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Home , Amazon kingfisher, Baywing, Cacholote, Chivi vireo, Greater rhea, Green kingfisher

: SAFARI &

SEPTEMBER 3–17, 2019

Hyacinth Macaw pair at nest site © Andrew Whittaker

LEADERS: ANDREW WHITTAKER & KIKE CASTILLO LIST COMPILED BY: ANDREW WHITTAKER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM BRAZIL: PANTANAL SAFARI BIRDS & JAGUARS September 3–17, 2019

My anxious return to the world-famous Pantanal (after a few years gap) was a truly spectacular event, in fact, my best ever trip since I first started guiding here way back in 1988! Once again, the fabled Pantanal rocked, simply brimming full of exuberant wildlife, offering us non-stop highlights, and living up to its well-deserved reputation as one of the world’s premier wildlife spectacles!

Not surprisingly, the Pantanal is often favorably compared to an African safari, especially with each year’s incredible multiple sightings! This massive feline is certainly the most wanted of ’s top five big mammals; again we were blessed with multiple incredible observations during our enjoyable boat trips along the picturesque Cuiaba River and tributaries. We racked up an amazing 14 Jaguar encounters with a total of no less than 9 different cats , including two massive adult males called Nessi and Marley, weighing in at around a colossal 350 pounds (the same size as a lioness).

Hi kitty. What a stunning cat Nessi is. © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 The Pantanal wetlands cover a staggering 140,000 sq km of seasonally flooded and sub-tropical , making it the planet’s largest and richest wetland. Each year it’s a great privilege for me to share the region’s astonishing biodiversity, where it’s fairly easy to reach nearly 150 daily! We registered an incredible 255 species this year! Combining this avian overload with an amazing abundance of mammals and crocodilians makes for an unsurpassable wildlife spectacle that truly has to be seen to be believed!

A vibrant Pantanal scene full of life © Andrew Whittaker

Without doubt, our most amazing and truly impressive observation was of the two male Jaguars described below; this totally eclipsed any of my previous exceptional Jaguar sightings! This magical experience will long live in my memory as one of my finest ever wildlife encounters! We confronted the two males at the mouth of the narrow Cashiri channel as we turned off the Cuiaba River and rounded a corner one afternoon. We were astonished to see, at such close quarters, Kim and Tore (brothers around 2-years-old) playing in the water in wonderful afternoon light. Wow, did they put on a show and spectacle for us that we enjoyed (almost all to ourselves) for around 45 minutes! Putting this sighting into perspective, let’s say it was like personally experiencing an award- winning National Geographic event!

Kim and Tore, two brothers mock fighting © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 The entire encounter was simply epic, something unique I have never witnessed before with any large cat, especially as I annually get lots of different Puma observations on the VENT trip I lead each November! Jaque will kindly edit my videos, which should be a mind-blowing repeat of our 45-minute encounter with these magnificent beasts. Enthralled, we observed the drama unfold, which included mock fighting in the water; repeated blows with the huge paws to the head; baring teeth at each other; playing on logs and sharpening their claws; and finally, one was head calling to its brother to return from his hunting sortie downriver for them to go swimming across the large Rio Cuiaba and into the sunset. Simply nothing can be better than this experience!

The density of Jaguars in this region is astonishing—biologists studying these amazing since 2005 have been able to identify (and name) more than 165 individuals (from distinctive coat markings) from the area that they are calling “Jaguar Land.” Not only are Jaguars particularly common here, they are also uncommonly large in stature. Adult males from the Pantanal routinely top 340 lbs, making them 100–150 lbs. heavier than average-sized Jaguars from the Amazon or Central America. The reason appears to be an abundance of aquatic or semi-aquatic prey in the form of mostly Capybara and Yacaré Caiman. Jaguars in the Pantanal have benefited from an abundance of prey that would be the envy of their rainforest-dwelling brethren to the north and west.

Of course, we also greatly enjoyed the usual generous helpings of incredible birds, other mammals, and wildlife that we have come to expect from “South America’s Serengeti.” For most, if not all of us, the number one objective of the trip was to see Jaguars, and see them we certainly did!

Family of Capybara or blockheads © Andrew Whittaker

In fact, our luck with wild cats actually began on our first evening, days before arriving at the Jaguar Flotel & Suites. After an introductory drive into the Pantanal that produced a seemingly non-stop highlight reel of birds, we arrived at SouthWild Pantanal Lodge in time for a late lunch, followed by a short relaxed boat trip along the rio Pixaím that was highlighted by what would prove to be the first of multiple Agami . Following the boat trip we hiked, at dusk, 500 m out from the lodge along a trail leading to the gallery forest that borders the Pixaím. Once into the forest, we arrived at the specially constructed bleachers (formerly a two-story blind) made for Ocelot viewing and

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 photography. For the past three years, up to five habituated Ocelots have been visiting this spot to partake of raw chicken , in the process, providing South Wild guests with the rare opportunity to photograph these beautiful cats at close range. Luck was with us on this and for the next two nights, because one Ocelot (a female) showed up shortly after we had settled into position, and it stayed for an extended time, treating us all to stellar views as it gracefully walked over the fallen branches collecting scraps of fresh chicken. This was, in fact, my first time at this delightful feeding station, and our observations of this spectacular feline were certainly one of my personal trip highlights! We even heard my first ever Rufous in the Pantanal from over 30 years of visiting. They were most probably migrants; nightjars sing when migrating, which is rather odd.

Ocelot, SouthWild Pantanal (Santa Teresa) was another feline highlight © Andrew Whittaker

Of course, cats were far from the only mammalian highlights of our Pantanal safari. There is no better place in the world for viewing Giant Otters in the wild, a point that was driven home repeatedly during our various boat excursions. We enjoyed up-close-and- personal encounters with groups of these fascinating mammals on two of our four days based out of the Flotel, and, in the process, bore witness to all kinds of foraging and social behaviors, including otters ripping apart various , among them, the appropriately named Armored Catfish. We also enjoyed quality time with good numbers of Capybaras (“Blockheads!”) throughout; surprise encounters with a foraging Tayra (the closest thing in South America to our Wolverine); excellent studies of Brown Capuchins and Black Howler Monkeys; regal Marsh Deer and smaller and shier Red Brocket Deer and Gray (Amazonian Brown) Brocket Deer; and impressive numbers of both Greater

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 and Lesser bulldog bats along the larger rivers at dusk. And, although not fitting into the “mammal” category, the abundant Yacaré Caiman added greatly to the wildlife spectacle too.

However, another much sought-after mammalian highlight was the Brazilian Tapir, especially as, despite much effort at Pixiam, one had not turned up at the blind for its favorite mangos! However, luck was with us, as one evening I spotted a huge male leaving the forest and walking onto the beach, where it gave superb views before swimming across the Cuiaba River in front of us! Amazingly, with the motor off, I heard rustling in the nearby gallery forest and guessed another tapir. After a couple of minutes waiting, yet another appeared, as if by magic, and entered the river swimming in front of us, much to all our joy.

We enjoyed magical moments with Giant Otter groups © Andrew Whittaker

Birds abounded, as usual, and our birding was exceptional. We found it hard to leave the rich lodge garden at Pixiam on our first morning; it was filled with a cacophony of odd, loud voices from the incessant Chaco Chachalaca (which woke us up), to raucous Rufous Hornero and Gray-crested Cacholote duets and the harsh machine-gun rattle of Ringed as they competed with Amazon Kingfishers for the best perch in the garden to fish the rich Pixiaím riverbanks. Bird feeders were alive with activity as usual, graced early on by a pair of Toco Toucans (whose enormous flaming-orange bill has to be seen in the early morning sun to be believed); gobs of Yellow-billed Cardinals and this year very few Red-crested Cardinals; bossy and noisy Purplish Jays; stunning Orange-backed Troupial; Pale Bay-wings; Grayish Saltator; flocks of Picazuro Pigeons; colorful Chestnut-eared Aracaris; and flocks of the tiny of Saffron Finch. Graceful White-rumped Monjitas perched on the garden fences, and a gorgeous pair of Bare-faced Curassows later came into the garden, the male singing its odd, low-pitched vibration-like song.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

The truly impressive Toco Toucans at our lodge feeder © Andrew Whittaker

Our relaxed boat trips along the Rio Pixiam were very popular, and we enjoyed great encounters with the less common Capped and Boat-billed herons and Plumbeous . Best of all, however, we enjoyed seeing spectacular colorful adult and an immature Agami on multiple occasions, a couple of times in the open and at close range, amazingly now coming in to fish! Certainly the Agami must be one, if not the most beautiful of all herons. The Rio Pixíam always rewarded us with incredible photographic opportunities too. We enjoyed superb studies of all five South American kingfishers. The banks were graced by Gray-cowled Wood-Rails; however, the flashy Subitterns certainly stole the show, with multiple close observations in the early morning sun delighting us as they then flew and glided along the bank, showing off the amazing sun spots on their wings!

Agami Heron, SouthWild Pantanal (Santa Teresa), © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Uncontestably, however, the bird highlight of any Pantanal trip is having incredible and multiple breathtaking encounters with the glamour bird of the Pantanal, the spectacular and enormous Hyacinth Macaw, the world’s biggest parrot! As usual, we had excellent studies and scope views of this mega bird, and it was voted TOP bird of the trip! Other large birds brought about joy such as the odd but striking Red-legged Seriemas; flocks of huge prehistoric-looking flightless Greater Rheas; and stately and Maguari . And let’s not forget the smaller and drabber but neat views we had of both the colorful long-tailed Chotoy Spinetail and Long-tailed Ground Dove, which offered superb close studies around our lodge and garden.

Another iconic Pantanal species is the enormous , here juggling a piranha! © Andrew Whittaker

Our exploration along the nearby lodges tracks through lush gallery produced such gems as a spectacular crimson-red and black flash in the form of a stunning male Helmeted Manakin; rarely seen Pavonine ; wonderfully exuberant Pale-crested and Cream-colored woodpeckers; Blue-crowned Trogon; the tiny White-wedged Piculet; the odd but cool Red-billed Scythebill (what a bill); and Band-tailed antbirds; Large-billed Antwren; an obliging Rufous and Greater Thornbird; and more. However, most incredible were our point-blank views of a responsive pair of Russet-crowned Crakes, normally invisible grass-dwellers!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

A stunning male Helmeted Manakin © Andrew Whittaker

Leaving Pixiam and penetrating deeper into the Pantanal was also very productive with numerous different highlights: spectacular close daytime views of a neatly camouflaged roosting Nacunda Nighthawk, and a group of flashy White Woodpeckers displaying right over our heads against a solid cloudless blue sky. Farther south, waterbirds abounded with Wood Storks, , Roseate , Whistling Heron, and egrets lining the pools. A flash of color from the reed beds came in the form of a splendid Scarlet-headed Blackbird, plus our first stellar views of Southern Screamers and much more.

This tour will be remembered too for its countless magnificent sunsets and dawns. We took in the evening sky glowing like an orange ball over the Pantanal or early morning sun on the beach while listening to the musical backdrop of calling Black Skimmers that were courtship feeding etc., as well as Yellow and Large-billed terns displaying over their sand bar nesting sites. Colorful Pied Plovers graced the water’s edge (one with an ever so cute chick, like a small on oversized legs) with squabbling pairs of Collared Plovers. During our Jaguar boat excursions we enjoyed superb birding too, with many close encounters with King Vulture; no less than 4 different Undulated Tinamous; Red- throated Piping-Guan; graceful migrating Swallow-tailed Kites flying low over us; Little breeding; an amazing 4 different Subtropical Doraditos; a roosting Great Potoo; Xenopsaris; many excellent studies of Sungrebes; and much more.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Black Skimmers are incredible to watch fishing, slicing the water for prey © Andrew Whittaker

Heading north, leaving the lovely Cuiaba River, we enjoyed a rare sight in the form of a stunning austral migrant Long-winged Harrier hunting over the . Our afternoon destination, a nearby gallery forest, afforded us lovely studies of responsive Yellow- collared Macaws, which showed off their magnificent colors, giving incredible scope studies.

Moving base for the next two days, we explored the area around Piuval Lodge and the upper Pantanal with its wonderful comfortable new suites and different avifauna and . Here we found the lodge vicinity simply brimming with drying pools alive with trapped fish and the following throngs of hundreds of large water birds! Here, to my surprise, a breeding pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaws had taken up residence. We also managed to nail here another of our most wanted mammals, the Giant Anteater. Wow, we really hit the mother lode with the Anteater one early morning, as we enjoyed prolonged views, observing it feeding; finally, she crossed the road in front of us with a jockey on top in the form of an ever so cute baby! On our afternoon and night drives, we also managed to see well both Crab-eating Fox and South American Coati.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Pousada Piuval © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Black-collared Hawk with piranha © Andrew Whittaker

Birding here also produced non-stop excitement with raptors being a true highlight this year. I managed to locate a nesting site for Aplomado Falcon, of which we enjoyed exceptional views. One evening I lured in a very tape-responsive tawny morph female Collared Forest-Falcon, much to everyone’s delight! Several Crane Hawks and multiple Bat Falcons, which were breeding here, added to our raptor enthusiasts’ pleasure. We managed well on our night drive, locating a fantastic Black-banded Owl and super well- behaved Spot-tailed . Great Horned Owls were nesting, with 2 almost fully grown youngsters. Other goodies were lovely Campo Flickers, the localized White- fronted Woodpecker, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Black-bellied Antwren, Great Rufous Woodcreeper, and Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch. Sadly, we had no encounters with the Yellow Anaconda this year.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

A night highlight, Black-banded Owl, Pousada Piuval, with blood on its © Andrew Whittaker

Throughout the course of our Pantanal safari we also enjoyed lots of good food (including a visit to a particularly good churrascaria , or Brazilian barbeque), more than a few icy caipirinhas , and freshly squeezed exotic juices, and we witnessed some incredible sunsets and had lots of laughs. On behalf of Kíke and myself, you were a wonderful special group, and it was our great pleasure to share such an excellent action- packed two-week birding and mammal bonanza. It truly was my pleasure to guide you all. I look forward to sharing yet another exotic birding location with you all on another exciting VENT trip. Until then, take care and, as always, great birding!

ITINERARY:

9/3 – Overnight flights depart US cities for São Paulo; some participants and both leaders are already in Cuiabá. 9/4 – Participants arrive in São Paulo and connect to flight to Cuiabá. Tour officially convenes at 18:30h in the lobby of the Slaviero Slim, followed by dinner at the Aeroporto Grill for a great Brazilian barbeque down the street. 9/5 – Breakfast at our hotel, with checkout and departure. We drove to Poconé (gateway to the Transpantaneira), stopping a few kms outside of town at a roadside marsh, before continuing into town, where we stopped at the visitor center for a restroom & drinks break. After navigating through Poconé, we found ourselves on the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Transpantaneira, which we drove, with occasional opportunistic stops for birds (most notably at the Entrance Gate to the State Park), south to the bridge over the rio Pixaím (km 65) and then continued another kilometer to the turnoff to Fazenda Santa Teresa (SouthWild Pantanal Lodge). We arrived at the lodge in time for lunch, and then had an afternoon break. Afternoon boat trip down the rio Pixaím, birding by boat until returning to the lodge for a short bathroom/drink break. After we walked along a trail to the beginning of the gallery forest, where we positioned ourselves in a special photographic blind for Ocelot viewing. After the Ocelot show, we hiked back to the lodge for dinner at our Lodge. 9/6 – SouthWild Pantanal Lodge breakfast followed by birding on foot around the lodge grounds from 0715h until 0900h. After a 15-minute break, we hiked and birded the lodge trail system through the gallery forest. After lunch, checklist session and a break, we again took 2 small boats downstream along the rio Pixaím. Once again, we visited the Ocelot blind at dusk, followed by dinner back at the lodge at 1900h. Night at SouthWild Pantanal Lodge. 9/7 – SouthWild Pantanal Lodge: After breakfast we took the small boats upstream along the rio Pixaím. Lunch at 1200h, followed by checklist session and break until 1530h, when we once again took 2 boats upstream along the rio Pixaím for the remainder of the afternoon. We returned to the lodge before a visit to the popular Ocelot blind to say farewll to this magnificent feline. Sadly no sign of her cubs and no Tapir too. After dinner, we did a quick owling trip. 9/8 – SouthWild Pantanal Lodge: After a good breakfast, departing south with a half- hour or so of birding on foot along the first 300m of the entrance road, and then driving south along the Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre (with only a few opportunistic stops en route. Upon arrival at Porto Jofre, we said goodbye to Junior (our bus driver), and transferred to a boat piloted by João for the 40-minute ride up the rio Cuiabá to the Jaguar Flotel & Suites, which was anchored on the left bank of the rio Piquirí, just upstream from its mouth. After lunch and a short break, we headed out on our first boat excursion at 1500h, to “Jaguar Land” (the roughly 100 km2 of riverine forest dissected by the rios Piquirí, Cuiabá and Tres Irmãos and their various channels), down the Piquirí to the Cuiabá, up the rio Cuiabá to the rio Tres Irmãos (= Three Brothers), and up that river to Corixo Negro (= Black Channel) and a couple of side channels, returning to the Flotel at 1815h. Night on the Jaguar Flotel. 9/9 – Jaguar Flotel & Suites: After breakfast departure for morning boat excursion to “Jaguar Land”, looking for birds and jaguars. Back to the Flotel for lunch and break, prior to going out on our afternoon boat excursion, again to “Jaguar Land”, for the afternoon. Night on the Jaguar Flotel. 9/10 – Jaguar Flotel and Suites: breakfast with 0645h departure for morning boat excursion to “Jaguar Land”, looking for birds and jaguars. Back to the Flotel for lunch (1130h) and break, prior to going out on our afternoon boat excursion, back to “Jaguar Land”, from 1430–1800h. Night on the Jaguar Flotel. 9/11 – Jaguar Flotel and Suites: breakfast at 0600h, with 0645h departure for morning boat excursion to “Jaguar Land”, looking for birds and jaguars. Back to the Flotel for lunch (1130h) and break, prior to going out on our afternoon boat excursion, back to “Jaguar Land”, from 1500–1800h. Night on the Jaguar Flotel.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 9/12 – Jaguar Flotel & Suites: breakfast at 0600h, with 0645h departure for morning boat excursion up the rio Piquirí, traveling ca. 36 km one-way, with a one-hour stop to bird the grounds of the Piquirí Lodge, and back, returning to the flotel at 1115h for lunch. Post-lunch break until 1300h, when we settled up bills and loaded into a skiff for the return ride to Porto Jofre, where Junior was waiting for us with the bus. We then made the long ride back along the Transpantaneira to Santa Teresa, stopping to bird at the old IBAMA station at Campo Jofre, and along the side road to another abandoned IBAMA facility near Km 120. We made it back to Santa Teresa in time for dinner. Night at Santa Teresa (SouthWild Pantanal). 9/13 – SouthWild Pantanal Lodge: 0630h breakfast, followed by a boat trip upstream along the rio Pixaím from a couple of hours. Afterwards, we loaded onto the bus and drove north along the Transpantaneira to Pousada Rio Claro (1200h–1330h), where we ate lunch and added a few important birds to the list. After that, we drove on to Pousada Piuval, arriving around 1500h. The remainder of the afternoon we offered an optional late afternoon drive in an open-air safari truck. Night at Pousada Piuval. 9/14 – Pousada Piuval: Optional pre-breakfast drive (“anteater cruise”) out the entrance road, commencing at 0530h and ending at 0700h. Followed by a good breakfast and after depart at 0815h on the lodge truck for a morning excursion along main forest track to the Baía and back until 1200h, followed by lunch and break until 1530h, when we went back out, this time, more directly, to the boat launch site at the big lake, returning at 1800h. After dinner, we again offered an optional night drive in the safari truck from 2000h– 2200h. Night at Pousada Piuval. 9/15 – Pousada Piuval, following breakfast at 0730h. we did another excursion in our bus along the entrance road and Transpananiera to km 10, returning to the lodge to pack- up and eat lunch. Lunch and bags out at 1200h, departing 1300h for Cuiabá, and arriving there at 1545h, with final checklist session followed by a festive dinner at the Aeroporto Grill churrascaria (barbecue) at 1830h. Having to say a fond farewell to the folks not continuing on our Iguacu post trip. Night at Slaviero Slim. 9/16 – Transfers from the hotel to the airport for our flights to São Paulo, and then on to Iguaçu Falls for the Extension, or, to connections homeward.

7 FAVORITE BIRDS OF THE TRIP (as voted by the group):

1- HYACINTH MACAW 2- AGAMI HERON 3- BLACK-BANDED OWL 4- TOCO TOUCAN 5- JABIRU 6- COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (RUFOUS MORPH) 7- CAPPED HERON

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Jabiru at their nest, SouthWild Pantanal Lodge © Andrew Whittaker

BIRDS:

Rheidae (Rheas)

Greater (Rhea americana ) - Excellently observed multiple times. Proud dad with around 23 small babies (certainly more than one female laid in his nest) anyway it was a super cool “bamby moment”!

Tinamidae (Tinamous)

Undulated Tinamou (Crypturellus undulatus ) - Amazing studies on river bank of multiple birds!

Anhimidae (Screamers)

Southern Screamer (Chauna torquata ) - Seen daily including parents with downy youngsters at Campo Jofre.

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese & Swans)

White-faced Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna viduata ) – With dirty faces! Black-bellied Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis ) - Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata ) - Not many this year.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas & Allies)

Chaco Chachalaca (Ortalis canicollis ) - Abundant; seen and heard daily in good numbers, and, more often than not, their raucous dawn choruses provided our daily wake- up calls! Chestnut-bellied Guan (Penelope ochrogaster ) (E) - Best looks on the grounds of Piquirí Lodge. (The Pantanal is a stronghold for this threatened and restricted-range species.) Blue-throated Piping-Guan (Pipile cumanensis grayi ) - Common; seen daily. {This subspecies, with its pasty white facial skin and skinny throat wattle is sometimes treated as a separate species, “Gray’s Piping-Guan”. It looks very different from typical cumanensis with larger, cobalt blue gular skin and wattles. Conversely, other taxonomists treat cumanensis, grayi and cujubi as part of a single polytypic species, under the English name of “Common Piping-Guan”.} Red-throated Piping-Guan (Pipile cujubi ) - Only a couple of individuals seen this trip, along the Pixaím in Jaguar Land. Bare-faced Curassow (Crax fasciolata ) - Wonderful looks, the female simply rocks! Was supr cool watching and being able to hear close singing from the male hanging around the lodge at Santa Teresa.

Bare-faced Curassow (female), SouthWild Pantanal Lodge © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Columbidae (Pigeons & Doves)

Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis ) - Common; seen daily in small numbers, mostly perched along riparian corridors or in high-flying commutes during our boat trips. Picazuro Pigeon (Patagioenas picazuro ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers, particularly at Santa Teresa, where 30-40 were almost continuously present at feeding stations. Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti ) - Scattered singles, pairs and small groups seen, mostly along the Transpantaneira, but nearly absent in Jaguar Land. Scaled Dove (Columbina squammata ) - Mostly in the immediate vicinity of our lodges). Picui Ground-Dove (Columbina picui ) - Very uncommon rare and worrying!. Long-tailed Ground-Dove (Uropelia campestris ) - 6 seen super well at Santa Teresa. White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers, at lodge feeders and in flight, flashing across the various rivers in front of our boats, or, across the Transpantaneira, in front of our bus. Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata ) - Common at the feeders at Santa Teresa, or along the Transpantaneira.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos & Anis)

Guira Cuckoo (Guira guira ) - I love the Brazilian name for this cool bird White Ani! Numbers lower than normal. Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani ) - Small numbers seen daily, and at virtually all locales. Striped Cuckoo (Taperia naevia ) - Heard distantly and only seen in Jaguar Land once. Pavonine Cuckoo ( pavoninus ) – Good flight views of a way to responsive bird at Santa tersa gallery forest. Little Cuckoo (Coccycua minuta ) - Excellet multiple studies breeding in Jaguar Land. (Piaya cayana ) - Fairly common.

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars & Allies)

Nacunda Nighthawk (Podager nacunda ) - found one roosting along the Pixiam flushed and gave great flight views. No more! Band-tailed Nighthawk (Nyctiprogne leucopyga ) - Common at dusk along the Pixaím, Cuiabá, Tres Irmãos, and Piquirí rivers. Common Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis ) - Good views of spotlighted birds, especially, at Piuval during our night drives. Rufous Nightjar (Caprimulgus rufus ) - * First time I have ever heard or recorded in the Pantanal first night at Ocelot blind 2 birds singing! Little Nightjar (Setopagis parvula ) - * Spot-tailed Nightjar (Hydropsalis maculicaudus ) – Stunning views of a female at Piuval on our night drive.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Nyctibiidae (Potoos)

Great Potoo (Nyctibius grandis ) - 1 seen incredibly well on its day roost on a Juguar boat trip and several another spotlighted during our night drive at Piuval.

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

Buff-bellied Hermit (Phaethornis subochraceus ) - 1 briefly seen along the river flying across by some at Santa Teresa provided our only record. White-tailed Goldenthroat (Polytmus guainumbi ) - Wonderful studies of several at flowering tree at Piuval. Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Euetomena macroura ) – Only one seen well at Piuval. Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata) - Stunning males were seen at Santa Teresa, females at Piuval. Glittering-throated Emerald (Amazilia fimbriata ) - The most common hummingbird in the Pantanal, at least in this season. We recorded 1–3 individuals on feeders at Santa Tersa. Gilded Hummingbird (Hylochris chrysura ) – A few seen, best on IBAMA road in the scope. Used to be called Gilded Sapphire.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules & Coots)

Gray-cowled Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea ) - Common but always a cool looker! {Note that the English name of this bird has been changed with the recent split of “Gray- necked Wood-Rail”. Populations from Mexico to the slope of Costa Rica ( A. albiventris ) are now known as “Russet-naped Wood-Rail”, whereas populations from the Pacific slope of Costa Rica south to are known as “Gray-cowled Wood-Rail”.} Russet-crowned Crake (Anurolimnas viridis ) - I heard a closeish pair singing on our first day in gallery forest at Santa Teresa. Decided worth of a try hoping for a miracle. Kiki whispered there impossible! Well Bluetooth worked like a treat as a pair rushed in and gave outstanding views to all. A trip highlight for sure for all.

Heliornithidae (Finfoots)

Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica ) - Scattered individuals seen along the rio Pixaím, and seen in Jaguar Land but fewer than normal.

Sungrebe (male), rio Pixaím, © Andrew Whittaker

Aramidae (Limpkin)

Limpkin (Aramus guarauna ) - Common.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Charadriidae (Plovers & Lapwings)

Pied Lapwing (Vanellus cayanus ) - Common on sandbars along the rios Cuiabá, Tres Irmãos, and Piquirí, where we saw one cute baby too! Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis ) - Common seen almost daily. Remember my explanation that this subspecies cayanensis in time will be split from southern birds chilensis & fretensis , which are the true Southern Lapwing. This will possibly be called Cayanne Lapwing lets see. Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris ) - 4 seen on a sandbar in Jaguar Land having a communal boundry brawl.

Jacanidae (Jacanas)

Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana ) - This is another wetland species that seems to be decidedly less common in recent years, coincident with a general drying trend in the Pantanal.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers & Allies)

Spotted Sandpiper ( Actitis macularius ) – A few migrants already here. Solitary Sandpiper ( Tringa solitaria ) – Nice looks at several.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns & Skimmers)

Yellow-billed Tern (Sterna superciliaris ) - Uncommon and only along the rio Cuiabá and its various tributaries. Large-billed Tern (Phaetusa simplex ) - 1–12 seen daily, particularly along the various rivers dissecting Jaguar Land. Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger ) - Small numbers seen daily along the larger rivers running through Jaguar Land, most notably the small colony along the Piquirí where adults were courtship feeding and mateing with one full grown youngster. Also one high over Santa Tersa on early morning. Love this birds voice for me it was a delight to watch their behavior at the colony.

Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)

Sunbittern (Eurypyga helias ) - Seen well but numbers way down! Curiously inconspicuous this trip in Jaguar Land.

Ciconidae (Storks)

Maguari (Ciconia maguari ) - We saw only two the whole trip! Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria ) - Common; with 2–15 seen daily. We saw several active nests, including the one at Santa Teresa, which contained 3 downy youngsters.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Wood Stork (Mycteria americana ) - Common; seen daily, both in the roadside marshes along the Transpantaneira, and, in high-soaring flocks overhead.

Anhingidae (Anhingas & Darters)

Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)

Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers along all of the rivers and streams, with smaller numbers out in the more open marshes.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets & )

Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum ) - Common; seen daily, at all locales with water. Interesting only one immature plumaged bird! Numbers to me way down.

Boat-billed Heron (adult), rio Pixaím, © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 ( cocoi ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers (up to 50+/day) and at all locales visited. (Ardea alba) - Common; seen daily in good numbers and at all locales visited, including some large concentrations along the Transpantaneira. Snowy Egret (Egretta thula ) - Common; Large concentrations seen at various spots along the Transpantaneira. Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea ) - Scattered individuals (mostly adults) seen along the Transpantaneira, along the rio Pixaím and at Piuval. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis ) - Common in the vicinity of livestock in pastures between Cuiabá and Poconé, and along the Transpantaneira. Striated Heron (Butorides striatus ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers and at all locales. Agami Heron (Agamia agami ) - We enjoyed several encounters with these spectacular herons along the rio Pixaím, both snazzy adults and one immature. Amazing studies to me of one if not the World’s most beautiful Heron! Whistling Heron (Syrigma sibilatrix ) - Scattered singles or pairs recorded, amazing flock of 35 at Piuval was the largest concentration I have ever seen! Capped Heron (Pilerhodias pileatus ) - Always a stunner!

Capped Heron, Rio Cuiaba © Andrew Whittaker

Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax ) - Common. Boat-billed Heron (Cochlearius cochlearius ) - Fewer than normal, but we still recorded well on our boat trips along the rio Pixaím. Adults and juv seen. Such huge eyes an adaptation for crepuscular/night feeding.

Threskiornithidae ( & )

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis ) - Neat looker. Bare-faced Ibis (Phimosus infuscatus ) - Uncommon and few singles only. ( caerulescens ) - Less than normal and non vocal! Seen well always prehistoric looking to me. Buff-necked Ibis (Theristicus caudatus ) - Common. (Ajaia ajaja ) - Scattered singles most at Piuval.

Cathartidae (New World Vultures)

King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa ) - One neat adult perched along the rio Piquirí provided great views. Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers, and at all locales visited. Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura ruficollis ) - Less common than the next species, and seen on only 4 of 11 days, but no doubt under-recorded because many vultures seen during our drives or boat trips were not examined closely enough to distinguish between this species and the next. Note splits probable, some infact already call this resident form Neotropical Turkey Vulture! Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus ) - Common.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles & Kites)

Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis ) - Common and a super looker, it was great to see it fishing so close! Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus ) – Migrant and uncommon in the Pantanal we had a small flock over the Cuiaba River one day. Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis ) - Seen daily, and at all locales. Observed them feeding on land crabs as well as snails. Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea ) - Strong migration with many days top cont of 25+. Long-winged Harrier (Circus buffoni ) – A great find of a superb plumaged bird an austral migrant hunting at close quarters. Very rare here. Crane Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens ) - Less conspicuous than usual, with just a single individual seen in Jaguar Land and Piuval. Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis ) - Common; 2–10 birds seen daily. Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga ) - This species, which is more typical of wetlands and riverine forest seems to have declined over much of the more open country along the Transpantaneira, coincident with the drying trend that seems to have helped the Savanna Hawks. Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris ) - 1–5 individuals/day. White-tailed Hawk (Geranoaetus albicaudatus ) – A few along the Cuiaba River soaring in thermals.

Strigidae (Typical Owls)

Tropical Screech-Owl (Megascops choliba ) - *

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus ) - Seen at Santa Teresa by most coming into tape and we had great views of a birds on its nest at Piuval. {As we mentioned during the tour, the Great Horned Owls in this part of South America differ somewhat vocally and morphologically from northern populations, the significance of which should be investigated.) Also differ in eye color and size too. Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium brasilianum ) - One at Piuval. Black-banded Owl (Ciccaba huhula ) - 2 spectacular individual seen on our night drive at Piuval were very responsive.

Trogonidae (Trogons & Quetzals)

Blue-crowned Trogon (Trogon curucui ) - Uncommon this year but seen well. Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

Ringed (Ceryle torquata ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers along all rivers and channels that we boated, and also seen in wetlands the length of the Transpantaneira. (Chloroceryle amazona ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers along all rivers and channels that we boated, and also seen in wetlands the length of the Transpantaneira. Particularly noteworthy was the female that, hitchhiked on our boat along the rio Pixaím and took small fish from my hand. American Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea ) - Wonderful multiple studies. (Chloroceryle americana ) - Uncommon. Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda ) - 1 seen very well along the Pixaím river perched, others in flight.

Ringed Kingfisher, rio Pixaím, © Andrew Whittaker

Bucconidae (Puffbirds)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons) - Recorded from virtually all sites visited.

Galbulidae (Jacamars)

Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda ) - Recorded from virtually all sites visited. Lovely iridescence seen on several smart close observations.

Ramphastidae (Toucans & Aracaris)

Chestnut-eared Araçari (Pteroglossus castanotis ) - Common and colorful. Toco Toucan (Ramphastos toco ) - Most notably, a pair visited the feeders daily at Santa Teresa. Magnificent critter and what a bill!

Picidae (Woodpeckers & Allies)

White-wedged Piculet (Picumnus albosquammatus ) - Fine studies of a male responding to my playback on our boat trip at Pixiam. White Woodpecker (Melanerpes candidus ) - Wonderful studies of a very responsive group at Santa Teresa displaying and showing off to us. White-fronted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cactorum ) – Rare here and seen well one pair at Piuval. Little Woodpecker (Veniliornis passerinus ) - Scattered singles/pairs seen well. Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos ) - Male seen well excavating a nest hole at Rip Piquiri. Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus ) - 1 seen in Jaguar Land. Cream-colored Woodpecker (Celeus flavus) - Several nice studies. Pale-crested Woodpecker (Celeus lugubris ) - Our first one was a close male along the Pixaím. Certainly a snazzy beast. Golden-green Woodpecker (Piculus chrysochloros ) - 1 distant from Jaguar Land. Green-barred Woodpecker (Colaptes melanochloros ) - Nice looks first day. Campo Flicker (Colaptes campestris ) - Crashing in numbers gladly still fairly easy at Piuval as it’s a realy neat looker!

Cariamidae (Seriemas)

Red-legged Seriema (Cariama cristata ) - Our first was in the middle of the Transpantaneira. We didn’t see it again until we returned to the drier northern portion of the Transpantaneira at Piuval.

Falconidae (Falcons & Caracaras)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Collared Forest-Falcon (Micrastur semitorquatus ) – WOW what luck, trawling with its voice one evening on our truck drive and at last a response. Sharp eyed Kiki spotted a glorious tawny morph big female perched. The jays were certainly not happy. It came back in giving superb flight views and perched. We all enjoyed magical scope studies of this rarely seen shy forest raptor. Voted into top 7! Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus ) - Common; seen in good numbers daily and at all locales visited. {Previously called “Southern ”, and before that, lumped with birds ranging from the southern U.S. to northern South America, and simply called “Crested Caracara”.} Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima ) - 2 seen along the highway between Cuiabá and Poconé were our only records. This species has seemingly gotten much scarcer in the northern Pantanal over the past 20 years. Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans ) - Nice looks at this specialist. Closely related to Forest-Falcons! Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis ) - Thankfully I found a nest being built early am am. Returning after a wait we were rewarded with stunning looks of a male. Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis ) - A bird perched near the abandoned IBAMA station on the Km 120 side road on the afternoon of 8/28 offered up prolonged, sensational studies. Followed by a pair at Piuval which offered the same. Incresing maybe in the upper Pantanal.

Psittacidae (Parrots, Macaws & Allies)

Monk Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus ) - Much scarcer than usual, although still fairly common. As is usually the case, there were at least a few pairs nesting in the bottom of the active Jabiru nest at Santa Teresa. Yellow-chevroned Parakeet (Brotogeris chiriri ) - Common; seen daily in small numbers. Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximilliani ) - Not nearly as conspicuous as usual. Turquoise-fronted Parrot (Amazona aestiva ) - Common and cool looking. {Also called “Blue-fronted Parrot” in some references, but that forehead really is turquoise!} Hyacinth Macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus ) - Our first pair, seen at their nest along the Transpantaneira. We enjoyed many more superb views of this classic species the World’s largest parrot! Voted “Favorite Bird” of the trip! Peach-fronted Parakeet (Aratinga aurea ) - Common. Nanday (Black-hooded) Parakeet (Aratinga nenday ) - Seen well at our lunch stop at Rio Claro, just like we planned it! Yellow-collared (Golden-collared) Macaw (Primolius auricollis ) - Excellent scope studies of 6 birds along the Km 120 side road on the afternoon. So tape responsive. Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna ) - A pair of birds nesting in a dead palm tree at Piuval was a real treat. Blue-crowned Parakeet (Aratinga acuticaudata ) - Brief by only way down in numbers. White-eyed Parakeet (Aratinga leucophthalmus ) - Uncommon most around the lodge grounds at Piuval.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019

Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)

Great Antshrike (Taraba major ) - Excellet studies of a responsive male at Santa Teresa. This species is a notorious skulker over much of its extensive range, but they are usually much more conspicuous along this route than they were this trip. Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus ) - Nice. Planalto Slaty-Antshrike (Thamnophilus pelzelni ) - Seen nicely at Santa Tersa and Piuval. (Dysithamnus mentalis ) - Worked on it but seen at Santa Teresa, non vocal though. Large-billed Antwren (Herpsilochmus longirostris ) - Seen particularly well in the gallery forest along the Santa Teresa trail system. Black-bellied Antwren (Formicivora melanogaster ) - Great studies of this nominate form at Piuval, where I heard several more vocal birds. Rusty-backed Antwren (Formicivora rufa ) - 2 (pair) seen along the entrance road to Santa Teresa. Mato Grosso Antbird (Cercomacra melanaria ) - Multiple birds heard and seen nicely at Santa Teresa. Band-tailed Antbird (Hypocnemoides melanopogon) - Seen well along the rio Pixaím and Jaguar Land.

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds & Woodcreepers)

Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus ) - Individuals seen in Jaguar Land and Piuval . Great Rufous Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes major ) - What a honking bill and good studies at Piuval. Buff-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatus dorbignyanus ) - 1 seen along the trail system at Santa Teresa. Straight-billed Woodcreeper (Dendroplex picus ) - Piuval seen a pair well. Numbers down! Red-billed Scythebill (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris lafresnayanus ) - Seen several times particularly well. How I love this species and what a beak. {This is another species complex that will eventually be split multiple ways, so keep track of where you have seen your scythebills!} Narrow-billed Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris ) - 1-2 birds seen on each of 5 days, particularly around the SouthWild Pantanal Lodge at Santa Teresa, and also at Piuval. Pale-legged Hornero (Furnarius leucopus) - Common along all of the rivers that we boated, and seen nicely on numerous occasions. Rufous Hornero (Furnarius rufus ) - Common. Rufous-fronted Thornbird (Phacellodomus rufifrons ) - A pair seen well at Santa Teresa. Greater Thornbird (Phacellodomus ruber ) - Common.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Rusty-backed Spinetail (Cranioleuca vulpina ) - Very tape responsive giving great views. Gray-crested Cacholote (Pseudoseisura unirufa ) - First seen at our marsh stop along the highway outside of Poconé. {Formerly lumped with populations from northeast Brazil, with the combined species then being called “Rufous Cacholote”. Kevin and I published a paper in The Condor in 2000 showing that the two populations differed morphologically, vocally and behaviorally, and that they should be split. The birds from northeastern Brazil are now called “”.} Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Certhiaxis cinnamomea ) - Less conspicuous than usual. Chotoy Spinetail (Schoeniophylax phryganophila ) - Pairs seen beautifully at Santa Teresa and at Piuval. White-lored Spinetail (Synallaxis albilora ) - Great looks at a skulker. Cinereous-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis hypospodia ) - * Would not come into tape playback. Sooty-fronted Spinetail (Syynallaxis frontalis ) – Piuval.

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)

Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum ) - Mouse-colored Tyrannulet (Phaeomyias murina ) – One seen well at Santa Teresa. Subtropical Doradito (Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis ) - An amazing 3 different birds seen! There still is some question as to whether the doraditos seen in the Pantanal in this season are migrant Subtropical Doraditos, or whether they could belong to a cryptic, as yet unnamed taxon that is actually resident here. For now, they are being called P. acutipennis . Forest Elaenia (Myiopagis gaimardii ) - These inconspicuous flycatchers are heard more often than seen, but we still managed good looks on a few occasions. Greenish Elaenia (Myiopagis viridicata ) - * Small-billed Elaenia (Elaenia parvirostris) – A couple of these migrants seen. Lesser Elaenia ( Elaenia chiriquensis ) – leader only Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus ) - * Not tape responsive. Southern Scrub-Flycatcher (Sublegatus modestus ) – Nice looks at owl mobbing scene. Plain Tyrannulet (Inezia inornata ) - Seen well these are austral migrants, wintering in the Pantanal. They are most commonly seen at pygmy-owl mob scenes. Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant (Euscarthmus meloryphus ) - * Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus striaticollis ) - Nice studies at Pixiam where very vocal. Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer ) - Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus latirostris ) - Seen nicely at Santa Teresa. Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum ) - Individuals seen nicely at Santa Teresa. Yellow-olive Flycatcher (Tolmomyias sulphurescens pallescens ) - {As we discussed during the tour, this is another species-complex that is in the process of being split multiple ways, so pay attention to where you’ve seen your “Yellow-olive Flycatchers”.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Note that some authors use the group name “Flatbill” rather than “Flycatcher” for members of the Tolmomyias .} Fuscous Flycatcher (Cnemotriccus fuscatus bimaculatus ) - {Yet another group that is ripe for splitting, into at least 3 species. All of our birds are referable to the subspecies bimaculatus .} Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus ) - Very few mostly females. Gray Monjita (Xolmis cinereus ) - 1 seen well at the lodge at Piuval was our only record. White-rumped Monjita (Xolmis velatus ) - Always a smart looker great studies. Streamer-tailed Tyrant (Gubernetes yetapa ) – Wonderful dispaly of tape responsive birds on way into Pantanal. Black-backed Water-Tyrant (Fluvicola albiventer ) - Locales near water; particularly common this trip especially in Jaguar Land. White-headed Marsh-Tyrant (Arundinicola leucocephala ) - Less conspicuous than usual. Males certainly well named! Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis rixosa ) - Common. Dull-capped (White-eyed) Attila (Attila bolivianus ) - * None responsive. Rufous Casiornis (Casiornis rufus ) - Singles along the Santa Teresa trail system on the morning and at Ibama and at Piuval. Short-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox ) - Brown-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus tyrannulus ) - Fairly common. Lesser Kiskadee (Pitangus lictor ) - Common always along rivers. (Pitangus sulphuratus ) - Abundant; seen daily in good numbers. Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua ) - * Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis ) - Common; several scattered pairs and individuals seen daily. Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus ) Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius ) - * Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus ) - Abundant. Our visit coincided with the arrival of the first birds of this species back to the Pantanal from wintering areas farther north. They will become progressively more common over the next several weeks. Fork-tailed Flycatcher (Tyrannus savana ) - Like the Tropical Kingbird, this is a migrant that was just beginning to arrive in the Pantanal.

Pipridae (Manakins)

Helmeted Manakin (Antilophia galeata ) - This is always a mega species to see our encounters with males rocked!

Tityridae (Tityras, Becards & Allies)

Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana ) - Nice. Black-crowned Tityra (Tityra inquisitor ) - Seen at Piuval. White-naped Xenopsaris (Xenopsaris albinucha ) – Good find Kiki taped a responsive young male in Jaguar Land. A very low density species here, easily overlooked.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Green-backed Becard (Pachyramphus viridis ) - Very smart becard seen well at Santa Teresa and Juguar Land.

Vireonidae ( & Greenlets)

Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis ) - * Ashy-headed Greenlet (Hylophilus pectoralis ) - Good looking bird. Chivi (Vireo chivi ) – At last split from Red-eyed Vireo.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays & Magpies)

Purplish Jay (Cyanocorax cyanomelas ) - 2–12 birds seen daily; a fixture at the Santa Teresa feeders.

Hirundinidae (Swallows & Martins)

Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers near water, particularly from Porto Jofre to Jaguar Land. Austral migrants increasing numbers for sure! Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea ) - Small numbers seen most days, particularly in the vicinity of lodges. Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera ) - Small numbers seen daily. White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers near water throughout.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor ) - Seen/heard daily in small numbers. Represented here by the unspotted subspecies unicolor, which looks very different from (but sounds the same as) the spotted forms in Amazonia. Moustached Wren (Pheugopedius genibarbis ) - Heard mostly, but seen only along the trail system at Santa Teresa along the Pixaím. Buff-breasted Wren (Cantorchilus leucotis rufiventris ) - * Amazingly not seen. Fawn-breasted Wren (Thryothorus guarayanus ) - Seen nicely this skulker along the Km 120 side road on the afternoon.

Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers & Gnatwrens)

Masked Gnatcatcher (Polioptila dumicola ) - 2–8 birds seen daily; encountered mostly as pairs responding to pygmy-owl playback.

Donacobiidae (Donacobius)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapilla ) - 2–12 birds seen daily, except for our two days at Piuval.

Turdidae (Thrushes & Allies)

Rufous-bellied Thrush (Turdus rufiventris ) - Scattered singles seen. Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus ) - Singles seen.

Mimidae (Mockingbirds & Thrashers)

Chalk-browed Mockingbird (Mimus saturninus ) - Scattered individuals seen along the Transpantaneira and at Piuval.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias & Allies)

Purple-throated Euphonia (Euphonia chlorotica) – Not so common. Violaceous Euphonia (Euphonia violacea ) - *

Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)

Grassland Sparrow (Ammodramus humeralis ) - Seen well at Piuval, scarce.

Icteridae (Orioles, Blackbirds & Allies)

Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus ) - Fairly common. Solitary Black Cacique (Cacicus solitarius ) - Seen well common individual birds along the rio Pixaím, or, visiting the lodge feeders, at Santa Teresa. Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela ) - Common. Variable Oriole (Icterus pyrrhopterus ) - Pairs were seen at Santa Teresa on feeders and at Piuval, but were less conspicuous than normal. {Previously called “Epaulet Oriole”, but yellow-shouldered, bigger birds of the Amazon Basin were shown to differ genetically and vocally, and were split from the smaller southern birds, whose epaulet color varies geographically, from yellow, to tawny, to chestnut (as in the Pantanal populations), hence the new English name of “Variable Oriole”.} Orange-backed Troupial (Icterus croconotus ) - Birds seen on all but two days. Regular around the lodge at Santa Teresa. Shiny (Molothrus bonariensis ) - Common; good numbers seen. Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus ) - 1-2 birds seen daily at the feeding stations at Santa Teresa and Piuval. Scarlet-headed Blackbird (Amblyramphus holosericeus ) - Kíke brought in a beuty for us at a marsh along the dirt highway. Enjoying great scope views of this smart bird. Chopi Blackbird (Gnorimopsar chopi ) - First seen at Rio Claro during our lunch stop and then a flock was seen around the parking lot next to the lodge at Piuval. Grayish (Molothrus badius badius ) - Common. {Formerly called “Bay- winged Cowbird”. These birds, unlike other “” are not brood parasites, and, as

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 such, are now referred to as simply “” by most authors. The populations from the interior of northeastern Brazil [subspecies fringillarius = “”] are now considered specifically distinct from nominate badius , hence the new modifier “Grayish” to the English name of badius .} Unicolored Blackbird (Agelasticus cyanopus ) - Seen mostly in open marshes along the Transpantaneira. One large flock of 200 + at Campo Jofre was the largest flock I have ever seen!

Parulidae (New World Warblers)

Tropical Parula (Setophaga pitiayumi ) Flavescent Warbler (Basileuterus flaveolus ) - Nice views in Santa Tersa gallery forest.

Thraupidae ( & Allies)

Red-crested Cardinal (Paroaria coronata ) - Sadly much less conspicuous than usual. Seen at the feeding station at Santa Teresa only. Yellow-billed Cardinal (Paroaria capitata ) - Abundant; seen daily in good numbers, particularly along the various rivers that we boated, and at lodge feeders. Hooded (Nemosia pileata ) - 2 (pair) joined a mob scene along the Santa Teresa trail system (right by the Ocelot blind). Seen at Piuval too. White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus ) – Piuval. Gray-headed Tanager (Eucometis penicillata ) – IBAMA road seen well plus Santa Tersa trails. Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo ) - Common; seen daily along the various rivers and at lodge feeders (including individuals at the Santa Teresa hummingbird feeders that were literally dripping with leaking sugar water!). Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca ) - Common. Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum ) - 2–5 seen around the lodge at Santa Teresa, but not seen again thereafter. Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum ) - 2 joined a pygmy-owl mob scene both at Santa Teresa & Piuval. Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola ) - Common. Splits on the way this sub species pelzelni is tiny! Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) - Scattered individuals seen along the Transpantaneira and in the pastures at Santa Teresa and at Piuval. White-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila leucoptera ) - Few but seen well. Tawny-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila hupoxantha ) – Nice find rediscoving the birds I had pre breakfast at Piuval. Uncommon to rare in the Pantanal. Chestnut-bellied (Lesser) -Finch (Sporophila angolensis) - Nice male at Piuval. Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch (Emberizoides herbicola ) – Nice responsive bird at Piuval seen well. Rusty-collared Seedeater (Sporophila collaris ) - Very few this year. Red-crested Finch ( cucullatus ) - Seen at Piuval only to my surprise. {You will see this called “Red Pileated-Finch” in some references. Bob Ridgely coined this name, and called its gray-bodied congener “Gray Pileated-Finch”. Both species have

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 identical black-bordered red crests, so calling one “Red-crested” and the other “Pileated” (as is currently the case), doesn’t make a whole lot of sense. Both species are “Pileated”, but differ in being red-bodied versus gray-bodied, so Ridgley’s choice of English names make a lot more sense to me.} Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola ) - Grayish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens ) - Scattered sightings of individuals and pairs at all sites.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus ) - Seen only in Cuiabá and Poconé.

Total = 255 species

MAMMALS:

Giant Anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactila ) – Wow what a show we had a female with baby on its back. Riding jockey style and even not falling off as its mum went under a fence. A super cool hard to get top 5 South American mammal!

Giant Anteater with baby hanging on for dear life © Roger Almklov

Brown (Black-capped/Tufted) Capuchin (Cebus apella ) - Common great studies. This is the most frequently seen in the Pantanal.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 33 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Black Howler Monkey (Alouatta caraya ) - Less conspicuous than usual. We saw well however from boat trips along the rio Pixaím & Cuiaba.

Capybara (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris ) - Common; seen daily, including family groups with adorable little babies. Exceptionally tame at Santa Teresa.

Azara’s Agouti (Dasyprocta azarae )

Tropical Cottontail (Sylvilagus brasiliensis ) - A few seen on our night drives at Santa Teresa and Piuval.

Long-nosed (Proboscis) Bat (Rhynchonycteris naso ) - Seen roosting in a long line about 15 on a tree in Jaguar Land. Well spotted Kiki!

Lesser Bulldog Bat (Noctilio albiventris ) - Seen in numbers at dusk at Pixiam.

Greater Bulldog Bat (Noctilio leporinus ) - Many seen exceptionally well at dusk in good light along the rio Cuiabá and rio Piquirí.

Brazilian Free-tailed Bat (Tadarida brasilensis ) - High flying and fast.

Black Myiotis (Myiotis nigricans ) Nice find by Kiki in the restaurant, tiny and released thankfully looking well.

Ocelot (Leopardus pardalis ) - 1 seen on three nights at the blind on the SouthWild (Santa Teresa) trail system, put on a sensational show.

Jaguar (Panthera onca ) - My best Jaguar show ever! We had 14 different encounters, involving 9 different individuals, spread over our three full days based off of the Flotel. Who will ever forget the two brothers show!!!!!

Crab-eating (Savanna) Fox (Cerdocyon thous ) - One or more pairs were also seen well on our night drives at Piuval.

Tayra (Eira Barbara ) - 1 seen quickly crossing the road.

Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis ) - 1–2 groups seen daily along the rio Piquirí/Cuiabá/Tres Irmãos/Corixo Negro. Certainly the Pantanal is the best spot in South America to observe these fabulous water LIONS as they are called here. So privaliged to spend time observing them fishing etc!

South American Coati (Nasua nasua ) - One seen nicely at Piuval.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 34 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Brazilian Tapir (Tapirus terrestris ) – Another highlight was seeing three of these monsters! Two swimming across the Cuiaba river from our boat plus and one at dusk on Santa Teresa entrance road from our bus. Easily missed.

Brazilian Tapir © Andrew Whittaker

Marsh Deer (Blastocerus dichotomus ) - Few but great looks.

Red Brocket Deer (Mazama americana ) - 1 seen near Santa Teresa.

Gray (Amazonian Brown) Brocket Deer (Mazama gouazoubira ) - Seen at Piuval.

Total = 21 species

REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS:

Yacaré Caiman (Caiman yacare ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers. (The Brazilian name is “Jacaré.”)

Purple Tighed Tree Frog Fide Kiki I can not find a latin name.

Black-and-white Tegu (Tupinambis meriana )

Green Iguana (Iguana iguana ) - Seen several times along the various rivers.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019 Racer Snake sp?

Red-spotted Tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonarius )

Sunset with Jaguar © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 36 Brazil: Pantanal Safari, September 2019