basics of maintenance 2014 smartTRIPS regional program

TABLE OF CONTENTS

The basics of bicycle maintenance

Overview: bicycle components & terminology 01

Ensuring your bike is safe to ride 02

Reparing a flat 03

Basic bike maintenance 05

Advanced repairs: shifting systems 06

Advanced repairs: brake systems 07

Importance of bike fit 09

Lock it, or loose it 10

smartTRIPS 1435 Water Street Kelowna, BC V1Y 1J4 Tel 250 469-8817 [email protected] smartTRIPS.ca THE BASICS OF BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

the basics

Did you know? On a round-trip commute of 16 kilometres, bicyclists save around $10 daily... Adults who bike to work have better weight, blood pressure, and insulin levels... In a 2011 community sur vey, Kelowna Bike commuters reported lower stress and greater feelings of happiness, relaxation, and excitement than car commuters. overview: bicycle components & terminology

Bicycle Typogram by Aaron Kuehn Please see http://aarline.info/hotaar/?p=1 for more details and a downloadable PDF.

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fit’ at the end of this guide to help you fine ensuring your bike tune your bike fit to ensure a comfortable is safe to ride ride. Wheels/ Frame Tires should be inflated to the specification Inspect all tubes for dents, bends, kinks or noted on the sidewall and should be checked cracks. Never ride a bike with a damaged monthly. Tire casing and tread should frame! Full suspension frames require not have any cracks or cuts. Rims should further inspection of moving pivots and the be free of dents, bends or flat spots and shock. Check for oil leaks on shocks or poor should be evenly tensioned. Hubs performance (unresponsive, stiff, etc). Have (axle assembly) should spin freely without your frame and/or shock professionally any play. Damaged wheels or tires can be serviced if problems are found. dangerous. Replace or repair damaged wheel components or tires immediately.

Brakes (front & rear) Brake levers should activate the brakes smoothly and firmly well before the lever reaches the handlebar. Cables should be taut, have no breaks or frayed ends. Hydraulic brake equipped bikes should not have any leaks and should have a firm lever feel. Brake pads should be regularly inspected for wear and replaced as required. Pads should be properly aligned and secured, and brakes should be aligned so that they do not rub on the rim or rotor (disk brake equipped bikes). Finally, brakes should be tested to ensure they effectively stop the bike with little Front fork force. Poorly performing brakes should be Inspect the front fork to ensure it is repaired immediately by a qualified bicycle straight, free of dents, cracks or bends and technician. that it is properly fixed to the bicycle. The fork should turn freely in the (the bearing system that attaches the frame to Bicycle components should the fork), but should not have play between be regularly inspected for the fork and bike frame. Suspension wear and tear. It is important forks require regular professional serving in order to function optimally. Inspect to remember that your bike suspension forks for leaks and upper leg should receive at least one scuffs regularly. Have your fork serviced if professional tune up and it leaks or is performing poorly. inspection each year by a professional bike shop. Do not Handlebars, , Seat and perform repairs to your bike Post that you are not experienced Your handlebar and stem (part that fixes or comfortable with. A properly the bar to the bike) should be in line with functioning bike is not only your front wheel and all bolts should be safe, it’s a lot more fun to ride! tight. Holding your front wheel between your legs, try turning your bar and stem. They should not move. Grips should be Crank & pedals tight, in good condition and have handlebar The (the bike’s front chain wheel) plugs installed. Replace if worn, damaged should turns freely and evenly, when spun. or missing. Your seat and should They should not feel like they are binding, be secure with your seat level to the ground and should have no bends or cracks. Chain and positioned fore and aft so that you are rings should not be bent or have any missing comfortable. See ‘The importance of bike teeth and should be inspected regularly for Page 2 THE BASICS OF BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

wear associated with increased mileage third of the way through its stroke. When (pointed teeth are a sign of extreme wear). tension is set properly the lever should Pedals should turn freely and cages should begin to feel difficult to push closed over be in good condition with no cracks or the last third of its stroke. It should leave bends. Damaged components should be an imprint on your palm when closing it. replaced immediately. Worn chain rings When you close the skewer, your hand indicate a fully worn drivetrain (rings, strength is accomplishing two things: It’s chain, rear cog/cassette). applying a clamping force to the skewer, and it’s overcoming the mechanical friction Chain of the mechanism. The chain should be free of rust, not over oiled and inspected for wear regularly. Accessories Chains stretch over time and require All accessories on your bike should be replacement. Catching this in time can properly fixed to the bike and should save you money on other more costly be functioning. Test , light drivetrain components (chain rings, cogs/ systems, bottle cages, sets, rack cassette). Your can check and bag systems, etcetera to ensure all are the rate of chain stretch or purchase your functioning properly and are not impeding own gauge. Chains should be lightly oiled safe operation of the bicycle. as needed using a bicycle specific lubricant. Be sure that oil does not come into contact with your brake components! Repairing a flat tire /shifters Be prepared to change a flat! Both front and rear derailleurs should During a ride you’ll require some basic be inspected to ensure they are not tools and some before hand knowledge and bent, cracked or seized. When shifting practice of the procedure. You’ll require becomes erratic or rough the cause may the following tools: tire lever set (3), spare be damage, cable/housing tube and/or patch kit, tire pump, cell phone damage or stretching, lack of lubrication or or bus pass (optional/last resort tools!) drivetrain wear and tear. Inspect all related components. Your derailleurs and STEP 1: Inspect the damage. Can you see shifters should operate smoothly and what cause the flat? Was it road debris shifts should be crisp and accurate. like glass, etc? A pinch flat from hitting a Regular lubrication of pivot points and square edge sharply? If there is obvious internals help to maintain top significant tire damage it may be time to performance. use that phone and call for help or find your nearest bus stop! Quick Releases Bikes equipped with quick release wheels STEP 2: Remove the wheel -- practice this or seat posts require regular inspection. at home before you need this skill! On Ensure all levers open and close smoothly rim brake equipped bike and that they are closed tight. Quick release you will first need to open levers are a cam system and consist of your brake mechanism. a nut on one end and lever on the other. This requires pulling the When the lever is opened the tension that is cable through a slot in holding your wheel or seat post is released. the brake arm to release In closing the quick release properly you the arms away from the tighten the nut wheel (take a look at side slightly TIP: For removing your bike and try this at home as it varies but not fully. the rear wheel, by brake type). If you You will know shift bike to the intend to patch your you have the lowest rear gear punctured tube, you correct setting first. This allows may be able to do so on the nut the wheel to slide without removing when the lever, out of the frame the entire wheel but as it’s closed, rather following begins to feel past the rear the steps below to tight about a derailleur easier. Page 3 smartTRIPS regional program

remove one side of the tire only to allow the With your pump put one or two strokes of tube to be exposed for repair. air into your new tube to shape it then place it into the tire. There are two common valve STEP 3: Release the air if the tire is not types on tubes, Schrader or ‘American’ fully flat (you may need to do this before valve (like those found on vehicles) and you remove the wheel) as it helps to freely Presta or ‘french valve’ commonly found remove the wheel from the bike (and from on road bikes. Presta values are narrower your brake if you can’t open it easily). and include a locking threaded tip. Most modern bike pumps will accommodate both valve types. Ensure your spare tube is the ”Of all the bike maintenance skills I’ve correct size and valve type for your bike. acquired over the years, repairing a flat tire has been the one I’ve gotten STEP 6: Insert the tube valve through to practice the most!” the valve hole in the rim ensuring it is 90 Mike Kittmer, Active Transportation degreess to the rim, not angled. Pull the tire over the rim, working one side at a time. It Coordinator is best to work the bead over the rim evenly around starting opposite the valve. If you STEP 4: Insert the thin spoon end of your removed the entire tire, move to the other tire lever between the tire bead (edge) and side again working the tire bead on evenly the rim, pull down and clip the hooked end ending by the valve. The last few inches of the lever to the nearest . Move over will be tight but can be done by hand. Try a couple spokes and repeat this procedure to avoid using tools so you don’t pinch the with your second tire lever and then again with the third if the bead is still tight. tube! You can now re-inflate the tire to the Remove the first lever and use the spoon recommended PSI noted on the sidewall (or end to ‘scoop’ the bead off of the rim until it lower if booted). As you pump it up, watch is free enough to slide the lever around the to ensure the tire bead is seating evenly on tire to remove the remainder of the bead. the rim. You may need to manipulate the Once one side is fully free you can then pull tire edge as you go to get an even seal. You the other side up and over the rim edge and may opt to pump up the tire once it’s re- off of the wheel (you may not need to take installed on the bike if you tire is large and the entire tire off to change or repair the difficult to get into your frame or through tube as you only require one side to be off your brake arms. the rim to access the tube. Careful if you have disk brakes! Remove the tire from the STEP 7: Re-install the wheel onto your bike. rim on the non-disk side of your wheel. Do Reconnect brakes if opened to remove not pull a tire off with force on the disk wheel. Spin wheel to ensure it’s installed side, if you slip you can be seriously evenly and doesn’t rub brakes or the frame injured! or fork. Test brake and ensure pads are hitting rim squarely (rim brakes only). Shift STEP 5: Remove the tube by pulling the old into an appropriate gear, put away your tube out of the tire with your hands. Save tools and get back on your way! old tubes to patch them at home for future use, or to recycle at your local bike shop. Run you hand lightly over the inside of the tire to find the cause of the flat. Remove any thorns, glass, wire, etc. If you now find a large hole in the tire, now is a good time to use that cell phone or bus pass! Alternately, consider a temporary tire boot, like a patch, to cover the hole. Any heavy cloth material, tape, cardboard or even bills (yes money) can serve as a tire boot to cover the hole and ensure your tube will not protrude through. If you boot your tire, be sure to be careful re-inflating the tire possibly keeping the pressure lower. Ride slower and cautiously to your destination and replace or properly repair the tire before reuse. Page 4 THE BASICS OF BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

smooth. Inspect brake pads for wear basic bike and test brakes ensuring they engage effectively. Replace worn/frayed cables maintenance or damaged cable housings. Ensure all bearing systems (hubs, headset, pedals, It is advisable to take your bike to an cranks) spin smoothly and have no excess experienced mechanic once a year for a play. Inspect suspension components (if thorough service. However, with a little equipped) for leaks or damage. Inspect investment in tools and time, the majority your frame for any damage. of repair and maintenance jobs can be carried out at home. Annual service Bicycle technicians are trained to repair Basic repair tools all types of bicycle components from There is a range of bicycle tools available, shifting systems to suspension. Don’t take however all you need to start with are chances, if you unsure about how to repair screwdrivers, Allen keys (metric), wrenches something on your bike take it to the pros! (also metric), a pump, tire levers, cleaning rags an old scrub brush, lubricants and a puncture repair kit. If you plan to do your own work regularly, consider purchasing a bicycle repair stand to ADVANCED make servicing your bike easier. REPAIRS Daily bike maintenance Advanced repairs to bicycle systems require mechanical aptitude and often Each day you use your bike you should give bicycle specific tools. Do not perform it a quick once-over. In particular, check repairs you are not comfortable with the condition of the tires and their pressure and always use the correct tools and and have a look at your chain lubrication. replacement components! The purpose of this guide is simply to provide you with a Weekly bike maintenance better understanding of two of your bike’s Clean then lubricate exposed moving major systems, shifting and braking. For parts of the bike, such as the chain and detailed servicing guidance for these or derailleur pivots taking care not to get other bicycle systems such as wheels, any on wheel rims or brakes. Clean dirt / bearing systems or suspension, consult grease off wheels with a cloth and some your local bike shop or the manufacturer cleaning spray, test lights for brightness, of specific components. grab components/parts to see if anything is loose.

Monthly bike maintenance You should conduct a full bike inspection each month. Check tire pressure and condition of tread and sidewalls. Make sure your wheels are properly fastened, are in line with the frame and spin freely and straight. Check all nuts and bolts to insure they are tight. Wash down your bike with soap and water (never use a pressure washer) and re-lubricate all moving Taking your bike in for a parts and professional tune up or cables. Run to have more advanced t h r o u g h repairs performed will shifting to ensure its ensure your bike runs functioning at its best and offers well and you years of faithful cables are service.

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a professional mechanic if you’re not shifting systems familiar with adjusting limit screws! Incorrect adjustment can result in Getting started rider injury and component damage. In order to make shifting system adjustments you will need a way to If you are familiar with making limit suspend or hold the bike upright (a car rack adjustments, the derailleur range of works or use a repair stand, if you have motion can be altered by turning the one). You’ll need a 5-mm allen wrench, high and low-gear limit screws found on chain lube, grease, diagonal cutters, pliers, the derailleur body (usually the top and small screwdriver (flat or Phillips) and cable bottom, respectively on the rear derailleur) end cap (to prevent fraying). This tutorial to allow the derailleur to shift accurately will guide you through a front and rear to the largest and smallest cogs. Counter derailleur tune and changing or cleaning of clockwise turns allow it to move farther; cables and housings. clockwise turns limit it. Keep shifting with your thumb and fine-tuning the screws until Place the bike in a repair stand. While the chain shifts perfectly onto each cog pedaling by hand, shift the chain to the with no hesitation or over shifting range. smallest freewheel cog and middle or smallest chain ring. Front derailleurs offer similar adjustability allowing you to set the mechanism so that Cleaning or changing cables or it will not allow the chain to drop off over the top or bottom front chain ring. In order housing to effectively test the Cut off the end cap, loosen the Remember! When riding function of the front anchor bolt, and pull the cable you should never ‘cross derailleur you’ll need out of the clamp. If it’s kinked chain’. Cross chaining is to first attach the or rusted, replace it. If it’s ok, when you are using the cable to the anchor simply clean the full length of bolt then run some the cable with an oiled rag. inner or outer most front cog and the opposite test shifts while Blow out housing sections then pedaling the bike rear gearing. Your chain using your chain lube, lubricate with your opposite into housing. Using a synthetic is at an extreme angle hand. With the chain bicycle grease, grease housing in these cases which will on the smallest cog, end under caps then reroute result in poor shifting grasp the cable with the cable through the housing performance, worn parts pliers and pull lightly and to the anchor bolt. Turn the and possible miss shifts to remove slack. derailleur adjustment barrel, or drivetrain skipping While holding the located on the derailleur body, which can result in injury! cable, tighten the clockwise all the way (last anchor bolt. Install piece the cable goes through the cable end cap before it reaches the anchor bolt on the and crimp it in place you’re your cutters. derailleur), then unscrew it one turn. Don’t While pedaling, with your opposite hand, tighten the anchor bolt yet. shift repeatedly with your other hand to test adjustments. The chain should engage Tuning the front and rear the largest and smallest cogs accurately. derailleurs If necessary, adjust the limit screws found To test the rear derailleur while pedaling, on the top of the derailleur (ensure you’re with your right hand, push against the using the screw that corresponds with the derailleur body with your left thumb inner or outer limit you are setting!). Often causing a shift to the largest cog. Release cables stretch initially so after a few shifts the pressure with your thumb to shift to you may need to re-tension the cable at the the smallest cog. Do this repeatedly, noting anchor. any hesitation or over shifting. The chain should move smoothly onto the smallest If the chain won’t drop down smoothly and largest cogs. If it does not, then through the gears you may need to loosen adjustments need to be made to the limit the cable by turning the adjustment barrel screws on the derailleur that prevent it clockwise half a turn. Conversely if shifting from over or under shifting past the outer is hesitant moving up the gears you may and inner most cogs. Take your bike to need to add tension to the cable using the Page 6 THE BASICS OF BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

barrel adjuster. Barrel adjuster allows the brakes you to ‘fine tune’ your shifting.Standing feel right, lock behind the bike you should be able to the barrel see the rear derailleur move up or down adjusters slightly as you make minor barrel adjuster in position movements. The two jockey wheels in the by turning derailleur should always center over the the lock ring gear you are in. Running through each gear (the second individually, test to ensure all shifts are knurled piece) smooth and crisp. c l o c k w i s e A properly adjusted front derailleur should until it’s tight result in smooth, fast up or down shifts and against the no chain rub on the derailleur cage except lever. Over possibly when the rear derailleur is in the tightening the extreme highest or lowest cogs. adjuster will result in brake Most shifters also have a fine tuning barrel pad rub. Simply adjuster where the cable enters the shifter. back off a bit if this occurs. It’s important to This can be used to make ‘on the fly’ minor check your brake pad condition each time shifting adjustments if shifts are hesitant. an adjustment is needed. You may find Tensioning the cable (dialing the adjuster your pads are worn right down and need out) will help the rear shifter climb up replacement. Barrel adjusters should never to lower gears while de-tensioning the be run out near their full length. adjuster (dialing it in) will allow it to drop to higher gears more easily. Just to be confusing, on most system it is the opposite Brake pads for your front shifter/derailleur! If pads are due for replacement you’ll need to bring them into your local shop to ensure you’re getting the correct replacement pad. All brake systems vary in the type of pad brake systems used so we will not go into detail as to how There are many brake types on modern to change pads as the process differs with bikes including caliper, V-brake, coaster and each system. It is recommended you have disk brakes. All have unique maintenance a local shop replace worn pads and re-tune needs. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll your brake system when required. In doing touch on only a few key points. Remember, so the shop will re-set your barrel adjusters your local bike back in, set the pads to contact evenly to Your safety depends shop is your the rim or disk, ensure there is no rubbing on a functioning brake resource when and that your brake levers engage well it comes to system on your bikes, before they reach the handlebar. For those repairing today’s don’t take chances. interested in learning how to change your complex braking bikes specific pads, inquire with your shop’s systems. mechanic.

Fine tuning between major Hydraulic disk brakes services Hydraulic disk brake systems require re- On mechanical (cable actuated) brake bleeding just like car brakes from time systems interim brake adjustments can to time. Consult your local bike shop or be made using your brake system’s barrel owners manual for service intervals. adjusters. This is the device located Have a shop perform fluid replacement to commonly on your brake lever (on the brake caliper on road bikes). The adjuster allows ensure it’s done correctly. Brake fluid is to you add tension to your cables (like often corrosive to painted surfaces and is tightening a guitar string) in order to take harmful to health if exposed. Fluids should up slack that has developed as your brake always be disposed of properly at facilities pads wear. To use barrel adjusters, turn that accept such materials. Check with your them counter clockwise by hand and check local bike shop to ensure proper disposal. the setting by squeezing the levers. When Page 7 smartTRIPS regional program

improperly because it’s tight on the frame and has been adjusted to align properly only on a perfectly centered wheel. Now that the wheel is crooked in the frame, the brake can’t work correctly. To correct the dragging brake pad, simply center the wheel in the fork or frame. For most wheels, all that’s usually required is loosening, making sure they’re fully inserted in the fork or frame, and tightening them. (If the bike is standing, just press down on the handlebars for the front wheel and the seat for the rear wheel to push them fully into the frame and center them.) Brake cables and housing Frayed or damaged cables can be replaced If your wheels are centered and the brake on mechanically actuated brake systems by still drags, the brake may have gotten unbolting the cable anchor located on the bumped and knocked out of position on brake arm, cutting off the old cable end the frame. Start by double-checking that cap (if present) and sliding the cable out of the wheel is centered in the frame -- you the housing system. The brake cable has don’t want to ruin the brake adjustment if a circular end that allows it to sit within a it’s actually set correctly. To center side pull fitting within the brake lever to anchor it brakes (road bikes), loosen the attaching the lever. You will need to turn your barrel bolt behind the fork crown or brake bridge adjuster and locking nut to so that the slot until the brake is loose. (It should move within each aligns allowing the cable to sideways when you push it). Now, squeeze route out through the adjuster and then the lever to hold the brake pads against the out of the lever fitting. Place the new cable rim while you tighten the brake bolt on the anchor into the lever fitting so it is secure back of the frame. If the brake needs minor then route the cable back through the fine-tuning after this, look for a small screw barrel adjusters remembering to re-tighten (it might be an Allen type) on top of the the adjuster (leave about one full turn or so brake. Clockwise turns will move the brake from fully tight for fine tuning adjustments). shoe on the side of the screw away from Run the cable through the lubricated or new the rim and vice versa. (This screw is not housing system the re-attached the cable intended for major adjustments.) end to the brake arm anchor. When doing so, leave approximately 2mm of space To center linear-pull brakes like caliper between the pads and your rim (approx. or V-brakes, look for a small screw in the 1mm or less between disk brake pads and side of the brake arm. Turning the screw the rotor). Cut off the excess cable (leave clockwise will move the arm with the screw about 2” max) and clamp a cable end cap to the cable using your cutters. Test the away from the rim and vice versa. This brake, it should engage evenly well before adjustment affects both brake arms and the brake lever reaches the bar. Pads should allows you to center the brake evenly so not rub at all when the brake is disengaged. both pads contact the rim at the same time. Make adjustments to the cable tension as Mechanical disk brake systems commonly required until a uniform feel is achieved. have pad position adjuster located on the sides of the caliper that allow you to dial Properly aligned brakes in the contact point for the pads ensuring One of the most common brake problems they touch the rotor at the same time. The is a dragging brake pad; one that remains entire caliper can also be loosened from against the rim or stays close to it after its two fixing bolts and centered manually. you’ve released the brake lever. The most Again, only make adjustments you are common cause of rubbing breaks is a comfortable with! Do not adjust brakes misaligned wheel. This can occur when if you are at all unsure of the process! you reinstall your wheel after removing it Your safety depends on properly adjusted to put your bike on a roof rack or to fix a flat brakes -- if you’re unsure, take it to your tire, and you don’t get it exactly centered local bike shop for professional serving. in the frame. This causes the brake to work Page 8 THE BASICS OF BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

Brakes that stick or bind clean (rim replacement is expensive). To If your brakes are binding or sticking at clean them, dampen a corner of a rag all, it may be that they simply need some with rubbing alcohol and scrub the rims to lubrication on the cables and within the remove any rubber deposits or grimy build housing system or your pads may need up. Then wipe the surfaces of the brake replaced (if they are grooved and sticking pads to clean them. Disk brake system against the rim). Cable systems can be requires very little pad or rotor cleaning lubricated by opening the brake system but both can also be cleaned using (freeing the cable from the brake arms rubbing alcohol on a clean rag. Remember or brake lever). If the housing stops are that cleaned brakes will require a break in split, open the quick release on side pull period again so power will be reduced on brakes or unhook the 90 degree cable your first rides after a cleaning. guide pipe on linear-pull brakes (v-brakes). This should provide enough slack so that you can pull gently on the housing sections the importance of and free them from the frame stops. If you need more slack, squeeze the brake shut bike fit with your hand. You can lightly lube into A properly fitted bike ensures you’re able cable housing ends and wipe lubrication to ride more efficiently and comfortably onto cable sections that flow through and reduces the chance of injury. Bikes housings to improve braking performance. come in a range of frame and wheel sizes Be very careful not to get lubrication allowing you to get the fit that’s just right onto your brake pads or rims/rotors. for you or your family member. Lubrication can ruin pads and seriously impact braking performance. If you get lube onto your brake components clean it What to consider immediately with rubbing alcohol. Exposed When straddling the bike top tube, disk brakes pads may need to be replaced you should have adequate clearance -- as they are porous typically at least an inch to two for road or and soak up Brakes should commuter hybrid bikes and up to 4 inches for mountain bikes. Seat height should lubricants easily operate smoothly be adjusted to your leg while in the fully which ruin the and easily and pads. Reconnect downward crank position, you should have the brake pads a 10 to 15% bend at the knee. This allows the cables and should snap away test the brake to for optimum power transfer while keeping from the rims see if all binding/ you from fully extending your knees or sticking is gone. when you release rocking your hips. To achieve the optimum the levers. fore and aft riding position, sit on your bike with both feet in the normal position. Cleaning Level the pedals so they are parallel to the brake surfaces ground. You should have an approximate For optimum braking, the rims and brake 90 degree bend in your forward knee. If pads must be clean. As you use your not move your seat forwards or backwards brakes, however, the pads strike the just enough to create an approximate 90 rims picking up anything on them and degree bend. sometimes transferring rubber deposits to the rims. The pads even pick up bits The other factors that affect your riding of sand and gravel that then grind the position are stem length and bar/stem sides of the rims as you brake wearing height. If your stem is too long you will feel them prematurely. This is another reason stretched out. If it is to short you will feel it’s important to keep the pads and rims cramped or too upright. The general rule applied is that while you are in your normal riding position you should not be able to see the front axle of your front wheel, when you look down your handlebar should cover it. To adjust fore/aft fit you may need to purchase a new stem. Stem height is more to do with rider preference, riding style and comfort. If you are commuting or riding downhill trails you would want to be more upright than you would typically be if Page 9 on a competition road bike. Performance light with both flashing and steady modes oriented riders prefer to be lower and more (red light). Flashing modes are for use in forward over their bars balancing their high traffic areas or during dusk hours to weight over the bike. Try a position and help your draw attention to yourself from only make small adjustment each time until motorists in the area. you find a position that balances In order for you Many commuter cyclists choose to outfit performance and to get the most their bikes so that they are prepared to comfort to your out of your riding handle a variety of weather conditions liking. Those with and are able to transport personal experience it’s back or neck belongings, groceries, etc on their ride. injuries or pain important that Often commuter bikes are outfitted with should consider you have a full fenders, a rear utility rack and rear a more upright properly fitted (cargo) bags that are removable. riding position that bike. Often bags are equipped with their own places weight over rain covers, reflective piping and carrying the saddle of the bike, not over the bars. handles. Other common accessories There are great custom handlebar grips include a water and bottle (stay available to help fine tune your comfort hydrated!), and if more utility on the bike. Remember, a bike that fits space is needed, a handlebar mounted bag. you well is comfortable, fun to ride and As noted in the repair tips above, some makes you want to ride more often! common tools and parts are also carried The same applies to kids bikes; don’t put by regular commuters and sport cyclists. your children on improperly fitted ! These include a spare tube, tire pump, tire levers and a multi tool (and that Lights & other accessories trusty cell phone just in case). Accessorize By law, all bikes sold in North America are your bike to suit your needs and make it required to come equipped with a front and more useful for all trips. back reflector and two wheel reflectors. If you are commuting it is a good idea to leave those reflectors on your bike and to lock it or lose it! consider adding powered light system if Bike theft happens. Do what you can you may be travelling after dark. There are to ensure you’re not a victim. Purchase many types of bicycle lights available, each and properly use a high quality bike lock with advantages and disadvantages. There when locking your bike in public. U-locks is no one “best” solution for any rider, provide the most security. Remember, and many riders mix and match different some bike parts are easily removed such technologies to provide the balance that as quick release wheels and so works for them. Systems are available to consider locking through these as well provide basic illumination to allow you to be with a separate cable lock. Always lock to seen, while other more advanced system a secure feature like a proper bike rack, offer strong illumination that will also light never to things that can be cut or things the way for you. Today’s modern LED that your bike can simply be lifted off of based light systems offer the best or over. Be courteous and don’t block balance of affordability, durability, walkways, ramps or doorways with your longevity and performance. Your local bike! Keep your bike’s serial number and bike shop can help you choose a light set photos of it on file in case of a theft and that will meet all of your riding needs. A always report a theft to police right away. common setup for a commuter might include a removable handlebar mounted front LED light that provides a flashing and steady mode (white light) and a rear seat post or back pack mounted removable LED

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