1 The Best of

Cliché-sounding statement number one: Philadelphia is a lovely city. I live here, in a tiny fifth-floor walk-up studio on 8th Street, between Pine and Lombard. When I look out my back window, I can see the steeple of the old Pine Street church George Washington attended. Beyond the steeple are shiny-windowed high-rise apart- ments. Beyond them are blipping lights of planes coasting over the Delaware River into Philadelphia International Airport. The view from the front of my apartment is of 19th- century rooftops, rising skyscrapers—and a single roof deck with a pair of sunbathing poodles. The nation’s oldest hospital is a half a block from my home: I pass it every time I head out to shop in Old City, or to work in my office near Rittenhouse Square. Both are about a 15-minute walk, provided I don’t stop in any of the dozen or so amazing little cafes along the way. About once a week, folks passing my apartment ask for directions to Pat’s and Geno’s, South Philly’s famous cheesesteak stands. These tiny details of my daily life make me hometown proud (cliché number two). To me, a reformed suburbanite, Philadelphia is the perfect American city. I love that it sur- rounds me with some of our country’s most important historic monuments. I love that its buildings are a blend of the extremely old and the supernew. I love the mistakenly planted gingko trees, the Rocky footprints at the top of the art museum steps (although I’m not sure about the statue), the fresh mozzarella cheese at Claudio’s in the Italian Market, New Year’s Day’s debauched Two Street party after the annual Mummer’s Parade (which I also love). And I love that in 20 minutes I can walk anywhere in Center City; in less than an hour I can walk across town. I haven’t always gone weak in the knees for Philly, though. My crush came about gradually. When I moved back more than 10 years ago, I thought I was stopping over on my way to New York. But something strange happened: Philadelphia kept my attention. Every time I turned around, there was another great place to eat dinner, another incred- ible art opening, another amazing boutique, bar, band, exhibit, or event. As Philadelphia blossomed, so did my feelings for it. And I’m not the only one who feels this way about Philadelphia. While other cities have seen small hardware stores and haberdasheries and independent coffee shops giving way to chains and big-box stores, here, people hung in, roasting their own coffee beans and defiantly creating their own art. The result: In 2005, National Geographic Traveler lauded Philadelphia as the “Next Great City.” The New York Times called us the “Sixth Borough.” AndCOPYRIGHTED in the past few years, we’ve racked up “BestMATERIAL City for Singles,” “Best City for New Graduates,” and other accolades. Of course, my City of Brotherly Love still has a long way to go. Not all Philadelphians live on a block as safe as mine. Beyond Center City, beyond University City and Chest- nut Hill, are pockets—giant pockets—riddled with serious poverty and unspeakable violence. Massive, 24-hour casinos are starting to set up their depressing, addictive trade around town. For better and for worse, Philadelphia is a living snapshot of life in urban America. Enjoy it, and enjoy its diversity. Take the family to ogle the spectacular art at the Barnes one day—and cheer on 2008 World Series Champs, the Fightin’ Phils, the next. Explore 5 the leafy paths of Fairmount Park in the morning—and mingle with Old City’s high- heeled crowds after the sun sets. If I had to choose one inspiring must do for visitors, I’d recommend a Mural Arts Tour (& 215/685-0754; www.muralarts.org). (See the box, “Mural, Mural, on the Wall,” in chapter 7.) Mural Arts guides take you into Philly’s other neighborhoods, the ones that don’t appear in guidebooks. You’ll cruise by smooth walls blanketed in brilliant colors. You’ll learn how beautifying communities, working with one paintbrush, one child at a time, can bring about positive transformation. The experience is moving, restorative, and THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA educational. It reteaches you the classic lesson of the city, and America itself: One small step, one giant leap. Right here, on earth, in Philadelphia: a generally lovely place to be.

1 FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES

• Visiting the Barnes Foundation: The Museum of Art in spring, warm-weather Barnes Foundation Gallery in the quiet visits to the serene Shofuso Japanese nearby western suburb of Merion teahouse, and autumn-through-winter houses the most important private col- strolls along the Wissahickon Creek. lection of Impressionist and early See p. 146. 1 French modern paintings in the world, • Gallery Hopping on First Friday: On displaying more Cézannes than all the the first Friday of every month, the gal- FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES museums of put together. The leries, stores, and studios of Old City— building was designed by Paul Philippe just north and slightly east of Cret, and is amazing, not only for its Independence National Historical lovely design, but also because founder Park—remain open with refreshments Albert Barnes was meticulous about and artists on hand until 9pm. Wander displaying the works, often juxtaposing along the cobblestone streets, popping them with objets d’art such as antique in where you fancy, kicking off a night iron locks or African tribal masks. The out in this very happening part of town. museum plans to move to a brand-new See p. 171. home in Center City (along the Ben • Stepping Back in Time in Historic Franklin Parkway btw. the Rodin Philadelphia: The reclamation of this Museum and the Philadelphia Museum country’s Colonial capital has been of Art) in 2012, so schedule your visit nearly miraculous, from the Liberty to the current location now: You may Bell’s gleaming glass–modern home to not get another chance to see these the renovation of hundreds of row works as their collector originally houses with their distinctive brickwork arranged them. See p. 126. and 18th-century formal gardens (and • Wandering Through Fairmount Park: welcoming benches). But the costumed It would take dozens of outings to fully town criers with free maps and the explore the 100 miles of trails in this Revolutionary War–era street theater 8,900-acre giant of an urban park— really bring the experience to life. Just some of them are virtually unchanged wander; they’ll find you. See “Indepen- since Revolutionary times. We’ll settle dence National Historical Park: Ameri- for gazing at the hundreds of flame aza- ca’s Most Historic Square Mile,” in leas that bloom behind the Philadelphia chapter 7. 6 • Eating the Sandwich: We all love • Exploring the Philadelphia Museum American history, international art, a of Art: It has a stupendous collection of great orchestral performance, and a masterpieces, period rooms, and crafts, swanky night on the town. But the and is becoming one of the hottest craving for Philly’s number-one fast museums in the country for special food somehow surpasses all other exhibitions. Look for more blockbust- desires. It’s primal, an overwhelming ers like the recent exhibits of Renoir urge that materializes the moment you (landscapes), Frida Kahlo (retrospec- enter city limits. The inimitable chees- tive), Henri Matisse (along with other esteak: one word (not two), “wid” or modern artists who worked on the “widout” (onions), available with sharp French Riviera), and Cézanne (and provolone or gooey Cheez Whiz. See beyond). Wednesday and Friday eve- “The Ultimate Cheesesteak Taste Test,” nings have become convivial social p. 114. scenes, with cocktails and live music. • Strolling Around Rittenhouse Square See p. 128. at Night: When the rest of Philadel- • Cheering the Regattas Along the phia’s city squares grow quiet at night, Schuylkill: On any spring weekend, the one between 18th and 19th, Walnut stand along Boathouse Row just north and Locust streets twinkles with activ- of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE ity. Patrons toast each other at bistro get ready to cheer. Crews race each 1 sidewalk tables. Couples cross the park, other every 5 minutes or so, with hand in hand. On a summer night, friends lining the riverbanks rooting for you’re likely to come upon a free musi- them. See p. 157. cal performance. In winter, you’ll be • Getting Lost in the Reading Terminal dazzled by the park’s bright balls of Market: You’ll never go completely lights in the treetops. missing, but you will definitely get • Enjoying the Lights at Night: The caught up in the maze of stalls at this William Penn statue atop City Hall, the historic market. And when you stumble Ben Franklin Bridge, and seven upon an Amish eatery, artisan bakery, Schuylkill River bridges are perma- local farm stand, artisan cheesemonger nently lighted, joining the beautiful or Italian bakery, suddenly finding your white pin lights that outline the boat- way out doesn’t seem so essential after houses along the Schuylkill River. all. See p. 101. • Breathing Deeply at the Philadelphia • Exploring South Philly: In the neigh- Flower Show: In early March, the borhood South of South Street (gener- Philadelphia Flower Show—the largest ally btw. Front and Broad sts.), exuberant and most prestigious indoor exhibition attitude punctuates every interchange of its kind in the world—descends on you’ll have, whether strolling (with the Pennsylvania Convention Center, ample tastings) through the Italian Mar- with acres of orchids and traditional ket or seeking out the area’s great pasta, and exotic displays. See p. 33. cannoli, or famed cheesesteaks farther FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES PHILADELPHIA FAVORITE FROMMER’S

Fun Facts A Central City

1 Thirty-eight percent of the nation’s population lives within a 4 /2-hour drive of Philadelphia. south. See p. 62 for a description of the Jimmy Rollins or Chase Utley or Shane 7 neighborhood and p. 104 for info on Victorino—or any of the “Fightins”— where to eat. homers, watch the giant Liberty Bell • Drinking Local Beer: One hundred come to life. See p. 156. years ago, Philadelphia was known as the • Watching the Mummer’s Parade: greatest brewing city in the Western Grown men dancing in feathers, Hemisphere. Today, the city’s attempting sequins, face paint, and gold sneakers to regain that status with beer-centric mark the beloved New Year’s Day tradi- pubs like Standard Tap (p. 204), McGil- tion of the Mummer’s Parade (www. THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA lin’s (p. 204), Good Dog (p. 203), mummers.com), in which thousands Royal Tavern (p. 204), and, especially, strut their way up Broad Street. The Monk’s (p. 204) all of which feature music is loud and antiquated, but the delicious craft brews, many of them by experience is festive and fun. Bundle area brewers such as Philadelphia Brew- up. See p. 33. ing Company, Yards, Flying Fish, Dog- • Letting the Kids Go Nuts at a Museum: fishhead, Victory, and Stout’s. The 2008 relocation of the eminently • Catching a Phillies Game at the Ball- kid-centric Please Touch Museum to park: A summer night at the family- Memorial Hall (on the edge of Fair- friendly Citizens Bank Park means great mount Park) gives its pint-size guests views from every seat in this old-fash- oodles of space to perfect the art of play. ioned-style stadium, with its amazing They might be overwhelmed by the 1 local foods such as Tony Luke’s cheeses- choices here: Be sure to explore the

teaks and roast pork sandwiches, barbe- underground Alice in Wonderland maze, THE BEST HOTEL BETS cue by former player Greg “The Bull” punch the time clock at the construction Luzinski, local microbrews, and, if site, splash around in a flowing river, or you’re lucky, a Hatfield hot dog shot take a ride on the historic carousel. from the Phanatic’s on-field launcher. Grown-ups won’t want to miss the room- Sit on the third level, and you’ll be size model of the Centennial Exhibition, treated to a perfectly framed view of the the first world’s fair, which took place at city skyline. When Ryan Howard or this spot in 1876. See p. 143.

2 THE BEST HOTEL BETS

• Best Airport Hotel: Standing out from • Best Historic Hotel: It’s only the “lite” the virtually interchangeable low-rises version of what it used to be, when that surround Philadelphia Interna- Thomas Edison designed the fixtures tional is aloft, 4301 Island Ave. and the ballroom defined swank. But (& 267/298-1700). Opened in 2008, the top floor of the Park Hyatt Phila- Starwood’s off-price version of their delphia at the Bellevue, Broad and popular W brand is smart and hip, Walnut streets, or 1415 Chancellor offering 135 spare, modern rooms; a Court, between Walnut and Locust sleek lobby; a cool bar and terrace; streets (& 800/223-1234), with its along with self-serve kiosks to print out nearly clandestine fireside lounge and boarding passes. Aloft almost makes elegant, pearl-bedecked Nineteen din- flying seem cool and special again. See ing room, retains elegant traces of a p. 81. century’s worth of history. See p. 74. 8 • Best for Business Travelers: Hotel staying here a week, as many regular Sofitel, 120 S. 17th St. (& 800/SOFI- guests do. See p. 77. TEL [763-4835]), has a convenient • Best Hotel Lobby: For softly rubbing location and rooms that are large and elbows with local movers and shakers, elegant, with easy access to plugs and pro players from visiting (and some- modem jacks at a handsome desk. The times home) teams, and whoever’s in delicious French coffee doesn’t hurt town to perform at a major concert, either. The service staff is efficient and there’s no place like the cool, plush, courteous. See p. 73. lobby-side Swann Lounge in the Four • Best for Conventiongoers: A trio of Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Sq. (& 800/ proudly service-oriented Marriotts 332-3442). See p. 72. (including a Courtyard and a Residence • Best for Families: In Center City, Inn) border the now-expanding center, Loews Philadelphia Hotel, 1200 Mar- making these vast spots along Market ket St. (& 215/627-1200), doesn’t Street between 12th and Broad streets have the biggest rooms in town, but it’s (& 800/228-9290) the best bet for got a great game closet, allows pets, and those meeting attendees who prefer easy trains concierges to please even the room access and a few extra moments pickiest preteen guest. See p. 68. In of sleeping. (My favorites are the Court- West Philadelphia, the Hilton Inn at THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE yard and Residence Inn’s rooms facing Penn, 3600 Sansom St. (& 800/445- 1 City Hall.) See p. 69. 8667), is across town (about 30 blocks) • Best for a Romantic Getaway: The from historical sights, but offers the affordable Penn’s View Hotel, Front whole family space to roam among spa- and Market streets (& 800/331-7634), cious corridors, ever-present fruit to feels like an exquisite club, with views munch on, and tea to sip in a comfort- over the Delaware River, in-room whirl- able library lounge. The campus of pool tubs (in some), and, downstairs, U. Penn across the street is perfect for what the New York Times hailed as “the throwing a Frisbee or playing tag. See mother of all wine bars.” See p. 69. p. 79. • Best for a Good Night’s Sleep: The • Best Inexpensive Hotel: The Alexan-

THE BEST HOTEL BETS HOTEL BEST THE dream-worthy, five-pillow-topped der Inn, 12th and Spruce streets “Heavenly” sleepers at the Westin on (& 877/ALEX-INN [253-9466]), is an 17th Street between Chestnut and Mar- independent, 48-room outfit whose ket streets (& 800/228-3000) still have strong suits are its location, simplicity, a lock on this category. (Add in the spa- and value—usually less than $135 per like showers, and you might find it night. Rooms are quite small—or cozy, difficult to take leave of your room.) depending on your outlook. Request See p. 75. one that faces the corner. See p. 71. • Best Boutique Hotel: It’s a far cry from • Best B&B: The new-but-historic Lip- a trendy Ian Schrager creation, but Rit- pincott House, 2023–2025 Locust St. tenhouse 1715, between 17th and (& 215/523-9251), has a lot going for 18th streets on Rittenhouse Street it: location (just 1 block from Ritten- (& 877/791-6500) feels boutiquey in house Sq.), four quiet guest rooms, price a more Parisian sense. It’s located on a (rates top out at $225), innkeepers who quiet side street, with small-to-large love to dine (which means homemade traditional rooms, simple croissant-and- breakfasts plus great recommendations coffee breakfasts, and luxe Frette bed for neighborhood restaurants), Victorian linens. You could be quiet comfortable decorative appointments (a fireplace in each room; even the pool table is an see p. 95). Still, there’s no denying 9 antique), and free wireless Internet. See everyone is impressed by the culinary p. 78. cred (Eric Ripert) and seriously local • Best Service: The staff at the Ritz- French cuisine (Pennsylvania brook trout Carlton Philadelphia, 10 Avenue of in brown butter sauce, wild boar pro- the Arts (& 215/523-8000), has sciutto from the Italian Market) at the recently amped up its hospitality factor. newer 10 Arts at the Ritz-Carlton No pillow goes unfluffed. No child goes Philadelphia, 10 Avenue of the Arts without picking a toy from the red (& 215/523-8000). See p. 99. THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA wagon. No entrant has a door unheld. • Best Splurge Hotel: There’s a reason No cup of coffee gets unrefreshed at Madonna and Tom Hanks stay at the breakfast at 10 Arts. See p. 75. , 210 W. Ritten- • Best Hotel for Historic District Hop- house Sq. (& 215/546-9000). The ping: If you’re here to see Independence part-condo part–luxury hotel delivers Park, why not wake up looking at it an overwhelming dose of indulgence, through the curtains at the Omni Hotel with its massive-domed lobby, lavish at Independence Park, 4th and Chest- furnishings, posh day spa, and clubby nut streets (& 800/843-6664)? All 150 bars. Weekend rates start at $270 per guest rooms have views of the Greek night. See p. 74. Revival Second Bank of the U.S. and a • Best Hostel: Centrally located near all the half-dozen of America’s Georgian jew- historical and nightlife attractions, Apple 1 els. And the clip-clopping of horses Hostel (formerly Bank Street Hostel) 32

with carriages below maintains the his- S. Bank St. (& 800/392-4678 or THE BEST HOTEL BETS torical feel. See p. 65. 215/922-0222), is smack in the Old City/ • Best Hotel Health Club: The Sport- Society Hill nexus; it’s perfect for budget ing Club at the Bellevue, on Broad or adventurous travelers—book online Street between Walnut and Locust for cheaper rates. See p. 83. streets (& 215/985-9875), counts • Best Country Getaway: Plush lodgings Governor Rendell, Dr. J., and most of scattered throughout a picturesque the city’s movers and shakers among its hamlet, proximity to the gorgeous members. Honorary membership is Brandywine Valley’s fine attractions, given to guests of the Park Hyatt plus an on-site spa and deliciously Philadelphia at the Bellevue. The gym eclectic restaurant make the Inn at facilities are the best in town, and Montchanin Village, Route 100 and classes are top-notch. See p. 74. Kirk Road, Montchanin, DE (& 800/ • Best Hotel Pool: Splashing around the 269-2473 or 302/888-2133; www. glassed-in pool of the Hyatt Regency montchanin.com), an incomparable Philadelphia at Penn’s Landing, 201 weekend retreat. See p. 227. S. Columbus Blvd. (& 215/928-1234), • Best Place to Pop the Question: At the is doubly fun, because just beyond the plush and romantic Inn at Bowman’s pool is the Delaware River. See p. 65. Hill, 58 Lurgan Rd., New Hope (& 215/ • Best Hotel Restaurants: Locals show 862-8090; www.theinnatbowmanshill. great loyalty to the kitchens, style, ser- com), the elegant orchid conservatory is a vice, and menus at the Fountain Res- popular setting for proposals. Let the taurant in the Four Seasons, 1 Logan friendly hosts know if you any need spe- Sq. (& 215/963-1500; see p. 95), and cial arrangements for the occasion, from Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel, 210 chilling champagne to lighting extra W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/546-9000; candles. See p. 219. 10 3 THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS

• Best Overall: In a city bursting with reputation. Perrier’s dessert cart alone is great Italian bistros, jewel-box Vetri, worth getting dressed up for. See p. 95. 1312 Spruce St. (& 215/732-3478), • Best for a Laid-Back Party: No dress has long stood out for its timeless code—no reservations, even—at the approach and sophisticated but cozy vast, casual, beer-centric Standard Tap setting. Get the spinach gnocchi with in Northern Liberties at Second and ricotta and brown butter, the prosciutto Poplar streets (& 215/238-0630) make and mushroom-stuffed guinea hen it a great spot to get together for chicken breast, the chocolate polenta soufflé— potpie, double burgers, and relaxed but or, if it’s Saturday, whatever Chef Marc festive atmosphere. See p. 111. Vetri has whipped up for his tasting • Best Decor: Karim Rashid’s spaceship- menu. See p. 96. like design of Morimoto at 723 Chest- • Best for Couples: Tucked into bustling nut St. (& 215/413-9070), will take Old City is gently artful, effortlessly your breath away. So will the modern elegant, surprisingly serene Fork, 306 Japanese fusion, including absolutely Market St. (& 215/625-9425), a nou- divine sushi that’s downright sculptural. THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE veau-American bistro with a just-gour- See p. 84. 1 met-enough menu that’s a far-and-away • Best View: Year-round, the Park Hyatt favorite for stylish, delicious celebra- at the Bellevue’s rooftop-level Nineteen tions for two. See p. 88. (& 215/790-1919) serves up three • Best Power Lunch: In a city swollen refined meals and sweeping views of the with steakhouses, one new one is get- city skyline from classically arched win- ting all the noontime players. Butcher dows. See p. 97. & Singer, formerly Striped Bass, 1500 • Best Wine List: The two locations of Walnut St. (& 215/732-4444), is Tria, at 18th and Sansom streets and superclubby without being dim, and 12th and Spruce streets (& 215/972- elegant without being fussy. The menu’s TRIA [8742] or 629-9200) have become prices seem built for bloated expense the most popular wine bars in town, accounts—but it’s worth it, if you want thanks to their easy-to-navigate selection

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS RESTAURANT BEST THE to close that deal before the cheesecake of boutique vintages, which seamlessly comes. See p. 95. combine with a menu of gourmet snacks • Best Casual Lunch: On noon Monday and, for brewphiles truly interesting through Friday, a vibrant bunch of microbrews. See p. 208. office workers lines up outside funky • Best Value, Lunch: A mere $15 buys a Devil’s Alley at 19th and Chestnut delicious two-course “Bilbao Express” (& 215/751-0707) for barbecue slid- lunch of savory Spanish soup or salad, ers, salmon burgers, mac and cheese along with a rich bocadillos, sandwiches and, if necessary, a midday pint of beer. made of tuna and crème fraîche or Ser- See p. 93. rano ham and mustard, at trendy Tinto, • Best for a Fancy Meal: Properly lavish, 20th Street, between Chestnut and opulently mannerly, with classic French Sansom streets (& 215/665-9150). See fare, atmosphere, service, and multiple p. 99. utensils, Chef Georges Perrier’s Le Bec- • Best Value, Dinner: No wonder little, Fin, 1523 Walnut St. (& 215/567- cash-only, Italian, BYOB La Viola, 1000), has a four-star international 16th Street, between Spruce and Locust streets (& 215/735-8630) needed to with everything they touch: hot pots, 11 annex a second dining room across the noodle soups, salt-baked seafood, and street: Straightforward entrees here top more. See p. 111. out around $15. (And $12 buys one of • Best French Cuisine: Little Bistrot La the city’s best plates of homemade Minette, at 623 S. 6th St. (& 215/925- gnocchi.) See p. 102. 8000), is a spot-on rendition of a classy • Best for Kids: Just a block from the Parisian bistro, from its homemade Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, pâtés and duck à l’orange to its pale yel- hip, booth-filled, reservations-not- low walls and gleaming cafe windows. THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA required Jones at 7th and Chestnut See p. 85. (& 215/223-5663) prides itself on its • Best Steakhouse: With a half-dozen informal decor, family-friendly service, great choices, including the Capital and fresh, crowd-pleasing comfort food, Grille, the Palm, Butcher & Singer, and including beef brisket, burgers, Morton’s, the top choice is the Prime chicken parm, big salads, french fries, Rib, 1701 Locust St. (& 215/772- and nachos. See p. 94. 1701), offering tender porterhouse • Best Sushi: Old City’s itty-bitty BYOB served with fresh shredded horseradish. Zento, 138 Chestnut St. (& 215/925- The ambience is a timeless 1940s-style 9998), gets points for its perfect rendi- place—jazz combos and formally clad tions of familiar to exotic rolls and waiters included. See p. 98. sashimi. My favorite is the square-shaped • Best Burgers & Beer: Discerning Phil- 1 signature roll, made with eel, avocado, adelphia Inquirer restaurant critic Craig

plum paste, and tuna. See p. 92. La Ban wrote a song about the blue THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS • Best BYOB: Bring-your-own-bottle cheese–stuffed burger at Good Dog restaurants abound. My favorite is Bis- Bar and Restaurant, 224 S. 15th St. tro 7, at 7 N. 3rd St. (& 215/931- (& 215/985-9600), a youthful, bois- 1560), which combines all-American terous Center City gastropub. There’s a ingredients from local farmers and clas- trick to it, though: You have to order it sically French techniques for approach- medium or rarer; otherwise, the cheese able seafood cassoulet, short ribs over bakes out. See p. 203. risotto, and amazing pot de crème and • Best Pizza: Marra’s, 1734 E. Passyunk rice pudding. See p. 108. Ave., between Morris and Moore streets • Best Casual Italian: America’s oldest (& 215/463-9249), in South Philadel- Italian restaurant deserves its devoted phia, has pies with thin crusts and deli- following. At the northern edge of cious, spicy toppings, baked in brick 9th Street’s Italian Market, Ralph’s ovens; enjoy them in old wooden (& 215/627-6011) does basic but sub- booths. Ask for the margherita with lime renditions of spaghetti with mari- fresh mozzarella and basil. See p. 105. nara (old-timers call it “gravy”), garlicky • Best Cheesesteak: Late-night crowds broccoli rabe, and eggplant parmigiana. line up for a cheesesteak fix at famed See p. 105. rivals Pat’s and Geno’s in South Philly— • Best Chinese Cuisine: Nestled in but our cheesesteak critic gives the bright and busy Chinatown, straight- crown to Cosmi’s Deli just a few blocks forward and note-perfect BYOB Lee southeast. Get there early; this family- How Fook, 219 N. 11th St. (& 215/ owned business closes at 9pm (7pm on 925-7266), provides a simple, hand- Sundays). See “The Ultimate Cheeses- some space, and does a beautiful job teak Taste Test” on p. 114. 12 • Best Hoagies: Using seeded Italian breakfast menu. The White Dog Café, bread made a couple doors down, Sar- 3420 Sansom St. (& 215/386-9224), cone’s Deli, 9th and Fitzwater streets in West Philadelphia, swings both ways, (& 215/922-1717), comes up with the serving everything from simple break- best Italian sandwiches in the city. (A fast dishes to elaborate late-morning bold statement, I know.) Choose from feasts in a completely comfortable, classic cold cuts, undressed tuna, and unpretentious setting. See p. 108. specialty sandwiches that combine • Best People-Watching: Jockeying for roasted red peppers, sharp provolone, primo sidewalk tables and coveted bar long hots, and whole cloves of garlic. stools at Rittenhouse Square newcomer • Best Desserts: Cupcakes and beyond Parc (& 215/545-2262) has become star on the sweet menus at a pair of Center City’s preferred see-and-be-seen cafes: At the always-packed Naked blood sport. This big, bold brasserie is Chocolate, 1317 Walnut St. at Juniper the place to ogle Philly’s power set while St. (& 215/735-7310), don’t miss the nibbling a midday omelet or tucking petite, thick cocoa served in an espresso into a steak frites. See p. 98. cup and a strawberry cupcake. At either • Best for Pretheater Dinner: Ernesto’s location of Brown Betty, 1030 N. 2nd 1521 Café, 1521 Spruce St. (& 215/ St. (& 215/629-0999), and (for cup- 546-1521), is an affordable, modern THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE cakes only) 269 S. 20th St. (& 215/ Italian trattoria with handmade pasta— 1 545-0444), indulge in red velvet, car- and a thorough understanding of how rot, or pineapple pound cupcakes. to feed you in time for you to see the • Best Breakfasts: At Sam’s Morning curtain go up. See p. 102. Glory Diner, 10th and Fitzwater streets • Best Outdoor Dining: Hidden behind (& 215/413-3999), the coffee comes in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the big, steely mugs; doughy biscuits are cut Water Works Restaurant and Lounge, square; and the “glory” pancakes are the just off Kelly Drive (& 215/236-9000), best you’ll eat, anywhere, ever. But if you offers lovely tables by the river, the per- want to do a comparison, oodles of fect spot to watch the sun set as the Philadelphians swear by and line up for lights on Boathouse Row come up. See seriously big breakfasts at both locations p. 100. of Sabrina’s, 910 Christian (& 215/574- • Best Late-Night Dining: Follow the &

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS RESTAURANT BEST THE 1599), and 1802 Callowhill ( 215/ postbar crowd to Pat’s and Geno’s, the 636-9061). See p. 106. dueling cheesesteak vendors of South • Best Coffee: Food & Wine and I agree: Philly, and you’ll experience a culinary The best cafe in the States is La phenomenon: A greasy steak sandwich Colombe, 130 S. 19th St. (& 215/563- tastes much, much better at 3am. See 0860), where the beans are proprietary, p. 115. the clientele is quirkily glamorous, and • Best Ice Cream: Although Franklin a cup of the most delicious house blend Fountain, 116 Market St. (& 215/627- comes in one size for $1.50. The Man- 1899), is a relatively new addition to ayunk neighborhood has a just-as-good, Old City, it feels as though it’s been less-sceney La Colombe at 4360 Main here for about 50 years. Come here for St. (& 215/483-4580). sloppy sundaes, egg creams, ice-cream • Best Brunch: Nearly every restaurant sodas, and other back-in-the-day treats. offers Sunday brunch, ranging from See p. 103. standard bagels with spreads to a full • Best Gelato: Now with two locations • Best Locavore Cuisine: “Farm-to-table” 13 (and another rumored to be on the is a short trip at Lancaster’s John J. way), divine Capogiro, in Midtown Jeffries, 300 Harrisburg Ave. (& 717/ Village at 119 S. 13th St. (& 215/351- 431-3307). Chefs and co-owners Sean 0900), and in Rittenhouse at 117 S. Cavanaugh and Michael Carson show- 20th St. (& 215/636-9250), serves up case their devotion to sustainable agri- the best gelato and sorbetto this side of culture throughout their superb seasonal Firenze. My favorites are the out-there New American menus. Fresh produce is flavors—tahini, grapefruit and Cam- local and organic, and all meats are THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA pari, strawberry basil, heirloom apple— raised on nearby farms in confinement- but cioccolato, hazelnut, or even extra free green pastures. See p. 252. plain fior di latte (milk) can’t be beat.

1 THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS