For additional reviews, photography and trip videos, view the digital magazine edition of Hideaway Report. { View online or on an iPad® } ANDREW HARPER’S ®

SEPTEMBER 2012 | OUR 34TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com candid reviews by a writer who travels incognito and always pays his own way

was launched in April 1931, the vessel sailed under that Sailing the Aegean Aboard name until 1935 when, after Post and Hutton divorced, the Romantic Sea Cloud II Post renamed her Sea Cloud. This beautiful four-masted barque later had a colorful history that included active summer. sailing. greek isles. service as a weather ship in World War II and ownership Put these together and they by the dictator of the , Rafael Trujillo. Eventually, she ended up in , scheduled for a sad promise nothing but pleasure. demise brought on by an invidious combination of tropical I had been pondering a trip heat and humidity. to for some time, but In 1978, a German economist and sailing enthusiast, was daunted by the atrocious Hartmut Paschburg, determined to save this extraordinary vessel with the aid of a group of Hamburg businessmen. economic and political situation. Eight months of extensive renovations brought Sea Cloud But a cruise through the Mediterranean, far from back to life as a cruise ship and, with the exception of a big cities with their potential for unrest, seemed major refurbishment from November 2010 to April 2011, a perfect solution. she has plied the seas since. In 1994, new owners acquired the Sea Cloud and soon decided, owing to the popularity of The vessel that had caught my fancy was the the original, to build a sister ship. Constructed to exacting Sea Cloud II, part of a three-ship fleet owned by the standards over a period of three years, Sea Cloud II was German company Sea Cloud Cruises. The company’s name launched in February 2001. At 384 feet, she has 29 cabins derives from its first ship, the magnificent private yacht and 16 junior suites on the Cabin and Promenade decks, of heiress and businesswoman Marjorie Merriweather plus two owner’s suites on the Lido Deck, and carries a Post that was a gift from her husband, Wall Street legend maximum of 94 passengers attended by 65 crew. E.F. Hutton. Post oversaw every detail of the design and As we approached the passenger-ship dock in interior appointments. Christened Hussar when she Istanbul’s Karaköy, at the mouth of the Golden Horn,

H H In this issue 5 Cappadocia Revisited … AND Online

1 Greek Island Odyssey 6 Update The Hideaway Report digital Cruising from Istanbul to Athens on The new Barnes Foundation, plus magazine, available free to members the three-masted yacht Sea Cloud II The reappraised at AndrewHarper.com, features more than 75 pages of reviews, trip 4 Amanresorts in 8 Reader Survey 2012 photography and videos. Exclusive Seductive Amanruya debuts on Members list their Top 20 content this month includes the Aegean coast near Bodrum U.S. and International Hideaways additional Reader Survey results.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected] AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected] our driver insisted that we wanted to go to one of the watching Istanbul and its great landmarks, Hagia Sophia large white cruise liners at the far end of the quay. No, I and the Blue Mosque, slide past. Our fellow passengers assured him, we were in search of one with three masts. He seemed to be an international group ranging in age from looked unconvinced. Dockside, a complement of attractive the mid-50s to the mid-60s. young people outfitted in tailored navy uniforms pressed During the night, the Sea Cloud II cruises under the cold drinks and even colder towels into our hands. I have power of its two engines. In our cabin, the only sound boarded some fairly impressive vessels in my day, but we could hear — especially as we were up front toward going on a yacht of this size was a genuine thrill. the bow — was the swish of the sea against the hull. A steward led us to our air-conditioned cabin, which I found this almost hypnotic and, combined with the proved to be a smartly designed space with polished gentle rocking of the waves, highly conducive to a good woodwork that included a custom-made armoire with a night’s sleep. TV and DVD. We also discovered a refrigerator, ample At sea I tend to rise early so I can sit on deck with a closets, a small sitting area adjacent to two large portholes, cup of coffee to watch the sunrise. It was not until 8 a.m. and a very comfortable bed. With dark-blue carpeting, that the captain gave the order to raise the sails. But what well-placed lights and a mirrored dressing table, the cabin a spectacle! There wasn’t a moment that failed to amaze was the embodiment of homey elegance. The bath was me. Designated crew members ascended the masts — of good size, clad in sienna-colored marble and equipped the tallest of which is 171 feet high — and then worked with well-planned storage space that kept all of our their way along the yards. On deck, other crew raced in toiletries at hand. The shower had excellent pressure choreographed chaos to loosen lines. For a while, the deck looked as though a giant had spilled a huge bowl of spaghetti. But in minutes, all the ropes were neatly coiled, and above us, the white sheets billowed as they caught the wind. The three masts carry 23 sails, comprising 32,000 square feet of canvas and managed by 13 miles of rope, steel wire and plastic cable. (The Sea Cloud II ’s sails generally stayed spread until we approached our daily port of call, when they were furled and the switch made to engine power to allow for greater maneuverability.) Appetites stimulated by other peoples’ exertions, we headed to breakfast, a feast of omelets, bacon, ham, smoked fish, cheeses, perfectly cooked boiled eggs and first-class croissants (baked fresh every morning). Duly fortified, the next task was to find a suitable venue for a A roomy Deluxe Double Cabin on Sea Cloud II morning read. We opted for cushioned chaises on a side and a seemingly endless supply of hot water. (Tubs are deck out of the direct sun, secure in the knowledge that found only in suites.) one of the superb stewards — who had learned our names The interior design of the ship’s public areas is and preferences instantaneously — would track us down similar, with wood accents, polished brass fittings and with cups of cappuccino. Lunch was served outdoors, and contemporary art creating an atmosphere of sophistication the food was ample and varied. The chef had prepared and understated luxury. The handsome lounge — used salmon with avocado in a crisp puff pastry case that kept by day for lectures — has a beautiful coffered ceiling, a the fish deliciously moist and tender. small bar, ample seating areas with bucket chairs around Each day, announcements for shore visits would rouse café tables, and a grand piano. The dining room provides us from reading, daydreaming or spa treatments. While a contrast, with green carpeting, buttercream walls and it was hard to relinquish the gentle pleasures of onboard tables draped with white linens and set with silver, crystal life, I had chosen this particular itinerary because it and fresh flowers. included some of the less visited islands in the Aegean. On our first evening, the weather was glorious, so For example, Patmos, east of well-known and crowded we headed to an area of the Lido Deck at the stern of Mykonos, is where St. John the Divine wrote the Book of the ship with a covered bar and a sweep of deck chairs. Revelation and is noted both for a monastery dedicated There, we stood at the rail with a glass of Champagne, to the saint and for the surrounding Hora, a pristine

2 Hideaway Report | September 2012 medieval town of winding streets and whitewashed proved well-founded. True, it is a comparatively small shops and houses. ship lacking the large stabilizers found on modern cruise Landing at Skala, we took a cab to the monastery — liners, and you are aware of the ship’s motion, especially which dates to the late 11th century — and spent a quiet when under sail. But at no time — and we were in some hour wandering through the cool interior and admiring turbulent seas at one point — did the movement seem its ancient mosaics. Later, our taxi driver wanted to disagreeable. The interior is appointed with strategically show us his native island, so we allowed him to drive placed handrails throughout, which provide security in us through a hilly landscape populated by sure-footed the event of bad weather. None of the passengers became sheep and goats and scented by wild herbs. Back in the seasick — although I did meet a couple wearing medicated patches — and there is a doctor on board to treat anyone who might feel discomfort. Overall, I struggle to find The three masts carry 23 sails, fault with any aspect of our experience. Sea Cloud II comprising 32,000 square feet of provided a week of unmixed pleasure. I am now keenly anticipating a voyage on the original Sea Cloud, in order canvas and managed by 13 miles of to make a comparison. rope, steel wire and plastic cable. Sea Cloud II cruises the western Mediterranean, plus Madeira and the Canary Islands, in fall 2012 before returning to the tidy port, we chose a small café and sat in the shade of Caribbean in December. Both Sea Cloud and Sea Cloud II an awning with glasses of coffee frappé. have programs in the Caribbean and Central America in the Another highlight of the cruise was the port of winter of 2012-13. Sea Cloud II returns to the Mediterranean in early May 2013. Rates per person are from $2,806 for Ermoupolis on the island of Syros. The administrative ROMANIA center of the Cyclades, Ermoupolis is not the dramatic five days to $6,134 for 12 days. Arrangements are best made tumble of white sugar cubes that typifies the region’s through a travel agent, as communication with Sea Cloud architecture. But this does not mean it is unappealing. Cruises in Hamburg can be time-consuming. The Andrew On the contrary, the first sight of the town onMONTEN enteringEGRO Harper Travel Office will be more than happy to assist you, the harbor is exquisite, the geometric patterns of its Tel. (800) 375-4685. seacloud.com buildings ascending a hillside and culminating in the

blue dome of a church. The variousMACEDONIA pastel shades are so Black Sea harmonious that the whole scheme seems to have been deliberately orchestrated. As on Patmos, we strolled the ISTANBUL pretty shaded byways of the marble-paved streets,ALB didANIA a 0 50 100 KM 0 50 100 MI Sea of little shopping — the consensus is that Syros boasts the Marmara best loukoumia (Turkish delight) — and admired the fine painted ceilings of the Greek Orthodox church, Agios Nikolaos, before settling into a waterside café for an ouzo. The dilemma of these shore visits was whether to stay SKIATHOS on shore for dinner or to return to the ship. Usually, we Aegean GREECE Sea TURKEY succumbed to the lure of the Sea Cloud II’s dining room and the opportunity it provided to exchange stories with ATHENS our congenial fellow passengers. The food was reliably PIRAEUS excellent, and a representative evening menu included a SYROS PATMOS trio of foie gras preparations, lobster with duxelles onI onian a Sea bed of polenta, and an excellent schnitzel. From the house BODRUM list, guests can choose a red or white wine; a premium MONEMVASIA SANTORINI selection is available at a supplementary charge. The RHODES service could not have been more pleasant or attentive. Sea of Crete Despite its being a traditional sailing vessel, albeit one launched just 11 years ago, my expectation that the CRETE Sea Cloud II would provide the desired levels of comfort

M editerraneanSeptember Sea2012 | Hideaway Report 3

LIBYA a refined and tranquil enclave Amanruya Opens on Turkey’s Bodrum Peninsula bodrum is the primary resort town and in local stone, the 36 pool cottages are the essence of yachting center on the Aegean coast of Turkey elegant simplicity. Spacious and high-ceilinged, they are and lies a 75-minute flight south of Istanbul. awash with light from windows and strategically placed skylights, while light stone floors and white walls amplify Thirty years ago, it was a sleepy, exquisite the generous proportions. A sitting area shares the studio little place. Then, around 1985, unregulated room with a four-poster bed, and the cast of a Broadway development arrived, and with it came the musical could comfortably disrobe in the huge dressing area. The equally expansive marble bath comes with a tourist hordes, the cheap bars and the all-night walk-in shower, double vanities and a large egg-shaped discotheques. Bodrum, it seemed, was doomed. soaking tub. French doors open onto an irresistible garden But happily, things didn’t quite turn out like that. where we spent blissful hours lounging on the pergola- shaded daybed and splashing in the blue-green private In 2005, a fine 173-room Kempinski resort — pool (which was so wonderful that we never contemplated nowadays a Harper-recommended property — opened going to the resort’s main 150-foot pool, reminiscent of overlooking nearby Barbaros Bay, and progressively the that at Amankila in Bali). strobe lights in the discos were dimmed. Soon, there was What did lure us away was the Beach Club, a seductive a discernible increase in the number of gulets (traditional enclave nestled at the sea’s edge amid old-growth pines. wooden sailing craft) floating in Bodrum’s harbor, and Wooden decks on several levels provide delightful spots yachts began to appear that are based for the winter in for sunbathing and reading, while the crystalline water is easily accessed from ladders on an adjacent dock. A small kitchen turns out crisp salads with olives and cheese, plus skewers of grilled meats, with very good Turkish wines to accompany them. Amanruya does not have a dining room as such, but a series of open terraces and enclosed pavilions clustered around the main pool. Initially, I found this a bit disconcerting — we were seated totally on our own one evening — but I came to appreciate the variety, and the service was in no way compromised. Menus combine the Turkish kitchen with Aman’s Asian heritage. The platters of Turkish mezze were especially delicious, as were the entrées of perfectly grilled local fish, simply served with

Cottage courtyard with private pool, Amanruya lemon and fresh vegetables. Other amenities include two spa suites (primarily for St. Barths. Finally, in December of last year, Amanresorts massages) and a gymnasium containing cardio equipment. opened a property, Amanruya, on the northern coast There are several water-sport options at the Beach Club, of the Bodrum Peninsula, 10 minutes’ drive from the and the resort is happy to arrange yacht charters for sails center of town. along the coastline of the Bodrum Peninsula. The name is derived from the trademark aman, For those determined to be more active, Amanruya Sanskrit for “peace,” and ruya, Turkish for “dream.” The offers a variety of escorted tours by private car. Bodrum land on which the resort has been built belonged to a may be crowded in summer, but in spring and fall, it is prominent Turkish architect. Concerned about its fate after still a delightful Mediterranean port city. A massive 15th- he died, he decided to sell it to Aman, assured that the century Crusader castle dominates the harbor, but the site would be preserved from concrete and despoliation. most lustrous period of the city’s existence occurred in Sited on the hillside amid an ancient olive grove, the classical times, when it was named Halicarnassus. Then, it property is constructed on several levels, with plazas and was the birthplace of Herodotus, the “Father of History,” walkways that echo the layout of regional villages. Clad and the site of the famous Tomb of Mausolus, one of the

4 Hideaway Report | September 2012 Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. For those interested in classical history and architecture, the surrounding region contains numerous other Greco-Roman sites such Mysterious Cappadocia as Ephesus, Didyma, Miletus, Labranda and Euromos. (If From Bodrum, we ventured into Cappadocia, a ruins are a passion, be sure to seek out the four marvelous region of central Turkey that we had not visited for many years. A remarkable area, it is best known for its surreal rock formations, which create one of the most distinctive Doors open onto an irresistible landscapes on earth. garden where we spent blissful hours Ten million years ago, huge volcanic eruptions covered central Anatolia in tons of ash and lava. Over the eons, this lounging on a daybed and splashing in was compressed to form an exceptionally soft and porous the blue-green private pool. tufa. Rain and wind gradually eroded the tufa to create tall conical towers, since dubbed “fairy chimneys.” Because the rock could so easily be carved out, early Christians and archaeological guides written by American professor hermits journeyed to Cappadocia to construct shelters George E. Bean, which minutely describe the classical and monasteries. The most striking examples of their remains of western and southern Turkey.) labors are the cave churches of Göreme — a UNESCO Each evening, as sunset approached, it became World Heritage site — that contain spectacular and well- our custom to mount the steps in the library tower to preserved Byzantine frescoes. Many of the most complex gaze out across Mandalya Bay. It was then that we fully and colorful frescoes are to be found in the so-called Dark appreciated the essence of Amanruya. A worthy addition Church, which has recently been restored. to the Amanresorts portfolio, it is a self-contained world We made our base in the town of Urgüp, at a small hotel of deep tranquility; a place to be healed and restored. 96 called SelCuklu Evi. Just off one of the town’s plazas, Pool Terrace Cottage (Garden View), $985; Pool Terrace this charming property is fashioned from five old houses Cottage (Sea View), $1,110. Tel. (90) 252-311-1212 or (800) built around a peaceful garden. Although rather small, our 477-9180. amanresorts.com appealing suite had a sitting alcove ringed with windows, a comfortable bed and a marble shower of adequate size. On our recent trip, we also spent a couple of Breezes during the day kept the room comfortable, but nights at The Marmara, a 96-room hotel atop a hill we were grateful for the air-conditioning at night. To our overlooking Bodrum and its lovely harbor. Done in a clean, surprise, the in-room Wi-Fi proved fairly reliable. contemporary style, The Marmara is built around a tranquil The hotel’s restaurant is excellent, a specialty being garden, yet is just a few minutes from the waterfront. Our pot kebabs, or meat dishes cooked in a sealed clay vessel Corner Sea Suite had a charming patio that overlooked whose top is broken off just before the meal is served. On the ocean, a small sitting area and a large elevated bed. another occasion, we dined at Ziggy Café, a short walk The bath came with a combined tub-shower and a vanity away. Despite the unlikely name, Ziggy is housed in a fine that frankly could have used a bit of an aesthetic update. stone building with an attractive interior and a terrace with Although thoroughly spoiled by Amanruya, I certainly a tent-like roof. We opted for an assortment of mezze that did not miss the chance to dunk myself in The Marmara’s included a spicy red lentil dip; tangy soft cheese infused wonderful infinity pool. The nearby hotel restaurant is with herbs; a sampling of pastirma, slices of sun-dried beef very good, and we enjoyed a number of pleasant meals coated with a paste of garlic, fenugreek seeds and salt; and börek, little pastries filled with cheese, minced meat that included splendid mezze — the spicy bean dip being and spinach. This feast was served with crisp, flavorful the best of the trip — plus entrées such as sliced beef on bread and a bottle of good local wine. pita bread with grilled calamari and rocket salad, and Overall, Selçuklu Evi is an appealing and well-located oven-baked sea bass with grilled eggplant. hotel. The owner’s relentless efforts to sign me up for a The Marmara does not compare with the lavish luxury hot air balloon trip were annoying, as was his hard sell on of either Amanruya or the Kempinski Hotel Barbaros an affiliated carpet shop. But this is a comfortable place Bay, but if you prefer to be close to the center of town to stay, even if not quite up to my normal demanding and the yacht harbor, this is the place I recommend. 90 standards. f Romantic Suite, $205; Sultan Suite, $430. Sea View Room, $355; Corner Sea Suite, $420. Yokusbasi Yunak Mahallesi P.K. 55, Urgüp. Tel. (90) 384-341-7460. Mahallesi, Suluhasan Cad. No. 18, Bodrum, Mu˘gla. Tel. (90) selcukluevi.com 252-999-1010. themarmarahotels.com

September 2012 | Hideaway Report 5 Sincere Hospitality at The Rittenhouse Hotel Philadelphia: Visiting the New Barnes Foundation although it is one of the on the wall, Barnes grouped seemingly disparate works country’s most historic cities, together, revealing similarities in line, color, space or Philadelphia tends to be light. The daubs of paint on an 18th-century earthenware pot reflect the brushstrokes in the Matisse and Cézanne overshadowed by the nearby paintings nearby, for example. In the first gallery, Renoir’s skyscrapers of Manhattan glorious “The Artist’s Family” is flanked by velvety and the monuments of Giorgione and Tintoretto paintings of similar hues. African Washington, D.C. Nor has its masks connect to Modigliani portraits as well as to Old Master Crucifixion scenes. Throughout, symmetrical reputation been enhanced by arrangements of decorative objects inform the Seurats, Hollywood, which generally portrays Philadelphia Gauguins, van Goghs and Picassos. The excellent audio as gritty (as in “Rocky”) or grim (as in “The guide helps to clarify the connections. Sixth Sense”). This isn’t fair to the charming and Outside the galleries, the museum proved to be less successful, starting with the dour “Barnes Totem” pedestrian-friendly Philadelphia of today. sculpture at the entrance — a poor herald of the vibrant art within. The process to secure an audio guide was In recent decades, successful revitalization programs unnecessarily complicated. Banal but important parts of have given new life to historic neighborhoods. A renovated the museum, such as the coat check and the restrooms, Independence National Historical Park anchors the lacked adequate signage and were difficult to find. And colorful Old City, a mix of upscale galleries, quirky anyone who knows anything about Barnes couldn’t fail boutiques and warehouse holdouts reminiscent of SoHo 25 years ago. Independence Hall itself remains as moving as ever. Even though I had visited before, I couldn’t The famous curmudgeon help but feel a shiver of emotion as I stood in the very room where the Declaration of Independence and the Dr. Albert C. Barnes assembled an Constitution were signed. astounding array of Impressionist and Our return visit had been inspired by the newly early Modern masterpieces. opened Barnes Foundation, crowning the museum- lined Benjamin Franklin Parkway. In 1912, the famous curmudgeon Dr. Albert C. Barnes started to assemble an to note the irony of the airy main lobby-lounge named astounding array of Impressionist, post-Impressionist and for Walter and Leonore Annenberg, people he detested. early Modern masterpieces. After a public exhibition of Indeed, the roster of donors inscribed on the building’s these works was roundly derided, Barnes retreated to his Negev stone reads like Barnes’ list of enemies. suburban home and gallery, tightly restricting access to Nevertheless, the brilliance of the collection outshines his collection even after its vast worth was universally these minor irritations, and The Barnes Foundation alone acknowledged. Barnes made it clear in his will that the makes a trip to Philadelphia worthwhile. Before going, I collection should stay in his Merion home in perpetuity, recommend viewing “The Art of the Steal,” a fascinating but amid a storm of controversy, Philadelphia politicians documentary detailing the history of the foundation and working with local charitable institutions managed to the controversy surrounding its move into the city. Reserve break the will and transfer the collection to the city. tickets in advance at barnesfoundation.org. Matisse called The Barnes Foundation “the only sane place to see art in America,” and so it continues to Although the Four Seasons is right across the parkway be, with timed tickets keeping crowds at bay. The new from The Barnes Foundation, I wanted to check up on space is faithful to the layout of the original galleries, The Rittenhouse, a 98-room hotel on leafy Rittenhouse ensuring that Barnes’ ensembles could be precisely Square. After receiving a number of complaints about the recreated. These “ensembles” are what make the museum property a few years ago, I removed it from the Harper unique. Not content to hang his masterpieces in a row Collection. But its location near much of Philadelphia’s

6 Hideaway Report | September 2012 best shopping and dining remains unparalleled, and I hoped to be pleasantly surprised. Our stay was not problem-free, but certainly that was A Lively Restaurant Scene no fault of the congenial and efficient staff. After a quick Philadelphia has more notoriety for a certain check-in, we had an enjoyable chat with the bellman sandwich than fame for fine dining, but in fact, its who escorted us to our room. Whenever we saw him restaurants exhibit impressive creativity and thereafter, he would greet us by name, as did the doorman sophistication. In the past, we’ve enjoyed marvelous meals at the likes of Vetri and Amada, and our recent stay and the fine concierge, Frank Marandino. He provided included a veritable parade of delicious cuisine. well-considered advice about sightseeing, dining and logistics, and speedily confirmed a number of restaurant Le Bec Fin — Reopened in June with French Laundry reservations for us. Housekeeping maintained our room alumnus Walter Abrams in the kitchen, Philadelphia’s beautifully, and a room service breakfast came hot, most palatial restaurant offers an unapologetically formal precisely on time (to the minute) and exactly as ordered. dining experience almost extinct elsewhere. Jackets are The entire staff seemed eager to help and determined to required. A delicious five-course lunch tasting menu ensure that we wanted for nothing. included Hudson Valley foie gras with a rich onion brioche, The main public spaces also impressed. Area rugs, pickled pearl onions and tart currants; and delicate halibut oversize porcelain vases, floral arrangements and a grand with crunchy olive crumbs and delectable summer squash. piano decorated a bright lobby-lounge further enhanced by Only the vol-au-vent’s surprisingly tough pastry shell marble floors, richly upholstered furniture and evocative was a disappointment. Tel. (215) 567-1000. lebecfin.com landscape paintings. A few steps down, afternoon tea is Talula’s Garden — After garnering acclaim for tiny served in the conservatory-like Mary Cassatt Tea Room and Talula’s Table, chef Aimee Olexy opened this much larger adjacent vine-draped courtyard. A ground-level outpost farm-to-table restaurant on Washington Square in late of Smith & Wollensky caters to carnivorous businessmen, 2011. Early reviews complained of fussy presentations, and upstairs, the elongated floor plan of gourmet Lacroix but we found no fault with the tender sweetbreads guarantees that almost all tables overlook the treetops of accompanied by sweet corn, savory tomato jam and Rittenhouse Square (see sidebar). pickled peppers, nor with the Berkshire pork chop topped Guest rooms occupy only the first 10 floors of the with al dente runner beans and charred ripe peaches. tower, but the views of the square are still memorable. The mouthwatering cheese menu proved impossible to Our resolutely traditional Superior Room had expansive resist. Tel. (215) 592-7787. talulasgarden.com ninth-floor views from both the sleeping area and the Lacroix — The Rittenhouse’s gourmet restaurant has separate nook with a work desk. The spacious layout run through a number of chefs in recent years, but now allowed for two comfortable armchairs, a granite-topped that Jon Cichon has settled in, it has regained its footing. credenza with a large flat-screen television, a decadently The nine-course tasting menu ranged from the amusing comfortable king-size bed, a well-lit dressing counter (a disk of tuna topped with an identically colored disk of and an ample closet. The taupe-marble bath felt snug, watermelon and haricots verts) to the decadent (seared however, with a single vanity and a walk-in shower, but foie gras with strawberries, hearts of palm, dulce de no tub. A watercolor of the city’s skyline and a vintage leche and aged sherry vinegar) to the sublime (exquisite map brought touches of Philadelphia to the room, as did wagyu beef with sumptuous lobster raviolis, chanterelle a large black-and-white photo of a bronze standing in mushrooms and a baby turnip). Tel. (215) 546-9000. Rittenhouse Square. lacroixrestaurant.com Regrettably, our room did show a few signs of wear, Morimoto — “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto’s first such as scuffed walls and an aged tile floor in the shower. American restaurant continues to serve top-quality The hotel’s fitness center is also in dire need of updating, Japanese cuisine in a brightly surreal space with with its scruffy wood lockers, dowdy swimming pool and futuristic table lamps and color-changing booths. A light co-ed sauna set at a chilly 106 degrees. But after enduring but richly flavored whitefish carpaccio paired perfectly the aloof staff of many a gleaming hotel, I’ll take the with a glass of Morimoto’s dry and fruity daiginjo sake, genuine warmth and friendliness of The Rittenhouse and a bowl of pork belly ramen in pork broth made for a any day, nicks and all. 90 Superior Room, $450; Superior comforting and substantial lunch. Tel. (215) 413-9070. One-Bedroom Suite, $700. 210 W. Rittenhouse Square. morimotorestaurant.com Tel. (215) 546-9000. rittenhousehotel.com

September 2012 | Hideaway Report 7 I A L E D I T E C I O N S P 2012 Readers’ Top 20 Hideaways Choice } Your favorite hotels and resorts with 75 or fewer rooms Reader Survey each year, I ask you to tell READERUnitedS’ CHOIC StateE s International me about your recent travels. 2009Post Ranch Inn Villa Feltrinelli I am delighted to report that Andrew Big Sur, California Gargnano, 1 1 Harper members still vacation an Blackberry Farm il pellicano

Walland, Tennessee Porto Ercole, Italy average of 35 days annually, with 12 2 2 percent saying that they travel more Twin Farms Le Sirenuse

Woodstock, Vermont Positano, Italy than 65 days a year. 3 3 I also asked for advice about San Ysidro Ranch The Wickaninnish Inn

Montecito, California Tofino, British Columbia, Canada how I could be of greater assistance 4 4 Triple Creek Ranch hotel splendido in 2013. What regions would you

Darby, Montana Portofino, Italy like to see covered? And on what 5 5 amangiri blanket bay places do I already bestow too much

Canyon Point, Utah Otago, South Island, New Zealand attention? l take these answers very 6 6 seriously and always bear them in The Inn at Little Washington Il San Pietro di positano 7 Washington, Virginia 7 Positano, Italy mind when planning my upcoming blantyre palazzo sasso travel schedule.

Lenox, Massachusetts Ravello, Italy 8 8 However, the replies can be The inn at Palmetto Bluff Ca’ sagredo disconcertingly contradictory. The

Bluffton, South Carolina Venice, Italy 9 9 number of correspondents urging Little Palm Island La Casa Que Canta me to “concentrate on the United The Keys, Florida Zihuatanejo, Mexico 10 10 States” is almost exactly balanced ventana inn The Farm at Cape Kidnappers by those who request “more exotic” Big Sur, California Hawke’s Bay, North Island, New Zealand 11 11 destinations, because “that’s why I the white barn inn grand-hotel du cap-ferrat subscribe to the Hideaway Report.” Kennebunk Beach, Maine Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 12 12 One reader insisted that there poetry inn Hotel d’aubusson was “far too much , 13 Napa, California 13 Paris, France and Asia in general,” while another planters inn hotel san regis was concerned that our coverage 14 Charleston, South Carolina 14 Paris, France of “Japanese country inns” was The Point singita boulders lodge so limited. I was especially moved Saranac Lake, New York Sabi Sand Game Reserve, 15 15 by the plight of one woman unable The Lowell the lodge at kauri cliffs

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Washington, Connecticut Hampshire, 20 20 about “multi-generational travel, Find more of your favorites at AndrewHarper.com or in the digital edition of Hideaway Report, especially with grandchildren.” including Top 20 Beach, Spa, Food & Wine, Golf and Family Resorts, plus Top 20 City Hotels. Duly noted. Rates provided are published nightly room rates and are subject to change. I greatly appreciate your taking For best available rates and personalized trip-planning assistance, the time to fill out this survey. Thank call the Andrew Harper Travel Office at (800) 375-4685. you. And it will be my privilege to The Hideaway Report® is a privately published newsletter for the sophisticated traveler, 85% of our executive members holding the title of CEO/President/Owner/Partner. Issued monthly since June 1979. ISSN 0884-7622. For information, bring you further reports from visit AndrewHarper.com or contact the Andrew Harper Membership Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768 USA. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2012 Andrew Harper LLC. All rights reserved. around the globe in the coming year. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. — Andrew Harper Editor-in-Chief | Andrew Harper Art Director | Kristina Mitchell Illustrator | Melissa Colson

8 Hideaway Report | September 2012