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HIKING TRAILS OF NEW BRUNSWICK 3rd edition by Marianne and H.A. Eiselt Copyright © 2007 by Marianne and H.A. Eiselt Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced Eiselt, Marianne or used in any form or by any means, electronic or Hiking trails of New Brunswick / Marianne Eiselt, mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any H.A. Eiselt. — 3rd ed. retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher or a licence from the Canadian Copyright Licensing Previously published under title: A hiking guide to Agency (Access Copyright). To contact Access Copyright, New Brunswick. visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call 1-800-893-5777. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-86492-455-1 Central cover image courtesy of Service New Brunswick. Jewel images by H.A. Eiselt. 1. Trails — New Brunswick — Guidebooks. All interior photographs by H.A. and Marianne Eiselt. 2. Hiking — New Brunswick — Guidebooks. Base map images courtest of GeoGratis, copyright 3. New Brunswick — Guidebooks. © Department of Natural Resources Canada. All rights I. Eiselt, Horst A., 1950- reserved. II. Title. Cover design by Kent Fackenthall. GV199.44.C22N46 2007 917.15’1045 C2007-900457-1 Book design by Julie Scriver. Printed in Canada. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Goose Lane Editions acknowledges the financial support of the Canada Council for the Arts, the Government of Canada The authors have made every effort to ensure that the through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program information contained in this book is correct. However, (BPIDP), and the New Brunswick Department of Wellness, neither the authors nor the publisher accept any responsibil- Culture and Sport for its publishing activities. ity, implied or otherwise, resulting from the use of this book or the trails described in it. Goose Lane Editions Suite 330, 500 Beaverbrook Court A Note on our Partners Fredericton, New Brunswick This book has been published in association with CANADA E3B 5X4 www.gooselane.com with the support of Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you. — Frank Lloyd Wright Contents 9 Preface to the Third Edition 13 Introduction 27 The Regions 28 Trails at a Glance 33 ST. JOHN RIVER VALLEY 71 FUNDY COAst–West 123 FUNDY COAst–EAst 187 FUNDY NATIONAL PARK 231 EAsterN COAst 273 AppALACHIAN HigHLANDS 315 Bibliography 317 Index PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION Like everything else, trails change The trails in the Big Pokiok over time. While some existing Nature Park (trails 2-4 in the third trails fall into disrepair or disuse edition) existed in large part due to due to neglect, loss of sponsorship, the sponsorship of the Nackawic or other factors, new trails emerge. Pulp Mill. With the demise of the This is a brief summary of some of mill, the trails have been neglected the changes that have occurred since for some time, so that only parts of the third edition was first published some of the trails can still be used. in 2007. Whether or not a local group can Cape Jourimain Lighthouse 9 Last year’s leaves be found to maintain the trails, is Access should be similar to the way uncertain at this point in time. in which it is described in this book. The Mount Douglas Bald Trail It is our pleasure to thank Mr. (trail 15) above the town of Wels- Dave Ward, who has hiked many of ford was one of the nicest short trails the trails described in our book, and in that area. However, a while ago, provided us with many important construction of a new highway com- updates. His assistance is much ap- menced. This highway led directly preciated. above Welsford and just below the summit of Mount Douglas, cutting Marianne & H.A. Eiselt off access. At present, (in January of 2011) the trail is no longer acces- sible. However, the New Brunswick Department of Transportation is fully aware of the existence of the trail, and has plans to renew access to it once the highway is completed. 10 Hiking Trails of New Brunswick, 3rd edition Pokiok Stream Preface 11 INTRODUCTION Walking and hiking has rapidly multi-day hikes. There should be a increased in popularity in this trail here for everyone. province over the last two decades. Hiking is not about arriving at a This trend can be measured by the destination; it is about the experi- growth of new hiking clubs and ence of getting there. Hiking is the increasing numbers of hikers almost always combined with other in national and provincial parks. pursuits such as birdwatching, pho- And these trails are used not just by tography, or the plain enjoyment of tough and rugged types who hike the outdoors. Fresh air and fitness these paths in their entirety, but by are extra bonuses. There are many “regular” people and families, who questions a would-be hiker is likely might spend only a few hours or to ask. In this book, we don’t discuss days on them. the how’s or why’s of this activity. One reason for the popularity of This book addresses questions such hiking is that, in its simplest form, it as does not require any special equip- ment. Walking trails (less than two • Where can I hike in the hours, easy going) can be attempted Province of New Brunswick? by all, including kids, while hiking and trails (up to a full day) are for rea- • Why should I go? sonably fit individuals. Multi-day backpacking trails (two to seven In order to get a feel for what can days) attract physically fit nature be expected on the hiking trails in lovers, and long-distance backpack- this province, it is useful to know ing trails are for those who seriously some basic facts about its geography. want to get away from it all. Clearly, New Brunswick’s surface is about multi-day hikes, particularly those 73,000 km2 (28,000 sq mi), 85% of over difficult terrain, do require which is wooded; and the elevation special and sometimes costly gear. ranges from sea level to 820 m (2700 In this book, we describe trails that ft). Even though most of the prov- run the gamut from light hikes to ince’s geologic structure was formed in the Paleozoic era (248-590 million 13 years ago), its surface is astonish- the Fundy Coast West, life on the ingly diverse: it ranges from wide, Fundy Isles has a slower pace than sandy beaches to highlands to fertile it does on the mainland. Charming river valleys. In this third edition of fishing communities, the Franklin Hiking Trails of New Brunswick, we D. Roosevelt cottage on Campobello have divided the province into six Island, and whale-watching, hik- geographical regions where hiking ing, and ocean kayaking on Grand trails can be found. Manan attract local and foreign tourists. Fundy National Park en- compasses a diverse landscape: the The Regions Bay of Fundy with its giant tides and The first region is the scenic St. softwood-clad cliffs, and, in the up- John River Valley, a fertile area lands, roaring waterfalls and large where agriculture is one of the stands of maple, birch, and beech. economic mainstays. It extends The park is a haven for hikers and from the Madawaska region in the naturalists. Fundy Coast East is a northwest corner of the province zone of transition. While its west- through Fredericton to Grand Lake. ernmost reaches around Saint John The Fundy Coast is the region in and the coast between St. Martins which most of the hiking trails and Fundy National Park are still are located, so we have decided dominated by the rugged Fundy to subdivide it into three separate coastline, the geography changes chapters. There are many features markedly to the north and east of that these three sections have in the National Park. Wide stretches common. The entire Fundy Coast of marshes alternate with steep is dominated by the tides; rising cliffs, until they eventually vanish up to 15 m (50 ft), they are among and the coastline becomes gentle. the highest in the world due to These are the Eastern Shores, the funnel-like shape of the Bay of which are characterized by fish- Fundy. The weather and the tides ing villages, lighthouses, marshes, have formed a dramatic shoreline peat bogs, and sandy beaches. Salt of jagged cliffs and rocky beaches, marshes predominate along the and the forest often ends abruptly southern end of the Eastern Shores. at the steep cliffs. Forestry, fishing, The dikes and sea walls in this area and tourism are the main indus- are splendid examples of how the tries along the Fundy Coast. Along early Acadian settlers controlled the 14 Hiking Trails of New Brunswick, 3rd edition Grand Manan, southwestern coast tremendous tides. The shores of the the heavily wooded basin. Going Northumberland Strait boast miles northwest, the land slowly rises of sandy beaches with the warmest towards the Appalachian High- salt water north of Virginia. The lands, the New Brunswick portion hinterland does, however, change of the range that extends from the gradually: it is fertile in the south southeastern United States to New- and increasingly barren in the north. foundland. The rounded shape of Bogs become more and more preva- the heavily wooded highlands sug- lent in and north of Kouchibouguac gests advanced geological age. The National Park, which features sandy major feature is Mount Carleton, the beaches, salt marshes, and lagoons. highest peak of the Maritimes and Farther north, the Eastern Shores the centrepiece of Mount Carleton melt into the Bay of Chaleur, where Provincial Park.

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