Vol 24 No. 1/2010 ISSN 0970 5074 IndiaVOL 24 NO. 1/2010 Perspectives

Man milking a cow, Krishna Mandapa, Mamallapuram, 7th century. This is an endearing image of a cow being milked, while she lovingly licks her calf. Such depictions bring alive the village scene made in the Krishna Mandapa cave. Photograph: Benoy K Behl.

Editor Navdeep Suri

Assistant Editor Neelu Rohra

India Perspectives is published in Arabic, Bahasa Indonesia, Bengali, English, French, German, Hindi, Italian, Pashto, Persian, Portuguese, Russian, Sinhala, Spanish, Tamil and Urdu. Views expressed in the articles are those of the contributors and not necessarily of India Perspectives. All original articles, other than reprints published in India Perspectives, may be freely reproduced with acknowledgement. Editorial contributions and letters should be addressed to the Editor, India Perspectives, 140 ‘A’ Wing, Shastri Bhawan, New Delhi-110001. Telephones: +91-11-23389471, 23388873, Fax: +91-11-23385549 E-mail: [email protected], Website: http://www.meaindia.nic.in For obtaining a copy of India Perspectives, please contact the Indian Diplomatic Mission in your country. This edition is published for the Ministry of External Affairs, New Delhi by Navdeep Suri, Joint Secretary, Public Diplomacy Division. Designed and printed by Ajanta Offset & Packagings Ltd., Delhi-110052. Bonding through Melody: Tribute Indian Music Goes Global Leela Naidu Editorial MADHUSREE CHATTERJEE 32 SMM AUSAJA 75

In this issue of India Perspectives, the fi rst one of 2010, we bring to our readers an unusual blend of articles that refl ect not just India’s magnifi cent cultural heritage but also its growing technological sophistication. Aesthetic Grandeur Benoy Behl’s essay on the fi nesse displayed by our craftsmen in of Mughal Gardens the 7 th century temples at Mamallapuram is juxtaposed with SHUBHRA MAZUMDAR 2 Shubhra Mazumdar’s write up on the aesthetics and symmetry Dhokra Craft: Heritage Sports of the Mughal Gardens. Leela Venkatraman links Protima Bedi’s Transcending Time Hockey on Horse Back: dramatic encounter with Odissi dance with the establishment REKHA SHANKAR 38 Manipuri’s Traditions of Nrityagram, while Madhushree Chatterjee brings out the of Polo growing global popularity of different strands of Indian music. Lucknow DEBABRATA BANERJEE 78 and its Street Food To add variety, we explain the intricacies of Dhokra craft and Sacred Plants in the inducements of Lucknow’s street cuisine. The articles on ANIL MEHROTRA 44 Indian Lore... Manipur’s tradition of polo and on India’s sacred plants, the PRAN NEVILE 82 tribute to Leela Naidu and the report on the Jaipur Literature A New Spring in Festival continue our magazine’s tradition of bringing a diverse India-Bangladesh Ties menu of cultural offerings to our readers. MANISH CHAND 50 The Indian Institute of Science, now a hundred years old, Living Rocks of Mamallapuram Bandra-Worli Sea Link: provides the bridge between the ancient and the modern, An Engineering Marvel BENOY K BEHL 12 between the cultural and the technological. It is part of our QUAID NAJMI 54 on-going series to profi le some of India’s fi nest academic institutions and leads us to the quartet of articles on science and Automobiles technology. The two on tele-medicine and on stem cells research Designed to Win The Charms of the explore the quest for cutting-edge technology for delivery of ANNAMMA OOMMEN 58 Jaipur Literature Festival high quality and affordable health care, while the ones on AMRIT DHILLON 86 automobiles and the Bandra-Worli Sea Link are a testimony to One Hundred Years of design and engineering skills. The Indian Institute Book Review The important visit of the Prime Minister of Bangladesh and the of Science Himalaya: View from a wide-ranging agreements signed during the visit add a slight P. BALARAM 66 Camera in the Clouds political fl avour to this issue. A unique experiment in SUDHIR SAHI 94 Our next issue will be a special edition on Rabindranath Tagore Tele-Medicine 70 but more about that later. Meanwhile, happy reading. As always, wwee vavaluelue yyour feedback. Nrityagram and Stem Cells towards a

the Passion for Dance Disease-Free Tomorrow Front cover: Bijayini Satpathy LEELA VENKATARAMAN 22 RICHA SHARMA 72 and Surupa Sen in an Odissi pose. Photo: Deepak Mudgal NNavdeepavdeep Suri Aesthetic Grandeur of Mughal Gardens

SHUBHRA MAZUMDAR

A garden by any yardstick is an ordered design of the outdoors, particularly if the garden is one of the numerous Mughal gardens in India, designed to exude the feeling of an exquisitely enclosed bit of paradise on earth, through its dignifi ed rules of layout philosophy.

or the emperor himself, the garden space was an Fexterior imagery depicting the grandeur of the imperial power, while for the mystic and religious minded, its serene landscape embodied the concept of the Charbagh (four gardens) or the even older concept, described in the Book of Genesis, of a river that ran out of the Garden of Eden and thereafter, parted into ‘four heads’. Paradoxically, this highbrow thematic connection with ideology completely sloughs off when one is actually inside one of the Mughal gardens. What strikes one at that time is the manner in which the space

Amit Mehra Nishat Garden, Srinagar, Kashmir

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 2 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 3 has been arranged for both Their rectangular arrangement sides carved, with the wash of utility and ornamentation. The is the most economical way of the stream running over these engineering skill of constructed irrigating land. Instead of letting designed engravings. In the water channels to irrigate the these channels run mundanely moonlight, when the carvings garden forms its rigid persona. the Mughal penchant for were obliterated, the pearly On the other hand, the planted aesthetics exploited this lustre of the water element fruit trees and exotic plant essential element into the focal suggested a living force, species growing luxuriantly, point of their garden art. caressed by the surroundings. relay a comfortable duality of Using feats of engineering, Who then were the builders form and freedom. visual appeal and even aural of these gardens? Apart from Currently, these gardens might accents the water was made the emperors themselves, it have outlived their horticultural to descend into the garden was the princesses of the royal importance as fruit orchards from a height, simulating the household who have left their or botanical exhibits, but their effect of a cascading waterfall. mark on garden building in close link with agricultural Dismissing notions of creating Mughal times. The very fi rst traditions lives on, as these the wild outdoors, these signifi cant one of them was Chasma Shahi and Shalimar Bagh, spaces were outstanding channels were contained within Hamida Banu Begum, the Srinagar (right & below) and Charbagh, Agra (facing page). examples of water utilization. a stone cascade, which had its principal widow of Emperor Amit Mehra

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 4 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 5 Humayun, who had ordered a piece of paradise. Centuries oasis of peace away from the was nurtured at the emperor’s the idea of eternity. The dark garden to be laid around the later, other princesses of the intrigues of the Mughal court. behest. Naturally, ceremonial cypress tree symbolized the tomb of the late emperor. It royal household, notably the At about this time, one of the occasions of importance were dark unknown, or death. It became the fi rst tomb garden in daughters of the Emperor Shah Emperor’s wives Akbarabadi, preferably held in the garden, was invariably intertwined India, with its 30-acre premises Jahan, pursued the art with built a garden in Delhi’s explaining why Aurangzeb chose with a fl owering creeper or adjoining the banks of the river aplomb. Princess Jahanara, Shalimar Bagh. It was a replica to be crowned at the Shalimar a rose in bloom, symbolizing Yamuna. While incorporating carried the tradition to the town of the garden by that name in Bagh, rather than the grander life. The cycle of life and the the Charbagh design style of Ambala, located at the water Kashmir. Red Fort, built by his father. continuation of eternity was of Emperor Babur, its square divide between the Ganga and even engraved in stone as Not just pleasure retreats for In life as in death, the garden grid was subdivided with the Indus river systems. is evident in the fl oral inlay royalty, the Mughal garden also complex of the Mughals was help of water channels. A wall adorning the Taj Mahal. Her sister Roshanara, has left symbolised territorial control. to serve the emperor in equal built of rubble surrounded this behind Delhi’s Roshanara The emperor resided in this measure. Hence the plants for Settings for these cameo-like Bagh, earlier a surround of orderly space and every blade these gardens were chosen spaces of greenery was another The garden around the tomb of Emperor Humayun at New Delhi. dense forestry, creating an and every bough, grew and with a view to keeping alive of the astute aspects of the Ashok Dilwali

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 6 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 7 Indian Mughal Garden. They were showcased beside the bank of a river, nestling at the bottom of a hillside, or overlooking a valley. Of the latter, the best example is the garden built in Kashmir, between the surrounding hills of the valley and beside the largest natural lake of the state, the Dal Lake. The fl ow of water as it is channelised from a height, gives the feeling of life coursing through the veins of greenery. The placid lakefront and the progression of majestic chinar plantings simulate the approach of the emperor. Sans hills, the garden drew its strength from the adjoining riverfront. The river fl owing beside the Taj entombed the mausoleum almost womb-like, while the walls demarcated the hustle of the bazaar and the dusty expanse of the Yamuna plains beyond. Similarly, the gardens in forts and palaces offered a panoramic spread overlooking the countryside. It was an uninterrupted view of one’s conquest as one gazed at the sprawl at the foot of the citadel. Gradually from being scenes of grandiose ceremonies, sources of indulgent pleasures, resting places of the high and mighty, the garden became a place for interpreting the colonial presence. When Delhi became the capital of India, the architect

An aerial view of Mughal Garden at

Amit Mehra Rashtrapati Bhawan, New Delhi.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 8 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 9 Lutyens, designed a Mughal style garden in the Viceregal Palace, now known as the Mughal Gardens of Rashtrapati Bhavan. In its architectural setting the garden of the 20th century interprets the traditional Mughal garden technique by enclosing the space within a walled compound. Water channels running north to south and east to west divide the rectilinear plot into four, while the borders of annuals hark back to an English country garden. Instead of becoming a medley without a motive, it is the Mughal element in this garden framework that works as its holistic formula. And it is this ability to incorporate into its fold the adjustments of the times that make Mughal gardens such a resilient entity. Begun as a beloved imperial pastime, the Mughal Gardens are now blueprints of formal layouts. In their ability to accommodate fl exibility and preserve for posterity, these gardens have injected a keynote angle to our culture. ◆ The author is a noted writer on arts.

Another view of the Mughal Garden at

Prakash Israni Rashtrapati Bhawan, New Delhi.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 10 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 11 Living Rocks of Mamallapuram

Text and photographs: BENOY K BEHL

The magnifi cent temples of Mamallapuram refl ect the fully developed styles of South Indian temples.

Shore Temple, Mamallapuram, 8 th century. The balance and proportions of the two slender towers of the Shore Temple make it one of the fi nest examples of Indian structural temples. The sculpted details are in great harmony with the overall conception. Nandis, made along the outer wall, greet you and invite you into the sacred space beyond.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 12 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 13 n the shores of Tamil Nadu, on the eastern coast of peninsular people. Boulders were carved into fi ne temples. Rocks were chiselled India, is a marvellous town of temples, carved out of rock. into the shapes of animals. Mamallapuram was one of the greatest sea-faring ports of O The magnifi cent temples of Mamallapuram refl ect fully developed ancient times. In early times, this bustling town would have had a styles of South Indian temples. Obviously, such temples must have great cosmopolitan culture. In its markets, people from Southeast been made for a long time prior to this period. The earlier ones must Asia would have rubbed shoulders with Romans. Coins found here have been made out of ephemeral materials and have not survived. testify to extensive trade with Rome and other places, since at least the 1st century. Colonies of Romans are also known to have been present Facing the ancient port and not very far from it is one of the marvels in this part of Tamil Nadu at that time. of the sculptural art of India. The face of a vast granite rock, almost 100 feet by 50 feet, has been transformed into a world of divine and This port town was called Mamalai, or ‘great hill’. Narasimhavarman earthly beings. This giant relief is believed to be of the early or middle Pallava, known as Mamalla or the ‘Great Warrior’, expanded the 7th century. facilities of the port in the 7th century. Ships sailed constantly from here to Sri Lanka and South East Asia. Narasimhavarman changed the name This tableau presents the auspicious moment of the descent of the of the port to Mamallapuram or ‘city of Mamalla’. river Ganga, to bestow her blessings and her treasure of fertility to the world. Some scholars have also interpreted this scene to be of the Here, over perhaps a hundred years, from about 630 to 728 AD, penance of Arjuna, the hero of the epic Mahabharata. A deep cleft marvellous monuments were cut out of outcrops of hard grey granite. in the rock has been artfully used to represent the great river, as she Cliff faces were transformed into a teeming world of animals and

Mahishasurmardini Cave, Mamallapuram, 7 th century. Even while great themes were made Descent of the Ganga, Mamallapuram, 7 th century. One of the wonders of the art of in rock-cut relief at Mamallapuram, caves were excavated out of the hills, continuing the Mamallapuram is the sensitive and naturalistic depiction of animals. The elephant appears as tradition seen in Western India. In the depth and silence of the interior, the worshipper was if alive and its little ones steal the heart with their tender portrayal. presented the stories of deities, who personifi ed great concepts and the qualities within us.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 14 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 15 Gajalakshmi, Varaha Cave, Mamallapuram, 7 th century. This is the theme of the deity Varaha Avatara, Varaha Cave, Mamallapuram, mid 7 th century. To fi ght the confusion Lakshmi, being lustrated by elephants. Since the Buddhist art of the 2nd century BC, and evil of ignorance, the deity Vishnu is envisaged as descending upon the earth as the Gajalakshmi has been a perennial theme in Indic art. In fact, while it was mainly yakshas and powerful Varaha Avatara, in the form of a boar. He saves the earth goddess Bhu-devi from yakshis, which were depicted then, she was the fi rst formalized deity to be seen. Like the being drowned, representing the great power within us, which can save us from the ocean yakshis she also represents the fruitful abundance of nature. of ignorance. The depiction is imbued with the grace and sophistication, which is seen in the regally sponsored art of the Pallava period. descends. In fact, there is a storage tank made above. On ceremonial Close by is another relief depicting the same subject. However, it is occasions, water must have been let out to rush down the cleft, giving unfi nished. A little to the left of the great ‘Descent of the Ganga’, a sense of reality to the sacred scene. a Krishna Govardhan scene is carved out of a boulder. Lord Krishna holds up the Govardhan mountain to protect the village from the fury A teeming world in a forest has been created around the river. of the storm. It is a charming scene. With peace restored and the storm About a hundred fi gures of animals, men, women and divine beings, forgotten, a cowherd plays the fl ute, another milks a cow. This is one all turn in reverence towards the life-giving river. These are all made of the fi nest depictions of rustic life in Indian art. approximately life-sized and with great sensitivity and naturalism. In Pallava times, when this relief was made, there was no mandapa The many beings, which populate the world created around the river, made in front of it. Therefore, we saw clearly the whole mountain are made with a great sense of liveliness. In these there is a sense of above Krishna as he lifted it. In later times, with the coming of more freedom and the joy of creation expressed by the artists. formalized norms, a mandapa was made in front of the scene, to accord the due status to the deity. Of course, in this the effectiveness The realism and life-like softness of the elephants is remarkable. The of the theme was largely lost. details of the baby elephants show the artists’ deep concern for all the beings of the world. Another detail of a deer scratching his nose shows The soft rendering and slender forms of the Pallava idiom are great sensitivity and observation of the natural world. again seen in the Varaha Mandapa of around the middle of the

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 16 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 17 The Adivaraha cave is notable eternal. Therefore, art did not They are a marvellous record for having the portraits of traditionally depict ephemeral in stone of the many forms of King Narasimhavarman, with personalities. From here onwards, temple architecture in South India his queens. There is also a we see a shift take place and at that time. representation of his son with emphasis begins to come upon his wives. After the period of the personality of the monarch. The monoliths are named after the Kushanas, who hailed from the fi ve Pandava brothers of There are nine monolithic southern China and had portraits the epic Mahabharata and their freestanding temples, cut out of made of themselves in royal common wife Draupadi. They boulders. Five of them are in shrines in the 1st century, these form a coherent group and were one group. These are the earliest are the earliest surviving portraits probably made in the middle of such edifi ces in India to be th of Indian kings. the 7 century. carved both on the outside and In early India, the purpose of art the inside, out of rock. They are Built right next to the lapping was always to take our thoughts popularly called rathas, or temple waves of the sea, one of the away from the passing reality chariots. This is a misnomer as glories of Mamallapuram, is of the world, to that which was they are meant to be temples. a temple with two towers,

King Narasimhavarman’s portrait, Adivaraha Cave, Mamallapuram. After the 1st century AD, in the period of the Kushana rulers, Above: Seated Cow, Krishna Mandapa, 7th century. Here we also see is given to the relief by fi gures who came from southern China, the Pallava period brings us the fi rst portraits of rulers in India. King Narasimhavarman is depicted Mamallapuram, 7 th century. The life of here and in a close-by panel, his son is also represented. This marks the beginning of a new sense of royal importance and man is not seen in isolation in the vision of the developments of Pallava that turn inwards and others that grandeur, which was largely to infl uence the future course of Indic art and architecture. these artists. We live in a world pervaded iconography and architectural are seen from the back. Such with so many beings and the truth of life is presented here with none of these forgotten. styles. Seated lions made on the arrangements of fi gures were also It is this cow and so many of the other bases of pillars are characteristic. seen in the paintings of Ajanta living inhabitants of this world, which create of the 5th century and in the art the warmth of life presented by the artists of There are four major sculptural Mamallapuram. of the Krishna Valley in Andhra panels in the cave. Vishnu is seen Right: Elderly man and child, Krishna Pradesh. Mandapa, Mamallapuram, 7 th century. in the Varaha avatara, saving Amid all the grandeur of the divine themes, the earth goddess Bhu Devi from One of the most magnifi cent the pulsating details of life are not forgotten by the artist. To the side of the scene where being submerged in the ocean. depictions in Mamallapuram Lord Krishna holds aloft Mount Govardhana, All Indian myths operate at many is that of Mahishasuramardini, this delightful detail of the life of the village th is endearing. levels and this also signifi es the made in a 7 century cave. It saving of mankind from the is entirely different from earlier ocean of ignorance. Vishnu is representations of this subject. also presented in the form of Durga, battles the demon buffalo Trivikrama, the conqueror of the or Mahisha, who represents the three worlds. evil of ignorance. It is a most animated scene and, unlike The rear wall of the cave has before, the scale is naturalistic. Gajalakshmi made on it. Lakshmi, Here the demon has a human who represents prosperity, is body and the head of a buffalo. lustrated by elephants here. Also The natural poses of the fi gures, on the rear wall is a relief of advancing from one side and Durga, who represents victory pulling back upon the other, over ignorance. enhances the drama and realism In Pallava art, the fi gures are of the subject. The self-assured slender and delicately made. ganas of Durga’s army of The scale is naturalistic. A depth Righteousness are unforgettable.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 18 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 19 known as the Shore Temple. The fi nely worked slender towers are among the most beautiful of any structure in the Indian subcontinent. The temple was probably made by Narasimhavarman II or Rajasimha, in the early 8th century. He is believed to have established the tradition of building structural stone temples in Tamil Nadu. Perhaps the most memorable aspect of the art of Mamallapuram is the depiction of the many beings, which inhabit the world, the deer, the cows, the elephants and others. Man is seen amidst the world of nature, as one of its many manifestations. The Indian sculptor manages to communicate the living, breathing quality and emotions of animals with a rare empathy. What gives the art of ancient India a special place is its vision of the world: a vision which sees the same in each of us, men and women, in animals, plants, trees, even the breeze which moves the leaves. It sees a unity in the whole of creation, which imparts a great harmony and compassion to this vision. First published in Frontline.

The author is a fi lm-maker, art-historian and photographer.

The Five Rathas, Mamallapuram, mid to late 7 th century. These fi ve temples, misnamed rathas, or chariots, depict the various forms, which the south Indian temple structure had taken. These are cut out of huge boulders, in imitation of structural temples. There would have been many structures of these shapes made out of wood and other ephemeral materials, which have not survived. The numerous kinds of temples seen here, along with rock-cut relief and caves, give a fairy-tale like quality to this fascinating town of divine structures.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 20 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 21 become a well known Odissi Nrityagram performer. The idea of a dance village, in and the manner of Rukmini Devi’s Kalakshetra, (coincidentally the Passion for Dance Rukmini Devi too started learning Bharatanatyam when Text: LEELA VENKATARAMAN she was nearly 30 years old) far Photographs: AVINASH PASRICHA from the assaulting sounds and distractions of a city possessed Nrityagram the dance village is a paradise where dancers, Protima a few years later. musicians, writers and theatre people frequently come Haunting the home of the then together for workshops to pool their creative energies. Chief Minister Ramakrishna Hegde, she fi nally succeeded estled amidst the sylvan woods of Hessargetta, Nrityagram in getting for lease, in the the dance village, thirty miles outside the urban limits of same region, where land was Bangalore is a ten acre farmland, a paradise where dancers, demarcated for the fi lm city, N Doyenne Kalanidhi Narayanan conducting a worskshop on interpretative dance musicians, writers and theatre people frequently come together ten acres for a dance village. for workshops to pool their creative energies, enthused by the “I think the Chief Minister got overwhelming fertility of Nature all round. This brainchild of the late Protima Bedi was the Cuttack by train tomorrow and so driven and fed up of seeing unlikeliest dream for one see a saree-clad woman, with me everywhere – when he was A view of some of the Nrityagram cottages growing amidst high society a bindi on the forehead, sitting in offi ce, when he went home, and the glare of Bollywood on the doorstep of my house, when he came out of the room in Bombay, whose life turned will I consider the request.” to the gardens – he decided topsy-turvy the day she casually Sure of having gotten rid of this the only way to get rid of me went to an auditorium to pick oddity, Kelucharan Mohapatra was to lease the land”, Protima up a friend and was held forgot about the incident till – lo was to remark comically much mesmerised by the magic of the and behold – alighting from later – though she never denied late Guru Kelucharan Mohapatra the rickshaw, he was greeted that but for a forward looking performing Odissi. Gone were by a demure fi gure in saree CM, her vision would have the images of the near-bald and blouse with a neat bindi remained unfulfi lled. Then came male performer, with paan decorating the forehead sitting the gruelling months working stained teeth. All that remained “like patience on a monument” with architect Gerard De Cunha was the ecstasy, passion and on the verandah steps! Unable to raise funds, design and build melting grace of the dance and to deny such persistence, cottages as lodging and teaching the conviction that she had Guruji asked Protima to join his space for gurus and students. to learn it, come what may. class and do as the others did, Living in a tent, with snakes and Backstage after the performance still convinced that this fl ash scorpions as frequent visitors, she accosted Guruji “Guruji, in the pan interest would soon and toilet facilities at a distance please teach me this dance,” peter out. Protima persevered to be reached with the help of Looking up and down at this and only much later when a torch guiding one at night, pant-clad, pony-tailed fi gure Guruji went to Bombay to Protima took all the hardship in in stiletto heels, the Guru conduct classes did she get the her stride. Finally it was a proud nonchalantly set a condition. necessary individual attention to moment in 1990 on the 11th “Only if by the time I reach polish up her dance, to fi nally of May when Nrityagram was

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 22 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 23 inaugurated by none less than groomed under Gangadhar as Managing Trustee, was the then Prime Minister of India Pradhan of Bhubaneswar. an actress and light designer V.P. Singh. Surupa’s superbly creative having worked with theatre mind with her imaginative Sharing her dreams and people like Barry John, Joy choreographic concepts, aspirations was Protima’s prime Michael and Lillete Dubey. She visualised by the incredible disciple Surupa Sen, who as was persuaded by Protima to body of Bijayini along with the the soul mate of her Guru, was visit Nrityagram. After a two ensemble productions, which destined to step in overnight as month stay there, getting a have raised the bar for group the person presiding over the feel of the place and helping choreography, have made dance Gurukul, when death Protima in a friendly manner Nrityagram a place to reckon prematurely snatched Protima in various ways, she was with in Odissi. away from the scene in 1998, caught off guard when Protima in a landslide in the Himalayan Protima’s instincts in certain told her that she was making region. Surupa was left with her other areas were unerring. her the Managing Trustee of fellow disciple Bijayini Satpathy Lynne Fernandez who since Nrityagram. “But why?” asked a priceless dancer initially 1993 has been with Nrityagram the bewildered Lynne. “I am

Protima in a concluding pose while interpreting a lyric from Jayadeva’s Geeta Govind (facing page) and three profi les of a movement executed by Protima (below).

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 24 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 25 not even from the dance fi eld dance put in by this ensemble, of Nrityagram performances more common to Mayurbhanj and know little about classical has to be seen to be believed. sets them apart. The dancers Chhau but which Odissi dance.” “I have Surupa for that. With Yoga, Meditation, Martial work on the farm too and dancers with the usual training You need not worry. For the arts training, study of Sanskrit, this feel for earth imparts to are not able to accommodate. last several days that you have Mythology and Literature, the the dance a quality that is It has to be said that in been here with us, you have opportunities for integrated special – a view shared strongly dance based on the Jayadeva worked without once asking for learning are endless. With by both late Guru Kelucharan Ashtapadis for instance, there is anything for yourself. You have artists from all disciplines and Mohapatra (who attributed his no dearth of lyrical grace in the thought only of the institution. I choreographers from round the art sensitivity to having worked Nrityagram dancers. am convinced that you are the world dropping in constantly in a betel leaf orchard watering person I need for Nrityagram” to interact with the students, and looking after the plants) The Ensemble has found in and ever since Lynne has made the inmates have a rare artistic and Protima herself. musician Raghunath Panigrahi ambience, inculcating an (who after the premature Nrityagram her home, working As Protima always maintained awareness of the give and take and sudden death of his wife for the institution day and night. “Nrityagram is a way of life.” between art forms. Each aspect Sanjuktha Panigrahi was at a The Odissi Gurukul goes of dance presentation, music, During the annual Vasantahabba loose end and found in the from strength to strength, its rhythm, costuming, lighting and celebration, to watch over Nrityagram commitment to profi ciency earning Nrityagram space coverage is meticulously 40,000 spectators seated in the Odissi shades of Sanjukta’s the highest of laurels. The attended to in all productions. open air amphitheatre watching involvement), an ideal music amazing number of hours of The fi nesse and excellence all night performances of music composer. His musical and dances of all hues is an knowledge along with his Bharati Shivaji demonstrating a pose in Dancers performing in the amphitheatre of Nrityagram unforgettable sight. Mohiniattam. understanding of Sanskrit and Surupa’s own intense creative It was in 1996 that the National Dance Project of the endeavours fi nd the right Ensemble’s life-changing New England Foundation for alchemy. The Carnatic violin New York debut made the the Arts and most recently duo brothers Ganesh Kumaresh landmark break into mainstream Joyce Theatre. Apart from the have also worked composing performing in North America Tribhanga (the three bend music for Nrityagram. – a status very few classical posture and Chauka (square Indian troupes have been given. half-seated stance with the Nrityagram’s fi rst full length This tour was without Protima knees turned out), the main production “Sri – In Search of who had to keep the home stylistic concerns of Odissi, the the Goddess”, premiered in fi res burning in Nrityagram Nrityagram approach to Odissi Delhi in 2001 and in the United and unfortunately she never makes use of leg extensions and States in 2002-2003, evoked lived to see the mainstream high leaps which the orthodox high critical acclaim. Ansh performances of Nrityagram. community of purists feel are was a re-conception of items Performing to sold-out shows an extension taking liberties from a typical Odissi format. in Hawai and Bozeman, with the form as taught by “Sacred Space” inspired by USA, Middle East, Far East the Gurus. They feel that such temple architecture like that of and Europe, the Nrityagram robust physicality will dilute the Chausat Jogini in Orissa, Ensemble has created a niche the lyricism of Odissi one of its premiered in Chennai during for itself in the world of art. main characters. The point is the Music Academy Festival Apart from the Odissi inherited that the stringent body training in December 2005 and was from the Guru, Nrityagram that the Nrityagram performers judged the best production of has done a lot of innovative go through gives them a felicity the season. Commissioned by work enabled by grants from for movements which may look the Joyce Theatre’s Stephen and

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 26 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 27 Cathy Weinroth Fund for New and Choreographer carries Work “Pratima: Refl ection” in on tirelessly. Her duet which the dancer’s relationship performances with Bijayini with the dance is built round provide some of the best the truths of “Creation, Odissi one can see. Their Gita Contemplation, Separation and Govinda Ashtapadis have an the Duality of the human spirit” enthralling lyricism suiting the premiered in 2008 and Joan poetic splendour of these songs. Acocella of The New Yorker Bijayini who has herself been (12/9/2008) listed Vibhakta, a the recipient of several awards scene from Pratima, among the like the Mahari Award (2003), ten best dance performances. Bismillah Khan Yuva Puraskar by the Sangeet Natak Akademi Surupa Sen who has received in 2007, the Yagaraman Krishna the Raza Foundation award Gana Sabha award in 2008, for excellence in Dance in Sanskriti award in 2007, has 2007, the Yagnaraman award worked very hard on creating from Sri Krishna Gana Sabha new techniques for Odissi in 2008 as Artistic Director dance training. Pavitra Reddy,

Radha and Krishna in a Manipuri item (facing page) and a performance of Yakshagana at the Nrityagram (below).

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 28 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 29 Rasmi Raj and Manasi Tripathy are the other permanent dancers of the Ensemble. The dance studio, auditorium, exhibition space, physiotherapy unit are all Lynne’s new inductions into Nrityagram. Working throughout the year, it is still a back breaking task keeping the institution going, primarily because of its location which is both a blessing and a drawback, for getting resident musicians and percussionists is never easy. Many dance aspirants who want to be day scholars learning in this institution, fi nd the logistics of to and fro movement too diffi cult. Nrityagram’s outreach programme in the village and city, however, has many students who are benefi ted. For anybody a stay in Nrityagram is like a dream come true, where Dance and Nature are in close company. Sustaining this dream are very hard working professionals who have dedicated their lives to art and who deserve all the help and encouragement possible. The winner will be Dance and Odissi in particular.

The author is a dance critic.

Bijayini and Surupa showing the bee getting attracted to the Lotus – the image is a metaphorical depiction for the love of

Deepak Mudgal Radha and Krishna.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 30 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 31 Bonding through Melody INDIAN MUSIC GOES GLOBAL

MADHUSREE CHATTERJEE

As the world joyously hums “Jai Ho”, the Oscar winning song scored by composer A.R. Rahman, the two words meaning ‘glory be’ sum up a golden moment for Indian music. The country’s 1,000-year-old musical legacy has just acquired a global outlook and a new face.

H.E. Nikolai Bulganin, Russian Prime Minister presenting bouquet to the artists of the Photo Division, Government of India Shadow Play “Ramlila” staged by Uday Shankar and his troupe. Prime Minister Baba Allauddin Khan Jawaharlal Nehru is also seen in the picture. he international spotlight is on Indian music like never before, especially fusion which combines traditional classical Tragas and ethnic folk beats with sounds from the West. The country’s fi rst ever Oscar for a song has come at the same time as a Grammy for India’s Ustad Zakir Hussain, famous for making magic with the tabla, a percussion instrument.

“The world is discovering our music all over again. We have so much to give,” said Hussain, who collaborated with Western musicians on the Grammy winning “Global Drum Project”.

Vocalist Lakshmi Shankar, who bagged a Grammy nomination and specialises in Hindustani classical music that has roots in the country’s northern half, describes this period as “the second renaissance of Indian music. I fi nd in the west that everyone is craving for our music; they want to hear more of it”.

Indian music, however, has been making forays past geographical boundaries for almost seven decades, though not as dramatically as now.

Many historians concur that Indian music fi rst went abroad in 1930 with dancer-musician Uday Shankar – whose company, headquartered in Paris, toured Europe, North America and

Photo Division, Government of India Southeast Asia for eight years.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 32 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 33 Mickey Hart, drummer of the popular American band The Grateful Dead, found it hard to believe that Chatur Lal was playing the ‘tabla’ with bare hands! Hart, one of the best percussionists that western contemporary music has ever had, felt: “Indian rhythm was very Arabic, very Moorish with intense multi-layered detail.” Musician-author Peter Lavezzoli, a professional drummer and musician based in Miami and St. Louis who spends his winters in India listening to and writing about Indian classical music, says developments in technology have made it possible for Indian music to travel west. In his new book, “Bhairavi: The Global Impact of Indian Music”, Lavezzoli says before the invention of the long playing record, Indian classical recordings were limited to three-minute 78 rpm discs, manufactured solely for the Indian market. Technology also made it possible for sarod maestro Ali Akbar Khan to appear on television in the US – the fi rst Indian classical musician to do so. If 1955 was the year when the seed for Indian classical music was planted in the west, then 1967 was a watershed when the search

Conductor and violinist Yehudi Menuhin presented Indian classical music to the west Ustad Ali Akbar Khan in a concert

The ensemble boasted of some of the biggest names in the history of Indian classical music like Baba Allauddin Khan, a legendary player of the string instrument ‘sarod’; vocalist and instrumentalist Vishnu Das Shirali; and composer Timir Baran.

In 1955, famous conductor and violinist Yehudi Menuhin presented to the west “Music of India: Morning and Evening Raga”, the fi rst long-playing record of Indian classical music. The album featured Ustad Ali Akbar Khan on ‘sarod’, Pandit Chatur Lal on the ‘tabla’ and Shirish Gor on the string instrument tambura.

In a foreword, Menuhin introduced each musical instrument and the sounds that it created for the western ear.

When American composer La Monte Young fi rst heard the drone of the ‘tambura’ on the radio that was broadcasting the concerto in 1957, he drove to the nearest store to purchase the LP. Young eventually studied Indian music for 26 years with vocalist Pandit Pran Nath.

Menuhin also famously partnered Ravi Shankar, the Indian legend known for his mastery over the string instrument ‘sitar’, for the

album “West Meets East” in the 1960s. Photo Division, Government of India

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 34 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 35 for an alternative worldview led musicians to Asia, especially India, to explore its spiritual and aesthetic traditions. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, an Indian seer who spread the ancient science of transcendental meditation in Europe and America, captured the imagination of the Beatles – one of the greatest British pop-rock bands that ever existed. The quartet from Liverpool spent nearly six weeks at the seer’s retreat in Rishikesh and composed more than 30 songs there. It also saw the beginning of a lifelong association between George Harrison, one of the Beatles, and Ravi. The spread of Indian religions like the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, Buddhism and the Chinmaya cult also helped open the doors for Indian music in the west. Lavezzoli reminisces in his book about the time Ravi Shankar and late tabla maestro Ustad Alla Rakha performed at the Monterey Pop Festival in California in 1967. “The weekend’s events were fi lmed... capturing several of rock’s legendary fi gures in their prime – Jimi Hendrix, the WHOs, Otis Photo Division, Government of India Sitar maestro Ravi Shankar and Ustad Zakir Hussain on tabla, a percussion instrument in a concert Music Director and Oscar Award winner A R Rahman performing at the Doordarshan’s 50th Anniversary celebrations in New Delhi on August 11, 2009.

Redding and Janis Joplin... almost all the musicians were there in the audience for Ravi Shankar’s set; most of them never having seen him before... And the response of the audience was ecstatic, further catapulting Shankar to stardom.” In 1994, Indian musician Pandit Vishwa Mohan Bhatt, who invented the string instrument ‘mohan veena’, won a Grammy along with Ry Cooder for the album “A Meeting By The River”. The crowning glory has been recognition for the country’s fi lm music industry – be it for a composer like A.R. Rahman or a sound designer like Resool Pookutty, both of whom hail from southern India and brought home Oscars for the fi lm “Slumdog Millionaire”, made by British director Danny Boyle. As Vishwa Mohan Bhatt sums it up: “If the 1970s were about Beatlemania and Ravi Shankar, 2009 is about Indian musicians moving westward for the next musical wave. The west is overawed by our ragas and discipline. They are overwhelmed by the emotions in our music; that is what gets the attention of the world.”

(Source: Indo-Asian News Service)

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 36 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 37 crafted products have been a popular metal for casting, in the folk or fi ne art style, is an alloy of Copper and Dhokra Craft depending on the community of Tin. Both these metals have the craftsperson. The materials the glow of Gold. Over the TRANSCENDING TIME have been clay, metal, wood years, metal craft, like all other REKHA SHANKAR and hand spun yarn and the crafts developed under royal artisan – the weaver, potter, patronage and metalworkers The “artistic elegance” of Dhokra craft has stood the test of metal smith or wood worker developed mastery over metal was an integral part of the local casting and sculpture making. time. As one of the oldest known methods of non-ferrous community. metal casting known to human civilisation, it is still evolving Dhokra craft is the earliest and breaking new grounds. The use of metal in India can be method of non-ferrous metal traced back to Vedic times. The casting known to humankind. metalworker, called Karmara, he cultural creative mosaic of the country known as India has The word Dhokra literally enjoyed a high position in a recorded history of over 5000 years. One of humankind’s means “oldest” and comes from society. There is reference in earliest civilisations, the people of this ancient land have over the name of the Dhokra Kamar T the Yajurveda to Rudra, the lord tribes of West Bengal who are the years developed skills and techniques that are passed down of lightning, paying respect from one generation to the next in the oral tradition and through traditional metal smiths. They to the family of the Karmara. family and community activities. Indian craftspeople have worked are a group that specialises in

Metalworking like other Bimla Verma Dr. with their hands creating objects of beauty, utility and for worship this art form. Some historians artisanal activities is infused with local materials and images from the world around them. The feel that the tribes originally with religion. In fact, before an came from the Bastar region artisan begins work, he prays of Chhattisgarh and being for guidance to Tvastram, nomadic, moved around in the son of Visvakarma, the adjoining areas and have described in the Hindu epic over a period of time, settled in Mahabharata as “the Lord of the tribal areas of the states of the arts, executor of a thousand Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, handicrafts”. Metals have Orissa, West Bengal, Jharkhand religious signifi cance for the and Andhra Pradesh. Though average Indian and metal icons they are ethnically the same, fi nd place in family temples or they are identifi ed by different prayer rooms in homes across names in each state. Their the country. Over 2000 years method of metal casting is ago, Indian metalworkers made known as cire perdue, the lost a breakthrough in the fi eld of wax technique, and has been metallurgy. They succeeded practised in India for over in producing Brass – an alloy 4000 years. Evidence of similar of basic metals, which looked casting of Copper-based alloys almost exactly like Gold. has been found in China, Egypt, This was achieved by fusing alloy called Panchdhattu made Malaysia, Nigeria, and some Zinc and Copper where the with fi ve metals – Copper, areas of Central America. percentage of Zinc had to be Zinc, Gold, Silver and Lead and controlled between 10 and 12 has been a popular metal for One of the earliest known per cent. Another noteworthy crafting religious idols since artifacts, sculpted in this

Dr. Bimla Verma Dr. creation was that of a metal then. Brass and Bell metal, also technique is the ‘dancing

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 38 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 39 cane. It seems that these artisans of Chhattisgarh, craftspeople worked with grasses earlier and use wax thread and strips when they discovered metal while in the Sarguja area, they they used the new material with use a resin called Dhuvan. In the same textural treatment. Orissa, the wax is mixed with There are some differences Dhuna, resin from the Sal in the kind of furnaces used tree – Shorea Robusta. Details and minor variations in the of the fi nal design can be seen materials of each region but the on the pattern created with basic method is more or less this coating of wax threads. the same. In West Bengal, the The thin threads, 1/16th of an furnace is above the ground inch, are wound so tightly that whereas in Chhattisgarh and no part of the sand and clay other states, it is under ground. mould is visible. This layer is In Jharkhand, the heating then covered with clay and sun apparatus is fi xed to the mould dried. The clay coating takes itself. Initially, the metalworker the negative form of the wax has to work as a sculptor and on the inside and becomes a an artist. First, a rough mould mould for the metal that has to of sand, clay and paddy dust be poured inside it. Drain ducts is made. In West Bengal, this is are left for the wax to melt covered with a thread made of and drain out when the mould gala, a paste of mustard oil and is heated. Once the mould

bees wax. In the Bastar region Bimla Verma Dr. has dried, it is heated gently

girl,’ of Mohenjo-Daro, a describing the sculpture thought 10.8 centimeter high bronze that the little Baluchi style girl statuette. Believed to have (from Baluchistan) is, “for the been crafted in around 2500 moment, perfectly confi dent of BC, it was excavated in 1926 herself and the world. There’s from a house in the ancient nothing like her, I think, in the city of Mohenjodaro, now in world” – an ageless creation. Pakistan. People who have The painstaking and laborious seen the piece feel that the technique of this method of statuette seems to speak to its metal casting has remained viewer, reaching out through much the same since then and the ages, from its distant past unlike other crafts in India, in to the present with a posture Dhokra casting, any process and expression that are as can be done by either men or relevant today as they were on women. The surface treatment the day it was made. British of objects is very reminiscent of archaeologist Mortimer Wheeler, items made in grass, bamboo or

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 40 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 41 and as the wax starts to melt, instruments used in their daily goddess so they assume she ventured into tableware and molten metal is fi lled in the case life. Oil lamps with peacocks is riding the elephant they cutlery, which lends an air of to replace the wax. It is this are popular and made in many have made. With inputs the unusual to the simplest of process, the losing of wax that designs because they are a from development agencies, settings. The sonar, bhat and gives this technique its name. traditional gift to a daughter. government sponsored bhotia communities craft tribal The molten metal replaces the The traditional, pyalae, development projects and jewellery in brass to create wax over the inner mould and measuring cups, in various sizes designers, their repertoire has stunning impact. These are hardens between the core and earlier used to measure grains, grown to include a variety worn at festivals and on special the clay covering. It takes the have today found a ready use of products. These include occasions. Amongst the items same shape as the wax. Once as containers for nuts or fi nger statues, bowls, animal forms, made are necklaces, anklets, cooled and set, the outer layer bowls. In Bastar, the image of mythical creatures, gods, earrings, hairpins and bracelets. the elephant, which is perceived goddesses, and a range of of clay is broken open with Some objects found today seem to be the state goddess, known home accessories like lamp a large hack knife and the almost untouched by time and as Dhanteshwari is commonly stands, doorknobs, handles metal sculpture is removed. It yet are strangely relevant while made. Interestingly, artisans and chains. A few of the more is now ready for the fi nishing others seem to have evolved believe they cannot see the skilled craftspeople have even process. Except in hollow three into almost another genre, dimensional sculptures, the clay sophisticated and contemporary. cores are allowed to remain Each of their creations refl ects a inside the metal covering to add naivety and primitive simplicity, weight to the piece, particularly whether it is in their enchanting if it is a votive image and has to folk motifs or the whimsical be placed on an altar. rendition of scenes from their life in compositions, depicting The quality of the fi nished topics as diverse as a tribal product depends not only woman handling a computer; on the skill of the artist who a mother giving her baby an makes the mould but also oil massage or a cow basking on the one who does the under the shade of a tree. fi nishing. The surface is fi led Untrained in formal institutions, to make it smooth and pellets, the skill and aesthetic sense of lattices and spirals are used for these people are the result of its ornamentation. A unique their special worldview, still aspect of this craft is that no largely protected from foreign two Dhokra products can ever infl uences. India is indeed a be identical as each item is privileged country to own this moulded and cast in a new timeless heritage and be able to mould. The mould cannot be offer to the world the creative re-used as it has to be broken to beauty of its Dhokra artisans. extract the item. Every piece is perfected with great love, care The writer is involved with the Dastkari Haat Samiti and was a director of the India and artistry and items are priced Sponsor Foundation where she led a team according to their weight, fi nish to train women from marginalised sections of society as commercial drivers for the fi rst and the fi neness of the work. time in Delhi.

Traditionally, artisans made

Dr. Bimla Verma Dr. religious deities, vessels and

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 42 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 43 Thus, when assigned to write about Lucknow’s street food I choked. I do not consider myself a blue-blooded foodie in the true sense of the word, though I can discern and appreciate a good recipe, dish, and taste. Lucknow has so varied a gastronomical spread on its streets as well as off it, that to savor and write about it would unnerve the most seasoned of gourmand. Where the differentiation between the daily food is so prominent that it is referred as Aam Faham and festive food becomes Taqualluf Ke Khane! Historically speaking, the credit to put Lucknow on the gastronomical map of the world goes to its Nawabs – right from its fi rst Nawab Burhan-Ul-Mulk to the fl amboyant, poet and dancer Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. For the statistically oriented, 19 types of Kebabs, 37 types of bread, 35 types of Zarda (sweet rice preparation), 47 types of pulao (rice dishes), 37 types of sweets were created through gastronomical innovations during the reign of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula alone! Coupled with it is the fact that Lucknow was also the cradle where the world famous Dum Pukht cuisine was born, nursed and matured. From the most humble of beginnings Dum Pukht has conquered the imagination Siddarth Kak and taste-buds of food-lovers the world over. But more about it, later. The Nawabs who hailed from Iran were great lovers and patrons of Lucknow and its Street Food visual as well as performing arts in all its forms viz, dance, music, theatre and cuisine. The story goes that the water of Gomti River did ANIL MEHROTRA not suit the fragile constitution of the Nawabs who then summoned the royal vaids/hakims (someone practising alternative medicine) to Lucknow-the erstwhile seat of power of the Nawabs of Awadh, come up with a solution to their gastronomical problems! After many centre of Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb (mannerisms), a cornucopia deliberations the royal doctors suggested using turmeric recipes and the remedy worked. of chikankari, zardoji, mellifl uous Urdu and delectable cuisine, is the proverbial melting pot of cultures and cuisines, art and Yet another story explains creation of the melt-in-the-mouth variety of Lucknow’s famous Kakori Kebabs. An aged, toothless Nawab from the artisans, traditional and the modern. Cuisine here transcends nearby village of Kakori, unable to resist the mouth watering delicacies the confi nes of kitchen and is revered as a work of art. ordered his Khansama (cook) to come up with a recipe permitting him

Spicy Mutton Korma Mouth-watering Tunde Kebab t Lucknow, different cuisines come together unlike other States which are food specifi c. Thus, where Bengal prefers its rice with AMacher Jhol (Fish curry), Gujarat is predominantly vegetarian. Southern states and Bihar lean heavily on coconut and rice but Kashmiri’s relish their mutton gushtaba and Wazwan (formal meal) and the next door Jammu is Rajma- Chawal (kidney bean preparation with rice) oriented. While eastern states are meat and rice specifi c, in Haryana and Punjab wheat rules and neighboring Himachal banks on rice and corn. At Lucknow rice and roti (a type of baked bread) are at par and Biryani (meat and rice dish) occupies the same exalted status as roomali roti (a thin round type of bread baked individually) and Mutton-do-Pyaza (meat and onion dish) is as revered as Malka

Masoor (pink lentils). Anil Mehrotra Siddarth Kak

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 44 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 45 to taste the kebab without having souffl é with the most delicate to chew or upset his tummy. kiss of butter yellow colour! What the Khansama produced We caught a cycle-richshaw to please his master is today the to Aminabad, yet another old world renowned Kakori Kebab! market where food dominates. We decided to embark upon Besides an outlet of Tunde our gastronomical tour with Kebabi, its lanes also boast of Shahi Gelawati Kebabs from the a number of chaat (savoury famous Tunde Kebabi’s shop at snacks) shops. At the junction Chowk, in old Lucknow. The of Nazirabad and Aminabad kebab riot was started by Haji market is the famous Prakash’s Murad Ali who, it is said, fell Kulfi (sweet thickened milk with off the roof and lost an arm and pistachios frozen into icecream) was hence called Tunde (Tunde shops and numerous namkeen or a one armed man). Though (salty snacks) shops line up the original shop is religiously the main thoroughfare. During thronged by food afi cionados, winters these shops are stocked Anil Mehrotra Siddarth Kak commercialization has crept in with rewri, til (sesame) ladoos and Tunde’s kababs can now be and gazak (winter savouries had at various malls and other popularly known to ward off up-markets locations in the city. winter chill). Opposite to Tunde For discerning tastes one has is a narrow, dingy lane leading to intimate whether one desires to Alamgir Restaurant serving out kebabs of Bade ka or chotte ka. of the world fare of Boti Kebab Bada (literally large) refers to and roomali roti. The ambience the size of the animal and hence may not be modern but the would signify beef and Chota preparations are ‘fi nger licking is small and hence mutton from good’. And lest I may be blamed goat or sheep. The recipe, a for being partial to the non- closely guarded family secret, vegetarians there is the macabre consists of hundreds of spices sounding Purani Qabar wali and is claimed to be good for Dukan offering the most crisp digestion! Poori and Kachauri Alu (a fried snack with potato preparation).

Nearby is Ajmeri Gate, where Anil Mehrotra Siddarth Kak Chowk and Nakkhas markets Succulent Mutton Chops (top) and Tandoori Chicken in a roadside eatry Wahid Biryani – a 55 spices secret (top) and Tunde Kebab – legacy of a one armed cook Shiv Restaurant at Kaiserbagh, come together. In its bylane a short distance away from called Thandi Sarak is Rahim’s Gali also known as sheermal Also at Gol Darwaza exists complete without tasting Namish Nawabs and my friend, Namish Aminabad serves the thick, Nihari shop. Set up in mid gali. Saffron, originally used to Raja’s Thandai (cooling spiced or Malai Makhan (souffl é was part of the regular fare and sweet, curd drink Lassi topped nineteenth century by Haji Abdur impart the distinctive orange milk beverage) shop a glass of like creamy delight) at Gol savored with taftan – a saltish with dry fruits which fi lls you Rahim his gilafi kulche (very colour has now been replaced which is guaranteed to quench Darwaza. Available only during roti. Its metamorphosis into its up for hours. A little distance soft leavened bread) and nehari by synthetic colours. Close-by, the most parched soul. Those winters, the uniqueness of this dessert avatar is a much later away at Novelty crossing is the khaas (special beef/lamb trotters) in Ban Wali Gali is Ram Asrey’s desirous can also ask for lacing dish-cum-dessert lies in the development. Produced by Sharma Chaat House and Tea are worth dying for. For the over three centuries old sweet their glass with Bhang (cannabis) fact that it is not found in any placing whipped milk under the corner being run by two Sharma orange coloured sheermal (rich shop known for its lal-pedas for that additional kick. other part of the country. As open sky where the inter-play brothers. The tea corner does fl at bread made of fl our, milk fat (milk thinkened into chewy fl at, per Nawab Mir Zafar Abdullah, of night-dew produces the most roaring business selling tea and saffron) we visited Chawal Wali round sweets). No visit to Chowk can be a direct descendant of the soft, lighter than any French bun-makhan (bun and butter)

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 46 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 47 and has been doing so as far as I LIC building in centre of At the GPO end of Hazratganj can remember. Hazratganj, tables are being set and short of Raj Bhawan up as people line up to have Come evening and the Jains set (Governor House) is the well up their Chaat stalls at Novelty the crunchiest of Batashas known Dahi bade walla (lentil crossing, vying in taste with (a paper thin wheat preparation balls fried and dunked in sweet Sharma. Both have their loyalists fi lled with spiced liquid) with curd and chutney). The shop, who would swear for their six different types of Paani. more of a kiosk actually, opens respective brand of Chaat. For The clientele consists of at 2 pm on all days except me, however, it is either King of regulars for whom a round of Mondays and by evening there is Chaat or Shukla, both located batasha (Gol Gappa in Punjab/ nothing left. The swirling crowd in the upmarket Hazratganj. Just Delhi and Paani Poori in outside the bright green painted outside Halwasiya Market, also Kolkatta) after an evening stroll kiosk can provide food for in Hazratganj, is the Matarwala is a must. thought to any MNC food chain. selling a patta (a bowl made And beyond in the swanky Much later, as the evening starts with dried and compressed Cantonment in the ubiquitous Anil Mehrotra melting into night and traffi c Siddarth Kak Banyan leaves) of tastiest of Sadar Bazaar is Chappan Bhog lights and cops cease to matter matar (boiled and mashed peas) selling the best of sweets and the crowd outside the vintage Delectable desserts – Zauk-e-Shahi (above) betel leaves are brought-in from probably since this world came chaat. and Makhan Malai (above right). Moti Mahal queue up for the A meal in Lucknow is not complete as far away as Kolkatta, Varanasi, into existence. So famous has he without a paan (right). Hamirpur and Mahoba. Prepared become that he is now known deliciously creamy kulfi , hot, At the China Gate (Press Club) just off the wok imarti (sweet end of Lucknow’s Mahatma with nafasat (refi nement) for the stuff that he churns and almost to the point of sinning, deep-fried snack), gajar ka Gandhi Road, under the very bordering on reverence and sells. the fl avours of Awadhi street halwa (gajrella in Punjab/Delhi, shadow of the starred Gemini laced with the choicest of food are here to be enjoyed in At the proverbial stone’s grated carrot cooked in milk and and Clark’s Awadh Hotels is fl avourings, nuts, condiments all its nuances. The tanginess throw from Shukla’s, opposite topped with dry fruits), gulab Lucknow’s food street of the and scented tobaccos (for those of chicken kalimirch (black jamuns or hundreds of other drive-in variety. Biased heavily who desire), sprinkled with Kachauri – a fried snack (below) and pepper) blends with the subtle rosewater and gulkand (rose making of a refreshing cup of tea (right). varieties of sweets. in favour of non-vegetarians fragrance of fresh coriander leaves marinated in sugar syrup) and cumin seeds of Dal it is offered with utmost grace.

Tadka. Aromas from dum Siddarth Kak A blue blooded Lucknowite is pukht biryanis, chops, tikkas, likely to see red if after his meal mussallam, rogan josh, kebabs, and stuffed, pooris and naans... he doesn’t visit his favorite paan chicken marinated and roasted The list is endless. shop which can be any where in to perfection, boti kebabs, butter the city. chicken and numerous other Muskuraiye Ki Aap Lucknow Is it any wonder that the poet mouth watering varieties vie Main Hain (Smile, now that you has said: for attention with fi sh chatpati, are in Lucknow) is how a visit to kali dal, paneer kali mirch Lucknow is supposed to be. And Aye Shehar-e-Lucknow tujhe and its several variants. The for a perfect smile you ought mera Salaam hai; gastronomical spread cannot to have a paan (betel) without Tera hi naam doosra Zannat ka be said to be completed as which no meal in Lucknow can naam hai... they are to be wolfed down be said to be complete. And (O Lucknow I salute you for with a mind boggling variety there are paan shops galore, being the other name of Heaven) of complimentary breads viz each a favourite of someone, Tandoori roti, roomali, kulche, some where. As the discerning The author is a noted travel writer. bhature taftan, phulke, parathas clients are fastidious regarding Anil Mehrotra Siddarth Kak and its variants of laccha, varki types of leaves, various types of

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 48 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 49 Signaling a new trust on an issue that had shadowed their ties earlier, the two sides inked three treaties on mutual legal assistance in criminal matters, mutual transfer of convicted prisoners, and cooperation in the fi ght against international terrorism, organised crime and illegal drug traffi cking. The two sides took important steps to improve connectivity, including a decision on starting a rail link between Akhaura in Bangladesh to Agartala in India. They also decided to declare Ashuganj in Bangladesh and Silghat in India as ports of call. Reciprocating India’s warmth and resolve to walk the extra mile to put bilateral ties on a new footing, Sheikh Hasina said Bangladeshi territory would not be used for anti-India activities by insurgents from northeastern states. However, it is clear that more needs to be done on the security front though a beginning has indeed been made. In a sign of transforming relations, India also acceded to a long- Looking back in history: India’s late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi walks with the founding father of Bangladesh Sheikh Mujibur Rahman at a dinner party she hosted for him in pending demand of Dhaka by allowing road and rail transit between April 1974, one year before he was assassinated along with several members of his family. Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan. Sheikh Hasina agreed to open up the Twenty-six years later, his daughter Sheikh Hasina visited New Delhi as Prime Minister to take forward the relationship with India. Bangladesh ports of Mongla and Chittagong for transit of goods by India as well as Nepal and Bhutan. The camaraderie was in full fl ow at the state banquet the Indian A new spring in Prime Minister Manmohan Singh hosted for the Bangladeshi leader.

India-Bangladesh Ties The Prime Minister of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh, Mrs. Sheikh Hasina, inspecting the guard of honour at the ceremonial reception at Rashtrapati Bhavan, in New Delhi on January 11, 2010. MANISH CHAND

n the misty chill of Delhi’s fi erce winter, India and Bangladesh heralded a new spring in their bilateral ties. Taking inspiration from Ithe unity themes in the works of Rabindranath Tagore and Kazi Nazrul Islam, the two iconic poets of the subcontinent, Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and Bangladesh leader Sheikh Hasina Wajed on Jan 11 took pathbreaking steps to bring their countries closer in the joint task of confronting terrorism and building a new future around three Ts – trade, transit and transport. In the fi rst state visit hosted by India in 2010, Prime Minister Manmohan Singh announced $1 billion line of credit to spur the economic transformation of Bangladesh. The aid could be crucial in addressing Bangladesh’s burgeoning infrastructure needs and helping Sheikh Hasina realise what she calls Vision 2021, which aims at transforming Bangladesh into a middle- income country by 2021. India also agreed to supply 250 MW of electricity through its central grid and inked a memorandum of understanding (MoU) on expanding power cooperation that will include building inter-grid connectivity.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 50 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 51 The high-profi le guests, water and energy security to our particularly Bengalis, raved peoples”. about the delicious hilsa bred in Sheikh Hasina’s four-day visit to Bangladesh’s Padma river. India scored in both substance Sheikh Hasina spoke movingly and atmospherics. about six years she spent in exile in India after her father, The bilateral relationship has the legendary Bangabandhu been on an upswing since Sheikh Sheikh Mujibur Rehman, was Hasina and her secular allies assassinated in 1975. swept the December 2008 polls. “Your visit will open a new The signifi cance of the visit, said chapter in our relations”, Wahiduddin Mahmud, Professor Dr. Manmohan Singh said of Economics at the University of warmly, stressing increased Dhaka, lies not in “terms of the collaboration to address number of agreements and MoUs “common challenges of climate signed; much more important is change, and assuring food, the expression of political will for cooperation”.

The Prime Minister of Bangladesh, Hiranmay Karlekar, Bangladesh Mrs. Sheikh Hasina with the Prime Minister, expert and author of Dr. Manmohan Singh (right) and at a delegation level talks in New Delhi on “Bangladesh: The New January 11, 2010. Afghanistan?”, hailed the results The President, Smt. Pratibha Devisingh Patil presenting the Indira Gandhi Prize for Peace, Disarmament and Development for 2009 to the Prime Minister of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh, Mrs. Sheikh Hasina in New Delhi on January 12, 2010. The Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh and the Chairperson, UPA, Smt. Sonia Gandhi are also seen in the picture.

of Sheikh Hasina’s visit, but India’s Bharti group has proposed neighbours”, The Daily Star said contended that there was no US$ 300 million to build its in an editorial. room for complacency if the telecom network and Meru Cabs But the two principal architects of process of win-win improvement along with Tatas are planning the ongoing transformation best had to be lasting. a transport service with 20,000 encapsulated the visit. Sheikh radio cabs in capital Dhaka. By taking bold steps to address Hasina said that she would not each other’s long-standing The Bangladesh media hailed the only work for “Sonar Bangla” (a concerns over terrorism, trade, visit. throwback to the golden era of bountiful and prosperous Bengal transit, transport and river water- “Prime Ministers Sheikh Hasina of yore) but also for lasting peace sharing, India and Bangladesh, and Dr. Manmohan Singh seem to in South Asia. are scripting a new chapter in be inspired by a higher call than their bilateral ties. mere diplomacy in dealing with Added Dr. Manmohan Singh: the bilateral relations between “This visit has opened a new On the economic and trade side the Bangladesh and India,” said chapter in India-Bangladesh opening of Demagiri-Thegamukh Financial Express. relations, refl ecting the true unity on the Mizoram border, of minds and hearts.” Sabroom-Ramgarh on the Tripura The summit between them “bears Border and border haats on the a mark of maturity in handling (Source: Indo-Asian News Service) Meghalaya border bodes well for the sensitive issues vital to the the North East states of India. mutual interest of both the

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 52 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 53 engineering marvel that heralds a new era in infrastructure Bandra-Worli Sea Link consolidation in the country. AN ENGINEERING MARVEL Ten years in the making, the bridge that was inaugurated recently has used nearly 40,000 tonnes of steel, 90,000 tonnes of concrete, Text: QUAID NAJMI weighs 270,000 tonnes and cost $327 million. The high-speed open Photographs: N.K. SAREEN eight-lane carriageway, which is nine metres above the surface of the water, rests on two main towers, each equivalent to a 43-storey t rises out of the blue grey waters with its two main towers building, and 180 steel piers to weather the rough waves. disappearing into the low slung monsoon clouds and stretches for 5.6 km to connect two busy points of India’s fi nancial hub The two main towers connecting the cables that hold up the I bridge rise in a gigantic but perfect ‘Namaste,’ the traditional Indian Mumbai through the Arabian Sea. India’s fi rst open sea bridge, called the Rajiv Gandhi Bandra-Worli Sea Link, is a cable-held greeting. It also has two cable bridges, one 500 metres long on the northern side and another Rs.50 and Rs.100 per trip Overwhelmed by the 350 metres long on the southern (about $2) depending on the compliments pouring in from side, to allow the passage of size of the automobile. all over the country is the fi shing boats below. unassuming BWSL Chief Engineer Regardless of the toll, residents S.M. Sabnis of the Maharashtra The bridge – which was are thrilled with the latest State Road Development conceived way back in 1963 – infrastructure wonder that Corporation (MSRDC). encompasses some of the most curves one kilometre away from modern security systems, shore and cuts out so much of “We have done our b-est and including electronic eyes on the their drudgery. are happy that everybody top and underneath. has liked it. It has been a Mumbaikars, who drove up and tremendous morale-booster for The project involved some down the bridge with the angry my entire team,” said Sabnis. 3,000 professionals from 11 Arabian Sea waves lashing at it countries, including China, on both sides on the fi rst day, Sabnis said that the new link Egypt, Singapore, Thailand, and returned awe-struck. between the southern island even Serbia and Switzerland. city and the northwest suburbs “It has been an unreal would last for over a century Beyond the fi gures and the experience, better than the with proper maintenance. technical expertise, however, best we could have imagined. He said it could withstand is the sheer ease that it has The drive is not only pleasant, earthquakes of very high brought to the lives of millions it transports you to a different intensity and stormy gales of of Mumbaikars, as the residents destination,” said management over 125 km per hour speeds, of the city are referred to, by professional Venkat Iyer. the maximum on this stretch of cutting down driving time. “I was born in the city and have the Konkan coast. The eight-kilometre distance seen it grow and develop in the Even the highest recorded between suburban Bandra and past four decades. The bridge waves of six metres would not Worli, in the central part of has completely fl oored me, the disturb traffi c movement on the the city, which used to take beautiful approaches on both carriageway, Sabnis explained. 60-90 minutes to cover during sides, the majesty of this great the morning-evening peak city zooming past... It is most Sabnis and his team are hours, can now be completed in impressive,” added investment now focused on completing fl at six-eight minutes. consultant Nigam R. Pandya. the remaining 20 percent of work, on the second four-lane Bypassing 23 signals that Businessman Pratap S. Bohra, carriageway. “Then, traffi c commuters have to presently who lives in suburban Juhu, movement will be greatly endure, it is a new alternative said he had long abandoned enhanced on all the eight to the existing Mahim Causeway his offi ce in the central business lanes that make up the bridge,” where daily traffi c volumes district of Nariman Point in he said.

had exceeded 1.4 million downtown Mumbai on account (Source: Indo-Asian News Service) vehicles, leading to massive of the time wasted in the traffi c. traffi c snarls, especially during “We kept hearing about the sea peak hours. link. Now that it is ready, I am Authorities hope to see some seriously planning to attend my 150,000 vehicles use it each day offi ce in south Mumbai,” said for a toll that ranges between Bohra.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 56 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 57 Automobiles

I V Rao, managing executive experienced designers, making it offi cer (engineering), MSIL, diffi cult to execute new projects. DESIGNED TO WIN succeeded in his mission – eight The newly-recruited global Detroit-based auto engineers, designers would help the auto- ANNAMMA OOMMEN specialising in auto design, maker in grooming in-house styling and modelling, and engine designers and transferring know- development and manufacturing, The Indian automotive industry is attracting global design how, adds Rao. talent, as leading companies are hiring expatriate have now been taken on MSIL’s rolls. Some of the engineers and Other Indian auto-makers designers to help them launch a rash of new models, designers from the US are of including Tata Motors, Mahindra even as some domestic giants have acquired international Indian-origin and were eager to & Mahindra, Bajaj Auto and auto design fi rms. grab the Maruti offer. Royal Enfi eld, are also in talks with international auto designers According to Rao, the as they launch ambitious drives international design talent that the to expand their in-house design company is tapping into would capabilities. help it launch innovative new models and also help train its Many international auto designers engineers. “For a long time, we have also been visiting India had limited resources,” points out in recent months, interacting Rao. “We would get new designs with top executives of domestic from Suzuki and the testing and automobile majors. These development would be done designers have expertise in here. We had less number of design and model-making

ndia’s rapidly growing automobile sector is on the look-out for international design talent, with several top auto-makers hiring Idesigners and engineers from different parts of the globe in recent months. Unlike the US, where the auto industry has been facing a crisis, India’s two-wheeler and four-wheeler industry is on a roll with record sales being registered in fi nancial year 2009-10. Top professionals, including designers, engineers and researchers, who see tremendous possibilities for growth in the burgeoning automobile sector in India are willing to relocate to the country on medium- and long-term assignments. A top executive of Maruti Suzuki India Ltd (MSIL), the country’s largest car-maker, was in Detroit earlier this year, meeting designers and engineers in Motown, and urging them to relocate to India.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 58 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 59 “We are looking at launching electronic fuel injection models in India,” says Padmanabhan. Royal Enfi eld hopes to sell about 50,000 AIMING bikes this year. According to V G Ramakrishnan, FOR THE X PRIZE senior director, automotive and transportation sector, Frost & ata Motors, which took environment and provide say the organisers of the Sullivan, the new focus on the Tthe global auto industry exception levels of customer contest. “This progress is role of design refl ects the aim of by surprise with the launch satisfaction. needed because today’s oil the Indian auto companies to tap of the Nano, has made it to consumption is unsustainable global markets. “It is with this vision that we the new, narrowed down and because automotive have entered the Progressive The change in the global auto list of 43 contestant teams emissions signifi cantly Automotive X prize manufacturing landscape, for Progressive Automotive contribute to global warming competition with the Indica following the downturn in the X Prize. and climate change.” Vista EV-X in the Alternative US and Europe has also triggered There were nearly a hundred class,” points out a company The organiser of the contest, off a ‘reverse brain-drain,’ with many designers seeking work teams in the original list of statement. the X Prize Foundation, is best contestants for the $10 million known for its Ansari X Prize, in India and China. Pininfarina, prize – including established The contest aims to inspire which saw the fi rst manned the legendary Italian auto design fi rm, is also on the look-out for a car-makers and even a new generation of viable, private space fl ight about fi ve white knight to rescue it from the engineering students from super fuel-effi cient vehicles years ago. The foundation is ongoing crisis. There was talk of that offer more consumer Cornell Univeristy – who have also sponsoring contests in relating to hybrids, engines and an Indian auto major acquiring choices. The $10 million prize ❛❛ to develop next-generation genomics, healthcare and a transmissions. the fi rm, but with many of the green vehicles. The teams will be awarded to the teams moon landing. We had limited resources. top designers having quit the that win a stage competition Two-wheeler giant Bajaj Auto submitted a list of over 50 “The teams and vehicles We would get new designs Italian design house, there seems for clean, production-capable recently hired Edgar Heinrich vehicles. represented in this group (of from Suzuki and the little interest in the deal. vehicles that exceed 100 from BMW Motorcycles to head Tata Motors, which has 43 contestants) are the most development would be miles per gallon or energy its design function. “The world Design aspects such as proto- been at the forefront of viable in our competition equivalent (MPGe). The has woken to the paradigm done here. typing and clay-modelling, innovation, attributes and we believe that together shift in the Indian automobile which typically used to be major focus is on effi ciency, ❜❜ the spirit of ‘questioning they are positioned to industry, with out-of-the box done out of France, the UK and safety, affordability, and the the unquestioned’, for make a huge impact on the designs playing a vital role,” I V Rao, Italy, are now being executed environment. Managing Executive Offi cer, MSIL encouraging it to participate automotive marketplace,” points out Heinrich. The Pune- by many automobile fi rms in headquartered company has been India itself. And both domestic in the Progressive Automotive “It is about developing says Peter Diamandis, CEO engineering from the University launching a slew of new motor- and international auto fi rms X Prize. The company aims real, production-capable and Chairman, X Prize of Pittsburgh, Padmanabhan cycles to take on the challenge are investing signifi cantly, both to develop cars that are cars that consumers will Foundation. The winner of had worked with the advanced posed by international majors in terms of investments in more fuel effi cient, cleaner, want to buy, not science the contest will be announced engineering team of General including Harley-Davidson, who technology and human resources, Motors in the US, served in the with minimum impact to the projects or concept cars,” in September 2010. are poised to enter India. in design centres in India. DaimlerChrysler Mercedes car Royal Enfi eld brought in Venki division and was managing While GM and Chrysler have Padmanabhan as chief operating director South East Asia global R&D centres in Bangalore, offi cer this year to handle design sourcing operations for Chrysler Renault has a design centre in and product development. before being picked up by Royal Mumbai. These design and R&D With a doctorate in industrial Enfi eld. units not only do India-specifi c

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 60 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 61 projects, but also work for the high-tech, glamourous car bodies parent companies. to serve as the main differentiator. “The basic objective of setting Indian auto companies are keen up a full-fl edged India design to buy out global design houses studio was to learn from Indian in a bid to produce contemporary designers and the market about products, upgrade their R&D ‘DREAM COME TRUE’ local tastes and preferences,” and also become more globally points out Jean-Philippe Salar, competitive through better FOR AUTO ENGINEERS, DESIGNERS chief designer and head, Renault management of costs. Design India. According to him, Renault’s design studio of 16 Utility vehicle major Mahindra & aruti Suzuki India Ltd, building the R&D capability According to Nakanishi, persons operates as a satellite Mahindra recently acquired the Mthe country’s largest of Maruti Suzuki, and enable the project “will be a to the parent studio in Paris. “In business of G.R. Grafi ca Ricerca auto-maker, is putting up a us to offer superior products dream-come-true for Indian the last 30 months, this studio Design Srl (GRD), an Italian auto sprawling, 700-acre high-tech to our customers in the engineers and automobile has handled end-to-end design designing, body-engineering and R&D complex at Rohtak in future as well,” says Shinzo designers.” The ambitious for the Indian market and is now feasibility and styling company Haryana. The new facility Nakanishi, Managing Director outlay for the Rohtak project capable of working on global based out of Turin. With this will emerge as a global R&D and CEO, MSIL. According to highlights the growing `India- projects for Renault,” he adds. acquisition M&M intends to develop a global design centre hub for small cars for Japan’s him, Osamu Suzuki, Chairman focus’ by the Japanese auto Some Indian auto majors have for the group and cater to global Suzuki Motor Corporation of the Japanese auto major, giant towards making Maruti also started acquiring global auto OEMs. (SMC). had six years ago promised Suzuki the R&D hub for small design companies. A series of equity partnerships between “The synergies resulting from this The Rohtak project, estimated that MSIL would be made the cars outside Japan, he adds. local companies and global fi rms acquisition will not only help us to cost about US$ 325 million, R&D hub for Asia, outside The Rohtak facility is also the Japan. in the past few months have strengthen our existing design will feature a crash test latest of a series of big-ticket underscored the importance of capabilities, but will also help us facility, emission labs, wind With the allocation of 700 investments by MSIL, which this aspect of the automobile emerge as a global auto design tunnel testing, durability acres of land for MSIL by the has made Haryana a global industry, as a worldwide power house,” explains Pawan testing facilities as well as Haryana government recently, manufacturing hub. For its consolidation wave prompts Goenka, president, automotive performance evaluation “we have taken a step further latest global model, the ‘A facilities for components. The in realising this promise,” he star’, SMC has chosen MSIL as Rohtak complex will augment avers. The sprawling complex the sole manufacturing base the full vehicle design and will feature a dedicated, for its global requirement. development capability of 100-acre suppliers’ park for The decision to induct Maruti Suzuki, which is on vendor companies. The test designers from the US at course to design a car on its tracks are expected to be its facility in India refl ects own and launch a made-in- ready during the fi rst phase the confi dence of MSIL in India car by 2012. by 2012 and the overall R&D designing cars for global “The facility in Rohtak would facilities will be completed by markets. be a big step forward in 2015.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 62 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 63 sector, M&M. “Complementary Adds Dilip Chhabria, managing capabilities between Mahindra director, DC Design: “The current and GRD will enhance the The world has woken to the move of Indian OEMs acquiring product development capabilities, paradigm shift in the Indian front-end design capability IN TOP GEAR provide a solid European automobile industry, with is more in the nature of off- footprint for M&M to leverage outof-the box designs playing shoring.” technologies and skill sets by a vital role. S D Pradhan, CEO, Argentum Auto sales in India have Mahindra & Mahindra, Fiat, – expanded by 10 per cent harnessing the talent pool of Engineering Design – which was designers and engineers.” revved up dramatically in BMW and Audi have launched in September 2009, to 1.09 set up by B V R Subbu, former recent months, as consumers several new models in recent million, as against 990,000 As global auto manufacturing Edgar Heinrich, India chief of Hyundai Motors splurge on the new models months. units a year earlier. capabilities shift to Asia, design Design Head, Bajaj Auto – says the fi rm has positioned that have been launched by Overall vehicle sales For the fi rst half of 2009-10 fi rms are setting up offi ces in itself as a contract designer manufacturers. – including cars, two- fi scal (April-September), total India to focus on back-end to prototype manufacturers. operations, post the ideation Argentum has tied up with According to the Society wheelers, three-wheelers vehicle sales grew by 14.51 costs are getting commoditised. stage. Many global design Dassault Systemes, a French of Indian Automobile and commercial vehicles per cent to 5.78 million units. Says Arun Jaura, head, R&D, houses have also seen declining software major, to provide Manufacturers (SIAM), auto Eaton Corporation, a diversifi ed business, partly as automobile power-train solutions to various sales surged by 21 per cent IN THE FAST LANE manufacturers have moved more industrial group: “Indian OEMs companies. in September 2009 to 129,000 Segment April-Sept ‘08 April-Sept ‘09 % change design work in-house. A growing are committed to building units, as against 107,000 capabilities and acquisition of As the Indian automobile number of these fi rms are now industry presses hard on the units in September 2008. Passenger vehicles 779,217 884,118 13.46 design houses in developed prepared to sell equity stake in accelerator and speeds on the Thirteen of the 16 automobile Commercial vehicles 221,685 220,529 -0.52 economies seems to be the fastest their businesses in the hope of fast lane, design and research manufacturers reported an revving their fortunes. way. With the engineering talent Three-wheelers 184,934 207,809 12.37 pool in short supply, global and development will feature increase in sales during the prominently in its overall strategy month. Two-wheelers 3,864,443 4,470,464 15.68 Design will be the differentiator OEMs and suppliers will set up in the globalised environment, captive design centres in India to emerge as a global leader. Total 5,050,279 5,782,920 14.51 Leading automakers including since performance, quality and and other developing markets.” (Source: India Brand Equity Foundation) Maruti Suzuki, Tata Motors, Source: Society of Indian Automobile Manufacturers (SIAM)

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 64 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 65 One Hundred Years of The Indian Institute of Science Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata Maharaja of Mysore Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV Morris W Travers P. BALARAM behalf, and Lord Curzon the Bangalore, generously donated The Institute began with only he Indian Institute of Science (IISc) was conceived as a Viceroy of India, whose fi rst by the Maharaja of Mysore two departments: General and ‘Research Institute’ or ‘University of Research’ by Jamsetji task on arrival on December in March 1907. Indeed, the Applied Chemistry and Electro- TNusserwanji Tata, in the dying years of the 19th century. A 31, 1898 was to receive a contribution from the princely Technology. The fi rst Director, long period of almost thirteen years was to elapse from the initial draft proposal prepared by state of Mysore was the decisive Morris W Travers began the conception in 1896 to the birth of the institute on May 27, 1909. the Provisional Committee set element in determining the task of organizing the Institute The early history of the Institute is a fascinating chapter in the up to plan the establishment location of J.N. Tata’s proposed shortly after his arrival in India story of higher education and scientifi c research in India. The of the Institute. The plan was institution. Remarkably, in at the end of 1906. Travers cast of characters in the drama that led to the establishment of shepherded through many a gesture unmatched in the began the construction of the the Institute includes, in addition to its charismatic and generous diffi cult years by Burjorji annals of private philanthropy main building, which is one of founder J.N. Tata, fi gures from the pages of Indian history. Padshah, a close associate in India, Tata did not wish Bangalore’s landmarks today. There is Swami Vivekananda, whom J.N. Tata befriended on his of J.N. Tata. Unfortunately, his name to be associated The Departments of Organic famous voyage to the United States, the Maharaja of Mysore, J.N. Tata died in 1904 unaware with the Institute. His dream Chemistry and Biochemistry Shri Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV and his mother then acting on his that his vision would indeed was to create an institution were among the earliest to be realized a few years later. that would contribute to the be established. The Physics When the British Government development of India. The Department came into being in fi nally issued the Vesting name, Indian Institute of 1933, when C.V. Raman became Order in 1909, an unmatched Science, which was fi nally the fi rst Indian Director of the experiment in higher education chosen, refl ects in every Institute. In the century that has and research was launched way the wishes of J.N. Tata. passed since its inception, IISc in India. IIsc is truly the fi rst Visitors to Bangalore who has grown to become India’s example of a public-private seek out IISc still have to ask premier centre for research partnership in this country; an local residents for directions and postgraduate education institution, whose evolution to the ‘Tata Institute’, a clear in science and engineering. over a century is testimony recognition that Jamsetji Tata’s Several new areas of research to the robustness of its act of generosity has remained have been established, many of foundations. undimmed in public memory, them for the fi rst time in India. The Institute occupies nearly despite the passage of a The institute’s departments in 400 acres of prime land in century. fi elds ranging from Biochemistry

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 66 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 67 to Aerospace Engineering who was the Director of IISc Development (SID) promote have served to nucleate in the critical period 1939-48, collaborative interactions with research and development in during which much of the industry, while the Centre for both the public and private activity in engineering was Continuing Education (CCE) sectors. The faculty and alumni initiated at the Institute. Many provides an opportunity of the Institute have been of India’s most distinguished for working scientist and responsible for establishing scientists have been associated engineers to enrich themselves and spearheading many new with the Institute as students or academically. The institute’s institutions and programs across faculty. Notable among them Young Fellowships Program the country, refl ecting in a real are G.N. Ramachandran, Harish in Science and Engineering sense, a major development. Chandra, S. Ramaseshan, A. seeks to bring young students Homi Bhabha conceived Ramachandran, C.N.R Rao to the campus in summer. The the idea of the Tata Institute and R. Narasimha. Alumni of Institute also administers the of Fundamental Research the Institute head many major Kishore Vaigyanik Protsahan (TIFR) and an Atomic Energy organizations in India and Yojana (KVPY) program of the Program while working in the abroad. Department of Science and Department of Physics. Vikram Technology (DST) aimed at Sarabhai, the founder of India’s The Institute offers a variety encouraging students of Basic space program was an alumnus. of Master’s degree programs The Solid State Structural Chemistry Laboratory Sciences, Engineering and Following his premature death, in Engineering, an integrated Medicine to take up research the Indian Space Research (post-B.Sc.) program in Science amongst the best in India. A Integrated Systems. These careers in these areas. The Organization (ISRO) was built and Ph.D programs in a wide major program for modernizing programs are intended to blur Institute’s commitment to under the far-sighted leadership spectrum of disciplines in laboratories is underway, the traditional boundaries socially relevant research is of Satish Dhawan, who science and engineering. The catalyzed by a special grant between disciplines, thereby specifi cally emphasized by simultaneously held the position research laboratories at the provided by the Government promoting cross-disciplinary the activities undertaken at of the Director of the Institute Institute are well equipped. of India in 2006. The Institute research. An M. Tech program the Centre for Sustainable with the greatest distinction. Many national facilities are hosts hundreds of visitors from in Climate Science has also been Technologies (CST), together The fi rst Indian Institute of housed at the Institute. The India and abroad every year introduced. New centres in the with the Karnataka State Council Technology (IIT) at Kharagpur library and computational and is the venue for many areas of Earth Sciences, Climate for Science and Technology was established by J.C. Ghosh, facilities at the institute are major national and international Change and Neuroscience have (KSCST), which is housed on academic events. been established. The Institute the campus. hopes to foster collaborative The Aerospace Engineering Laboratory The face of science and The evolution of the Institute and interdisciplinary research in engineering research has over the past one hundred years a vigorous fashion in the years been changing very rapidly has mirrored the development to come. The Institute is also over the past few years. In of science and technology in committed to promoting post- approaching the second India. A long history, a strong doctoral research in the areas of century of the Institute many tradition of academic research science and engineering. new activities have been and ambience that favours initiated. Notable among them The Institute is engaged in scholarly activity have been are the interdisciplinary Ph. interactions with society and important elements in making D. Programs in Mathematical industry through a variety of the Institute a most attractive Science, Chemical Biology, outreach programs. The Centre place for students and faculty. Earth System Science, for Scientifi c and Industrial The author is Director, IISc, Bangalore. Nanoscience and Nanotechnogy Consultancy (CSIC) and the and Nanoengineering for Society for Innovation and

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 68 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 69 A unique experiment in Tele-Medicine

Tele-Ophthalmology provides a new hope in preventing infant blindness in rural India.

s of today, Retinopathy of in the country, screening (and Prematurity (ROP) is the treating) these babies especially Aleading cause of infant in the non-urban setting, is an blindness. According to the unmet challenge. WHO, middle-income countries To address this issue, Narayana such as India are believed to Nethralaya Postgraduate be in the midst of ‘the third Institute of Ophthalmology, epidemic’ of ROP. a leading tertiary eye care provider situated in The fi gures speak for Bangalore, has undertaken themselves. Over 27 million a unique experiment in live births are recorded in Tele-Ophthalmology over two India annually and over 8.4% years ago called “KIDROP” of these are low weight births (Karnataka State Internet below 2000 grams. Upto 47% Assisted Diagnosis of ROP). of these low weight births and premature babies share Under the leadership of over 7 districts of Southern to shift the baby to the city. “We are in the process of the deadly risk factors of Dr Anand Vinekar, who heads Karnataka to image these Over 80% of this has been done expansion. Some other states in potentially blinding ROP. Upto the Institute’s Pediatric Retina premature infants, and store, entirely free or at subsidized India as well as a few countries 15% of these may require department, trained technicians process and analyze these costs. Recently, the National in South-East Asia and Africa treatment. With less than 300 armed with a portable wide- images. Using an indigenously Rural Health Mission (NRHM) have evinced keen interest in retinal surgeons and less than fi eld digital pediatric retinal developed web based Tele-ROP has extended support to this our model”, said Dr Anand 20 pediatric retinal surgeons camera (Retcam Shuttle), travel platform, the technicians were project to include six more Vinekar. matched with ROP experts districts in Northern Karnataka. With increasing neonatal situated elsewhere validating survival, rural and semi-urban a unique model which has Since 2009,with the help of infants are as much at risk as obviated the need for the an indigenous company, their city based counterparts of physical presence of experts in i2i Tele-Solutions, the images developing ROP. At this point in the rural areas. acquired in rural areas are now time, Tele-ROP seems to offer being received on a specially the best option to meet the Thus far, over 2100 infants designed software application standard of care for these tiny from over 20 neonatal care on the Apple iPhone. The and precious citizens. centres, covering a radius of specialist can now provide live 350 kilometers have been diagnosis and a report using the Based on inputs provided by Narayana Nethralaya Postgraduate Institute of screened. Of these, over 230 GSM network further reducing Ophthalmology, Bangalore. have undergone sight saving the dependence on the variable (laser) treatment without having speed of the internet.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 70 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 71 IISc, Bangalore Stem Cell Lab, Narayana Nethralaya, Bangalore

Stem cells have been labelled stem cells to treat more than 85 the natural repair kit of the diseases is being undertaken. Stem Cells human body. The cells, collected India is catching up fast. from the umbilical cord blood TOWARDS A DISEASE-FREE TOMORROW at the time of birth, are the Though there are no estimates of building blocks of our blood and the size of the business, the stem RICHA SHARMA immune systems and have the cell banking business is growing potential to grow into any other rapidly with international With stem cell therapy clearly emerging as the treatment type of cells. They form the companies like Cryo-Save, for the future, India has joined a handful of nations white cells that fi ght infection, Cryo-Cell and Cryobank opening their branches in various parts of in banking on technologically advanced healthcare options red cells that carry oxygen and the country. for humankind. platelets that promote healing. “With a high birth rate (43 Stem cells present in bone million births a year), India ike all parents, Arvind cord blood cells of their babies marrow and umbilical cord can holds a huge market for the stem Tripathi, a schoolteacher in to give them a way to fi ght generate new cells throughout cell banking business. Though LIndia’s pink city of Jaipur, blood, genetic and immune our lives. Umbilical cord blood in a nascent stage, awareness wants to gift his unborn child system diseases for the rest of stem cells have been used about umbilical cord blood stem a disease-free future. As India their lives. over the years in an increasing cell banking is catching up fast walks the path of cutting-edge number of treatments including From 2001, when the fi rst in India,” says Mayur Abhaya, technology in healthcare, the leukaemia, malignant tumours, stem cell bank in India was president and executive director once unthinkable is actually blood disorders and red cell launched in the southern of Life Cell International. within grasp and Tripathi is disorders. city of Chennai by Reliance “To make people more aware planning to achieve his dream Life Sciences, now part of In the last few years, more than about the benefi ts, the company by banking his baby’s stem cells. the Reliance Group led by 10,000 patients in over 150 has tied up with several He will soon join the ranks of Mukesh Ambani, benefi ts of countries have been treated with gynaecologist associations in the 30,000 other parents in India the technology have percolated cord blood stem cell transplants. country. We are also teaming up who have banked the umbilical down to thousands of people. Currently, research in the use of with hospitals in the country to

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 72 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 73 Tribute

“In the case of a private stem cell bank, the client holds the right to retrieve or access the stem cells for his own use or by his family members for which purpose there is a periodic or one-time payment which he needs to make. These stem cells cannot be sold or transferred to third parties,” Abhaya said. As the stem cell revolution gains strength in India, researchers in the country are also marching ahead for the therapy that has the potential to radically change the treatment of human disease. The Centre for Cellular and

Stem Cell Lab, Narayana Nethralaya, Bangalore Molecular Biology in the southern city of Hyderabad is reach out to expecting mothers instalments) payment plans. collaborating with the Deccan and counsel them about the “A couple interested in storing Medical College for liver stem benefi ts of storing cord blood,” stem cells may contact the cell research and with the Abhaya said. company two months before L.V. Prasad Eye Institute for He estimates that the business scheduled delivery. Our growing cornea cells. is growing at a steady pace of counsellors will approach them The All India Institute for 25 to 30 percent per annum. and guide them about the Medical Sciences (AIIMS) Realising the huge potential in process. After 21 years, we will in New Delhi is developing stem cells banking business in charge a minimal annual fee to treatments using bone marrow India, European company Cryo- store it for a lifetime,” explained cells for spinal cord injury, heart Save launched its operations V.R. Chandramouli, managing tissue damage, diabetes, stroke, in India last December with director of Cryo-Save, India. peripheral vascular disease and an investment of Rs.10 million Leela Naidu Families that cannot raise the certain eye surface diseases. (approx $206,000). THE ENIGMA LIVES ON... money at the time of birth can The Armed Forces Medical Stem cell banking kits – which bank the cord blood in a public College (AFMC) in the western Text & Photographs: SMM AUSAJA include harvesting, processing bank and then arrange for it to Indian city of Pune has set and storage of cord blood – be transferred for exclusive use. up one of the biggest stem ot many actresses leave a mark with just a few fi lms in their range from about $300 to about Public stem cell banks operate cell research centres in Asia. lifetime. Leela Naidu had a spark that made her stand out $15,000 depending upon the like regular blood banks. It With stem cell therapy clearly Nin the fi lm industry – even though she was never a part of kind of facilities being offered. doesn’t cost anything to donate emerging as the treatment for the ‘top’ star bracket that usually identifi ed a popular actress in Though not extravagantly stem cells to a public bank the future, India has joined the the 60s. Launched in fi lms by the legendary fi lmmaker Hrishikesh priced, the facility is out of reach and the ownership of the cells rest of the world in banking on Mukherjee, Leela went on to do very few fi lms and yet managed for many Indians. To make doesn’t belong to the donor. The the best healthcare options for to win hearts across the country and form a loyal fan following it affordable to the average unknown recipient pays for the humankind. that lingers even decades after her debut. Born in 1940 to nuclear

salaried person, companies are stem cells when he fi nds suitable (Source: Indo-Asian News Service) scientist Dr Ramaiah Naidu (who hailed from Chittor, Andhra offering EMI (equated monthly matching stem cells. Pradesh) and his Swiss-French wife Marthe (who was herself an

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 74 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 75 indologist), Leela loved music of her best roles. The fi lm was and her mother would often a Hindi-English bilingual, based play her lovely lullabies and on Ruth Jhabwala’s novel of the French songs, often on the same name. Its Hindi dialogues piano. Hindi and English songs were written by Prayag Raaj, enchanted her on the radio. and Satyajit Ray had composed Polish composer Frederic the music. François Chopin’s music Leela worked in Ram Dayal’s infl uenced her most as she Baghi in 1964 opposite Pradeep crossed her fi fth year. She began Kumar – Vijya Chowdhry and learning the piano and also Mumtaz were also in the cast. became one of the youngest The fi lm however could not entrants to the Music Academy sustain itself at the box offi ce. in Geneva. Graduating from Her career in Hindi fi lms began music to dance, she even learnt Leela Naidu and Sunil Dutt in to wane after this fi lm. She was ballet at the age of eight. Her Yeh Raaste Hain Pyaar Ke, 1963 directed by seen in a guest appearance in grooming for dance happened R.K. Nayyar (above) and the cover of the soundtrack of Anuradha (right). Merchant-Ivory’s Guru in 1969, at the Institute of Eurhythmics. the year she married writer It was here that she also faced Dom Moraes, her childhood fi lms in 1960. Anuradha was the fi lm camera at the age of friend. Years later Leela Naidu a sensitive story that required nine during the fi lming of a returned to arc lights with a matured performance. Leela documentary. Shyam Benegal’s Trikaal, a surprised the critics with a brilliantly shot fi lm set in Goa. In 1950 she appeared in a play seasoned performance in Leela once again delivered a ‘Leela – the soul who wanted to the title role, and the fi lm memorable performance in this equal the gods’ at her Geneva went on to win the national fi lm which won two national school. One of her school award for Best Film. Its music awards. The last fi lm she did mates was so impressed with by Pandit Ravi Shankar still was Pradeep Krishen’s Electric her performance that he went delights the listeners. Her next playing an adulterous wife. Moon in 1992. In her entire on to feature her in one of his fi lm – Ummeed – was released The murder mystery was career she did very few fi lms, experimental fi lms ‘Birth of a in 1962. It was directed by the inspired by a famous court but the impact of her few Soul’ years later. This fi lm was legendary Nitin Bose. In fact case ‘K M Nanawati v/s State of performances is such that she is honoured at the Cannes fi lm Bose had triumphed a year back Maharashtra’ which had made still admired and respected as a festival. Leela continued to do with Gunga Jumna – a fi lm headlines across the country. formidable performer on screen. French and English plays in considered to be his best work. Though the songs composed by She died in Mumbai on 28th July her European schooling, while Leela shared the screen with Joy Ravi – ‘Yeh raaste hain pyaar 2009, leaving behind wonderful frequent trips to India kept her Mukherjee and Ashok Kumar in Oberoi who owned the Oberoi spiritualism under philosopher ke...’ and ‘Yeh khamoshiyan...’ memories of her roles to in touch with her roots. In 1954, Ummeed, while composer Ravi Leela shot to limelight by not Hotels chain. They had twin J Krishnamurti. soared at the charts, the fi lm millions of fans. daughters – Maya and Priya scored the music. only winning the coveted Miss Director Hrishikesh Mukehrjee couldn’t get much success at The author is a fi lm historian. India crown but also a rank Oberoi, but Leela’s marriage chanced upon Leela’s Yet another memorable role for the box-offi ce. The same year among the ten most beautiful ended in a divorce with her photograph and decided to Naidu came in 1963 with Sunil Leela was seen and admired women in the world, a listing husband getting the custody cast her in the title role of his Dutt’s ‘Yeh Raaste Hain Pyaar in Merchant Ivory’s The by Vogue magazine. Two years of the daughters. This setback forthcoming fi lm Anuradha Ke’ directed by R K Nayyar. This Householder as she played the later, Leela married 33 year old made her emotionally weak and opposite Balraj Sahni. Thus fi lm gave her the opportunity free spirited wife with such Tilak Raj Oberoi, son of Mohan vulnerable, and she turned to began her career in Hindi to stand out in her performance dedication that it remains one

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 76 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 77 Heritage Sports

The number ‘seven’ is sacred to the Manipuris, it represents the HOCKEY ON HORSE BACK seven ancestral clans of the people. Each player is outfi tted with a polo stick made of cane having a narrow angled wooden head MANIPURI’S TRADITIONS OF POLO fi xed at the striking end. The ball, 14 inches in circumference is Text: DEBABRATA BANERJEE made of bamboo root. The mounted players hit the ball into the Photographs: DILIP BANERJEE goal. Extremely vigorous and exhilarating, the game is played in two styles – the PANA or original Manipuri style and the he Manipuri name for Polo is Sagol Kangjei or Hockey on International style i.e. Polo. The ponies are also decorated fully Horse. The traditional game is played seven a side mounted with metal guards protecting the eyes, forehead, fl anks etc. The Ton ponies which are often not more than 4/5 feet in height. Manipuri polo fi eld measures 160 Sana-Lamjei by 80 Sana Lamjei,

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 78 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 79 a Sana-Lamjei being equal to 6 ft. The duration of a game depends on the preset number of goals to be scored by a side for a win. If the wining number of goals is not scored on the day, the game is continued into the next day! There are no goal posts in traditional Sagol Kangjei, the entire back line being the goal target. There are few rules in traditional Sagol Kangjei. The game is started by the Huntre Hunba or referee by throwing the ball high up in the air. A player is allowed to catch the ball in mid air, run and hit it with the mallet to score a goal. In mid-play a player can roll the ball from the ground up the mallet into his hands and score with mallet. Some semblance of a rule was imposed by the King Churachand Singh in 1928 when crossing the right of way and hooking of the opponents stick above the Pony’s height was prohibited. Although the royal patronage of the game has ended, the game is still played in its indigenous form. There are over 30 polo clubs in Manipur today and visitors are amazed by the massive crowds that turn out to witness the tournaments at the Imphal Polo Ground.

The author is a noted writer.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 80 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 81 Sacred Plants in Indian Lore...

PRAN NEVILE

Since time immemorial, certain trees and plants in India have been invested with divine attributes. The Hindus were taught to worship and revere them in the belief that it would infl uence their own personal well-being. Evergreen trees were regarded as symbols of eternal life. The groves in forests were looked upon as habitations of the gods...

he Banyan tree takes the pride of place amongst the sacred trees of India. It has aerial roots that grow down into Tthe soil forming additional trunks. It is, therefore, called Bahupada, one with several feet symbolising long life and also representing the divine creator Brahma. It is invariably planted in front of Hindu temples. Its numerous stems are even regarded as the home of gods and spirits. It was under a Banyan tree that

Hindu temples and the Banyan tree at Agouree on the river Soane, Bihar by Thomas Daniell, c. 1796 (below) and a Hindu woman performing a religious ceremony around the Tulsi plant by D.V. Dhurandhar, c. 1890 (facing page), courtesy V&A Museum, London.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 82 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 83 beneath its hallowed foliage. dangers and diffi culties. Among The most famous of these trees other virtues of the Tulsi are its is the sacred Peepul at Gaya medicinal properties. Its leaves under which Buddha sat when have a pleasing aroma and act he attained enlightenment. as a cough elixir. Leaves are Since then the Peepul tree is also eaten to help digestion also called the Bo or the Bodhi and prevent other maladies like tree. It is also believed to be a colds and chills. No wonder, symbol of fertility and women the Hindus deifi ed the plant for worship it for progeny. its numerous qualities. Fanny Pooja of the Tulsi by Fanny Parks c. 1830 Parks, the fi rst Indophile, writer The other sacred trees are the and artist makes a special Bilva or oak-apple and the Besides the sacred trees, there mention of the worship of the Asoka trees associated with are certain sacred plants too, “Toolsee” plant. She describes different deities. The Asoka notably the Tulsi plant which is the rituals and ceremonial tree is sacred to Kama, the found everywhere in sandy and ‘pooja of the toolsee’ and the god of love, and according to fallow lands. An ancient variety way it was planted in a number folklore, its buds will open up of the basil, Tulsi is considered of pillars hollowed at the top in full bloom when the foot of a to be the wife of Lord Vishnu in Benaras where the devotees young beautiful maiden touches and worshipped by the Hindus. walked around these pillars its roots. The Bilva with its three In homes, Tulsi is grown in pots pouring water on the sacred leaves resembling the Trishul, and worshipped daily. A mere plant. or the trident held by Lord touch of the plant is believed Darbha or Kusha is a sacred Shiva, fi nds mention in Hindu to purify the person and giving grass essential in all rituals. The sacred tree of the Hindus at Gyah, Bihar by Thomas Daniell, c. 1796 mythology. Its fruit is a blood a twig of Tulsi to anyone is This plant is found in damp purifi er. considered as a protection from the Hindu sages sat in trance In Hindu mythology, the tree marshy ground. It is rough to seeking enlightenment, held is called Kalapvriksha, the tree touch and pointed at the top. Women engaged in tree worship by William Carpenter, c. 1850, According to an old legend, it discourses and conducted that provides fulfi llment of courtesy V&A Museum, London. holy rituals. Some Banyan wishes and other material gains. was produced at the time of the trees reached a height of over The worship of the tree is also churning of the ocean by the 100 feet and more than a represented in Buddhist texts. gods and demons. It is also said thousand feet in circumference. Another great tree of India is the gods while drinking amrita No wonder, it is stated that ten the Peepul, found all over the or the nectar of immortality thousand men could be covered country. Known for its antiquity, shed some drops on this grass by a single tree. We come it fi nds mention in many Hindu which thus became sacred. across mention of the Banyan scriptures as a sacred tree There is a mention of it in the tree in many travellers’ account. whose worship is regarded as Hindu scriptures and the epics Bishop Heber (1825) was so homage to the Trinity – Brahma, and is used in various religious impressed by the sight of this Vishnu and Shiva. The tree is ceremonies, as it is believed tree that he exclaimed, “what also associated with the old to have the virtue of purifying a noble place of worship”. Vedic rituals of lighting the everything. Travellers’ tales even inspired sacrifi cial fi re with a twig of the The author is a noted writer. the great English poet Milton to Peepul tree. Every village has allude to the banyan tree in his its special Peepul tree and the Paradise Lost. village elders hold their councils

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 84 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 85 THE CHARMS OF THE Jaipur Literature Festival

Text: AMRIT DHILLON Photographs: TEAMWORK PRODUCTIONS

here are few women in the world busier than celebrity Manhattan editor Tina Brown whose latest venture is a Tnews website called “The Daily Beast” which gets 50 million hits a day but for two years in a row she has made it a point of taking out a week to attend the Jaipur Literature Festival. “I’m addicted to it. It’s the most wonderful gathering of the world’s top authors and the best Indian writers. It’s stimulating and fun,” she said while enjoying a hot spiced cider in Flow café located on the sprawling lawns of Diggi Palace, the faded but charming palace turned into a resort where the festival is held every January.

Nigerian Nobel Laureate Wole Soyinka Tina Brown with Vir Sanghvi of Hindustan Times

Before arriving in Jaipur, Ms Brown had been interviewed on Twitter by The Sunday Times in the UK. When asked what she was doing at that moment, she replied that she was having breakfast in a New York diner and looking forward to attending the festival.

“After Tatler, Vanity Fair and The New Yorker (all magazines that Ms Brown has edited) isn’t an Indian literature festival a bit low-rent?” her interlocuter asked.

She was withering in her reply: “What are you talking about? The festival has the world’s best writers. If that’s slumming it, I’ll do it every day.” Later, writing on The Daily Beast, she called it ‘the greatest literary show on earth’.

For the ‘Pink City’, the festival was once again a source of local pride as Wole Soyinka, Michael Frayn, Amit Chaudhari, Pavan Varma, Louis de Bernieres, Vikram Chandra, Alexander McCall Smith, Hanif Kureishi and nearly 200 other top authors kicked off fi ve whirlwind days of literary activity.

The festival’s origins, fi ve years ago, were exceedingly humble. “I read in a room full of dusty sofas with six persons sitting in the audience. When the slide projector failed, three of them left despite my begging them to stay,” related co-founder and British writer William Dalrymple, who has made his home in India.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 86 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 87 Two years later, in 2007, Dalrymple and the other founder, Namita Gokhale, got about eight to ten authors. Last year proved to be the tipping point when, suddenly, the festival became ‘big’, attracting 160 authors, 20,000 people and establishing itself as the biggest literary festival in India and Asia. The event prides itself on being the ‘most democratic’ book festival in the world with free entry for everyone and no special treatment for famous authors or celebrity visitors. Last year, fi lm star Julia Roberts visited (unrecognised) while Vikram Seth sat cross legged on the lawns to eat his dinner because there was no space at a table. There are no separate enclosures. The authors use the same toilets and eat the same food. Anyone, including the 200 local school children and students from Delhi who are invited, can buttonhole an author and engage him or her in conversation. This year, Nigerian Nobel prizewinner Wole Soyinka found himself dining with a bunch of wide-eyed schoolgirls. “He was telling us how to lead a good life and what it means to be a good human being,” said Asha Gupta, a Jaipur schoolgirl. British writer Hanif Kureishi found himself ambushed by schoolboys demanding his autograph. “I haven’t read his

A view of the evening gathering

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 88 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 89 novels but I’ve heard of him,” is with chandeliers and frescoed the winter than the sun shining said a delighted Nikhil Rathore, walls, could accommodate all in Jaipur?” Mr Dalrymple says 15 when an initially reluctant the Indians and foreigners – over that the idea of a festival in Kureshi relented. He added: “I 26,000 this year – who descend India fi rst occurred to him when have never in my life seen so on Diggi Palace. he used to attend festivals in many famous people.” other countries and would Much of the appeal of the fi nd celebrated Indian authors At this point, actor Om Puri, who festival lies in Diggi’s manicured everywhere, except in India. was promoting his biography, lawns and old world charm. As walked past, chased by a posse award-winning biographer, Claire Poetry readings and concerts of photographers and reporters, Tomalin, explained the art of lasted till past midnight with the and Rathore ran off to join them biography in a tent of vast pink, lawns overfl owing not just with to get Mr Puri’s autograph too. green, lime, yellow and magenta festival guests but with locals stripes, she was interrupted by curious to see the event that has At this festival, no matter how the neighing of horses tethered put their city on the literary map. famous you are, you have to nearby in the royal stables. “Jaipur is the perfect festival fend for yourself, whether it’s city,” said festival producer for a place to sit or to grab some “The festival still has the feel Sanjoy K. Roy. “It’s not just about food which is on a fi rst-come, Author Chetan Bhagat in a session with Meenakshi Madhavan, Ira Trivedi and Anjum Hasan of a group of friends putting (from left to right). books but about the music, fi rst-served basis. A frazzled and it together for a lark,” said colour and fun of Rajasthan.” lost-looking Michael Frayn, a Dalrymple. “The city itself is an The festivity is the best of singers from Bengal led by celebrated British playwright, attraction. What can be nicer in Every session offered something Rajasthan – colourful outfi ts Paban Das Baul, were equally was seen wandering around the and wonderful folk musicians popular. lawns looking for a chair. A performance by the Rajasthani folk musicians and dancers, brightly coloured As eclectic as ever, the music The same rules apply to marquees and turbaned men ranged from Sufi and Indian everyone. Dalrymple himself was serving masala chai in ‘khullars’ folk to Moroccan and popular ticked off by a guard outside or clay cups. fusion musicians such as Biddu the Full Circle book stall for The concerts in the evening Unplugged (Biddu was born in taking his coffee inside, against are an integral part of the India where he started his career the rules. Like an obedient festival. After a day’s intellectual playing in a pop band whose schoolboy, he obeyed. stimulation, visitors are eager to infl uences lay in the classical Unlike other big literature enjoy a rollicking good show and repertoire of the Beatles and the festivals which have become they were not let down this year. Rolling Stones). The grand fi nale hierarchical and money-making The audience went wild when – a Writers’ Ball with a sound machines, at Diggi Palace, the Susheela Raman, an acclaimed and light show – took place at atmosphere is relaxed, cheerful, British Tamil singer, gave them Jaipur’s famous Amber Fort. informal, and almost carnival-like a taste of the rich, bold voice But to come back to the daytime with large crowds milling around which won her a nomination activities, these are packed with day and night. Anyone, from for the 2001 Mercury prize for serious discussions on literature a journalist or diplomat to a her debut album, Salt Rain. Her in the marquees which attract student can buttonhole an author partner and guitarist Sam Mills enthusiastic audiences prepared or someone like actor Rahul also performed with her. In this to sit on the fl oor to hear the Bose who did a wonderful job performance of UK and Indian writers they love and admire. of moderating a discussion on music, Nathoo Lal Solanki, a adapting books into screenplays, classical Nagara player and folk These tents are put up on the and have a conversation with musician Chugge Khan also lawns because there is no way them or lunch with them. delighted the crowd. The Baul that the Durbar Hall, grand as it

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 90 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 91 new. Alexander McCall Smith, author of the hugely successful No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series, and a wonderful raconteur, treated the audience to some hilarious stories. In the Baitak tent, everyone was so absorbed in hearing Omprakash Valmiki speak about his childhood that no one noticed former Rajasthan chief minister Vasundhara Raje walk in and quietly sit down. On another day, a poetry session honouring the Pakistani Urdu poet Faiz Ahmed Faiz took place to commemorate his 99th birthday at which his daughter Salima Hashmi recited his poetry and spoke on his legacy. Fans of actress Shabana Azmi were thrilled to hear her talk about her mother’s book, ‘Kaifi and I’ in a conversation with Urvashi Butalia. If the festival continues to grow at its currently phenomenal rate, it will be diffi cult for Diggi Palace – which is already bursting at the seams and looks like a bombsite at the end of every day – to continue hosting it. If, perchance, this lovable, cuddly gorilla of a festival ends up moving to another venue, it just won’t be the same.

The author is a freelance journalist.

Susheela Raman and Sam Mills performing at the festival.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 92 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 93 Book Review

Quicker access to distant locations, larger disposable incomes Himalaya and rising lifestyle aspirations characterise the growing numbers of leisure seekers today. As with other locations, within the four VIEW FROM A CAMERA IN THE CLOUDS corners of India, the Himalaya presents extensive opportunities for a unique outdoor experience. This extends to winter as well when, SUDHIR SAHI for example, the frozen Zanskar turns to a white sheet, or Chadar, and briefl y allows winter access to the Zanskar valley. or many years now Ashok Dilwali has dexterously captured the facets of the Himalaya. As Dr MS Gill says in his Foreword, In the vastness covering this sprawling ampitheatre, lie high F“The mountains being a passion with Ashok, he simply wanted mountain passes, lakes and valleys, often rising above 20000 ft to to capture every mood and nuance of each ray of the sun, in all its the summits of the world’s most fascinating mountain faces. Access hues – over the snowy peaks...” by land is therefore usually feasible during summer when the high passes are clear of snow, usually from May to October. The fragile eco-system of the Himalaya arches across from the Indus to the Brahmaputra. To its south, as indeed to its north, it Ashok Dilwali has seen it all. But for him, the wonder of the faces threats on a magnitude not imagined before. Its impact on Himalaya never ceases, revealing to this day, the vestiges of its our life support systems is critical, bordering on extreme climatic great ethno-cultural cauldron. It is a region where mountain variation. It engenders the drainage basins of some of the world’s journeys to distant lakes resonate to the call of the brahmini duck, greatest rivers, plains and forests which are home to countless life the barheaded geese and the crested grebe. And on the fringe forms. of survival, in a barren rocky profi le, the sensitive visitor may

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 94 INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 95 chance upon the habitat of the most elusive and threatened of all predators, the snow leopard. Ashok has trodden on trading routes, trekking trails and grazing tracks that radiate in numerous directions. Many festivals that mark local lifestyles have been captured at altitude through his lens and passion. There is a message crying out from Ashok’s many frames. When the balance between natural processes is subjected to heavy pressure, the resultant damage can create positions where weather patterns and lifestyles are thrown out of gear. Burning of fossil fuels and the ensuing greenhouse effect has led to global warming while the use of non-biodegradable containers such as aerosols has dented the ozone shield, raising ultra-violet radiation. In the fragile eco-system of the Himalaya, this takes on a crucial dimension. Local communities become the motive force for sustainable practices, especially in the preservation of local traditions and habitats. While tempering the impact of the ecological footprint, this also creates the pressure point for an equitable local share in the economic benefi ts of ‘development’.

The author is a noted travel consultant.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES VOL 24 NO. 1/2010 96