 bi er  avors, 5·226 for Modernist kitchen, 2·285 3·334–335 vs., 1·319, 2·70, 72–73 co ee brewing and, 4·364 pacotizing and, 2·407 critics on, 1·62 thick or thin sauces and, 2·68–69 black bu er pros and cons of, 2·255 Cryopoached Dill Meringue recipe, vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215 Black Bu er Emulsion, 5·157, 158 for quick chilling, 1·206, 2·256 5·165 of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·298 how to make, 4·213 blast freezers, 1·307, 310, 2·259 Cryopoached Sour recipe, water temperature and, 1·318 Black Cod “Frédy Girardet” plated-dish bleach and water solution 4·291 boiling point recipe, 5·170–173 drying with warm air and, 2·433 on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, elevation of, 1·318 Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195 for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204 3·366 in phase diagrams, 1·302–303 Black Olive Puree, 4·230 edible  lms used by, 4·60 vacuum pressure for water or ethanol Edible Wrappers recipe, 4·62 vs., 2·391

INDEX LXI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 61 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM B BOILING POINT

boiling point (continued) bound water, dehydration and, 1·321 breads (continued) broccoli (continued) of water boundary layer historical development of, 1·7 Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, relative humidity and, 2·163 convection cooking and, 1·283, Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135, 2·181 vacuum pressure vs., 2·391 2·108, 110 139 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 boiling zone drying and, 2·431 New American cuisine and, 1·28–29 steamed in combi oven, 2·181 baking and, 2·107–108 evaporation and, 1·288 parathas as, 5·92 La Broche, 1·57 convection baking and, 2·110 bovine spongiform encephalopathy Rye Bread, 5·55, 59 Brochet, Frédéric, 4·334–335, 340 in steak frying, 3·75 (BSE), 1·156, 157–159, 160 stale Brock, Sean boiling-water canning, 2·76–83 bowl choppers, 3·233. See also Bu alo chemistry of rescuing, 1·320 food inspectors and, 1·83 cutaway illustration of, 2·82–83 choppers starch granules and, 3·280 Modernist cuisine and, 1·67 food acidity issues in, 2·76 BPA (bisphenol A), plastic storage as starch-based set foam, 4·245 Shrimp and Grits recipe, 3·377 packing food in canning jars for, 2·78 containers and, 2·207 water as secondary foaming gas in, Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier raw packing or hot-packing, 2·77 Bradbury, Ray, 2·137 4·254 Bu er, 4·220 sterilization and, 2·76 Bradley smokers, 2·147 white, industrial production of, sterilizing acidic canned foods for, Brahman ca le, calpastatin in Wagyu 4·252, 254 for  ash-cooking sushi, 3·61 2·81 beef vs., 3·76  e Breakfast Egg plated-dish recipe, for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 USDA guidelines for, 2·79–80 brain, prion diseases and, 1·156–157 5·211–213 portable, how not to use blowtorch bok choy, Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313 Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18 breakfast-style sausage, parametric as, 2·21 Boltzmann, Ludwig, 1·265 Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83 recipe for, 3·236–237 radiant heat from, 1·277, 284, 285 Bond’s law, 2·401 Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111 breast cancer, red meat and, 1·220 rules of thumb for, 2·18–20 Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, Bre anomyces (bre ), wine aroma and, sweet zone of, calculating, 2·22–23 bones 5·60, 65 4·350 types and features of, 2·20–22 blanching, for stock, 2·292 Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39 brevis mortis, slaughter and, 3·32 broiling, 2·18–27 cooking of, 3·143–144 Braised Short Ribs, 5·43, 44 brewing a er cooking sous vide, 2·272–273 sous vide cooking and, 2·207 Braised Short Ribs plated-dish recipe, of co ee, 4·364, 366–370 equipment for, 2·20–22. See also for stocks, 2·288 5·42–47 control chart for, how to use, broilers bonito, Quinoa and Idiazábal with Braised Turnips with Sa ron, 5·121, 123 4·366–367 Girardet method for poaching and, Bonito Stock Veil, 4·168 Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62 of espresso, choosing temperature 2·24–25 Bonnefons, Nicolas de, 1·9, 19 for, 4·385 heat intensity and, 2·22–23 books, water-soaked, freeze-drying for aging and, chemistry of, 2·98 by hunter-gatherers, 1·6 pizzas, 2·26–27 conservation of, 2·444 derivation of term, 2·93 professionalization of, 1·7 rules of thumb for, 2·18–20 Bordeaux, France holding at speci c temperature in, Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 1·9 bromelain, 2·335, 3·195, 5·6 microoxygenation by winemakers in, 2·247 brines. See also brining bromophenols, 3·88 4·331 of meat, how to, 2·99 basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168 broths Napoleon III on classi cation of pot-roasting or stewing vs., 2·93 best bets for, 3·168 Bacon Dashi, 2·308 wines from, 4·331–332 stewing as, 2·96–98 parametric recipe for, 3·168–172 Baked Potato Broth, 2·309 wine storage in, 4·346 Bras, Michel reusing, food safety and, 3·164 Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235 Bordeaux Equation, science of, 4·328 Adrià and, 1·34 brining, 3·152–158 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308 Boring, Edwin, 4·341 Black Olive Oil recipe, 5·195 accelerating concentrating  avor of, 2·379, 380 Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235 chocolate cake with liquid center by, how to, 3·174–175 Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84 Bose-Einstein condensate, 1·301 1·15 strategies for, 3·166–167 Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Bosse, Chris, 4·246 Le Gargouillou recipe, 1·40, 3·294–295 acidic marinades vs., 3·193 Leaf, 5·109, 110 bo arga. See also caviar;  sh garlic mayonnaise of, 4·226 best bets for, 3·168, 172 example recipes for, 2·303–309, Sea Urchin Bo arga, 3·186, 5·225, Licorice Powder recipe, 2·405 color of meat and, 5·102 5·197 226 liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 65 equilibrium method for, 3·158 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, bo le size, wine storage and, 4·346 Molasses Bu er recipe, 2·331 how to, 3·170–171 2·451 bo led water, as pure water, 1·335 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality functional ingredients for, 3·155 Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56 bo omless porta lters, 4·385. See also of, 1·27, 39–40 goal for, 3·154 Ham Broth, 2·306 crotchless porta lters So -Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion high-concentration method for, Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197 Bo ura, Massimo, 1·70 recipe, 4·227 3·171 Laksa Broth, 2·307 sous vide cooking and, 1·42 Maillard reaction and, 3·91 Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14 common misconceptions about, bratwurst, parametric recipe for, with other salts, chemistry of, 3·157 Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307 1·118 3·238–239 process of, 3·152, 156, 158 parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 food poisoning from spores and, Bratzler, L. J., 3·77 time and salt concentration for, Tom Yum Broth, 2·309 1·138–139 bread crumbs 3·154 vacuum  ltering of, 2·354 nitrates or nitrites as protection in sausage, 3·226 of vegetables with salt, 3·346 Brown, Robert, 1·265 from, 3·165 as thickening agent, 4·12 brioche Brown Beef Stock, 2·301 sous vide cooking and, 2·206 bread pudding, Boudin Noir Bread Brioche Toast, 5·219, 221 brown bu er boudin blanc Pudding, 5·125, 127 Caesar Salad, 3·373 Brown Bu er Fumet, 5·157, 158 Boudin Blanc, 3·243 breading Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86 Brown Bu er-Poached Green Garlic, parametric recipe for, 3·238–239 example recipes for, 3·340–343 brique es, hardwood charcoal vs., 2·12 5·229, 230 Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, 127 for frying British Airways, sous vide cooking and, how to make, 4·213 Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127 ba ers vs., 3·316 1·41 Passion Fruit Brown Bu er Fluid Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308 of gizzards, 3·142 British bangers, parametric recipe for, Gel, 5·181, 182 Bouley, David parametric recipe for, 3·338–339 3·236–237 brown bu er consommé, parametric on Modernist cuisine in Spain, 1·57 pork-rind, 3·122–123 British thermal units (BTUs) recipe for, 2·374–375 New International cuisine and, 1·30 sieving particles for, 2·353 calculating grill power using, 2·10 brown bu er extract, parametric recipe Oxtail Consommé and, 2·376 skin as, 3·118 de nition of, 1·272 for, 2·326 Boulud, Daniel breads. See also bread crumbs; brioche for wok burners, 2·52 brown chicken jus, parametric recipe Boeuf in Gelée and, 4·163 Corn Bread, 5·67, 76 bri leness, gel selection and, 4·73 for, 2·344–345 hamburger and, 5·11 at elBulli, Adrià on, 1·34–35 broccoli Brown Veal Stock, 2·300 on McGee’s On Food and Cooking, 1·44 gel-like properties of, 3·376 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, Brownian motion, 1·265 New International cuisine and, 1·30 Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 13 2·426

LXII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 62 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP C

browning burr grinders (continued) can openers, invention of, 2·75 in combi oven, convection mode for, quality of, co ee grind and, 4·378 Canadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 4·86 2·168 technology of, 4·376 Canard Apicius, 5·121 microwave ovens and, 2·189 butchering, 3·44–50 C cancer. See also carcinogens modern methods of braising and, 2·98 dissecting pork shoulder a er, cabbage. See also green cabbage; Napa of breast, red meat and, 1·220 browning reaction, 3·89. See also 3·48–49 cabbage; red cabbage; sauerkraut; colorectal, dietary  ber and, Maillard reaction seam cu ing and, 3·45–47 savoy cabbage; white cabbage 1·214–217 in plant foods, 3·283 slicing and, 3·47, 50 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, International Agency for Research in plant juices, 2·338 bu er. See also bu ers 3·366 on Cancer and, 1·220 Brugués, Salvador, 1·58 carotenoid pigments and, 3·92 preserving, parametric recipe for, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94 Bruni, Frank, 1·63 c l a r i  e d 3·348 Candied Pu ed Oats, 5·125, 128 Brussels sprouts, Deep-Fried Brussels browned solids from, 4·212 Caesar Salad, 3·373 candlenuts, Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175, Sprouts, 3·321 how to make, 4·213 café au lait, 4·393 177 BSE. See bovine spongiform emulsions and, 4·218–220 ca è breve, 4·393 candling, for anisakid detection, 1·123 encephalopathy as foaming agent, 4·251 ca è crema, 4·379 candying fruits, with sugar, 3·346 BTUs (British thermal units) for froths, parametric recipe for, ca è la e cannibalism, kuru and, 1·159 calculating grill power using, 2·10 4·264 as art form, 4·391–393 canning, 2·74–91 de nition of, 1·272 health risks of margarine vs., 1·231 composition of, 4·393 anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138 for wok burners, 2·52 Hot Bu er Foam, 4·283 milk foam in, 4·244 boiling-water method of. See boiling- bubblers, aquarium organic food movement perception pa erns in, how to make, 4·394–395 water canning foam forming with, 4·258, 260 of, 1·253 ca è mocha, 4·393 frigi-canning and, 2·84–85 for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100 c a  e i n e of ham, 1·21 bubbles as so foam, 4·247 in deca einated co ee, 4·363 heating requirements and duration best bets for, 4·264 bu er extract, parametric recipe for, digestion of, 4·363 for, 2·79 boiling water and, 1·315, 317–318 2·326 cakes history of, 2·75 example recipes for, 4·267–269 bu erfat, separating from cream, 2·366, chocolate, with liquid center, how to pack food in jars for, 2·78 as gas released from heating water, 368 evolution of, 1·15–16 packaging with care for, 2·77 4·252 bu er y  llet, of  sh, 3·52 Green Tea Cake, 4·292 of plant foods, 3·344 geometry of, 4·246 bu ermilk Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, with pressure. See pressure-canning parametric recipe for, 4·264 Bu ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77 4·294 sous vide and, 2·204–205 in steamed milk for espresso, 4·392 for marinating, 3·198 Le Calandre, 1·70 canning industry, bacteria reduction steaming and, 2·71 parametric recipe for, 4·56 calcium standards of, 1·148 for thickening, 4·19 Spray-Dried Bu ermilk, 2·443 in selected foods, 4·VII canola oil, chemistry of, 2·126 in whipped cream, 4·256 bu ernut squash sources of, for ion-coagulation, 4·129 cantaloupes Büchi Labortechnik, 2·386–387, 391 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter calcium chloride Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392 Büchner, Ernst, 2·354 Squash, 5·60, 65 in blanching water, 2·125 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Büchner funnel, 2·354, 356 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for brining or curing, 3·157, 158 for, 3·288 Buckwheat Dough, 5·233, 234 for, 3·289 meat marinade containing, 3·76, 198 Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177 buckwheat pasta, parametric recipe for, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, product guide for, 4·II–III Cantu, Homaro 3·381 3·372 as salt, 4·126 on carbonated grapes, 2·469 Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237 Pickled Bu ernut Squash, 5·60, 64 calcium gluconate edible  lms of, 4·60 Buddha’s hand citron Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, edible  lms used by, 4·60 Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389 b u e r s 4·140 Modernist cuisine and, 1·67 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe beurre blanc and. See beurre blanc product guide for, 4·II–III patents applied for, 1·71, 72 for, 3·291 black. See black bu er calcium ions on Postmodern cuisine, 1·57 distillation of, 2·388 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier as hydrocolloid coagulant, 4·70, 126 on shucking oysters with liquid Bu alo choppers, for emulsifying Bu er, 4·220 spheri cation and, 4·184 nitrogen, 2·458 sausage, 3·225, 230, 233 brown. See brown bu er calcium lactate Tro er and, 1·69 bu ering, 2·315 Centrifuged Carotene Bu er, 2·365, product guide for, 4·II–III Capel, José Carlos, 1·59 Glaze, 5·285, 287 5·185 for spheri cation, parametric recipe Caper Droplets, 5·157, 159 bulk phase, in emulsions. See Co ee Bu er, 5·211, 212 for, 4·187 Caplan, Frieda, 1·15 continuous phase Condrieu Bu er, 5·171, 172 California broth, parametric recipe for, bulking agents, spray-dried powders Marcona Almond Bu er Paste, State Fair wine competition in, 2·304–305 and, 2·442 5·281, 282 4·338–339 cappuccino Buon Vino pressure  lters Molasses Bu er, 2·331 wine innovation in, 4·331, 332 Cappuccino Foam, 4·266 characteristics of, 2·358 Passion Fruit Brown Bu er Fluid California Department of Health composition of, 4·393 clarifying juice with, how to, 2·355 Gel, 5·181, 182 Services, E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of how to make pa erns in, 4·394–395 Burke, Sam Fahey, sour rhubarb sorbet Sea Urchin Bu er, 5·225, 227 2006 and, 1·172 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, and, 5·277 Shell sh Bu er, 2·329 calories, 1·272 4·275 Burki , Denis P., 1·214–215, 218 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219 calpains perfect pour for, 4·392 Burki ’s lymphoma, 1·214 Whipped Bu er, 4·286 aging meats and, 3·39 steaming milk for, 4·391 Burmese Chickpea Laksa, 4·121 bu on mushrooms meat tenderness and, 3·76 capsaicin burners Boudin Blanc, 3·243 reaction rates of, temperature and, biology of, 3·271 choosing, 2·41–43 Foie Gras and Bu on Mushroom 3·78 hotness perception and, 3·270 conduction and, 1·277 Tart, 3·148 yogurt or bu ermilk marinades and, purging bivalves and, 5·231 gas, 1·274 3·198 capsids, of viruses, 1·152 for , 2·40–41 calpastatin, meat tenderness and, 3·76 capsule systems, for espresso, induction, 1·274 Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption technology of, 4·400 for panfrying, 2·41–43 from Lake Nyos in, 2·466 for stir-frying, 2·48, 52, 56–57 campylobacter, 1·117 covered sautéing and, 2·58 wok, 2·52, 56–57, 287 Campylobacter jejuni, 1·134, 145 pressure-cooking and, 3·298 burr grinders Can Fabes, 1·63, 258. See also smoking and, 2·135 dry-grinding with, 2·401–402 Santamaria, Santi Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301

INDEX LXIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 63 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM C CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAM

Caramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50 Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence cast iron cookware, 1·278, 280 cellulose gums Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28 in Innovation and Creativity in cats dispersion and hydration of, 4·127 Carasso, Daniel, 1·20–21 Design, at M.I.T., 2·412 spongiform encephalopathy of, 1·159 gelling agents from, 4·126 carbohydrates Carlson, Michael, 1·69 Toxoplasma gondii and, 1·126–127 parametric recipe for, 4·170–171 diets low in, 1·242 Carmona, John Paul, Beef Cheek catalysis, 2·20 properties and applications of, 4·170 in fermented sausage, 3·246 Pastrami recipe, 3·213 catalysts, 2·21, 335 cellulose-based hydrocolloids, as carbon dioxide (CO) carotenoid pigments, 3·30, 92, 93 catalytic gas broilers, 2·20–21 thickeners, 4·19 for carbonating drinks, 1·334, 4·254 carrageenan Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Celsius, Anders, 1·266 chemical formula for, 2·464 dairy gel formation with, 4·102 Human (Wrangham), 1·6, 3·269 Celsius temperature scale, 1·266, 285 co ee roasting and, 4·358 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 cathepsins, 3·39, 76, 78 Centers for Disease Control and containers and, air in head space of, as foam stabilizer, 4·257 ca le. See also beef; oxtail; veal Prevention. See U.S. Centers for 2·464 in heavy cream, 4·102 E. coli O157:H7 and Disease Control and Prevention crema on espresso and, 4·384 iota. See iota carrageenan transmission of, 1·118–119, 172 centipoise (cP), 4·6 critical point for, 1·328 kappa. See kappa carrageenan vaccinations for, 1·145 Centre de Recherche et d’Études pour digestion of, 2·464 lambda. See lambda carrageenan prion diseases in, 1·158 l’Alimentation (CREA), 1·43 as dry ice, 2·458, 464. See also dry ice natural sources for, 1·253 scrapie in, 1·158 centrifugal-style juicers, 2·332, 334 eruption of Lake Nyos, Cameroon product guide for, 4·II–III sheep liver  uke and, 1·123 Centrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71 and, 2·466 production process for, 1·257 tapeworms and, 1·124 Centrifuged Carotene Bu er, 2·365, as foaming gas, 4·254–255 spheri cation using, 4·184 cauli ower 5·185 solubility in water, 1·330, 332, 4·243 uses of, 4·128 Cauli ower Couscous, 3·388 Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367 supercritical, deca einated co ee Carrot and Dill , 5·161, 164 Cauli ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, and, 4·363 carrot chips, parametric recipe for, Cauli ower Foam, 5·281, 283 2·367 supercritical  uid extraction and, 3·328 Cauli ower Panna Co a, 4·142 centrifuges, 2·360–368 2·320 carrot tops, Microwave-Fried Parsley Deep-Fried Cauli ower, 5·281, 283 balancing, how to, 2·363 taste of, 4·256 and Carrot Tops, 5·49, 53 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, for cholesterol tests, 1·226–227 triple point for, 1·328 carrots 3·366 for  ltering, 2·351, 352, 360, 368 tru es and, preserving freshness bene ts of cooking, 3·267 preserving, parametric recipe for, Genevac Rocket Evaporator as, with, 2·470 Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 3·348 2·391–395 for whipping siphons, 4·256 5·94 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 carbon  ltration, for purifying water, Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301 Cava wine, Oysters with Cava Foam, safety of, 2·361 1·335 Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164 4·277 separating bu erfat from cream carbon monoxide (CO), to bloom Centrifuged Carotene Bu er, 2·365, caviar with, 2·366 myoglobin in meat, 3·95 5·185 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, for separating emulsions, 4·210, 212 carbonated drinks, carbon dioxide for, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 3·210 separating liquids with, 2·364 1·334, 4·254 for, 3·289, 292 Melon Caviar, 4·189 types of, 2·362 Carbonated Golden Raisins, 5·157, 159 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174 centrifuging, example recipes for, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, cavitation 2·365–367, 5·5, 60, 185 carbonation 3·372 collapse, in boiling, 1·317 characteristics of, 4·464 Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186 by high-pressure homogenizers, Century Egg, 4·83 equipment for, 2·286 Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32 2·414, 415 parametric recipe for, 4·82 example recipes for, 2·472–473, 5·11 , 3·354 CDC. See U.S. Centers for Disease cephalopods. See also octopus; squid  zziness taste and, science of, 2·465 preserving, parametric recipe for, Control and Prevention biology of, 3·24 of fruit, 1·69, 2·469, 472 3·348 CDS/NPOS notation system for ceramic cookware, conductivity and, of liquids puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 cooking, 1·47, 48 1·277 pacotizing and, 2·407 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309 celebrity chefs, 1·19, 50, 60. See also ceramic plates, in gas grills, 2·11 techniques for, 2·464 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 individual chefs’ names Certi ed Angus Beef, 3·39 temperature and, 2·464 Carsberg, Sco New American cuisine and, 1·29 cestodes tips for, 2·468 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade New International cuisine and, 1·31 contamination by, 1·120 Perlini system for, 4·347 recipe, 4·169 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26 destruction of, 1·123 physics of, 1·334 Pecorino with Tru e Honey on celery, compressing and impregnating, types of, 1·124 taste, science of, 2·465 Cedar recipe, 4·101 parametric recipe for, 3·390 ceviche wine pairing and, 4·352 carvacrol, as antimicrobial compound, celery root acidic marinades for, 3·193, 194 carbonyls, in smoking wood, 2·135, 1·145 Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, Fluke Ceviche, 3·203 3·211 case-control studies, of nutrition, 1·220 5·126 CFUs (colony-forming units), 1·142 carboxyl methylcellulose (CMC) case-hardening, as form of drying, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe CGS (centimeter, gram, second) units, interactions with other thickeners, 2·428 for, 3·289 1·272 4·44–45 casein Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133 Chaat Masala, 5·281, 282 product guide for, 4·IV–V as  ning agent, 2·360 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 chamber sealers, 2·214–221. See also properties and uses of, 4·42–43 in homogenized cream, 2·360, 368 Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 vacuum chambers carcinogens as surfactant, 4·202 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 advantages of, 2·214 food additives as, 1·252 cashews celery root chips, parametric recipe for, boiling inside, damage and, 2·215 grilled meat and  sh and, 1·220 Cashew Halvah, 5·93 3·328 common problems with, 2·220–221 in smoke, liquid smoke for avoiding, Green Mango and Cashew Salad, Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, 5·126 gas- ushing, tru e storage with, 2·149 5·167, 169 celiac disease, gluten intolerance and, 2·471 smoked food and, 2·143 casing, sausage, 3·226, 227 1·239 impulse sealers and, 2·225 Carême, Antonin cassava El Celler de Can Roca, 1·58 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 aspics of, 4·68  our milled from, 3·376 cellulose optional features of, 2·216–217 as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9 toxins in, 3·262 gels not formed from, 4·124 for plant food cooking, 3·286 culinary rules and codes of, 1·5 Vegetable Coals, 3·395 for low-fat sausage tenderness, vacuum packing with, 2·209, 218, French cuisine and, 1·19 Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn) 3·224 219 innovations of, 1·20 plated-dish recipe, 5·81–84 cellulose gum LV, thickening with, Chamberlin, Walter, 1·60 meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250 Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring) plated- parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47 dish recipe, 5·85–87

LXIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 64 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM CHOCOLATE WATER C

Champagne cheese sauce, parametric recipe for, chicken (continued) chili extract, parametric recipe for, Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183 4·223 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 2·326 foaming head on, 4·254 cheese slices, parametric recipe for, 3·210 chili peppers nucleation sites etched on glass for, 4·223  e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336 capsaicin in, 3·271 4·251 cheese soup, parametric recipe for, cooking Chili Pearls, 4·145 storage of, 4·346, 347, 348 4·223 sous vide, parametric recipe for, Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403 “Champagne grapes,” Cantu on, 2·469 cheese spread, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108 choosing, 3·271 Champion-style juicers, 2·332, 334 4·223 times for, 1·180, 181 dry, converting grams to volumes Chang, David cheese trolley, 1·25, 35 Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116 for, 5·XXXVIII Bacon Dashi recipe, 2·308 cheesecloth, for  ltering, 2·351 “danger zone” temperatures and, infusion of, parametric recipe for, Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe, Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225 1·176, 177, 178–179 2·310 3·321 Chef Boy-ar-Dee canned goods, 1·21 deep-frying, high-pressure, Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Kimchi recipe, 3·352 chefs, celebrity, 1·19, 50, 60. See also 2·120–121 Salad, 5·277, 278 Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 3·177 individual chefs’ names fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in, preserving, parametric recipe for, Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca New American cuisine and, 1·29 3·12 3·348 recipe, 4·285 New International cuisine and, 1·31 FDA safe cooking standards for, rating, science of, 3·270 Chantecler, 1·34 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26 1·170 Romesco Sauce, 2·419 chanterelles, Mushroom Puree, 5·215, chefs, professional. See also individual food safety misconceptions about, Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330 216 chefs’ names 1·180–181 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 4·238 chao technique, for stir-frying, 2·54, cooking by amateur chefs vs., Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249 chilling. See also chilling water baths; 56–57 1·87–88 Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205 cook-chill sous vide methods; Chapel, Alain copying dishes and, 1·71 Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113, freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er recipe, early civilization and development 114–115 of a carcass, 3·35 3·100 of, 1·7–8 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, food safety and quality and, 2·252, pot-au-feu of, 5·49 hygiene accessories for, 1·202–203 3·210 254, 256 Chaptal, Jean-Antoine, 4·330 recipes inspired by or adapted from, Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248 in sous vide cooking, 2·242 chaptalization, in viticulture, 4·330, 332 1·100–101 meat color of duck vs., 3·16–17 strategies for, 2·255 charcoal. See also coals; prune coals Chemex co ee brewer, 4·369 Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337 chilling water baths vs. brique es for , 2·12 chemicals Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100 for Modernist kitchen, 2·285 as  ning agent, 2·360 for , 1·144–145 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken physics of not halting cooking with, vs. gas for grilling, 2·10–11 in foods, 1·250 Stock, 2·301 2·254 making, 2·134 juicing citrus fruits and, 2·332 primal cuts of, 3·44 technology of, 2·238 vs. wood for grilling, 2·7 kitchen, common, 4·VI program cooking in combi oven, chimneys, air  ow up, 2·7 charcoal grills prions and, 1·156 2·169 China controlling heat in, 2·14 in smoking, 2·140 roast, combi oven cooking of, aristocratic food in, 1·8 gas grills vs., 2·10–11 cherries 2·178–179 fermented meats in, 3·246 chard stems, cooking sous vide, Cherry Vinaigre e, 5·267, 270 Salmonella and, 1·180–181 tradition and evolving cuisine of, parametric recipe for, 3·289 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 1·15 Chardonnay, genetic origins of, for, 3·288 3·134–135 Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide, 4·327–328 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut , 3·201 parametric recipe for, 3·292 Charpentier, Georges, 1·19 Nougatine, 5·267, 270 chicken fat Chinese banquet stock, parametric Charred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18 Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267, Boudin Blanc, 3·243 recipe for, 2·296–297 Château Cordeillan-Bages, 1·63 268, 269 chemistry of, 2·126 Chinese everyday stock, parametric chawanmushi Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268 Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249 recipe for, 2·296–297 Chawanmushi, 4·96 preserving, parametric recipe for, Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248 Chinese ginger soy  sh broth, description of, 4·96 3·348 chicken feet, Pu ed Chicken Feet, parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 parametric recipe for, 4·92 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard 3·133 Chinese restaurant headache, MSG cheddar cheese Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97 chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, and, 1·213  e American Cheese Slice, 4·224 cherries (co ee plant fruit), 4·358 parametric recipe for, 3·146 chinois, cone-shaped, 2·351 Cheddar Soup, 4·225 Cherry Vinaigre e, 5·267, 270 chicken juice, parametric recipe for, chips. See also fruit chips; vegetable Cheese Pu s, 4·305 chestnuts 2·344–345 chips Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, Chestnut Con t, 5·17, 18 chicken skin dehydrating formula for, 3·367 2·411 Chestnut Cream, 5·17, 21 cooking methods for, 3·120–121 chives, freeze-drying, parametric recipe Mac and Cheese, 3·387 Chestnut Pu s, 5·17, 20–21 Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116 for, 3·372 Cheddar Soup, 4·225 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe crisping by loosening, 3·123 chlorine, in municipal water, 1·335 cheese. See also speci c types of cheese for, 3·291, 292 crispy cooking sous vide of, 3·131 chlorophyll constructed, best bets for, 4·223 Chevalier-Appert, Raymond, 2·75 chicken stock, parametric recipe for, in green vegetables, 2·267 as dairy gel, 4·102–123 Chez Panisse, 1·28 2·296–298 hard water and, 3·278 emulsions and, 4·218, 222–225 Chez Panisse Menu (Waters), Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204 chlorophyllase, 2·267 FDA Food Code on milk 1·28–29 chickpeas chocolate pasteurization for, 1·185 Chicago, as Modernist mecca, 1·69 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, Aerated Chocolate, 4·313 Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106 chicharrones, water as foaming gas for, 4·121 Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281 processed, history of, 4·222 4·254 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe conching of, 2·404 raw milk chicken for, 3·292 foam bars, forming, 4·254 French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171, aging, 3·41 pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 Mayans and, 1·13 173 beer can roasting of, 2·109 Pu ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138 melted, solidi ed to frozen set foam, safe cooking standards for, 1·170 Boudin Blanc, 3·243 Pu ed Chickpeas, 4·307 4·247 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100 breeding for white meat, 2·120 Child, Julia, 1·26, 83 chocolate cake with liquid center, spoiled, risks of, 1·139 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 on sole meunière, 3·40 evolution of, 1·15–16 cheese fondue, parametric recipe for, Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204 Children’s Hospital, Oakland, chocolate milk, as colloidal suspension, 4·223 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, California, 1·230 4·176 Cheese in a Tube, 4·225 4·238 Chile, wine innovation in, 4·332 chocolate water, parametric recipe for, Cheese Pu s, 4·305 2·374–375

INDEX LXV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 65 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM C CHOLESTEROL

cholesterol clams (continued) coagulants (continued) co ee (continued) characteristics of, 1·224 geoduck protein, 4·103 milk and, art of, 4·391–395 dietary fat and, 1·222, 224–227 biology of, 3·27 sequestrants for removing, 4·72 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, health risks with low levels of, 1·226 cooking sous vide, parametric for thickening, 4·7, 71 4·275 heart disease and, 1·227 recipe for, 3·108 coagulants for gelling, 4·70, 71 pod and capsule systems for, weight loss diets and, 1·242 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, ion-based, 4·124–127 technology of, 4·400 chopping, tools for, 3·230–233 4·266 how to use, 4·129 Sea le as capital of, history of, 4·398 chorizo Marinated Geoduck, Young coals storing, practicalities of, 4·362 Chorizo Crisp, 5·193, 194 Ginger, , 5·197, 200 faux. See prune coals tasting like a pro, how to, 4·365 Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, , glowing, pot-roasting and, 2·96 co ee beans Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194 Scallop , 5·197, 202 coalescence, as emulsion failure, 4·210, burr grinders for, 2·401–402, 4·376, parametric recipe for, 3·244–245 razor 212 378 Passion Fruit Marshmallow with cooking sous vide, parametric Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248 from cherry to, 4·358, 360–361 Chorizo Powder, 4·290 recipe for, 3·103 coarse-ground sausages, 3·220, 222 for espresso, 4·374, 376 Choucroute Royale plated-dish recipe, noroviruses and, 1·155 best bets for, 3·236–237 Northern Italian roast for, 4·360 5·35–39 Razor Clam “,” 5·197, 199 cryosha ering for, 3·230 grinding for espresso chronic wasting disease (CWD), 1·159 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, parametric recipe for, 3·236–237 adjustments for, 4·388 chufa milk 3·112 Coca-Cola, 1·20, 22–23, 76 coarse vs.  ne, 4·376, 378 Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso o, cockles, cooking sous vide, parametric common problems with, 4·377 parametric recipe for, 4·56 3·308 recipe for, 3·103 grinders for. See espresso grinders chufa nuts Stu ed Clam, 5·229, 231 cockscombs how to, 4·377 about, 5·244 Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe pregrinding and, 4·380 Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59 clari ed bu er for, 3·146 processing methods for, 4·358 Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244 browned solids from, using, 4·212 preparation of, 3·122 roasting, stages of, 4·362 chymosin, as gel coagulant, 4·70 how to make, 4·213 Pu ed Cockscomb, 3·133 roasting for  avor, 4·358, 360–361 cinnamon cap mushrooms, Preserved clarity. See also opacity cocoa species of, 4·358 Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, 5·219, 220 thickener selection and, 4·15 Cocoa Nib Curd, 4·105 surface area a er grinding of, 2·290 cinnamon extract, parametric recipe Clay Potatoes, 3·398 Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227 Co ee Bu er, 5·211, 212 for, 2·326 cleaning. See also food safety; hygiene cocoa tajarin co ee extract, parametric recipe for, cinnamon infusion, parametric recipe of co ee brewer and grinder, 4·396 Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227 2·326 for, 2·310 of combi ovens, 2·169 Cocoa Tajarin plated-dish recipe, co ee grinders Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273, of espresso machines, how to, 4·397 5·225–227 breaking down food with, 2·400 275 of kitchens, 1·200, 204 parametric recipe for, 3·381 burr type cipolline onions, Sweet-and-Sour Cliche, Michael, sous vide cooking and, coconut dry-grinding with, 2·401–402 Cipolline Onions, 5·17, 19 2·195 Caramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50 quality of, co ee grind and, 4·378 circulating water baths, 2·232, climacteric fruits, ripening, 3·283–284 Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282 technology of, 4·376 234–235, 237 climate, winemaking and, 4·328–329 Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 5·185, colloid mill for, 2·404 citric acid clinical trials. See randomized clinical 187 dispensers, porta lter dosing and, as acidi er, 2·314 trials preserving, parametric recipe for, 4·378 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, cloning, wine and, 4·326–328 3·348 fan cooled, 4·376, 378, 398 4·140 Clorox, for kitchen cleaning, 1·200, 204 coconut oil, chemistry of, 2·126 hopper of, stale co ee in, 4·377 for sausage, 3·227 Clostridium botulinum cod quality of, co ee grind and, 4·378 citron, Buddha’s hand canning and, 2·75 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, temperature of, co ee grind and, Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389 food contamination by, 1·140 3·210 4·376 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe food poisoning and, 1·132–133, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe co ee infusion, parametric recipe for, for, 3·291 138–139 for, 3·102 2·310 distillation of, 2·388 pressure-canning and, 2·85, 88 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused co eegeek.com, 4·398 Citrus Air, 4·265 refrigeration and, 2·257 Milk, 3·103 cohort studies, of nutrition, 1·220 citrus extract, parametric recipe for, replication of -Cured Black Cod, 3·179 COI, 1·67. See also Pa erson, Daniel 2·326 limits of, 1·145 Monk sh with Constructed Skin, cola brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168 citrus fruits. See also speci c  uits nisin and, 1·144–145 3·132 colanders, 2·351 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, sodium nitrites and, 1·144 Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173 Colborne Lane, 1·70 3·366 Clostridium per ingens Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, cold gels, parametric recipe for, heat-treating, parametric recipe for, chicken and, 1·180 4·32 4·140–141 3·359 food poisoning from, 1·138, 139, 141 cod roe, Steamed Cod with Cod Roe cold liquids, thickened, parametric juice of, as acidi er, 2·314, 315 replication of Velouté, 4·32 recipe for, 4·46–47 preserving, parametric recipe for, limits of, 1·145 co ee, 4·354–403. See also co ee beans cold shortening, of a carcass, 3·35 3·348 nisin and, 1·144–145 adding cream to, physics of, 1·289 cold-extraction co ee system, 2·286, citrus oil, washing, how to, 2·321 rate of, 1·142 Aerated Co ee Ice Cream, 4·312 4·370, 371 citrus press, 2·332, 335 clo ed cream, parametric recipe for, brewing. See brewing cold-, physics of not halting Citrus Spice, 2·404 4·56 Cappuccino Foam, 4·266 cooking with, 2·254 city roast stage, of co ee, 4·362 Clove Oil, 5·49, 52 Co ee Bu er, 5·211, 212 cold-smoking, 2·141–143, 3·361 civet, Asian palm, Kopi Luwak co ee Clover co ee machine, 4·398 cold-extraction system for, 2·286, coleslaw and, 4·360 CMC (carboxyl methylcellulose) 4·370, 371 Red Coleslaw, 5·67, 72 civilization, de nition of, 1·7 interactions with other thickeners, consistency in, 4·396–403 White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72 CJD (Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease), 4·44–45 cooking with, technique of, 4·371 collagen 1·157–159, 160 product guide for, 4·IV–V deca einated in cephalopods, 3·24–25 clams properties and uses of, 4·42–43 production process for, 1·256 in cooking, role of, 3·80–81 biology of, 3·26, 27 CO (carbon monoxide), to bloom science of, 4·363 fat and Clam Juice, 5·229, 230 myoglobin in meat, 3·95 espresso as. See espresso incorporation into sausage, 3·224 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe CO. See carbon dioxide Fair Trade, economics of, 4·361 in meat, 3·15 for, 3·103 coagulants grinders for. See co ee grinders in  sh, 3·20, 21 fecal contamination of, 1·117 for gelling. See coagulants for gelling Kopi Luwak, provenance of, 4·360 gelatin formation from, 4·67

LXVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 66 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM CONVECTION OVEN MODE C

collagen (continued) combi ovens (continued) conducting foods, pressure-canning consommé holding at speci c temperature and, kitchen humidity and, 2·164 and, 2·88 Bagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230 2·247 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 conduction. See also conduction zone best bets for, 2·374–375 Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51 omelet cooking in, 4·95 in cookware, 1·277–278 clarifying, 2·352 long, slow cooking and, 3·84 pans for, 2·166 in deep-frying, 2·117 crystal clear, 2·359 in meat, 3·6 pot-roasting using, 2·96 in foods, 1·279, 280–281 example recipes for, 2·376–377 meat tenderness and, 3·10 program cooking with, 2·168–169, pressure-canning and, 2·89 Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, muscle contraction and, 3·8–9 172–173 freezing water and, 1·299 4·48 shrinkage of, 3·79 Rational. See Rational combi ovens heat transfer with, 1·277 Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206 in skin, baking chicken upright and, rib eye recipe using, 2·180 in panfrying, 2·42–43 parametric recipe for, 2·374–375 2·109 roasting chicken in, 2·178–179 in , 2·127 Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52 skin shrinkage and, 3·116, 118 for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239, underground, wine storage and, Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86 of young vs. older animals, juiciness 243 4·345 Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278 and, 3·79, 81 water content of heated air in, 2·153 in various materials, 1·280–281 vacuum  ltering of, 2·354 collapse temperature, in freeze-drying, Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 2·181 conduction zone consommé madrilène, parametric 2·446 combination (combi) mode, in modern baking and, 2·108 recipe for, 2·374–375 Collectramatic, 2·120–121 ovens, 2·156–157 in steak frying, 3·75 constant-rate period colloid mills, 2·398–400 combustion, of wood, 2·137 stir-frying and, 2·48 in baking, 2·106–107 for dry-grinding, 2·404 comminution, 3·230 con dence interval, of nutritional in deep-frying, 2·117 features of, 2·416–417 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, studies, 1·220 in drying, 2·431 milling creamy nut bu er with, 5·55, 58 con ts, 2·128–131 constructed cheeses 2·418–419 compressed fruits and vegetables Artichoke Con t, 5·171, 172 best bets for, 4·223 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 example recipes for, 3·392–401, Chestnut Con t, 5·17, 18 example recipes for, 4·224–225 for wet-grinding, 2·413–414, 5·285 Con t Cure Mix, 3·179 constructed creams, 4·214 416–419 parametric recipe for, 3·390–391 Con t Egg- Puree, 5·147, 148 Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33 colloidal suspensions (colloids) Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212 duck, curing for, 3·159 example recipes for, 4·236–237 blood as, 4·6 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392 Duck Leg Con t with Pommes Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, description of, 4·12 Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, 110 Sarladaises, 3·178 221 emulsi ed sausage as, 3·225 Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15 Garlic Con t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81 contamination reductions of, 4·11 compression, vacuum Lobster Mushroom Con t, 5·185, by animal  esh, 1·117  e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336 physics of, 2·213 187 cross-contamination and. See cross- colony-forming units (CFUs), 1·142 for plant food cooking, 3·286 Pink Grapefruit Con t, 5·225, 226 contamination color using chamber sealers, 2·214 safety considerations for, 2·128 environmental, 1·116, 117 alteration of, when cooking cured computer simulation models Smoked Potato Con t, 5·193, 195 fecal meat or seafood, 3·165 of bacterial growth, 1·147 Sous Vide Duck Con t Pavé, 5·81, animal, 1·116–117 boiling to “ x,” chemistry of, 2·63, of cold-shocking e ects on cooking, 82 hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200 66 2·254 sous vide preparation of, 2·128–129 plant foods and, 1·197 of cow’s milk, 4·202 of  ipping food for speed and Steelhead Trout Con t with Fennel by human spi le, 1·116, 117 of crustaceans, molting and, 3·30 evenness, 2·39 Salad, 3·106 kitchen space and, 1·200 of fresh juice, preserving, 2·338, 339 of heat  ows in roasting vs. baking, Tomato Con t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67 microbial gassing meat for, chemistry of, 3·95 2·33 traditional preparation of, 2·128, aerobic. See aerobic bacteria of meat of heat transfer, 1·282 130–131 anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteria cooking and, 3·93–94 of time for steaming vs. boiling, 2·73 conformations, of prion diseases, 1·156, bad odors from sealed bags and, muscles and, 3·12, 14–15, 16–17 COMSOL, 1·282 158 2·214 myoglobin and, 3·92–93 concentrates, 2·378–397 confounding e ects, nutritional studies shell sh foraging and, 3·27–28 physics of temperature and, 1·291 cell dehydration in, 1·305 and, 1·219 continuous phase of plant foods freezing, 2·396, 397 conjugation, plasmid transfer by, 1·133 of cream, 4·203 cooking and changes in, chemistry Genevac Rocket Evaporator for, Connaughton, Kyle, 3·54 in emulsions, 4·199 of, 3·274–275 2·391–395 Fluke Cured in recipe, 3·181 ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205 drying and, 3·365 reverse osmosis for, 2·396 Sous Vide recipe, 2·313 in foams, 4·243 of seafood, cooking and, 3·93–94 rotary evaporator for, 2·384–389 connective tissue controlled-vapor oven. See CVap water- wine taste and, 4·334–335, 338 strategies for, 2·379–380 aging of, 3·41 vapor ovens colorectal cancer, dietary  ber and risk vacuum reduction for, 2·380–383 barbecue stall and, 3·212 convecting foods, pressure-canning of, of, 1·214–217 concentrators, vacuum, 2·285, 379, 380 baseball glove cut from pork 2·88, 89 Columbus, Christopher, 1·14 conching, chocolate making by, 2·404 shoulder and, 3·48 convection Combal.Zero, 1·70 concretes, solvent extraction of blocking tuna and, 3·54–55 convection zone and, 2·48 ComBase Initiative, Growth Predictor essential oils and, 2·320 of bones, 3·143–144 cooking using, 1·279, 281–283. See (bacterial modeling) and, 1·147 condensates brining and, 3·157 also convection baking; convection Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180 de nition of, 1·319 cooking and, 3·76 ovens combi ovens  lm, steaming and, 1·319, 2·70 of tough cuts, 3·84 forced, 1·282–283, 2·159 bacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175 from rotary evaporation, 2·390–391 in fa y tissue, 3·118, 145 freezing water and, 1·299 baking using, 2·106 smoke, drenching food with, 2·149 in heart meat, 3·142 heat transfer with, 1·277 broccoli steamed in, 2·181 condensation. See also evaporation; in kidneys, 3·141 natural, 1·282, 283 calibration of, 2·163 humidity pounding and, 3·50 panfrying and, 2·42–43 cooking in, 2·167–168 deep-frying and, 2·125 sausage-making and, 3·224 convection baking cooking modes of, 2·155–157 energy transfer and, 2·70 in skin, 3·116 boundary layer and, 2·108, 110 cooking strategies for, 2·170 evaporative cooling as, 1·319–321, in sweetbreads, 3·140 radiant heat and, 2·110–111 crisping skin with, 3·123 325 tenderizing of, 3·41 convection cells, in natural convection, drying in, 2·430, 431 heat transfer with, 1·277 with marinades, 3·192, 193, 195 1·283 heat and humidity control in, stir-frying and, 2·48 in tongue, 3·141 convection currents, boiling and, 1·315 2·162–163 condensers, vacuum, essential oils and, tumbling and, 3·51 convection oven mode, combi ovens improvement proposals for, 2·167 2·320 conservation of mass, 1·331 and, 2·157, 168 invention of, 2·154 Condrieu Bu er, 5·171, 172

INDEX LXVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 67 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM C CONVECTION OVENS

convection ovens. See also convection Coppens, Kristof, 1·70 crab. See also crabmeat Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5 baking copyright laws, chefs’ recipes and, biology of, 3·28, 30 drying in, 2·431 1·70–71 liver  uke infections and, 1·124 as draining in foams, 4·249 forced convection, 1·282–283 core temperature crabmeat as emulsion failure, 4·210, 218 forced-convection steam ovens and, FDA Food Code on, 1·174 Crab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255 creams 2·239 heating to, food safety and, 1·191 Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253, constructed, 4·214, 236–237 method of operation, 1·282–283 target 256 Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33 TurboChef microwave oven and, holding food at, 2·247–249 Crab Oil, 5·189, 190 making, best bets for, 4·56 2·189 water bath ho er than, 2·243–247 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, parametric recipe for, 4·56 convection steaming, in ovens, 2·156 water bath set to, 2·243–245 4·169 crema convection zone, stir-frying and, 2·48 coriander extract, parametric recipe for, Edamame Sheets, King Crab, age of roasted co ee beans and, convenience food, corporate control of, 2·326 Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118 4·361 1·23 corked wine, 4·348–350 faux (), 3·251, 388 carbon dioxide and, 4·384 Cook, Robin, 3·196 rescuing, chemistry of, 4·349 Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191 chemistry of, 4·388 cookbook writers, chefs as, 1·83 corks, for wine bo les, natural and Pu ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190 crème anglaise cook-chill sous vide methods synthetic, 4·344, 345, 346 Shell sh Stock, 5·185, 186 Cauli ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89 canning and, 2·204–205 corn. See also popcorn Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork parametric recipe for, 4·85 for food preservation, 2·252 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254 crème brûlée frigi-canning and, 2·84 for, 3·289, 292 Cracco, Carlo, 1·70 parametric recipe for, 4·85 for storage, 1·206, 2·250 Corn Bread, 5·67, 76 Seafood Paper recipe, 3·188 Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88 vacuum packing for, 2·208–209 Corn Croque a, 3·341 crack phases, in co ee roasting, 4·361, crème caramel cooked whole eggs, parametric recipe Corn Custard, 4·122 362 parametric recipe for, 4·92 for, 4·78–79 Corn Foam, 4·273 crackers Crème Caramel, 4·101 cooking. See also speci c cooking Corn Pebbles, 4·36 pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 crème fraîche techniques and foods Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104 Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303 Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28 corporate approach to, 1·22–24 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, cracklings, water as foaming gas for, Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut of early civilizations, 1·7–8, 10–13 3·366 4·254 Cream, 2·411 evolution of, 1·14–16 dried, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 Craig, Lyman, 2·384 Red-Onion Cream, 3·68 history of origins of, 1·6–13 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, cranberries, cooking sous vide, Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD), history of Slow Food and, 1·23 3·372 parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291 1·157–159, 160 by hunter-gatherers and early freezing to preserve  avor of, 3·374 c r a w  s h / c r a y  s h Crilly, Grant, Prune Coals recipe, 5·17 farmers, 1·6–7 frozen, grits ground from, 3·376 freshwater, biology of, 3·28 crimini mushrooms Modernist. See Modernist cuisine pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 liver  uke infections and, 1·124 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe New American cuisine, 1·28–29 puree of, parametric recipe for, as seafood gel, 3·222 for, 3·289 Nouvelle revolution in, 1·24, 26–31 2·425 CREA (Centre de Recherche et Crimini in Amber, 4·154 of plant foods under pressure, smoking, parametric recipe for, d’Études pour l’Alimentation), 1·43 Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14 example recipes for, 3·301–303, 3·362 C-reactive protein, 1·227, 242 Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13 5·181 corn oil, chemistry of, 2·126 cream. See also creams Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116 revolution in, 1·18–20 corn starch, 4·20 adding to co ee, physics of, 1·289 crisping skin at low end, 1·20–22 thickening with, parametric recipe Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193 approaches to, 3·123 Nouvelle, 1·24, 26–31 for, 4·28 clo ed, parametric recipe for, 4·56 a er cooking sous vide, 2·268 in 17th century France, 1·9 corn syrup,  avor release by, 4·11 Corn Foam, 4·273 of  sh of skin, example recipes for, corned beef cure, parametric recipe for, Cromesquis, 3·340 slime as key to, physiology of, 3·129 3·132–135 3·169 Eggplant Foam, 4·280 small, how to, 3·130 sous vide. See sous vide cornmeal, gelling properties of, 4·68 emulsi cation into bu er, 4·206 sous vide, 3·131 traditional. See traditional cooking Corriher, Shirley O., 1·44 as emulsion, viscosity of, 4·205 crisps cooking times, food geometry and cotechino, parametric recipe for, emulsions and, 4·221 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304 estimates of, 1·279 3·236–237 heavy Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64 cooktop. See also burners; stove top Côtes-du-Rhône wine, early Greek gums added to, 4·102 Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 traders and, 1·12 organic food movement perception Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43, 47 cookware. See also pans; pots; speci c co age cheese, parametric recipe for, of, 1·253 Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44 types of cookware 4·104 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57 Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303 aluminum co onseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126 hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125 Crispy Cauli ower plated-dish recipe, conduction in, 1·280 coulant, of Michael Bras, 1·40 Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57 5·281–283 heat capacity of, 1·278 Counter Culture Co ee, 4·361 Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57 Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104 cast iron, 1·278, 280 Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86 as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199, 201 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63 ceramic, conductivity and, 1·277 Coupe-Set, 2·410 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, Crispy Dosa, 3·355 conductivity of, 1·277–278 court bouillon, truite au bleu and, 3·40 4·276 Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84 cooling. See also chilling; chilling water Courtine, Robert (La Reynière), 1·26 separating bu erfat from, 2·366, 368 Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico a Dumpling, baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; covalent bonds, 1·296, 330 for set foams, parametric recipe for, 5·273, 274 freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators covered sautéing, 2·58–61 4·288–289 Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335 evaporative chao technique and, 2·54 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100 Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken plated- humidity and, 1·319–320 cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune dish recipe, 5·113–119 oven temperatures and, 2·155 searing or glazing before, 2·58 Sabayon, 3·363 Crispy Okra, 5·90, 97 of hot food covering brine, for accelerating brining, whipped, hot and cold treatment for, Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168 food safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256, 3·166 4·244, 248 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150 257 cow pumps, extruding gel noodles with, Whipped Bu er, 4·286 critical point, in phase diagrams, phase changes and, 1·290 4·139 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato 1·302–303 starchy plants and, 3·280, 282 cow’s milk. See also milk Chips, 4·287 critical temperature vacuum-assisted allergies to, 1·238 cream cheese bacterial replication rates and, evaporation and, 1·321 cP (centipoise), 4·6 Aerated Co ee Ice Cream, 4·312 1·142–143 phase changes in, 1·290 CP Kelco, 4·40 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63 for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453 Copenhagen Pectin, 4·40 Creamed Spinach, 4·55 freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446

LXVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 68 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM DASHI D

Crljenak Kastelanski grapes, 4·326 cryospheri cation, 4·184 custard (continued) crock pots, 2·240 Cryovac Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221 Cromesquis, 3·340 AGS system of vacuum packing and, Japanese (chawanmushi), parametric crosnes, cooking sous vide, parametric 1·40 recipe for, 4·92 D recipe for, 3·292 Roux, sous vide cooking and, 1·41 parametric recipe for, 4·84 D (decimal) level reductions cross-contamination sous vide school and, 1·42, 43 royale, parametric recipe for, 4·92 1D or 12D, for sanitizing food, 1·148, dirty gloves and, 1·200 cryptosporidiosis, 1·129 Salmon Custard, 4·119 149 E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129 Shell sh Custard, 4·162 of pathogens in food, 1·166, 168 and, 1·172 Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368 cutaway illustrations Dacosta, Quique food safety standards and, 1·168–169 cucumber chips, parametric recipe for, of baked turkey, 2·104–105 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37 foodborne pathogens and, 1·166 3·328 of bao technique of stir-frying, 2·55 Frozen White “Tru e” recipe, gluten intolerance and, 1·239 cucumbers of boiling à l’Anglaise, 2·64–65 3·400–401 UV powder for tracking, 1·201 compressing, parametric recipe for, of boiling-water canning, 2·82–83 Kanpachi with Citrus Foam crotchless porta lters, 4·385, 388, 398 3·390 of chao technique of stir-frying, recipe, 4·269 cruciferous vegetables. See also speci c Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 2·56–57 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth vegetables 5·94 of covered sautéing of vegetables, recipe, 4·273 blanching, 2·214 impregnating, parametric recipe for, 2·60–61 liquid nitrogen cooking by, 2·459 crustaceans. See also crabmeat; crabs; 3·390 of CVap water-vapor oven, 2·160–161 Modernist cuisine and, 1·57 craw sh; lobsters; prawns; shrimp Nukazuke, 3·354 of deep-frying, 1·89, 2·118–119 “Into the Vegetable Garden” and, biology of, 3·28–31 preserving, parametric recipe for, for depicting science of cooking, 3·294 cu ing of, 3·52 3·348 1·84, 88–89 Daguin, André, liquid nitrogen and, Maillard reaction of, 3·87 Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236 of espresso machine, 4·402–403 1·60–61, 62, 65 Cruz, Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353 of Girardet method, 2·24–25 Daguin, Ariane, 1·61 4·146 Cuisine Solutions, 1·43, 2·265 of grilling, 2·8–9 radishes, cooking sous vide, cryoconcentration, of wine, 4·330 Le Cuisinier François (La Varenne, 1651), of heat loss from stove-top pots, 1·276 parametric recipe for, 3·289 cryoextraction, of wine, 2·396 1·8, 9 of indirect grilling, 2·13  e Daily Cleveland Herald, 3·220 cryogenic freezing, 2·456–467, 471–473 cultures, bacterial, for fermented of meat grinder, 3·229 dairy brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168 characteristics of, 2·456, 458 sausage, 3·246 of microwave oven, 2·186–187 dairy products. See also speci c dairy dry ice for, 2·458, 464, 466, 471–473 curds. See proteins, curds of of Pacojet, 2·408–409 products food  avor and, 2·261 Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” of pot-roasting, 2·94–95 emulsions, 4·218–229 ice crystal formation in freezers and, 3·185 of pressure-canning, 2·90–91 example recipes for, 4·219–221 2·257–258 Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84 of pressure-cooking stock, 2·293–294 foaming agents and, 4·251 liquid nitrogen for, 1·308, 2·456, 458, cures of Ronco Showtime Oven, gels, 4·102–123 459, 460–463 example recipes for, 3·176–185, 5·17, 2·34–35 example recipes for, 4·105–111, safety with, 2·464, 466, 467 18, 43, 151 of sautéing, 2·46–47 114, 117, 120, 122 science of how liquid nitrogen boils parametric recipe for, 3·168–172 of searing a la plancha, 2·40–41 parametric recipe for, 4·116–117 and, 2·457 curing of sou é, 4·248–249 pasteurization of tartares and raw meat preparation accelerating strategies for, 3·166–167, of steak frying in skillet, 3·72–73 FDA Food Code on, 1·187, 188–189 with, 3·62 174–175 of steaming, 2·72–73 simpli ed cooking standards for, cryogenics best bets for, 3·172 of stewing, 2·96–97 1·190, 191, 192 de nition of, 2·456 dry. See dry-curing of whipping siphon, 4·261 smoking late 19th-century research on, 1·60 drying with warm air and, 2·433 of wok stir-frying, 1·88, 2·50–51 best bets for, 4·100 for quick freezing, 1·308 for food preservation, 3·152 cu ing boards, kitchen hygiene and, parametric recipe for, 4·100 cryogens, 2·456. See also dry ice; liquid functional ingredients for, 3·155 1·204 typical nitrogen nitrates, nitrites, and nitrosamines cu ing particles down to size. See fat content of, 5·XLIII culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70 and, 3·160 particle size reduction water content of, 5·XL safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467 process of, 3·158, 160, 162, 165–166 cu le sh Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283 spheri cation with, 4·184 ripening a er, 3·167, 173 biology of, 3·24 Dal Pescatore, 1·28 suppliers of, 2·458 safety of, worrisome signs during, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Dalton’s law of partial pressures, 2·87 cryograting, how to, 2·461 3·164 for, 3·108 “danger zone,” 1·175–179 cryopoaching salts for. See salts, curing Japanese cu ing of, 3·52 microbial growth pa erns and, 1·175 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, time and salt concentration for, 3·154 CVap water-vapor ovens misconceptions about, 1·175–176, 165 wet. See wet-curing bacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175 178–179 Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291 curries. See also curry sauces cooking modes of, 2·155–156, 169 Salmonella growth and, 1·177 for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61 for  avor and preservation, cooking strategies for, 2·170 Dannon yogurt technique for, 2·460 3·196–197 cutaway illustration of, 2·160–161 for American tastes, 1·20–21 cryopowdering, how to, 2·461 Curry Oil, 2·331 forced convection in, 2·159 as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23 cryorendering curry sauces heat and humidity control in, dark cu er meat, 3·35 of subcutaneous fat, 3·122 Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95 2·158–159 dark meat. See also red meat before vacuum packing, 2·268 Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96 improvement proposals for, 2·167 in and turkeys, 3·12 cryosearing Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98 invention of, 2·154 in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17 with dry ice, 2·464 Mughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92 CWD (chronic wasting disease), 1·159  avor of, 3·15 of duck breast, how to, 3·124–125 Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93 cyanide in sedentary animals, 3·14 with liquid nitrogen, 2·456, 458 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393 bi er almond aroma of, 3·262 DART 1 (Diet and Reinfarction Trial), of skin and fat, 3·118 custard cassava cooking by South American 1·232 of subcutaneous fat, 3·122 Asparagus Royale, 4·94 natives and, 1·6 DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop cryoshaping, how to, 2·463 Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63 cyclamate, as banned additive, 1·252 Hypertension) trials, 1·234, 236, 237 cryosha ering Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127 Cyclospora cayetanensis, 1·129 dashi for coarse-ground sausage, 3·230 Cauli ower Panna Co a, 4·142 cyclosporosis, 1·129 Bacon Dashi, 2·308 how to, 2·463 Chawanmushi, 4·96 cysteine, 3·89 Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94 of plant foods, to modify texture, Corn Custard, 4·122 cysticercosis, 1·124 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, 3·374 Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120 cytochrome, 3·12, 94 Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118 for tartare, how to, 3·64 Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264 Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197

INDEX LXIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 69 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM D DASHI

dashi (continued) deep-frying (continued) Dewar, James, 1·60, 66 digestion parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 thickness of food and, 2·127 Dewar  asks of ca eine, 4·363 dates water vapor in, 2·115, 116–117, for liquid nitrogen storage, 2·458 of carbon dioxide, 2·464 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 118–119, 125 Marshall and demonstration of, 1·60 of raw plants, biology of, 3·269 for, 3·290 deer. See also venison safe handling of, 2·467 of starches, 4·20 Date Puree, 5·121, 122 chronic wasting disease in, 1·159 venting, 2·466 digital scales de Landa, Bishop Diego, of Yucatán, hunters of, CJD-like disease in, 1·161 DFD (dry  rm dark), early rigor mortis gram-type, 1·94–95 1·13 defrost cycles, automatic, ice crystal and, 3·35 for measuring hydrocolloids, 4·38 De re coquinaria. See Apicius formation and, 2·258 DI (deionized) water, 1·335 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 de Serres, Pierre Degeimbre, Sang-hoon espresso-making and, 4·384 pocket-type, for measuring Freedom Cooking System of, 2·240 Lychee and Lime Soda recipe, 4·268 hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, thickeners, 4·23 sous vide at home and, 1·73 Modernist cuisine and, 1·70 4·124, 125 digital thermometers dealcoholization, in viticulture, 4·331 dehydrated foods, seasonal mélanges for plant food cooking, 3·278 accuracy issues with, 1·206–207 deaths with, 3·295 diabetes, vegan diet and, 1·244 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 bacterial, 1·148–151 Dehydrated Garlic Chip, 5·43, 46 Diamond, Jared, 3·268 for sous vide cooking, 2·240 pasteurization and sterilization for, dehydrating cabinets. See also drying diaphragm, as sausage binder, 3·222–223 for testing refrigerator hot and cold 1·149 features of, 2·431, 434–435 diarrhea spots, 2·257 thermal death curves of, 1·150–151 dehydration. See drying bacterial dispersal and, 1·134 diglycerides, 4·216–217 human dehydrators pathogens causing, 1·114, 126, 138, dill from botulism vs. toxoplasma, drying in, 2·430, 3·365 155 Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164 1·118 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 traveler’s, 1·129 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, foodborne illnesses and, 1·113 deionized (DI) water, 1·335 Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 1·13 165 from foodborne microorganisms, espresso-making and, 4·384 Dickens, Charles, 5·125 Dill Spheres, 4·130 1·113 hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, on partridge, 5·132 Dioscorides, Pedanius, 1·11 U.S. rates for foodborne illnesses 4·124, 125 Diet and Reinfarction Trial (DART 1), Diphyllobothrium latum, 1·124 vs. other causes of, 1·118 for plant food cooking, 3·278 1·232 dipole molecules, 1·330 deca einated co ee Delhasse, Anthony, 1·70 Dietary Approaches to Stop Dippin’ Dots, 1·61, 72 espresso, temperature se ings and, delicata squash, cooking sous vide, Hypertension (DASH) trials, 1·234, discoloration, when cooking cured meat 4·374, 385 parametric recipe for, 3·289 236, 237 or seafood, 3·165 production process for, 1·256 Les Délices de la Campagne (Bonnefons, dietary systems disease names, etymology of, 1·119 science of, 4·363 1654), 1·9 dietary  ber in, 1·214–217 dish towels, cross-contamination and, decanting wine, 4·342–343 deliquescence, 2·428 medical, 1·222–239 1·200 deception, culinary, 3·388–401 Demetrius of Phalerum, 1·13 nonmedical, 1·240–249 disodium 5’ guanylate, 3·160 , in co ee brewing, 4·364 denaturing as rules for eating, 1·211 disodium 5’ inosinate, 3·160 deconstruction of collagen testing disease risk and, 1·218–221, dispersed phase Adrià on elBulli cooking and, as gelatin, 3·78 258 in emulsions, 4·199, 205 1·37–38 in living animals, 3·76 diets in foams, 4·243 Blumenthal on, 1·51 holding at speci c temperature as, of animals, meat tenderness and, 3·11 ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205 Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321 2·247 Atkins, 1·242 dispersing Deep-Fried Cauli ower, 5·281, 283 of proteins, foaming and, 4·244 colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217 approaches to, 4·20, 22 Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120 Denia, 1·57 DART 1, 1·232 of cellulosic gums, 4·127 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228 Denominazione di Origine Controllata DASH, 1·234, 236, 237 of hydrocolloids deep-frying, 2·116–127 (DOC), 4·332 detox, 1·248 for gelling, 4·124 baking compared with, 2·116–117 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e fat in. See fat, dietary for thickening, 4·38 ba er coating for, 2·122, 127 Garantita (DOCG), 4·332  ber in. See  ber, dietary of thickeners, how to, 4·24 a er cooking sous vide, 2·271 density, heat capacity of cookware and, grapefruit, 1·240–241 dissolved materials. See also solubility crust and, 2·122–123 1·278 LEARN, 1·242 boiling point and, 1·318 cutaway illustration of, 1·89, dental vibrator tray, for espresso low-carbohydrate, 1·242 freezing and, 1·304–305 2·118–119 tamping, 4·380 low-fat, 1·241 reductions of, 4·11 equipment for, 2·287 deoxymyoglobin, 3·93 Mediterranean, 1·232, 241, 242 distillation, 2·384–394 factors a ecting oil coating of foods deposition Shangri-La, 1·241 example recipes for, 2·389 and, 2·127 de nition of, 1·326 South Beach, 1·242 Genevac Rocket Evaporator for, foam forming with, 4·258 sublimation vs., 1·329 Spectrum, 1·242 2·391–395 food size for, 2·117 derivatives, mathematical, de nition of, vegan, 1·244 invention of, 2·390 greasiness with, avoiding, 2·125, 127 2·230 weight loss, 1·240–241 for purifying water, 1·335 heat conduction in, 2·117 desiccants, food drying and, 2·428 di erential scanning calorimeter rotary evaporator for, 2·384–391 heat transfer coe cient of, 1·283 desiccation zone (DSC), 1·268 U.S. laws on, 1·94, 2·384, 391 high-pressure, 2·120–121 in baking, 2·107, 108 d i  u s i o n vacuum, 2·380. See also rotary multistep, 2·122–123 in steak frying, 3·74 accelerating in brining or curing, evaporators oil used for desiccators, vacuum 3·166–167 DNA age of, 2·127 drying plants foods with, 3·365 in alcohol-based marinades, 3·195, testing genetic origins of grapes chemistry of, 2·126 features of, 2·433, 436–437 198 using, 4·326, 327 fresh, 2·123 foam forming with, 4·310 in brining, 3·154, 156, 158 in viruses, 1·152 new, breaking in, 2·123 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 in curing, 3·154, 160, 162, 164, 165 DOC (Denominazione di Origine repeated use of, 2·123–125 dessert trolleys in drying with salt and sugar, 3·346 Controllata), 4·332 smoking of, 2·124 disappearance from elBulli of, 1·35 Fick’s law of, 2·283, 290, 343 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine temperature of, 2·116, 122, 123, plated desserts vs., 1·25 in marinating, 3·190 Controllata e Garantita), 4·332 127 detergents, as surfactants, 4·202 of water through food, drying Don’t Forget Fiber in Your Diet (Burki ), overloading and, 2·125 detox diets, 1·248 actions and, 2·428 1·214 under pressure, 2·120–121 Deviled Eggs, 4·81 di usivity, thermal doorknobs, personal hygiene and, 1·200 precooking food sous vide for, 2·123 dew point, 1·325, 2·154 in cookware, 1·278 dose standard, for espresso shots, 4·380 stages of, 2·116–117 on psychrometric charts, how to of foods and various materials, dosing, in espresso-making, 4·378, 380 surface roughness of food and, 2·127 read, 1·323 1·280–281 double ristre o, evolution of, 4·379

LXX INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 70 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM EGG WHITES E

double stocks, 2·290 drying (continued) duck stock, parametric recipe for, double-blind trials in combi oven, convection mode for, 2·296–298 for nutritional studies, 1·218–219 2·168 duck tongue in wine tasting, 4·340, 342 crisping skin and, 3·123 cooking of, 3·141 E double-disc mills, 2·404 desiccants and, 2·428 sous vide, parametric recipe for, East Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69 Dover sole, aging e ects on, 3·40 desiccation zone and 3·146 Eating Quality Assured beef-grading DQ curing salt, 3·158 in baking, 2·107, 108 Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84 system, Australia, 3·39 dra ,  re and, 2·7 in steak frying, 3·74 Du y, Curtis, 1·69 echinoderms, 3·30 drag, convection baking and, 2·110 equipment for, 2·286 Dufresne, Wylie ecograstronomy, of Slow Food, 1·23 dragon fruit, compressing and freeze-drying and. See freeze-drying Achatz’s meal at elBulli and, 1·38, 52 École de La Varenne, 4·322–325 impregnating, parametric recipe for, by hunter-gatherers, 1·6 Aerated Foie Gras recipe, 4·311 ecological studies, of nutrition, 1·220 3·390 liquid smoke and, 2·149 Almond Polenta recipe, 4·36 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, draining, in foams, 4·249 of meat and seafood, 3·152–189 Avocado Puree recipe, 5·205, 207 Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, of plant foods, 3·365–373 Barbecued Eel with Whipped edge sealers, 2·222–224 5·267, 270 progressive smoking and, 2·148 Caramel recipe, 4·283 chamber sealers vs., 2·222 dried fermented sausages, 3·246, 250 rehydration and, physics of, 1·321 Beignet of Sauce Ravigote recipe, common problems with, 2·223 drip co ee maker, automatic, 4·368 ripening of cured meat or seafood 5·49, 51 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 drippings and, 3·173 Cheese Pu s recipe, 4·305 rigid containers and, 2·226–227  ares from, aluminum foil in grills with salt and sugar, 3·344, 346, 348 cold gels and, 4·140, 144 vacuum packing with, 2·224 and, 2·15 spray-drying and, 2·438–443 Corn Pebbles recipe, 4·36 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles,  avor of grilled food and, 2·12 equipment for, 2·285, 430 Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 4·63 4·267 dry boxes, 2·431, 434–435. See also method for, 2·442 Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico a “edible earth” drying strategies for, 2·430 Dumpling recipe, 5·273, 274 Edible Earth, 4·37 dry  rm dark (DFD), early rigor mortis tapeworms and, 1·124 critics on, 1·63 Redzepi and, 3·294 and, 3·35 vacuum-assisted, 1·321, 2·215 Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe, edible  lms, 4·6 dry ice, 2·458 vacuum-drying and, 2·430, 433, 4·228 best bets for, 4·60 carbonating fruit with, 2·472 436–437 on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, Edible Wrappers, 4·62 carbonating liquids with, 2·464 with warm air, 2·431–433, 434–435 3·366 parametric recipe for, 4·60 freezing using, 1·310, 311 DSC (di erential scanning Edamame Sheets, King Crab, edible glasses, 4·6 safe handling of, 2·464, 466 calorimeter), 1·268 Cinnamon Dashi recipe, 4·118 dehydrating formula for, 3·367 sublimation and, 1·326 Ducasse, Alain Edible Earth recipe, 4·37 Pineapple Glass, 3·370 suppliers of, 2·458 Asparagus Royale recipe, 4·94 Sandwich recipe, 4·90 Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123 tru es, storing with, 2·471 Gras, Laurent and, 1·69 Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe, eel dry process, for co ee, 4·358 Jus de la Presse recipe, 2·347 5·167, 168 Barbecued Eel with Whipped dry rubs on Modernist cuisine, 1·63 freeze  ltration and, 2·369 Caramel, 4·283 basic, parametric recipe for, 3·169 New International cuisine and, 1·30, Gruyère Spheres recipe, 4·190 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe best bets for, 3·168, 169 31 Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 3·65 for, 3·102 functional ingredients in, 3·155 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Horseradish Foam recipe, 4·284 e ciency Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68 Marmalade and Porcini recipe, Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 4·172 energy, power and, 1·274–276 Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68 3·97 Knot Foie recipe, 4·144 heat transfer coe cient and, 1·283 parametric recipe for, 3·168–172 sous vide cooking and, 1·42 Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67, 69 Egg Blossom, 4·80 sweet, parametric recipe for, 3·169 duck molded egg yolk tubes of, 4·90–91 egg emulsions, example recipes for, dry-aging meat, 3·41 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 Popcorn Pudding recipe, 4·181 4·226–229 how to, 3·42 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Skate Pavé with Bread Crust recipe, egg gels, 4·74–101 dry-bulb temperature for, 3·99, 108 5·157 blended braising or pot-roasting in ovens cryorendering before vacuum Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87 best bets for, 4·92 and, 2·96 packing, 2·268 Steingarten on, 1·65 parametric recipe for, 4·92 consistent baking and, 2·111 cryosearing, how to, 3·124–125 Sunny-Side Up “Eggs” and, example recipes for, 4·80–81, 83, in CVap water-vapor oven, curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172 14·148–149 86–91, 93–99, 101 2·158–159 Duck Apicius plated-dish recipe, dulse, 5·28 parametric recipe for, 4·116–117 in deep-frying, 2·116 5·121–123 dumplings. See also gnocchi separated ordinary ovens and, 2·155 Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237 best bets for, 4·85 preheating to, 2·103 Leaf, 5·109, 110 Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico a parametric recipe for, 4·85 on psychrometric charts, how to Duck Leg Con t with Pommes Dumpling, 5·273, 274 Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90 read, 1·323 Sarladaises, 3·178 Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105 custard, parametric recipe for, in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165 foie gras and. See foie gras soup, about, 5·254 4·85 relative humidity and, 1·322 meat color of chicken vs., 3·16–17 Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), egg whites smoking and, 3·211 Moulard, for foie gras production, 4·117, 5·55, 59 droplets of, parametric recipe for, wet-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102, 3·138 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 4·85 106, 112 Sous Vide Duck Con t Pavé, 5·81, 4·169 as  ning agents, 2·358–360 dry-curing 82 Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Bao Chicken for  uid gels, 4·176 equilibrium, 3·165 Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87 recipe, 3·205 foams formed from, 4·247 for food preservation, 3·152 duck eggs Durand, Peter, 2·75 Foam, 5·211, 212 osmosis and, 3·154 Century Egg, 4·83 Durand-Ruel, Paul, 1·19 Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284 salinity for, 3·160 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220 dynamic viscosity, 4·6 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, dryers, vacuum, 2·430, 433, 436–437 duck fat, chemistry of, 2·126 4·294 dry-grinding, equipment for, duck foie gras. See foie gras with myosin for meat glue, 3·250 2·401–402, 404, 407 Duck Leg Con t with Pommes proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244 drying, 2·428–455. See also curing Sarladaises, 3·178 for set foams, parametric recipe for, in baking, stages of, 2·106–108 duck skin 4·288–289 characteristics of, 2·428 how to precook, 3·82 Siphoned Sou é á la Lorraine, 4·297 with cold, dry air, 1·326, 328 leaving extra during butchery of, Steamed Blancmange, 4·296 in cold-smoking, 2·143 3·116, 118

INDEX LXXI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 71 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM E EGG WHITES

egg whites (continued) eggs (continued) elastin emulsions (continued) texture of, temperature and, faux in abalone and cu le sh membranes, science of, 4·205 4·76–77 “Poached” Egg, 4·195 3·52 optics of, physics of, 4·203 as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·70 Prosciu o and Melon “Raw Egg,” in gizzards, 3·141 other types of, example recipes for, egg 4·194 in heart meat, 3·142 4·230–235 Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233 FDA Food Code on, 1·184, 185–186, elBulli. See also Adrià, Ferran particle size reduction for, 2·398 Cauli ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89 187  rst meal at, experience of, 1·38–39 reductions of, 4·11 Con t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148 Salmonella and, 1·183, 185 Modernist cuisine and, 1·33–40 science of, 4·200, 202, 204–205 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228 FDA safe cooking standards for, 1·170 elBullitaller, 1·35 stabilizers for, 4·215 droplets of, parametric recipe for,  uid gel properties of, 4·16 Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315 for thickening, 4·7 4·85  uid gels based on, 4·176 electric broilers thickening and longevity of, 4·5 Dufresne’s molded tubes of, 4·90–91 development of, 1·66, 68 wood- red oven-like performance tools for, 4·208 Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90 parametric recipe for, 4·177 by, 2·26–27 types of, 4·199 Egg Yolk Con t, 5·211, 213 foam forming with, 4·247, 251, 255 working features of, 2·20–21 vinaigre es as, 4·230–231 for  uid gels, 4·176 Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250 electric coils, e ciency of, 1·274 viscosity and, 4·204–205 parametric recipe for, 4·177 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, electric  elds wet-grinding and, 2·412 Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250 2·451 strong, to kill bacteria, 1·149 emulsion-style sausages Gruyère Sou é, 4·301 French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93 wine storage and, 4·345 best bets for, 3·238–239 for light foams, parametric recipe fried, two-stage, parametric recipe electric griddles, 2·40 characteristics of, 3·222, 225 for, 4·270 for, 4·85 electric whisks, foam forming with, Emulsi ed Sausage with Fat Gel, Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95 4·258, 4·259 3·248 proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244 Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227 elements, physics of color indicators of example recipes for, 3·242–243 Sauce Allemande, 4·88 hot-spring (onsen), 4·75 temperature and, 1·291 grinding fat and meat separately for, Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216 parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78 elk 3·231 for set foams, parametric recipe for, L’Arpège egg, 5·211 chronic wasting disease in, 1·159 parametric recipe for, 3·238–239 4·288–289 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180 hunters, CJD-like disease in, 1·161 endemic pathogens, 1·110 as sliceable gel, 4·74 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220 emetic agents, Bacillus cereus as, 1·138 endive, cooking sous vide, parametric parametric recipe for, 4·85 marinated in vinegar, 4·75 emission spectra recipe for, 3·289 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87 of blackbodies, 1·285 endomysium, 3·6 Sabayon, 3·363 Omelet Base, 5·215, 217 physics of temperature and, 1·291 energy. See also heat; temperature Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, omelets in combi oven vs. emissivity in animal fat, 3·18 4·228 conventional oven, 4·95 of graybodies, 1·286 converting power units and, 1·273 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227 pasteurization of, 1·191, 4·226 of radiation, 1·285 de ning, 1·264 Steamed Blancmange, 4·296 FDA Food Code and, 1·185 Emmental cheese, Restructured e ciency and, 1·274–276 as surfactant emulsi ers, 4·226 pasteurized, parametric recipe for Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14 heat and, 1·263 temperature, and texture of, 4·76–77 cooking, 4·78 emulsi cation. See also emulsi ers; internal, 1·264–265 Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157 peeling with liquid nitrogen, how to, emulsions; emulsion-style sausages of phase changes by water, Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232 4·78 Bancro ’s rule on order for, 4·202 1·300–303 eggplant pickled mechanism of action, 4·200, 202, power and, 1·272–273 compressing, parametric recipe for, best bets for, 4·82 204–205 en eurage 3·390 parametric recipe for, 4·82 for thickening, 2·346, 4·19 for  avor extraction, 2·320 Eggplant Foam, 4·280 plated-dish recipes for, 5·209–221 emulsi ers. See also emulsi cation; solids as solvents in, 1·330 impregnating, parametric recipe for, poaching, physics of stirring pot emulsions technique of, 2·323 3·390 before, 2·67 characteristics of, 4·200 England. See also United Kingdom preserving, parametric recipe for, preserved in deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125 early gastronomy of, 1·8 3·348 best bets for, 4·82 eggs as, 4·74 history of French chefs in, 1·8 smoking, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 4·82 immiscible substances and, 1·332 medieval cuisine in, 1·12 3·362 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97 oils and, 4·13 English peas. See green peas Stu ed Smoky Braised Eggplant, safe cooking principles for, 1·194 surfactant, 4·216–217, 244 enoki mushrooms 5·99 salmonella contamination of, 1·117 emulsions, 4·196–239. See also Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu eggplant chips, parametric recipe for, as sausage binders, 3·223 emulsi cation; emulsi ers with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203 3·328 Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216 Black Bu er Emulsion, 5·157, 158 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe eggs, 4·83. See also duck eggs; egg gels; simpli ed cooking standards for, bu er in, 4·218–220 for, 3·289 egg whites; egg yolks; quail eggs 1·192 cheese as, 4·222–225 Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129 allergies to, 1·238 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100 common, 4·201 enteritis necroticans, 1·141 baked, two-stage, parametric recipe Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101 constructed creams and, 4·236–237 enthalpy, 1·300–301. See also latent heat for, 4·85 So -Boiled Egg and Garlic dairy, 4·218–229 of vaporization baked-good foams and, 4·245 Emulsion, 4·227 example recipes for, 4·219–221 envelope, of viruses, 1·152 boiled, 2·63 textures of, 4·76–77 de nition of, 4·13 environmental contamination, 1·116, Chawanmushi, 4·96 thickening with, 4·13 droplet sizes in, 4·206 117 cold-smoked, parametric recipe for, volumetric equivalents for amounts egg, 4·226 Enviro-Pak smoker, 2·147 4·100 of, 5·XLIV example recipes for, 4·226–229, enzymes cooked whole, 4·74–75 Eggs Benedict, 4·86 5·233 aging meats and, 3·39, 41 parametric recipe for, 4·78–79 eGullet.org, 1·73 failure of, 4·210–212 carbonation taste and, 2·465 Cromesquis, 3·340 Egypt, ancient foams vs., 4·249 clarifying juice or broth with, 2·352 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228 foie gras production in, 1·13, 3·136 G/W (gas-in-water). See foams cooking meat and seafood and, 3·76, Deviled Eggs, 4·81 food-related professions in, 1·7 HLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204 78–79 Dufresne’s obsession with, 1·67 Herodotus on beans in, 1·12 of immiscible substances, 1·332 as  ning agents, 2·358 Egg Blossom, 4·80 Horchata drinks in, 4·59 methods for, 4·206–213 freezing to halt action of, 3·136, 140 Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·88 locust bean gum used in, 4·124 microemulsions as, 4·205 fruit  avors and, 2·338 Eggs Benedict, 4·86 Einstein, Albert, 1·264 Modernist, 4·214–239 as gel coagulants, 4·70 emulsions of, 4·226–229 Ekman pumping, phenomenon of, 2·67 nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239 gelling agents from, 4·126 fat content of, 5·XLIII elasticity, gel selection and, 4·73 example recipes for, 4·238–239 juice extraction with, 2·335, 336

LXXII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 72 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE E

enzymes (continued) Esco er, Auguste (continued) espresso machines (continued) example recipes for acidi ers in liver, 3·138 chaudfroid and, 4·151 hand-operated vs. electric, 4·372 Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315 for marinating, 3·195 culinary rules and codes of, 1·5, 9, for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315 in plant foods, 3·282–284 19–20, 27 pressure pro ling and, technology example recipes for ba er-frying protein-spli ing, in crustaceans, on food presentation, 1·25 of, 4·400  e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336 3·28 introducing Modernist cuisine to, Synesso, 4·372, 374 Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335 thickening with, 4·13, 19 1·56–57 Espresso Vivace, 4·374, 396, 398, 399 Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337 transglutaminase as. See Activa; meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250 essences, aromatic, 2·318–331. See also example recipes for breading transglutaminase Sauce Allemande recipe, 4·88 extracting  avors Cromesquis, 3·340 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 3·357 stockmaking by, 2·288 in alcohol, best bets for, 2·326 Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11 epidemiology, nutritional, 1·218–220 escolar best bets for, 2·325 example recipes for broths epimysium, 3·6 about, 5·175 citrus oil, how to wash, 2·321 Bacon Dashi, 2·308 equilibrium cooking sous vide, parametric recipe en eurage and, 2·323 Baked Potato Broth, 2·309 drying with salt and sugar and, for, 3·102 extracting, 2·318, 320 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308 3·346 Escolar with Red Wine Bu er, 3·104 high quality, 1·250, 252 Ham Broth, 2·306 thermal, cooking eggs to, 4·74, 75 Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard, natural, safe handling of, 2·324 Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197 thermal energy transfer and, 1·266 5·175, 176 rotavap for distillation of, Laksa Broth, 2·307 equilibrium brining, 3·158 espresso, 4·372–390 2·384–391 Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307 how to, 3·170–171 art of milk and, 4·391–395 supercritical  uid extraction of, Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303 equilibrium cooking brewing temperature for, skill for 2·320 Tom Yum Broth, 2·309 in combi ovens, 2·167 choosing, 4·385 working with, 2·322 example recipes for carbonating in water bath at core temperature, consistency in, 4·396–403 essential oils. See also essences, aromatic Orange Soda, 2·472 2·243 cooking with, technique of, 4·371 for brining or curing, 3·158 Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11 equilibrium dry-curing, 3·165 crema on commercial uses for, 2·318 example recipes for centrifugal equilibrium relative humidity, 2·430 age of roasted co ee beans and, steam distillation of, 2·318, 320 evaporator, Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394 equilibrium vapor pressure, 1·320 4·361 Estragues, Sergi, 4·184 example recipes for centrifuging equilibrium wet-curing, 3·162, 165 carbon dioxide and, 4·384 ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); spirits; Centrifuged Carotene Bu er, 2·365, how to, 3·170–171 chemistry of, 4·388 speci c alcoholic beverages 5·185 equipment. See also tools; speci c types of crotchless porta lters for, ethics, of copying dishes, 1·71 Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367 equipment; speci c tools advantages of, 4·385 ethyl alcohol. See alcohol (ethanol); Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, for broiling, 2·20–22 deca einated co ee beans and, spirits; speci c alcoholic beverages 2·367 for carbonation, 2·286 4·363 ethylene gas, fruit ripening and, Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60 chilling, for water baths, 2·285 dosing of, 4·378, 380 3·283–284, 285 example recipes for compressed and deep-frying, 2·287 God shot of. See God shot E ore Majorana Foundation and impregnated fruits and vegetables dry-grinding, 2·401–402, 404 grinding beans for. See co ee beans, Center for Scienti c Culture, Clay Potatoes, 3·398 drying, 2·286 grinding for espresso; espresso 1·44–46, 65 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392 for foams, 4·258–261 grinders Europe. See also European Union; Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393 freeze-drying, 2·285 grooming porta lter for. See speci c countries Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399 juicing, 2·332–335 grooming espresso porta lters lack of meat-grading system in, 3·36, Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 laboratory, local laws in U.S. on, instant, 4·371 39 Pulled Mushroom, 3·396 1·94 invention of, history of, 4·372 European Union Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso o, milling, 2·401–402, 404. See also in Italy, sociology of, 4·374 on food safety, 1·182 3·397 colloid mills machines for making. See espresso food safety disclaimer rules of, Vegetable Coals, 3·395 pressure  ltration, 2·286 machines 1·178 Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285 sieving, 2·286 Northern Italian roast of beans for, trade dispute on food products and, example recipes for consommé smoking, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208 4·360 1·173 Apple Cider Consommé, 2·377 sous vide, 2·228–241 pod and capsule systems for, evaporation, 1·314–325. See also water Oxtail Consommé, 2·376 for home use, 1·73 technology of, 4·400 vapor Pistachio Consommé, 2·376 spray-drying, 2·285, 430 pressure pro ling and, technology adding cream to co ee and, 1·289 example recipes for constructed cheeses tenderizing, 2·286 of, 4·400 during baking, 2·103, 107  e American Cheese Slice, 4·224 used in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93 pulling the shot and, 4·384, 388 blowing on hot food and, 1·288 Cheddar Soup, 4·225 vacuum  ltration, 2·286, 356–357 common problems with, 4·389 boiling and, 1·315–319 Cheese in a Tube, 4·225 wet-grinding, 2·412–414 how to, 4·386–387 concentrating by, 2·379 Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225 erg, 1·272 serving temperature of, 4·364 de nition of, 1·314 example recipes for constructed creams Erice Conferences on Molecular and single, double, and triple shots of, with Genevac Rocket Evaporator, Hazelnut “Cream,” 4·236 Physical Gastronomy, 1·44–46, 65 evolution of, 4·379 2·391–395 Jus Gras, 4·237 erobertparker.com, 4·330 stream of, monitoring, 4·384, 387, humidity and, 1·319–321 Pistachio Gelato, 4·236 escabeche, Oyster Escabeche, 5·205, 388 meat tenderness lost in braising or example recipes for cooking innards 206 tamping and pot-roasting and, 2·98 Ankimo Torchon, 3·147 Escherich,  eodor, 1·112 evenly, how to, 4·382 as reduction, 4·11 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150 Escherichia coli, 1·116, 134, 137 reasons for, 4·383–384 steam and, 1·319 Foie Gras and Bu on Mushroom Escherichia coli O157:H7 taxonomy of, 4·393 vacuum Tart, 3·148 foodborne illnesses and, 1·118–119 tradition of, in cooking, 1·14 for concentrating  avor, 2·380 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice outbreak of 2006, politics of, 1·172 Espresso Co ee: Professional Techniques for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes, and Sea Le uce, 3·149 pathogenicity of, 1·132 (Schomer), 4·399 2·346 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango public health o cials on outbreak of, espresso con panna, 4·393 of wine, 4·330 Powder and , 3·151 1·169–170 espresso grinders vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215 example recipes for cooking plant foods temperature for reproduction of, how to use, 4·377 evaporative cooling under pressure 1·143, 144 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 humidity and, 1·319–320 Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302 wine marinade with oregano and, espresso machines oven temperatures and, 2·155 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301 1·145 automatic brewing option of, 4·384 evapotranspiration, winemaking and, Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303 Esco er, Auguste cleaning, how to, 4·397 4·329 Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, aspics of, 4·68 cutaway illustration of, 4·402–403 Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130 3·303, 5·181

INDEX LXXIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 73 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM E EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING SKIN

example recipes for cooking skin example recipes for egg emulsions example recipes for  uid gels (continued) example recipes for hydrocolloid gels Monk sh with Constructed Skin, Bacon Jam, 4·229 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180 (continued) 3·132 Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233 Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Pu ed Chicken Feet, 3·133 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228 Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181 Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159 Pu ed Cockscomb, 3·133 Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227 Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180 Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145 Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, So -Boiled Egg and Garlic Popcorn Pudding, 4·181 Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 3·134–135 Emulsion, 4·227 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183 4·156–157 example recipes for cooking with moist Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, example recipes for freeze-dried Hot Banana Gel, 4·166 air 4·228 vegetables Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166 Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227 Caesar Salad, 3·373 Hot Orange Gel, 4·167 Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180 example recipes for egg gels Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373, Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121 Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, Asparagus Royale, 4·94 5·261 Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172 2·181 for blended egg gels, 4·93–99 example recipes for freeze-drying Knot Foie, 4·144 example recipes for cures Cauli ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89 Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141 Bacon Chips with Bu erscotch, Century Egg, 4·83 2·454 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, Apple, and  yme, 3·189 Chawanmushi, 4·96 Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455 4·175 Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99 Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247 Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147 3·183 for cooked whole eggs, 4·80–81 Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454, Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146 Con t Cure Mix, 3·179 Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94 5·185 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174 Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Deviled Eggs, 4·81 example recipes for froths, airs, and Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Style,” 3·185 Egg Blossom, 4·80 bubbles Stock Veil, 4·168 Duck Leg Con t with Pommes Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90 Cappuccino Foam, 4·266 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155 Sarladaises, 3·178 Eggs Benedict, 4·86 Citrus Air, 4·265 Shell sh Custard, 4·162 Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181 French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131 Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95 Bubbles, 4·267 Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149 Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173 House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18 Olive Marmalade, 4·99 Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe o, Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43 Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88 Foam, 4·269 4·143 Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179 Pecorino with Tru e Honey on Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268 example recipes for hydrocolloid Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151 Cedar, 4·101 Oysters with Mignone e Air, 4·265 thickeners Sea Urchin Bo arga, 3·186 Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83 example recipes for fruit and vegetable BBQ Caramels, 4·62 Seafood Paper, 3·188 for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·83 chips Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97 Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330 4·54 example recipes for dairy and tofu gels Sauce Allemande, 4·88 Watermelon Chips, 3·328 Caramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121 for separated egg gels, 4·86–91 example recipes for fruit purees, Creamed Spinach, 4·55 Corn Custard, 4·122 Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101 Pistachio Puree, 2·427 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63 Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120 for smoked eggs, 4·101 example recipes for frying vegetables Edible Wrappers, 4·62 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, example recipes for emulsion-style Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321 Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118 sausages Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324 4·48 Firm Tofu, 4·112 Boudin Blanc, 3·243 Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57 Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119 Frankfurters, 3·242 Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324 Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59 Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107 Italian Sausage, 3·242 Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, House , 4·49, 5·67 Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105 example recipes for extracting  avor 3·325 Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57 Goat Milk Rico a, 4·108 with alcohol Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11 Lemon Strips, 4·61 Green Pea Yuba, 4·115 Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327 example recipes for grinding, milling, Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57 Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123 House Bi ers, 2·327 and pureeing Olive Oil Spread, 4·51 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and example recipes for fermented sausage Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403 Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Tru e Puree, 4·114 Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 Citrus Spice, 2·404 Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 Modernist Burrata, 4·109 Saucisson Sec, 3·247 Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405 Soy Milk, 4·58 Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111 example recipes for  sh and shell sh Indies Spice Blend, 2·403 Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59 Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122 sous vide Licorice Powder, 2·405 Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59 Salmon Custard, 4·119 Escolar with Red Wine Bu er, 3·104 Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125 Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49 Silken Tofu, 4·113 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Ras el Hanout, 2·405 Tru e Jus, 4·53 Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), Milk, 3·103 Romesco Sauce, 2·419 Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto 4·117, 5·55, 59 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 Salad, 4·53 example recipes for dairy emulsions Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107 example recipes for hot- and cold- White Grape Syrup, 4·52 Beet Flexicurd, 4·219 Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107 smoked meats and seafood XO Sauce, 4·52 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Steelhead Trout Con t with Fennel Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213 example recipes for infusing essences, Bu er, 4·220 Salad, 3·106 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321 Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Smoked Octopus, 3·215 example recipes for juicing Poached Lobster, 4·219 Broth, 3·105 example recipes for hydrocolloid gels Green Asparagus and Morels with Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219 example recipes for  avor infusion into Agar Carbonara, 4·161 Asparagus Jus, 2·341 example recipes for dehydrated fruits fats Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163 Melon Water, 2·340 and vegetables Curry Oil, 2·331 Cauli ower Panna Co a, 4·142 Meyer Lemonade, 2·340 Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368 Molasses Bu er, 2·331 Chili Pearls, 4·145 Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340 Mandarin Leather, 3·369 Shell sh Bu er, 2·329 for cold gels, 4·141–149 example recipes for jus Pineapple Glass, 3·370 Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330 Crimini in Amber, 4·154 Jus de la Presse, 2·347 Spinach Paper, 3·369 Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330 Dill Spheres, 4·130 Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25 Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371 example recipes for  avor-infused Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, Mushroom Jus, 2·348 example recipes for distilling liquids, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313 4·169 Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349 Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389 example recipes for  uid gels Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130 Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183 Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347 Cabbage Juice, 2·389 Hot and Cold Tea, 4·182 Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152 Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349

LXXIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 74 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM EXUDATE GUM E

example recipes for jus (continued) example recipes for pu ed snacks example recipes for starch thickeners example recipes for vegetable purees Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304 (continued) (continued) example recipes for light foams Cheese Pu s, 4·305 Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35 Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, Blood Orange Foam, 4·272 Pommes Sou ées, 4·306 Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29 5·126 Corn Foam, 4·273 Pu ed Chickpeas, 4·307 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5 Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276 Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197, 4·32 exoskeletons, of crustaceans, 3·28, 30 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 202  anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33 Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405 4·273 Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303 Turkey Wing, 4·33 experimental cooking, McGee on, Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, example recipes for riso os Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35 1·57–58 4·275 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso o, example recipes for stocks exponential growth, of bacteria, 1·142 Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277 3·308 Brown Beef Stock, 2·301 exsanguination, 3·32 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, Riso o Milanese, 3·306–307 Brown Veal Stock, 2·300 extenders, in sausage, 3·226 4·276 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken extracellular  uid, in raw foods, Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso o, Stock, 2·301 1·305–306 Sabayon, 4·274 3·308 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303 extracting  avors, 2·288–317. See also Whipped Cheese, 4·272 example recipes for Rocket Evaporator, example recipes for tartares and raw essences, aromatic example recipes for marinating Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394 meat acidi ers and, 2·314–316 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233 example recipes for , , Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66 with alcohol, 2·317 Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204 and fermenting Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65 example recipes for, 2·327 Fluke Ceviche, 3·203 Crispy Dosa, 3·355 Red-Onion Cream, 3·68 parametric recipe for, 2·326 Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68 co ee brewing and, 4·364 Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199 3·357 Scallop Tartare, 3·67 cryoextraction of wine and, 2·396 Lute sk, 3·200 Garlic Con t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81 example recipes for tender meats sous infused liquids, 2·310 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Kimchi, 3·352 vide measuring salinity and, 2·313 Marmalade, 3·202 Nukazuke, 3·354 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard pressure-cooking for, 2·291–295 Yakitori, 3·201 Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135 Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97 salt for seasoning and, 2·312 example recipes for microwaved Sauerkraut, 3·351 Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98 science of best tasting  avors and, vegetables Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353 example recipes for tender poultry sous 2·299 Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313 and Kumquat Marmalade, vide size of ingredients and, 2·290–291 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312 3·356 Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er, 3·100 sous vide technique of, 2·251 Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313 example recipes for set foams Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100 for stocks, 2·296–298 Tomato Powder, 3·312 Beet Meringue, 4·295 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion stocks as basis for sauces and, 2·288 example recipes for Modernist sausages Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291 and Water Chestnuts, 3·101 extraction percentage, brewing control Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300 example recipes for thick foams chart on, 4·366–367 Emulsi ed Sausage with Fat Gel, Green Olive Meringue, 4·298 Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193 extracts, in alcohol, best bets for using, 3·248 Green Tea Cake, 4·292 Barbecued Eel with Whipped 2·325 Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249 Gruyère Sou é, 4·301 Caramel, 4·283 exudate gum, 4·19 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248 Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293 Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281 Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282 example recipes for nanoemulsions 4·294 Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Eggplant Foam, 4·280 4·238 Chorizo Powder, 4·290 Horseradish Foam, 4·284 Ginger Cola, 4·239 Siphoned Sou é á la Lorraine, 4·297 Hot Bu er Foam, 4·283 example recipes for other emulsions Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299 Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284 Black Olive Puree, 4·230 Steamed Blancmange, 4·296 Uni with Whipped Tofu and Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234 Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292 Tapioca, 4·285 Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232 example recipes for smoked plant foods, Whipped Bu er, 4·286 Invincible Vinaigre e, 4·231 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Mustard Vinaigre e, 4·231 Sabayon, 3·363 Chips, 4·287 Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235 example recipes for spheri cation, 4·194 example recipes for tough meats and Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188 shell sh 4·233 Gruyère Spheres, 4·190 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions  ickened Oil, 4·230 Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193 and Ginger, 3·115 example recipes for Pacojet Melon Caviar, 4·189 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114 Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112 2·411 4·191 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut “Poached” Egg, 4·195 Veal Breast with Bulbous Cream, 2·411 Prosciu o and Melon “Raw Egg,” Vegetables, 3·111 Mozzarella Powder, 2·411 4·194 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113 Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, Shoulder with Shallot example recipes for pasta 4·192 and Orange Sauce, 3·110 Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383, example recipes for spray dryer example recipes for vacuum-set foams 5·253 Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, Aerated Chocolate, 4·313 Mac and Cheese, 3·387 2·443 Aerated Co ee Ice Cream, 4·312 Pad  ai, 3·385 Spray-Dried Bu ermilk, 2·443 Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311 Pasta Marinara, 3·386 example recipes for starch thickeners Aerated Gruyère, 4·312 Semolina Pasta, 3·382 Almond Polenta, 4·36 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311 Spaghe i Carbonara, 3·384 Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34 example recipes for vegetable purees example recipes for , Semolina Corn Pebbles, 4·36 Black Tru e Concentrate, 2·427, Pasta, 3·382 Edible Earth, 4·37 5·216 example recipes for potato purees, Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, Potato Puree, 3·296 Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34 2·426 Modernist Béchamel, 4·31

INDEX LXXV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 75 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM F FACULTATIVE ANAEROBIC BACTERIA

fats (continued) fennel seed extract, parametric recipe  n i n g rendering strategies for, 3·145 for, 2·326 agents for, 2·358–360 saturated. See also cholesterol fermentation with bentonite or polyclar, 2·352 F characteristics of, 1·222 bacterial role in, 1·133–134  no sherry, Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116 facultative anaerobic bacteria, 1·130, French cuisine and, 1·228 in co ee processing, 4·358  r e 138 in sausage, 3·223, 224–225 drying with warm air and, 2·433 dra and, 2·7 Fahrenheit 451 (Bradbury), 2·137 in seafood,  avor and, 3·87–88 example recipes for, 3·352, 357 for smoking, 3·208, 211 Fahrenheit temperature scale, 1·266, separating from cream, 2·366, 368 hydrocolloids from, 4·124  re bricks, as graybodies, 1·286 285 smoking, parametric recipe for, marinating and, 3·198 Firm Tofu, 4·112 Fair Trade co ee, 4·361 3·362 parametric recipe for, 3·348–349 Firmenich, 1·51 falling-rate period smoking meat or seafood and, 2·145 of plant foods, 3·344, 346 Fischler, Claude, 1·26 in baking, 2·107–108 subcutaneous in winemaking, 4·330  sh. See also speci c types of sh in deep-frying, 2·116, 117 cooking issues for, 3·118 fermented pickles, parametric recipe aging, 3·41 Faraday, Michael, 1·60 rendering, 3·122 for, 3·349 allergies to, 1·238 Farce Royale, 5·126, 132 as tough cut, science of, 3·83 fermented sausages anisakid infections and, 1·122–123 Farm Direct, Fair Trade co ee and, truite au bleu and, 3·40 best bets for, 3·244–245 biology of, 3·22–23 4·361 in tuna, 3·21 characteristics of, 3·222 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308 farmer’s cheese, parametric recipe for, volumetric equivalents for amounts example recipes for, 3·247 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 4·104 of, 5·XLIV history of, 3·246 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, farming, early civilization and in Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36 immune-compromised people and, 3·210 development of, 1·6–7 washing, for  avor extraction, 3·223 combi ovens vs. water bath cooking fascicles, 3·6, 8, 11 2·320–321 other ingredients in, 3·226–227 of, 2·167 Fasciola gigantica, 1·123 whipped cream and, 4·244 parametric recipe for, 3·244–245 cooking Fasciola hepatica, 1·123 fa y acids preparation of, 3·246, 250 on bone, 2·243 fascioliasis, 1·123 characteristics of, 1·222 Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167, 168 ideal temperature for, 3·89 fast food research on health and, 1·234 Fermento, for sausage, 3·227 cooking sous vide corporate control of, 1·22–24 faucet aspirators, 2·284, 356  ber, dietary best bets for, 3·102 development of, 1·20–22 faucet handles, personal hygiene and, colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217 example recipes for, 3·103–106 fast hot-spring eggs, parametric recipe 1·200 heart disease and, 1·216 parametric recipe for, 3·102–103 for cooking, 4·78 fava beans plants and, 3·267 curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172 fast hot-spring quail eggs, parametric cooking sous vide, parametric recipe research on colon cancer and, 1·217 cu ing, 3·52 recipe for cooking, 4·78 for, 3·292 Fick, Adolf, 2·290 dissolved oxygen for, 1·332–333 Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87 Fick’s law of di usion, 2·283, 290, 343 fat oxidation in, 2·201 fast-fermented sausages, 3·246 Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees,  ddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead FDA Food Code on, 1·170, 184, fast-twitch muscles 5·171, 173 Ferns, 5·113, 119 185–186, 187 fat content and, 3·18 FDA. See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food  g s Fish and Chips plated-dish recipe, in  sh, 3·21 and Drug Administration (FDA) compressing and impregnating, 5·143–145 in meat, 3·11–12 FDA Food Code parametric recipe for, 3·390  at,  lleting, 3·57 meat color and, 3·14–15 on cooking times Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137 freezing, 1·194, 3·37 in scallops, 3·26 for beef, 1·121 preserving, parametric recipe for, freshwater, tapeworms and, 1·124 slow-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12 for chicken, 1·180, 181 3·348 frozen, 3·37 fat, dietary for lamb, 1·121  llers, sausage, 3·226, 231 ike jime slaughtering of, 3·35, 37 bene cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234 for pork, 1·121, 179, 180  lm boiling, 1·316 Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus chemistry of, 1·233 speci c cooking times and  lm condensate, steaming and, 1·319, Foam, 4·269 cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227 temperatures and, 1·184–189 2·70 plated-dish recipes for, 5·141–177 colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214 on “danger zone,” 1·175–179  lms, edible, 4·6 safe cooking principles for, 1·191 heart disease and, 1·229–230 di erent foods and di erent rules of, best bets for, 4·60 Seafood Paper, 3·188 obesity and, 1·243 1·174–175 Edible Wrappers, 4·62 simpli ed freezing trans fat as, 1·230–231 egg pasteurization and, 1·185 parametric recipe for, 4·60 recommendations for, 1·192  e Fat Duck. See also Blumenthal, Salmonella time and temperature  lter paper skin of. See  sh skin Heston curves, 1·187 for co ee brewing, 4·368 slaughtering practices and, 3·35 food poisoning at, 1·155 on temperature but not time of for vacuum  ltration, 2·354 smoked, example recipe for, 3·212 food science and, 1·49–50 cooking, 1·174  ltering, 2·350–377 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303 plant food cooking at, 3·278 temperature rounding in, 1·174 with agar, 2·372–373 sous vide for, 2·198  e Fat Flush Plan (Gi leman), 1·248 on thermal death curves, 1·182–189 centrifuges for, 2·360–368 spoiled, risks of, 1·139 fats understanding, 1·182–189 for co ee brewing, 4·368 tender, cooking sous vide, around kidneys, 3·141 fecal contamination decanting wine and, 4·342, 343–344 parametric recipe for, 3·102 characteristics and cooking with, animal, 1·116–117  ning agents for, 2·358, 360 tough, example recipes for, 3·115 3·144 hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200 with gelatin ice, 2·368–371 trimmings, for searing  avor without cooking vegetables sous vide with, plant foods and, 1·197 juice extraction and, 2·239 presearing, 2·268 parametric recipe for, 3·292 fecal load, foodborne illnesses and, by oysters, 3·27 typical, fat content of, 5·XLIII dietary. See fat, dietary 1·115–116 pressure, 2·353–355 vacuum packing of, 2·212 extracting  avor with, 2·323 fecal-oral route, for foodborne separating emulsions with, 4·212 whole, reconstructing with Activa,  avor infusion into, parametric pathogens, 1·116 straining and sieving for, 2·351, 353 3·256 recipe for, 2·328–329 feline spongiform encephalopathy, strategies for, 2·352  sh eyes, in thickening, 4·20, 27  avor release and, 4·11 1·159 uses of, 2·351  sh  u, 1·124 as foam inhibitor, 4·257 femtograms, weight of bacteria in, 1·130 vacuum, 2·286, 4·352–358  sh roe. See also bo arga; caviar foams based on, 4·244, 247 fennel bulbs description of, 2·352, 358, cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, freeze-drying of, 2·447 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 4·353–354 3·210 frictional heat and, 3·230 for, 3·289 equipment for, 2·286, 356–357 Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399 grinding meat and, how to, 3·228 Steelhead Trout Con t with Fennel how to, 2·357 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, in meat, 3·15, 18 Salad, 3·106 of wine, 4·344 4·32  avor and, 3·87–88 Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327  sh sauce, Asian, 3·195

LXXVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 76 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES F

 sh skin  avors (continued)  uid gels (continued) foams (continued) cooking, 3·129–132 reusing deep-frying oil and, 2·123, parametric recipe for, 4·177–179 vacuum in ation for forming, 4·252, crispy cooking of, 3·130 124 quick-se ing, 4·179 254, 310–315 how to, 3·130 roasting co ee for, 4·358, 360–361 as shear-thinning liquids, 4·16 vacuum-drying and, 2·433 slime as key to, 3·129 of roux, cooked, 4·22 stock, premade, concentrated, 4·179 fog, steam compared to, 1·319, 2·71 sous vide, 3·131 salinity of, measuring, 2·313 as thickeners, 2·346, 4·19 foie gras pillows and, 3·131 of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,  uidized bed freezing, 1·307. See also Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu Salmon Skin Sou é, 5·161, 163 2·126 blast freezers with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203 Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154 savory, for French toast, 4·98  uke ( sh) Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311  sh stock, parametric recipe for, seasoning with salt and other Fluke Ceviche, 3·203 in ancient Egypt, 1·13, 3·136 2·296–297 enhancers of, 2·312 Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, Fizz-Giz system, 3·198, 207 size of ingredients and, 2·290–291  ukes (worms), 1·123–124 3·210  zziness. See also carbonation of smoke disease caused by, 1·120 cooking directly from frozen, 1·313 science of taste of, 2·465 capturing, 2·138, 3·211 liver, 1·123–124 cooking sous vide, 3·140 unwanted associations with, 2·464 chemistry of, 2·12 salmon-poisoning  uke, 1·124 parametric recipe for, 3·146 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183 smoke rings and, 2·145 foaming agents Cromesquis, 3·340  agella, of bacteria, 1·130 sous vide and, 2·251 in beer, 4·250, 254 Foie Gras à la Vapeur plated-dish Flame Firebox, Inverted, invention of, taste testing and. See taste testing categories of, 4·244 recipe, 5·109–111 3·208 thickener selection and, 4·14 foam stabilizers and, 4·257 Foie Gras and Bu on Mushroom Flaming Sorbet, memory and nostalgia water bath ho er than target gelatin as, 4·244–245 Tart, 3·148 in, 1·51 temperature and, 2·245 Modernist, 4·255 Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,  an, savory wine color and, 4·334–335, 338 traditional, 4·251 5·125, 128 parametric recipe for, 4·92 Flay, Bobby, 1·30 foam-whipping siphon. See whipping Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267, Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101  ipping food siphons 268, 269  ash boiling, 1·317 for sautéing, 2·46–47 foams, 4·240–315. See also foaming Foie Gras Parfait, 5·267, 268, 269  ash points, of frying oils, 2·126 for speed and evenness in cooking, agents Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152  ash-freezing, 1·306–307 2·38–39 airs as, best bets for, 4·264 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice  at sh,  lleting, 3·57  occulation, as emulsion failure, 4·210, antifoaming agents and. See and Sea Le uce, 3·149  atiron steak, seam cu ing of, 3·47 212 antifoaming agents Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176  avor-infused liquids Flojel 60, thickening with, parametric ba ers as, 3·316 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and example recipe for, 2·313 recipe for, 4·30 bubbles as, best bets for, 4·264 Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159 parametric recipe for, 2·310  o u r Cauli ower Foam, 5·281, 283 hepatic steatosis and, pathology of,  a v o r s converting grams to volumes for, emulsions vs., science of, 4·249 3·139 alcohol and, 2·317 5·XXXVI equipment for, 4·258–261 history of, 3·138 arti cial, food quality and, 1·250, gluten as bread  our-binder and, example recipes for, 4·266 Knot Foie, 4·144 252 3·376 faces and aspects of, 4·262–263 liquid nitrogen for freezing, best tasting, science of, 2·299 instant, thickening with, 4·22, 30 foaming agents and. See foaming 1·310–311 bi er, 5·226 milling of, 3·376 agents production of, 3·138, 140 changes in frozen foods, chemistry organic food movement perception on food surface, sublimation and, Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177 of, 2·261 of, 1·253 2·444 Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110 co ee brewing and, 4·364, 366–370 rice, 3·376 forming, 4·252–315 Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, concentrating, 2·379–397 rice  our pasta and, parametric Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212 4·233 of con t, 2·128, 129 recipe for, 3·381 froths as, best bets for, 4·264 Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98 cooking meat and seafood and, 3·84, sauces thickened by,  avor release geometry of, 4·246 Fonalleras, Josep Maria, 1·62 87–91 and, 4·11 Guinness beer and, 4·250–251 fond, 2·343. See also stocks of espresso, 4·384 for set foams, parametric recipe for, Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244 food. See also speci c foods and types of essences of. See essences, aromatic 4·288–289 inhibitors of, 4·244, 247, 257 foods extracting. See essences, aromatic; so wheat, 5·13, 77 light, 4·270–277 physics of, 1·292–335. See also water extracting  avors volumetric equivalents for amounts best bets for, 4·270 food allergies, 1·238–239 fat molecules and, 3·18 of, 5·XLIV example recipes for, 4·272–277 Food and Drug Administration (FDA). freeze  ltration and, 2·369 Wondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30 parametric recipe for, 4·270 See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food and freezing and, 1·304, 3·374 parametric recipe for, 4·30 mechanism of action of, 4·244–251 Drug Administration of gazpacho, 5·278 Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119 milk, for espresso, 4·391–395 food and health debates, 1·208–259 infusing with sous vide, 2·251  o w e r s Milk Foam, 5·31, 33 on additives, 1·252–254 infusion into fats Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172 Modernist, 4·255 on Atkins diet, 1·242 example recipes for, 2·329–331 Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368 Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231 on chemical processing of food, parametric recipe for, 2·328–329 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, pu ed snacks as, 4·302–309 1·250–252, 256 of Jell-O shot, 4·70 3·366 rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIII on cleansing toxins from the body, of juice Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Sa ron Honey Foam, 5·94 1·248 how to keep fresh taste of, 2·339 Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159 savory, Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 4·254 dietary systems and, 1·214–249 preserving fresh taste of, 2·338  uid gels, 4·176–184 Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216 dietary  ber, 1·214–217 of le over meats, chemistry of, 3·91 best bets for, 4·177 set. See set foams medical, 1·222–239 Maillard reaction and, 2·198, 3·89–91 characteristics of, 4·176 spreading use of, 1·73 nonmedical, 1·240–249 marinades and, 3·190 coarse, 4·179 stabilizers for testing disease risk and, 1·218–222 nitrites in bacon and, 3·165 cold foams as, 4·244–245 categories of, 4·244 on fat o , microbes and, 1·135 concentrated premade stock gels Modernist, 4·255 bene cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234 pH of, measuring, 2·316 and, 4·179 for traditional foams, 4·247 in bu er vs. margarine, 1·230–231 plant food cooking and, 3·273, 278 egg gels turned into, 4·74 types of, 4·257 chemistry of, 1·233 release of egg-based, 1·66 thick. See thick foams cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227 gel selection and, 4·73 example recipes for, 4·180–183 for thickening, 4·7, 19 heart disease and, 1·229–230 modern thickeners and, 4·5  ow of, 4·70 thickening and longevity of, 4·5 on French cuisine, 1·228 thickener selection and, 4·10–11, foam forming with, 4·255 Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65 on grilled meat and  sh, 1·221 15, 17 LA gellan gum concentrations for, 4·V traditional, 4·247 informed decisions in, 1·258–259

INDEX LXXVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 77 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM F FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES

food and health debates (continued) food safety (continued) food thickness (continued) Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300 on Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259 Hazard Analysis and Critical Control sous vide cooking times and, Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250 natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255 Point assessment and, 1·195 2·276–279 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373, on MSG, 1·213 holding temperature and, foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119 5·261, 263 on natural ingredients, 1·257 misconceptions about, 1·175–176 common misconceptions about, Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251 Modernist ingredients vs., hygiene and. See hygiene 1·117–119 freeze-drying, 2·444–455, 3·365 1·254–255 Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51 contamination routes for, 1·116–117 best bets for, 2·451 on natural toxins, 1·249 microbial contamination and, 1·105 contamination sources for, 1·113, characteristics of, 2·444–447 on organic food, 1·245–247 misconceptions about, 1·174–181 115–116 common problems with, 2·452 on raw food, 1·247–249 Modernist cuisine and, 1·255 cross-contamination and, 1·166 critical temperatures for, science of, on salt, 1·234, 236–238 Modernist Cuisine philosophy on, 1·191 diagnosis of, 1·114 2·453 scienti c analysis of, 1·210–212 multiple water baths at di erent infectious dose for, 1·115 equipment for, 2·285 on Spectrum diet, 1·242 temperatures and, 2·247–249 mechanical tenderizers and, 1·176 example recipes for, 2·454–455, on vegetarianism, 1·244 Myhrvold on writing about, 1·83 noroviruses and, 1·153–154 5·185, 247 on vitamin supplements, 1·235 natural essences and, 2·324 tracking, 1·110–111, 113 of fruits, parametric recipe for, 3·372 on weight loss diets, 1·240–241 natural pesticides and, 1·245 foodborne pathogens method for, 2·448–449, 450 on Weight Watchers, 1·241 organic foods and, 1·247 bacterial, 1·134–135 parametric recipe for, 2·450–452 on Zone diet, 1·242 pasteurization and, 2·250 common misconceptions about, physics of, 1·329 food hygiene. See also food safety pathogenic strains of E. coli and, 1·137 1·117–119 of plant foods, 3·344, 365 sous vide and, 2·199, 201 political factors in, 1·170–171, 173 microbes as, 1·106 prefreezing temperatures for, 2·451 food intolerances, 1·239 pork, misconceptions about, research on, food safety rules and, sublimation and, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365 food labels, 1·214, 239 1·179–180 1·166 of vegetables food mills, 2·400, 401. See also milling public health and rules on, 1·169–170 time to onset of symptoms a er example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261 ball, for dry-grinding, 2·401 rapid chilling and, 2·254 exposure to, 1·114 parametric recipe for, 3·372 colloid. See colloid mills raw shell sh and, 3·27–28 types of, 1·108–109 freezer burn, 1·308, 326 double-disc, 2·404 rules for forced convection freezer taste, 1·306 pin-and-disc, 2·404 complex origins of, 1·166–173 from air, heat transfer coe cient of, freeze-thaw stability, thickener roller, for dry-grinding, 2·404 scienti c simpli cation of, 1·283 selection and, 4·15 single-disc, for dry-grinding, 2·404 1·190–195 boundary layer and, 1·283 freezers food poisoning, 1·110, 138 sous vide and, 2·201 in CVap ovens, 2·159 extracellular  uid as liquid in, bacteria causing, 1·133 trends in, factors in uencing, 1·169 forced-convection ovens, 1·282–283 1·305–306 food preservation, 3·344–373. See also of uncured con t, 2·128 forced-convection steam ovens, 2·239 pros and cons of, 2·259 additives; preservatives; speci c water baths ho er than target forcemeat, 3·222 sublimation in, 1·326 preservation methods temperature and, 2·245 Activa TI for, 3·250 temperature control in, 1·205–207 anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138 worrisome signs when curing and, forceps, surgical, for Modernist kitchen, types of, 1·306–307 best bets for, 3·348 3·164 2·286 freezing. See also frozen foods; entries boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83 Food Safety and Inspection Service foreshots, in distillation, 2·384 beginning with cryo- chemicals for, 1·144–145 (FSIS) Forgione, Larry, 1·28, 29 anisakid infections and, 1·123 of eggs, best bets for, 4·82 on chicken cooking times, 1·181  e Forme of Cury (1390), 1·10 below glass-transition temperature, food science and, 1·48 on pork cooking times, 1·179 Fort, Ma hew, 1·50 1·306 by hunter-gatherers, 1·6 Salmonella reduction standards of, Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399 bread freshness and, 1·320 of plant foods, 3·344–373 1·168 Foucault, Léon, 2·191 carbonated liquids and, 2·464 refrigeration, freezing, and canning on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187 Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 1·278 cryogenic. See cryogenic freezing for, 2·75 food science Framingham Heart Study, 1·225, 231 of  sh, 1·194, 3·37 food presses, for juicing, 2·332, 334 development of, 1·42, 44–49 France. See also Bordeaux, France  ash, Birdseye and, 1·306–307 food processors history of, 1·48 agar in, history of cooking with, 4·128 food preservation and, 2·252 breaking down food with, 2·400 industrialization of food and aristocratic food in, 1·8 freeze-drying and. See freeze-drying for emulsifying sausage, 3·225, 231, development of, 1·24 cuisine of, heart disease and, 1·228 freezers and. See freezers 233 McGee on, 1·43 early gastronomy of, 1·9 of gel spheres, how to, 4·135 invention of, 2·412 food size. See also portions haute cuisine of, 1·19 juice extraction with, 2·239, 335, 337 wet-grinding with, 2·412 batch size and consistent baking and, McDonald’s in, 1·23–24 methods for, 1·306–311 food safety, 1·162–207 2·111, 112 medieval cuisine in, 1·12 physics of, 1·299 chemistry of nitrates, nitrites, and combi ovens vs. water bath cooking New International cuisine and, of plant foods, 3·344 nitrosamines and, 3·160 and, 2·167 1·29–30 to modify texture, 3·374 chicken and, misconceptions about, conduction and, 1·279 Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·24, 26–27 pressure-shi , physics of, 1·309 1·180–181 cook-chill sous vide method and, plated dishes in, 1·25 of raw foods considerations for, 1·101 2·256 seam cu ing in, 3·47 extracellular  uid and, 1·305–306 cross-contamination and. See cross- deep-frying and, 2·117 sous vide cooking in, 1·40, 41 FDA on time and temperature for, contamination drying with warm air and, 2·432 wine regulation in, 4·331–332 1·186 cultural factors in, 1·170–171, 173  avor extraction and, 2·288, 290–291 Francisella tularensis, 1·138 in salty brine, 2·260 “danger zone” and, 1·175–179 freeze-drying and, 2·446–447 frankfurters sous vide cooking and, 2·256–258 disclaimers and, rules of, 1·178 microwave cooking and, 2·183, 188, Frankfurter, 3·242 strategies for, 2·259 drying with warm air and, 2·432–433 189 parametric recipe for, 3·238–239 thawing and. See thawing egg garnishes on tartares and, 3·63 reducing. See particle size reduction seasonings in, 3·226 thickening sauces, jus, or glazes by, extracting and infusing  avors and, roasting and, 2·28, 32 free water 2·346 2·251 sautéing and, 2·44 as measure of dryness, 2·428 Trichinella infections and, 1·117–118, FDA Food Code on. See FDA Food sous vide cooking times and, rehydration and, 1·321 121–122 Code 2·276–279 Freedom Cooking System, 2·240 of water, 1·304–311 foodborne pathogens and, 1·115–116 stir-frying and, 2·54 freeze concentration, 2·379, 396, 397 hydrogen bonds and, 1·298 freeze-drying and, 2·447 in water bath ho er than  nal freeze dryers, 2·444, 448–449 physics of, 1·299 government bureaucracy and temperature, 2·246 freeze  ltration, with gels, 2·368–371 freezing point changes in, 1·173 food thickness Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, depression of convection baking and, 2·110 2·454 dissolved materials and, 1·304–305

LXXVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 78 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM GASES G

freezing point (continued) fruits (continued) FSIS. See U.S. Food Safety and freeze concentration and, 2·396 as acidi ers, 2·31, 314, 315 Inspection Service pacotizing and, 2·406 blanching, 2·269 full city roast stage, of co ee, 4·362 in phase diagrams, 1·302–303 carbonating, 1·69, 2·464, 469, 472 functional magnetic resonance imaging G  e French Cook (La Varenne, 1651), classi cation of, 3·262 (fMRI), during wine tastings, 4·340 Gagnaire, Pierre 1·8, 9 colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215 fusel alcohols (fusel “oils”), 2·384 Adrià and, 1·34 French cuisine. See France compressed, example recipes for, fusion cooking, development of, 1·29 Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46 French Culinary Institute. See Arnold, 3·392–394, 5·285 Green Olive Meringue recipe, 4·298 David; Norén, Nils cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294 hot spring eggs and, 4·75 French fries cooking sous vide Modernist cuisine and, 1·64 frozen, program cooking in combi parametric recipe for, 3·288, molecular gastronomy of  is and, oven of, 2·169 290–291 1·48 ultimate, how to make, 3·322 for purees, best bets for, 3·290 New International cuisine and, 1·30  e French Laundry, 1·38, 56, 68. See in sugar syrup, best bets for, 3·291 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality also Keller,  omas until tender, best bets for, 3·288 of, 1·27, 39–40 French onion soup, pressure-cooking, cu ing tools for frying, 3·326–327 Gajdusek, D. Carleton, 1·159 3·298 dehydrating Galileo, 1·107 French press co ee brewer, 4·368 best bets for, 3·366 Gamay Noir, Gouais Blanc and, 4·327 French roast stage, of co ee, 4·362 example recipes for, 3·369–370 game broth, parametric recipe for, French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93 parametric recipe for, 3·366–367 2·304–305 French toast, Chorizo French Toast, disassembling with liquid nitrogen gamma-ray irradiation, to kill bacteria, 4·98–99 of, 2·458, 462 1·149 frequencies, of microwaves, 2·182 FDA standards and, 1·189 ganache, Foie Gras and Hazelnut Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87 freeze-drying Ganache, 5·125, 128 Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107 best bets for, 3·372 Gand, Gale, 1·69 parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372 garagistes, 4·332 Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164 freshness control of, sous vide and, García, Dani Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees, 2·201 liquid nitrogen and, 1·64, 65 5·171, 173 gelling agents from, 4·126 Modernist cuisine and, 1·57 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger heat-shocking, 3·358–359 García del Moral, Raimundo Fricassee, 5·273, 275 hydrocolloids and, as thickeners, 4·19 on hepatic steatosis and foie gras, friction impregnated, example recipes for, 3·139 emulsi cation and, 4·13, 206 3·392–394, 5·285 liquid nitrogen and, 1·64 heat generated by, 1·274, 2·398, with peels, carbonating, 2·464 gargling liquid nitrogen, safety and, 4·206 plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–260, 2·466 meat grinding or chopping and, 277–279, 285–287 Le Gargouillou, 1·40, 3·294–295 3·230–231 preserving, best bets for, 3·348 garlic Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249 purees of Apicius on, 1·12 Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212 example recipes for, 2·427 blanching, 5·26 Fried Green Tomatoes, 5·67, 74 parametric recipe for, 2·424–425 Brown Bu er-Poached Green Garlic, Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75 raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294 5·229, 230 Frieden,  omas R., 1·237 ripening, 3·283–284 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe frigi-canning, 2·84–85 with sugar, brandied, fermentation for, 3·290, 292 fri atas, parametric recipe for, 4·92 and, 3·346 Dehydrated Garlic Chips, 5·43, 46 froths volumetric equivalents for amounts Garlic Con t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81 best bets for, 4·264 of, 5·XLIV Garlic Nougatine, 5·25, 29 parametric recipe for, 4·264 water content of, 5·XL–XLI Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85, Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 2·411 frying, 3·314–343 86 Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194 ba er-frying Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26 Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut example recipes for, 3·334–337 preserving, parametric recipe for, Cream, 2·411 parametric recipe for, 3·332–333 3·348 frozen foods. See also freezing with breading, 3·338–343 So -Boiled Egg and Garlic in conventional freezers, 1·305–306 deep-frying and. See deep-frying Emulsion, 4·227  avor changes in, chemistry of, 2·261 of fruits Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86 food quality and, 2·256–258 chips and, 3·328–329 Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9 organ meat freshness and, 3·136 cu ing tools for, 3·326–327 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82 seafood as, 1·182, 3·37 naked, 3·317, 321 wild garlic blossom and, 5·26 thawing vs. cooking directly from best bets for, 3·320 garum, 1·11, 3·195 freezer, 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263 chemistry of, 3·320 Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121, Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189, 191 coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319 122 frozen set foams, 4·245, 247 oils for, chemistry of, 2·126 gas burners, e ciency of, 1·274 Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 panfrying and. See panfrying gas griddles, 2·40 fruit chips shallow. See shallow frying gas grills example recipes for, 3·328–330 stir-frying and. See stir-frying charcoal grills vs., 2·10–11 fried, best bets for, 3·328 vacuum, 2·128 controlling heat in, 2·14 parametric recipe for, 3·328–329 of vegetables gas-in-water (G/W) emulsions, 4·243 fruit gels, hot chips and, 3·330–331 gas-in-oil (G/O) emulsions, 4·243 best bets for, 4·165 cu ing tools for, 3·326–327 gases. See also carbonation; evaporation; parametric recipe for, 4·164–165 example recipes for, 3·321, steam fruit meringue, cryofreezing of, 2·458 323–325, 5·11 heat convection in, 1·282 fruits. See also citrus fruits; fruit chips; potatoes as, 3·322–325 internal energy of, 1·264 fruit gels; speci c  uits frying pan, cutaway illustration of, physics of, 1·301 acidic juice for marinades from, 3·195 3·72–73

INDEX LXXIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 79 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM G GASES

gases (continued) gels, 4·64–195. See also gelling agents ghee, 4·213 glucose syrup DE 40 (continued) phase changes and thermal energy aerogels, history of, 4·72 Giardia intestinalis, 1·127–129 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 from, 1·290 alginate, Adrià’s use for, 1·39 Giardia lamblia, 1·128 for set foams, parametric recipe for, as solvents, 1·330, 332–333 casting giardiasis, 1·128 4·288–289 vapor vs., 1·300 how to, 4·132 Il Giardino d’Italia, 1·21, 31 thickening with, parametric recipe gastroenteritis, 1·114, 119 of thick sheets, how to, 4·134 ginger for, 4·47 Gastronorm hotel pans, as vacuum cellulose gum. See cellulose gums Crab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255 glue containers, 2·226–227 chemistry of, 4·71 Ginger Cola, 4·239 meat, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Gault, Henri cold infusion of, parametric recipe for, Activa Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24, 26–27 best bets for, 4·140–141 2·310 vegetable, 3·392 sous vide cooking and, 1·41 parametric recipe for, 4·140–141 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger gluten Gauthier, Alexandre, Modernist cuisine concentrated, stock solution of, Fricassee, 5·273, 275 as bread  our-binder, 3·376 and, 1·64 4·126 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger intolerance to, 1·239 Gayot, André, 1·24 considerations for, 4·73 Marmalade, 3·202 glycerin, for edible  lms, parametric gazpacho dairy, 4·102–123 XO Sauce, 4·52 recipe for, 4·60  avor of, 5·278 example recipes for, 4·105–111, 114 ginger extract, parametric recipe for, glycerol Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278 derivation of term, 4·67 2·326 centrifuging and, 2·368 GDL (glucono delta-lactone) egg. See egg gels Girardet, Frédy in milk, foam development and, gel formation with, 4·102 familiar, 4·67–69 Black Cod “Frédy Girardet” and, 4·392 product guide for, 4·II–III  rm coating, best bets for, 4·151 5·170–173 glycine, in scallops, 3·26 gel. See gels  uid. See  uid gels Nouvelle cuisine and individuality glycogen, in scallops, 3·26 gelatin. See also gelatinization formation process for, 4·70–72 of, 1·27 gnocchi ballistic, 4·68 hot. See hot gels poaching and broiling by, 2·24–25, Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119 Bloom strength and, 4·V hydrocolloid. See hydrocolloid gels 96, 97 Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123 characteristics of, 4·67–68 ion-coagulated, 4·124–127 GISSI-Prevenzione clinical trial, 1·232 G/O (gas-in-oil) emulsions, 4·243 as foaming agent, 4·244–245, 251 how to use, 4·129 Gi leman, Ann Louise, 1·248 Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95 freeze-drying and, 2·447 Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131 gizzard, characteristics and cooking of, goat cheese fruit juice and, 3·195 meat. See meat gels 3·141–142 Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105 gelling agents from, 4·69 modern, 4·126 glasses, edible, 4·6 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57 gels and molding dehydrating formula for, 3·367 goat’s milk with alcohol, 4·IV how to, 4·133 Pineapple Glass, 3·370 carotenoid pigments and, 3·92 parametric recipe for, 4·116–117 with suspended solids, how to, Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123 as emulsion, color of, 4·202 as hydrocolloid for thickening, 4·38 4·133 glass jars Goat Milk Rico a, 4·108 hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296 noodles and for canning, 2·77 goats, scrapie in, 1·157 ice  ltration and how to extrude, 4·138 heating requirements and duration God shot, of espresso for clarifying, 2·368–369 how to extrude with peristaltic for, 2·79 as absolute perfection, 4·357 for liquids and consommés, 2·352 pump, 4·139 packing food in, 2·78  rst, pleasure of, 4·375 technique for, 2·370–371 rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIII glass-ceramic stoves, 1·274 pod or capsule systems and, 4·400 interactions with other thickeners, Salt Gel, 5·5, 9 glass-transition temperature Goin, Suzanne, Achatz’s  rst meal at 4·44–45 seafood, 3·222 freeze-drying and, 1·329, 2·444, 446 elBulli and, 1·38 160 Bloom. See 160 Bloom gelatin Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109, freezing below, 1·306 Goldfarb, Will, 1·67 organic food movement perception 111 Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186 Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205 of, 1·253 spreading use of, 1·73 Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50 goose, cooking sous vide, parametric product guide for, 4·II–III tofu, 4·102–123 Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263 recipe for, 3·99 production process for, 1·256 example recipes for, 4·112–113, 115 Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32 gooseberries, as acidi er, 2·314 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 traditional, 4·69 glazes Gosset, William Sealy, 4·251 in skin, baking chicken upright and, vegetable, hot, parametric recipe for, Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19 Gouais Blanc grapes, Chardonnay and, 2·109 4·164–165 Bulgogi Glaze, 5·285, 287 4·327 as thermo-reversible gel, 4·70 generally recognized as safe (G S) Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, Gouda cheese as thickener, 4·5 ingredients, 1·254 221 Cheese in a Tube, 4·225 un avored, volumetric equivalents Genevac Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Mac and Cheese, 3·387 for amounts of, 5·XLIV example recipes for, 2·394 Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso o, whipped cream and, 4·248 genome, bacterial, sequencing of, 1·130 Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57 3·308 gelatinization genus, 1·112 Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14 Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56 of collagen, 3·78–79 geoduck clams Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63 Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57 common problems with, 4·27 biology of, 3·27 Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43, Goussault, Bruno cooking  oury potatoes and, 3·280 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 44 biography of, 1·43 holding at a temperature and, 2·247 for, 3·108 thickening strategies for, 2·346 sous vide cooking and, 1·41 of starches, 4·22 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266 vacuum evaporation for reducing, gra ing, grape varieties and, 4·326–327 temperature requirements for, 4·68 Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger, 2·346 Graham, Tim, 1·69 gelato, pistachio cream for, 4·214 Shiso, 5·197, 200 glazing Grahm, Randall, 4·345 gellan geometric growth, of bacteria, 1·142 as alternative to boiling, 2·70 grains as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 geometry. See also food size; food covered sautéing of vegetables and, converting grams to volumes for, fat incorporation into sausage with, thickness 2·58 5·XXXVI 3·225 of foam, 4·246 gloves, personal hygiene and, 1·200 seasonal mélanges with, 3·294 as  uid gel, 4·176 heat conduction in food and, 1·279 glucono delta-lactone (GDL) water content of, 5·XLI high-acyl. See high-acyl gellan geosmin gel formation with, 4·102 Gram, Hans Christian, 1·106 low-acyl. See low-acyl gellan in beets, 5·182 product guide for, 4·II–III gram-calorie, 1·272 natural sources for, 1·253 in freshwater  sh, 3·88 glucose powder, for edible  lms, Gram-negative bacteria, 1·106 gelling agents Gerber, Walter, 4·222 parametric recipe for, 4·60 Gram-positive bacteria, 1·106 hydrocolloids as, 4·67, 68, 124–175 Germany glucose syrup DE 40 la grande cuisine. See Esco er, Auguste modern, 4·126 early gastronomy of, 1·10 for bubbles and froths, parametric Grandin, Temple, biography of, 3·36 sources of, 4·68 sausage-making in, 3·223 recipe for, 4·264 granita, Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177

LXXX INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 80 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM G/W (GAS-IN-WATER) EMULSIONS G

grapefruit Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97 grinding (continued) gums. See also speci c types of gums as acidi er, 2·314 green peas to incorporate into sausage, hydrocolloid cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177 3·224–225  avor release by, 4·11 for, 3·291 Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367 mathematics of power for, 2·401 grades, brand names, and Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234 Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273, of meat proprietary blends of, 1·95 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 275 collagen mesh and, 3·76 natural sources for, 1·253 3·357 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe how to, 3·228 organic label for, 1·245 Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276 for, 3·292 for sausage, 3·220 scaling using baker’s percentages Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180 freezing to preserve  avor of, 3·374 strategies for, 2·400 and, 1·96–97 Pink Grapefruit Con t, 5·225, 226 Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87 tools for, 3·230–233 kori bustard’s consumption of, 1·253 grapefruit diet, 1·240–241 Green Pea Yuba, 4·115 wet. See wet-grinding as thickeners, 4·15 grapes. See also verjus Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410 grooming espresso porta lters thickening sauces, jus, or glazes carbonated, 2·464 pea consommé, parametric recipe dosing and, 4·380 with, 2·346 Cantu on, 2·469 for, 2·374–375 how to, 4·381 Gundel, Károly, 5·55 compressing, parametric recipe for, puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 methods for, 4·383 Guns, Germs, and Steel (Diamond), 3·390 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger grouse 3·268 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Fricassee, 5·273, 275 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe G/W (gas-in-water) emulsions, 4·243 for, 3·288, 291 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173 for, 3·99 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183 Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371 as substitute for pigeon, 5·132 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Green Star macerating juicers, 2·332 Growth Predictor, simulating bacterial 3·372 green tea growth, 1·147 heat-treating, parametric recipe for, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291 Gruyère cheese 3·359 Green Tea Cake, 4·292 Aerated Gruyère, 4·312 impregnating, parametric recipe for, infusion of, parametric recipe for, Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225 3·390 2·310 Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264 preserving, parametric recipe for, green tomatoes, Fried Green Tomatoes, Gruyère Sou é, 4·301 3·348 5·67, 74 Gruyère Spheres, 4·190 in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Greene, Gael, 1·61 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95 Grapes, Fresh , and Miso Greenland shark, chemistry of, 3·43 Whipped Cheese, 4·272 Powder, 5·197, 200 Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64 guar gum White Grape Syrup, 4·52 grey mullet bo arga, in Sea Urchin controlling syneresis with, 4·17 for wine, 4·319–320 Bo arga, 5·226 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 varieties of, 4·326–328 griddles fat incorporation into sausage with, grapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126 characteristics of, 2·40 3·225 G S (generally recognized as safe) for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 interactions with other thickeners, ingredients, 1·254 panfrying using, 2·37 4·44–45 Gras, Laurent, 1·69 searing using, 2·40–41 for light foams, parametric recipe graters, Microplane for sous vide cooking, 2·271 for, 4·270 Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388 shiny, physics of, 1·284 product guide for, 4·II–III cu ing vegetables for frying with, grilling, 2·6–17 production process for, 1·257 3·327 charcoal vs. brique es for, 2·12 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 gratin, Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265 charcoal vs. gas for, 2·10–11 thickening with, parametric recipe grating, cryogenic freezing for, 2·461 charcoal vs. wood for, 2·7 for, 4·46, 47 gravy chemistry of  avor and, 2·12 Guérard, Michel, 1·24, 26 Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102 cutaway illustration of, 2·8–9 pot-au-feu of, 5·49  anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33 dra and, 2·7 Le Guide Culinaire (Esco er, 1903), 1·9, Gray,  eodore, liquid nitrogen ice historical uses of, 1·16 19–20 cream and, 1·63–64 indirect, 2·13 Le Guide Michelin, star ratings of, 1·24 graybodies, absorption and emission by, sous vide cooking and, 2·270 guinea hen 1·286 grills. See also grilling cooking sous vide, parametric recipe greasiness, in deep-fried foods, charcoal for, 3·99, 108 avoiding, 2·125, 127 controlling heat in, 2·14 Guinea Hen Tagine plated-dish Great Atlantic & Paci c Tea Company, gas grills vs., 2·10–11 recipe, 5·135–139 1·21 gas Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137 Greece charcoal grills vs., 2·10–11 Guinness beer ancient, sausage-making in, 3·220 controlling heat in, 2·14 dra -beer-style head on, 4·250–251, early gastronomy in, 1·12–13 manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by, 254, 256 Green Asparagus and Morels with 1·272 Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145 Asparagus Jus, 2·341 as ovens, 2·13 gum arabic green beans radiant heat from, 1·277, 284 interactions with other thickeners, Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87 sweet spot of, 2·14–17 4·44–45 preserving, parametric recipe for, Grimes, William, 1·63 natural source for, 1·253, 257 3·348 grinders. See co ee grinders; espresso properties and uses of, 4·42–43 green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 3·351, grinders; meat grinders as surfactant emulsi er, 4·216–217 5·35 grinding. See also milling; co ee beans gum tragacanth Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85, 86 colloidal suspensions from, 4·12 interactions with other thickeners, Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 5·167, dry, equipment for, 2·401–402, 404, 4·44–45 169 407 product guide for, 4·II–III Green Olive Meringue, 4·298 example recipes for, 2·403–405, properties and uses of, 4·42–43 green olives 5·35, 125 thickening with, parametric recipe Green Olive Meringue, 4·298 of fat for, 4·46, 47 Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193 how to, 3·228 Olive Marmalade, 4·99

INDEX LXXXI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 81 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM H HA GELLAN

handheld smokers, 2·146 heat (continued) hepatic steatosis and foie gras, handheld whipping wands. See also e ciency and, 1·274 pathology of, 3·139 whisks of kitchen devices producing, 1·275 hepatitis A, 1·155 H foam forming with, 4·258 energy and, 1·263 herb oil, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, HA gellan. See high-acyl gellan to froth milk, 4·391 excessive, pressure cookers and, 2·330 HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65 2·291 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57 Control Point) assessment, basics of, Hanig, Dieter, 4·341 friction and. See friction Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383, 1·195 Hanner, Heinz, 1·70 fruit ripening and, 3·283–284 5·253 Haeberlin, Paul, 1·49 hard apple cider of fusion, 1·296 herbs hake, cooking sous vide, parametric freeze-concentrating to make latent, of vaporization. See latent antioxidants in, aging braises and recipe for, 3·102 applejack, 2·396 heat of vaporization pot roasts and, 2·98 Haldane, J. B. S., 2·288 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, lost, cutaway illustration of sources Apicius on, 1·11 halibut 4·276 for, 1·276 for brining or curing, 3·158 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe hard water in motion, 1·277–290 converting grams to volumes for, for, 3·102 dissolved minerals and, 1·335 oil changes due to, 2·115 5·XXXVIII Halibut Brandade, 5·151, 152 espresso-making and, 4·384 oven control of, 2·153 cryofreezing of, 2·458 Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 5·143, 144 hydration of ion-coagulated gels from pan bo om to handle, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Halibut Cheeks, 5·143, 144 with, 4·124 1·280–281 3·372 Halibut in Verbena Bubble, plant food cooking and, 3·278 physics of woks glowing hot, 1·287 microwaving, 3·310 4·156–157 hard-boiled eggs, parametric recipe for radiant. See radiation Romans’ use of, 1·11 Lute sk, 3·200 cooking, 4·78 shell sh  avors and, 3·27 in sausage, 3·226 Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151 hardwood charcoal, brique es vs., 2·12 speci c, de nition of, 1·266–267 seasonal mélanges with, 3·295 ham. See also jamón Ibérico; prosciu o Harvard School of Public Health, 1·230 spheri cation and, 4·184 volumetric equivalents for amounts Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, Harvell, Michael Lee, 3·207 steam distillation and, 2·320 of, 5·XLIV 3·183 Hawaiian Poke plated-dish recipe, of sublimation, 1·326 water content of, 5·XLI cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 5·175–177 temperature and, 1·264–271 Herman, Sergio, 1·70 3·210 Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113, testing oven controls for, 2·156–157 Hermé, Pierre, Onion tart and, 5·261 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 114–115 transfer of Herodotus, 1·12 for, 3·109 Hazard Analysis and Critical Control boiling and, 2·63 Hesse, Angelina, 4·128 Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84 Point (HACCP) assessment, 1·195 cold-shocking and, 2·254, 256 Hesse, Walther, 4·128 Ham Broth, 2·306 hazard ratio, nutritional studies and, computer simulation models of, Hesser, Amanda, 1·188 Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 1·219 1·282 heterocyclic amines (HCAs), 1·220 4·48 haze (weather phenomenon), 1·325 with conduction, 1·277–281. See hex. See sodium hexametaphosphate Spanish raw-cured, U.S. importation hazelnut oil also conduction hibiscus  owers, Foie Gras Torchon rules on, 1·173 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, with convection, 1·279, 281–283. with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, XO Sauce, 4·52 2·426 See also convection 4·158–159 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321 direction of, 1·265–266 High E ciency Particulate Air (HEPA) ham and cheese sausage, parametric hazelnut oil extract Fick’s law of di usion and, 2·290 ventilation hoods, 1·205 recipe for, 3·238–239 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321 Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84 high-acyl (HA) gellan ham broth parametric recipe for, 2·326 with radiation, 1·284–286 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, Ham Broth, 2·306 hazelnuts types of, 1·277 4·140 parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, in water bath at core temperature, for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 2·367 2·245 for, 4·165 4·48 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut in water bath ho er than target for hot gels, parametric recipe for, hamachi Nougatine, 5·267, 270 temperature, 2·245, 247 4·160 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, of vaporization, 1·296. See also latent as ion-based coagulant, 4·127 for, 3·102 5·125, 128 heat of evaporation product guide for, 4·II–III Hamachi Maltaise plated-dish Hazelnut “Cream,” 4·236 whipped cream and, 4·244, 248 properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72 recipe, 5·147–149 Romesco Sauce, 2·419 heat capacity high-density lipoproteins (HDL), Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149 Saucisson Sec, 3·247 of cookware, 1·278 1·226 Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 12 HCAs (heterocyclic amines), 1·220 of water, 1·298 high-methoxyl (HM) pectin Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14 HDL (high-density lipoproteins), 1·226 heat content, measuring, 1·300–301 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, hamburgers heads, in distillation, 2·384 heat equation 4·140 best bets for, 3·234 health. See food and health debates; calculating cooking times using, for edible  lms, parametric recipe as coarse “sausage,” 3·220, 222 foodborne illnesses; foodborne 1·279 for, 4·60 meat grinders for, 3·233 pathogens history of Fourier and, 1·278 as gelling agent, 4·68 parametric recipe for, 3·234–235 heart, characteristics and cooking of, heat  ux, from grills, 2·10 interactions with other thickeners, perfect, how to cook sous vide, 3·86 3·142 heat lability, of bacterial toxins, 1·135 4·44–45 Hancock, Jerry, liquid nitrogen ice heart disease heat transfer coe cient, 1·283 product guide for, 4·II–III cream and, 1·63 cholesterol and, 1·224–227 heat-gun browning, 2·275. See also blow properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72 hand washing dietary  ber and risk of, 1·216 torching and blowtorches high-pressure homogenizers proper methods for, 1·196–199 fat and, 1·229–230 Heather-Smoked , 5·233, 235 emulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209 UV lotion or powder and, 1·201 French cuisine and, 1·228 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille es, foam forming with, 4·252 handheld blenders weight loss diets and, 1·242 5·233, 235 high-temperature, short-time (HTST) dispersing thickeners with, 4·24 heart pa ern, for ca è la es, 4·395 heat-set Activa bonding, 3·252 pasteurization, 1·188 emulsifying with, 4·208, 209 hearts of palm, cooking sous vide, heat-shocking, of plant foods, 3·344, hijiki, 5·28 foam forming with, 4·252, 258, 259 parametric recipe for, 3·289 358–359 histamines hydration of ion-coagulated gels heat, 1·260–291. See also energy; heat-treated fruit, parametric recipe for, intolerance to, 1·239 with, 4·124 temperature 3·359 spoiled  sh and poisoning from, hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38 bacterial toxins and, 1·135 hemoglobin, role of, 3·12, 14 1·139 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 conduction of. See conduction Henderson, Fergus, 1·28, 3·136 Historic Lamb Curries plated-dish ultrasonic homogenizers as, 2·415 convection of. See convection entries HEPA (High E ciency Particulate Air) recipe, 5·89–99 wet-grinding with, 2·413 de ning, 1·264 ventilation hoods, 1·205

LXXXII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 82 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM HYGIENE H

history, 1·2–101 Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244 humidity (continued) hydrocolloid gels (continued) of evolution and revolution, 1·14–31 Hormel, Jay Catherwood, 1·21 relative. See relative humidity example recipes for, 4·130–131 of Modernist Cuisine, 1·82–91 horns, of ultrasonic homogenizers, 2·414 resting food and, 2·38 how to use, 4·129 of Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·92–101 horsepower, 1·272 in shallow frying, 2·127–128 from microbes, 4·126 of Modernist revolution, 1·52–77 horseradish, Horseradish Foam, 4·284 smoking and, 2·132, 141, 3·211 molding, 4·133 of origins of cooking, 1·6–13 Horseradish Foam, 4·284  avor of smoke and, 2·138 of  rm beads in cold oil, 4·136 of seeds of Modernism, 1·32–51 hospital food in Sweden, sous vide hot-smoking and, 2·148 of  rm droplets, 4·137 timeline of Modernist recipes and technology for, 2·252, 265 smoke from burning wood and, in spheres, 4·135 techniques and, 1·78–81 Hostess Brands, 1·76 2·143 from plants, 4·126 HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182 testing oven controls for, 2·156–157 fruits of, 4·126 values, 4·204 Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103 humidity-controlled mode, in modern marine, 4·126 HM pectin. See high-methoxyl pectin Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293 ovens, 2·156–157 tubers and roots of, 4·126 Hodgson, Robert, 4·338 Hot Banana Gel, 4·166 Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant spheri cation with, 4·184–195 Ho man, James, 4·396, 400 Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221 Hollandaise recipe, 4·228 best bets for, 4·187 hogs, roasting, 2·30–31 Hot Bu er Foam, 4·283 Humphries, Daniel, 4·375 example recipes for, 4·188–195 Hokkaido squash, cooking sous vide, Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227 Hungarian Beef Goulash plated-dish parametric recipe for, 4·186–187 parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290 hot foods, cooling recipe, 5·55–59 reverse, 4·187 holding food food safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256, hunter-gatherers, cooking by, 1·6 suspending solids in gelled spheres browned, in CVap water-vapor oven, 257 hydration. See also rehydration and, 4·187 2·159 phase changes and, 1·290 approaches to, 4·20 starches as, 4·126 at target temperature, 2·247–249 starchy plants and, 3·280, 282 of cellulosic gums, 4·127 hydrocolloid gums holding temperature. See also water hot gels of cooked roux, 4·22  avor release by, 4·11 baths best bets for, 4·160 for gelling, 4·71 grades, brand names, and “danger zones,” 1·175–176 examples of, 4·124 of hydrocolloids proprietary blends of, 1·95 extended and simpli ed 6.5D fruit for gelling, 4·124 natural sources for, 1·253 Salmonella reduction for, 1·192 best bets for, 4·165 for thickening, 4·38, 40 organic label for, 1·245 FDA Food Code time and parametric recipe for, 4·164–165 hydrocolloid gels, 3·250, 4·67, 68, scaling using baker’s percentages temperature for, 1·184 parametric recipe for, 4·160–161 124–175. See also hydrocolloids and, 1·96–97 food safety misconceptions about, Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166 casting hydrocolloids, 4·67, 68, 124–175. See 1·175–176 hot liquids, thickened, parametric how to, 4·132 also hydrocolloid gels; speci c types of maximum/minimum speci cations recipe for, 4·46–47 in thick sheets, 4·134 hydrocolloids for, 1·176 hot mi s cellulose gum, 4·126 enzymes as, 4·126 for meat, food safety and, 3·78 conduction in, 1·277, 280 best bets for, 4·171 health and safety of, 1·250 for pasteurization, 2·243, 3·233 silicone, 1·280 example recipes for, 4·172–175 hydration of, 4·40 of refrigerators, 2·257 Hot Orange Gel, 4·167 parametric recipe for, 4·170–171 interactions with other thickeners, Holiday Inn, Greenville, South hot plates, digitally controlled coating, 4·150–160 4·44–45 Carolina, sous vide cooking and, 1·41 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 best bets for, 4·151 ion reaction for spheri cation with, hollandaise for vacuum reduction, 2·380 example recipes for, 4·152–160 4·184 Bacon Jam, 4·229 Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121 parametric recipe for, 4·150–151 as natural ingredient, 4·38 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228 Hôtel Moderne, 1·25 cold, 4·140–149 product guide for, 4·II–V Eggs Benedict, 4·86 hot-packing best bets for, 4·140 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 4·228 boiling-water canning and, 2·77 example recipes for, 4·141–149 proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41 Homer, 1·13, 3·220 heating requirements and duration parametric recipe for, 4·140 sequestrants and, 4·129 hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 for, 2·79 dairy, formation of, 4·102 suppliers of, 4·40 homogenizers packing food in canning jars for, 2·78 extruding gel noodles and, 4·138 texture-hydrocolloid combinations, high-pressure hot-pickling tongue, 3·141 with peristaltic pump, 4·139 overview, 4·VII emulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209 hot-smoking, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361  lms and veils from, example recipes as thickeners, 4·13, 19, 38–55 foam forming with, 4·252 hot-spring eggs, 4·75 for, 4·168–169 example recipes for, 4·48–59, rotor-stator. See rotor-stator parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78  uid, 4·176–184 61–63, 5·67 homogenizers House Barbecue Sauce, 4·49, 5·67 best bets for, 4·177 use of term, 4·124 ultrahigh-pressure House Bi ers, 2·327 coarse, 4·179 hydrogen bonds, 1·296, 298, 314, 332 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18 with concentrated premade stock hydrolysis, 2·123, 247, 3·78–79, 118 for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400 How To. See list of Step-by-Step gels, 4·179 hydrophilic molecules, in surfactants, for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423 Procedures, LVI example recipes for, 4·180–184 4·202, 244 ultrasonic. See ultrasonic HPMC. See hydroxypropyl parametric recipe for, 4·177–179 hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) homogenizers methylcellulose quick-se ing, 4·179 values, 4·204 Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197 HTST (high-temperature, short-time) as thickeners, 4·19 hydrophobic molecules honey pasteurization, 1·188 fruit and vegetable, hot, 4·164–167 fats as, 4·199 BBQ Caramels, 4·62 humectants, moisture content of food best bets for, 4·165 in surfactants, 4·202, 244 Edible Bar Soap with Honey and, 2·428 example recipes for, 4·166–167, hydrosol, in essential oils, 2·318, 320 Bubbles, 4·267 humidity. See also combi ovens; 5·121 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose Sa ron Honey Foam, 5·94 moisture; water-vapor ovens parametric recipe for, 4·164–165 (HPMC) Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123 Activa and, 3·252 hot, 4·160–167 for cellulose gum gels, parametric honeydew melon, Compressed Melon baking and, 2·102, 111 best bets for, 4·160 recipe for, 4·170, 171 Terrine, 3·392 braising or pot-roasting in ovens example recipes for, 4·161–163 interactions with other thickeners, honshimeji mushrooms and, 2·98 parametric recipe for, 4·160–161 4·44–45 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, co ee grind and, 4·376, 378 hot fruit and vegetable product guide for, 4·IV–V 5·55, 58 in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117, best bets for, 4·165 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 118–119, 125 example recipes for, 4·166–167, hygiene, 1·196–207 for, 3·289 evaporation and, 1·319–321 5·121 food, sous vide and, 2·199, 201 French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93 fermented sausage-making and, 3·246 parametric recipe for, 4·164–165 ice cream bases and, 1·206 Hooke, Robert, 1·107 heat transfer and, 2·71 ion-coagulated, 4·124–127 kitchen, 1·200–205 Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59 ovens and, 2·153 personal, 1·196–200

INDEX LXXXIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 83 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM H HYGIENE

hygiene (continued) illnesses, foodborne. See foodborne infusion, in co ee brewing, 4·364 temperature control for, 1·205–207 illnesses; foodborne pathogens ingredients. See also speci c ingredients hygroscopic materials, food drying and, immediate service, sous vide and, converting grams to volumes for, 2·428 I 2·204–205 5·XXXIX–XL hyperdecanting wine, 4·343–344 ice immersion blenders. See handheld measurement of, 1·93 hypermodern cuisine, 1·57 crystals of. See ice crystals blenders weights and measures for, 1·94–95 hypertension, salt and, 1·234, 236–237 forms of, 1·304 immersion chillers, 2·238. See also water Modernist. See Modernist hypothesis, of scienti c theories, 1·218 freezing clear cubes of, 1·333 baths ingredients hysteresis, gel selection and, 4·73 heat conductivity of water vs., 1·299 immersion circulators, 2·230, 234, 235, size of. See food size as phase of water, 1·300 237 thickness of. See food thickness sublimation of, 1·326 immiscible substances, 1·331, 332 used in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93–94 ice beer, freeze concentration of, 2·396 immune system, food allergies and, injectors, for accelerating brining, ice cream 1·238–239 3·158, 166, 174–175 Aerated Co ee Ice Cream, 4·312 immune-compromised people, innards, 3·136–151 base for fermented or cured sausages and, blood as, 3·144 hygiene and, 1·196 3·223 bones as, 3·143–144 pasteurizing in sous vide bag, 1·206 impregnated fruits and vegetables cooking, 3·136–151 sous vide cook-chill of, 1·206 example recipes for, 3·392–401, 5·285 fat and, 3·144–145 FDA Food Code time and parametric recipe for, 3·390–391 gizzard as, 3·141–142 temperature for, 1·185, 187, 189 Impression, Sunrise (Monet), 1·17, 18 heart as, 3·142 freeze concentration of, 2·396 Impressionism intestines as freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, fading of, 1·72 characteristics and cooking of, 2·451 history of rough start for, 1·18–19 3·142–143 as frozen set foam, 4·247 Modernist avant-garde and, 1·52 for sausage encasement, 3·220 hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, as revolution in art, 1·16–18 kidney as, 3·141 4·127 Turner’s paintings and, 1·33 liver and foie gras and, 3·138–140 ice-restructuring compounds and, impulse sealers, 2·225, 284. See also marrow as, 3·143–144 1·305 vacuum packing O al Sous Vide, 3·146 liquid nitrogen and, 1·60–62, 311, inactivation, of viral pathogens, parametric recipe for cooking sous 2·458 1·152–153 vide, 3·146 pacotizing, 2·406, 407 INAO (Institut National des Appellations as sausage binder, 3·222 simpli ed recommendations for, d’Origine), 4·331 soaking in water or milk, 3·136 1·190 Incas, gastronomy of, 1·13 stomach as, 3·142–143 vacuum in ation for foaming with, index of refraction, 4·203 sweetbreads as. See sweetbreads 4·254 India, curries of, 3·196–197 tender, best bets for cooking sous ice crystals. See also sublimation Indies Spice Blend, 2·403 vide, 3·146 freeze concentration and, 2·396 individual quick freezing,  uidized bed tongue as, 3·140–141. See also speci c on frozen foods, 2·256–258 freezing for, 1·307 types of tongue thawing and, 2·262 induction burners, 1·274 tough, best bets for cooking sous pacotizing and, 2·407 infections vide, 3·146 ice wine, freeze concentration of, 2·396 astrovirus, 1·155 insoluble substances, 1·330 ice-brine baths intestinal. See also diarrhea; Insta Cure No. 1, 3·158, 161 freeze concentration and, 2·396 Salmonella spp. Insta Cure No. 2, 3·161 freezing food in, 1·310, 2·260 giardiasis as, 1·128 Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57 pros and cons of, 2·259 salmon-poisoning  uke and, 1·124 Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284 vacuum packing and freezing in, invasive, 1·110, 133, 134–135 Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172 2·258 noninvasive Institut National des Appellations ice-restructuring compounds, in  sh, bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, d’Origine (INAO), 4·331 1·305 138–141 institutional cooking, sous vide ice-water baths de nition of, 1·110 techniques for, 2·265 for cooling hot food, 1·206 infectious dose insulators, low conductivity of, 1·277 physics of not halting cooking with, determining, science of, 1·115 integrals, mathematical, de nition of, 2·254 foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116 2·230 pros and cons of, 2·255 in ammation, heart disease and, 1·227 intellectual property law, 1·70–72, 76 for quick chilling, 2·256 in ammatory diarrhea, 1·114 intensity of power, calculating grill for thawing, 2·263 in ation, vacuum, foam forming with, power and, 2·10

ID50 4·252, 254, 310 intermediate muscle  ber, 3·15 determining, science of, 1·115 informal recommendations, on food intermediate-density lipoprotein (IDL), foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116 safety, 1·165 1·226 ideal gas law, 1·282 infrared light internal energy, 1·264–265 Ideas in Food (blog), 1·66, 67. See also blackbodies and, 1·285 International Agency for Research on Kamozawa, Aki; Talbot, H. Alexander measuring, 1·287 Cancer, 1·220 Idiazábal cheese radiation and, 1·284 Internet Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123 infrared thermometers, 1·269, 2·286 as Modernist ingredients source, Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito infusing  avor. See also chamber sealers; 1·94 Stock Veil, 4·168 essences, aromatics Modernist innovation and, 1·59–60 IDL (intermediate-density lipoprotein), into fats INTERSALT study, 1·236, 237 1·226 example recipes for, 2·329–331 intestinal tract infections. See also ike jime method of slaughtering  sh, parametric recipe for, 2·328–329 diarrhea; Salmonella spp. 3·35, 37  avor-infused liquids and giardiasis as, 1·128 how to, 3·38 example recipe for, 2·313 salmon-poisoning  uke and, 1·124 Il Giardino d’Italia. See Boiardi, E ore parametric recipe for, 2·310 Iliad (Homer), 1·13 by cooking sous vide, 2·251

LXXXIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 84 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM JUS J

intestines juice (continued) jus (continued) characteristics and cooking of, fruit, for acidic marinades, 3·195 Tru e Jus, 4·53 3·142–143 grape. See grapes; verjus vacuum evaporation for reducing, for sausage encasement, 3·220 J from ground fruits or vegetables, 2·346 “Into the Vegetable Garden,” 3·294, 4·37 Jaccard tenderizers 3·376 intracellular  uid, in raw foods, 1·305 for accelerating brining, 3·158, 166 keeping fresh taste of, 2·338–339 invasive infections, 1·110, 133, 134–135 characteristics of, 3·51 juicers inverse-square law of light, 1·286 collagen mesh and, 3·76 for raw food, 3·269 Inverted Flame Firebox, invention of, hazards with, 1·176 types of, 2·332, 334 3·208 meat juiciness and, 3·79 juiciness inverters, for microwaves, 2·189 jacking, 2·379, 396, 397 acidic marinades and, 3·192–193 Invincible Vinaigre e, 4·231 jalapeño chips, parametric recipe for, cooking meat and seafood and, 3·79, ion-coagulated gels 3·328 83 characteristics of, 4·124–127 Jaleo, 1·67 of meat using, how to, 4·129 James I of Aragon, 5·244 fat content and, 3·18 ion-exchange  lter, for purifying water, Jamin. See Robuchon, Joël from young vs. older animals, 3·79, 1·335 jamón Ibérico 81 ionic bonds, 1·296 Ham Broth, 2·306 juicing, 2·332–349 ionic compounds, 1·330 Maillard reaction and, 3·173 chemistry and, 2·335 Ionnadis, John, 1·220 slicing, 3·50 with enzymes, 2·335, 336 ionotropic gelation, 4·184 U.S. importation rules on, 1·173 equipment for, 2·332–335 ions Japan example recipes for, 2·340–341 de nition of, 1·330 blocking tuna in, 3·54 by freezing, 2·335, 337 gel coagulation and, 4·68, 124–127 meat-grading system in, 3·36 with osmosis, 2·336 gel selection and, 4·73 seam cu ing in, 3·47 with pectinase from plants, 2·336 hard water and, 1·335, 3·278 tuna prices in, 3·52 reducing, in vacuum, 2·381 hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70 Japanese rotary vegetable slicer, 3·327 strategies for, 2·338, 339 hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40 Japanese slow-cooked eggs, parametric Julien, Honoré, 3·322 sodium, dissolved in water, 3·154 recipe for cooking, 4·78 Juneja, Vijay K., 1·180–181, 188, 190, 193 iota carrageenan Japanese stock, parametric recipe for,  e Jungle (Sinclair), 3·35 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 2·296–297 juniper berries 4·140 Japanese vegetable sheeter, 3·326 infusion of, parametric recipe for, controlling syneresis with, 4·17 Japanese yams, cooking sous vide, 2·310 for  uid gels, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 3·292 Juniper Brine, 5·35, 36 4·177 Jardin des Saveurs, 1·61 Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35, 36 hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, 4·127 jasmine essential oil, Apricot and junk food, obesity and, 1·23 interactions with other thickeners, Jasmine Puree, 5·171, 173 jus, 2·343–349 4·44–45 Jean Georges, 1·73 beef as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 129 Je erson,  omas, 3·322 Aged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6 product guide for, 4·II–III Jell-O shot, 4·70 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128 jelly, Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180 4·54 for spheri cation, parametric recipe Jenner, Edward, 2·85 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 for, 4·187 Jerusalem artichokes rare, parametric recipe for, for thick foams, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 2·344–345 for, 4·278–279 for, 3·289 Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349 irradiation. See radiation Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31 best bets for, 2·344–345 irreversible changes Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125, bromelain for preparation of, 3·195 measuring of, 1·268 131 characteristics of, 2·343 temperature and, 1·268, 270 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 chicken, brown, parametric recipe isomalt John Dory for, 2·344–345 for edible  lms, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe concentrating  avor of, 2·379 for, 4·60 for, 3·102 example recipes for, 2·346–349, 347, for set foams, parametric recipe for, in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149 5·25 4·288–289 Jones, Curt, 1·61, 72 Green Asparagus and Morels with for thick foams, parametric recipe Jones Soda Company, Turkey & Gravy Asparagus Jus, 2·341 for, 4·278–279 seasonal  avor, 4·33 Jus de la Presse, 2·347 Italian sausage joules, 1·272 Jus Gras, 4·237 Italian Sausage, 3·242 Joule, James Presco , 1·272 Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25 sweet, parametric recipe for, Journal of Food Protection, 1·181 mushroom 3·236–237 Journal of Wine Economics, 4·338 Mushroom Jus, 2·348 Italy juice. See also juicing parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 early gastronomy of, 1·10–11 apple. See apple cider/apple juice mussel, parametric recipe for, espresso in, sociological role of, 4·374 beef 2·344–345 medieval cuisine in, 1·12 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28–29 Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349 Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121, Slow Food movement of, 1·23 centrifuge-spun, 2·360 122 tradition and evolving cuisine of, chicken, parametric recipe for, reduced,  avor of roux vs., 4·11 1·14–15 2·344–345 Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 wine regulation in, 4·332 citrus, as acidi er, 2·314, 315 salmon, rare, parametric recipe for, Iuzzini, Johnny clarifying with Buon Vino pressure 2·344–345 Beet Flexicurd recipe, 4·219  lter, how to, 2·355 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347 Green Tea Cake recipe, 4·292 concentrating  avor of, 2·379 thickening strategies for, 2·346 innovations of, 1·73 frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446 Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133

INDEX LXXXV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 85 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM K KABOCHA SQUASH

Kennedy, Rob, liquid nitrogen ice Koch, Robert, 4·128 cream and, 1·63 Kocuria, 3·165 Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71 Ko mann, Pierre, 1·28 K Kentucky Fried Chicken franchise, kohlrabi, cooking sous vide, parametric L kabocha squash 1·22–23, 76, 2·120 recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292 La Broche, 1·57 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96 Kohman, E. F., 2·84 LA gellan. See low-acyl gellan Squash, 5·60, 65 keratin, in gizzards, 3·141 Kokonas, Nik, 1·68, 69 La Marzocco, 4·398, 400 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe ketchup kombu. See seaweed L.A. Provincial cuisine, Puck and, 1·29 for, 3·289, 290, 292 Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13 Komm, Anatoly, 1·70 La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26 Kæstur Hákarl, chemistry of, 3·43 as shear-thinning  uid, 4·6, 176 gum La Varenne, École de, 4·322–325 Kahan, Paul, Achatz’s  rst meal at ketosis, Atkins diet and, 1·242 interactions with other thickeners, La Varenne, François Pierre de elBulli and, 1·38 Keurig espresso machine, co ee 4·44–45 as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9 Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199 capsules for, 4·400 product guide for, 4·II–III French cuisine and, 1·19 Kamozawa, Aki Keys, Ancel properties and uses of, 4·42–43 innovations of, 1·20 Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312 on fat and heart disease, 1·219, thickening with, parametric recipe laboratory scales, for measuring on blanching sous vide, 3·293 224–225, 226 for, 4·46, 47 thickeners, 4·23 on browned solids from clari ed on Mediterranean diet, 1·232 kori bustard, 1·253 laboratory sieves bu er, 4·212 on saturated fats, 1·234 K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, 1·28, 29 for  ltering, 2·351, 352, 353 chicken skin glued to scallops by, Keys to Good Cooking (McGee), 1·43 Kra , James L., 1·24, 4·222 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 3·252 Kick’s law, 2·401 Kroc, Ray, 1·21–22, 31 lactase intolerance, 1·239 Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, kidneys kudzu starch, thickening with, 4·28 lactic acid, as acidi er, 2·314 3·392 characteristics of, 3·141 parametric recipe for, 4·28 Lactobacillus bulgaricus, 1·134 on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75 cooking, 3·141 Kumamoto oysters, in Shigoku Oyster Lactobacillus plantarum, 1·134 fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78 sous vide, parametric recipe for, with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Lactobacillus san anciscensis, 1·134  sh skin pillows of, 3·131 3·146 Miso Powder, 5·197, 200 Lactococcus lactis, 1·144 gel  ltration and, 2·369 kielbasa, parametric recipe for, kumquats lactose-free cream, centrifuging to Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 3·236–237 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe separate, 2·368 4·105 kilocalories, 1·272 for, 3·291 Ladenis, Nico, 1·62 Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67 kilowa s, 1·272 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, Nouvelle cuisine and individuality Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31 kimchi 3·356 of, 1·28 Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386 Kimchi, 3·352 Kunz, Gray L’Air du Temps, 1·70 Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396 Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285, pacotizing by, 2·407 Laiskonis, Michael smoked eggs by, 4·100 286 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Chili Pearls recipe, 4·145 Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, kimchi consommé, parametric recipe Veal Breast with Bulbous innovations of, 1·73 4·292 for, 2·374–375 Vegetables recipe, 3·111 Lake Nyos, Cameroon, carbon dioxide Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, Kinch, David kuri squash eruption from, 2·466 4·269 Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 3·66 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter laksa Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68 Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 3·213 Squash, 5·60, 65 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121 Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68 Corn Croque a recipe, 3·341 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Laksa Broth, 2·307 kappa carrageenan Corn Custard recipe, 4·122 for, 3·289, 290 l’Amador, 1·70 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, “Into the Vegetable Garden” and, Kurti, Nicholas lamb. See also sheep 4·140 3·294, 4·37 Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45 aging, 3·41 for  uid gels, parametric recipe for, Modernist cuisine and, 1·67 liquid nitrogen ice cream and, Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83 4·177 Strawberry Gazpacho recipe, 5·277 1·61–62, 65 cooking interactions with other thickeners, Turbot with Onion and Marrow kuru, as prion disease, 1·158 di erences for parts of, 3·18 4·44–45 Broth recipe, 3·105 Kusshi oysters, Poached Oysters, 5·233, sous vide, parametric recipe for, product guide for, 4·II–III king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled 236 3·96, 109 properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128 Mushroom, 3·396 times for, 1·121 Karabecue smoker, 3·208 Kistler, Samuel Stephens, 4·72 fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in, Karau, Bill, 3·208 kitchen, Modernist. See Modernist 3·12 Kasper, Lynn Rosse o, 3·306 kitchen Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25 , 2·143 kitchen hygiene, 1·200–205 leaner, using Activa for making, 3·255 Kaufman, C. W., 3·92 chef’s accessories for, 1·202–203 Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87 Kaufman, Galen, 2·469 contaminants and, 1·200 Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29 Keller,  omas disinfecting procedures for, 1·200, seam cu ing, 3·45 Achatz’s  rst meal at elBulli and, 204 how to, 3·46 1·38, 52 technology of UV powder and, 1·201 searing before vacuum packing of, Cauli ower Panna Co a recipe, kitchen management, Esco er’s system 2·268 4·142, 162 for, 1·20 lamb stock, parametric recipe for, Curry Oil recipe, 2·331 kitchen space, contamination and, 2·296–298 New International cuisine and, 1·200 lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide, 1·30–31 ki y li er, food safety and, 1·126 parametric recipe for, 3·146 oyster and pearls of, 5·205 kiwifruit lambda carrageenan Red-Onion Cream recipe, 3·68 compressing, parametric recipe for, interactions with other thickeners, Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 3·68 3·390 4·44–45 sous vide cooking and, 1·73 impregnating, parametric recipe for, product guide for, 4·II–III Tomato Powder recipe, 3·312 3·390 properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128 kelp, 5·28 introduction of, 1·15 thickening with, parametric recipe Kelp Company, 4·40 Klock, Gerd, freeze  ltration and, 2·369 for, 4·46, 47 Kelvin, Lord, 4·246 kminkowa, parametric recipe for, Lamblia intestinalis, 1·127–128 Kelvin Problem, 4·246 3·236–237 Landhotel Kirchdach, 1·70 Kelvin temperature scale, 1·266, 285–286 Knot Foie, 4·144 Lang, George, 5·55 Knox, Charles, 4·67 on Hungarian beef goulash, 5·55

LXXXVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 86 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM LOCUST BEAN GUM L

langoustines. See also prawns Leidenfrost e ect, 1·317, 2·464, 466 light foams, 4·270–277 liquid nitrogen (continued) biology of, 3·28 lemon verbena best bets for, 4·270 pros and cons of, 2·259 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe infusion of, parametric recipe for, example recipes for, 4·272–277 research laboratories’ use of, 2·456 for, 3·103 2·310 parametric recipe for, 4·270 safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467 Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, lignin, smoked food and, 2·134 sausage grinding and, 3·230 language, evolution of, 1·15 4·273 limes sources of, 2·458 lap cheong, parametric recipe for, lemon zest infusion, parametric recipe as acidi er, 2·314 viscosity of, 4·6 3·244–245 for, 2·310 Citrus Air, 4·265 Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193 L’Archestrate, 5·109 lemongrass infusion, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe liquid smoke lard, pork, chemistry of, 2·126 for, 2·310 for, 3·291 chemistry of, 2·149 larding, 3·84 lemons Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291 for cold-smoking, 3·361 Larousse Gastronomique (Montagné, as acidi er, 2·314 Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234 liquor. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci c 1938), 1·9 Citrus Air, 4·265 Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268 alcoholic beverages Las Vegas, Nevada, New International cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Lindt, Rudolph, conche machine and, distillation of, 2·384, 390 cuisine in, 1·30 for, 3·291 2·404 production process for, 1·256 lasagna, in oldest cookbook in English, Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, seasoning with, 2·317 1·10 Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276 3·103 Lirio, Jack, 1·26 laser (laserpicium), history of, 1·11–12 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180 linguine, from gel sheets, how to make, Lisińska, Grażyna, 3·322 lasers, for smoking, 1·69 Lemon Strips, 4·61 4·134 Listeria monocytogenes L’Astrance, 1·64 Meyer Lemonade, 2·340 links, sausage, 3·230, 240 as foodborne pathogen, 1·134 latent heat of vaporization Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275 Linnaeus, Carl (Linné, Carl von), 1·112, nisin and replication of, 1·145 in AccuTemp griddles, 2·41 Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135 266 refrigeration and, 2·257 as phase change, 1·290, 299–300 for set foams, parametric recipe for, lipids, 1·222. See also cholesterol; fats; oils replication limits of, 1·145 science of how liquid nitrogen boils 4·288–289 lipoproteins, low-density, 1·226, 227 wine marinade with oregano against, and, 2·457 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227 liquamen, 3·195, 5·121 1·145 steaming and, 2·70 lentils liquids. See also speci c liquids listeriosis, 1·134 Latin America Lentil Salad plated-dish recipe, for breading, 3·338 liver. See also speci c animals Horchata drinks in, 4·59 5·267–271 carbonation of, 2·468 characteristics of, 3·138 Incan and Mayan gastronomy of, 1·13 pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 clarifying with agar, 2·372–373 cooking sous vide, 3·146 wine innovation in, 4·332 Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271 cold, best bets for thickening, 4·46 liver  ukes, 1·123–124 la e (ca è la e) Lespinasse. See Kunz, Gray concentrating  avor of, 2·380 LM pectin. See low-methoxyl pectin as art form, 4·391–393 lethal dose, foodborne illnesses and, convection of heat in, 1·282, 283 LMA pectin, as gelling agent, 4·68 composition of, 4·393 1·115–116 converting grams to volumes for, lobster milk foam in, 4·244 l e u c e 5·XXXVII biology of, 3·28–30 pa erns in, how to make, 4·394–395 cold-smoking, 3·361 fermented, intolerance to, 1·239 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 lava rocks, in gas grills, 2·11 compressing, parametric recipe for,  ltering strategies for, 2·352 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe laws, U.S. See also U.S. Food and Drug 3·390 hot for, 3·103 Administration freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, best bets for thickening, 4·47 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, on advertising and label health 2·451, 3·372 physics of blowing on, 1·288 2·451 claims, 1·214 impregnating, parametric recipe for, internal energy, physics of, 1·301 Jus de la Presse, 2·347 on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391 3·390 Newtonian, 4·6 Lobster Américaine plated-dish on food safety, 1·165, 190 romaine phase changes and thermal energy recipe, 5·184–187 local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94 Caesar Salad, 3·373 from, 1·290 19th-Century-Style Lobster with LBG. See locust bean gum Smoked Le uce, 5·11, 15 phases of, mouthfeel and, 4·10 Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107 LD, foodborne illnesses and, water content of, 3·273, 276 rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIII Poached Lobster, 4·219 1·115–116 Leung, Alvin, Jr., 1·70 separating by centrifuging, 2·364 Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187 LDL (low-density lipoproteins), 1·226, libraries, rare-book, freeze-drying by, shear-thinning, 4·6 Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454, 227 2·444 sous vide technique of extracting, 5·185 Le Bernardin, 1·73 licorice 2·251 as seafood gel, 3·222 Le Calandre, 1·70 Licorice Powder, 2·405 thickening, 4·5 lobster mushrooms Le Postay, 1·70 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155 vacuum packing cooking sous vide, parametric recipe LEARN diet, 1·242 licorice root infusion, parametric recipe with chamber sealer, 2·219 for, 3·289 leathers for, 2·310 physics of, 2·215 Lobster Mushroom Con t, 5·185, 187 dehydrating formula for, 3·367 lids, for pot-roasting or braising pots, 2·96 viscosity of. See viscosity local food, current buzz on, 1·248 Mandarin Leather, 3·369 Liebrandt, Paul, 1·69 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220 locust bean gum (LBG) lecithin, soy Foie Gras Cherries recipe, 5·267 liquid nitrogen. See also speci c for cold emulsions, 5·187 de-oiled, for airs and froths, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and techniques using liquid nitrogen for cold gels, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 4·264 Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 4·158–159 acronym or abbreviation for, 2·456 4·140 product guide for, 4·II–III “Into the Vegetable Garden” and, Adrià and, 1·39 controlling syneresis with, 4·17 leeks 3·294 boiling, science of, 2·457 as foam stabilizer, 4·257 Charred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18 Life of Luxury (Archestratos of Gela, cooking with, 2·456, 458, 459 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Sicily), 1·12 cryogenic freezing using, 2·456 for, 4·165 for, 3·289 light culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70 for hot gels, parametric recipe, 4·160 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, cooking meat and seafood and, culinary strategies for using, 2·459 interactions with other thickeners, 3·366 3·93–94 freezing in vacuum of, 1·324 4·44–45 Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 infrared freezing using, 1·310–311, 2·258 natural source for, 1·253, 257 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 blackbodies and, 1·285 fruit disassembly with, 2·458, 462 product guide for, 4·II–III Lefeuvre, Clémence, 4·218 measuring, 1·287 ice cream freezing with, 1·311 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 legumes. See also speci c legumes radiation and, 1·284 meat grinder rinsing with, 3·221, separating bu erfat from cream converting grams to volumes for, speed of,  nding with microwave 224–225 with, 2·366, 368 5·XXXVI oven, 2·191 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 source of, 4·124 water content of, 5·XLI ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation pacotizing and, 2·407, 410 thickening with, parametric recipe Leidenfrost, Johann Go lob, 1·317 peeling eggs with, how to, 4·78 for, 4·46, 47

INDEX LXXXVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 87 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM L LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOT

Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141 lungo maltodextrin DE 8, for edible  lms, lotus root blonding phase and, 4·388 parametric recipe for, 4·60 Spot Prawn and Lotus Root evolution of, 4·379 maltodextrin DE 19, for set foams, Tempura with Smoked White Soy Lutaud, Christian, 1·34 M parametric recipe for, 4·288–289 Sauce, 5·197, 201 lute sk, 3·200 Mac and Cheese, 3·387 Maltrin, thickening with, 4·30 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, alkaline marinades for, 3·194 macchiato, 4·393 parametric recipe for, 4·30 5·167, 169 lychees mackerel Maltrin M100 lotus root chips, parametric recipe for, Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for light foams, parametric recipe 3·328 5·171, 173 for, 3·102 for, 4·270 L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49 Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, for set foams, parametric recipe for, lovage, Romans’ use of, 1·11 preserving, parametric recipe for, 4·175 4·288–289 Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57 3·348 macroclimates, wine and, 4·329 mandarins low-acyl (LA) gellan Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177 mad cow disease cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for cold gels, parametric recipe for, Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, politics of, 1·160–161 for, 3·291 4·140 4·233 prions and, 1·156 Mandarin Leather, 3·369 concentrations for  uid gels of, 4·V lyophilization, 2·444. See also freeze- sheep and, 1·157 Manet, Edouard, 1·18 for edible  lms, parametric recipe drying spread of, 1·159 mangoes for, 4·60 Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311 for  uid gels, parametric recipe for, Madrid Fusión, 1·59 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 4·177 magnesium, as alkali earth metal, 4·126 for, 3·288, 290 as foam stabilizer, 4·257 magnetic stirring bar dehydrating, parametric recipe for, for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe dispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25 3·366 for, 4·165 hydrating thickeners with, 4·26 Green Mango and Cashew Salad, for hot gels, parametric recipe for, hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38 5·167, 169 4·160 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 preserving, parametric recipe for, interactions with other thickeners, for vacuum reduction, 2·380 3·348 4·44–45 Maillard, Louis Camille, 2·343, 3·92 mannitol, Frozen White “Tru e,” as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127, Maillard reaction 3·400–401 129 baking and, 2·108 Manresa, 1·67 for light foams, parametric recipe browning onions and, 3·277 maple syrup for, 4·270 century eggs and, 4·83 grades of, 5·77 product guide for, 4·II–III co ee roasting and, 4·358, 360 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128 properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72 color changes in cooking meat and production process for, 1·256 for spheri cation, parametric recipe seafood and, 3·94 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128 for, 4·187 crustaceans and, 3·30, 87 Marangoni e ect, 4·353 for thick foams, parametric recipe deep-frying and, 2·122 marbling for, 4·278–279 dry-aging meat and, 3·41 tenderness and, 3·78 low-carbohydrate diets, 1·242  avors produced by, 2·198, 3·89–91 in Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36 low-density lipoproteins (LDL), 1·226, heterocyclic amines and, 1·220 Marchesi, Gualtiero 227 history of, 3·92 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·28 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248 meat cooking methods and, 2·343 Riso o Milanese recipe, 3·306–307 low-fat diets, 1·241 modern methods of braising and, Marcona Almond Bu er Paste, 5·281, low-methoxyl (LM) pectin 2·98 282 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, mollusks and, 3·87 Maremoto, 1·70 4·140 oil temperature and, 2·122 margarine, health risks of bu er vs., for edible  lms, parametric recipe pot-roasting and, 2·96 1·231 for, 4·60 pressure-cooking and, 3·298 Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191 as gelling agent, 4·68 ripening of cured meat or seafood Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger, interactions with thickeners, 4·44–45 and, 3·173 Shiso, 5·197, 200 as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127, searing before vacuum packing and, Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177 129 2·268 Marinated Spaghe i Squash, 5·147, 149 product guide for, 4·II–III smoking and, 2·141 marinating, 3·190–207 properties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72 steak frying and, 3·74 with acid, 3·192–193 spheri cation using, 4·184 stir-frying and, 2·48, 54 with alcohol, 3·195, 198 low-pressure drying, 2·433 sugar in sausage and, 3·226 with alkaline substances, 3·194–195 low-temperature, long-time (LTLT) vegetables and, 2·58 with curries, 3·196–197 pasteurization, 1·188 Mainstone, John, 4·9 of eggs, in vinegar, 4·75 low-temperature cooking. See also target Maison Troisgros, 1·73. See also with enzymes, 3·195 core temperature Troisgros, Pierre and Jean example recipes for, 3·199–206, domestic ovens and, 1·207 maitake mushrooms, Sautéed Maitake 5·233 of meat and seafood, 3·94–95 Mushroom, 5·11, 15 fermentation and, 3·198 sous vide technique and, 2·242 malaise, general, common pathogens marinades for thermometer accuracy and, causing, 1·114 acidic, for stomach and intestines, 1·206–207 Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 5·167, 168 3·143 low-temperature steam mode Malaysian Steamed Snapper plated-dish calcium chloride in, 3·76 in combi ovens, 2·167 recipe, 5·167–169 strategies for, 3·192 in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158, 159 malic acid, as acidi er, 2·314 marine-based hydrocolloids ovens using, 2·155 Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34 gelling agents from, 4·68, 126 LTLT (low-temperature, long-time) maltodextrin for kitchen use, 4·124 pasteurization, 1·188 as bulking agent with spray-dried thickening agents from, 4·5, 19 L20 (restaurant), 1·69 powders, 2·442 marmalade Lucas Carton, wine pairing at, 4·352 drying plant foods with, 3·365 Mushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217 Olive Marmalade, 4·99

LXXXVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 88 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM MELTING POINTS M

marmalade (continued) McGuckian, Ambrose T., 1·40 meats (continued) meats (continued) Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253, measures FDA time-and-temperature table for, trimmings from, for searing  avor 255 conversion factors for, 1·183, 185, 187 without presearing, 2·268 Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7 5·XXXVIII–XXXIX as  ning agent, 2·359, 360 vegetarian dishes simulating, 3·388 Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230 volume, converting, 5·XXXIX  avor and temperature of, 3·88–89 water content of, 5·XL “Marmite broth,” parametric recipe for, weights and, 1·94–95  avor of, Maillard reaction and, of young vs. older animals, juiciness 2·304–305 meats. See also speci c meats 3·89–91 and, 3·79, 81 marrow. See also veal marrowbones aging of, 3·39 freeze-drying, critical temperature meat band saw, for Modernist kitchen, characteristics and cooking of, 3·144 enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78 for, 2·446 2·285 Marshall, Agnes, 1·60, 64–65 holding at speci c temperature gassing, for color, chemistry of, 3·95 meat ba er, 3·222 Marx,  ierry, 1·64 and, 2·247–248 gels and. See meat gels Meat Cuts and Muscle Foods (Swatland), Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98 arti cial, 3·220. See also sausages glue and, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also 3·44 mascarpone cheese blanching, 2·269 Activa meat gels parametric recipe for, 4·56 brining, 3·152, 154–156, 158 grading, 3·35–36, 39 embedding meat in, 3·250 Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 best bets for, 3·172 grinding of emulsi ed sausages, 3·222 Mason, Sam equilibrium, how-to, 3·170–171 grinders for. See meat grinders myosin as, 3·70, 222–223 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37 speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173 tools for, 3·230–233 for sausage-making, 3·70, 222–223 chocolate water and, 2·374–375 chemicals as preservatives for, 1·144 grinding fat and, how to, 3·228 meat glue, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Modernist cuisine and, 1·67 chopping tools for, 3·230–233 ground Activa mass, conservation of, 1·331 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, converting grams to volume for, meat grinders Massachuse s Institute of Technology, 3·210 5·XLII bit-and-plate, 3·231, 233 Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for color of, 3·12, 14–15 for stock, 2·290 cutaway illustration of, 3·229 Excellence in Innovation and cooked, red droplets on, 3·14 juiciness of, age of animal and, 3·79, grinding plates for, typical aperture Creativity in Design of, 2·412 cooked and  nely chopped, 81 sizes of, 3·228 Massialot, François, French cuisine volumetric equivalents for le over, chemistry of  avor of, 3·91 liquid nitrogen rinse of, 3·221, and, 1·19 amounts of, 5·XLV marinating, 3·190–207 224–225 Master Cleanse, of toxins, 1·248 cooking, 3·70–115 meat glue and, 3·250–256 Meat Inspection Act, 3·35 master recipes, parametric recipes on bone, 2·243 muscle and meat slicers compared to, 1·97 braising, how to, 2·99 characteristics of, 3·6–19 Berkel, 3·44 masting, as synchronized fruit ripening, collagen role in, 3·80–81 converting into meat, 3·32–36, 39, for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 3·284 color and appearance of, 3·92–93 41–42 for very thin slices, 3·50 Mathematica (computer program), cooling strategies for, 2·256 punctured, hazards of, 1·176 meat tenderizers 1·63–64, 282 defects of cured meat, chemistry raw, 3·62–69 Jaccard. See Jaccard tenderizers Matsuhisa, Nobu of, 3·165 example recipes for, 3·65–68 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 Miso-Cured Black Cod recipe, 3·179  avor and, 3·84, 87–91 fat content of, 5·XLIII penetrating, hazards with, 1·176 New International cuisine and, 1·30 gelatin from, 4·67 red. See red meat meatballs, as coarse sausage, 3·222, 230 mushrooms, Bincho-Tan- grilling and. See grilling resting meatloaf, as coarse sausage, 3·222 Grilled Sea Cucumber Maitake ideal temperature for, 3·89 e ects of, 3·84 mechanical tenderizing, of meat, 3·50–51 Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203 innards of, 3·136–151 juices and, 2·105 food safety and, 1·191 Maurere, Wilhelm, 2·407 juiciness and, 3·79, 83 restructured foodborne illnesses and, 1·176 maw, 3·142–143 muscles and, 3·5 meat glue and, 3·250–256 muscle structure and, 3·10 Maximin, Jacques, 1·34 myth of searing to seal juices and, sausage as. See sausages medals, for wines, 4·338–339 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree 3·85 salting. See brining; curing medical dietary systems, 1·222–239 recipe, 2·426 optics of, 3·93–94 sausages. See sausages Mediterranean diet, 1·232, 241, 242 Maxwell, James Clerk, 1·265, 285 pot-roasting and, how to, 2·99 slaughtering practices for medlars, ble ing to ripen, 3·283 Mayans, gastronomy of, 1·13 red, in combi ovens vs. water baths, Grandin’s research on, 3·36 Lo mejor de la gastronomía, 1·59 mayonnaise 2·167–168 quality and, 3·32, 34–35 melanoidin pigments, in fruits and Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233 safe, principles for, 1·191 slicers for, 2·286, 3·44, 50 vegetables, 2·267 Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232 searing and, 2·58, 269, 3·85 smoking, 3·208–219 Meli a co ee brewer, 4·369 as emulsion, 4·199 simpli ed cooking standards for, best bets for, 3·210 melons separation and, 3·224 1·192 example recipe for, 3·213 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392 viscosity of, 4·204 skin and, 3·116–129, 133–135 ideal surface for, 3·211 compressing, parametric recipe for, Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227 sous vide, 2·201, 276–279 parametric recipe for, 3·210 3·390 low-fat, 4·226 sous vide, on bone vs.  llet, 2·207 sources for, 5·XXXIII cooking sous vide, parametric recipe MC. See methylcellulose stages from raw to cooked and, for stocks, 2·288 for, 3·288 MCC. See microcrystalline cellulose 3·76, 78–79 tartares and, 3·62–69 Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, McCracken, Brain, Modernist raviolo succulence and, 3·83–84 temperature and  avor of, 3·88–89 4·48 al’uovo of, 4·190 tenderness and, 3·70, 76 tender cuts of. See tender cuts of meat heat-treating, parametric recipe for, McCrady’s, 1·67, 83 trade-o s in, 3·94–95 tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78 3·359 McDonald’s, corporate control and white and gray droplets on surface tenderizing of impregnating, parametric recipe for, protests against, 1·22–23 during, 3·94 food safety and, 1·191 3·390 McGee, Harold cured, ripening of, 3·167, 173 foodborne illnesses and, 1·176 Melon Caviar, 4·189 biography of, 1·43 curing, 3·158–162, 165–166 mechanical, 1·176, 191, 3·10, 50–51 Melon Water, 2·340 Blumenthal and, 1·50 best bets for, 3·172 muscle structure and, 3·10 preserving, parametric recipe for, on cold gels, 4·140 speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173 tenderizers for, 1·176, 2·286. See 3·348 Erice Conference and, 1·44, 45 cu ing, 3·44–50 also Jaccard tenderizers Prosciu o and Melon “Raw Egg,” on experimental cooking, 1·57–58 tools for, 3·230–233 tenderness of, 3·10–11 4·194 on  ipping food during panfrying, dark. See dark meat; red meat Warner-Bratzler tenderometer Watermelon Chips, 3·328 2·38 extended and simpli ed 6.5D estimates of, 3·77 Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285 food science and, 1·5, 42, 44, 52 Salmonella reduction in, 1·193 tough cuts of. See tough cuts of meat Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285, 286 Mac and Cheese recipe, 3·387 fat, as tough cut, science of, 3·83 Trichinella contamination of, 1·117– melon chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328 on Modernist cuisine explosion, 1·46 fat component of, 3·15, 18 118, 120, 121, 122, 179 melting points. See also freezing point on searing meat to seal in juices, 3·85 of frying oils, 2·126

INDEX LXXXIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 89 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM M MEMBRANE-TYPE VACUUM PUMPS

membrane-type vacuum pumps microbes. See also bacteria; pathogens; microwaves mint, freeze-drying, parametric recipe  ltration with, 2·354, 357 viruses de nition of, 2·182 for, 3·372 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 contamination by freeze-drying and, 2·444 miracle berry, Nigerian, 2·465 vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381 bad odors from sealed bags and, Middle Ages, gastronomy of, 1·12 mirepoix, for stocks, 2·288 membranes, reverse osmosis through, 2·214 middle run, in distillation, 2·384 , Yakitori, 3·201 2·379, 396 shell sh foraging and, 3·27–28 Mie sca ering, in emulsions, 4·203 miscible substances, 1·331, 332 memory gelling agents from, 4·126 milk. See also milks Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179 Blumenthal’s use of, 1·51 as germs, 1·106–109 allergies to, 1·238 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87 García’s use of, 1·57 microbiology of, 1·106–109 almond, parametric recipe for, 4·56 miso-cured egg yolks, parametric recipe Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70 Pasteur on food spoilage and, 2·75 bu er from, 3·92 for, 4·82 Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68 microbial-based hydrocolloids, as Cappuccino Foam, 4·266 mixers Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe, thickeners, 4·19 carotenoid pigments and, 3·92 foam forming with, 4·258 3·340 microbiology, 1·102–161 Cauli ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 merguez, parametric recipe for, of foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119 chocolate, as colloidal suspension, MKS (meter, kilogram, second) units, 3·236–237 of foodborne pathogens, 1·108–109 4·176 1·272 of microbes as germs, 1·106–109 chufa. See chufa milk mock dishes, types of, 3·388 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, microscopes for study of, 1·107 colors of, 3·92, 4·202 Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394 165 of parasitic worms, 1·120–125 cow, allergies to, 1·238 modern ovens. See also combi ovens; Green Olive Meringue, 4·298 of prions, 1·156–161 dairy-based emulsions and, 4·218 convection ovens; CVap water-vapor as set foam, 4·247 of protists, 1·126–129 colors of, 4·202 ovens; microwave ovens; ovens; meta-analysis scienti c names in, 1·112 fat content and steaming of, 4·391, water-vapor ovens de nition of, 1·216 of viruses, 1·152–156 392 heat and humidity control testing in, of dietary fat and heart disease, microclimates, wine and, 4·329 foaming agent in, 4·251 2·156–157 1·230 microcrystalline cellulose (MCC) fresh, frigi-canning and, 2·84 improvement proposals for, 2·167 randomized trials vs., 1·219 interactions with other thickeners, goat temperature control by, 2·112 of salt and hypertension, 1·236, 237 4·44–45 carotenoid pigments and, 3·92 ModernCure, for brining or curing, of statins and heart disease, 1·227 product guide for, 4·IV–V color of, 4·202 3·158 metal searing bars, in gas grills, 2·11 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 Goat Milk Rico a, 4·108 Modernism. See also Modernist cuisine metallic bonding, 1·296 as thickener, 4·12–13 hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125 as megatrend in culture, 1·17–18 metals thickening with, parametric recipe Milk Foam, 5·31, 33 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·52, 56 alkali earth, 4·126 for, 4·47 Milk Skin, 5·205 as revolution in culture, 1·52 conductivity of, 1·277 microemulsions, science of, 4·205 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Modernist Béchamel, 4·31 metastability Micrographia (Hooke), 1·107 Tru e Puree, 4·114 Modernist Burrata, 4·109 of emulsions, 4·199 microorganisms, 1·106. See also as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199 Modernist cuisine of foams, 4·248 bacteria; microbes; viruses parametric recipe for, 4·56 Achatz and, 1·68 methanol, as ethanol distillation microoxygenation (MOX), in powdered, in fermented sausage, Adrià, elBulli, and, 1·33–40 by-product, 2·384 viticulture, 4·330–331 3·246 in America, 1·67 Methocel E4M, for edible  lms, Microplane graters soy Blumenthal,  e Fat Duck, and, parametric recipe for, 4·60 Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388 Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 1·49–51 Methocel SGA 150, for edible  lms, cu ing vegetables for frying with, Soy Milk, 4·58 Capel and, 1·59 parametric recipe for, 4·60 3·327 steaming in Chicago, 1·69 methylcellulose (MC) microporous  ltration, 1·335 for espresso, 4·391–395 copying in, history of, 1·71 for cellulose gum gels, parametric microscopes, history and parts of, 1·107 how to, 4·390 critical responses to, history of, recipe for, 4·170, 171 microwave ovens Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11 1·62–63 for  ltering or clarifying, 2·352 characteristics of, 2·182–183, 189 Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59 cryogens in, 1·60–66, 68, 70 as  ning agent, 2·359, 360 cutaway illustration of, 2·186–187 viscosity of, 4·6 forms of dishes in, 1·54–55 foam, 4·255 drying in, 2·430 milk curd, basic, parametric recipe for, future of, 1·72–73, 76–77 gels, best bets for, 4·171 FDA rules on, 1·189 4·104 history of, 1·32–51 interactions with other thickeners, heating small foods slowly in, Milk Foam, 5·31, 33 ideas and owners in, 1·70–72 4·44–45 physics of, 2·188 milk frother. See also Aerola e milk Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67 product guide for, 4·IV–V invention of, 1·22, 2·182–183 frother ingredients for. See Modernist properties and uses of, 4·42–43 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 for espresso, 4·391 ingredients Santamaria on, 1·258 moisture content of food and, 2·153 foam forming with, 4·258, 260 kitchen for. See Modernist kitchen thermo-reversible gels from, 4·127 myths and reality of, physics of, milk shake machine novelty as cult in, 1·58–60 methylcellulose A4C, for thick foams, 2·190 foam forming with, 4·258, 259 Pralus and, 1·42 parametric recipe for, 4·278–279 parts of, 2·184 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 principles of, 1·56 methylcellulose E4M, for hot fruit gels, plant food cooking in, 3·310–313 Milk Skin, 5·205 as revolution, 1·5, 52–77 parametric recipe for, 4·165 radiant heat from, 1·277 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Roca and, 1·58 methylcellulose F50, for set foams, safety, 2·190 Tru e Puree, 4·114 Santos and, 1·59 parametric recipe for, 4·288–289 speed of light in, physics of  nding, milks, making, best bets for, 4·56 science in the kitchen and, 1·42, metmyoglobin, 3·93 2·191 Millau, Christian, 1·24, 26 44–49 metric units, converting energy and strategies for using, 2·185 milling. See also grinding; pureeing seeds of, 1·32–51 power units using, 1·272–273 Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43 equipment for, 2·401–402, 404. See sous vide at home and, 1·73 Meyer Lemonade, 2·340 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, also colloid mills in Spain, history of, 1·57 miang kham, 5·189 4·294 example recipes for, 2·419, 3·377 spread of, 1·38–40 Miang Paste, 5·189, 190 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and frozen nuts, 3·374 Steingarten and, 1·65 Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191 Ginger, 3·115 of plant foods, 3·376–377 timeline of recipes and techniques micelle, 4·199 microwaved vegetables strategies for, 2·400 in, 1·78–81 Michelin Guide, 1·24, 26 example recipes for, 3·312–313 minerals, dissolved. See also dissolved trade secrets and, history of, 1·76 Micri, 4·29 parametric recipe for, 3·311 materials utensils and plating styles in, 1·74–75 microaerophilic bacteria, 1·130 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312 hard water and, 1·335 vacuum packing and, 1·40–42 Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot minibar (restaurant), 1·63, 67 wine pairing and, 4·352 Tops, 5·49, 53 Minnesota Coronary Survey, 1·229, 230 around the world, 1·70

XC INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 90 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM MYOTOMES M

Modernist Cuisine mold Mound Builders, gastronomy of, 1·13 mushrooms (continued) baker’s percentage in, 1·95–97 on canned food, sterilization process mouthfeel Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, credit for recipes in, 1·100–101 and, 2·80 gel selection and, 4·73 4·275 guide to, 1·89–91 on ripening cured meat or seafood, gelling with hydrocolloids and, Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14 ingredients and equipment in, 3·173 4·124 Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13 1·93–94 molded spheri cation, 4·184 importance of, 4·6, 10 Mushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217 photographs in, 1·88–89 molds, silicone, for Modernist kitchen, oils for deep-frying and, 2·126 Mushroom Omelet plated-dish recipes in, 1·92–101 2·286 thickeners and, 4·12–13, 15, 17 recipe, 5·215–217 types of, 1·97–100 Molecular and Physical Gastronomy thickening and, 4·5 Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 weights and measures in, 1·94–95 conference, Erice, Italy (1992), MOX (microoxygenation), in Mushroom Swiss Burger plated-dish writing and producing, story of, 1·44–46, 65 viticulture, 4·330–331 recipe, 5·11–15 1·82–91 molecular gastronomy mozoku, 5·28 preserving, parametric recipe for, Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337 critics on mad scientists and, 1·62 mozzarella cheese 3·348 Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259 goals of, historical shi s in, 1·47 Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111 puree of as additives, perceptions of, as Modernist cooking, 1·46–47 Mozzarella Powder, 2·411 Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 1·252–254 origins of, 1·44 MSG () parametric recipe for, 2·425 chemical processes for, 1·250–252  is on, 1·46 for brines and cures, 3·160 Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93 chemical processing of common mollusks. See also clams; mussels; safety of, 1·213 muslin sheets, for  ltering, 2·351 foods in, 1·256 octopus; oysters; scallops; snails; mucilage, of co ee beans, 4·358 mussel jus, parametric recipe for, as chemistry, health concerns about, squid Mugaritz, 1·57. See also Aduriz, Andoni 2·344–345 1·212 biology of, 3·24–26 Luis mussels informed decisions about, 1·258–259 Maillard reaction of, 3·87 Mughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92 biology of, 3·26, 27 natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255 Monell Chemical Senses Center, 4·335 mule duck, foie gras production in, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe new naturals for, 1·257 Monet, Claude, 1·17, 18 3·138 for, 3·103 Santamaria’s claims about, 1·258 m o n k  s h Multiple Risk Factor Intervention Trial, Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, sources for, 5·XXXIII cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 1·229 4·191 Modernist kitchen, 2·280–473 for, 3·102 multistep deep-frying, 2·122–123 Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154 concentrates in, 2·378–397 Monk sh with Constructed Skin, mung beans, pu ed, parametric recipe Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346 cryogenic freezing and carbonation 3·132 for, 4·302 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot in, 2·456–473 Monk sh with Mediterranean Munster cheese, Alsatian Munster Sabayon, 4·274 drying in, 2·428–455 Flavors plated-dish recipe, Sausage, 5·35, 39 mustard equipment for, sources of, 5·151–155 Murata, Yoshihiro Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37 5·XXX–XXXII in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149 Hon Dashi recipe, 2·306 Mustard Vinaigre e, 4·231 extracting  avors in, 2·288–317 Sous Vide Monk sh Pavé, 5·151, 155 Peanut “Tofu” and and, 4·122 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,  ltering in, 2·350–377 uniform musculature of, 3·53 Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, 5·281, 283 infusing essences in, 2·318–331 monk sh liver, Ankimo Torchon, 3·147 Sesame, Ponzu recipe, 5·197, 202 mustard seeds, preserving, parametric juicing in, 2·332–349 monoglycerides, as surfactant muria, 5·121 recipe for, 3·348 particle size reduction in, 2·398–427 emulsi ers, 4·216–217 Muscat grapes Myhrvold, Nathan tools for monosodium glutamate (MSG) Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, on  rst God shot, 4·375 classic, 2·287 for brines and cures, 3·160 110 Pacojets and, 2·407 handy special-purpose, 2·285 safety of, 1·213 in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy on writing Modernist Cuisine, 1·83 inexpensive but valuable, 2·286 monounsaturated fat, 1·222 Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso myocommata, 3·21 must-have, 2·284 Montagné, Prosper, 1·9 Powder, 5·197, 200 myo brils, 3·6, 8–9 technology and, 2·283, 286 Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a White Grape Syrup, 4·52 myoglobin Modernist raviolo al’uovo, 4·190 Tube, 4·225 muscle  bers, 3·6 cooked food color and appearance Modernist sausages, example recipes moose, chronic wasting disease in, muscles, 3·6–31 and, 3·92–93 for, 3·248–249 1·159 in cephalopods, 3·24–25 on cooked meat surfaces, 3·14 modi ed starches morels contracting, 3·8–9 gassing meat and, chemistry of, 3·95 best bets for thickening with, 4·30 Green Asparagus and Morels with converting to meat or seafood of, oxidation of meat and, 2·201, 3·12, as foam stabilizers, 4·257 Asparagus Jus, 2·341 3·32–43 14 natural source for, 1·257 Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 cooking meat and seafood and, 3·5 oxygen levels and states of, 3·93 organic label for, 1·245 Stu ed Morels, 5·113, 117 fast-twitch. See fast-twitch muscles in seal meat, 3·15 modi ed-atmosphere packing, for sous Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135, fat and, 3·15, 18–19 searing meat and, 3·85 vide, 2·212 139 meat color and, 3·12–15, 16–17 in tuna, 3·21 moist air, example recipes for cooking Morrison, William, 1·60 in seafood, 3·20–31 myosepta, 3·21 with, 2·176–177, 180–181 mortadella, parametric recipe for, slow-twitch. See slow-twitch muscles myosin moisture. See also humidity; hydration 3·238–239 tenderness and, 3·10–11 frictional heat and, 3·230 in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117, mortar and pestle, 2·400 working of, 3·6–31 Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51 118–119, 125 Morton Tender Quick curing salt museums, freeze-drying by, 2·444 as meat gel, 3·70, 222 in food for brining or curing, 3·158 mushroom jus as meat glue, 3·250 humectants and, 2·428 composition of, 3·161 Mushroom Jus, 2·348 in muscle, 3·6 microwave ovens and, 2·153 Moschion, 1·13 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 myotomes, 3·21, 23 in shallow frying, 2·127–128 Motecuhzoma, 1·13 mushrooms. See also speci c types of water-vapor ovens and. See CVap motility, of bacteria, 1·130 mushrooms water-vapor ovens; water-vapor moto (restaurant), 1·67, 69, 72. See also cooking sous vide, parametric recipe ovens Cantu, Homaro for, 3·289, 290 Mojitos, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, motorized aspirators dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 4·188 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 3·366 molasses vacuum  ltration with, 2·356 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, for vacuum reduction, 2·380 3·372 3·183 motors, power output of, 1·274 infusion of, parametric recipe for, Molasses Bu er, 2·331 Moulard duck, foie gras production in, 2·310 3·138

INDEX XCI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 91 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM N NACKA SYSTEM

New York City Norén, Nils nuts (continued) health department of on agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372 milling, 3·376 on salt content of processed food, Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206 seasonal mélanges with, 3·294 N 1·237 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil typical Nacka system, Swedish hospitals and sous vide rules of, 1·188, 195 recipe, 2·367 fat content of, 5·XLIII vacuum packing using, 1·40 Modernist cuisine in, 1·69 on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207 water content of, 5·XLI nailbrushes New International cuisine in, 1·30 freeze  ltration and, 2·369 volumetric equivalents for amounts for handwashing, 1·196–197, 198  e New York Times Magazine, 1·188 French fries by, 3·322 of, 5·XLV for mushroom washing, 1·199 New Zealand, screw tops for wine Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181 N-Zorbit (N-Zorbit M) naked frying, 3·317, 321 bo les in, 4·344–345 Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, for edible  lms, parametric recipe best bets for, 3·320 Newtonian  uids, 4·6 3·324 for, 4·60 chemistry of, 3·320 Nigerian miracle berry, 2·465 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, Spinach Paper, 3·369 coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319 nigiri sushi, how to slice  sh for, 3·60 4·97 thickening with, 4·5, 7, 13, 19, 30, naked porta lters, 4·385. See also 19th-Century-Style Lobster with pressure-cooked stock testing by, 34–36 crotchless porta lters Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107 2·87 parametric recipes for, 4·30, 60 nanoemulsions, 4·238–239 nisin, as food preservative, 1·144–145 on unvented pressure-cookers for example recipes for, 4·238–239 nitrates. See also saltpeter; sodium stocks, 2·292 science of, 4·205 nitrate normale, evolution of, 4·379 nano ltration, in viticulture, 4·330 chemistry of, 3·160 noroviruses (Norwalk-like viruses) Nanophyetus salmincola, 1·124 in cured meats, safety of, 1·143 food contamination by, 1·154 Napa cabbage intolerance to, 1·239 foodborne illnesses due to, Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111 in sel rose, 3·162 1·153–154 Kimchi, 3·352 USDA on cured foods with, 3·165 spreading, mathematics of, 1·153 Napoléon Bonaparte, 2·75, 84 nitrites. See also sodium nitrite North Carolina (Eastern Region) BBQ Napoleon III, 2·84, 4·331–332 bene ts of, 3·165 Sauce, 5·66, 70 NASA (National Aeronautics and Space chemistry of, 3·160 North Carolina (Lexington-Style) BBQ Administration), 1·40–42 for food preservation, 1·144–145 Sauce, 5·66, 71 National Advisory Commi ee on USDA on cured foods with, “ e Nose Smells What the Eye Sees,” Microbiological Criteria for Foods, 3·165–166 4·335 1·181 Nitro Green Tea Sour, dramatic e ects nostalgia. See memory National Aeronautics and Space of, 1·51 nougatine, Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Administration (NASA), 1·40–42, Nitro Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Nougatine, 5·267, 270 195, 3·372 Cream, dramatic e ects of, 1·51 Le Nouveau Guide, 1·24, 26 National Gum and Mica Company, 4·40 NitroCream LLC, 1·63 Nouvelle cuisine National Institutes of Health, 1·215 nitrogen Adrià’s study of, 1·34 National Pork Board, 1·179 Guinness beer cans pressurized development of, 1·5, 24, 26–31 National Starch, 4·40 with, 4·251 Modernism and, 1·52, 56 National Toxicology Program, 1·220 liquid. See liquid nitrogen reductions and, 4·11 Native Americans, acorn cooking by, phase diagram of, 1·303 stocks vs., for extracting  avors, 1·6 solubility in water of, 1·330, 333, 2·288 natural convection 4·243 Nouvelle Première trains, France, 1·41 from air, heat transfer coe cient of, wine preservation with, 4·346, 348 Novation Prima 600, thickening with, 1·283 nitrogen dioxide, 3·95 4·30 de nition of, 1·282 nitrosamines parametric recipe for, 4·30 natural foods, toxins in, 3·267 chemistry of, 3·160 novelty, cult of, 1·58–60 Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138 conversion of nitrates into, 3·165–166 NSEW technique, for grooming navy beans in cured meats, safety of, 1·143 espresso, 4·381, 383 Baked Beans, 5·67, 77 nitrous oxide (NO) nucleate boiling, 1·316, 317 Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, as foaming gas, 4·255, 256 thin sauces and, 2·68 5·81, 83 solubility in water of, 1·332 nucleation sites necrotizing enteritis, 1·141 Noble, Ann, 4·339 boiling and, 1·316 nectarines, cooking sous vide, Nobu, New International cuisine and, in a Champagne  ute, 4·333 parametric recipe for, 3·288 1·29 etched on glass, for beer or nematodes, 1·120–123 Noguchi, Soichi, 2·445 Champagne, 4·251 anisakid, 1·122–123 Noma, 1·70. See also Redzepi, René phase changes and, 1·304 Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123 noncirculating water baths, for sous nucleus of the solitary tract, 4·341 Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis; vide cooking, 2·232, 234 Nukazuke, 3·354 trichinellosis nonclimacteric fruits, ripening, Nurses’ Health Study, 1·214, 230–231, nervous system, prion diseases and, 3·283–284 241 1·156–157 nonin ammatory diarrhea, 1·114 nut bu er Nespresso capsule system, 4·400 noninvasive infections milling, 2·418 ne les, cooking sous vide, parametric bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, for set foams, parametric recipe for, recipe for, 3·290 138–141 4·288–289 neurologic symptoms, common de nition of, 1·110 nutmeg extract, parametric recipe for, pathogens causing, 1·114 nonionic compounds, 1·330 2·326 New American cuisine, history of, nonmedical dietary systems, 1·240–249 nutmeg infusion, parametric recipe for, 1·28–29 nonpolar, de nition of, 4·199 2·310  e New England Journal of Medicine, nonpolar solvents, 1·330 nutritional epidemiology, 1·218–220 1·213 noodles. See also pasta nuts. See also speci c types of nuts New Guinea, cannibalism and kuru in, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, about, 5·244 1·159 2·451 converting grams to volumes for, New International cuisine, history of, gel, how to extrude, 4·138 5·XXXVII 1·29–31 with peristaltic pump, 4·139 frozen, milling of, 3·374

XCII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 92 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM OXTAIL O

okra onions (continued) ostrich, cooking sous vide, parametric Crispy Okra, 5·90, 97 Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183 recipe for, 3·99 preserving, parametric recipe for, Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265 Ostwald ripening O 3·348 Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11 as emulsion failure, 4·212 oats Raw Okra, 5·97 Onion Sablé, 5·261, 263 in foams, 4·249 Candied Pu ed Oats, 5·125, 128 oleic acid, 1·233, 234 Onion Stock, 5·261, 264 ouzo/pastis e ect and, 4·211 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso o, oleoresins, 2·320 Onion Tart plated-dish recipe, Oud Sluis, 1·70 3·308 olive oil 5·261–265 L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49 Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133 Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 outgassing, decanting wine and, 4·342, obesity, 1·23, 243 chemistry of, 1·233, 2·126 Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 343 weight loss diets and, 1·240–241 fa y acids in, 1·234 smoking, parametric recipe for, Outhier, Louis, 1·26 observation bias, nutritional studies heart disease and, 1·232, 234 3·362 ouzo e ect, science of, 4·211 and, 1·218 Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147 Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, oven  nishing, in sous vide cooking, octopus Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235 5·219, 221 2·270 biology of, 3·24–25 Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 oven mi s cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Olive Oil Spread, 4·51 Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177 conduction in, 1·277, 280 for, 3·108 smoking, parametric recipe for, Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, silicone, 1·280 Smoked Octopus, 3·215 3·362 5·17, 19 ovens, 2·150–191 Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194  ickened Oil, 4·230 Turbot with Onion and Marrow braising using, 2·96 odds ratio, nutritional studies and, Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35 Broth, 3·105 combi. See combi ovens 1·219 olives. See also Black Olive entries; green onsen eggs, parametric recipe for convection. See convection ovens odors olives cooking, 4·78 conventional, convection and agreeable. See aromas preserving, parametric recipe for, , 4·75, 78 radiant heat in, 1·286 bad 3·348 oocysts evolution of uses for, 2·101 microbial taints and, 1·135 omega-3 fats, 1·231–232 Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129 foam forming with, 4·258 from sealed bags, 2·214 Omelet Base, 5·215, 217 de nition of, 1·115 humidity in, 2·102 o ensive, when cooking cured meat omelets Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129 heat control and, 2·153 or seafood, 3·165 in combi oven vs. conventional oven, Giardia intestinalis, 1·129 manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by, of urine, asparagus and, 4·350 4·95 Toxoplasma gondii, hardiness of, 1·272 Odyssey (Homer), 1·13, 3·220 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95 1·126, 129 microwave. See microwave ovens Oeufs en Meure e plated-dish recipe, Japanese (tamago), parametric opacity modern. See also combi ovens; CVap 5·219–221 recipe for, 4·92 of emulsions, 4·203 water-vapor ovens; water-vapor o  a l . See innards Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217 gel selection and, 4·73 ovens ogo, 5·28 Omelet Base, 5·215, 217 “OpenCola,” 4·239 heat and humidity control testing Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177 parametric recipe for, 4·92 optics in, 2·156–157 oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion On Food and Cooking (McGee), 1·42, 43, cooking meat and seafood and, improvement proposals for, 2·167 continuous phase and, 4·199 44, 49, 3·85 3·93–94 temperature control by, 2·112 creaming as failure of, 4·210 1D reduction, in bacteria for sanitizing of emulsions, physics of, 4·203 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239 food, 1·148, 149 Orange Soda, 2·472 moist air, 2·154–181 oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) emulsion 160 Bloom gelatin oranges. See also blood oranges pot-roasting using, 2·96 Bancro ’s rule and, 4·203 for airs, parametric recipe for, 4·264 as acidi er, 2·314 temperature control in, 1·207 continuous phase and, 4·199 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, thermostats for, 2·111 oils, 2·114–131. See also essential oils; 4·140 5·94 vacuum, 2·433, 4·310 frying; speci c types of oils for edible  lms, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe water-vapor. See water-vapor ovens chemical changes in, heat-induced, for, 4·60 for, 3·291 wood- red, 2·26–27, 33 2·123–125 for  uid gels, parametric recipe for, Hot Orange Gel, 4·167 overcooking co ee brewing in, 4·371 4·177 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused food safety rules and, 1·170, 191 con t cooking in. See c o n  t s for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe Milk, 3·103 reheating and, 2·264 cryopoaching, 2·460 for, 4·165 Mandarin Leather, 3·369 O/W (oil-in-water) emulsion emulsi ers in, 2·123, 125 for light foams, parametric recipe Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138 continuous phase and, 4·199 extracting  avor with, 2·323 for, 4·270 Orange Soda, 2·472 creaming as failure of, 4·210  ash points of, 2·126 for set foams, parametric recipe for, Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239  a v o r e d 4·288–289 3·356 O/W/O (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsion Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut for thick foams, parametric recipe oregano, antimicrobial properties of Bancro ’s rule and, 4·203 Oil, 2·367 for, 4·278–279 wine and, 1·145 continuous phase and, 4·199 Curry Oil, 2·331 thickening with, parametric recipe organ meats. See innards oxidation Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330 for, 4·47 organic food aging braises and pot roasts and, Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330 onions as dietary system, 1·245–247 2·98 for frying, chemistry of, 2·126 Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302 pesticides and, 1·252–253 of fats hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40 compressing, parametric recipe for, Ornish, Dean, 1·242, 244 dry-aging meat and, 3·41 hydrolysis of, 2·123 3·390 O’Shea, Jack, 3·48 freezer taste and, 1·306 melting points of, 2·126 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Osmanthus vinegar, about, 5·172  avor changes in frozen food and, saturated vs. unsaturated, 2·126 for, 3·289, 290 osmosis 2·261 for sautéing, 2·44 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, brining and, 3·154 food preservation and, 2·252 for shallow frying, 2·127–128 3·366 drying with salt and sugar and, 3·346 myoglobin pigment in meat and, smoke points of, 2·116, 125, 126 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373, freezing and thawing liver and, 3·138 2·201 smoking, parametric recipe for, 5·261, 263 juicing and, 2·335, 336 vacuum packing and, 2·208 3·362 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, reverse. See reverse osmosis oxtail stability of, 2·126 3·372 osmotic pressure, juicing and, 2·335 Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163 thickening, 4·13 Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263 Osso Bucco Milanese plated-dish cooking sous vide, parametric recipe typical, fat content of, 5·XLIII impregnating, parametric recipe for, recipe, 5·60–65 for, 3·109 vacuum frying and, 2·128 3·390 Osteria La Francescana, 1·70 Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50 Onion Arle e, 5·261, 262 Oxtail Consommé, 2·376

INDEX XCIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 93 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM O OXTAIL

oxtail (continued) Paracelsus, 3·160 parametric recipes (continued) Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307 Paradoxurus hermaphroditus, Kopi for smoked plant foods, 3·362 Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52 Luwak co ee and, 4·360 for spheri cation, 4·186–187 oxygen P paragonimiasis, 1·124 for stocks, 2·296–298 myoglobin color in meat and seafood packaging, plastic parametric recipes for tender meats sous vide, 3·96 and, 3·92–93 for edge sealers, 2·222 for acidi ers, 2·314–315 for tender poultry sous vide, 3·99 removal from un nished wine for impulse sealers, 2·225 for ba er-frying, 3·332–333 for thick foams, 4·278–279 bo les, 4·346 molding sausage with, 3·241 for blended egg gels, 4·92 for thickened hot and cold liquids, solubility in water of, 1·330, 333, selection of, 2·210–211 for breading, 3·338–339 4·46–47 4·243 sous vide cooking and, 2·207 for brines, cures, and dry rubs, for tough meats, poultry, and oxygenation Pacojet, 2·406–411 3·168–172 shell sh, 3·108–109 decanting wine and, 4·342–343 breaking down food with, 2·398, for broth, 2·304–305 for traditional starch thickeners, wine aroma and, 4·350 400, 406–411 for cellulose gum gels, 4·170–171 4·28 oxymyoglobin, 3·93 example recipes for, 2·410–411 for coarse-ground sausages, for transglutaminase gels, 4·116 oyster mushrooms history of, 2·407 3·236–237 for vegetable purees, 2·424–425 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe meat ba ers made in beaker of, for cold gels, 4·140–141 for vegetables sous vide, 3·288, for, 3·289 3·231, 233 for compressed and impregnated 289–290, 292 Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er, 3·100 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 fruits and vegetables, 3·390–391 parasitic worms, 1·120–125 oysters tartares and raw meat preparation for compressed fruits and vegetables,  esh contamination and, 1·117 Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66 with, 3·62 3·390–391  ukes as, 1·120, 123–124 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233 Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410 for consommé, 2·374–375 foodborne illnesses in U.S. and, biology of, 3·26, 27 pacotizing, 2·406–411 for cooked whole eggs, 4·78–79 1·111, 113 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, Pad  ai, 3·385 for , 4·84 as foodborne pathogens, 1·108 4·121 Paella Rice, 5·239, 241 for dehydrated fruits and vegetables, roundworms as, 1·120–123 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, Paella Stock, 5·239, 240 3·366–367 tapeworms as, 1·124–125 3·210 Paella Valenciana plated-dish recipe, for edible  lms, 4·60 parathas, about, 5·92 contamination of, 3·28 5·239–245 for emulsion-style sausages, Parker, Robert M., Jr. cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Pain d’Épices Powder, 5·17, 22 3·238–239 aroma sensitivity of, 4·348 for, 3·103 pale so exudate (PSE), adrenaline and, for extracting  avor with alcohol, on Ashenfelter’s Bordeaux Equation, fecal contamination of, 1·117 3·34 2·326 4·328 noroviruses and, 1·153, 155 palm oil, chemistry of, 2·126 for fermented sausage, 3·244–245 biography of, 4·330 Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28 palm olein oil, chemistry of, 2·126 for  sh and shell sh sous vide, wine ratings by, 4·338, 340 Oyster Bu er Emulsion, 5·233, 236 Palmer, Charlie, New International 3·102–103 on wine taste, 4·332 Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206 cuisine and, 1·30 for  avor infusion into fats, Parkerization, 4·330 Oyster Escabeche, 5·205, 206 palmitic acid, 1·233 2·328–329 Parmesan cheese Oyster plated-dish recipe, pan scrapings, 2·343 for  avor-infused liquids, 2·310 Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 5·205–207 pancreas, 5·32. See also sweetbreads for  uid gels, 4·177–179 infusion of, parametric recipe for, Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277 characteristics and cooking of, 3·140 for freeze-dried fruits and 2·310 Oysters Guggenheim Bilbao, 1·57 paneer, parametric recipe for, 4·104 vegetables, 3·372 Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88 Oysters with Mignone e Air, 4·265 panfrying. See also griddles; shallow for freeze-drying, 2·450–452 Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35 Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236 frying for froths, airs, and bubbles, 4·264 Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181 seasonal ban on, politics of, 1·171 basting and, physics of, 2·103 for fruit and vegetable chips, Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe o, Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, characteristics of, 2·37 3·328–329 4·143 Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, a er cooking sous vide, 2·275 for fruit purees, 2·424–425 Parmesan water, parametric recipe for, 5·197, 200  ipping food in, 2·38–39 for fruits sous vide, 3·288, 290–291 2·374–375 griddles for, 2·40–41 for hamburgers, 3·234–235 Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Warm heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277 for heat-treated fruit, 3·359 Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 4·53 a la plancha, 2·36–43 for hot- and cold-smoked meats and Parnell,  omas, 4·9 pans and burner choices for, 2·41–43 seafood, 3·210 parsley pans for hot fruit and vegetable gels, Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312 for combi ovens, 2·166 4·164–165 Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot dark-surfaced, radiant heat and, 2·38 for hot gels, 4·160–161 Tops, 5·49, 53 frying, seasoning of, 2·53 for impregnated fruits and Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231 for sautéing, 2·45 vegetables, 3·390–391 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 for searing a la plancha, 2·41–43 for jus, 2·344–345 Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231 as vacuum containers, 2·226–227 for light foams, 4·270 parsnips papacy, early gastronomy of, 1·10 for microwaved vegetables, 3·311 natural toxins of, 1·249 papain, 3·195 for milks and creams, 4·56 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 papayas for modern starch thickeners, 4·30 Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97 in Modernist Cuisine, 1·97–98 particle size reduction, 2·398–427 preserving, parametric recipe for, for o al sous vide, 3·146 dry grinding and, 2·401–406 3·348 for pasta, 3·380–381 equations on energy to reduce, 2·401 paper pod systems, for espresso, for potato purees, 3·296–297 equipment for, 2·398–427 technology of, 4·400 for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·82 pacotizing and, 2·406–411 paper towels, disposable, kitchen for protein curds, 4·104 strategies for reducing, 2·400–401 hygiene and, 1·200 for pu ed snacks, 4·302 wet-grinding and, 2·412–427 papers for riso os, 3·304–305 particles dehydrating formula for, 3·367 for salting, pickling, and fermenting, size of Seafood Paper, 3·188 3·348–349 mouthfeel and, 4·10 Spinach Paper, 3·369 for separated egg gels, 4·85 reducing. See particle size Papin, Denis, pressurized boiler of, 2·76 for set foams, 4·288–289 reduction paprika infusion, parametric recipe for, for smoked eggs and dairy products, for thickening, 4·7, 12, 19 2·310 4·100 partridge, as substitute for pigeon, 5·132

XCIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 94 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM PID P

Pascal seconds, as viscosity measure, 4·6 pathogens. See also bacteria; foodborne Peking Duck pheasant, cooking sous vide, parametric Paskach,  omas, 1·62–63 illnesses; viruses skin crisping by loosening from, recipe for, 3·99 Passard, Alain endemic, 1·110 3·123 Phelan, Robert, 4·246 L’Arpège egg of, 5·211 microorganisms as, 1·106–109 traditional cooking of, 3·119, 122 phenolic acids, olive oil and, 1·232, 234 Onion Gratin recipe, 5·261, 265 Pa erson, Daniel pellicle, formed by smoking, 2·141, phenols, smoked food and, 2·134, 3·211 Scallop Tartare recipe, 3·67 on essential oils, 2·322 3·211 pheophytin pigments, in green Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe, Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop vegetables, 2·267 Sabayon recipe, 3·363 4·276 Mochi, 5·197, 202 Philosophers at Dinner (Athenaeus), 1·12 passion fruit Modernist cuisine and, 1·67 penetrating meat tenderizers, hazards pho broth dehydrating, parametric recipe for, poached scrambled eggs by, 4·93 with, 1·176 Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307 3·366 pavé pepperoni parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 Passion Fruit Brown Bu er Fluid Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157, Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 Phocanema decipens, 1·122–123 Gel, 5·181, 182 159 parametric recipe for, 3·244–245 phosphate brine, basic, parametric Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177 Sous Vide Duck Con t Pavé, 5·81, peptides, in freshly slaughtered meat, recipe for, 3·168 Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180 82 3·34 phosphates Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Sous Vide Monk sh Pavé, 5·151, 155 percolation, for co ee brewing, 4·364 for accelerating brining, 3·158 Chorizo Powder, 4·290 Pavoni, Desiderio, 4·372 perimysium, 3·6 for brining or curing, 3·157 Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275 peristaltic pumps, extruding gel phospholipids, as surfactant emulsi ers, Vinaigre e, 5·181, 183 peas. See black-eyed peas; chickpeas; noodles with, 4·139 4·216–217 pasta, 3·378–388 green peas Perlage Champagne preservation photographs Chinese, Italians and, 1·14 peaches system, 4·347 credit for, 1·101 Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227 compressing, parametric recipe for, Perlini carbonation system, 4·347 of cutaways, 1·88–89. See also doughs, best bets for, 3·381 3·390 Persian cucumbers, Nukazuke, 3·354 cutaway illustrations example recipes for, 3·382–387, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe persimmons equipment for, 1·89 5·253 for, 3·288 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Myhrvold on use of, 1·84–85 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, impregnating, parametric recipe for, for, 3·288 Phylloxera, 4·327 2·451 3·390 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, Physiologie du Goût (Brillat-Savarin, ingredients and process for, 3·378 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 3·366 1825), 1·9 Mac and Cheese, 3·387 4·273 Hachiya variety, unripe phase of, Pic, Jacques, 1·34 milled grains for, 3·376 preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·262 pickle chips, parametric recipe for, Pad  ai, 3·385 3·348 persistent diarrhea, 1·114 3·328 parametric recipe for, 3·380–381 peanut bu er personal hygiene pickled eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·82 Pasta Marinara, 3·386 Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122 chef’s accessories for, 1·202–203 pickles Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250 Salmonella-contaminated, 1·180, 195 food safety and, 1·196–200 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, smoking of, 3·361 peanut oil, chemistry of, 2·126 Peschardt, William Julius Syplie, 1·39 5·55, 58 parametric recipe for, 3·362 peanuts pesticides, 1·245, 252–253 fermented, parametric recipe for, Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), allergies to, 1·238 Petrini, Carl, 1·23 3·349 4·117, 5·55, 59 Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303 pH. See also acidi ers; acidity of food; Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75 Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe o, pears acids or acidic compounds; pickling Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97 4·143 compressing, parametric recipe for, acidic marinades and, 3·192–193 parametric recipe for, 3·349 wheat, pu ed, parametric recipe for, 3·390 bacterial replication rates and, 1·143, Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268 4·302 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 144 Pickled Bu ernut Squash, 5·60, 64 Pasta Marinara, 3·386 for, 3·288, 290 boiling-water sterilizing of canned Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133 Pasteur, Louis, 1·148, 2·75, 84–85, 250 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, foods and, 2·81 Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137 pasteurization 3·366 Clostridium botulinum and, 1·139 Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26 drying with warm air and, heat-treating, parametric recipe for, canning method and, 2·76 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125, 2·432–433 3·359 in century eggs, 4·83 131 of eggs, 1·191, 4·74 impregnating, parametric recipe for, chemistry of, 3·194 Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275 FDA Food Code on, 1·185, 187, 3·390 color and texture of cooking plant Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83 188–189 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, foods and, 3·274–275 Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118 for heat-sanitizing food, 1·148–149 5·281, 283 of espresso, hard water and, 4·384 Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207 holding at speci c temperature for, preserving, parametric recipe for, in fermented sausage, 3·246 salt, parametric recipe for, 3·349 2·243 3·348 gel selection and, 4·73 sour vinegar, parametric recipe for, of ice cream bases, 1·206 pecans, smoking, parametric recipe for, juice extraction and, 2·239 3·349 refrigerated shelf-life for vacuum- 3·362 lowering, for food preservation, Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353 packed foods a er, 2·257 pecorino cheese, Pecorino with Tru e 3·344 sweet vinegar, parametric recipe for, of sausage, 3·233 Honey on Cedar, 4·101 Maillard reaction and, 3·91 3·349 simpli ed cooking standards for, Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached marinades and, 3·190 pickling 1·190, 191, 192, 194 Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276 measuring of, 2·316 boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83 for storage, terminology for, pectin in muscle a er slaughter, 3·32, of eggs, best bets for, 4·82 2·249–250 drying plant foods with, 3·365 34–35 example recipes for, 3·353, 5·25, 135 , parametric recipe for as gelling agent, 4·68 pressure-canning and, 2·85 formulas for, 3·349 cooking, 4·78 with heat, for thickening, 4·7 sodium citrate as sequestrant and, parametric recipe for, 3·348–349 pastis e ect, science of, 4·211 hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296 4·125 of plant foods, 3·344, 346, 348 pastrami, Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213 natural sources for, 1·253, 257 thickeners and, 4·15, 16 PID (proportional-integral-derivative) pastry chefs, innovations of, 1·73 as vegetable glue, 3·392 truite au bleu and, 3·40 controllers pâte, Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145 pectin methylesterase (PME), 3·280 phase changes characteristics of, 1·270 Pâte à Choux, 5·151, 152 pectinase in emulsions, 4·199, 203, 206 God shots and, 4·375 Patent and Trademark O ce, 1·71 juicing fruits with, 2·335 thermal energy from, 1·290 invention of, 4·398 patent law, food ingredients and juicing plant foods with, 2·336 of water, energy of, 1·300–303 for kitchen appliances, 1·271 techniques and, 1·70, 71–72 Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324 phase diagrams, of water, how to read, programmable, 2·238 Pathogen Modeling Program (PMP), Pekin duck, roasting, 2·33 1·302–303 for smoking, 3·208 1·147 phase inversion, 4·206

INDEX XCV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 95 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM P PID

PID (proportional-integral-derivative) Pistachio Consommé, 2·376 plants, 3·266. See also speci c plants plated-dish recipes for shell sh controllers (continued) pistachio cream for gelato, 4·214 composition of, physics of, 3·266 (continued) for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240 Pistachio Gelato, 4·236 defenses of, defeating, 3·267, 273 Shrimp Cocktail, 5·180–183 types and characteristics of, pistachio oil, Pistachio Gelato, 4·236 as food. See plant foods; speci c plant  ai Crab Miang, 5·189–191 2·230–231 Pistachio Puree, 2·427 foods plated-dish recipes for starches, Piège, Jean-François pistachios gelling agents from, 4·126 5·223–256 Spaghe i Carbonara recipe, 3·384 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, hydrocolloids from, as thickeners, Astronaut Ramen, 5·247–251 Steamed Blancmange recipe, 4·296 4·294 4·19 Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225–227 pig, suckling Pistachio Consommé, 2·376 seeds of. See seeds Paella Valenciana, 5·239–245 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Pistachio Gelato, 4·236 self-defense by, toxicity of, 3·266 Russian Pelmeni, 5·233–237 for, 3·96, 109 Pistachio Puree, 2·427 plasma, as charged gas, 1·301 Shanghai Soup Dumplings, Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto plasmids, 1·109, 133 5·253–256 and Orange Sauce, 3·110 Salad, 4·53 Plasmodium, 1·126 Spaghe i alle Vongole, 5·229–231 pig-bel, C. per ingens-contaminated pit, barbecue, origins of, 3·208 plasmolysis, cell dehydration and, 1·305 plated-dish recipes for tender cuts, food and, 1·141 pit boss, use of term, 3·208 Plassman, Hilke, 4·340 5·3–39 pigeon pita bread, water as foaming gas for, plastic packaging Autumn Harvest Pork Roast, 5·17–23 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 4·254 for edge sealers, 2·222 Beef Rib Steak, 5·5–9 for, 3·99, 108 pitch, extreme viscosity of, 4·9 for impulse sealers, 2·225 Blanque e de Veau, 5·31–33 Farce Royale, 5·126, 132 pitchers, spouted, for pouring la es, molding sausage with, 3·241 Choucroute Royale, 5·35–39 Pigeon en Salmis plated-dish recipe, 4·391–392 selection of, 2·210–211 Mushroom Swiss Burger, 5·11–15 5·125–133 plancha. See also griddles; panfrying sous vide cooking and, 2·207 Rack of Lamb with Garlic, 5·25–29 Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er, 3·100 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 plastic wrap plated-dish recipes for tough cuts, Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132 searing using, 2·40–41 molding sausage with, 3·241 5·41–105 Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133 of frozen meat, 3·122 vacuum packing and, 2·212 American BBQ , 5·66–79 pigeon o al, Sous Vide Pigeon O al, for sous vide cooking, 2·271 plate freezers, uses for, 1·307 Braised Short Ribs, 5·42–47 5·125, 130 plant foods, 3·258–401 Plateau, Joseph, 4·246 Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn), pigeon stock, parametric recipe for, cooking plated dishes 5·81–84 2·296–298 bene ts of, 3·267 Blumenthal on, 1·51 Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring), pig’s blood, Hot Blood Pudding color changes in, chemistry of, elements of recipes for, 1·99 5·85–87 Custard, 4·221 3·274–275 invention of, 1·25 Historic Lamb Curries, 5·89–99 pilaf, Candied Orange and Carrot frying and, 3·314–343 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26 Hungarian Beef Goulash, 5·55–59 Pulao, 5·94 methods for, 3·273 recipes in Modernist Cuisine for, Osso Bucco Milanese, 5·60–65 pin bones, in  sh, 3·22 microwaving and, 3·310–313 1·97–100 Pot-au-Feu, 5·49–53 pin-and-disc mills, 2·404 pressure-cooking and, 3·298–309 styles of, 1·98 Sunday Pork Belly, 5·101–105 pine bud infusion, parametric recipe for, sous vide, 3·286–297 styles of recipes for, 1·100 platinum RTD (resistance temperature 2·310 culinary deception with, 3·388–401 plated-dish recipes for eggs, 5·209–221 diode), 1·207 pine nuts dehydrating, 3·365–373  e Breakfast Egg, 5·211–213 Pliny the Elder, 2·396 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter enzymes in, 3·282–284 Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217 plums Squash, 5·60, 65 fat content of, 5·XLIII Oeufs en Meure e, 5·219–221 compressing, parametric recipe for, Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut FDA Food Code time and plated-dish recipes for  sh, 5·141–177 3·390 Cream, 2·411 temperature for, 1·184 Black Cod “Frédy Girardet,” cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Romesco Sauce, 2·419 freeze-drying, critical temperature 5·170–173 for, 3·288 Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177 for, 2·446 Fish and Chips, 5·143–145 impregnating, parametric recipe for, smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362 fruits as. See fruits; speci c  uits Hamachi Maltaise, 5·147–149 3·390 pineapple Le Gargouillou with, 1·20, 3·294–295 Hawaiian Poke, 5·175–177 in Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, compressing, parametric recipe for, heat-shocking, 3·358–359 Malaysian Steamed Snapper, Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202 3·390 internationalization of, history of, 5·167–169 pluots cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 3·268 Monk sh with Mediterranean about, 5·202 for, 3·288 juices from Flavors, 5·151–155 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, dehydrating, parametric recipe for, browning of, 2·338 Salmon Rus, 5·161–165 Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202 3·366  ltering, 2·354 Skate in Black Bu er, 5·157–159 PME (pectin methylesterase), 3·280 impregnating, parametric recipe for, juicing with pectinase enzymes, plated-dish recipes for fruits and PMP (Pathogen Modeling Program), 3·390 2·336 vegetables, 5·259–287 1·147 Pineapple Glass, 3·370 milling, 3·376–377 Crispy Cauli ower, 5·281–283 poach test preserving, parametric recipe for, nuts as. See nuts Lentil Salad, 5·267–271 of sausage binding power, 3·223 3·348 preserving, 3·344–373 Onion Tart, 5·261–265 technique of, 3·225 smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362 properties of, 3·262–285 Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277–279 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, pineapple chips, parametric recipe for, raw Sweet Pea Fricassee, 5·272–275 4·276 3·328 digesting, biology of, 3·269 Watermelon Bulgogi, 5·285–287 “Poached” Egg, 4·195 pinecones, green, Adrià’s use of FDA rules and, 1·182 plated-dish recipes for poultry, Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87 immature pine nuts from, 1·36 seeds as. See seeds 5·107–139 Poached Lobster, 4·219 pink brine, basic, parametric recipe for, smoked, 2·141 Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken, Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187 3·168 best bets for, 3·362 5·113–119 Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236 Pink Grapefruit Con t, 5·225, 226 smoking, 3·361–363 Duck Apicius, 5·121–123 poaching pink salt rub, parametric recipe for, so ening by holding at speci c Foie Gras à la Vapeur, 5·109–111 cryopoaching as 3·169 temperature, 2·247–248 Guinea Hen Tagine, 5·135–139 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, pink salts, nitrates or nitrites in, 3·165 starches in, 3·280–283 Pigeon en Salmis, 5·125–133 165 Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and, 4·327 textures of, modifying, 3·374–401 plated-dish recipes for shell sh, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, piquillo peppers, 5·279 types of, 3·264 5·179–207 4·291 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, vacuum compression and, 2·213 Lobster Américaine, 5·184–187 for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61 3·372 vegetables as. See vegetables; speci c Oyster Stew, 5·205–207 technique for, 2·460 Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry vegetables Pulpo a la Greca, 5·193–195 of eggs, stirring pot before, physics Salad, 5·277, 278 water content of, 3·273 Shell sh , 5·197–203 of, 2·67

XCVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 96 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM POUR-OVER COFFEE BREWER P

poaching (continued) porcini mushrooms pork fatback potatoes (continued) Girardet method for broiling and, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248 Smoked Potato Con t, 5·193, 195 2·24–25, 96, 97 for, 3·289 Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune pod systems, for espresso, technology Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 Italian Sausage, 3·242 Sabayon, 3·363 of, 4·400 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Saucisson Sec, 3·247 smoking, parametric recipe for, Poggioli, Renato, 1·18 Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97 pork lard, chemistry of, 2·126 3·362 Point, Fernand pork. See also bacon; ham; hogs; pork rinds, pu ed, making of, 3·129 starch granules of, 4·20 on glazing vegetables, 2·58 prosciu o; suckling pig pork stock, parametric recipe for, Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24 aging, 3·41 2·296–297 Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, Poulet au Feu d’Enfer recipe, 3·100 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39 Pork Tro er Beignet, 5·35, 38 3·325 polar solvents, 1·330 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 porta lters, espresso thickening with, 4·28 polarity, of water molecules, 2·182, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248 crotchless toxins in, 3·262 4·199 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, advantages of, 4·385, 388 Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11 Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses 3·210 invention of, 4·398 volumetric equivalents for amounts Country Ham recipe, 3·183 cooked, pink color in, 3·94 dosing, 4·378, 380 of, 5·XLV polenta cooking grooming. See grooming espresso Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Almond Polenta, 4·36 cooking times for, 1·121, 179, 180 porta lters Salad, 4·53 Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181 sous vide, parametric recipe for, tamping, 4·380, 383–384 pot-au-feu Pressure-Cooked Polenta with 3·96, 109 how to, 4·382 parametric recipe for, 2·304–305 Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253, porta lters, nanoscale, 2·357 Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52 political interest groups, food safety 256 portions. See also food size Pot-au-Feu plated-dish recipe, rules and, 1·170 cultural recommendations on single, Pacojets for, 2·407, 410 5·49–53 “ e (Political) Science of Salt” cooking, 1·165, 170–171 vacuum-sealed individual, 2·199, 201 pot-roasting, 2·93–96 (Taubes), 1·236 curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172 Portuguese Cork Association, 4·348 braising or stewing vs., 2·93 Pollan, Michael Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247 posset, parametric recipe for, 4·104 chemistry of aging and, 2·98 on eating our great-grandmothers’ fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle Le Postay, 1·70 cutaway illustration of, 2·94–95 food, 1·15 in, 3·12, 13 Postmodern cuisine, Modernist cuisine of meat, how to, 2·99 on Slow Food, 1·23 FDA safe cooking standards for, vs., 1·57 traditional method for, 2·93, 96 Polo, Marco, pasta and, 1·14 1·170 potassium pots, on stove Polyclar  ning, 2·352, 360 food safety misconceptions about, hypertension and, 1·236 heat loss and, 1·276 polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, 1·179–180 as ion-based coagulant, 4·126 immersion circulators for, 2·234 smoked food and, 2·143 free-range, safety debate on, 1·179 potassium nitrate for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240 polyethylene, for rescuing corked wine, Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251 for dry-curing, 3·165 Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100 4·349 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, for food preservation, 1·144–145 poultry. See also speci c types of poultry polyglycerol esters, as surfactant 2·451 in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162 cooking emulsi ers, 4·216–217 Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, potato chips ideal temperature for, 3·89 polymer molecules, for gelling or 5·85, 86 homemade, 3·329–330 simpli ed standards for, 1·190, thickening, 4·71 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 3·328 193 Polyp Prevention Trial, 1·215, 217, 233 3·210 Pringles, history of, 3·330 diet and  esh color of, 3·93 polyphenol oxidase (PPO) House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18 potato starch, thickening with, FDA Food Code on Salmonella in, blanching and, 2·267 Italian Sausage, 3·242 parametric recipe for, 4·28 1·175 fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283 Pork Loin Roast, 5·17, 23 potatoes FDA Food Code time and plant juice browning and, 2·338 , 5·67, 78 Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313 temperature for, 1·187–188 polyphosphates. See sodium Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35, Baked Potato Broth, 2·309 FSIS on Salmonella reduction in, tripolyphosphate 36 Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193 1·168 polysaccharides Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114 boiled, sugar and, 3·276 plated-dish recipes for, 5·107–139 hydrocolloids as, 4·124 primal cuts of, 3·44 Clay Potatoes, 3·398 red starches as, 4·20 Shoulder, 5·67, 78 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, best bets for, polysorbates, as surfactant emulsi ers, rea aching skin as breading a er for, 3·290, 292 3·99 4·216–217 cooking, 3·122–123 Duck Leg Con t with Pommes tender, parametric recipe for polyunsaturated fat, 1·222 red meat in, 3·14, 15 Sarladaises, 3·178 cooking sous vide, 3·99 polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics, food roast, how to pu skin on,  our milled from, 3·376 safe cooking principles for, 1·191 safety and, 2·207, 3·241 3·126–127  oury vs. waxy, gelatinization of, tanning properties of smoke and, polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), as safe cooking temperature for, 3·280 2·141  ning agent, 2·360 1·121–122 frying, 3·322–325 tender red, parametric recipe for pomegranate Saucisson Sec, 3·247 mashed cooking sous vide, 3·99 juicing seeds of, 5·122 as sausage binder, 3·222 of Robuchon, 1·37, 58 tender white, parametric recipe for Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121, for sausage-making, cuts for, 3·222 of Steingarten, 1·65 cooking sous vide, 3·99 122 shoulder, dissecting, 3·48–49 natural toxins of, 1·249 tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78 pomelo, Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189, skin contraction during cooking of, Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324 tough, cooking sous vide 191 3·118 Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323 best bets for, 3·108 Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323 Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38 Pommes Sou ées, 4·306, 5·143, 145 parametric recipe for, 3·108 pommes sou ées Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174 white Pommes Sou ées, 4·306, 5·143, tapeworms and, 1·124 Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8 cooking sous vide, best bets for, 145 tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78 Potato Salad, 5·67, 73 3·99 water as foaming gas for, 4·254 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82 pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 tender, parametric recipe for ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313 Trichinella and, 1·117–118, 120 purees of cooking sous vide, 3·99 popcorn Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork best bets for, 3·297 poultry liver, cooking sous vide, Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104 Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254 parametric recipe for, 2·425, parametric recipe for, 3·146 microwave, 2·183 pork and Banyuls roasting jus, 3·296–297 pounding meat, 3·50 Popcorn Pudding, 4·181 parametric recipe for, 2·344–345 Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8 pour-over co ee brewer, 4·369 Popeil, Ron, 2·34 pork belly, sous vide tenderizing of, Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330 3·83 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309

INDEX XCVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 97 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM P POWDERS

powders Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135 pressure steamers, heat transfer in, propylene glycol esters, as surfactant cryogenic freezing of, 2·461 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 5·281, 1·319 emulsi ers, 4·216–217 cryopowdering and, how to, 2·461 283 pressure-canning, 2·85–91 propylene glycol, thickening with, espresso, instant, 4·371 preserves, seasonal mélanges with, acidity of food and, 2·76 parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47 pacotizing, 2·406–409 3·295 Chevalier-Appert on, 2·75 p r o s c i u o spray-dried, 2·438–441 preserving food. See food preservation cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91 Chawanmushi, 4·96 power pressing, example recipes for, 3·377  ne tuning, 2·88 Ham Broth, 2·306 converting energy units and, 1·273 pressure. See also pressure canners; how air confounds, physics of, 2·87 infusion of, parametric recipe for, units of, 1·272–273 pressure cookers; pressure  ltration; for low-acidity foods, 2·85 2·310 PPO (polyphenol oxidase) pressure-canning; pressure-cooking pressure amount and duration for, Prosciu o and Melon “Raw Egg,” blanching and, 2·267 plant foods 2·88 4·194 fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283 atmospheric. See atmospheric reading gauge displays for, 2·86–87 slicing, 3·50 plant juice browning and, 2·338 pressure time to sterilization pressure using, prospective randomized, controlled Prague Powders espresso-making and, 4·372, 374 2·89 clinical trials. See randomized clinical nitrates or nitrites in, 3·165  neness of grind vs., in espresso Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114 trials No. 1 machines, 4·378 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97 prospective studies for brining or curing, 3·158 gauges and, atmospheric pressure Pressure-Cooked Polenta with de nition of, 1·214 composition of, 3·161 and readings of, 2·86–87 Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 of nutrition, 1·220 No. 2, composition of, 3·161 homogenizers and. See Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 3·303, protein coagulants, 4·103 Pralus, Georges, 1·41, 42 homogenizers, high-pressure; 5·181 protein extracts, as sausage binders, Prats, Bruno, 4·328 homogenizers, ultrahigh-pressure Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5·81, 3·223 prawn crackers, water as foaming gas pressure fryers and, for Kentucky 83 proteins. See also dairy products; fa y for, 4·254 Fried Chicken, 2·120–121 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso o, acids; meats; speci c foods prawns. See also langoustines pressure steamers and, heat transfer 3·308 conformation of, 1·156 biology of, 3·28, 31 in, 1·319 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, curds of cooking sous vide, parametric recipe pressure-marinating and, 3·198 2·301 best bets for, 4·104 for, 3·103 how to, 3·207 pressure-cooking plant foods, Cocoa Nib Curd, 4·105 Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er, 3·100 pressure-shi freezing and, physics 3·298–309 Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107 Pu ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190 of, 1·309 best bets for, 3·300 parametric recipe for, 4·104 in Seafood Paper, 3·188 pro ling, for espresso, 4·375 pressure-marinating, 3·198 dehydrating foods and, 1·296 Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 technology of, 4·400 how to, 3·207 in  sh, 3·20 Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107 solubility of gases in water and, pressure-shi freezing, physics of, as foaming agent, 4·244, 247 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347 1·333, 4·256 1·309 folding of, 1·156 Spot Prawn and Lotus Root speci c heat and, 1·266–267 pretenderized meat, hazards with, 1·176 frozen, aromatic compounds and, Tempura with Smoked White Soy ultrahigh, to kill bacteria, 1·149 Prial, Frank, 4·331 2·261 Sauce, 5·197, 201 vacuum, 2·391, 447 Priestley, Joseph, 2·464 in gelatin, 4·67 Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215 primal cuts, of meat, 3·44 gelling agents from, 4·69 4·233 water, in espresso-making, 4·384 primary emulsion, 4·206 with heat, for thickening, 4·7 Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183 pressure canners. See also pressure Primitivo grape, Zinfandel and, 4·326 marinating and, 3·190 precipitates, supersaturated solutions cookers Pringles, history of, 3·330 in meat, 3·6 and, 1·332 cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91 “printed food,” 1·67, 69, 71 nonmeat, fat incorporation into precooking, sous vide, for deep-frying, for extracting and infusing  avors, prions sausage with, 3·225 2·123 2·251 diseases caused by, 1·156, 157–159, proteolytic enzymes, 3·195 precursor molecules, in  avor reactions, how to use, 2·89 160 protists, 1·126–129 enzymes and, 2·335, 338 pressure cookers vs., 2·85–86 brain and, 1·156–157 foodborne illnesses in U.S. and, predator satiation (saturation), 3·284 for sous vide cooking, 2·233 conformations of, 1·158 1·111 pregelatinized starch cracker, pu ed, sterilization using, 2·250 politics and, 1·160–161 as foodborne pathogens, 1·108 parametric recipe for, 4·302 venting, 2·86–87, 291–292 in United States, 1·111 Prudhomme, Paul, New American pregelatinized starch paste pressure cookers as foodborne pathogens, 1·109 cuisine and, 1·28, 29 Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29 browning starch for roux with, 4·22 names for, 1·112 prune coals for thick foams, parametric recipe collagen conversion into gelatin in, processed foods carbon dioxide in sugar glass for, for, 4·278–279 3·79 cheese as, history of, 4·222 4·254 pregnancy, foodborne illnesses and, excess heat in, 2·291 preservatives in, 1·144 edible, how to make, 4·314–315 1·127, 134 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 professional chefs. See chefs, Prune Coals recipe, 5·17 preheating pressure canners vs., 2·85–86, 89 professional; individual chefs’ names Prusiner, Stanley, 1·156 for baking, 2·102–103 for sous vide cooking, 2·233 programmability PSE (pale so exudate), adrenaline and, for deep-frying, 2·116 sterilization using, 2·250 in combi ovens, 2·168–169, 172–173 3·34 preinfusion, in pulling an espresso shot, stock preparation with, 2·283, of heating/chilling baths, 2·255 Pseudoterranova decipiens, 1·122–123 4·384 291–294 of PID controllers, 2·230, 238 psychrometric charts, how to read, prepared foods, wide availability of, for tomato sauces, 3·276 progressive smoking, 2·148 1·323 1·22–23 for tough cut cooking, 3·95 propane, for gas grills, 2·11 PTW (Australian architectural  rm), presentation, cognitive science of, 4·335 venting proportional-integral-derivative 4·246 preservatives. See also additives; food before sealing, 2·291–292 controllers. See PID (proportional- public health, food safety rules and, preservation spring-loaded valves for, 2·86–87 integral-derivative) controllers 1·169–170 chemical, bacterial growth and, pressure  ltration propylene glycol alginate publication bias, nutritional studies 1·144–145 characteristics of, 2·352, 353–355, for edible  lms, parametric recipe and, 1·219 fresh juice taste and color and, 2·238, 358 for, 4·60 Puck, Wolfgang 239 clarifying juice with, 2·355 as foam stabilizer, 4·257 food and restaurant empire of, 1·31 popular perception of, 1·250 equipment for, 2·286 interactions with other thickeners, New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29 Preserved Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, pressure fryers, for Kentucky Fried 4·44–45 New International cuisine and, 1·30 5·219, 220 Chicken, 2·120–121 product guide for, 4·IV–V preserved eggs, parametric recipe for, pressure gauges, atmospheric pressure properties and uses of, 4·42–43 4·82 and readings of, 2·86–87

XCVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 98 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM RARE BEEF SAUSAGE R

pudding. See also blood sausage purees (continued) (pudding) Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, Pistachio Puree, 2·427 127 potato, best bets for, 3·297 Q R Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104 Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8 quail rabbit Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31 Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Popcorn Pudding, 4·181 seasonal mélanges with, 3·295 for, 3·99, 108 for, 3·96, 109 Pu ed Chicken Feet, 3·133 Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion leg muscles of, 3·7 Pu ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138 Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282 and Water Chestnuts, 3·101 Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242 Pu ed Chickpeas, 4·307 vegetable quail eggs wild, risks of eating, 1·138 Pu ed Cockscomb, 3·133 best bets for, 2·425 Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99 Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29 Pu ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190 mechanics of, 3·279 Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83 Rack of Lamb with Garlic plated-dish pu ed skin parametric recipe for, 2·424–425, Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125 recipe, 5·25–29 pork rinds and, making of, 3·129 435 quiche  lling, parametric recipe for, radiation (radiant heat) on pork roast, how to make, sous vide cooking for, best bets for, 4·92 adding cream to co ee and, 1·289 3·126–127 3·290 quinces charcoal grills and, 2·10–11 vicinal water and, 3·122, 123 puri cation, of toxins from the body, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe convection baking using, 2·110–111 pu ed snacks, 4·302–309 1·248 for, 3·291 cooking food unevenly with, 3·314 best bets for, 4·302 PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics, food Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121 dark-surfaced pans and, 2·38 Cheese Pu s, 4·305 safety and, 2·207, 3·241 raw vs. cooked, 3·275 fourth-power relationship to example recipes for, 4·303–309, PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone), as quinoa temperature of, 1·287 5·197, 202  ning agent, 2·360 Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito heat transfer with, 1·277, 284–286 parametric recipe for, 4·302 pyrolysis Stock Veil, 4·168 hot spots in baking and, 2·112 Pu ed Chickpeas, 4·307 co ee roasting and, 4·362 Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129 microwave ovens and, 2·182 pulao, Candied Orange and Carrot food safety and bi er taste from, quorum sensing, by bacteria, 1·134 physics of shiny griddles and, 1·284 Pulao, 5·94 3·91 roasting and, 2·28, 32–33 Pulled Mushroom, 3·396 overcooking and, 3·94 sweet spot of grills and, 2·14–17 Pulled Pork Shoulder, 5·67, 78 of wood, 2·135, 137 radiation, ultraviolet. See ultraviolet pulp, plant juice browning and, 2·338 radiation pulped natural process, for co ee, 4·358 radishes Pulpo a la Greca plated-dish recipe, Nukazuke, 3·354 5·193–195 preserving, parametric recipe for, pulses,  ours milled from, 3·376 3·348 pulverizing. See also grinding; milling ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129 mathematics of power to pulverize raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins, and, 2·401 5·157, 159 Pumpjack Winery, 4·345 Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250 pumps Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247 aquarium Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247 foam forming with, 4·258, 260 ramps for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241 Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118 vacuum. See vacuum pumps Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112 Pure-Cote B790 Ramsay, Gordon for edible  lms, parametric recipe Modernist cuisine and, 1·63 for, 4·60 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality thickening with, 4·30 of, 1·28 parametric recipe for, 4·30 rancidity pureeing of freeze-dried meat, 2·447 colloid mills for, 2·398–399 of frozen food, 1·306 of colloidal suspensions from, 4·12 of reused deep-frying oil, 2·125 meat, steps in, 3·231 of saturated vs. unsaturated oils, Pacojet for, 2·406–411 2·126 strategies for, 2·400 randomized clinical trials, 1·218 purees. See also pureeing of cholesterol-lowering drug and Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171, heart disease, 1·227 173 of dietary fat and cancer, 1·233 Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207 of dietary fat and heart disease, Black Olive Puree, 4·230 1·229, 230–231 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, of dietary  ber and colorectal cancer, 2·426 1·217 Con t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148 of nutrition, 1·220 cooking fruits or vegetables sous of omega-3 fats and heart disease, vide for, 3·290 1·232 cryofreezing and, 2·458 of salt and hypertension, 1·234 Date Puree, 5·121, 122 of vitamin supplements, 1·235 frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446 of weight loss plans, 1·240, 241 fruit randomized intervention trials, 1·214 best bets for, 2·425 Rankine temperature scale, 1·266 cooking sous vide, 3·290 Rao, Hayagreeva, 1·26 parametric recipe for, 2·425 rapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126 ground fruits or vegetables as, 3·376 rare beef jus, parametric recipe for, Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and 2·344–345 Tru e Puree, 4·114 Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249

INDEX XCIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 99 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM R RARE FLATIRON STEAK

Rare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50 red cabbage (continued) reheating Reyns, 4·6 rare salmon jus, parametric recipe for, Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and of mass-market ready-to-eat foods, rhubarb 2·344–345 Cabbage Juice, 2·389 2·265 as acidi er, 2·314 Ras el Hanout, 2·405 red currants, as acidi er, 2·314 modern thickeners and, 4·5 compressing, parametric recipe for, raspberries Red Dye # 2, 1·252 in sous vide cooking, 2·242, 262, 264 3·390 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, red  esh, in tuna, 3·21 thickener selection and, 4·15 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 3·366 red hot, 1·287 rehydration for, 3·290 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, red kidney beans, natural toxins of, of freeze-dried foods, 2·447 impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·372 1·249 physics of dehydration and, 1·321 3·390 in Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·278 red meat. See also speci c meats relative humidity natural toxins of, 1·249 ratings, for wines, 4·338–339 animals producing, 3·14–15 boiling point of water and, 2·163 preserving, parametric recipe for, Ratio:  e Simple Codes Behind the Cra breast cancer and, 1·221 drying foods and, 2·428 3·348 of Everyday Cooking (Ruhlman), 1·95 combi ovens vs. water bath cooking equilibrium, 2·430 Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279 Rational combi ovens of, 2·167–168 measuring, 1·322 rhubarb water, parametric recipe for, comparing cooking modes for, 2·169 in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17 on psychrometric charts, how to 2·374–375 cooking strategies for, 2·170 poultry, sous vide cooking, best bets read, 1·323 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard e ective cooking temperatures in, for, 3·99 water vapor and, 1·320–321, 325, Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97 2·165 tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78 2·154 ribose, 3·89 heat and humidity control in, in tuna, biology of, 3·21 relative risk, nutritional studies and, rice 2·163–165, 167 red pearl onions, Compressed Dill 1·219 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304 invention of, 2·154 Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58, 67 Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75 Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, program cooking with, 2·169 red wine Renaud, Serge, 1·228 5·94 testing heat and humidity control in, Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, rendering Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177 2·156–157 221 bromelain for, 3·195 Crispy Dosa, 3·355 Rautureau,  ierry, Spot Prawns with Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105 cryorendering and Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice Foie Gras Nage recipe, 4·233 Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102 of subcutaneous fat, 3·122 and Sea Le uce, 3·149 raw foods. See also speci c foods Red-Onion Cream, 3·68 before vacuum packing, 2·268 Paella Rice, 5·239, 241 diet of, 1·247–249 reductions of fat from meat tissue, 3·83 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso o, FDA Food Code on, 1·182, 184 for concentrating  avor, 2·379–380 methods for, 3·122 3·308  avors of, 3·87 emulsi ed bu erfat in cream and, strategies for, 3·145 pu ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302 food safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178 4·205 rennet, as gel coagulant, 4·70 Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129 foodborne illness risks with, 1·191 extracting  avors using stocks vs., reserve bo ling of wine, taste of Riso o Milanese, 3·306–307 freezing 2·288 ordinary wine bo ling vs., 4·340 smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362 FDA on time and temperature for,  avor release by, 4·11 reservoir chillers (water baths), 2·238 Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119 1·186 modern, for thickening, 4·19 restaurants. See also Modernist cuisine; thickening with, parametric recipe water types and, 1·305–306 scaling using baker’s percentages speci c restaurants for, 4·28 hygiene and, 1·196 and, 1·96 food safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178 Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59 plants as, biology of digesting, 3·269 for thickening, 4·5, 7 Restaurant Apriori, 1·70 rice bran, Nukazuke, 3·354 tartares and meat as, 3·62–69 thickening by, various methods of, Restaurant Hanner, 1·70 rice cookers, for sous vide cooking, 2·240 example recipes for, 3·65–68 4·11 Restaurante Calima, 1·57 rice crisp water in, weight of, 3·79, 83 thickening sauces, jus, or glazes resting parametric recipe for, 4·302 raw milk cheese with, 2·346 a er brining, 3·156 Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32 FDA safe cooking standards for, vacuum. See vacuum reduction chilling and, 2·254 rice  our, 3·376 1·170 Redzepi, René myth of, baking and, 2·105 rice  our pasta and, parametric French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171, Edible Earth recipe, 4·37 panfrying and, 2·38 recipe for, 3·381 173 at elBulli, 1·39 reheated food, 2·264 rice starch, 4·20, 28 Raw Okra, 5·90, 97 on Le Gargouillou, 3·294 restrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196 rice stick noodles, Pad  ai, 3·385 raw packing, boiling-water canning and, Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Restructured Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14 rice vinegar, Soy Vinegar Infusion, 2·77 Tru e Puree recipe, 4·114 restructured meat 5·253, 256 Rayleigh sca ering, 2·124, 4·203 Modernist cuisine and, 1·70 meat glue and, 3·250–256 Rich Brown Stock, 2·297 razor clams re ectivity sausage as. See sausages Richot, Charles, 1·238 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe broilers and, 2·19, 22 Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330 rico a cheese for, 3·103 grills and, 2·15 resveratrol, heart disease and, 1·228 Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico a noroviruses and, 1·155 radiant heat and, 1·284–285 retort bags, plastic/ exible Dumpling, 5·273, 274 Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 5·197, 199 refraction, index of, 4·203 for canning, 2·77 Goat Milk Rico a, 4·108 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112 refrigeration. See also chilling heat transfer in, 1·319 parametric recipe for, 4·104 ready-to-eat food. See also sous vide of cold-smoked food, 2·143 heating requirements and duration Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49 marketing of, 2·265 food preservation and, 2·252 for, 2·79 Rienzner, Cristiano, 1·70 recall bias, nutritional studies and, 1·218 proper, importance of, 2·257 reverse osmosis (RO) rigid containers, vacuum packing using, recipes sel rose as curing salt and, 3·162 concentrating  avor with, 2·379, 396 2·226–227 format for, 1·93, 96 sous vide cooking and storage using, food industry uses for, 1·335 rigor mortis, in muscle a er slaughter, in Modernist Cuisine, 1·92–101 2·206–207, 208 by kidneys, 3·141 3·32, 34 credit for, 1·100–101 of un nished bo les of wine, 4·346 for purifying water, 1·335 rille es types of, 1·97–100. See also example refrigerators water for espresso-making and, 4·384 Beef Shank Rille e, 5·49, 52 recipe entries; parametric recipe for cook-chill sous vide, 2·255 wine and, 4·330 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille es, entries temperature control in, 1·205–207 reverse spheri cation, 4·184, 187, 5·254 5·233, 235 scaling, baker’s percentage for, thawing using, 2·263 revolution rinsing, a er brining, 3·156, 158 1·95–97 regional American cooking, 1·28 cuisine and, 1·18–20 ripening red cabbage regulations, U.S., on food safety, cultural change and, 1·16–18 on command, how to, 3·285 Red Coleslaw, 5·67, 72 1·165. See also U.S. Food and Drug at low end of cooking and eating, of cured meat or seafood, 3·167, 173 Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105 Administration 1·20–22 of fruit, 3·283–284 in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35 Nouvelle cuisine, 1·24, 26–31 sous vide technique of, 2·250 La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26 synchronized, chemistry of, 3·284

C INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 100 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM SOUS VIDE SALMON S

Ripert, Eric Roca, Joan Rothschild, Philippe de, 4·350 Escolar with Red Wine Bu er recipe, biography of, 1·58 3·104 as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258 roasting without turning vs. using, Fluke Ceviche recipe, 3·203 Eggplant Foam recipe, 4·280 2·32–33 S New International cuisine and, 1·30 Modernist cuisine and, 1·57 sous vide vs., 2·228 sabayon pot-au-feu of, 5·49 Oysters with Cava Foam recipe, rotors Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148 r i s o o 4·277 in colloid mills, 2·413–414 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune best bets for, 3·305 rotary evaporation and, 2·388 in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413 Sabayon, 3·363 example recipes for, 3·306–309 Smoked Octopus recipe, 3·215 rotor-stator homogenizers Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot parametric recipe for, 3·304–305 Sous Vide Cuisine by, 1·83 breaking down food with, 2·400 Sabayon, 4·274 Riso o Milanese, 3·306–307 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot dispersing thickeners with, 4·24 sable sh, cold-smoking, parametric starch release during cooking of, and Orange Sauce recipe, 3·110 egg emulsions and, 4·226 recipe for, 3·210 3·282 Roche, Ben, 1·69 emulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209 safety. See also food safety r i s t r e o s rock salt for brine, table salt vs., 2·260 foam forming with, 4·252 cryogen handling, 2·464, 466–467 blonding phase and, 4·388 Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395 friction e ects in, 1·274 liquid nitrogen and, 2·459, 464, 466 brewing, skill of choosing example recipes for, 2·394 hydration of ion-coagulated gels meat grinding or chopping tools and, temperature for, 4·385 rocket widget, in Guinness beer cans, with, 4·124 3·233 evolution of, 4·379 4·250 hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38 with microwave oven, 2·190 Ri inger’s law, 2·401 rock sh, cooking sous vide, parametric for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 Modernist cooking and, 1·101 Ritz, César, 1·20 recipe for, 3·102 for shearing gels into  uids, 4·176 with pressure cooker, 2·291–292,  e River Café, New American cuisine Roellinger, Olivier wet-grinding with, 2·413, 420–421 3·298 and, 1·28, 29 Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 2·405 roundworms, 1·120–123 steam burns and, 1·319, 2·154 RNA, in viruses, 1·152 Indies Spice Blend recipe, 2·403 anisakid, 1·122–123 sa ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126 RO. See reverse osmosis 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123 sa ron extract, parametric recipe for, roast. See also roasting; speci c foods Sherry and Cocoa recipe, 3·107 Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis; 2·326 derivation of term, 2·101 roller mills, for dry-grinding, 2·404 trichinellosis Sa ron Honey Foam, 5·94 FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174 rolling boil, blanching using steam vs., roux sa ron infusion, parametric recipe for, sous vide vs. combi oven cooking of, 2·267  avor of reduced jus vs., 4·11 2·310 2·167–168 romaine le uce hydrocolloid dispersion in, 4·38 salads. See also coleslaw Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132 Caesar Salad, 3·373 technique of, 4·20, 22 Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172 Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175, 177 Smoked Le uce, 5·11, 15 Roux, Albert, 1·28, 41 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43, roasted hazelnut oil extract, parametric Roman Empire Roux, Michel, Nouvelle cuisine in the 47 recipe for, 2·326 cookbook of, 1·10. See also Apicius U.K. and, 1·28 Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253, gastronomy of, 1·10–12 Rouxl Britannia restaurants, 1·41 5·94 255 Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, royale custard, parametric recipe for, Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87 roasted-hazelnut oil, Hazelnut “Cream,” 87 4·92 Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 4·236 Rømer, Ole, measuring speed of light rubs, dry 5·167, 169 roasting, 2·28–35 and, 2·191 Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68 Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191 of beer can chicken, science of, 2·109 Romera, Miguel Sánchez Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68 Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138 calculations for, 2·28, 32 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté parametric recipe for, 3·168–172 Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275 cutaway illustration of, 2·104–105 and, 4·32 Ruhlman, Michael, 1·44, 95 Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry extended and simpli ed 6D tapioca starch gel product by, 4·29 Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham Salad, 5·277, 278 Salmonella reduction guidelines Romesco Sauce, 2·419 recipe, 3·183 Potato Salad, 5·67, 73 for, 1·190 Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven, Ruscalleda, Carme Pu ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138 historical uses of, 1·16 2·34–35 as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258 Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto of meat root vegetables. See also speci c root crisping  sh skin by, 3·129 Salad, 4·53 jus formation and, 2·343 vegetables , early gastronomy of, 1·8, 10 salamander whole, FDA Food Code on oven Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 Russian Pelmeni plated-dish recipe, browning in, a er sous vide cooking, temperatures for, 1·186 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309 5·233–237 2·272–273 whole, FDA Food Code on time Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212 as original broiler, 2·18, 20 and temperature for, 1·182–183, roots, gelling agents from, 4·126 rutabagas salami, parametric recipe for, 3·244–245 184 rose petals cooking sous vide, parametric recipe salinity pot-roasting as. See pot-roasting Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172 for, 3·289, 290 of brined and cured food, 3·152 program cooking in combi oven for, Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368 preserving, parametric recipe for, for brining, 3·154, 156, 158 2·169 rose water, distillation of, 2·390 3·348 for curing, 3·160 Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven rosemary extract, parametric recipe for, Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 measuring, 2·313 for, 2·34–35 2·326 in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35 during brining, 3·158 spit-roasting as, 2·32–33 rose a pa ern, for ca è la es, 4·392, Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 salmon turning or not turning in, 2·32–33 394–395 Rye Bread, 5·55, 59 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, of whole hog, 2·30–31 rotary evaporators, 2·384–394 3·210 Robuchon, Joël boiling point vs. vacuum pressure in, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe on Adrià as chef, 1·39 2·391 for, 3·102 mashed potatoes of, 1·37, 58 for concentrating  avor, 2·379, 380 diet and  esh color of, 3·93 New International cuisine and, 1·30 distillation using, 1·94, 2·384, Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality 388–391 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212 of, 1·27 essential oils and, 2·320 Salmon Custard, 4·119 Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297 manufacturers of, 2·384 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155 restaurants of, 1·31 for Modernist kitchen, 2·285 Salmon Rus plated-dish recipe, Shell sh Custard recipe, 4·162 parts of, 2·386–387 5·161–165 sous vide cooking and, 1·41, 42, 43, Rocket, Genevac, 2·391–395 Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68 2·195 rotary vegetable slicers, Japanese, 3·327 in sorrel sauce, as  rst plated dish, Robusta co ee beans, 4·358 rotavaps. See rotary evaporators 1·25 rotaviruses, 1·155 Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162

INDEX CI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 101 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM S SALMON SKIN SOUFFLÉ

Salmon Skin Sou é, 5·161, 163 Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151 sauces (continued) sautéing, 2·44–47 Salmonella spp. salted , Fossilized Salsify Pressure-Cooked Polenta with covered, 2·58–61 CDC on foods associated with, 1·180 Branch, 3·399 Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 chao technique and, 2·54 “danger zone” temperatures and, salting. See also brining; curing Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75 cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61 1·176, 177, 178–179 example recipes for, 3·350–351, 354 Sauce Allemande, 4·88 searing or glazing before, 2·58 extended and simpli ed 6D of  sh, scombroid poisoning and, Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116  ipping food in, 2·46–47 reduction guidelines for, 1·190 1·139 Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145 heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277 FDA Food Code on cooking pork parametric recipe for, 3·348–349 smoking and application of, 3·211 pan selection for, 2·45 and, 1·179 protein gel of meat and seafood and, Sofrito, 5·239, 243 tips for, 2·44 FDA Food Code on thermal death 3·84 stocks for, 2·288 Savoy, Guy curve for, 1·182–189 with salts other than sodium thickening strategies for, 2·346 Gras, Laurent and, 1·69  esh contamination and, 1·117 chloride, chemistry of, 3·157 vacuum evaporation for reducing, New International cuisine and, 1·30 as foodborne pathogens, 1·134 saltpeter 2·346 savoy cabbage FSIS on reduction of, 1·168 for dry-curing, 3·165 XO Sauce, 4·52 Sauerkraut, 3·351 misconceptions about, 1·118 for food preservation, 1·144–145 saucisson sec White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72 in poultry, FDA 2009 Food Code on, in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162 parametric recipe for, 3·244–245 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 1·175 salts Saucisson Sec, 3·247 5·167, 169 replication limits of, 1·145 curing sauerkraut Saxe, Godfrey, 3·220 Salmonella enterica, 1·132, 145 cold-smoked food and, 2·143 about, 5·39 Scabin, Davide, 1·70 Salmonella enteritidis, 1·118 composition of, 3·161 Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39 scales Salmonella Heidelberg, 1·132 in fermented sausages, 3·222 Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35 temperature, 1·266, 285–286 Salmonella typhimurium, 1·132 in sausage, 3·226 sausage stu ers, 3·227, 232 for weight measurement salmon-poisoning  uke, 1·124 sel rose and, chemistry of, 3·162 sausages, 3·220–250. See also chorizo digital. See digital scales salsify sodium nitrate in, 3·158 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39 laboratory, for measuring cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for marinating, 3·190 basic principles of, 3·220, 222 thickeners, 4·23 for, 3·289 mineral, plant food cooking and, blood, history of, 3·220 scallions, Roasted Scallion Marmalade, Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399 3·278 Boudin Blanc, 3·243 5·253, 255 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and salting with salts other than sodium Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177 scallops Tru e Puree, 4·114 chloride and, chemistry of, 3·157 casing for biology of, 3·26, 27 Salsify Fondant, 5·205, 207 saltwater, shell sh  avors and, 3·27 preparation of, 3·226 Chawanmushi, 4·96 salt cod broth, parametric recipe for, salty brine. See ice-brine baths types of, 3·227 chicken skin glued to, 3·252 2·304–305 sampling error, in small-scale studies, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248 contamination of, 3·27–28 Salt Gel, 5·5, 9 1·218 coarse-ground, 3·220, 222 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe salt pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349 Sanders, Harland best bets for, 3·236–237 for, 3·103 salt (sodium chloride or table salt). See  e Colonel’s Chicken recipe, 3·336 cryosha ering for, 3·230 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, also brines; brining; curing; ice-brine franchises of, 1·31 parametric recipe for, 3·236–237 2·451 baths; salting innovations of, 1·21, 22 cold-smoked, 2·143 Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197, bi er  avors and, 5·227 pressure fryers and, 2·120 emulsi ed, 3·222, 225 202 for brine, rock salt vs., 2·260 trade secrets of, 1·76 best bets for, 3·238–239 Scallop Tartare, 3·67 characteristics of, 3·152, 154 sandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90 Emulsi ed Sausage with Fat Gel, in Seafood Paper, 3·188 Clostridium per ingens and, 1·141 sanitization, pasteurization vs., 2·250 3·248 shucking of, 3·52 concentration of, brining and, 3·154 Sant Pau. See Ruscalleda, Carme Emulsion-Style Sausages, 3·238–239 Scandinavia, early gastronomy of, 1·8, drying with, 2·430, 3·344 Santamaria, Santi, 1·63, 258 fat in, incorporating and holding, 10 in fermented sausage, 3·250 Sant’Eustachio Il Ca è, 4·374, 396 3·224–225 Schecter, Andy, 4·396 formation of, 4·126 Santini, Nadia, Nouvelle cuisine and, fermented. See fermented sausages Schilling, Hans and Marke a, 1·33, 34 freezing-point depression and, 1·305 1·28 Fermented Sausage, 3·244–245 schizophrenia, Toxoplasma gondii and, health and, 1·234, 236–237 Santos, Rafael García, 1·59 forming and  nishing, how to, 1·127 hypertension research and, 1·234 sarcomeres, in muscle, 3·6, 8–9 3·240–241, 246 Schlosser, Eric, 1·23 for juicing, 2·335 sardines Frankfurter, 3·242 Schlow, Michael, Achatz’s  rst meal at legislation regulating, 1·237 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe fresh, 3·222 elBulli and, 1·38 moisture absorbed by, 2·428 for, 3·102 Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249 schmaltz, chemistry of, 2·126 nucleation sites in boiling and, 1·316 Eggplant Foam, 4·280 gel (binding) for, making, 3·222–223 Schneider, Martin, 1·70 organic label for, 1·245 saturated condition, solubility and, Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85 schnitzels, 2·127 other salts for brining vs., chemistry 1·331 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, Schomer, David of, 3·157 saturated fat. See also cholesterol 3·210 on consistency, 4·396 production process for, 1·256 characteristics of, 1·222 Italian Sausage, 3·242 cooling burr grinders by, 4·376, 378 in sausage, 3·223 French cuisine and, 1·228 linking technique for, 3·230 espresso-making and, openness of, scaling using baker’s percentages saturated oils,  avor of unsaturated oils Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248 4·374 and, 1·96 vs., 2·126 meat gels and, 3·70 inventions by, 4·398 seasoning with, 2·312 saturated solutions, 1·331, 332 meat grinding or chopping tools for, Myhrvold and, 4·375 sel rose as saturation vapor pressure, 1·320 3·230–233 pro le of, 4·399 chemistry of, 3·162 sauces. See also barbecue sauces Modernist, 3·248–249 Schroeder, William, 1·62–63 composition of, 3·161 cheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223 other ingredients in, 3·225–227 Schultz, Howard, 4·398 solubility in water of, 1·331, 332 converting grams to volumes for, overcooking, precautions for, 3·233 Schwa, 1·69 weights and measures for, 1·94 5·XXXVII poach test for, 3·225 scienti c names, origin of, 1·112 salt-coagulated egg, parametric recipe cooling of, 1·206 pregrinding meat treatments for, scienti c research. See also double-blind for, 4·82  our-thickened,  avor release and, 3·228 trials; food science; randomized Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454, 4·11 Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249 clinical trials 5·185 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, sheets of, 3·241 food safety rules and, 1·166 Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20 2·451 stu ng, 3·227, 230 sCJD (sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob salted cod roe, Fossilized Salsify Jus Gras, 4·237 tenderness of, fat and, 3·224 disease) Branch, 3·399 Pasta Marinara, 3·386 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82 scombroid poisoning, spoiled  sh and, Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236 Sautéed Maitake Mushroom, 5·11, 15 1·139

CII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 102 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS S

scorching, of deep-fried foods, 2·125 seafood (continued) sedimentation shallots Scoville, Wilbur, 3·270 best bets for, 3·238 as draining in foams, 4·249 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Scoville Heat Units (SHU), 3·270 making a gel (binding) for, 3·222 as emulsion failure, 4·210 for, 3·289, 290, 292 scrambled eggs Seafood Paper, 3·188 seeds Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43, parametric recipe for, 4·92 searing before covered sautéing of, distribution of, ecology of, 3·265 47 Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216 2·58 hydrocolloids from, 4·124 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 scrapie, 1·157, 158 shell sh. See shell sh mustard, preserving, parametric shallow frying screw tops, for wine bo les, 4·344, 346 smoking, 3·208–219 recipe for, 3·348 amount of oil for, 2·127–128 sea bass, cooking sous vide, parametric best bets for, 3·210 seasonal mélanges with, 3·294 heat conduction in, 2·127 recipe for, 3·102 sources for, 5·XXXIII sesame, Pressure-Cooked Sesame Shanghai Soup Dumplings plated-dish sea cucumber tartares, 3·62–64, 66–69 Seeds, 3·303, 5·181 recipe, 5·253–256 about, 5·203 temperature and  avor of, 3·88–89 toxins in, and propagation of, 3·262 Shangri-La diet, 1·241 Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78 typical Shanker, Anjana, chaat masala made by, Maitake Mushroom, Shisito tenderness of, 3·10–11 fat content of, 5·XLIII 5·281 Pepper, 5·197, 203 seafood brine, basic, parametric recipe water content of, 5·XLI shark, Greenland, chemistry of, 3·43 sea le uce, 5·28 for, 3·168 sel rose Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177 sea urchin tongues seal meat, myoglobin in, 3·15 chemistry of, 3·162 shear forces Sea Urchin Bo arga, 3·186, 5·225, Sealed Air Corporation, 1·42 composition of, 3·161 in foam forming, 4·252 226 seals, for canning, 2·77 selection bias, nutritional studies and, viscosity of  uids and, 4·5–6 Sea Urchin Bu er, 5·225, 227 seam cu ing, 3·45, 47 1·219 shear-thinning  uids Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145 Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149 selenium, health bene ts of, 1·235 emulsions as, 4·204 Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245 self-cleaning combi ovens, 2·169  uid gels as, 4·16, 176 Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202 Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279 semiconvecting foods, pressure- as non-Newtonian  uids, 4·6 Shell sh Custard, 4·162 searing. See also cryosearing canning of, 2·88 whipped cream as, 4·248 Uni with Whipped Tofu and with charcoal vs. gas grills, 2·11 semidry sausages, 3·246, 250 sheep. See also lamb Tapioca, 4·285 in combi oven, convection mode for, semolina pasta scrapie in, 1·157 sea urchins, biology of, 3·30–31 2·168 parametric recipe for, 3·381 sheep liver  uke, 1·123 seafood. See also  sh; shell sh; speci c covered sautéing and, 2·58 Semolina Pasta, 3·382 shell sh. See also speci c shell sh types of seafood to crisp skin, 3·123 Senderens, Alain allergies to, 1·238 Activa as glue for, 3·250–256 extended and simpli ed 6D Duck Apicius and, 5·121 biology of, 3·26–28 blanching or searing before cooking, Salmonella reduction guidelines Foie Gras à la Vapeur recipe, 5·109 cooking sous vide 2·269 for, 1·190 Le Nouveau Guide on, 1·26 example recipes for, 3·107 brining, 3·152, 154, 156, 158 food safety and, 1·191 on wine pairings, 4·352 parametric recipe for, 3·102–103 best bets for, 3·172 frozen meat, 3·122 sensory science fat content of, 5·XLIII converting muscle into, 3·37–38, 40, before Jaccarding, 3·51 Blumenthal and, 1·50 plated-dish recipes for, 5·179–207 42 a la plancha, 2·40–41 of wine tasting, 4·337 raw, food safety and, 3·27–28 cooking for Maillard reaction, 3·95 sequestrants Shell sh Bu er, 2·329 color and appearance of, 3·92–93 for sealing juices in meat, myth of, calcium and, 4·126–127 Shell sh Custard, 4·162  avor and, 3·84, 87–91 3·85 coagulant molecules and, 4·72 Shell sh Omakase plated-dish grilling. See grilling for sous vide cooking, 2·267, 269, hydrating ion-coagulated gels with, recipe, 5·197–203 ideal temperature for, 3·89 270–275 4·125 smoked innards of, 3·142–143 temperatures for, 1·186–187 using, 4·129 example recipe for, 3·215 juiciness of, 3·79, 83 before vacuum packing vs. a er Sergi Arola Gastro, 1·57 parametric recipe for, 3·210 muscles and, 3·5 cooking, 2·268 serovars (serotypes), bacterial variants tender, cooking sous vide optics of, 3·93–94 seasonings. See also dry rubs; spice as, 1·132 best bets for, 3·103 skin of, 3·129–132 mixes; spices; speci c seasonings Serra, Richard, Yogurt Foam and Sweet parametric recipe for, 3·103 sous vide, 2·206, 276–279 converting grams to volumes for, Potato Chips recipe, 4·287 tough, cooking sous vide stages in, from raw to cooked, 3·76, 5·XXXVIII Serrano, Julian, New International best bets for, 3·108 78–79 meat and seafood, 3·88 cuisine and, 1·30 example recipes for, 3·112 succulence of, 3·83–84 with salt and other  avor enhancers, service à la Russe, 1·25 parametric recipe for, 3·108 tenderness of, 3·70 2·312 serving temperature shell sh consommé, parametric recipe trade-o s in, 3·94–95 with wine, beer, and spirits, 2·317 brewed co ee and, 4·364 for, 2·374–375 critical temperature for freeze- seasoning woks or frying pans, 2·53 gel selection and, 4·73 shell sh jus, parametric recipe for, drying, 2·446 Sea le, as co ee capital of the world, thickener selection and, 4·14–15 2·344–345 crustaceans, biology of, 3·28–31 history of, 4·398 , chemistry of, 2·126 shell sh sausage, parametric recipe for, cured Sea le’s Best Co ee, 4·398 sesame seeds, Pressure-Cooked Sesame 3·238–239 ripening of, 3·167, 171 seaweed Seeds, 3·303, 5·181 shell sh stock smoking of, 3·173 Bacon Dashi, 2·308 set foams, 4·288–301 parametric recipe for, 2·296–297 curing, 3·158, 160, 162 Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181 baked, water as secondary foaming Shell sh Stock, 2·297, 5·185, 186 best bets for, 3·172 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice gas for, 4·254 Shelton, Winston. See also CVap water- cu ing, 3·52–60 and Sea Le uce, 3·149 baked goods as, 4·245 vapor ovens fermenting, drying with warm air gelling agents from, 4·68, 126 best bets for, 4·288–289 on forced convection in ovens, 2·159 and, 2·433 Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197 example recipes for, 4·290–301 pressure fryers and, 2·120 frozen, handling and quality of, hydrocolloids from, 4·124 frozen, 4·245, 247 Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270 1·182 Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177 parametric recipe for, 4·288–289 Shigella spp., 1·134, 145 how muscle works in, 3·20–31 preserving, parametric recipe for, as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·244 Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Maillard reaction and  avor of, 3·348 vacuum-in ated, 4·252, 254, 310–315 Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 3·89–91 Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27 se ling period 5·197, 200 marinating, 3·190–207 Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315 in baking, 2·106 shiitake mushrooms mollusks, biology of, 3·24–26 thickening agents from, 4·5, 19 in deep-frying, 2·116–117 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe muscles in, 3·20–31 types of, 5·28 in drying, 2·431 for, 3·289 salting. See curing secondary emulsion, 4·206 Seven Countries Study, 1·225 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, sausage made from  e Secret Life of Germs (Tierno), 1·196 sha horsepower, 1·274 4·275

INDEX CIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 103 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM S SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

shiitake mushrooms (continued) skate (continued) Smoked Le uce, 5·11, 15 sodium alginate Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13 Skate in Black Bu er plated-dish Smoked Octopus, 3·215 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216 recipe, 5·157–159 Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57 as foam stabilizer, 4·257 Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7 Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157, Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38 grades of, 5·256 Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313 159 Smoked Potato Con t, 5·193, 195 interactions with other thickeners, Sweetbreads with Sour Mango skin, 3·116–135. See also chicken skin; Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune 4·44–45 Powder and Shiitake, 3·151 duck skin;  sh skin Sabayon, 3·363 product guide for, 4·IV–V shimeji mushrooms baking chicken upright and, 2·109 smoking, 2·132–149, 3·208–219. See also properties and uses of, 4·42–43 Compressed Dill Pickled of cephalopods, 3·24 barbecue; smoke for spheri cation, parametric recipe Vegetables, 5·55, 58 components of, 3·116 air  ow and temperature for, 2·137 for, 4·187 cooking sous vide, parametric cooking separately from meat, 3·122 capturing  avor in, 2·138 sodium benzoate, fresh juice color and, recipe for, 3·289 crisping, 3·123 chemicals and, 2·140 2·338 French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93 approaches to, 3·123 cold, 2·141–143, 3·61 sodium caseinate, for froths, parametric Shimomura, Koji, 1·70 a er cooking sous vide, 2·268 of dairy products recipe for, 4·264 shisito pepper, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea of  sh, 3·129 best bets for, 4·100 sodium citrate Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, slime as key to, 3·129 example recipes for, 4·101 hydrating ion-coagulated gels with, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203 of small  sh, how to, 3·130 of deep-frying oil, 2·124 4·126 SHMP. See sodium hexametaphosphate sous vide, of  sh, 3·131 of eggs, best bets for, 4·100 processed cheese food and, 4·222 shot glass, pulling espresso shot into, meat equipment for, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208 product guide for, 4·IV–V 4·384 cooking, 3·116–129, 133–135 of fermented sausages, 3·222 as sequestrant, 4·129 shrimp gluing on, 3·252  re for, 3·208, 211 sodium hexametaphosphate (SHMP) biology of, 3·28, 31 pu ng, 3·123 of  sh, scombroid poisoning and, for brining or curing, 3·157 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 so ening, 3·116, 118, 122–123 1·139 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe dried, Pad  ai, 3·385 skin-puncturing tool  esh surface in, 3·211 for, 4·165 Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167, for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 hot, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361 hydrating LA gellan with, 4·125 168 Peking Duck cooking using, 3·122 humidity and, 2·132 product guide for, 4·IV–V as seafood gel, 3·222 skyr, parametric recipe for, 4·56 by hunter-gatherers, 1·6 as sequestrant, 4·129 Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 slaughterhouse practices, 3·32, 34–35, making smoke for, 2·134, 137 for spheri cation, parametric recipe Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107 36 of meat for, 4·187 Shrimp Cocktail plated-dish recipe, Slayer espresso machine, 4·398, 400, example recipe for, 3·213 sodium nitrate, 3·158, 165 5·180–183 401 parametric recipe for, 3·210 sodium nitrite, 1·144–145, 3·165, 226 Spot Prawn and Lotus Root slicing myths and lore of, 2·145 sodium pyrophosphate, 4·IV–V Tempura with Smoked White Soy of  sh, for nigiri sushi, 3·60 of plant foods, 3·344, 361–363 sodium tripolyphosphate Sauce, 5·197, 201 of meat, 3·47, 50, 76 example recipe for, 3·363 for brining or curing, 3·157, 158 SHU (Scoville Heat Units), 3·270 slime, crispy skin and, physiology of, parametric recipe for, 3·362 in marinade, 3·143 SI units (Système International 3·129 progressive, 2·148 myosin extraction for sausage and, d’Unités), 1·272 Slow Food, history of, 1·23 regional specialties in, 3·218–219 3·223 Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313 slow-curing rub, parametric recipe for, ripening of cured meat or seafood Sofrito, 5·239, 243 side towels, cross-contamination and, 3·169 and, 3·173 so drinks 1·200 slow-twitch muscles of sausages, 3·240 carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254 Siebeck, Wolfram, 1·62 fast-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12 of shell sh ready-to-drink, 1·20 sieving. See also  l t e r i n g fat content and, 3·18 example recipe for, 3·215 so -boiled eggs equipment for, 2·286 in meat, 3·11–12 parametric recipe for, 3·210 parametric recipe for, 4·79 for  ltering, 2·351, 353 meat color and, 3·14–15 smoke temperature in, 2·140–141 perfect, how to, 4·79 signature dishes, Modernist cuisine at slug-and-column boiling, 1·316, 318, tapeworms and, 1·124 process for, 4·74 elBulli vs., 1·37 2·68–69 temperature for, 2·132, 135 So -Boiled Egg and Garlic silica gel slurry method, for Activa bonds, 3·256 wet vs. dry food and, 2·141 Emulsion, 4·227 desiccant properties of, 2·428, 433 small dense low-density lipoproteins wood choices for, 2·136 sole freeze-dried food storage and, (sdLDL), 1·226, 227 snails cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 2·447 small-scale scienti c studies, 1·218 biology of, 3·26 for, 3·102 silicone mats, 2·286 SMC (super methylcellulose), for cooking sous vide, parametric recipe in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149 silicone molds, 2·286 cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 3·108 sole meunière and, science of, 3·40 silicone oven mi s, conduction in, for, 4·170, 171 farmed, 5·243 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot 1·280 smells. See aromas; odors Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243 Sabayon, 4·274 Silken Tofu, 4·113 Smith, Clark, on dealcoholization, 4·331 snapper Soler, Juli, 1·33, 34, 38 smoke. See also smoking cooking sous vide, parametric recipe solids boiling vs., 1·316 capturing  avor of, 2·138 for, 3·102 bulking, hydrocolloid hydration and, de nition of, 1·317 chemistry of  avor and, 2·12 Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168 4·40 simple syrup, as reduction, 4·11 hot vs. cold, 2·140–141 Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169 dissolved, reduction and, 4·11 simulations, computer. See computer liquid SNCF (French railway system), sous as foaming agents, 4·244 simulation models chemistry of, 2·149 vide cooking and, 1·41 Fourier on heat conduction through, Sinclair, Upton, 3·35 for cold-smoking, 3·361 soap, as surfactant, 4·202 1·278 single-disc mills, for dry-grinding, making, 2·134, 137 Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245 hot, physics of blowing on, 1·288 2·404 smell of, appeal to humans, 3·208 “ e Socrates of the Nouvelle Cuisine,” internal energy of, 1·264 sinks, cross-contamination and, 1·200 temperature of, 2·140–141 1·26 physics of, 1·301 Siphoned Sou é á la Lorraine, 4·297 smoke condensates, drenching food soda siphon, 2·286 phase changes and thermal energy Siphoned Tempura Ba er, 5·143, 144 with, 2·149 soda water from, 1·290 siphons. See soda siphon; whipping smoke gun, packing and lighting, how Priestley’s “ xed air” and, 2·464 radiant heat from, 1·285 siphons to, 3·214 taste of, 2·465 rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIII skate smoke points, of frying oils, 2·116, 125, sodas as solvents, 1·330 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 126 carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254 suspended, molding gels with, how for, 3·102 Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101 ready-to-drink, 1·20 to, 4·133 smoked  sh, example recipe for, 3·212 sodium, ion-exchange  lters and, 1·335 suspension in, gel selection and, 4·73

CIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 104 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM SPOILAGE BACTERIA S

solubility. See also dissolved materials sous vide methods (continued) Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154 species, in scienti c naming system, concentration of solution and, 1·331 for slabs of meat with width and Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346 1·112 of polar solids, 1·330 length  ve times its thickness, Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194 speci c heat solubility limit, 1·331 2·279 Sous Vide Pigeon O al, 5·125, 130 calculating e ciency using, 1·275 solubles concentration, brewing control cooking to speci c temperatures Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313 de nition of, 1·266–267 chart on, 4·366–367 and, 2·243–247 Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102 heat capacity of cookware and, 1·278 solubles yield, brewing control chart on, de nition of, 2·195, 197 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347 how liquid nitrogen boils and, 4·366–367 development of, 2·252, 265 Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242 science of, 2·457 solutes, 1·330 equipment for, 2·228–241. See also Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349 measuring of, 1·268 solutions, 1·330. See also dissolved equipment; speci c types of Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 speci c heat capacity materials; solubility equipment Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162 of common kitchen materials, 1·267 Solvay process, 1·255 for home use, 1·73 Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169 de nition of, 1·266–267 solvent extraction, of essential oils, extended and simpli ed 6.5D Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32 spectrum. See also emission spectra 2·320 Salmonella reduction for, 1·193 Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33 heat rays on, 1·284 solvents, 1·330 extracting  avors with, 2·251 Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50 infrared, 1·287 sonicators, 2·398 FDA rules on, 1·182, 186, 189 Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347 Spectrum diet, 1·242 Sontheimer, Carl, 2·412 food poisoning and, 1·138 Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303 Spencer, Percy, 1·22, 2·182–183 sorbet holding food at target temperature Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147, 149 spheres, molding gel into, 4·135 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311 and, 2·247–249 South Beach Diet, 1·242 spheri cation, 4·184–195 pacotizing, 2·406, 407, 408–409 at home, history of, 1·73 South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70 Adrià’s use of, 1·39, 4·184 Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279 infusing  avors with, 2·251 South Carolina hospital food, AGS alginate for, 4·127 sorbitan esters, as surfactant liquid nitrogen and, 2·459 system of vacuum packing for, 1·40 best bets for, 4·187 emulsi ers, 4·216–217 low-temperature steam mode for, Southern barbecue, hot-smoking and, with cryogens, 4·184 sorbitol 2·157 3·211 direct, 4·130, 186 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for mass-market dinners, 2·265 soy, foaming agent in, 4·251 evolution of, 5·256 for, 4·165 New York City health department soy curd. See also tofu example recipes for, 4·188–195 for hot gels, parametric recipe for, rules on, 1·188, 195 traditional method for, 4·102 hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70 4·160 packaging food for. See vacuum soy gels, parametric recipe for, melon juice beads due to, 4·48 Sørensen, Søren Peter Lauritz, 3·194 packing 4·116–117 parametric recipe for, 4·186–187 sou és pasteurizing for storage using, soy lecithin reverse, 4·187, 5·254 cutaway illustration of, 4·248–249 2·249–250 de-oiled, for airs and froths, suspending solids in gelled spheres Gruyère Sou é, 4·301 reheating and, 2·242, 262, 264 parametric recipe for, 4·264 and, 4·187 Salmon Skin Sou é, 5·161, 163 ripening technique using, 2·250 product guide for, 4·II–III spice mixes as set foam, 4·247–248 searing and, 2·266–275 soy milk Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154 Siphoned Sou é á la Lorraine, 4·297 smoking using, 2·148 Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155 sound, Blumenthal’s use of, 1·50 steps in, 2·202–203 Soy Milk, 4·58 Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212 soup, Adrià’s method for serving, 1·52 stocks and, 2·302 soy oil, hydrogenated, chemistry of, Spiced Ash, 5·17, 22 Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), 4·117, temperature control with, 2·126 Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330 5·55, 59 2·230–231 soy sauce Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123 sour  avor, co ee brewing and, 4·364 thawing or cooking foods directly Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109, 111 sour mango powder, Sweetbreads with from freezer and, 2·258, 262 Vinaigre e, 5·181, 183 Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155 Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake, 3·151 water baths for. See water baths smoking, parametric recipe for, spices Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279 water circulation control for, 3·362 for brining or curing, 3·158 sour vinegar pickles, parametric recipe 2·234–235 Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299 medieval cuisine and, 1·12 for, 3·349 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal Soy Vinegar Infusion, 5·253, 256 in sausage, 3·226 sous vide methods, 2·192–279 Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111 soy yuba, 5·205 seasonal mélanges with, 3·295 aging braises and pot roasts and, Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu toasting, 5·94 2·98 Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183 with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203 trading, discovery of New World aging technique using, 2·250 Sous Vide Baby Golden Beet, 5·233, Green Pea Yuba, 4·115 and, 1·14, 3·197 AGS system of vacuum packing and, 235 soybean oil, chemistry of, 2·126 spinach 1·40 Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349 soybeans, allergies to, 1·238 cooking bene ts of, 2·198–199, 201 Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7 spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle bene ts of, 3·267 blanching for, 2·266–275 Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340 (Csipetke), 4·117, 5·55, 59 sous vide, parametric recipe for, chilling strategies, 2·251–265 Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173 Spaghe i alle Vongole plated-dish 3·290 common myths about, science of, Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243 recipe, 5·229–231 Creamed Spinach, 4·55 2·206–207 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso o, 3·308 Spaghe i Carbonara, 3·384 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, con t, 2·128–129 Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353 spaghe i squash, Marinated Spaghe i 3·366 cook-chill. See cook-chill sous vide Sous Vide Cuisine (Roca), 1·58 Squash, 5·147, 149 E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 methods Sous Vide Duck Con t Pavé, 5·81, 82 Spago, 1·29 and, 1·169–170, 172, 195 cookers for, types of, 2·232–233 Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87 Spain puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 cooking foods directly from freezer Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303 early gastronomy of, 1·10 Spinach Paper, 3·369 and, 2·258, 262 Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110 Horchata drinks in, 4·59 spinalis dorsi, in pork and beef, 3·15 cooking strategies for, 2·204–205, Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·219, in uence on Western cuisine by, 1·14 spirits. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci c 242–251 221 Modernist cuisine in, 1·57 alcoholic beverages cooking times and Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235 Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28 distillation of, 2·384, 390 for cylinder-shaped food with Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147, 149 Spam, 1·21, 22–23 production process for liquor and, diameter 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·276 Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137 sparkling white wine. See also 1·256 for cylinder-shaped food with Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, Champagne seasoning with, 2·317 length 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·277 1·95–96, 4·228 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183 spit jacks for roasting, 2·28 for cylinder-shaped food with Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227 Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277 spit-roasting, 2·32–33 thickness about equal to Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330 Sparta, Greece, military cuisine in, 1·12, spi le, human, contamination by, 1·116, diameter, 2·278 Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271 13 117 Sous Vide Monk sh Pavé, 5·151, 155 spoilage bacteria, 1·133–134, 135

INDEX CV

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 105 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM S SPONGES

sponges, cross-contamination and, starches (continued) sterilization (continued) straining, for  ltering, 2·351, 353 1·200 modern, parametric recipe for, 4·30 modern con t preparation and, 2·128 strawberries spongiform encephalopathies, traditional, parametric recipe for, pasteurization vs., 2·249–250 compressing, parametric recipe for, transmissible, 1·156–159 4·28 in pressure-canning, 2·85, 88 3·390 sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease statins, heart disease and, 1·227 time to temperature using pressure- dehydrating, parametric recipe for, (sCJD), 1·157 statistical power, of nutritional studies, canning for, 2·89 3·366 spores, bacterial, food spoilage and, 1·220 Stewart Brothers Co ee, 4·398 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 1·136, 138–141 statistician, Gosset as, 4·251 stewing, 2·96–98. See also braising 3·372 Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura stators cutaway illustration of, 2·96–97 heat-treating, parametric recipe for, with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, in colloid mills, 2·413–414 pot-roasting or braising vs., 2·93 3·359 201 in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413 sti ness, gel selection and, 4·73 impregnating, parametric recipe for, Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4·233 steaks. See also beef Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 5·113, 119 3·390 spray dryer, example recipes for, 2·443 cooked, fats in, 1·233 stir-frying, 2·48–57. See also woks Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2·443 FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174 bao technique for, 2·54–55 Salad, 5·277, 278 Spray-Dried Bu ermilk, 2·443 in frying pan, cutaway illustration of, burners for, 2·48, 52, 56–57 Pressure-Cooked Polenta with spray-drying 3·72–73 chao technique for, 2·54, 56–57 Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 characteristics of, 2·438–441 vs. roasts, FDA Food Code on, 1·187 cutaway illustration of, 2·50–51, Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279 equipment for, 2·285, 430 steam. See also autoclaves; bubbles; 56–57 Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278 method for, 2·442 evaporation; steaming heat transfer in, 2·48 Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278 spreads blanching using, 2·267 seasoning woks or frying pans for, Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11 cheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223 boiling and, 2·65, 68–69 2·53 strawberry chips, parametric recipe for, Olive Oil Spread, 4·51 burns from, 1·319, 2·154 stirred baths, for sous vide cooking, 3·328 Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86 condensing, heat transfer coe cient 2·234 stress, slaughterhouse practices and, 3·34 spring-loaded valves, for pressure of, 1·283 stirring. See also magnetic stirring bar stretching phase, in milk steaming, cookers, 2·86–87 in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117, boundary layer and, 1·283 4·391 Square Mile Co ee, 4·396 118–119, 125 before poaching eggs, physics of, 2·67 strong co ee, brewing and, 4·364 squash. See also speci c types of squash distillation, of essential oils, 2·318, Stock eth’s method, for grooming Stu ed Clam, 5·229, 231 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 320 espresso, 4·381 Stu ed Morels, 5·113, 117 for, 3·289 as foaming gas, 4·254 stocks Stu ed Smoky Braised Eggplant, 5·99 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, heat of vaporization of water and, aromatics for, 2·298 Stupak, Alex 3·366 1·296 brown Aerated Co ee Ice Cream recipe, Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63 low-temperature, use of term, 2·155 Brown Beef Stock, 2·301 4·312 squid in shallow frying, 2·127–128 Brown Bu er Fumet, 5·157, 158 Pistachio Puree recipe, 2·427 biology of, 3·24 as water phase, 1·300 Brown Veal Stock, 2·300 Whipped Cheese recipe, 4·272 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe zones of, 1·318 rich, parametric recipe for, 2·297 sturgeon for, 3·108 steam mode Rich Brown Stock, 2·297 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe scoring to tenderize, 3·56 in combi ovens, 2·167 concentrating  avor of, 2·380 for, 3·102 in Seafood Paper, 3·188 in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158–159 cooling of, 1·206 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5·233, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113 in ovens, pros and cons of, 2·155–156 example recipes for, 2·300–301, 303 235 squid ink steam wands  avor extraction for sauces and, 2·288 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille es, Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131 foam forming with, 4·258 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 5·233, 235 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso o, to froth milk, 4·391 2·451 “Styrofoam” Cup and Lid, 5·247, 3·397 Steamed Blancmange, 4·296 Onion Stock, 5·261, 264 248–249 Ssamjang Paste, 5·285, 287 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 4·32 Paella Stock, 5·239, 240 Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe, St. John, 3·142 Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183 parametric recipe for, 2·296–298 4·86 Staphylococcus aureus, 1·135, 144–145 Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken sublimation star anise extract, parametric recipe for, steaming, 2·70–73. See also autoclaves; Stock, 2·301 of aromatic compounds in frozen 2·326 steam pressure-cooking, 2·294–295 foods, 2·261 star anise infusion, parametric recipe boiling vs., 2·72–73 how to, 2·293 carbonating liquids and, 2·464 for, 2·310 chemistry of sweetness due to, 2·70 Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247 critical temperature for freeze- Starbucks, 4·398 cutaway illustration of, 2·72–73 shell sh, parametric recipe for, 2·297 drying and, 2·446 Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324 fog compared to, 2·71 Shell sh Stock, 2·297 deposition vs., 1·329 Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325 hot-packing canning and, 2·77 size of ingredients and  avor of, dry ice and, 1·326 starches, 4·20–37. See also speci c as phase change, 1·290 2·290–292 evaporative cooling due to, 2·446 starches in Western and Asian cooking, 2·70 sous vide in freeze-drying, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365 best bets for thickening with, 4·28 Steam’N’Hold vapor oven, 2·158 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303 in freezers, 1·326 dispersion of, 4·20, 22 stearic acid, 1·233, 234 Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303 heat of, 1·326 drying plants foods with, 3·365 Steelhead Trout Con t with Fennel vacuum  ltering of, 2·354 of ice, 1·326 in fermented sausage, 3·246 Salad, 3·106 white solid transmission to gas as,  avor release by, 4·11 Stefan, Josef, 1·287 parametric recipe for, 2·297 1·326–329 foam forming with, 4·244, 247, 255 Stefan-Boltzmann law, 1·285–286, 289 White Stock, 2·297 of water, 1·326–329 gelling agents from, 4·68, 69 Steingarten, Je rey stomach subspecies, 1·132 hydration of, 4·22 biography of, 1·65 characteristics and cooking of, succulence, cooking meat and seafood modi ed. See modi ed starches on Chinese restaurant syndrome, 3·142–143 and, 3·83–84 in plant foods, 3·280–283 1·213 as sausage binder, 3·222 suckling pig plated-dish recipes for, 5·223–256 on hypermodern cuisine, 1·57 stove top. See also burners cooking sous vide, parametric recipe pregelatinized on oxalic acid in spinach, 3·267, 273 braising and pot-roasting using, 2·96 for, 3·96, 109 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 Potato Puree recipe, 3·296 how heat is lost from, 1·276 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot thickening sauces, jus, or glazes Stelvin screw top for wine, 4·344 hydrating thickeners on, 4·26 and Orange Sauce, 3·110 with, 2·346 steric hindrance or resistance, 4·12 for Modernist kitchen, 2·287 Sucro, for airs and froths, parametric proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41 sterilization, 1·148–149 pot on. See pots, on stove recipe for, 4·264 as thickeners, 4·5, 7, 13, 19 in boiling-water canning, 2·79–80 reductions, 2·346, 379 sucrose example recipes for, 4·29, 31–37 canning and, 2·76 stove-top smokers, 2·146 centrifuging and, 2·368

CVI INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 106 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM TARGET CORE TEMPERATURE T

sucrose (continued) surface tension sweetness, chemistry of steaming and, for cold gels, parametric recipe for, of bubbles, 4·246 2·70 4·140 of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·296, Swiss cheese G S criteria and, 1·254 298  e American Cheese Slice, 4·224 T suction pump, vacuum  ltration and, surfactants scombroid poisoning and, 1·139 table salt. See salt (sodium chloride or 2·354 emulsi ers as, 4·202 sword sh, cooking temperature for, table salt) Suet Mousseline, 5·5, 8 as foaming agent, 4·244 3·83 Taenia saginata, 1·124 sugar preserves, parametric recipe for, HLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204 Sybaris, Greece, culinary inventions Taenia solium, 1·124 3·349 in oil used for deep-frying, 2·123 protected in, 1·12, 13 Tagine Base, 5·135, 137 sugar syrup, cooking fruits or vegetables for stabilizing emulsions, 4·214 syneresis Tailor, 1·67 sous vide in, 3·291 Surger, in Guinness beer bo les, 4·251 freeze  ltration and, 2·369, 370–371 tails, in distillation, 2·384 sugar-glass foams surgical tweezers, for cooking, 1·197 gel failure due to, 4·67 Takazawa, Yoshiaki, 1·70 carbon dioxide for, 4·254 surimi, 3·251, 388 modern thickeners and, 4·5 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37 Modernist cuisine and, 4·255 susceptible populations thickener selection and, 4·15, 17 Talbot, H. Alexander sugars foodborne illnesses and, 1·174, 191 synergy Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312 converting grams to volumes for, warnings for, 1·178, 182 gelling agents and, 4·72 agar for clarifying liquids and, 2·372 5·XXXVII–XXXVIII sushi thickeners and, 4·16 on blanching sous vide, 3·293 dissolving in water, 1·296 anisakid infections and, 1·122–123 Synesso espresso machine, 4·372, 374, on browned solids from clari ed drying with, 2·430, 3·344  ash-cooking, how to, 3·61 375, 398, 400 bu er, 4·212 for edible  lms, parametric recipe nigiri, how to slice  sh for, 3·60 Cyncra model of, 4·401 chicken skin glued to scallops by, for, 4·60 tapeworms and, 1·124 Synsepalum dulci cum, 2·465 3·252 freeze-drying and, 2·447 suspending solids in gelled spheres, 4·187 synthetic corks, for wine bo les, 4·344, Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, freezing-point depression and, 1·305 sustainable food 345, 346 3·392 for juicing, 2·335 current buzz on, 1·248 syrups on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75 organic food movement perception New American cuisine and, 1·28 converting grams to volumes for, fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78 of, 1·253 Swatland, Howard, 3·44 5·XXXVII  sh skin pillows of, 3·131 production process for, 1·256 Swedish hospital food, sous vide maple, grades of, 5·77 gel  ltration and, 2·369 re ning process for, 1·254 technology and, 1·40, 2·252, 265 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128 Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, in sausage, 3·226 Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43, 44 Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191 4·105 for set foams, parametric recipe for, sweet cure, basic, parametric recipe for, sugar, cooking fruits or vegetables Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67 4·288–289 3·169 sous vide in, 3·291 Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31 solids, as foam stabilizer, 4·257 sweet Italian sausage, parametric recipe White Grape Syrup, 4·52 Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386 solubility in water of, 1·331, 332 for, 3·236–237 Système International d’Unités, 1·272 Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396 spheri cation and, 4·184 Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177 smoked eggs by, 4·100 supersaturated solution of, 1·332 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger Fricassee, Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, for thick foams, parametric recipe 5·273, 275 4·292 for, 4·278–279 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173 tamago, example recipe for, 4·94 Sugimoto, Tagashi, Green Pea Yuba Sweet Pea Fricassee plated-dish recipe, tamarind recipe, 4·115 5·272–275 as acidi er, 2·314 s u l  t e s Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371 Tamarind Paste, 5·43, 99 drying plant foods with, 3·365 sweet peas. See green peas Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282 fresh juice color and, 2·338 Sweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39 tampers, for espresso, 4·383–384 intolerance to, 1·239 sweet potatoes tamping, of espresso porta lters sulfur dioxide, cork taint in wine and, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe considerations for, 4·383–384 4·348–349 for, 3·292 dosing and, 4·380 Sullivan, Geneva, 4·399 necrotizing enteritis and, 1·141 how to, 4·382 summer squash, cooking sous vide, Sweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39 pressure-controlled, 4·398 parametric recipe for, 3·289 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato tannic acid, acorn cooking by Native sunchokes Chips, 4·287 Americans and, 1·6 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212 tannin, in red wine, reducing, 4·334 for, 3·289 sweet spot or zone tapenade, Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27 Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31 of broilers, 2·18–19, 22–23 tapeworms, 1·124–125 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125, of grills, 2·14–17 contamination by, 1·120 131 roasting and, 2·32 destruction of, 1·123 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 sweet vinegar pickles, parametric recipe types of, 1·124 Sunday Pork Belly plated-dish recipe, for, 3·349 tapioca 5·101–105 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, 5·17, Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207 sun ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126 19 Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29 Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149 sweetbreads Uni with Whipped Tofu and sunny-side up eggs, process for, 4·74 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 Tapioca, 4·285 super methylcellulose (SMC), for characteristics and cooking of, 3·140 tapioca starch, 4·20, 21, 28, 68 cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, 3·146 source of, 3·376 for, 4·170, 171 parametric recipe for, 3·146 thickening with, parametric recipe supercooled liquids, 1·304 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150 for, 4·28 how to supercool water and, 1·312 de nition of, 5·32 tapioca starch cracker supercritical  uids Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32 parametric recipe for, 4·302 critical point and, 1·328 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303 extraction of Powder and Shiitake, 3·151 tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais deca einated co ee and, 4·363 sweeteners. See also speci c sweeteners Beans, 5·81, 83  avor and, 2·320 volumetric equivalents for amounts target core temperature as gas and liquid, 1·302–303 of, 5·XLIV holding food at, 2·247–249 supersaturated solutions, 1·332 water content of, 5·XLI water bath ho er than, 2·243–247 surface area, volume ratio to, 2·288 water bath set to, 2·243–245

INDEX CVII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 107 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM T TARRAGON INFUSION

tarragon infusion, parametric recipe for, temperature (continued) temperature (continued) texture (continued) 2·310 “danger zone,” 1·175–179 speci c heat and, 1·267–268 of eggs, temperature and, 4·76–77 tart, Onion tart, 5·261–265 de ning, history of, 1·265 spray-drying and, 2·438 of foams, expanding by drying and, tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, de nition of, 1·264 in steak frying, 3·72–73 2·433 5·143, 145 dry-bulb. See dry-bulb temperature time and freezing and, 1·304, 2·256 tartares, 3·62–69 for drying with warm air, 2·432 bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151 gelling with hydrocolloids and, 4·124 example recipes for, 3·65–68 egg textures and, 4·76–77 noroviruses and, 1·154 holding at target temperature and, tartaric acid emulsi er solubility and, 4·203 for vacuum packing, 2·214 2·242, 247–248 as acidi er, 2·314 for espresso-brewing, 4·372, 374 viscosity and, 4·6 hydrocolloid-texture combinations, for cold gels, parametric recipe for, skill of choosing, 4·385 wet-bulb. See wet-bulb temperature overview of, 4·VII 4·140 factors in, 4·15 for wine storage, 4·345–346 marinades and, 3·190 for set foams, parametric recipe for, for fat incorporation into sausage, for wok burners, 2·52 oven humidity and, 2·153 4·288–289 grinding and, 3·224 “ e Ten Commandments of Nouvelle of pasta dough, 3·378 tastants FDA Food Code on, 1·174 Cuisine,” 1·26, 27 of plant foods, modifying, 3·374–401 ethanol for extraction of, 2·320 fermented sausage-making and, tender cuts of meat progressive smoking and, 2·148 Maillard reaction and, 2·268 3·246 collagen and, 3·10, 70, 76, 81 searing a er sous vide cooking and, taste buds  avor of cooked meat and seafood cooking sous vide 2·268 research on, 4·341 and, 3·88–89 best bets for, 3·96 smoking and, 2·138, 140, 141, 143 sour-sensing, carbonation taste and, food safety rules based solely on, example recipes for, 3·97–98 sous vide preparation and, 2·195, 2·465 1·174 parametric recipes for, 3·96 197, 198 taste testing food safety rules on, 1·169 medium-tender, from primal cuts, sterilization for canning and, 2·76 of con t, 2·129 fourth-power relationship of radiant 3·44 thawing and, 1·313 ratings and gold medals for wine heat to, 1·285–286, 287 muscles and, 3·6 vacuum packing and, 2·213, 221 and, 4·338–339 for freeze-drying, 3·365 contraction of, 3·8–9 water bath ho er than target science of, 2·299 freezing point and. See freezing plated-dish recipes for, 5·3–39 temperature and, 2·245 triangle test for, 2·129, 4·334 point very tender, from primal cuts, 3·44  ai chicken sausage, parametric recipe how to set up, 4·336 for gelatin melting, 4·67–68 tender cuts of poultry for, 3·236–237 of wine, 4·330, 332, 334 for gelatinization, 4·22 cooking sous vide  ai Crab Miang plated-dish recipe, Taubes, Gary, 1·236 glass-transition, in freeze-drying, example recipes for, 3·100–101 5·189–191 TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), 4·348, 1·329, 2·44, 444 parametric recipes for, 3·99  ai stock, parametric recipe for, 349 grinding fat to incorporate into Pigeon with Shell sh Bu er, 2·296–297 TDS (total dissolved solids), brewing sausage and, 3·224 3·100–101  anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33 control chart on, 4·367–368 for grinding meat, 3·230 tender  sh, cooking sous vide, thawing tea heat and, 1·264–271 parametric recipe for, 3·102 cooking directly from frozen vs., Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291 for heat-shocking, 3·358 tender greens, freeze-drying, 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263 hot and cold, 4·176 holding. See holding temperature parametric recipe for, 2·451 debate on, 1·313 Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182 hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·38 Tenderay process for dry-aging meat, heat conduction in ice and, 1·311 infusion of, parametric recipe for, irreversible changes and, 1·268, 270 3·41, 78 strategies for, 2·263 2·310 lower, deep-frying with, 2·122 tenderizers, Jaccard. See Jaccard timing for, 2·264 Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad  ai recipe, lowering. See chilling; chilling water tenderizers  e Curious Cook (McGee), 1·43 3·385 baths; cook-chill sous vide tenderizing  e  eory of the Avant-Garde (Poggioli), technoemotional cuisine, Adrià on methods; cooling; freezing; with acid, 3·192–193 1·18 Modernist cuisine as, 1·37, 57 refrigeration; refrigerators equipment for, 2·286 thermal conductivity, heat transfer temperature. See also energy; heat; low- low-temperature cooking and. See blade tenderizing and, 3·51. See e ciency and, 1·277 temperature cooking; radiation low-temperature cooking; target also Jaccard tenderizers thermal death curves (radiant heat) core temperature for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 for bacteria, 1·149, 150–151 for Activa bonding, 3·252 low-temperature steam mode and FDA Food Code time and FDA assumptions on, 1·182–189 bacterial replication rates and, in combi ovens, 2·167 temperature for, 1·176 thermal inactivation curves, for viruses, 1·142–143, 144 in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158, mechanical, of meat, 3·50–51 1·153 during baking, 2·103, 106 159 food safety and, 1·191 thermistor, technology of, 1·269 barbecue sous vide and, 3·216 ovens using, 2·155 foodborne illnesses and, 1·176 thermocouples blowing on hot food and, physics of, Maillard reaction and, 3·89–90 muscle structure and, 3·10 of freeze dryers, 2·446 1·288 management of, 1·95 multiple water baths and, 2·247–249 technology and types of, 1·269 of boiling water, 1·318. See also measuring, technology of, 1·269 with penetrating meat tenderizers, for testing pressure-canning process, boiling point measuring during baking, 2·108 hazards of, 1·176 2·88 carbonated liquids and, 2·464 for meat grinding, 3·230 tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248 thermo-irreversible gels for co ee brewing, 4·364, 368 in Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·96 tepid-water baths, thawing using, 2·263 gel selection and, 4·70, 73 co ee grind and, 4·376, 378 of oil for deep-frying, 2·116, 122, Terranova decipens, 1·122–123 set foams as, 4·244 co ee roasting and, 4·360–361 123, 127 terrines thermometers color indicators for, physics of, 1·291 for plant food cooking, 3·286 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392 accuracy by type of, 1·269 consistency in results and, 2·111 plant food  avor and, 3·273 Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103 accuracy issues with, 1·206–207 controlling of, 1·270 resistance to change in, properties terrine de foie gras, Pralus, digital. See digital thermometers conversion tables, 5·XXXIV–XXXV of, 1·267 Troisgros and, 1·41, 42 infrared, 1·269, 2·286 cooked meat and seafood  avor and, scales for, 1·266, 285–286 terroir, wine and, 4·322–325 low-temperature cooking and, 1·205 3·88–89 serving tetradecahedron, foam geometry as, for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 for cooking, animals’ body brewed co ee and, 4·364 4·246  e r m o m i x temperature and, 3·89 gel selection and, 4·73 tetrasodium pyrophosphate, myosin dispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25 core. See core temperature thickener selection and, 4·14–15 extraction for sausage and, 3·223 hydrating thickeners with, 4·26 critical for slicing raw meat, 3·50 Texturas, sources of, 1·35 thermo-reversible gels bacterial replication rates and, for smoking, 2·132, 140–141, 3·208, texture gel selection and, 4·70, 73 1·142–143 211 cook-chill sous vide method and, methylcellulose for, 4·127 for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453 chemistry of, 2·135 2·252 thermos bo les, for sous vide cooking, freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446 sous vide cooking and, 2·230–231 deep-frying and, 2·122, 124, 125, 127 2·241

CVIII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 108 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM TROTTER, CHARLIE T

thermostats time tools. See also speci c tools traditional cooking (continued) calibration of, 2·112 for brining, 3·156 classic, 2·287 panfrying a la plancha and, 2·36–43 of conventional ovens, 2·111 FDA Food Code omission from cu ing, for frying fruits and pot-roasting and stewing and, of sous vide cookers, 2·230–231 standards of, 1·174 vegetables, 3·326–327 2·92–99 thick foams, 4·278–287 for plant food cooking, 3·286 for emulsions, 4·208 roasting and, 2·28–35 best bets for, 4·278 power as unit of, 1·272–273 handy special-purpose, 2·285 sautéing and, 2·44–47 example recipes for, 4·280–287, temperature and inexpensive but valuable, 2·286 smoking and, 2·132–149 5·193 bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151 for meat chopping, grinding, or steaming and, 2·70–73 parametric recipe for, 4·278–279 FDA Food Code errors in, 1·183 cu ing, 3·230–233 stir-frying and, 2·48–57 thick food noroviruses and, 1·154 must-have, 2·284 traditional plant foods, cryogenic freezing and, 1·308, 310 tinctures technology and, 2·283, 286 internationalization of, 3·268 frozen, thawing of, 1·311 best bets for using, 2·325 torches. See blow torching and Traeger smoker, 2·147 thickened hot and cold liquids,  avors in, 2·320 blowtorches Tragancanth Importing Company, 4·40 parametric recipe for, 4·46–47 TMAO (trimethylamine oxide), 3·43, 87 total dissolved solids (TDS), brewing Tramonto, Rick, Tro er and, 1·69  ickened Oil, 4·230 Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59 control chart on, 4·366–367 trans fat, 1·222, 224, 230–231 thickeners, 4·3–63. See also thickening Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9 Tough, Dana, Modernist raviolo al’uovo transglutaminase. See also Activa dispersing, how to, 4·24 Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133 of, 4·190 as coagulating enzyme, 4·70 emulsion stability and, 4·202, 204 Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59 tough cuts of meat description of, 3·250–251 emulsion viscosity and, 4·205 toasting spices, 5·94 collagen and, 3·10–11, 70, 76, 81 gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117  avor release and, 4·10–11 Toddy system, for cold-extraction cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3·109 transglutaminase gels, parametric foam stabilizing with, 4·245 co ee, 4·370 example recipes for, 3·110, 111, 114 recipe for, 4·116 hydrating, how to, 4·26 tofu muscles and, 3·6 traveler’s diarrhea, 1·129 measuring, how to, 4·23 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121 contraction of, 3·8–9 trehalose, as bulking agent with spray- mouthfeel and, 4·6, 10 Firm Tofu, 4·112 parametric recipes for, 3·109 dried powders, 2·442 for oil, 4·13 Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172 plated-dish recipes for, 5·41–105 trematodes, 1·123–124 proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41 parametric recipe for, 4·104 pressure-cooking for quick results, disease caused by, 1·120 starches as, 4·20–37 Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122 how to, 3·114 liver  ukes, 1·123–124 traditional, 4·7 as protein gel, 4·102 from primal cuts, 3·44 salmon-poisoning  uke, 1·124 viscosity and, 4·3–4 Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, sous vide cooking of, 3·95 trials. See double-blind trials; technology of measuring, 4·8 Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202 succulence of, 3·84 randomized clinical trials thickening. See also thickeners Silken Tofu, 4·113 tough cuts of poultry, parametric Trials of Hypertension I and II, 1·234 chemistry of, 4·71 Uni with Whipped Tofu and recipes for, 3·108 triangle tests common problems with, 4·27 Tapioca, 4·285 tough  sh, example recipes for, 3·115 how to set up, 4·336 emulsi cation for, 4·205 tofu gels, example recipes for, tough shell sh for taste testing, 2·129 methods for, 4·12–13 4·112–113, 115, 121 best bets for, 3·108 of wine, 4·334 modern methods of, 4·18–19 Tom Yum Broth, 2·309 example recipes for, 3·112, 113 Trichinella spiralis of sauces, jus, and glazes, 2·346 tomato chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328 parametric recipes for, 3·108 contamination of meat by, strategies for, 4·14–19 tomatoes. See also green tomatoes Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82 1·117–118, 120–122, 179  is, Hervé as acidi er, 2·314 Toulouse goose, foie gras production in, as  esh-dwelling parasite, 1·174 biography of, 1·46 Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403 3·138 invasive infection by, 1·120–121 Chocolate Chantilly recipe, 4·281 Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15 Tower, Jeremiah, New American misconceptions about, 1·179 Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45 compressing, parametric recipe for, cuisine and, 1·28 overstated risk of exposure to, 1·170 food science and, 1·52 3·390 toxins trichinellosis hot spring eggs and, 4·75 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe bacterial, 1·134–135 common misconceptions about, liquid nitrogen and, 1·61–62, 65 for, 3·290 in cassava, 3·262 1·117–118, 121–122 on molecular gastronomy, 1·46, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, chemistry of, 1·248 deaths due to, 1·113 47–48 3·372 in distilled essences, 2·391 as disease name, 1·119 Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 4·83 heat-treating, parametric recipe for, historical cooking and, 1·6 triglycerides, 1·222 Steingarten on, 1·65 3·359 natural, 1·249 Trillin, Calvin, 1·28  omas, Dave, innovations of, 1·21, 22 impregnating, parametric recipe for, organically grown food and, 1·245 trimethylamine oxide (TMAO), 3·43, 87  omas, Elizabeth Cawdry, 1·44–45 3·390 in plants, 3·267 tripe  ompson, Bradford, Preserved introduction and acceptability of, as self-defense, 3·266 characteristics and cooking of, Lemons recipe, 3·350 1·14, 16 in reused deep-frying oil, 2·124, 125 3·141–143  ompson, David Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, in seeds, 3·262 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe miang kham of, 5·189 4·175 Toxoplasma gondii for, 3·146  ai chicken sausage and, 3·236–237 Pasta Marinara, 3·386 foodborne illnesses in U.S. and, as sausage binder, 3·222 thyme, antimicrobial properties of wine pH level and canning method for, 2·76 1·111, 126–127 texture of, 3·137 and, 1·145 preserving, parametric recipe for, human infections from, 1·128 Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock thyme extract, parametric recipe for, 3·348 life cycle of, 1·127 Infusion, 5·253, 254 2·326 Pressure-Cooked Polenta with misconceptions about, 1·118 triple point thymol, as antimicrobial compound, Strawberry Marinara, 4·50 psychological conditions due to, 1·127 phase changes and, 1·326 1·145 sauces from fresh vs. canned, 3·276 trade, long-distance, civilization and, 1·7 in phase diagrams, 1·302–303 thymus gland, 5·32. See also sweetbreads Tomato Con t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67 trade secrets, history of, 1·76 triple stocks, 2·290 characteristics and cooking of, 3·140 Tomato Powder, 3·312 traditional cooking, 2·2–149 Troisgros, Jean-Baptiste, 1·25 TIC Gums, 4·40 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 4·192 baking and, 2·100–113 Troisgros, Michel, 1·25 Tierno, Philip, 1·196, 200 Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65 boiling and, 2·62–69 Cocoa Nib Curd recipe, 4·105 tigernuts Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60 broiling and, 2·18–27 Troisgros, Pierre and Jean, 1·25, 41, 73 Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59 Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49 canning and, 2·74–91 trompe l’oeil dishes, 3·388–401 Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244 tongue (animal). See also speci c animals covered sautéing and, 2·58–61 Tro er, Charlie tilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with characteristics and cooking of, grilling and, 2·6–17  ne cuisine in Chicago and, 1·69 Scallions and Ginger, 3·115 3·140–141 Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84–85 New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29 Tim Wendleboe, 4·396, 400 tongue (human), taste regions of, 2·465, myth of, 1·14–16 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion 4·341 in oil, 2·114–131 and Water Chestnuts recipe, 3·101

INDEX CIX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 109 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM T TROUT

trout turkey (continued) unsaturated oils,  avor of saturated oils blue, science of, 3·40 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe vs., 2·126 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108 urban populations, civilization and, 1·7 for, 3·102 fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in, U U.S. Centers for Disease Control and diet and  esh color of, 3·93 3·12 U.K. Institute of Food Research, 1·147 Prevention (CDC) Steelhead Trout Con t with Fennel Turkey Wing, 4·33 ullage on E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006, Salad, 3·106 Turkey & Gravy seasonal  avor, 4·33 wine corks and, 4·344 1·172 Tru, 1·69 Turner, Joseph Mallord William, 1·33 wine storage temperature and, 4·345 on foodborne illness, 1·110–111, 113 tru es turnips ultracold deep freezers, sous vide on foods associated with Salmonella, Black Tru e Concentrate, 2·427, Braised Turnips with Sa ron, 5·121, cooking and, 2·259 1·180 5·216 123 Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 3·134–135 on Giardia intestinalis infections, 1·126 Cromesquis, 3·340 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe ultrahigh-pressure homogenizers on peanut or tree nut allergies, 1·238 faux for, 3·289, 290, 292 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 on Toxoplasma gondii infections, 1·126 Dacosta on, 2·459 preserving, parametric recipe for, for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400 U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, Frozen White “Tru e,” 3·400–401 3·348 for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423 1·179, 181 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163 ultrasonic baths U.S. Department of Agriculture. See also Tru e Puree, 4·114 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309 for extracting and infusing  avors, U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Pecorino with Tru e Honey on in Sauerkraut, 3·351 2·251 Service Cedar, 4·101 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 for kitchen hygiene, 1·204 Agricultural Research Service, preserving freshness of, 2·470 Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33 for Modernist kitchen, 2·285 1·180–181 smelling, science of, 4·350 tweezers, surgical, for cooking, 1·197 Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11 on BSE testing, 1·160 storing with dry ice or gas- ushing 12D drop, in bacteria for sanitizing ultrasonic homogenizers canning guidelines of, 2·79–80 vacuum sealer, 2·471 food, 1·148, 149 breaking down food with, 2·400 on essences for food, 2·324 Tru e Jus, 4·53 Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe o, 4·143 emulsifying with, 4·208 food and agricultural scienti c Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98 Tyndall e ect, 4·72, 203 foam forming with, 4·252 research by, 1·48 truite au bleu, science of, 3·40 freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333 maximum concentrations of curing tubers. See also speci c tubers wet-grinding with, 2·414–415 salts permi ed by, 3·161 gelling agents from, 4·126 Ultra-Sperse 3, thickening with, 4·22, 30 meat inspection stamp of, 3·39 Horchata drinks from, 4·59 parametric recipe for, 4·30 meat-grading system of, 3·35–36, 39 tuiles, Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245 Ultra-Sperse 5, for thick foams, on nitrates and nitrites in cured tularemia, 1·138 parametric recipe for, 4·278–279 foods, 3·160 tulip pa ern, for ca è la es, 4·395 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219 Pathogen Modeling Program of, 1·147 Tully’s, 4·398 Ultra-Tex 8, thickening with, 4·22, 30 slaughterhouse inspector tumblers, vacuum, 2·285, 3·158, parametric recipe for, 4·30 regulations, 3·35 166–167, 175 ultraviolet radiation U.S. Food and Drug Administration tumbling meat, 3·50–51 heat and emission of, 1·287 (FDA) tuna to kill bacteria, 1·149 on BSE contamination, 1·160 Adrià’s use of intervertebral pads of, prions and, 1·157 consumer web site on cooking pork, 1·36 for purifying water, 1·335 1·179 albacore, about, 5·176 ultraviolet light kits for sterilizing on cooking pork vs. beef, 1·170–171 bigeye, as alternative to blue n, 3·55 and, 1·205 on cooking times and temperatures, blocking, 3·54–55 ultraviolet lotion or powder and, speci c, 1·184–185 blue n. See blue n tuna hand washing and, 1·201 E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier umami brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168 and, 1·172 Bu er, 4·220 umami  avor food additives banned by, 1·252 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe MSG and, 3·160 Food Code of. See FDA Food Code for, 3·102 ripening cured meat or seafood and, on foodborne giardiasis, 1·127 cooking temperature for, 3·83 3·167 on freezing raw foods, time-and- cu ing, 3·52 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183 temperature standards for, 1·186 red and fa y  esh of, biology of, 3·21 uncooked foods. See raw foods; speci c on histamine poisoning, 1·139 Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard, foods on killing anisakids, 1·123 5·175, 176 Under Pressure (Keller), 1·73, 83 on killing trichina worms, 1·121 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, on Modernist ingredients, 1·254 Marmalade, 3·202 4·285 on nisin as food additive, 1·144 yellow n, about, 5·176 United Kingdom. See also England on roasting whole-meats roasts, oven tuna bo arga, in Sea Urchin Bo arga, mad cow disease in, 1·156, 160 temperatures for, 1·186 5·226 Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28 on sous vide cooking and storage, TurboChef microwave and convection Roux and sous vide cooking in, 1·41 time-and-temperature standards oven, 2·189 United States for, 1·186 turbot Certi ed Angus Beef in, 3·39 time-and-temperature curves of, 1·187 aging e ects on, 3·40 laws of. See also U.S. Food and Drug on Yersinia enterocolitica cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Administration transmission, 1·117 for, 3·102 on advertising and label health U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Turbot with Onion and Marrow claims, 1·214 Service (FSIS) Broth, 3·105 on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391 on chicken cooking times, 1·181 turkey on food safety, 1·165, 190 on pork cooking times, 1·179 baked, cutaway illustration of, local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94 Salmonella reduction standards of, 2·104–105 Modernist cuisine in, 1·67 1·168 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·27 on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187 Clostridium per ingens- regional barbecue specialties in, U.S. National Institutes of Health, 1·215 contaminated, 1·139, 141 3·218–219 U.S. National Toxicology Program, 1·220 cooked, pink color in, 3·94 unsaturated fat, 1·222 U.S. Patent and Trademark O ce, 1·71

CX INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 110 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM VINDALOO CURRY V

vacuum pumps, 2·356 veal stock, parametric recipe for, vegetables (continued) membrane-type 2·296–298 mechanics of, 3·279  ltration with, 2·354, 357 veal sweetbreads parametric recipe for, 2·424–425 V for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247 vacuoles, of plant foods vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381 for, 3·146 raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294 cooking and, 3·273 vacuum reduction Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150 smoked, example recipe for, 3·363 enzymes and, 3·283 for concentrating  avor, 2·379, 4·11 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53 vacuum compression and, 2·213 freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333 Powder and Shiitake, 3·151 Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347 vacuum low-cost, 2·380–383 veal tongue Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303 de nition of, 2·212 with rotary evaporators, 2·391 brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172 Vegetable Coals, 3·395 freezing liquid nitrogen in, 1·324 technique for, 2·381 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe volumetric equivalents for amounts liquid in, physics of, 2·215 thickening with, 4·11 for, 3·146 of, 5·XLIV–XLV sealing jars in canning and, 2·77 vacuum tumblers, 2·285, 3·158, Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50 water content of, 5·XLI vacuum chambers. See also chamber 166–167, 175 vegetable chips Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, sealers vacuum-assisted aeration, 2·214 example recipes for, 3·328–330 5·169 foam forming with, 4·255, 258, 260, vacuum-assisted cooling fried, best bets for, 3·328 vegetarian dishes simulating meats, 310–315 evaporation and, 1·321 parametric recipe for, 3·328–329 3·388 vacuum co ee brewer, 4·369 phase changes in, 1·290 vegetable gels, hot, parametric recipe vegetarianism, 1·244 vacuum compression vacuum-assisted drying, 1·321, 2·215. for, 4·164–165 Velveeta cheese, 4·222 physics of, 2·213 See also vacuum-drying vegetable glue, 3·392 venison. See also deer for plant food cooking, 3·286 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and vegetable jus, parametric recipe for, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe using chamber sealers, 2·214 Cabbage Juice, 2·389 2·344–345 for, 3·96 vacuum concentrators, 2·285, 379, 380 vacuum-drying, 2·430, 433, 436–437. vegetable sheeters, Japanese, 3·326 in Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola vacuum condensers, essential oils and, See also vacuum-assisted drying vegetable slicers, rotary, Japanese, 3·327 Style,” 3·185 2·320 vacuum-sealed individual portions, vegetable stock, parametric recipe for, Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98 vacuum desiccators 2·199, 201 2·296–297 ventilation hoods, HEPA (High drying plant foods with, 3·365 vacuum-sealing, compressing and vegetables. See also speci c vegetables E ciency Particulate Air), 1·205 features of, 2·433, 436–437 impregnating produce by, 3·390–391 Allium, Maillard reaction and, 3·90 venting, pressure cookers or pressure foam forming with, 4·310 vacuum-set foams, 4·310–315 blanching, 2·269 canners, 2·86–87 for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 example recipes for, 4·311–313 boiling and  xing color of, 2·63, 66 verbena, Halibut in Verbena Bubble, vacuum distillation, 2·380. See also Valazza, Luisa Marelli, 1·28 classi cation of, 3·262 4·156–157 rotary evaporators Valdre, Ugo, 1·44–45 colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215 Verdun, Pierre, 2·412 vacuum dryers, 2·430, 433, 436–437 van Leeuwenhoek, Antony, 1·107, 128 compressed and impregnated, verjus vacuum evaporation vanilla extract, parametric recipe for, example recipes for, 3·395–401 as acidi er, 2·314 for concentrating  avor, 2·380 2·326 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes, vanilla infusion, parametric recipe for, 5·55, 58 221 2·346 2·310 cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294 Versawhip, 4·244 of wine, 4·330 Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35 cooking sous vide for thick foams, parametric recipe vacuum  ltering, 2·286, 4·352–358 vapor, gas vs., 1·300 with fat, best bets for, 3·292 for, 4·278–279 description of, 2·352, 358, vapor pressure, 1·314, 326 with fat, parametric recipe for, 3·292 very-low-density lipoprotein (VLDL), 4·353–354 vaporization, 1·314–325. See also of heat-sensitive vegetables, best 1·226 equipment for, 2·286, 356–357 evaporation bets for, 3·292 Veyrat, Marc how to, 2·357 heat of, 1·296. See also latent heat of parametric recipe for, 3·288, Citrus Air recipe, 4·265 of wine, 4·344 vaporization 289–290, 292 Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe, vacuum frying, 2·128 La Varenne, École de, 4·322–325 for puree, best bets for, 3·290 4·156–157 vacuum in ation, foam forming with, La Varenne, François Pierre de until tender, best bets for, 3·289 homemade sodas by, 4·239 4·252, 254, 310 as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9 covered sautéing of, 2·58, 60–61 Modernist cuisine and, 1·64 vacuum jars, 2·286 French cuisine and, 1·19 cruciferous. See also speci c vegetables Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino vacuum ovens, 2·433, 4·310 innovations of, 1·20 blanching, 2·214 recipe, 4·275 vacuum packing, 2·208–227. See also variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease cut size for stock, 2·290–291 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality sous vide (vCJD), 1·159, 160, 161 cu ing tools for frying, 3·326–327 of, 1·27, 39–40 for Activa bonding, 3·252 variety meats. See innards dehydrating Tru e Jus recipe, 4·53 boiling not crushing during, 2·213 Varvary, 1·70 best bets for, 3·366 vibrator tray, for espresso tamping, 4·380 chamber sealers for, 2·214–221 vat pasteurization, 1·188 example recipes for, 3·368–369, 371 Vibrio cholerae, 1·132, 134, 135, 145 compression in, physics of, 2·213 veal. See also oxtail parametric recipe for, 3·366–367 vicinal water containers for, 2·210–211 Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62 FDA standards and, 1·189 drying with warm air and, 2·432 dehydration and, 1·328 Brown Veal Stock, 2·300 freeze-drying food drying and, 2·428 edge sealers for, 2·222–224 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe best bets for, 3·372 freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447 freeze-drying and, 2·447 for, 3·96, 109 example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261 pu ng skin and, 3·122, 123 freezing food and, 2·256 primal cuts of, 3·44 parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372 Victrola Co ee, 4·375, 396, 398, 401 freezing in liquid nitrogen a er, Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked heat-sensitive, cooking sous vide vin jaune du Jura 2·258 Veal Breast with Bulbous best bets for, 3·292 Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116 ice-brine freezing and, 1·310 Vegetables, 3·111 parametric recipe for, 3·292 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune impulse sealers for, 2·225 veal heart, cooking sous vide, heat-shocking, 3·358 Sabayon, 3·363 mechanism of action, 2·212 parametric recipe for, 3·146 microwaving, best bets for, 3·311 vinaigre es, 4·230–231 of plant foods, cooking and, 3·286 veal knuckle and neck bones, Brown multistep deep-frying of, 2·122 Cherry Vinaigre e, 5·267, 270 rigid containers for, 2·226–227 Veal Stock, 2·300 plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–275, Invincible Vinaigre e, 4·231 of sausage mix before stu ng, 3·227, veal liver, cooking sous vide, parametric 281–283 Mustard Vinaigre e, 4·231 230 recipe for, 3·146 preserving, best bets for, 3·348 Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce searing before, 2·268 veal marrowbones purees of Vinaigre e, 5·181, 183 of tru es, 2·471 Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63 best bets for, 2·425 Vinay, Jean-Paul, as elBulli chef, 1·33, 34 uses of, 2·208–209 Turbot with Onion and Marrow example recipes for, 2·426–427, Vindaloo Curry, 5·90. See also Goan vacuum pressure, 2·391, 447 Broth, 3·105 5·5, 216 Curry

INDEX CXI

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 111 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM V VINEGAR

vinegar volatiles water (continued) as acidi er, 2·314, 315 evaporated, wineglass shapes and, quality of, 1·335 eggs marinated in, 4·75 4·325 for espresso, 4·384 Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315 in roasted co ee, 4·361 W in raw foods, weight of, 3·79, 83 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128 vacuum-drying and removal of, wafers in rehydrated freeze-dried foods, osmanthus, 5·172 2·433 dehydrating formula for, 3·367 3·365 Oysters with Mignone e Air, 4·265 volume Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371 rotary evaporator mix of ethanol production process for, 1·256 equivalents for amounts of typical Wagyu beef and, 2·384, 390 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion foods, 5·XLIV–XLV calpastatin in Brahman ca le vs., sausage binding and, 3·223 and Water Chestnuts, 3·101 surface area ratio to, 2·288 3·76 sausage grinding and, 3·230 Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315 Vongerichten, Jean-Georges marbling in, 3·19, 36 in skin, 3·116 Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270 eating experience and career of, 1·49 richness of, 5·57 as solvent, 1·330–333 vinegar-coagulated egg and, Green Asparagus and Morels with shimofuri, fat content of, 3·84 sublimation of, 1·326–329 parametric recipe for, 4·82 Asparagus Jus recipe, 2·341 Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steelhead Trout supercool, how to, 1·312 virions, 1·154 homemade sodas by, 4·239 Con t with Fennel Salad recipe, 3·106 thawing and, 1·311, 313 virtual cooking experiments. See molten chocolate cake by, 1·15 Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230 unsafe for drinking, 1·110, 129 computer simulation models New International cuisine and, 1·30, Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, vaporization of, 1·314–325 viruses, 1·152–156 52 4·53 vicinal alcohol sanitizers and, 1·200 restaurants of, 1·31 Warner, Ezra, 2·75 drying with warm air and, 2·432 as foodborne pathogens, 1·109, 111, Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 2·330 Warner, K. F., 3·77 food drying and, 2·428 113 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Warner-Bratzler tenderometer, science freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447 hepatitis, 1·155 Powder and Shiitake recipe, 3·151 of estimating tenderness with, 3·77 pu ng skin and, 3·122, 123 names for, 1·112 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger water, 1·292–335. See also evaporation; viscosity of blood vs., 4·6 noroviruses, 1·153–154 Marmalade recipe, 3·202 humidity; moisture; water activity as viscosity reference, 4·6 reproduction of, 1·152–153 vegetable juices, oil , and in body, kidneys and volume of, water baths and. See water baths rotaviruses, 1·155 vinaigre es of, 1·35 3·141 wet-curing vs. dry-curing and, 3·160, spreading, mathematics of, 1·153 Vovito Ca è, 4·396, 401 boiling point of 162 viscometers, 4·6, 8, 10 Vytorin, heart disease and, 1·227 relative humidity and, 2·163 water activity viscosity vacuum pressure vs., 2·391 bacterial reproduction and, 1·144 of common liquids, 4·8 bo led, as pure water, 1·335 equilibrium relative humidity and, controlling, options for, 4·16 bound, dehydration and, 1·321 2·430 emulsions and, 4·204–205 for brining, 3·158 as free water measure, 2·428 extreme, of solid that drips, 4·9 carbonated, carbon dioxide and, physics of, 1·307 measuring, technology of, 4·8 4·254 water and bleach solution shear forces in  uids and, 4·5–6 physics of, 1·334 drying with warm air and, 2·433 thickeners and, 4·10 changing states of, energy of, for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204 selection of, 4·15 1·300–303 water baths. See also holding vitamin A, 1·235 chemistry of, 1·298 temperature; ice-brine baths; ice- vitamin C color and texture of cooking plant water baths as acidi er, 2·314 foods and, 3·274–275 baking using, 2·106 aging braises and pot roasts and, in common foods, 1·294–295 boiling using, 2·63 2·98 condensation of, 1·314–325 boundary layer disruption in, 1·283 browning reaction in plants and, deionized, 1·335 calibrating internal thermometer of, 3·283 espresso-making and, 4·384 2·230 health bene ts of, 1·235 hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, chilling natural vs. synthetic, 1·254–255 4·124, 125 equipment for, 2·285 nitrates in cured meats and, 1·143 for plant food cooking, 3·278 technology of, 2·238 to slow plant juice browning, 2·338 deposition of, 1·329 circulation control in, 2·234–235 vitamin E, 1·143, 235 energy and heating of, 1·300 e ciency of, 1·274 vitamin supplements, debate on, 1·235 in ethanol, solubility of, 1·332 egg emulsions and, 4·226 viticulture, 1·7, 4·329–331 food content of, 1·294–295 frozen food cooking in, 2·262 Vitis labrusca, 4·327 free heat transfer coe cient of, 1·283 Vitis vinifera, 4·327, 328–329 as measure of dryness, 2·428 holding at speci c temperature in, Vives, Joachim, 4·184 rehydration and, 1·321 2·247–249 vodka freezing. See freezing homemade and improvised, Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389 hard 2·240–241 co ee brewing in, 4·371 dissolved minerals and, 1·335 hot, for blanching, 2·267 Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327 espresso-making and, 4·384 ho er than target temperature, House Bi ers, 2·327 hydration of ion-coagulated gels 2·243–247 Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337 with, 4·124 hydrating thickeners in, 4·26 plant food cooking and, 3·278 for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 hydrogen bonds in alcohol vs., 1·314 multiple Maillard reaction and, 3·90 at di erent temperatures, 2·244, phase changes in, 1·290 247 phase diagrams, how to read, how to cook in, 2·248–249 1·302–303 pasteurizing for storage using, physics of, Myhrvold on writing 2·249–250 about, 1·84 programmable heating/chilling and, in plant foods, 3·273, 276, 278 2·255 properties and behavior of, 1·296 selection criteria for, 2·236–237 puri cation of, reverse osmosis and, for sous vide cooking, 2·198–199, 2·397 232, 234 purity of, 1·335 at target core temperature, 2·243–247

CXII INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 112 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM WOMEN’S HEALTH INITIATIVE STUDY W

water baths (continued) weasand meat, as sausage binder, wheat. See also  our wine (continued) warm, thawing using, 2·263 3·222–223 allergies to, 1·238 corked, 4·348–350, 349 water chestnuts, Quail with Apple- weather, winemaking and, 4·328–329 thickening with, parametric recipe decanting, 4·342–343 Vinegar Emulsion and Water weeping. See syneresis for, 4·28 descriptions of, 4·339–340 Chestnuts, 3·101 weight loss diets, 1·240–241 Wheat Bran Fiber Study, 1·215, 217 freeze concentration of, 2·396 Water Cube, at Beijing National Weight Watchers, 1·241, 242 wheat pasta, parametric recipe for, gold medals for, 4·338–339 Aquatics Center, 4·246 weighting agents, emulsion stability 3·381 grape varieties and, 4·326–328 water faucet handles, personal hygiene and, 4·204 wheat starch, 4·20, 28 great, factors in, 4·322–332 and, 1·200 weights whey protein isolate hyperdecanting, 4·343 water so eners, ion-exchange  lters as, calibrated, for pressure-canning, foaming and, 5·187 labels, 4·351 1·335 2·86–87 for froths, parametric recipe for, for marinating, 3·195 water vapor. See also evaporation; conversion tables, 5·XXXVII 4·264 names, rules, and laws of, 4·331–332 humidity; latent heat of vaporization and measures, 1·94–95 Whipped Bu er, 4·286 pairing, 4·350, 352, 5·109 in air, 1·319–321, 325 scales for measuring Whipped Cheese, 4·272 as preserved plant food, 3·346 in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117, digital. See digital scales Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292 production process for, 1·256 118–119, 125 laboratory, 4·23 whipping siphons ratings of, 4·338–339 freeze-drying and, 2·444 Weil, Roman, 4·339, 340 for cold foams, 4·245 red, resveratrol in, 1·228 in shallow frying, 2·127–128 Weiss, John, 4·383 cutaway illustration of, 4·261 reverse osmosis in making, 2·397 vacuum reduction and, 2·380 Weiss Distribution Technique (WDT), to foam ba er on food for frying, reviews of, goals for, 4·340 watercress for grooming espresso, 4·383 3·316 seasoning with, 2·317 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Wendleboe, Tim, 4·396, 400 foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258 storing, 4·345–348 for, 3·290 Westinghouse, Tenderay process for for Modernist kitchen, 2·286 taste and  avor myths about, 4·341 Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5 dry-aging meat of, 3·41, 78 molding sausage with, 3·241 tasting, 4·334–353 Waterhouse, Andrew, 4·349 wet cures, basic, parametric recipe for, nitrous oxide used in, 4·256 sensory science of, 4·337 water-in-gas (W/G) emulsions, 4·243 3·169 whisks terroir and, 4·322–325 water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, 4·199, wet process, for co ee, 4·358 emulsifying with, 4·206, 208 underground cellars for, physics of, 203 Wet Whisker, 4·398 foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258, 4·345 water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) wet-aging meat, 3·41 259 un nished bo les of, 4·346–348 emulsion, 4·199 wet-bulb temperature frothing milk for espresso with, 4·391 vacuum packing and, 2·213 watermelon as baking temperature, 2·103, 106, White, Marco Pierre, 1·28 viscosity of, 4·353 compressing, parametric recipe for, 107, 112 white abalone, about, 5·203 viticulture and, 4·329–331 3·390 barbecue stall and, 3·212 white asparagus, Sous Vide White weather and climate, and, 4·328–329 impregnating, parametric recipe for, basting and, 2·103 Asparagus, 5·147, 149  e Wine Advocate, 4·330, 338 3·390 for beer can chicken, 2·109 white cabbage, Sous Vide and Pressure- Wine Aroma Wheel, 4·339 smoking, parametric recipe for, braising in ovens and, 2·96 Cooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Wine Business Monthly, 4·338 3·362 in CVap water-vapor oven, Vegetables, 3·111 wine cellars, underground, physics of, Watermelon Bulgogi plated-dish 2·158–159, 165 White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72 4·345 recipe, 5·285–287 dry-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102, White Grape Syrup, 4·52 wine “improvement” devices, 4·343 Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285 106, 112 white hot, 1·287 Wine Spectator, 4·348 Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285, drying and, 2·431 White Lily  our, 5·13, 77 wineglasses 286 drying stages in baking and, white meat legs or tears on inside of, 4·353 watermelon chips 2·106–108 in chickens and turkeys, 3·12 shape of, evaporated volatiles and, parametric recipe for, 3·328 evaporative cooling and, 2·155 in chickens vs. ducks, 3·16–17 4·325 Watermelon Chips, 3·328 pot-roasting in ovens and, 2·96 meat color and, 3·12–15 winemaking, 1·7, 4·329–331 Waters, Alice on psychrometric charts, how to White Stock, 2·297 winter squash. See also speci c types of New American cuisine and, 1·28–29 read, 1·323 white tea infusion, parametric recipe winter squash Razor Clam with Sauce Verte recipe, in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165 for, 2·310 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 3·112 relative humidity and, 1·322 white wine. See speci c types of wine for, 3·289, 290 on Slow Food, 1·23 for smoking, 3·208, 211 white sh, cold-smoking, parametric puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425 water-vapor ovens wet-curing recipe for, 3·210 Root Vegetable Riso o, 3·309 baking using, 2·106 best bets for, 3·169 “Why Most Published Research W/O (water-in-oil) emulsion, 4·199, 203 cooking modes of, 2·155–156 equilibrium method for, 3·162, 165 Findings Are False” (Ionnadis), 1·220 Woese, Carl, 1·130 CVap. See CVap water-vapor ovens how to, 3·170–171 Wickens, Robin, 1·71 wok burners, 2·52, 56–57, 287 heat and humidity control in, for food preservation, 3·152 wild boar Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167, 2·158–159 high-concentration method for, E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 169 invention of, 2·154 3·171 and, 1·172 woks. See also stir-frying for Modernist kitchen, 2·284 osmosis and, 3·154 Trichinella and, 1·120, 122 bao technique with, 2·54, 55 pot-roasting using, 2·96 salinity for, 3·160 wild rice, pu ed, parametric recipe for, chao technique with, 2·56–57 for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239, speeding by injection or vacuum, 4·302 glowing hot, physics of, 1·287 243 how to, 3·174–175 wild wood violets, Blossom Salad, 5·171, heat transfer in, 2·48 water content of heated air in, 2·153 wet-grinding, 2·412–427 172 sautéing using, 2·45 Watson, Hugh, 3·39 with colloid mills, 2·413–414, Wiltshire tank cure, parametric recipe seasoning, 2·53 Wa , James, 1·272 416–419 for, 3·169 Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Con t with wa les, preparation of, 3·122 equipment for, 2·412–414 wind chill factor, convection and, 1·283 Pommes Sarladaises recipe, 3·178 wa s, 1·272–273, 2·10 with Pacojet, 2·407 wine, 4·316–353. See also speci c types of Wolke, Robert L., 1·44 wavelength, of microwaves, 2·182 with rotor-stator homogenizers, wine  e Woman Who  inks Like a Cow, 3·36 waxy corn, thickening with, 4·20, 28 2·413, 420–421 alcohol percentage in, 1·330 Women’s Health Initiative study parametric recipe for, 4·28 with ultrahigh-pressure antimicrobial properties of oregano on dietary fat and cancer, 1·233 wd~50. See Dufresne, Wylie homogenizers, 2·422–423 or thyme and, 1·145 on dietary fat and heart disease, WDT (Weiss Distribution Technique), with ultrasonic homogenizers, aroma kit and, technology of, 4·348 1·229 for grooming espresso, 4·383 2·414–415 cheap vs. expensive, 4·340, 342 on dietary  ber and colon cancer, Weaire, Denis, 4·246 W/G (water-in-gas) emulsions, 4·243 closures, 4·344–345 1·217, 219, 220 Weaire-Phelan structure, 4·246 color and  avor of, 4·334–335, 338 on multivitamins, 1·235

INDEX CXIII

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 113 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM W WOMEN’S HEALTHY EATING AND LIVING TRIAL

Women’s Healthy Eating and Living trial, 1·233 Wondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30 parametric recipe for, 4·30 X Y Z wood xanthan gum Yakitori, 3·201 Zhu, Johnny, ramen cups developed by, for smoking for bubbles and froths, parametric yeast 5·247 choices in, and myths of, 2·145 recipe for, 4·264 corked wine and, 4·350 Zhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with cultural importance of, 2·136 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, on ripening cured meat or seafood, Scallions and Ginger recipe, 3·115 soaked, for smoking, 2·145 4·140 3·173 Zichichi, Antonino, Erice Conferences we ing for smoking, cautions controlling syneresis with, 4·17 yellow squash, cooking sous vide, and, 1·44, 45 against, 2·141, 143 for edible  lms, parametric recipe parametric recipe for, 3·289 zinc, health bene ts of, 1·235 wood stoves, 1·286 for, 4·60 yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad, Zinfandel, history of sleuthing out, 4·326 wood- red ovens, 2·26–27, 33 as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215 5·85, 87 Ziryab, 1·10 World Health Organization, 1·228, 240 for  uid gels, parametric recipe for, Yersinia enterocolitica, 1·117, 134, 145 Zoecklein, Bruce W., 4·334 worms. See parasitic worms 4·177 yogurt Zoka café, 4·398 worst-case scenarios, food safety rules as foam stabilizer, 4·257 Activa used in, 3·251 zucchini and, 1·168–169 gluten-free bread and, 3·376 Banana Yogurt, 5·98 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water) in heavy cream, 4·102 Dannon for, 3·289, 292 emulsion, 4·199 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for American tastes, 1·20–21 preserving, parametric recipe for, Wrangham, Richard, 1·6, 3·269 for, 4·165 as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23 3·348 for hot gels, parametric recipe for, fermentation and, 1·134 Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·151, 153 4·160 fruit-on-the-bo om, 1·20–21 hydration of, 4·38 for marinating, 3·190, 198 interactions with other thickeners, Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292 4·44–45 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato for light foams, parametric recipe Chips, 4·287 for, 4·270 Young, Chris, 1·85 myriad uses of, 4·40 yuba, 5·205 natural sources for, 1·253, 257 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu product guide for, 4·IV–V with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203 properties and uses of, 4·42–43 Green Pea Yuba, 4·115 for set foams, parametric recipe for, yuzus 4·288–289 Uni with Whipped Tofu and for spheri cation, parametric recipe Tapioca, 4·285 for, 4·187 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 3·356 for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279 thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47 xanthophyll, poultry  esh color and, 3·93 xiao long bao, 5·253 XO Sauce, 4·52

CXIV INDEX

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 114 3/22/11 10:56:48 AM