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microclimate and . For example, in La Côte, the sub-region Kick’s picks: from the Lake Region between Geneva and , the are set back from the lake and Les Frères Dubois, De la Tour biodynamic grapes, harvested earlier Discover are planted on undulating Dézaley-Marsens Grand Cru, than usual, with only partial malolactic hillsides, similar-looking to 2015 91 fermentation. This allowed the those in . This area N/A UK www.lfd.ch freshness of the grapes to remain generally produces softer- This special is produced from the intact. Finishes fresh and saline. grapes and wines structured, more delicate domaine’s oldest vines. Aged on its Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12.5% wines with slightly lower lees for six months in 500-litre barrels, The stunning countryside in ’s Region has alcohols due to deeper soils then in a 45-year-old cask for 12 Domaine Henri Cruchon, Servagnin and less sun exposure. months. The resulting wine is Morges Grand Cru, La Côte 2015 89 won a reputation for wines offering a superb array of flavours and Lavaux’s dramatic reminiscent of a grand Savennières, N/A UK www.henricruchon.com south-facing, terraced with notes of lanolin, gunflint and Servagnin is the oldest stylistic nuances. Robin Kick MW introduces grapes and styles that slopes have poorer soils orchard fruits. Drink 2019-2038 clone in Switzerland and it is reserved with less earth, and profit Alcohol 12.5% only for producers in Morges. Poised may be unfamiliar but are well worth discovering from the sun being reflected and chiselled, this 2015 displays a wild from the lake, helping with Domaine du Daley, Le streak of spice and woodland ripeness. Its wines tend to be fuller, but Grand Réserve Villette Grand Cru, strawberries on the palate. Vinified eneva or Zurich may be Switzerland’s most beautiful regions. Chasselas, the king also more mineral and ageworthy. Its two Lavaux 2015 88 with a touch of whole clusters. better-known place names in Lavaux, its viticultural core, features The sheer viticultural diversity is jewels – Dézaley (54ha) and Calamin £32.99 Selfridges Drink 2019-2024 Alc 12.5% Switzerland, but the Canton of thousands of south-facing stone terraces. remarkable, as there are a total of 55 (16ha) – are Vaud’s only grand cru single From a drought , this 2015 Vaud (one of the country’s 26 Bathed in balmy breezes and fanned by grape varieties planted. While these vineyards. They sit nestled one above provides a nice contrast to Chasselas Badoux Vins, les Murailles Gfederal states) rides on their coat-tails. lakeside palm trees, these terraced include grapes borrowed from , the other and give a yin and yang from more classic years. Moderately Rouge, Chablais 2013 88 At its core lie Nestlé, Switzerland’s vineyards were recognised as a and elsewhere, as well as experience of Chasselas – Dézaley opulent with appealing notes of sweet £31.94 Alpine Wines second-largest company; the ‘Olympic Unesco World Heritage Site in 2007. crossings, hybrids and several native offering density and power, while pear, honeysuckle and pineapple. The red equivalent to the ’s City’ of Lausanne; and , home They were chiselled into its slopes species, the region’s grande dame Calamin is all lace and refinement. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12% iconic white, Badoux’s Aigle les to arguably the greatest jazz festival in starting in the 12th century by is Chasselas. Indigenous to the The semi-mountainous Chablais, Murailles Rouge has a quintessential the world. But around its buzz, there is Cistercian monks. Over area, this variety makes up 92% meanwhile, links Lavaux and Domaine La Colombe, Féchy Swiss feel, with notes of juicy black also calmness and beauty. The vineyards time, the network of of white plantings as well as neighbouring – the driest of Chasselas, La Côte 2016 88 cherries, liquorice and spice. A touch that blanket the slopes in front of Lake terraces grew, and today 60% of total plantings in Vaud. Switzerland’s wine regions. Though £19.90 The Sampler of Gamay, Garanoir and Gamaret add Geneva confirm that this is not just a there are more than 10,000 So dominant is Chasselas that Chablais’ vineyards are farthest from the A rounded and succulent Chasselas, an appealingly fleshy note to the region of industry, but of significant stone walls extending across the region’s second most lake, the warm foehn wind travels this wine was produced from palate. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 12.5% agriculture as well. 400km of the region. important white variety, the through the valley, concentrating the Vaud produces one quarter of all international , totals grapes. Its wines tend to be broad, nicely Swiss wine and is its second-largest wine only 1% of all plantings. concentrated and moderately powerful, crosses between Gamay and Despite the high quality, surprisingly only

region. Its vineyards frame most of the Neuchâtel Chasselas is unexpectedly with stony undertones. Reichensteiner, itself a white-skinned 1%-2% of Swiss wine is exported. Yet the northern half of Lake Geneva (known multifaceted. Sometimes gently Despite regional variations, winemaker German crossing. The latter pair were more one tastes, the more it becomes locally as Lac Léman). But its size is not spicy, round and occasionally waxy influence cannot be underestimated. created in 1970 by Agroscope, apparent why the Swiss would keep these Lake Morat its main feature: it is also one of like Pinot Grigio, with notes of orchard Traditionally, Chasselas was made to suit Switzerland’s renowned agricultural treasures for themselves. From its

Lake Neuchâtel fruit and citrus like Chardonnay, it Swiss tastes – with riper fruit, lower research facility, as varieties with greater -driven Chasselas to its fresh, often Estavayer-le-Lac Chasselas Sainte-Croix/Les Rasses feels familiar yet different. acidity, a touch of residual sugar and a natural resistance to fungal diseases than surprisingly fleshy reds, these are clearly Grandson Yvonand Catherine Cruchon of Domaine Henri little carbon dioxide to give some lift. Gamay, as well as deeper colour. wines worth discovering, be it here in Yverdon-les-Bains Cruchon in Morges further illuminates: However, change is in the air and While many of the region’s reds are Switzerland, or in any market where they ‘Chasselas has a unique profile because, Chasselas is becoming fresher, tauter blended to complement one another, can be tracked down. Romainmôtier to my knowledge, all other grape and drier: a welcome move for those some excellent examples can be Lake Joux Echallens varieties are built on at least two of the who are used to crisp, mineral- found as varietal wines in their Robin Kick MW is Le Sentier Vallée de Joux VAUD three components: alcohol, acidity and driven whites. own right. Both Plant Robert and a wine consultant, Oron Jura Gruyères aromatics. Chasselas is not strong in any Gamaret are particular successes educator and Morges Lausanne Lavaux one of these, yet it can produce Adventures in red and are worth seeking out. judge based in UNESCO Château-d'Œx remarkable wines. Moreover because it It’s not all Chasselas though, Plant Robert even has its own Switzerland. She Rolle Rougemont Rossinière is a neutral grape, it is an excellent with red varieties making up society of wine producers, St-Cergue Lake Geneva Gstaad formerly worked Montreux transmitter of terroir. If you take the time 34% of the Vaud’s vineyards. who originally came together at Christie’s in Los Col des Mosses Evian to get to know it, you will discover a The four most-planted varieties to rescue the biotype Angeles and as a Thonon nuanced spectrum of textures and are Pinot Noir, Gamay – including from near extinction: Gamaret Yvoire buyer at Goedhuis Aigle Les Diablerets structures. There’s no other variety like it.’ Plant Robert, a rare, ancient Gamay www.plant-robert.ch. & Co in London. Over the following six Villars With plantings of Chasselas so biotype that is fleshier, darker and Today, Vaud produces pages, she recommends unique wine Gryon widespread, it can reveal various more compact in texture – Gamaret some of the most exciting experiences, events and itineraries for

Lavey-les-Bains expressions depending on clones, soil, and Garanoir, two siblings that are Garanoir wines in Switzerland. wine lovers visiting Geneva

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