Mull’S West Coast, I Meet Other Equally the Boathouse on Ulva, Fisherman’S Catch, One of the Classiest Shellfish Enterprising Female Foodies
EXPLORE here can’t be many restaurants The Boathouse along with her sister-in-law notice that virtually all the businesses are run by in Britain where you have Rebecca. The shellfish that the restaurant is women. “Women here have the choice of low-paid, to hail a ferry to get there famed for is creel-caught off Ulva by Emma’s dead-end jobs or setting up their own business, by flashing a red card from two brothers who, like her, were raised on the so many decide to go for it,” says Rebecca. the opposite shore. But island (current population: six). I navigate the Back on Mull’s west coast, I meet other equally The Boathouse on Ulva, Fisherman’s Catch, one of the classiest shellfish enterprising female foodies. There’s Brighton- just off Scotland’s Isle of platters I’ve eaten, with its salty oysters, fresh raised Jeanette Cutlack, who makes her own Mull, is just such a place. I duly wave the card langoustines and squat lobsters (they look like haggis, which she serves with homecooked Tand, soon, I’m being whisked across a steely fat, curly, peeled prawns). The supporting acts, dishes in her front-room restaurant at Ballygown sea in a tiny launch to the black basalt rocks from homebaked bread and oatcakes to hand- (ballygownmull.co.uk). And Caroline Macphail, a on which the restaurant’s whitewashed croft wrapped butters, are terrific, too. dental nurse who, at weekends, runs a takeaway On the road: perches (theboathouseulva.co.uk). As we land, Having tried in vain on other Scottish islands van looking over Loch na Keal and, behind it, the whiskered head of an otter pops above the to nab local shellfish before the Spanish do, I’m Ben More, the island’s tallest peak (facebook.com/ water, checking out the new arrivals.
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