______BGourmet Guideon to A étit 2 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 3

As well as a fantastic gourmet experience, New Caledonia also has so much to offer tourists, especially the cosmopolitan capital Nouméa. Bienvenue en Nouvelle-Caledonie Contents...... The spectacular Tjibaou Cultural Centre features Jean-Pierre Cuenet - Président du Introduction to New Caledonia...... 2 a stunning design created by the famous Pritzker Jean-Pierre Cuenet – President of the Syndicat des Restaurateurs Prize winning architect , who Association Welcome to New Caledonia brilliantly merged Kanak design with modern Welcome to the Paris end of the ...... 2 New Caledonia is a bountiful archipelago. The a fusion of on the one hand, and a New Caledonian . architecture. It is the cultural reference point for An introduction to the New Caledonia surrounding lagoon and ocean teem with fish preserving of authentic traditions on the other, From fine dining to popular brasserie- the entire South Pacific and offers the visitor a Gourmet Experience by Gabriel Gaté and seafood, and the astonishingly fertile soil and the talented local chefs have been able style , from the alfresco experience unique collection of contemporary art from the Dining with a Difference...... 5 of the islands produces a huge variety of exotic to take advantage of their unique situation. of a seaside terrace to a small family-run … and it’s only 10 minutes from the centre A look at some of Nouméa’s more interesting fruits and superb . In Nouméa itself, further inland and on the place in the bush, New Caledonia offers It’s a unique melting pot of shared culinary other islands, lovers will not only find a the traveller a warm welcome. Visitors of the city. traditions – a mix of Pacific, European and large number of authentic restaurants where can choose between a type of cuisine they Didier Broux – 360 Degrees...... 6 Tuna Steak with a Spice Crust and Sweet and Asian influences, creating an array of original they will be able to savour French, Chinese, already know or venture out to discover The Aquarium des Lagons has recently re-opened Sour Broth– Lemon and Vanilla Shortbread New Caledonian cuisine. Vietnamese, Italian and , exciting and unusual flavours. ‘Bon Appétit’ and is a true world-class facility. Discover the with Blackcurrant Sorbet Today this richness is characterised by but they will also discover the unique local and welcome to New Caledonia. magnificent water world of New Caldeonia, Chef Fabrice Louyot – La Coupole...... 7 including some of the hidden treasures from the Crab Cannelloni with Soy Sauce and Basil – world’s largest lagoon and the mysterious Fine Banana Tart with Almond Cream

– a living fossil from the deep. Restaurant – 1881...... 8 Seasonal Millefeuille with Stuffed The popular “Place des Cocotiers” is an attractive Prawns – Duck Fillets with Figs & Sweet Potato Rolls gardened square in the centre of the city of Restaurant – Le Roof...... 9 Nouméa and shaded by magnificent flame trees. Croustillant Prawn Rolls with Basil and Mango Sauce – Mahi-Mahi Steak with Surrounding this are numerous streets full of interesting shops. A brief guide to French food and wine...... 10 To get the most out of your French gourmet experience in New Caledonia , here is a simple Discover the market, by the Baie de la Moselle, guide to the food and wine of which is open every day (except the third Monday … and why some reds are chilled of every month), where you can taste local fruits Meet the Cheese Masters...... 11 and vegetables, buy fresh fish, as well as arts and The award-winning Poulard family come to Nouméa – discover their secrets crafts (see page 16). Gabriel’s Gourmet Trail of Nouméa...... 13 The Territorial Museum houses some superb We visit Nouméa’s main dining precincts examples of Melanesian architecture, and features A Master Chocolatier...... 14 an excellent collection of utensils and artifacts Meet Patrick Morand – a chocolatier par excellence from all over the Pacific. The City of Nouméa Museum, housed in a building dating back to A Foie Gras Connoisseur...... 14 1864, retraces the history of the city and the Meet Gerald Ittah who adds a tropical touch with unusual fruits and spices country from 1854 to 1954. Or visit the interesting Welcome to the Paris end of the South Pacific! Bernheim Library or Maritime Museum. A fantastic shopping experience...... 16 Bonjour, Messieurs et Mesdames! and are now sharing their One beer is obviously very popular. It is so easy to shop for your own food. A guide to markets and supermarkets. knowledge with younger chefs. If you are picnicking in Nouméa or Another great bonus is the top quality of The “Parc Forestier” nature reserve offers both Welcome to New Caledonia, the Paris We have also featured preparing a in your apartment, Nouméa’s drinking water, and there is a Do-it-yourself gourmet dining...... 17 end of the South Pacific. And welcome some of these fine chefs in I urge you to visit the closest supermarket, local mineral water called Mont Dore. botanical and zoological treats. Especially worth The shopping experience also makes it easy to also to the first edition of ‘Bon Appétit’, this edition of ‘Bon Appétit’. as the fresh food section of French viewing is the Cagou – New Caledonia’s flightless prepare your own , or a delicious a gourmet guide to New Caledonia. supermarkets is quite astounding. You’ll Most importantly, this guide provides national symbol bird, plus , bats and deer. During your stay make find many easy meal ideas, as well as a list of recommended restaurants put The finest Tropical and Melanesian Flavours...... 18 It is a real pleasure and honour to be the sure you try some of these exquisite wonderful French cheeses, smallgoods, together by our team. Some are French New Caledonia is home to some of the finest Gourmet Ambassador in for restaurants and savour the best of the such as French pâtes, terrines regional restaurants, some are places for One of the best views of the city of Nouméa, and and freshest ingredients – discover the oyster and New Caledonia – one of the most French Pacific experience. and foie gras, excellent a meal, and some are top class, prawn farms, the coffee preferred by the beautiful island groups in the world and a pre-prepared French meals modern restaurants. the , can be seen high on the hill French President, and much more special place to enjoy a gourmet holiday. When I first visited Nouméa 15 years ago, and salads, and great value from St Joseph’s beautiful gothic cathedral, which I went straight to the market to discover French wines. I’m amazed at the number of good was built by in 1887. Gourmet Calendar...... 19 Oui, New Caledonia is tropical France, what the locals were and was eateries and I consider New Caledonia to There’s something interesting happening in and naturellement, French is the spoken not disappointed. Today, the colourful On the way back from the be the most exciting gourmet destination New Caledonia every month of the year language and French food is the food stalls, managed for the most part by supermarket, don’t forget to of the Pacific region. I have no doubt Explore downtown, do the shops and check out Getting around is so easy...... 20 dominant gourmet cuisine of the islands, Melanesian, Vietnamese and Indonesian pick up a baguette in one of the many you will also discover great eating places the wide variety of European products available, which also offer many other types of locals, display a huge variety of fresh boulangeries dotted round the suburbs. that we have not listed, and I would really A look at tour, taxi and public transport options international cuisine. tropical fruits and superb vegetables, love to hear about your own gourmet have in an outdoor café and watch the sights, sounds and people as they pass by. Or enjoy Taste of France Tour...... 20 as well as fish, seafood (local prawns Nouméa also offers many specialised discoveries in New Caledonia. Please Here is an interesting way to sample some of You will find wonderful and oysters), and a good gourmet stores, including butchers email me at: [email protected] a Nouméa historic site tour with the Guide du the Food and dining experiences French breads, cheeses, delicatessen and takeaway selling good meat and prepared meals, Patrimoine association. wines, pâtisseries, pâtes section. And it’s a great place chocolate shops, cake shops where you’ll Enjoy your stay and bathe The superb ‘Le Superb’ Guided Gourmet Tour..... 21 and, of , excellent to enjoy a delicious French- find wonderful croissants, take-away in the wonderful hospitality A very special way to discover the Gourmet French restaurants. style . However shops and specialised liquor stores. of New Caledonia. The beaches at Anse Vata, Baie des Citrons and Experience – in the hands of experts I suggest you get there Bon Appétit! Many of the top chefs have trained in early to ensure you New Caledonia offers a great selection at Pointe Magnin are focal points for a lot of Escoffier School...... 21 France’s most highly rated establishments don’t miss anything. of beer, and the locally brewed Number Gabriel Gaté activities. Certain hotels offer a range of activities The famous Escoffier School in Nouméa for guests at Anse Vata through the “Plages Loisirs” Nightlife in Nouméa...... 22 centre. These activities include windsurfing, Nouméa comes alive at night – snorkelling and pedal boats, plus deck chairs to we visit some of the bars, clubs and casinos

assist with sunbathing. Customs information...... 23 what you can bring back Go walking or jogging along the beautiful Pierre A taste of France is oh so close! Shopping price guide...... 23 You don’t have to travel all the way to to enjoy some of the very finest influence in Languedoc. The wonderful flavours of Provence. Coq au vin and bœuf à Vernier promenade at Anse Vata and the Baie Here is a quick reference to what things cost French and wines. In fact, it is only 2 hours from Brisbane and la bourguignonne from Burgundy. Seafood dishes from Bordeaux. Goat cheeses from des Citrons. Enjoy an ice cream from the quaint in Australian dollars 2.5 hours from Sydney and Auckland. Poitou-Charentes. And from the Mediterranean Pyrenees. mobile vendor. Your feedback...... 23

The information contained in this publication is intended for French regional cuisine is characterised by its extreme diversity and style. Traditionally, The restaurants also offer an excellent choice of French wines to suit all tastes and There’s so much to do day by day … and at night. each region of France has its own distinctive cuisine that is accepted by both the budgets. France has many wine producing regions, the most famous and important general use as a guide only. Where prices are quoted, they have been checked for accuracy at the time of printing, and are general population of these regions … and the whole world. include: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Loire and Rhone. You can also subject to change without notice. Whilst reasonable care has buy a fantastic range of wines and champagnes from the specialist wine stores and And all of this is just a taste of what Nouméa has to been exercised to ensure the contents are correct, accurate and Restaurants in New Caledonia offer you a delicious cross-section of French and supermarkets in New Caledonia. One thing worth remembering is that the French offer. There is even more when you venture north up-to-date at the time of printing, based on information supplied, recipes, representing most of the French regions. Baguettes and brioche from Paris. also some of their red wines chilled during the summer, which you will also find in circumstances can and inevitably do change, and therefore no and south of the capital, to the superb Isle of Pines liability can be accepted. Printed April 2008. Quiche from Lorraine. Carbonnade and Potjevlesch from the north. World-famous New Caledonia – quite refreshing and tasty in a warm tropical climate. and the idyllic Loyalty Islands – more of those For more information please visit: Camembert and Pont l’Evêque cheeses from Normandy. Crêperies from Brittany. www.newcaledonia.com.au Tarte Tatin from the Loire Valley. Raclette and Tartiflette from Rhone-Alpes. The Catalan You’ll discover a lot more on page 10. destinations in future issues of Bon Appétit! www.newcaledonaia.co.nz There is soThere much to see and do www.newcaledoniatourism-south.com 4 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 5 Dining with a difference! New Caledonia gives you the chance to enjoy some very rare dining experiences, as well as the unique revolving restaurant and superb overwater restaurants... there are also several that are quite out of the ordinary. THE 3 BREWERS THE SINGING NUNS AMÉDÉE ISLAND

Les 3 Brasseurs is a fine restaurant that is actually built The restaurant L’Eau Vive (the Water of Life) is also called One of New Caledonia’s ‘must do’ day trips, Amédée around an in-house brewery, with traditional old-style the Singing Nuns Restaurant because it is actually run by an is a tiny islet on the barrier reef, dominated by its 1865 decor. A range of beers is brewed right at the heart of order of nuns. They are a truly international group, with some lighthouse which was constructed in Paris and sent the restaurant for you to see, and one of the highlights 30 nuns coming from New Caledonia, , Island, to New Caledonia by Napoleon. It takes about 45 is to try the 4 Sisters - a tray that features four of the France, and , with the objective to not minutes by a fast modern cruiser to reach the island distinctive beers that are brewed on the premises. only serve great food and wine, but to also raise money and enjoy its white beaches, excellent snorkelling, to help the needy of New Caledonia, and to train young swaying palms and castaway atmosphere. The range of beers includes the Blonde lager, a light Melanesian aspirants for the hospitality industry. The day excursion includes lunch and golden beer with a subtle, fruity character; the Amber, The delicious is constantly changing, offering a cultural entertainment, barrier reef cruise a denser beer with a delicate bitterness; the Scotch, wonderful diversity of international dishes, local New and glass-bottom boat to view the island’s an ebony coloured brown ale; the Blanche, a light Caledonia fare, and unique specialties of the countries from spectacular marine reserve. brew that is very thirst quenching; and the Bière de which the nuns originally come. And some say they have the Nöel (Christmas Beer), the pride of the beer master finest cellars in Nouméa. There are many other small islands very close to A diverse & delicious dining experience and a vintage beer that will delight connoisseurs. Nouméa, some totally desserted, that make the perfect “The restaurant L’Eau Vive location to charter a boat and enjoy a gourmet picnic. A varied menu includes simple ‘brasserie’ fare, bistro dishes and local is also called the Singing favourites that make the most of New Caledonia’s fresh produce, as well as Nuns Restaurant.” imported specialities from France. They only use their first names and do The house specialty, in keeping with traditions from not take the title ‘sister’. They dress in their France, is the , or Flamm for short. It is island ‘Mother Hubbard’ dresses rather than the traditional an Alsatian-style open-faced style of that has nun’s habits, and their heads are often adorned with tropical its origins as the country lunch par excellence in the leaves and flowers. They also wear anklets made from local 18th and 19th centuries. Originally the flammekueche nuts to stamp in tune to the rhythm of the guitar. At any time was always topped with cottage cheese, fresh cream, of the evening the nuns may suddenly break into song, and and cubed bacon, but at Les 3 Brasseurs it is at around 9pm they will always perform their emotional served with a variety of toppings. version of Ave Maria.

While Paris is home to some of the world’s best Superlative ingredients – including imported French wines and includes Italian, Indonesian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese, restaurants, Nouméa is definitely the cheeses – enrich the of local restaurants, which run awash Mediterranean and Middle Eastern style restaurants. hub of the Pacific with over 150 restaurants catering with foie gras and such traditional dishes as Bouillabaisse and to all tastes and budgets. Cassoulet. With New Caledonia situated in the world’s largest If you’re after something different there is a restaurant built lagoon, naturally seafood is a constant menu item with over 1,000 around an old-style French brewery and one even run by finds a perennial welcome here, thanks to species of fish thriving in the tropical waters. an order of singing nuns. Nouméa now also boasts a unique the luxuriant nature of traditional French food and the revolving restaurant with magnificent views, as well as two freshness of the local Melanesian fare. Nouméa’s innovative New Caledonia is a diverse and delicious experience, where superb overwater restaurants. As a food lovers' retreat it pays chefs fuse contemporary tastes to perfection, marrying you can enjoy food from all parts of the world. As well as to be prepared to enjoy what New Caledonia has to offer in In future issues of Bon Appétit, we will introduce you to some of the other fantastic different dining experiences to be discovered in New Caledonia. these unique cuisines in a seamless fusion of flavour. French and Melanesian cuisine, your international menu terms of high quality cuisine.

To suit all tastes and budgets Restaurant 360 is a revolving La Coupole is an excellent Meet two of restaurant set on the 19th restaurant located close to While there are plenty of budget options available – see our DIY section on page want to take it easy one night to splurge the next you can get a satisfying cheap eat floor of one of the twin towers many of the major hotels. 17 – fine dining in New Caledonia is equivalent to visiting some of the best restaurants such as fresh baguette, pastry, crêpe, pizza or salad at any of the popular bars Nouméa’s best chefs of the Ramada Plaza Wine buffs will be delighted in France and while it can be a little on the expensive side you can expect value or cafés around town for around 250-950 XPF (A$3.50-$13.40). Most restaurants offer Nouméa Hotel in Anse Vata, with the extensive list of for money in enjoying cuisine from expertly trained international chefs using some a menu ‘carte’ outside so you can have a chance to review the menu and pricing. offering the best 360° view of excellent French wines, of the finest produce available in the South Pacific. After all what’s a holiday if you For good value many restaurants offer a set menu ‘menu du jour’, some for lunch and In this edition of Bon Appétit you will meet Nouméa. The chef, Didier especially the Bordeaux can’t treat yourself with a meal you’ll never forget and be talking about for years to , others for dinner only. These usually offer three courses and some include wine two of Nouméa’s best chefs, learn a little Broux, and his team serve a delicate inclusions. Try one of the foie gras (goose liver come. For a first class three course dining experience you could spend around AU$75 or coffee. You can find details on some of Nouméa’s leading restaurants, including about their amazing backgrounds and using the freshest local ingredients, and the wine list is pâte) dishes prepared by Fabrice Louyot, the – $100 per head with a bottle of French wine for about AU$30. A meal at a mid-range their actual location and contact details, on page 12. discover some of their favourite recipes. one of the best in Nouméa. See page 6. excellent chef de cuisine. See page 7. brasserie-style restaurant starts at about 1,600-3,000 XPF (AU$22.50-$42) and if you Prices quoted at April 2008. 6 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 7

Tuna Steak with a Crab Cannelloni with Spice Crust and Sweet Soy Sauce and Basil ...... and Sour Broth Serves 4 Entrées ...... 3 tomatoes Serves 4 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Spice Crust 1 small , chopped 10 coriander seeds 1/2 small chilli, finely chopped 1 tbsp sesame seeds about 12 basil leaves 1 tsp black peppercorns about 200 g crab meat (without 1 tbsp roasted hazelnuts, skinned bones) after 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp roasted almonds 3 medium zucchini Place coriander seeds, sesame seeds juice of 1 lemon and black peppercorns in a pan on salt and freshly ground pepper medium heat and roast spices until 1 cup finely sliced green salad leaves the sesame seeds are brown. Allow to cool, then place in a mortar and Quarter the tomatoes. Remove the pestle with the hazelnuts and almonds Chef to the French PM seeds using a small knife then cut the and pound to a powder. La Coupole is an excellent restaurant tomato flesh into small squares. located between the delightful Anse Vata Fabrice Louyot and picturesque Baie des Citrons, and is Fabrice was born in the stunning region of Alsace on the border with in Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a non-stick close to many of the major hotels. It’s a eastern France. During his four years of study at the Strasburg catering college he had pan and stir-fry onion without browning. the opportunity to do work experience at the Auberge de L’Ill, one of France’s best Add the tomatoes and for a few great place for groups with a large, open, minutes. Remove the pan from heat modern offering views of restaurants. He then worked in a number of great Alsatian restaurants before doing and add finely chopped chilli, finely Anse Vata. Wine buffs will be delighted his National Service in Paris as chef to the Prime Minister of France at the time, Lionel sliced basil, crab meat and soy sauce. with the extensive list of excellent French Jospin. After his National Service Fabrice returned to Alsace to further his skills in Then allow to cool. other superb restaurants, including the three Michelin-starred restaurant ‘Au Crocodile’ wines, especially the Bordeaux inclusions. Cut zucchini into thin slices lengthwise Try one of the foie gras (goose liver pâte) in Strasburg. He arrived in New Caledonia in 2004 and since then has held the position – it’s easier if you use a mandolin. dishes prepared by Fabrice Louyot, the of Executive Chef at La Coupole restaurant. (You will need 36 slices). Heat 1 tbsp of excellent chef de cuisine, while the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the zucchini slices briefly – it is important pastry cook produces some absolutely that they remain al dente. beautiful . On a plate place 3 slices of zucchini, slightly overlapping one another. Sweet and Sour Broth Place 1 tbsp crab mix at one end 200 g mushrooms, finely sliced then carefully roll the zucchini to wrap 1 tbsp honey the crab. Make 12 rolls in this way. 1 tbsp soy sauce 1/2 tbsp port In a small bowl mix lemon juice with 1 tsp sherry vinegar remaining 2 tbsp olive oil and a little juice of 1/2 lemon salt and pepper. Toss the salad leaves 200 ml water in this dressing. Place a few dressed 100 g butter salad leaves in the centre of 4 plates. Place mushrooms in a hot non-stick Carefully arrange 3 crab rolls on top One of Nouméa’s best chefs fry pan. Add honey, soy sauce, port, and serve. Restaurant 360 is a revolving restaurant vinegar and lemon juice. Bring to a set on top of one of the twin towers of simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Add water and simmer for a the Ramada Plaza Nouméa Hotel in further 30 minutes. Anse Vata, offering the best 360° view of Strain into a saucepan and then Fine Banana Tart Nouméa. The chef, Didier Broux, and his discard the mushrooms. with Almond Cream Place butter in a frypan and melt until team serve a delicate French cuisine using ...... it reaches a golden colour. Strain the Serves 4 the freshest local ingredients, and the butter into the mushroom broth and about 350 g puff pastry wine list is one of the best in Nouméa. mix well. Season with salt and pepper. 60 g butter 60 g caster sugar Lemon and Vanilla Shortbread with Blackcurrant Sorbet 1 egg ...... Vegetable 12 cherry tomatoes 60 g almond meal Didier Broux This is an absolute winner. The 10 g custard powder Didier was born in 1969 in Tourcoing 1/2 carrot, cut into small sticks contrast between the lemon and 1 small green zucchini which is cut 1/4 tsp vanilla essence next to Lille in the north of France. He blackcurrant flavours is really beautiful. into small sticks 2 large bananas was fortunate to have started his career It’s quite a complex recipe for the home 1 small yellow zucchini which is cut at ‘Au Carré des Feuillants’, a Parisian cook as you need professional equipment, into small sticks Preheat to 200°C. Roll the puff pastry out to a thickness of about restaurant run by one of France’s most such as an ice-cream maker and special about 2 tbsp shelled broad beans moulds. But here is a description: At the 1/2 , cut into small pieces 3 mm. Cut 4 discs of pastry about popular chefs, Alain Dutournier. base it’s a tartlet made with sweet pastry 1/2 cup snow peas 15 cm diameter and place them on The talented Didier continued to and lemon cream – a bit like lemon Cook all the vegetables in boiling a baking tray lined with baking paper. improve his skills with the three butter. Then it’s topped with a vanilla water until just done. Place in the fridge. crème brûlée that’s been cooked in a Michelin chefs, Marc Meneau in Place the butter and sugar in flexipan savarin mould and frozen for easy To Finish Burgundy and Antoine Westermann in a blender and blend until well unmoulding. The dessert is then topped 4 tuna steaks, each about 170 g combined and creamy. Add the Alsace, then with Jean Bardet, another with a superb blackcurrant sorbet and 2 tbsp cream 4 sprigs of coriander egg, almond meal, custard powder brilliant chef from the Loire Valley. garnished with the thinnest of tuile biscuits. Dip one side of the tuna steaks in and vanilla essence and blend again Didier commenced his position as Delicious! cream, then in the spice crust mixture. until smooth. Spread this creamy Executive Chef at the Ramada Hotel 360 Cook tuna on the spicy side in a non- preparation on top of the puff pastry Restaurant in July 2007 and has acquired stick frypan for about 3 minutes. discs, leaving a little margin round the the reputation as one of Nouméa’s best Place cooked vegetables on 4 deep edges without cream. Gabriel’s Comments plates. Make a hollow in the centre chefs. His dishes are a delight, both “The 360 is a great restaurant with top food, top wine and and place the tuna in the hollow, Cut bananas into thin slices. Place visually and in terms of flavour. Didier top views. Didier Broux is a meticulous and dedicated chef, and spice side up. banana slices, overlapping them is lucky to have a talented team around the desserts prepared by his pâtissier are indeed world-class. There Pour the very hot broth over the a bit, on top of the almond cream. are many outstanding wines by the glass. The view from the Gabriel’s Comments him, including his second chef, Ludovic vegetables – it will cook the base Cook the banana tart in pre-heated “Fabrice is an excellent chef, preparing a wonderful French-style cuisine adapted to Nouméa. He dining room is the most complete in Nouméa and the service of the tuna. Garnish with coriander oven until the pastry is browned also has an outstanding pastry cook producing beautiful desserts, and a most professional and Lehallais as well as his chef pâtissier, is very professional”. For reservations call (687) 23 90 90. sprigs and serve. underneath. It takes 15-20 minutes. attentive dining staff. The wine list is one of Nouméa’s best”. For reservations call (687) 26 44 11. Lucien Battarel. 8 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 9

Seasonal Vegetable Millefeuille with Stuffed Prawns ...... Serves 4 - You can vary the selection of vegetables according to your preference and availability.

Vegetable Millefeuille 2 tomatoes 1 medium eggplant 2 zucchini 1 yellow sweet potato 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground pepper Preheat oven to 180°C. Cut all the vegetables into long 3 mm thick slices. Roast Duck Fillets with Figs and Heat olive oil in a large frying pan and Sweet Potato Rolls briefly cook the vegetable slices (except for the tomatoes). The vegetables must not be cooked through, so 30 seconds on each side is enough. Line a bread tin with baking paper. Layer the vegetables in the tin (don’t start with the tomato slices) seasoning each layer with salt and pepper as you go. Cover with foil and bake in preheated oven at 180°C for about 30 minutes or until the vegetables are cooked through. Remove from oven and lift the foil. Mahi-Mahi Steak with Gently press down on the vegetables and discard excess water on the Foie Gras, Sauce Vierge surface. Allow to cool and refrigerate Croustillant Prawn Rolls with Basil until required. with Saffron and Sweet and a Mango Sauce Potato Mousseline ...... Prawn and Stuffing Preparation A restaurant with about 60 g butter ...... Serves 4 1 tbsp olive oil Serves 4 1 onion, finely chopped Nouméa produces very sweet prawns. 1/2 onion, finely chopped Mahi-Mahi is a very delicate fish 1 orange sweet potato, cut into small 1 small zucchini, finely diced caught in the waters around Nouméa. cubes 1 small carrot, finely diced 100 ml balsamic vinegar a long history salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp cream 2 large tomatoes 50 ml mayonnaise 1/2 cup coriander leaves 1 egg 50 ml mango purée Restaurant 1881 is a seaside restaurant that enjoys a rich history, as it is located in the 1 pack of spring roll pastry (you need 1 capsicum 4 semi-dried tomatoes, cut into pieces 6 sheets of brick pastry (available from 8 sheets) 1 large , finely chopped The finest dining about 100 g chicken breast meat grounds of the former penal settlement, as the name suggests dating back to the late 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Middle Eastern speciality stores) 1 egg about 40 g melted butter 19th century. It is one of Nouméa’s most exciting restaurants situated in a truly romantic 24 medium prawns, shelled and salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp sesame seeds salt of guérande deveined 20 green prawns, shelled and de-veined setting. It is also quite unique in that it offers two quite different dining experiences. 6 figs freshly ground black pepper Heat olive oil in a pan and cook onion, You have the choice of the picturesque over-water dining room on a deck facing the 2 tbsp honey a pinch of saffron threads over le water 24 small basil leaves Le Roof is an excellent restaurant that is actually built over the water, some 100 metres from zucchini and carrot until cooked bay with a superb sea view. Or you can select the main dining room which is set in the 2 tbsp white vinegar about 1 kg sweet potatoes 1 egg white through. Drain to remove excess fat 50 g caster sugar 1/2 cup hot milk the shore. From Anse Vata you walk along the long pier, high above the water, until you oil for frying and allow to cool. historic Colonial-style building featuring an enchanting décor. The menu features a 1 tbsp cream 4 pieces of mahi-mahi fillet, each arrive at the restaurant. You suddenly emerge into an open, spacious dining with a high When cool, place cooked onion, delicious, modern French-Pacific cuisine and, as you can expect in New Caledonia’s 4 duck fillets about 160 g Place vinegar in a small pan, bring zucchini and carrot in a blender with finest restaurants, the choice of French wines is superb. Restaurant 1881 is situated on a 4 slices of foie gras, each 50 g roof area representing a traditional Melanesian tribal hut. You have the choice of sitting on it to the boil and reduce by half. the cream, coriander leaves, sun-dried Pre-heat oven to 200°C. Heat 1 tbsp historical site at 98 Avenue in Nouville, just 5 minutes from the city centre. the balconies that offer some of the best views in Nouméa, overlooking either bustling Anse Allow reduced vinegar to cool. Mix tomatoes, chicken meat and egg. butter in a pan and gently fry onion Slice tomatoes in half and squeeze Blend to a purée and season with a little Vata or out towards the edge of the world’s largest lagoon. Or you can sit at a table around mayonnaise with mango purée. Cut for a few minutes. Add sweet potato out the seeds. Cut tomato flesh salt and pepper. Transfer preparation to cubes, season with salt and pepper each brick pastry sheet into 4 pieces. into small dice, about 3 mm. Halve the large central viewing atrium which looks directly down onto the water, where you can see a bowl and refrigerate until required. and cook until potato is soft. Mash capsicum and remove seeds. Cut Lay prawns flat on an oven tray lined potato and leave to cool. When fish feeding as well as the occasional passing dolphin or turtle. Le Roof serves a fine, creative Place a prawn on each piece of capsicum into small dice about 3 mm. with baking paper. Spoon (or pipe) a cold, mix egg into mashed potato cuisine, which is regarded as some of the best on the main island of New Caledonia, and pastry. Top each with a basil leaf, Place chopped shallot and diced little stuffing on each prawn. and place in a piping bag without a then roll the pastry around the prawn. tomato and capsicum in a bowl features an excellent wine list. It is located at the end of Anse Vata close to the Nouvata Park, nozzle. Lay 8 sheets of spring roll pastry Seal pastry using a little egg white. on a bench. Pipe a length of sweet with 3 tbsp olive oil, a little salt and Ramada Plaza and Le Méridien Hotels. pepper and the saffron. Mix well then potato on one side of each sheet Bring oil to 160°C. Carefully place the then roll the pastry up to trap the refrigerate for about 4 hours. prawn rolls into the hot oil and leave filling. Brush pastry with a little melted for about 30 seconds or until lightly butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Steam or boil peeled sweet potatoes until soft. Drain potatoes then pass golden. Drain rolls on paper. Cut a cross at the top of 4 figs. Then them through a mouli or blend to a drizzle 1/2 tbsp of honey over each purée. Mix in hot milk and season well Decorate 4 plates with lines of fig and top with a small knob of the with salt and pepper. Keep potato balsamic vinegar and lines of mango remaining butter. mousseline warm. mayonnaise. Place 6 prawn rolls on each plate. Serve extra mango Meanwhile, cook vinegar and Heat remaining oil in a non-stick pan. mayonnaise on the side. sugar in a saucepan until it starts to Cook fish for 3-4 minutes on each side. Mustard Sauce caramelise. Cut the remaining 2 figs Transfer fish to 4 warm plates. 3 tbsp cream into small pieces, add to the pan and 2 tbsp Dijon-style mustard cook for about 10 minutes. After 10 Remove excess fat from the pan juice of 1/2 lemon minutes stir in the cream, boil briefly, and cook foie gras for 20 seconds salt and freshly ground black pepper then blend figs to a purée. Cook on each side. Place foie gras on top Warm the cream in a bowl –it must not spring rolls and figs in the preheated of fish. Serve sweet potato (it can boil. Add mustard, lemon juice and a oven for about 15 minutes. Cook duck little salt and pepper and whip together fillets in a frying pan, skin side down be moulded in a ring) and diced for 1 minute. for about 5 minutes. Then finish duck vegetables next to the fish in the oven by baking for about 10 and serve. To Finish minutes at 200°C. Rest duck for 10 Bake prawns for 5 minutes in an minutes before serving. oven pre-heated to 200°C. Unmould Gabriel’s Comments “A meal at 1881 is a great escape. 1881 is a very vegetable millefeuille and using a sharp romantic restaurant with one of the best views Place 2 potato rolls on each plate. knife cut into 4 rectangles about 10 cm in New Caledonia. The delicious food served by Top each with thin slices of duck then x 2 cm. Spoon (or pipe) a few lines of Gabriel’s Comments Melanesian staff dressed in their colourful clothing with a roast fig. Serve the fig sauce “A visit to ‘Le Roof’ is always a special treat, The food and wine are excellent, but there’s the huge bonus of the mustard sauce onto 4 plates. Top with makes it a charming venue for lunch or dinner”. either on the side of the plate or it wonderful sea view, and occasionally, to the delight of diners, a glimpse of a dolphin or turtle swimming in the vegetable millefeuille and 5 prawns for waters next to the restaurant. It’s a memorable place for lunch or dinner”. For reservation call (687) 25 07 00. each plate. Serve immediately. For reservations call (687) 24 00 42. can be drizzled over the duck meat.

10 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 11 Vin rouge ou blanc? A Simple Guide to French Wines With all of the restaurants, specialist wine and are considered to be amongst the best in the world white burgundy wines are often regarded as the make mostly dry, sweet and sparkling wines. gourmet shops and the supermarkets, there are and are priced accordingly. best white wine in the world, with Chablis wines Gamay is the grape used to make the light red hundreds of excellent French wines available in delicious and good value – try a ‘petit chablis’. wine of Beaujolais. New Caledonia. The difficulty for the tourist is Pinot Noir is the main grape There are also a few wines from the south of that French wine labels are not written in English used in the fine reds of Burgundy France which are labelled as ‘chardonnay’, and Chenin Blanc is used to make the sparkling wine of and generally don’t indicate the grape variety. (Bourgogne). The best red Burgundy are often quite good and reasonably priced. Saumur, as well as some fine dry white wines, such as They are often labelled according to region, such wines are extraordinary, but in the Vouvray and Savennières, all of which are from the as Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, Champagne, same token also quite expensive. Sauvignon Blanc is used to make the excellent and Loire region. Provence, Loire etc., so it’s handy to know which Alsace wine uses pinot noir for its affordable Sancerre and Pouilly Blanc Fumé wines, grapes are used to make the different French delicious light reds and rosés whilst both of which originate from the Loire region. Semillon is used in the dry, sweet white wines wines. Use the guide below to find some of the grape is also widely used to make champagne. Sauvignon Blanc is also one of the main grapes of the of Bordeaux. your favourites: outstanding white wines of Bordeaux. Chardonnay is an essential ingredient in making Cabernet Sauvignon is the main constituent of the champagne and is used to make most of the Riesling is used in the excellent white wines of fine red wines of Bordeaux. The top Bordeaux wines white wines of Burgundy and of Chablis. French Alsace and has a flowery perfume. It is used to A fromage affair A Guide to French Cheeses “Cheese is probably the best of all foods, as wine is the best of all beverages”. – Patience Gray, 1957 The reputation of French cheeses is second to none, and according to recent estimates there are about 500 different cheeses produced in France today. Although we get the chance to taste only a few of these wonderful cheeses in Australia and due to customs restrictions, there are a plethora of delectable delicacies in Nouméa to fulfil your inner connoisseur. Add these French favourites to your shopping list:

White soft-ripened cheeses there are several regions in France which make The most celebrated members of the soft-ripened chèvre cheese, particularly the Loire, Provence, family of French cheeses are camembert and brie. Burgundy and the Alps.

Camembert is the most copied cheese in Some chèvre cheeses are dusted with ash, some the world with many imposters claiming the are wrapped in leaves to keep them moist and name. Those in the know will tell you that some are rolled in herbs. Most, however, come as genuine camembert is made using cow’s milk in a white fresh cream cheese and there are many Normandy. Generally this cheese is about 11cm shapes – small cylinders, cones, pyramids, logs, in diameter and 3cm high. The rind should be ovals, shallow disks and even in small bowls. The covered in white mould with darker strips and texture of chèvre cheese varies from soft to firm stains, with the inside a creamy yellow. The and the taste from delicately creamy to strong cheese ripens from under the rind to the centre, and acidic. so when the centre is really soft the cheese is very ripe. Most goat cheeses are sold under the generic name of ‘chèvre’ but many have an individual name, such A Delicious Taste of Regional France can be found in New Caledonia. Brie is a mild, as Saint-Marcellin (made from goat and cow’s milk), delicately Pyramide and Sainte-Maure from the Loire region and Banon from Provence. Saint Nectaire, from the Auvergne region in the Fourme d’Ambert is one of the mildest of Wherever you go in Nouméa you get a taste of one or several of the wonderful regions of flavoured cow’s centre of France, is a delicious cow’s milk cheese the blue cheeses, and has a creamy texture with milk cheese with a supple, silky texture. Like Port Salut, it is a nutty flavour. This cheese is one of France’s that is made in Semi-Soft Cheeses Many of the finest semi-soft cheeses were first made an ancient cheese with a nutty flavour that melts oldest and dates back to Roman times. During France through the food - French bread and cheeses, wine, mineral water and smallgoods. the shape of a easily in the mouth. the aging process, the cheese is injected with a wheel. When in monasteries during the Middle Ages. They have washed rinds, often with an orange tinge, and are sweet white wine weekly. For this reason, it is brie reaches its best had with sweet wine, like sauternes. Paris The two chefs featured in this issue of Bon bouillabaisse and tuna. The beautiful olive oils available in Nouméa. Just north of Bordeaux the prime the skin creamy with a velvety texture and mild to strong The taste of Paris, Appétit come from this region. and olives from Provence are available in gourmet local vignerons make the famous cognac spirit. becomes more golden in colour and the inside is aroma – sometimes they smell stronger than they taste. Enjoy these tasty morsels with some good Semi-Hard and Hard Cheeses which is where the baguette and the brioche were stores, and the wines of the region are lovely, creamy. The finest brie cheeses are named after bread, wine or beer. The myriad of delicious French hard cheeses are created, is everywhere in Nouméa, especially in Burgundy especially the delicate rosés. The Massif Central the town or village from which they originate, made in the mountainous regions of the country, e.g. brie de Meaux, brie de Melun, brie de Nangis. the boulangeries (bakeries). The king of French South-west of Alsace is the celebrated East of the south-west region is where Port Salut such as the Alps and the Pyrenees. Most of the cheeses, the creamy brie, was created just outside wine and food region of Burgundy where the best The Pyrenees and many of the tastiest French cheeses are made. French brie has a fuller flavour than an Australian cheeses are formed as large wheels and some brie–style cheese. developed by monks Paris on the way to the region of Champagne. chardonnay and pinot noir wines in the world are Basque Regions Saint Nectaire, a washed rind, Fourme d’Ambert, in Brittany in the have ‘holes’ or ‘eyes’. made. These wines are available in Nouméa’s best Travelling west from Provence, and just north an outstanding blue, and Cantal, a cheddar-style Goat cheeses (Chèvre) – The French produce early 19th Century, Champagne wine stores and restaurants, and on the menu of , lie the Pyrenees and Basque regions. cheese, are all available at the best supermarkets. has an elastic, creamy Blue-Veined Cheeses are the aristocrat of the Cantal is thought to be France’s oldest cheese, about two-thirds of the world’s goat cheeses and cheese world and France has made ‘bleu’ for about and is believed to have been the model for The taste of this region comes from a bottle, of Nouméa’s restaurants you’ll see wonderful Nouméa’s supermarkets offer outstanding ewe’s South of the Massif Central is the home of texture and a mild Burgundian specialities, such as snails, coq milk cheeses and hams from this part of France and Armagnac, and Roquefort blue cheese which is very flavour. When young, 2000 years. There are many delicious French ‘bleu’ English cheddar. It has a firm, smooth texture producing the finest sparkling wine in the world, and cheeses – some are soft and creamy, while others are and mild nutty flavour and is sold in slices which au vin and boeuf bourguignon. they’re delicious in a sandwich made with a baguette much loved by living in Nouméa. Port Salut has a in Nouméa you’ll find dozens of varieties harder and crumbly. They’re all a bit piquant, with come from a large cylinder weighing about 40 kg. and a little French butter. Miam-Miam! mild and delicate of the bubbly stuff, from affordable, non- aroma and with a that distinctively strong flavour. vintage champagne at the supermarket to the Beaujolais The Loire bit of age it develops Gruyère is the generic most exquisite and rare vintages in the many South of Burgundy is the Beaujolais The South-West North of the Massif Central is Gabriel’s an overpoweringly Roquefort the king of blue cheeses, is a favourite name for large firm fine wine shops or at the top restaurants. region, the home of the easy-drinking, young, North of the Basque regions is the south- native region, which makes some of the best goat strong smell. with those who love their blue strongly flavoured. cheeses with eyes or light red called beaujolais. The French love to west – a region that takes its gastronomy very cheeses in the world, and some of the Interestingly, it is made from sheep’s milk and holes such as Emmental, Alsace chill their beaujolais slightly before drinking it, seriously. The great speciality here is duck, best value French white wines, like Livarot is named after a village in Normandy, and is matured for two to three months in cool, damp and Beaufort and Compté. These cheeses are delicious Many of the early French migrants and you’ll find this fruity wine in every especially foie gras, the flavoursome, fine duck sancerre, a sauvignon blanc, and one of the oldest cheeses in France. A strong-tasting breezy limestone caves. One of the most popular and are particularly who came to New Caledonia originated from wine store in Nouméa. It’s a great wine liver pâte. Nouméa has its own foie gras maker, muscadet, the preferred wine of cow’s milk cheese from Normandy, Livarot has a spicy blue varietals, Roquefort is creamy with a strong, flavour yet upon consumption it melts in the mouth. popular with children. Alsace, and the wines from this region are to enjoy on the balcony of your and it’s available in gourmet shops, butchers many oyster fanatics. sharp flavour and is delicious in salads. unique and well appreciated by connoisseurs the hotel while watching the sun set. and supermarkets. Foie gras is world over. You’ll find such wines in Nouméa’s delicious eaten with bread or Brittany and Normandy wine shops and supermarkets - try a dry, fruity Côte Du Rhône , but make sure you keep it North-west of the Loire Valley are these riesling, a spicy, floral gewürztraminer, or an The Rhône area is famous refrigerated and out of the heat. very genteel regions, home of the best butter in exotic tokay, silvaner or pinot gris. for its flavoursome red wines With your foie gras enjoy a glass France, as well as of cider and calvados. It’s here Meet the French Cheese Master called Côte du Rhône, which is often of sweet sauterne wine which is that some of France’s best creamy cheeses, like The award-winning French Cheese Ambassadors naturally, answering any questions you may have. The You’ll be able to try Alsace cuisine at ‘Les made with shiraz grapes and, therefore, popular also from the south-west region. camembert and Pont L’Evêque are made. There Gérard Poulard and his son Olivier will be visiting Poulards travel the world with their exclusive program, 3 Brasseurs’ restaurant, where they serve amongst . These wines are found in are a few native Bretons who’ve opened crêperies New Caledonia in May 2008 to share their wealth of and usually visit New Caledonia every year around Flammekueche, a sort of flat pizza with a most wine stores and the cheaper ones are usually Many of the regional specialities can be found in in Nouméa where they prepare delicious, large, knowledge on the amazing variety of French cheeses. May. They will be at Le Méridien Nouméa (the closest delicious choice of toppings, and the famous lighter than the more expensive ones. the two super gourmet stores of Nouméa, called ‘galettes’, which are filled Their entertaining and informative program includes they will get to Australia) from 13 to 24 May 2008, choucroûte (sauerkraut), a dish of cured cabbage ‘La Comtesse du Barry’ and ‘Maison Balande’. with a variety of ingredients, like cheese, eggs, the presentation of a variety of superb cheeses, but seats are strictly limited. To make a reservation with sausages, smoked pork loin and other Provence ham, mushrooms. tastings, composing presentation, suggested orders for Le Méridien Sextant Restarant seaside and smallgoods. As in Alsace, ‘Les 3 Brasseurs’, The cuisine of Provence in the south of More than anything else, the region is famous for of tasting, proposing gustative associations (breads, cheese degustation please call (687) 26 50 00 or email make a range of beers to suit all tastes. Many France is well-suited to New Caledonia’s climate. the wines of Bordeaux (claret) which can vary This short Tour de France gives you a soupçon of the wine, salt meats,“foie gras”, fruits, teas, etc..) and, [email protected] food outlets also serve Quiche Lorraine which It’s a cuisine of the sun with strong flavours from ordinary wines to absolutely extraordinary taste of regional France in Nouméa. Bon Appétit! originates from the region just north of Alsace. and colours and wonderful fish dishes, such as wines costing a small fortune, and all are 12 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 13 A Menu of Recommended Restaurants Gabriel’s Gourmet Trail de Nouméa. There are many wonderful restaurants to choose from One of the best ways to on page 14). There is even a in New Caledonia. Here is a discover the Nouméa large supermarket that displays selection of the finest to be Gourmet Experience is to products in Australian dollars and found in Nouméa. explore the many different even accepts Australian dollars. precincts individually. Le Relais de la Vallée is a very Port Moselle Le Roof is a very good restaurant, Not far from the city small, quaint restaurant, behind that is actually built over the the Géant supermarket located Anse Vata centre is Baie water, some 100 metres from the This attractive tourist area features between the city and Baie de Ste Marie. shore. It serves a fine, creative cuisine in de la Moselle It is owned by a couple from France, who most of the major hotels in which is home a superb setting overlooking the water Nouméa including the 5 Star Le offer an excellent menu and wine list. It is at Anse Vata offering some of the best to the main Méridien, Ramada Plaza, Nouvata located approximately 5 to 7 minutes by views in Nouméa, as well as a viewing marina and car or taxi from most major hotels. Make atrium in the middle, where you can see Park, Le Pacifique, La Promenade the colourful sure you book to ensure you get a table. fish feeding as well as the occasional and Le Surf. Featured restaurants Nouméa Market. The market is Located at 39 rue Charleroi at Valee des passing dolphin or turtle. It is located in this issue of Bon Appétit include a must for a traditional French Colons – Telephone (687) 25 28 39. at the end of Anse Vata close to the La Coupole, Le Bilboquet Plage, breakfast at the vibrant central Nouvata Park, Ramada Plaza and Le Le Miretti Gascon, Le Roof, café, and you can then stroll Méridien Hotels - Telephone (687) 25 07 L’Hippocampe and Restaurant at your leisure to take in the 00 - See restaurant profile on page 9. 360. The Singing Nuns is a few sights, sounds and smells of the minutes away along the coast wide choice of foods, fruits and Le Bilboquet Plage is a popular road. There is also a range of other vegetables and flowers for sale French brasserie-style restaurant restaurants and cafés including (see story on page 16). It is from situated in a tropical garden Chinese, Italian and pizza, this marina that the boats leave facing the sea, providing a lunch and seafood, coffee, and a choice of evening service. In addition to the for Amédée Island and Coral snack and ice cream bars, as well L’Eau Vive (the Water of Life) ‘fraîcheur du jour’ dishes of the day, Palms Island Resort, and is home is also known as the ‘Singing and New Caledonian specialities, the as an excellent butcher to many yacht charters. At night Nuns Restaurant’ as it is run by a menu offers you a very wide choice: and several small the car park of the market area religious order. It was established many mixed salads, seafood and fish from the supermarkets. is transformed with a small fun years ago and serves traditional French lagoon, fresh pasta dishes and grills. The park and a number of vans that cuisine. The ever-changing menu offers a atmosphere is warm and friendly. Locals Baie des Citrons serve a delicious selection of wonderful diversity of international dishes, often meet here for a meal after a show as Next door to Anse international foods. local New Caledonia fare and unique the restaurant remains open until midnight Vata you will find Baie specialities of the countries from which the and later on weekends. It is located in des Citrons (Lemon Bay) Dumbéa nuns come. Some say it has the best wine Anse Vata just up from the Nouvata Park which is fast becoming list in Nouméa. At any time of the evening Hotel and near the Ramada Plaza Hotel - Just a few minutes from Nouméa the most popular restaurant the nuns may suddenly break into song. It Telephone (687) 26 46 60. you will discover a nature lover’s is located near Baie Ste Marie and about and bar area with the locals. paradise. Dumbéa has much to 5 minutes from most major hotels by car or Featured restaurants in this issue offer: wild gorges and the lush taxi. Telephone (687) 28 61 23. include Côte Sud, La Fiesta and valley, the river and its many Les 3 Brasseurs. On any weeknight, places to swim, forest walks on and especially on weekends, this the slopes of the Koghi mountains, area is buzzing with casual bars the wide open spaces of the and restaurants to suit all tastes Dzumac mountains accessible and budgets. Le Sorbetier is a by four-wheel drive, mountain popular place during the day, bike or on foot, family outings to serving a delicious choice of ice Restaurant 360 is a revolving the Parc Fayard, the 18 hole golf creams and sorbets, as well as course … the list goes on. There are Le Miretti-Gascon is the oldest restaurant set on top of one of the light meals and . Le Rocher also some excellent restaurants, French restaurant in New twin towers of the Ramada Plaza crêperie and snack bar sits high Nouméa Hotel in Anse Vata, offering including the Auberge du Mt Koghi, Caledonia, situated in a warm on a hill offering superb views of the best 360 view of Nouméa. The Chef, featuring sweeping panoramic and inviting Mediterranean style country the bay. There is even an internet Didier Broux (See his profile on page 6), views of Nouméa and the lagoon, house. They serve traditional French café. And during the day you will regional cuisine from the south-west, and his team serve a delicate French the Auburge de la Rhumerie in a often find the traditional French especially foie gras, a range of duck cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, historic building with its distinctive ice cream man as he wheels his dishes, fresh meat dishes and also and the wine list is one of the best in hunting lodge décor and the specialise in fresh seafood including Nouméa. Telephone (687) 23 90 90. colourful trolley along the bay. restaurant at the golf course. lobsters, prawns, fish salad, crab salad and succulent oysters. The restaurant is located Les 3 Brasseurs (The 3 Brewers) is Nouméa City and at 24 rue Gabriel Laroque at Anse Vata, a truly unique dining experience, Latin Quarter walking distance from the Ramada Plaza where the beer is actually made The city of Nouméa is built and Nouvata Park Hotels - Telephone on the premises. Originating in the north around the Place des Cocotiers (687) 26 40 41. of France, a region with great brewing ( Square), which is a traditions, they wanted to large and very pleasant area recreate the bordered by palm and flame atmosphere trees. Surrounding this square Sarraméa and of traditional is a vibrant shopping district, You should also consider a La Chaumière is one of the most breweries from which includes a wide variety of Drive’n’Dine to these regions that established French restaurants the past. It offers cafés and restaurants. Featured are a short drive on good roads in Nouméa, a favourite with specialities establishment that is reasonably priced restaurants in this issue include north of Nouméa. The village of and great for a casual night out. Alban the locals due to its exciting menu and L’Hippocampe or ‘The Seahorse’ is of the north La Chaumière and Le Zanzibar, La Foa is famous for its homely and his team offer a menu of highly creative French cuisine, located in the the gourmet restaurant of La Coupole is an excellent and east of original cuisine full of the warmth of Latin Quarter at 13 rue du Dr Gueguan - while Restaurant 1881 is just a meals, crab and other seafoods. A Le Méridien Nouméa hotel. It restaurant located between the France, with Restaurant 1881 is a seaside sunny south-west France and Spain. La Telephone (687) 27 24 62. few minutes from the city centre. little further north-east, Sarraméa is is a very sophisticated establishment, delightful Anse Vata and Baie an extensive restaurant that enjoys a rich Fiesta is true to its name and turns into a Near the Square you will find the situated within the mountain range combining the elegance and ‘plaisir de des Citrons, which is close to many of menu. Try the history, as it is located in the popular nightclub after dinner. It is open famous Comtesse du Barry with and for a long time concentrated vivre’ for which Le Méridien is synonymous. the major hotels. It’s a great place for flammekueche, grounds of the former penal settlement. daily. Telephone (687) 26 21 33. Le Zanzibar is a popular place its excellent choice of French on coffee cultivation. In fact, there Talented chef, Claude Ségard, heads up groups, and wine buffs will be delighted a delicious It is one of Nouméa’s most exciting with the locals and serves food and wines. There is an is a 100 year old coffee the kitchen, and his wife, Shona, is the with the extensive list of excellent French style of thin dishes from around the world. restaurants with a romantic setting. It excellent range of classic French that produced coffee which pastry chef. Their modern contemporary wines, especially the Bordeaux inclusions. pizza from Côté Sud is a superb It is known for the inspired touch has one picturesque over-water dining cuisine uses the best available local Try one of the foie gras (goose liver pâte) Alsace. It’s lovely to sit outside on the establishment with a great and originality of its cuisine with the room on a deck facing the bay with a boulangeries (bakeries) and was flown to France specially for ingredients. It offers a creative and dishes prepared by Fabrice Louyot, balcony overlooking the Baie des Citrons. hillside view of the beautiful Baie flavour of the south of France. It is superb sea view, and the main dining pâtisseries with a superb choice President Chirac. Here you will also imaginative cuisine as well as traditional the excellent chef de cuisine (see his Telephone (687) 24 15 16. des Citrons. It has been described as ‘like located in the Nouméa town centre, room set in a Colonial-style building with of breads, baguettes, cakes and find some great dining experiences, French specialities, accompanied by a profile on page 7), while the pastry cook walking into a restaurant in the middle in a renovated French Colonial house, an enchanting décor. It is situated on an pastries. There are two superb including some excellent country large selection of wines. It is situated in the produces some absolutely beautiful La Fiesta is a great place for a of Paris’ with formal white table cloths dating back to the 19th century, at the historical site at 98 Avenue James Cook chocolate shops, including restaurants such as Chez Mamie beautiful gardens of the 5 Star Le Méridien desserts. Located at Rocher à la Voile good time. A Basque restaurant down to the floor. It offers a very large top of the Place des Cocotiers offering in Nouville, just 5 minutes from the city Chocolats Morand (see the story and L’Evasion mountain resort. Hotel and reservations are recommended at Anse Vata next to the Le Surf Hotel - with a quaint country inn menu and serves a modern, creative a stunning view over the city from a centre - Telephone (687) 24 00 42 - See - Telephone (687) 26 50 00. Telephone (687) 26 44 11. atmosphere in Baie des Citrons, a lively French cuisine. Telephone (687) 26 28 11. balcony. Telephone (687) 25 28 00. restaurant profile on page 8. 14 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 15 A Master Chocolatier When you enter the enticing shop of master renowned Maison Pillon, winning a major Local Prawn chocolatier Patrick Morand, you are in a very special international award during his time in Paris. The delicious local seafood is one of common local variety is the ‘blue prawn’ practice sustainable aqua farming. Prawns place. Close your eyes, take in all of the wonderful the real delicacies of New Caledonia, (stylirostris prawn) which is a rarity by are free from antibiotics and artificial aromas and you could easily be in one of the finest Not one to rest on his laurels, Patrick continued reflecting the quality of the beautiful and world standards; making up less than one flavouring and regulations prevent chocolate outlets in Paris. Or you can stand outside to perfect his craft, studying with the famous bountiful tropical waters found in the per cent of the world’s production. overfeeding and overcrowding in ponds to and watch talented Mr Morand make his delicious pastry chef at the Le Notre School near Paris. world’s largest lagoon. ensure a quality end product. products through the large viewing window. They were then drawn to New Caledonia, moving to Nouméa in 1998 and opening New Caledonia has several commercial He produces a stunning range of chocolates and Chocolats Morand two years later. He returns New Caledonian prawns are smaller than prawn farms in Dumbéa, Paita, La Foa, One of the larger farms is Aquamon cakes, including exquisite pralinés, ganaches, to France every year to study new techniques many of the varieties we have in Australia , Koné and , which support near Tontouta Airport. which covers an mendicants, orangettes and truffles. He also uses and recipes and undertakes master classes with and New Zealand, but their flesh is much local demand and export. The quality of area of 40 hectares and produces up to only the very finest ingredients, including chocolate famous French pastry chef Pierre Hermé. more flavoursome and sweeter. The most the prawns is strictly controlled and farms 160 tonnes of prawns annually. from Val Rhona in France, which is widely regarded as the very finest chocolate in the world. Chocolats Morand is located near the Nouméa City Centre at 9 rue Porcheron in the Latin Mr Morand trained as a patissier in the French Quarter. Telephone (687) 27 31 77. There is also region of Normandy and then spent three years another excellent chocolate shop on the other in Switzerland. He then worked as pastry chef side of the Place des Cocotiers. Tonton Jules in Oregon in the USA, where he met his wife. features a spectacular chocolate fountain in their Shucks, the oysters are superb! They returned to Toulouse in France, and Patrick window, and is located at 7 bis rue de General worked for six years at the internationally Mangin. Telephone (687) 27 39 49. About a half hour drive north dozen or 100 tonnes of quality oysters a are very fond of oysters and local chefs of Nouméa you will discover a year … and growing. are extremely creative in the way they burgeoning enterprise - Huîtres de serve them. They produce a range of different Dumbéa (Oysters from Dumbéa). varieties of oysters, and Anthony is Their ambitious plans now include a Gourmet Foie Gras Learn a lot from the Le Rocher – a classic Here a very talented young marine continually experimenting with new major tourist development at the farm, biologist, Anthony Lavergne, and his varieties as he searches for the perfect which is under design, complete with with a delicious twist French Wine Master Brittany–style Crêperie father, who comes from the famous oyster for the region. overwater walkways over the oyster oyster region of the Atlantic coast just beds and oyster tastings with a glass of west of Cognac, are developing one The product is of such high quality French wine organised along the way. of the largest and finest oyster farms that around 80% is sold to the leading in the South Pacific. The farm has an restaurants in Nouméa, with the With such commitment to their trade amazing 50,000 hectares of oysters remainder sold at the Nouméa market and to quality, it is no surprise that the under water, producing around 100,000 and through supermarkets. The French world is their oyster!

The water is eau so good! Unlike many of its Pacific Island neighbours, New Caledonia has excellent quality drinking water from the tap on the main island and most of the outlying islands. While Evian and Perrier are typically popular French mineral water brands available on the island, New Caledonia also has its own excellent quality pure spring water, Mont-Dore which takes its name from New Caledonia’s highest peak and from where the water is bottled at the mountain’s nearby spring. French people consider Foie If you love your wines, we Relaxing in the atmosphere of Le Gras or goose liver pâte to strongly suggest that you make a Rocher crêperie at the end of be one of the most special of trip into Nouméa to the specialty Anse Vata, you could easily French foods. gourmet providore Comtesse be sitting in a traditional du Barry (Rue d’Austerlitz) and French crêperie in the Brittany Many of the foie gras are get some advice from the region of western France. naturally made in France, resident Master of Wines, However, you are actually in Are you a Coffee Connoisseur? but there is one brand, called Emilie Buton. cosmopolitan tropical Nouméa, ‘Nouméa Gourmet’ which is high on a hill offering superb views of The French are serious coffee were already famous by the time the both Winston Churchill and French connoisseurs, and coffee is an first colonists arrived to the region over President . actually prepared in Nouméa by creative, Originating from Bordeaux, neighbouring Baie des Citrons. established way of life for the French 100 years ago. In fact, coffee was Special excursions are available to tour French-trained chef, Gerald Ittah, who for many years Emilie has worked and studied and New Caledonians. So it’s no great introduced to New Caledonia in 1874 the coffee plantation and learn the has developed a unique approach to the production of extensively across France’s major wine-growing regions Julien, a Breton and the crêperie owner, is totally surprise that in addition to serving by Governor Feillet who brought over coffee process from ‘bean to cup’. The foie gras using his own special recipes. and is charged with stocking Comtesse Du Barry and dedicated to keeping the tradition of delicious savoury a vast array of coffee varieties, some settlers to cultivate the crop. tour takes visitors on an easy walking its sister shop Maison Ballande with an impressive and sweet crêpes as in his native Brittany. New Caledonia also grows coffee trek through the deep valleys of the Chef Ittah, a prizewinner at the Hotel School of Paris, wine cellar. locally, with the most famous variety Today, New Caledonia is moving plantation showing different varieties, started in France with famous chefs such as Pierre The savoury crêpes are called ‘galettes’ and are made produced in the perfectly suited towards the production of ‘special the growing process and its influence Gagnaire. He decided to settle in Nouméa several years Emilie conducts regular wine tastings on the cellar floor with buckwheat flour and cooked on a traditional mountainous forest area of Sarraméa, varieties’ such as the Arabica, le on the final product. The tour takes ago. Using his strong knowledge of traditional French (the original cobbled street of Nouméa) and can make large, metal plate. The result is a very thin, crisp crêpe north of Nouméa. Kouilou on the west coast and the around 2 hours and costs 400 XPF per Robusta on the east coast. The person (A$5.60). Contact the Sarraméa cooking, he was inspired to enhance the flavour using suggestions to fit any budget or taste. with a nutty flavour. A galette is always garnished with Coffee cherries were cultivated as part high quality of Sarraméa’s coffee is Tourist Office on (687) 44 39 55. the finest and freshest local fruits and spices. Mixing something and is a meal in itself – great for lunch with of the country’s early development and well known and it was favoured by Price calculated at April 2008 in the delicate flavours from the Pacific Islands, Those more confident, should take a trip to any of the a glass of apple cider from Brittany. such as vanilla, mango, lychee, fig and orange. The local supermarkets where you can pick up a good French subtle blend of quality foie gras and natural perfumes white or red wine for under A$10 and a bottle of quality The most popular galette filling is made with cheese, extracted from tropical fresh fruits results in a truly French champagne for around A$50. ham and egg, but you can also have sausage and potato, unique and delicious product. smoked salmon or scallops with , and there are A world first - don’t miss the Beaujolais Launch more than twenty different choices. A sweet crêpe can Make sure you store the foie gras in the refrigerator True wine lovers would be wise to book a trip to New be garnished with poached pears, chocolate sauce and soon after buying it and remove it just before serving. Growth of Vanilla and Avocado Caledonia in November in time for the annual Beaujolais ice-cream or perhaps orange with Grand Marnier. Cut it into slices between 5 mm to 1 cm, using a knife launch – the official tasting of the latest release wines Among the most celebrated of The annual Avocado Fair is held in Mare in both sweet and savoury dishes – if you have with a thin blade. Foie gras is used in cooking by chefs from the world famous Beaujolais region. If French crêpes are not your thing, but you still want New Caledonia’s local produce is the excellent May (1-4 May 2008) and Agricultural Island the opportunity to taste it paired with fish or seafood it’s unconventional but delicious. but it’s best enjoyed with toasted sourdough bread and a to enjoy the magnificent view, the menu extends to a vanilla and avocados. Grown in the pristine Fair is held during , also in Mare (12-14 September 2008) where vanilla is sold Vanilla is grown on the island of , the glass of wine. Typically held on the third Thursday in November, variety of gourmet salads and entrées. But really, the environments present in the Loyalty Islands, by the Loyalty Island’s Vanilla Association. largest of the Loyalty Islands. and you can New Caledonia has the unique position of being 10 galettes are outstanding and very popular with kids so you can sample both at the local markets, on take an informative tour of the plantation Chef Ittah will soon be opening a shop in La Vallée des Le Rocher also offers a menu enfant. hours ahead of mainland France and therefore the the menu of the top restaurants and if you’re within the forest at Macaweng. For more Colons suburb, near the Géant Supermarket at 30 rue New Caledonia’s vanilla is among the best first official French territory to taste the new crop information contact the Loyalty Islands Charleroi. However, you can buy Nouméa Gourmet well timed at the Agricultural Fairs held on in the world for its quality and preferred by of wines. The wine is typically tasted in conjunction Le Rocher crêperie and snack bar is located at 55 Tourist Office on (687) 28 93 60. the island of Mare during the year. the island’s top chefs who use it creatively in Foie Gras at supermarkets or gourmet shops and it is with a feast and several special events take place as Promenade Roger Laroque, Anse Vata on the hill also served in selected restaurants. part of the celebration. behind Le Surf hotel. Tel (687) 25 35 75. 16 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 17 Nouméa’s Market – Le Marché de Nouméa Gourmet and specialty stores in Nouméa Regional Markets

While the biggest and most accessible local market is in Nouméa, if you are spreading your wings it is worth visiting many of the other fresh food markets to enjoy the variety of produce on offer.

The Isle of Pines Market features fruits, vegetables and fresh seafood including lobsters. It is open every Wednesday and Saturday from 6:00 am to 11:00 am in Vao.

Monte-Dore Market, just south of Nouméa, offers fruit and vegetables, fresh flowers, plants and deli items. Open every Saturday 6:30 am to 12 noon at the Casino Shopping Centre.

Sarraméa Market in the mountains has a variety of produce including those from the local highlands. Open on the last Sunday of each month from 8.30 am to 12 noon.

Each time I visit Nouméa, I can’t resist the market, situated in At La Buvette you can sit back and relax, while observing Be sure to keep your eye out for Port Moselle at the border of the town centre and the Quartier the colourful locals in their flowery clothes shopping for the some of the delicious local country Latin. My favourite time of the day to venture there is around 8 family meal, and all around the café are souvenir and fabric offerings such as creamy local (Niaouli) honey, jams, crystallized am before the warmth of the day tells you it’s time for a swim. shops tended by vendors of mostly Melanesian, Vietnamese tropical fruits, nuts – candlenut As in the streets of Paris, gourmet shops can be found around Nouméa names in French to know where to go. For example, a patisserie is a cake/ or Indonesian origin. The largest section sells tropical fruits, or pandanus nuts – Niaouli flower specialising in different produce sourced both locally and brought in from pastry shop; boulangerie is a bakery; epicurie is a delicatessen; boucherie is a After a quick walk through the three open market halls and vegetables, spices and herbs of all shapes, sizes and colours. or Blackwood liqueurs, venison France or nearby countries. It’s good to have a working knowledge of store butcher; supermarché is a supermarket; and roulette is a food van. before any shopping’s been accomplished, it’s time for The next largest section offers fresh fish and seafood, and sausages or the popular local pickles breakfast at La Buvette du Marché, the market’s café. although much of the fish is different from what we see in called ‘achards’. Here they serve ‘café’ like in France – petit noir (short Australia, you’ll recognise tuna, varieties of snapper, coral trout, black), noisette (short macchiato) and café au lait crayfish, locally farmed prawns and oysters. True culinary explorers may be Comtesse Du Barry Maison Ballande roads between the resorts and Nouméa as many resist - A La Vieille France near the city centre is one tempted to try unusual local offer a selection of fresh baguettes, cheeses, pâtes indulgent example. You’ll also find great selections (flat white) in a large porcelain bowl that gives you Recommendations are many but no shopping Comtesse du Barry’s sister shop Maison Ballande delicacies which include fruit bat and drinks that make a tasty meal on the go. at the local supermarkets such as Casino which has the chance to dunk your croissant or jam baguette. There are also several smaller shops selling pâtes and terrines, expedition would be complete without a visit to (located at Baie de l’Orphelinat) stocks an excellent (rousettte) on the Loyalty Islands, a bakery on site and daily produces slices, flans, They serve fresh fruit juice, exotic jams, such as and all kinds of take-away food - French-style, Vietnamese Comtesse Du Barry (Rue d’Austerlitz near the city range of gourmet products and has regular wood grubs (ver de bancoule) in Boucheries (butchers) in Nouméa are skilled in filled croissants, tarts and éclairs. papaya and banana, and you can also order a and Indonesian. The market is the perfect place to shop for a centre). A prominent gourmet store in France – tastings. The shop is also well stocked with fresh Faro and snails (escargots) on the French specialities, cuts and delicacies so you can croque monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich), croque picnic or a meal to take back to your room. The market (Marché their catalogues are well sought after – Comtesse local produce and shares the equally impressive Isle of Pines. find everything from duck (canard) to pigeon to the For a typical French experience, another ‘cheat’ madame (toasted ham and cheese sandwich with an egg), Municipal) opens daily from about 5 am to midday. du Barry has an outlet in downtown Nouméa wine selection with Comtesse du Barry. locally reared beef and venison. There is an excellent is to pick up a snack from the many food vans toasted bread, panini with ham or chicken … and much more. — Gabriel Gaté where you can stock up on a range of excellent boucherie at Anse Vata near the Ramada Plaza which (roulettes) and snack bars around the seafront. pâtes, terrines, foie gras, rilletes, prepared duck Another outlet in Anse Vata is Millésime which offers a superb range of smallgoods, sliced meats for You’ll find a cheap and delicious selection of treats cassoulets and desserts including soufflé, poached has a good range of gourmet produce and wines. your baguettes and delicious pre-prepared meals. from fresh stuffed baguettes, paninis, crêpes, pizza fruits and jellies. Comtesse du Barry also stocks You can also try the nearby Le Pavillon des Vins Once again, the markets also have butchers stands slices, springs rolls, waffles (gaufres) and ice creams. an excellent selection of spirits and wines from (pictured above) and La Vinothèque for both that have bacon, cured meats, freshly made pâtes, La Bretonne on Anse Vata Bay is one of the most its cellar that cater to any budget and the staff can French and other imported wines. sausages and cooked meats. popular crêperies, where you can have a made to help you to match wine with your food purchases. order sweet or savoury snack. For example a sweet white wine goes very well Local shops and markets Fresh bread is abundant in the many boulangeries with foie gras. You’ll find a helpful French wine Even if you’re short on time, it’s worth ducking (bakers) and pâtisseries (pastry shops) around town, guide on page 11. into the small general shops dotted along the main and you’ll find the decadent pastries very hard to

The Supermarkets – Les Supermarchés

New Caledonian supermarkets are quite an The highlight is, of course, the cheese section. experience, and it’s really worthwhile to visit French cheeses are out of this world and I can one of the larger ones to see the array of never resist buying two or three varieties to French-style food and wine. enjoy a special treat under a coconut tree.

Most supermarkets have a take-away section And, of course, when you say cheese, you say where you can buy crudités and mixed wine! All the supermarkets in Nouméa sell a salads, quiche Lorraine, and very good selection of wine, ranging from all kinds of interesting ready-to- the affordable to the very special more Gourmet DIY reheat meals, such as vol extravagant bottles. au vents, duck confit and While the clear prerequisite for a true gourmet holiday is enjoying the local cuisine in top An experience not to be missed for any is to jump in a taxi or on the public bus cooked dishes. On a recent trip I particularly enjoyed eateries prepared by first class local chefs, Nouméa makes it so easy to take a more and head to Nouméa to spend a morning visiting the markets and shops, picking up a visit to the Casino Johnston immersive approach to the experience by preparing your own gourmet feast. After all, goodies for a meal, snack or an afternoon picnic on the beach, on the nearby islands or It’s particularly interesting supermarché, next to the cruise ship there’s nothing better than enjoying your local ‘catch’ of the day from the fresh the beautiful botanic gardens. produce markets, supermarkets or excellent specialty stores. to examine the smallgoods section, terminal near the city centre, which As in the French way of life, most food shopping is done daily rather than weekly, referred to as ‘la charcuterie’ - the actually lists some prices in both French with locals purchasing their supplies for breakfast lunch and dinner during the day Nouméa now has a range of apartment-style accommodation for those French salamis, pâtes, terrines and all sorts of Pacific and displays the equivalent price in and improvising based on what’s in season or looks good in the market. In fact, it’s serious about preparing their own à la carte menus, but for those staying other preparations are unique and delicious, Australian dollars … and even accepts Australian common for bread to be purchased three times a day so it’s fresh for each meal. at the excellent hotels and resorts there are also plenty of opportunities to especially when paired with French bread. dollars (giving you change in the local currency). The result is a continued focus on the best and freshest produce wherever possible. enjoy your own informal meal without the use of an oven or microwave. 18 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 19

Food for thought! The richness and So many markets and diversity of New festivals … and much more! Caledonian cuisine stems from the New Caledonia celebrates its plentiful bounty in so many wonderful and mix of people who colourful ways. There are markets and prepare it. However, festivals happening throughout the country,during the year. Some on a there is no specific regular basis, and others to celebrate New Caledonian some special events. gastronomy. All tastes The Giant Omelette Festival – are catered for – from Dumbéa every year in April. the Melanesian method This is held during the second of braising food, weekend after Easter, and features the making of a truly giant omelette which is steaming it for Asians, then shared with those attending. Around a accompanied by a dozen chefs make a huge 3.5 metre diameter omelette using some 7,000 eggs. The festival sauce for European dates back to the time when Napoleon and his dishes or raw in the army were travelling in the south of France. Tahitian manner. Napoleon stopped the night in a town where the local inn keeper made him an omelette. He liked it so much, the next day, he ordered the townspeople to gather all the eggs in the village New Caledonian Cuisine and create a giant omelette for his soldiers. The Avocado Festival – Mare (Loyalty Islands) in May. Avocados from Mare, the Fruit and Vegetables Seafood second largest of the Loyalty Islands, are renowned for their high quality New Caledonia has an enviable array of fresh, Because New Caledonia is which is celebrated during the annual surrounded by the largest Avocado Festival. delicious local produce cultivated by its tropical lagoon in the world, seafood is of the highest quality and also very climate and diverse terrain incorporating islands, varied. There is something for everyone, from fish and shellfish, to The Coffee Festival – mountain regions, rainforest and pristine waters. crabs and crayfish. Sarraméa in August. The coffee plantation in A trip to the local markets is a must to enjoy trying the There is a great variety of fish in New Caledonian waters. Raw or Sarraméa, just north of Nouméa, is worth a cooked, the consumer has the choice between fish such as mahi many mouth-watering fruits and vegetables available visit. The 670 acre farm is located at the foot mahi, dawas, rougets, picots and parrotfish. Oysters are of excellent from the region. Staples such as , bananas, of the Dogny Plateau, a massif which is part quality, served in most leading restaurants and available from the So many perfect picnic spots of the impressive Central New Caledonian pineapples, papayas, mangos, passion fruits, main market and supermarkets. Range. The coffee is of such high quality, fruits – oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit and So, you’re loaded up with a Just a very short distance Perched on the heights of that former French President Jacques Chirac mandarins - are plentiful but often smaller and The prawn produced in New Caledonia is a top of the range prawn insisted on having it flown to Paris for his decadent basket of gourmet from Anse Vata, the island Montravel, the Park sweeter than varieties found in Australia. of the Stylirostris type or the ‘blue prawn’, they are sweet and personal use. full of flavour. Crayfish is also a highly sought after delicacy. The goodies and wines all waiting is a favourite location for has magnificent The influence of is alive with the freshwater crayfish from the region is starting to make Bougna – a to be enjoyed, it’s only fitting and water sports views, and a pleasant A world first – the Beaujolais abundance of fruits such as lychees, guava, star fruit, its appearance on New Caledonian tables. Mangrove or coconut you now find a venue that is as such as windsurfing. You walking track that Launch in November. custard apples, pomegranates and dragon fruit – a spectacular bright crabs are which can be found on many New Caledonian spectacular as the food you can hire deck chairs and allows you to see some New Caledonia has the unique position of menus. The former are usually stuffed or served with a vinaigrette buried treasure! pink fruit with white flesh sprinkled with poppy-seed like seeds that are about to enjoy. Here are snorkel gear to explore of the local plant life and being 10 hours ahead of mainland France and and the latter, quite simply with a mayonnaise. tastes similar to kiwi fruit. Locally grown strawberries are a prized some great suggestions. and swim off lunch. birdlife including the rare flightless therefore the first official French territory to delicacy. Full of flavour and delicately sweet, when in season they are No gourmet trip to New Caledonia Cagou – New Caledonia’s national taste the new crop of wines for the annual Beaujolais launch. True wine lovers would be popular menu items in many of the top restaurants and used liberally would be complete without tasting Sail away The many beaches around Nouméa emblem. There is also an array of Meats and Regional Produce the traditional Melanesian dish, Nouméans love their boats. make great spots to soak in the parrots, geese and peacocks that wise to book a trip to New Caledonia to in the sweet treats available at many of the local pâtisseries. be the first to celebrate the latest release New Caledonian beef and venison is very good quality meat and one ‘bougna’. As a ‘barbie’ is to Aussies, In fact New Caledonia tropical atmosphere. To venture roam freely in the gardens. of the favourite foods on the Mainland. On the savoury side, venison wines from this world famous region – Root vegetable staples such as yams, , sweet potato and cassava a ‘bougna’ consists of a tantalising has one of the highest beyond the popular Anse Vata sausage, terrines, pâtés, ‘achards de trocas’ bamboo, lemons and normally on the third Thursday in are found in most local Melanesian dishes and in good supply at local array of local vegetables, meat and boat-to-resident ratios in and Baie des Citrons, take the If you want views, then why not vegetables will delight lovers of fine food. On the sweet side, papaya November. The wine is typically markets and supermarkets. Yams are to Pacific Islanders what potatoes seafood, marinated in coconut milk, the world. They know too local bus or a taxi to Kuendu head to nearby Ouen Toro, the peak tasted in conjunction with a feast jams, guava or liana apple jellies, ‘corossol’ cordial and fruit pâtes are to Australians and an excellent source of carbohydrates and wrapped in young banana leaves well that one of the best things Beach in Nouville. A favourite adjacent to Anse Vata that offers and several special events take ensure that farm produce is a sheer pleasure to the taste. vitamins B and C. is also widely used and enjoyed in a variety of and cooked in a Kanak oven, which to do on the weekend is pack up with the locals, it’s a popular spot sprawling views across Nouméa and place as part of the celebration. dishes as an excellent source of fibre, calcium and iron. is prepared with hot stones placed your boat and visit the nearby islands for picnics and a game of beach out to the islands. Or if you have The Isle of Pines snail, also known as the ’Bulime’ is an endemic land at the bottom of a sand or earth for some relaxation in the sun. There is boules on the sand. the luxury of more time, take an The Vanilla Festival – snail which is a delicacy. They are traditionally collected and cooked Lifou (Loyalty Islands) in November. You can also find a good range of vegetables and herbs which are hole and then covered with hot a wide selection of lovely small islets excursion south to Mont Dore, New in soups, bougna and à la bourguignonne. Le ver de bancoule or Lifou is world renowned for the quality of common in French and Asian cuisines including onions, cabbage, stones and leaves. within easy sailing range of Nouméa. It’s a natural Caledonia’s highest peak at 800 bancoule worm is very similar to a witchetty grub. It is a speciality product from its Vanilla , which is capsicum, squash, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, tomatoes, Asian greens, For a more natural setting, the metres high with outstanding views of the commune of (West Coast) which organises an annual used widely in New Caledonian cooking. garlic, chilli, potatoes, pumpkin and so much more! Far from a quick meal, the bougna While you can hire a boat or take wonderful botanical gardens at of Nouméa’s lagoon. market in its honour on the first Sunday in September. can take up to two hours to cook - one of the boat tours, an easy the Michel-Corbasson Zoological Festival of the . but is worth the wait. It is traditionally option is to take a water taxi out and Forest Park are just a short drive The sacred Festival of the Yam marks the served directly in the banana leaves, to Duck Island (L’île aux Canards). or stop by bus or the Le Petit Train. beginning of the yam harvest, and is the which have been delicately opened most important event in the Kanak calendar. and decorated with flowers. Usually held around mid-March, the yam is treated with the respect usually saved for an You can try a bougna at local ancestor. When the yams are declared ready Melanesian-run eateries (you will Life’s a beach by the elders, they are pulled up and presented need to book 24 hours in advance) to the older clansmen and the chief, signalling the beginning of the harvest. The yams are or if you’re on the road in the country For a decadent meal in a blessed the following day by the priest, then areas they are often offered at breathtaking setting not to distributed among the villagers. homestays. Some tours include a be forgotten, visit the Restaurant Le Kou-gny on the Isle of bougna meal – check with your hotel Various agricultural fairs are organised each concierge – and if you’re staying in Pines. Set on a stunning secluded beach you can dine on year such as the famous Fair, Nouméa venture to Kuendu Beach fresh grilled lobster and fish, bread and chilled French wine the Venison & Prawn Festival in in Nouville on a Sunday. Bring your Boulouparis, the Beef Festival in Païta with your toes in the lagoon sand. But be warned - booking appetite too as the portions are … where visitors can admire the generous and second or even third the day before is essential as the restaurant only catches animals, see a rodeo and of helpings are more than likely. the produce required on that day. course sample and buy some of the local produce. 20 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 21 Le Famous Escoffier Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846 – 1935) was a chef, restaurateur and culinary writer who revolutionised traditional French cooking Getting around is so easy! methods. He is widely acknowledged as the key figure in the modernisation of haute cuisine, and creating what would become the national cuisine of France.

Today, the name Escoffier is associated with some of the best internationally renowned schools in the world for the French gourmet and . One is in Paris, of course, and another is in Nouméa.

How Escoffier changed the face of 1903, which established the fundamentals modern cuisine. of French cookery. He created a system of parties called the ‘brigade system’, which Escoffier’s influence began with the rise of some separated the professional kitchen into of the great hotels in Europe and America five separate stations. These five stations during the 1880s and 1890s. The Savoy Hotel included the garde manger that prepared owned by César Ritz was an early hotel where New Caledonia has many exciting destinations to explore and an even larger cold dishes; the entremettier that prepared Escoffier worked, but much of his influence was soups, vegetables and desserts; the variety of ways to get to these destinations. From bicycle rental to yacht charters, realised during his management of the rôtisseur that prepared roasts, grilled and we have the resources for you to find your way around. in the Carlton from 1898 until 1921. fried dishes; the saucier that prepared sauces; and the pâtissier that prepared Escoffier simplified and organised all pastry items. This system meant that the modern menu and structure instead of one person preparing a of ‘the meal’, and also created dish on their own, now multiple cooks Drive yourself For those taking a shorter break you can easily out. The main taxi rank in Nouméa is located to the city and major tourist destinations. Operating simple recipes using the freshest would combine to prepare the explore Nouméa using local transport. Apart from on the corner of Austerlitz and Anatole France from 5am to 7pm weekdays, buses run every 15-20 in-season produce. He different components for the dish. If you’re staying in New Caledonia for longer being much cheaper it also presents an opportunity Streets in the city centre. There is also another at minutes. On weekends the schedule starts a little published a series of articles in to rub shoulders with the locals, and spend more Anse Vata. Your hotel can naturally arrange for later and finishes a little earlier, with up to 30 minutes professional journals which An example used is oeufs sur than an extended weekend, renting a car can outlined the sequence be handy to explore the surrounds outside time soaking in the tropical atmosphere. a taxi to come and pick you up. Taxis can take between departures. There are eight routes which are le plat Meyerbeer, the prior a maximum of four people and, as in Australia, numbered and colour-coded for convenience. and then finally published system would take up to fifteen Nouméa, providing driving European–style his Livre des menus in 1912. This prices are charged at fixed rates. Prices vary minutes to prepare the dish, while in Take a Taxi type of service embraced the service á la on the right hand side of the road doesn’t deter Taxis are a convenient way to get around. You depending on the traffic, as a guide from Anse The green bus goes through the city centre to the the Escoffier system, the eggs would be you. Holding an international driving licence russe, serving meals in separate courses on prepared by the entremettier, kidney can request a taxi with an English–speaking Vata to the city centre is approximately 1,200 main beaches and through to Kuendu beach in individual plates - classically from entrée to is not a necessity, as long as you have a current grilled by the rôtisseur, truffle sauce made driver, however most drivers have a command of XFP (AU$16.80). Nouville, while the blue bus goes north to the main to dessert. He also developed the first by the saucier and thus the dish could driving licence, are over 21 years old and have English that will enable you to easily get around. Magenta Airport and the Tjibaou Centre. Tickets can à la carte menu. be prepared in a much shorter time and minimum of one to two years experience. If you do find a driver with limited English a On the Buses be purchased on board or at the main bus stations for served quickly in the popular restaurants. There are plenty of options for car rental either handy tip is to ask your hotel concierge to write Nouméa has an excellent and reliable public bus around 170 XFP (A$2.40) one way. Le Guide Culinaire. As his career took French cuisine to a new at Tontouta Airport or in Nouméa. down your destination in French before you set system, which operates from near all major hotels Prices quoted atApril 2008. Escoffier’s most significant contribution was level, so too did Escoffier’s leadership the publication of Le Guide Culinaire in elevate the status of the Chef of today.

The Escoffier School of Cooking is one of the best kept secrets in Nouméa

The Escoffier Hotel Catering and Business School in Nouméa is best known for its restaurant ‘Auguste Escoffier’, which is used as a Le Pettit Train training ground for its students, who spend No trip to Nouméa is complete without three hours each a trip on the colourful Le Petit Train (The week working in this Little Train) which brings out the inner child professional kitchen. As well as providing a in even the most seasoned of travellers. training ground for students, the profits of the Winding its way around Nouméa, it’s Explore Nouméa on restaurants work to further support the school. the original ‘hop-on’-hop-off’ mode of transport to get you around to all the the Nouméa Explorer It’s one of Nouméa’s best kept secrets that major sites, or just to orientate yourself you can enjoy a first class classic French with the city. The Nouméa Explorer bus is a cheap meal at the restaurant at a fraction of the and easy way to discover Nouméa. You cost you’d pay at a noted establishment. There are two train circuits: the popular Taste of France Tour can hop on and off all day at any stops, Save with a Nature The school publishes its monthly menus for city tour (1.5 hours on the purple and at a cost of around only AU$18 per lunch and dinner each month – you can pick up a copy at the school red train) which operates five times daily This is a great way to sample all that adult and AU$9 for a child under 11 for & Culture Pass reception. However, be warned the French do best! Visit a French from Anse Vata, stopping at many of the Daily Pass. It runs every day, except Le Superb Guided Gourmet Tour due to popularity bookings bakery and learn how famous Here is a unique and convenient way the major hotels and travelling around Monday, between 8am and 4pm, with If you find yourself craving the gourmet With a focus on the favourite French Comtesse du Barry in Nouméa where can be hard to secure. baguettes and other breads are to see six of Nouméa’s ‘must see’ tourist the bays to the local market, city centre stops at nearly all major hotels. Tickets treats of Paris, the glittering French Riviera degustation, Superb take their visitors can experience sophisticated made. Visit a Créperie and sample attractions, discover New Caledonia’s and up to the Parc Forestier Botanical can be purchased on board or ask your and the finer things in life, but are short on travelling on a carefully planned French food, presentations For the first time some delectable delights before rich cultural and natural diversity … Australians can now Gardens; and the cultural tour (4 hours hotel for tickets as well. time, then the good news is you can have five day appreciation tour to savour by a French Master of Wine some shopping at the colourful and save money at the same time. The attend cooking classes on the green and gold train) which all this and more just a short flight away. delicious French foods, wines and wine tasting at the markets! Then it’s onto a wine cellar Pass gives you entry to the Aquarium, at Escoffier in Nouméa departs Anse Vata and major hotels on The Explorer bus visits all major tourist and gastronomic experiences. cellar door. Wednesday and Thursday afternoons to learn all about the art of French attractions in Nouméa, so it is a great Tjibaou Culture Centre, City of Nouméa through Superb Food The incomparable French food and The program offers the and Wine Tours as part of a fantastic gourmet and takes the trip north to the Tjibaou wine making before enjoying some and convenient way to get around Museum, Museum of New Caledonia, wine experience once found only finest dining in Nouméa’s Not ignoring the experience. The itinerary includes French wine tasting and French gourmet Maritime Museum and Parc Forestier Cultural Centre via some of Nouméa’s … at your own pace. Stops include in France is now in easy, less best restaurants and the fantastic French Pacific cooking classes over two days from reputable specialities - just perfect. Nature Reserve – see page 3 for more beautiful colonial houses. the Maritime Museum, Handicraft expensive reach - only 2 opportunity to meet with highly setting, the itinerary teachers at the Escoffier School. information on each. The Le Petit Train Market, Port Moselle Market, Museum hours from Brisbane and qualified chefs and sommeliers. also includes tours The 3 hour tour is organised by the and Nouméa Explorer Bus described on Costs vary from 1,100- 1,300 XFP for of New Caledonia, Baie des Citrons. 2.5 hours from Sydney of Nouméa’s most You can even visit the colourful market to Nouméa Explorer company with this page visit all of these venues, and purchase ingredients with help from Escoffier adults (A$ 15.40-$18.20) and 550-700 Anse Vata, Zoo and Botanical Garden, and Auckland. Currently exclusive to Superb, scenic and historic sites, as well as departures every Tuesday, Wednesday, you can purchase your pass at any School chefs to be used in preparing meals XFP for children aged 2-12 years City Centre, Town Museum, Coconut you also have the opportunity to the opportunity to enjoy trips to the Thursday and Friday at 8am, at a cost one of them. The Nature & Culture Pass at the school that same day - and then enjoy (A$7.70-$9.80).Timetables and tickets Square, Le Méridien Hotel and the Superb French Food and take French cooking classes picturesque outer islands. of around $155 per adult and $80 for a costs only 1700XPF (AU$24) per person, your own dinner in the Escoffier School’s own can be purchased at the Palm Beach famous Tjibaou Cultural Centre. Entry Wine Tours offer the first specialist at the famed Escoffier School, child under 11. To book telephone (687) a saving of 1000XPF (AU$14), and it is restaurant. shopping arcade in Anse Vata or see fees are not included. gourmet tours of New Caledonia including guided tours of Superb French Food and Wine Tours your hotel concierge. 27 19 80 or visit: www.arcenciel.nc valid for six months from the first visit. taking you on an insider’s tour of produce markets. offer tour dates starting on 25 March The Escoffier School is located a few minutes To book telephone (687) 27 19 80 or visit: the best gourmet experiences in 2008 through to late October 2008. For from the centre of the city, on the way to Baie Prices quoted at April 2008. Prices quoted at April 2008 www.arcenciel-voyages.nc Prices quoted at April 2008 ‘the Paris of the Pacific’. And you Another highlight is a visit to more information call (612) 9904 4806 or des Citrons and Anse Vata, at 4 rue Georges stay in 5 Star luxury. Europe’s famed providore visit www.lesuperb.com.au Baudoux. For bookings call (687) 27 63 88. 22 Bon Appétit! Bon Appétit! 23

Parlez-vous Francais? Customs Information Here are some handy French phrases and pronunciations: Important facts you need to know before you leave New Caledonia... Hello (good morning/afternoon) bonjour bonzhoor It only takes a few days in New Caledonia including any tinned or dried foods. Not Good evening bonsoir bonswar to acclimatise to the finer things in life, declaring carries swift and expensive You’ll like the Nightlife! Goodbye au revoir oh ruhvwar and if you’ve made the most of your penalties. Prohibited products are those stay you’ll already be thinking of how to including more than 10 per cent whole, dried Please s'il vous plait seel voo pleh manage your withdrawal from daily feasts or powdered eggs, fresh and powdered dairy Thank you (very much) merci (beaucoup) Mehrsee bohkoo of foie gras, cassoulet and Bordeaux vin. products, pork, any raw, dried, smoked or Stocking up on some of your favourite uncanned meat, sausages, salami and sliced Yes oui wee French fare to take home is the obvious meats from animal species, fish and seafood, No non non solution - after all, it’s the closest you can seeds, nuts and grains and fresh or frozen Excuse me excusez moi (pardon) ekskuzay mwa (pardohn) get to visiting France without the jet lag. fruit and vegetables.

How much is it? combien ça coûte? Kombyehn sa koot But to avoid any problems with customs it If you’re planning to bring home some food I would like je voudrais zhuh voodray pays to take some time to understand what stuffs, only bring tinned or vacuum-packed you can and can’t bring back into Australia. products and check the ingredients to Bread (some) du pain du pehn ensure none of the above is contained Coffee un café urn kafay All wine and alcohol is acceptable - each (as a handy tip oeuf = eggs; porc = pork; Coffee with milk un café au lait urn kafay oh lay passenger over 18 years old has 2.25 litres lait = milk; fromage = cheese). duty free allowance which is equivalent un thé urn tay to a couple of bottles of wine or spirits. Most tinned pâtes, foie gras, package meals Sugar (some) du sucre du sukr You can of course bring more, but you’ll and conserves are fine providing they do have to declare this, have your receipts not include egg, pork, seeds (mustards and Milk (some) du lait du lay and be prepared to pay the tax on the jams) or dairy products. Beer une bière un byehr entire amount. With new cabin luggage restrictions no liquids can be carried on Water (some) l’eau de low board, so wine or spirits will need to be For more information, it’s highly Red Wine vin rouge von rhooj packed in your checked-in luggage. recommended you visit the Australian White Wine vin blanc von blonk Quarantine and Inspection Service For foodstuffs, all purchases must be (AQIS) website at www.aqis.gov.au/ A carafe un pichet ang peesheh declared as part of your customs declaration airports or free call 1800 020 504. A bottle une bouteille ewn bootehy A half bottle une demi-bouteille ewn dermee bootehy A glass un verre eun vehr A litre un litre eun leetr New Caledonia is Good Value Cheese fromage frommazh How much things cost in Australian Dollars: Fish poisson pwahssawng Number One lager beer 1 x 33ml can 115XPF $1.60 Seafood fruits de mer frwee der mehr Number One lager beer 24 x 33ml cans 2700xpf $37.60 Beef boeuf berf Orange juice 2 litres 310xpf $4.30 Chicken poulet pooleh Baguette 1 x Large 90XPF $1.25 Ham jambon zhamban Croissants Pack of 6 520XPF $7.25 Eggs oeufs erf Apples per kg 295XPF $4.10 Bacon lard lahr Natural yoghurt Pack of 16 1340XPF $18.70 Butter du beurre du beur Butter 2 x 250g packs 470XPF $6.50 Knife couteau kootoa Cheese - Emmental 250g 295XPF $4.10 Fork fourchette foorsheht Cheese - Roquefort 100g 330XPF $4.60 Spoon cuiller kweeyay Chicken liver terrine 128g 350XPF $4.85 Napkin serviette sehrvyeht Shoulder ham per kg 1395XPF $19.35 When the sun sets, the sea breeze Le New Caledo is popular or Karma lowers the warmth of the day and Land in the Quartier Latin. One un eun Salads per kg 516XPF $7.15 the promenades light up with neon Two deux der Dried pasta 450g 245XPF $3.40 as Nouméa’s nightlife awakes For a touch of Monte Carlo, you can Three trois twah with that distinctive island holiday try a night at one of the city’s popular Jam 450g 300XPF $4.15 Four quatre katr atmosphere. Nouméa at night is very Casinos. The biggest of these is Grand New Caledonia Coffee 500g 700XPF $9.70 much like the warm heady nights Casino adjacent to Le Méridien. If Five cinq sehnk Biscuits – plain (Sao) 250g 160XPF $2.25 on the Côte d’Azur (French Riviera) you’re staying at the hotel look inside Six six sees with locals and visitors mixing in your check-in pack for some credits Biscuits - fancy 120g 230XPF $3.20 Seven sept seht local restaurants, bars, casinos and to get you started. Alternatively discotheques around town. make like Bond and head over to the Eight huit hweet Milk 1 litre 100XPF $1.25 Casino Royal at Le Surf Hotel where Nine neuf nehrf French wine - red/white 750ml bottle 870XPF $11.80 The main night spots centre around you can expect all your favourite Ten dix dees French Champagne 750ml bottle 3395XPF $47.15 the beach areas of Anse Vata and casino games. Dress code is smart Baie des Citrons, where the locals casual, no jeans or sandshoes. Prices as of April 2008 gather to see and be seen. There are often a number of local and Along Anse Vata, a visit to Bodega visiting acts to Nouméa playing a wide Del Mar is the perfect way to variety of music from jazz to rock, latin unwind from a day of sailing, to DJ beats. Keep an eye out for the swimming or trekking and the handy monthly ‘Sortir’ pocket guide perfect spot to watch the sun set (www.sortir.nc) in your hotel lobby or at over New Caledonia’s radiant information centres which update you We would love to hear from you turquoise waters. It comes alive on who’s in town and where to catch at night with glittering fairy lights, an interesting gig. Like all great destinations, the food and gourmet scene in New Caledonia is continually changing. New restaurants open, chilled-out sounds and an open new chefs arrive, stores change hands and what’s nouvelle now is not so nouvelle after time. All good foodies know the balcony overlooking the ocean. All of the major resorts and hotels also best information and recommendations come from your peers and as your resident foodie guide, Bon Appétit would have excellent bars that offer you a be delighted to hear from you on your New Caledonia Gourmet Experience, your own restaurant reviews or finds and The bar offers an excellent more chilled-out night experience to maybe even a photo and caption on your gourmet highlight. menu that can be ordered at the unwind and reminisce about the day’s bar or by the friendly and attentive For cocktails and dancing head to have cover charges or require you to activities over your favourite cocktail, So why not drop a line to our Editor in Chief Gabriel Gaté via email: [email protected] or write to us at: New Caledonia wait staff. The lightly fried squid Baie des Citrons where a number of purchase a drink for entry. a glass of French wine or why not try Tourism, Level 5, 140 William Street, East Sydney, NSW, 2011. We’ll publish the best of your letters in our next edition and rings and chorizo sausage are clubs thrive on Friday and Saturday If you’re up for Karaoke try MV the refreshing local beer, Number morish and go down well with the nights to pulsating euro beats. Lounge. At Baie de l’Orphelinat One. Happy hours are also popular via our website at: http://www.newcaledonia.com.au/gourmet. local sangria which you can buy by L’Ethnick, Le Mystik and Jet 7 are try Piano Bar Paillard and Europria between 5-7pm – check with your the half or full carafe. all popular spots after 11pm. Many nightclub. In the town centre, hotel reception. Bon Appétit! Savour Somewhere

NEW

“New Caledonia is one of the best French

gourmet experiences outside of France”.

Gabriel Gaté

NCT2946

New Caledonia is a gourmet Paradise. Savour a dinner prepared by a Michelin-trained Chef. Freshly baked croissants, baguettes and pâtisseries. French cheeses, wines and pâtes. Delicious fresh tropical fruits and seafoods. Or a picnic on a secluded beach, surrounded by the world’s largest lagoon. And the Paris end of the South Pacific is right on your doorstep - only 2 hours from Brisbane and 2.5 hours from Sydney and Auckland. For more information visit our websites. Bon Appétit!

New Caledonia... Who Knew! www.newcaledonia.com.au • www.newcaledonia.co.nz • www.newcaledonaitourism-south.com