1 the Best of Philadelphia

1 The Best of Philadelphia Cliché-sounding statement number one: Philadelphia is a lovely city. I live here, in a tiny fifth-floor walk-up studio on 8th Street, between Pine and Lombard. When I look out my back window, I can see the steeple of the old Pine Street church George Washington attended. Beyond the steeple are shiny-windowed high-rise apart- ments. Beyond them are blipping lights of planes coasting over the Delaware River into Philadelphia International Airport. The view from the front of my apartment is of 19th- century rooftops, rising skyscrapers—and a single roof deck with a pair of sunbathing poodles. The nation’s oldest hospital is a half a block from my home: I pass it every time I head out to shop in Old City, or to work in my office near Rittenhouse Square. Both are about a 15-minute walk, provided I don’t stop in any of the dozen or so amazing little cafes along the way. About once a week, folks passing my apartment ask for directions to Pat’s and Geno’s, South Philly’s famous cheesesteak stands. These tiny details of my daily life make me hometown proud (cliché number two). To me, a reformed suburbanite, Philadelphia is the perfect American city. I love that it sur- rounds me with some of our country’s most important historic monuments. I love that its buildings are a blend of the extremely old and the supernew. I love the mistakenly planted gingko trees, the Rocky footprints at the top of the art museum steps (although I’m not sure about the statue), the fresh mozzarella cheese at Claudio’s in the Italian Market, New Year’s Day’s debauched Two Street party after the annual Mummer’s Parade (which I also love). And I love that in 20 minutes I can walk anywhere in Center City; in less than an hour I can walk across town. I haven’t always gone weak in the knees for Philly, though. My crush came about gradually. When I moved back more than 10 years ago, I thought I was stopping over on my way to New York. But something strange happened: Philadelphia kept my attention. Every time I turned around, there was another great place to eat dinner, another incred- ible art opening, another amazing boutique, bar, band, exhibit, or event. As Philadelphia blossomed, so did my feelings for it. And I’m not the only one who feels this way about Philadelphia. While other cities have seen small hardware stores and haberdasheries and independent coffee shops giving way to chains and big-box stores, here, people hung in, roasting their own coffee beans and defiantly creating their own art. The result: In 2005, National Geographic Traveler lauded Philadelphia as the “Next Great City.” The New York Times called us the “Sixth Borough.” AndCOPYRIGHTED in the past few years, we’ve racked up “BestMATERIAL City for Singles,” “Best City for New Graduates,” and other accolades. Of course, my City of Brotherly Love still has a long way to go. Not all Philadelphians live on a block as safe as mine. Beyond Center City, beyond University City and Chest- nut Hill, are pockets—giant pockets—riddled with serious poverty and unspeakable violence. Massive, 24-hour casinos are starting to set up their depressing, addictive trade around town. For better and for worse, Philadelphia is a living snapshot of life in urban America. Enjoy it, and enjoy its diversity. Take the family to ogle the spectacular art at the Barnes one day—and cheer on 2008 World Series Champs, the Fightin’ Phils, the next. Explore 5 the leafy paths of Fairmount Park in the morning—and mingle with Old City’s high- heeled crowds after the sun sets. If I had to choose one inspiring must do for visitors, I’d recommend a Mural Arts Tour (& 215/685-0754; www.muralarts.org). (See the box, “Mural, Mural, on the Wall,” in chapter 7.) Mural Arts guides take you into Philly’s other neighborhoods, the ones that don’t appear in guidebooks. You’ll cruise by smooth walls blanketed in brilliant colors. You’ll learn how beautifying communities, working with one paintbrush, one child at a time, can bring about positive transformation. The experience is moving, restorative, and THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE educational. It reteaches you the classic lesson of the city, and America itself: One small step, one giant leap. Right here, on earth, in Philadelphia: a generally lovely place to be. 1 FROMMER’S FAVORITE PHILADELPHIA EXPERIENCES • Visiting the Barnes Foundation: The Museum of Art in spring, warm-weather Barnes Foundation Gallery in the quiet visits to the serene Shofuso Japanese nearby western suburb of Merion teahouse, and autumn-through-winter houses the most important private col- strolls along the Wissahickon Creek. lection of Impressionist and early See p. 146. 1 French modern paintings in the world, • Gallery Hopping on First Friday: On displaying more Cézannes than all the the first Friday of every month, the gal- EXPERIENCES PHILADELPHIA FAVORITE FROMMER’S museums of France put together. The leries, stores, and studios of Old City— building was designed by Paul Philippe just north and slightly east of Cret, and is amazing, not only for its Independence National Historical lovely design, but also because founder Park—remain open with refreshments Albert Barnes was meticulous about and artists on hand until 9pm. Wander displaying the works, often juxtaposing along the cobblestone streets, popping them with objets d’art such as antique in where you fancy, kicking off a night iron locks or African tribal masks. The out in this very happening part of town. museum plans to move to a brand-new See p. 171. home in Center City (along the Ben • Stepping Back in Time in Historic Franklin Parkway btw. the Rodin Philadelphia: The reclamation of this Museum and the Philadelphia Museum country’s Colonial capital has been of Art) in 2012, so schedule your visit nearly miraculous, from the Liberty to the current location now: You may Bell’s gleaming glass–modern home to not get another chance to see these the renovation of hundreds of row works as their collector originally houses with their distinctive brickwork arranged them. See p. 126. and 18th-century formal gardens (and • Wandering Through Fairmount Park: welcoming benches). But the costumed It would take dozens of outings to fully town criers with free maps and the explore the 100 miles of trails in this Revolutionary War–era street theater 8,900-acre giant of an urban park— really bring the experience to life. Just some of them are virtually unchanged wander; they’ll find you. See “Indepen- since Revolutionary times. We’ll settle dence National Historical Park: Ameri- for gazing at the hundreds of flame aza- ca’s Most Historic Square Mile,” in leas that bloom behind the Philadelphia chapter 7. 6 • Eating the Sandwich: We all love • Exploring the Philadelphia Museum American history, international art, a of Art: It has a stupendous collection of great orchestral performance, and a masterpieces, period rooms, and crafts, swanky night on the town. But the and is becoming one of the hottest craving for Philly’s number-one fast museums in the country for special food somehow surpasses all other exhibitions. Look for more blockbust- desires. It’s primal, an overwhelming ers like the recent exhibits of Renoir urge that materializes the moment you (landscapes), Frida Kahlo (retrospec- enter city limits. The inimitable chees- tive), Henri Matisse (along with other esteak: one word (not two), “wid” or modern artists who worked on the “widout” (onions), available with sharp French Riviera), and Cézanne (and provolone or gooey Cheez Whiz. See beyond). Wednesday and Friday eve- “The Ultimate Cheesesteak Taste Test,” nings have become convivial social p. 114. scenes, with cocktails and live music. • Strolling Around Rittenhouse Square See p. 128. at Night: When the rest of Philadel- • Cheering the Regattas Along the phia’s city squares grow quiet at night, Schuylkill: On any spring weekend, the one between 18th and 19th, Walnut stand along Boathouse Row just north and Locust streets twinkles with activ- of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA OF BEST THE ity. Patrons toast each other at bistro get ready to cheer. Crews race each 1 sidewalk tables. Couples cross the park, other every 5 minutes or so, with hand in hand. On a summer night, friends lining the riverbanks rooting for you’re likely to come upon a free musi- them. See p. 157. cal performance. In winter, you’ll be • Getting Lost in the Reading Terminal dazzled by the park’s bright balls of Market: You’ll never go completely lights in the treetops. missing, but you will definitely get • Enjoying the Lights at Night: The caught up in the maze of stalls at this William Penn statue atop City Hall, the historic market. And when you stumble Ben Franklin Bridge, and seven upon an Amish eatery, artisan bakery, Schuylkill River bridges are perma- local farm stand, artisan cheesemonger nently lighted, joining the beautiful or Italian bakery, suddenly finding your white pin lights that outline the boat- way out doesn’t seem so essential after houses along the Schuylkill River. all. See p. 101. • Breathing Deeply at the Philadelphia • Exploring South Philly: In the neigh- Flower Show: In early March, the borhood South of South Street (gener- Philadelphia Flower Show—the largest ally btw. Front and Broad sts.), exuberant and most prestigious indoor exhibition attitude punctuates every interchange of its kind in the world—descends on you’ll have, whether strolling (with the Pennsylvania Convention Center, ample tastings) through the Italian Mar- with acres of orchids and traditional ket or seeking out the area’s great pasta, and exotic displays.

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