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DECEMBER 2012

Since 1970 weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine

BOND AND BEYOND ASTON MARTIN & SKYFALL REVIEWED

INTERVIEW VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

WINTER TRAVEL BY THE SEA

PARTY SEASON CHAMPAGNE SUPERNOVA

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: The Latest News from Asia Daily Wire, Seasonal Gift Ideas, Movies, Events and much more...

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Weekender December.indd 3 03/12/2012 13:19 Weekender December.indd 4 03/12/2012 13:19 Weekender December.indd 5 03/12/2012 13:19 Weekender December.indd 6 03/12/2012 13:19 DECEMBER 2012 CONTENTS 22

FESTIVE FIZZ A cork-popping journey through a few

festive glasses with our team. 14 19 46

ASTON MARTIN JCRAFTS JAMES BOND It’s not just the man opposite this page They do gifts we like and take a genuine A full review of Skyfall pretty much takes who gets to drive this beast. interest in artisan creators here in . over the movie page (Hobbits too!)

11 Asia Daily Wire 20 Sabon 34 Winter Travel Man sues “ugly” wife, Japan doesn’t do Take salt from the Dead Sea, put it on your Niseko seems like the perfect place to try enough for nuclear victims and more. face, and what do you get? out your new camera goggles.

12 What a Year 21 Vivienne Westwood 38 Society How could so much good stuff happen on She’s a little crazy but we love her. And Look who bumped into Lewis Hamilton in islands so small in 2012? she loves Tokyo... But why? last month... 18 The King of Sake 24 Kyoto by the Sea 48 Agenda That’s right, it isn’t all Gold and Silver New Year plans? Take a look, we’ve room of sake fans, in Tokyo or abroad. temples in the city. rounded up some of your options.

Weekender December.indd 7 03/12/2012 13:19 DECEMBER 2012

FROM THE EDITOR Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group Chairman Ray Pedersen

t’s not quite over yet, but we’ve had quite a year. Executive Producer Asi Rinestine In marked comparison to 2011 – though nothing is perfect – we do feel it has been quite a good one and Editor Matthew Holmes I Art Director Liam Ramshaw we have a lot to celebrate. Designer Ayako Fujiwara So, Champagne. If the “party girl” (as one member of Photographers Norihisa Kushibiki the team you see to the right of this column calls her…) on Kyle Drubek our cover gets you excited by what is to come at the end Media Director Kotaro Toda of the year, have a look at a bit of a cork popping guide to Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa some bubbly for the cooler (p. 22) and check Agenda for a Ohad Elbaz few ideas on where you might bring in 2013 in Tokyo. Masaya Okamoto At this time of year I often hear about friends and readers who have holidays and will head back Media Consultants Mary Rudow Matthew Hernon to wherever is ‘home’ other than Tokyo. I sometimes Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil think it’s a shame to miss Japan over the festive season, especially when there is so much to do back here – even Society Bill Hersey if it is a little ‘different’. Maybe you are heading skiing or Film Christopher O’Keeffe boarding (see pp. 34-37) or feel like exploring a new part of the country? Editorial Associate Vivian Morelli Kyoto by the Sea wasn’t a headline I was expecting to Asia Daily Wire Mace Bertumen write – who knew the prefecture was more than temples and a historic city surrounded by mountains? But it is. IT Manager Nick Adams Take a look. Development Manager Stephane Boudoux You won’t have avoided the hype surrounding Skyfall Finance & Admin Vika Maslyuk DBA Iryna Sundutova and, if you aren’t a fan, I’m afraid you’ll have to look away now – we have a review that, in celebrating 50 years of Bond, somewhat takes over our movie page. And while EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 the film nods to history, with Daniel Craig driving the original Aston Martin DB 5, we take a look at the newest Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group vehicle from the iconic British (well, maybe not in the www.bulbouscell.com boardroom) manufacturer and explore the story of how it has remained just so ‘cool’. 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 It was easy (particularly for myself) to stay with (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 (fax) Britain when looking at how great a year 2012 was. The [email protected] Olympics took over the media this summer and even from here in Tokyo we enjoyed the spectacle, huddled around To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: the monitors in the office every evening – it is pleasing [email protected] to hear that cynicism back there melted away to become national pride and a wave of good feeling, something we celebrate by looking at why now may just be the best For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: time in a long time to head to the UK. Speaking of which, [email protected] since she launched her summer collection at the British embassy in Tokyo at a Jubilee party in spring, Vivienne www.tokyoweekender.com Westwood has intrigued us – we wanted to ask her what made Japan so special, so we did. Have a look how that Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher turned out on page 24. As I briefly alluded to earlier, not all is well. Many people are still living in the shadow of events and their

aftermath in Tohoku last year and ongoing issues which tokyo here in Tokyo many of us can’t pretend to understand. DECEMBER 2012 Since 1970 weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine It is great to hear so many people still doing their bit to help. Don’t forget.

BOND AND BEYOND ASTON MARTIN & SKYFALL REVIEWED Follow Tokyo Weekender on Twitter: INTERVIEW VIVIENNE WESTWOOD @weekenderjapan WINTER TRAVEL KYOTO BY THE SEA

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Weekender December.indd 8 03/12/2012 13:19 Away on business or leisure, find comfort in a familiar environment — luxurious in Oakwood Premier, elegant in Oakwood Residence or stylish in Oakwood Apartments.

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Weekender December.indd 9 03/12/2012 13:19 Weekender December.indd 10 03/12/2012 13:19 ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 11

FOR ALL THE LATEST APAC NEWS CHECK OUT

WWW.ASIADAILYWIRE.COM

sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across Xi Jinping takes the Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, over in China sports and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the In a long-expected transition, China clock in real time and picks and chooses the best headlines from A appointed Xi Jinping sources across Asia—doing all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of to lead the world’s some of the ADW Editor’s picks from the past month... second-largest economy and its military for the next decade at the recent Communist UN envoy says Australia Party Congress. Mr. Xi addressed the Great Japan should do reveals world’s Hall of the People in a keynote speech and more to protect largest network pledged to battle corruption and concerns nuclear victims of marine brought by the public. Japan has not done reserves enough to ensure Australia revealed Pakistani girl the health of those affected by the Fukushima the creation of the world’s largest network killed with acid nuclear crisis, says Anand Grover, the UN of marine reserves after years of planning by parents after Special Rapporteur. After 11-day survey, and consultation. The protected area covers ‘looking at boy’ his report said that the government had six marine regions, spanning more than 2.3 A Pakistani girl died adopted “overly optimistic views” of radiation million square kilometers of ocean, and aims to risks and conducted only limited health protect blue whales, green turtles, grey nurse killing” after her mother caught her looking at checks following the meltdown. sharks and dugongs. boy in their village in Kashmir. Police arrested Zaheen Zafar and her husband Mohammad Anger over Indian woman after Anusha, 15, was doused in acid and kept Malaysia died after Irish for two days without medical attention. identifying gay hospital refused men by their abortion Judges using T-shirts Savita drugs in Gay rights Halappanavar died Indonesia face activists are wearing V-necks as a symbol of septicaemia in Ireland after doctors denied crackdown of protest. The Malaysian government Judges in Indonesia had released a list identifying gay and miscarrying. They cited Catholic-based laws, will be subjected to lesbian traits in bid “to prevent its which don’t allow for the practice. Though a random drug tests in an attempt to root out [homosexuality’s] spread”: the list of court ruled abortion legal for situations when the use of narcotics in the country’s judiciary “traits” parents should “look out for” the woman’s life is endangered in 1992, the branch. The crackdown comes after a district included boys wearing the style of shirt. government has yet to pass the law. court judge was arrested last month at a nightclub in Jakarta on suspicion of possessing Police probe Seized Syria- ecstasy and methamphetamine. owner after bound missile Bangladesh parts came Husband sues from N. Korea “ugly” wife after Local police A shipment of her secret surgery questioned the missile parts on A Chinese man has a Chinese vessel apparently en route to sued his wife after over possible violations of building rules Syria came from North Korea, in violation and of allowing poor working conditions. of UN sanctions on Pyongyang. After dozens of plastic surgery procedures done on There were allegations that managers her face, winning a $120,000 settlement for did not allow workers to leave the factory briefed the Security Council’s North being duped by her ‘fake’ beauty. Jian Feng Korea Sanctions Committee about the 445 initially accused his wife of cheating on him broke out, trapping people and forcing graphite cylinders – usable in a ballistic many to jump to their deaths. missile programme. ugly” and resembled neither him nor his wife.

Weekender December.indd 11 03/12/2012 13:19 12 | FEATURE | UK

WHAT A YEAR WHAT A PLACE TO BE

hat a difference a year British personality makes. There were riots on was never far the streets of London in 2011 from the arena and and press headlines never fields of play, the seemed to stray far from tracks, the TV studios theW “broken Britain” moniker that started as or of course the medal a - perhaps prescient - political slogan from the podiums during the Games prime minister. But in 2012, something happened. that followed. An unprecedented People got happy and Britain turned into the level of public enthusiasm burst through to the place to be. The nation was again the focus of the streets of cities towns and villages up and down world’s eyes – for all the right reasons. the country, banishing any bad mood that lingered.

WAS IT THE SPORT? HAVE THE STARS ALIGNED? It may well have been; 2012 was an incredibly With Skyfall comes the 50th anniversary of successful year for Brits who were aiming James Bond, fans of celebrated the for trophies, titles, medals and jerseys. same landmark, The Queen was in fine form After Champions League success for for her Diamond Jubilee in June, and Charles Chelsea, it was Bradley Wiggins who Dickens would have been 200 this year… It all really got things started on a national sounds a little too good to be true – and yes, scale back in July; the man who maybe all these numbers don’t mean a thing – L’Equipe said had “the most but it has certainly been a year to remember. famous sideburns since Elvis” Can it get any better? Well, maybe not, but won the Tour de France, there could not be a better time to visit the UK finishing 3 minutes and ride the wave of public enthusiasm. Ongoing 21 seconds ahead predictions of a ‘triple-dip’ recession seem to of his countryman, have moved somewhat to the background while Christopher Froome. many think about what makes Britain great A week later at the – its culture and its history are well known Olympics, after a throughout the world but it is its people and reporter remarked their eccentricities and multicultural identities that the Time Trial which make the place so unique. would be a tough Yes it might be cold but it isn’t all so grey, race, Wiggins especially not in the pub by the fire with a local quipped, “after ale or glass of whisky. Soaking up the culture winning the Tour de and meeting the people around the country France, this is going who are enjoying the time of their lives sounds to be a piece of piss.” like a pretty fine plan to us.

Weekender December.indd 12 03/12/2012 13:19 Weekender December.indd 13 03/12/2012 13:19 ASTON MARTIN DRIVES INTO A STYLE LEAGUE OF ITS OWN

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 14 03/12/2012 13:19 ASTON MARTIN | FEATURE | 15

The history of Aston Martin goes back almost a hundred years to a garage in Warwickshire, England, in 1913 but many of us, when we hear the name, look back to the 1960s and think of perhaps its most iconic vehicle. As Skyfall celebrates the we take a look at how the brand looks in the 21st century.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 15 03/12/2012 13:20 By Matthew Hernon I remember watching BBC’s Top Gear, Jeremy Clarkson was driving through the countryside in Wales and simply pple may have recently regained its said, ‘It’s a V12, it’s an Aston Martin, what more do you want me to say?’ It takes an awful lot of building to get to company, but when it comes to that point. being cool, it remains a distant second behind Aston Martin. We haven’t got there by trying to appeal to the masses. A What we sell is exclusivity. In almost 100 years of existence we have made roughly 55,000 cars, that is last six, eclipsing a host of luxury and specialist about the amount that Toyota makes in a couple of days. It shows you the size of our company.” Davidson for dead. Aston Martin has never tried to chase sales and it is not going to start now; it is far too classy for that. In Japan, An expert council and over two thousand British which Bennett describes as “one of our biggest markets,” consumers take part in the survey, with voters asked it expects to sell around 120 cars this year, an incredibly to consider style, innovation, originality, authenticity, small number. He admits that “it would be nice to sell a desirability and uniqueness. While being ‘cool’ is few more, but the long term exclusivity of the brand is subjective, Aston Martin, for most, ticks all those far more important.” The sight of an Aston Martin on the boxes and more. According to Dr. Matthew Bennett, road is a rarity and this simply adds to the allure. intrinsic eye for quality and refusal to compromise The James Bond factor also helps. Could there possibly on design that keeps them ahead of the rest. be a more stylish man on the planet endorsing your “There is a consistency of purpose across everything we do,” he tells Weekender. “We strive for perfection. wide range of Aston Martins have appeared in various (Because of) the way we position ourselves, and the products we put out, people can identify with with machine guns, makes a return in Skyfall, the 23rd what we are doing and they want to be part of that. instalment of the series.

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 16 03/12/2012 13:20 ASTON MARTIN | FEATURE | 17

Bennett is keen to point out that the Aston Martin name was already well known before it appeared as Bond’s car of choice. Its racing heritage is legendary after a lot of success on the circuit, most notably Carroll Shelby and Roy Salvadori’s victory at Le Mans in 1959. Both men, as well as chief engineer, Ted Cutting, sadly passed the DBR1, the car they won with, returned to the Curcuit de la Sarthe in June and was on display next to the team garage throughout the 2012 race.

The company’s founders, Lionel Martin and Robert Bamford, started out with a vision to build stand-out vehicles that were not only a delight to drive, but also amazing to look at. It is a philosophy the company has maintained throughout its 99 year history. Even through times of RAPIDE ROAD TEST wavered in its commitment to producing quality over quantity. WEEKENDER’S MITHAN SONI PUTS THE RAPIDE THROUGH ITS PACES

long-term goals for short-term gains,” says that is not a word I would associate with it. This beast Bennett. “2009 was the toughest year I Thas the ability to turn it on when it wants to. For all you have ever experienced as a salesman, yet thrill seekers, it still has a 5.9-litre V12 with 470bhp and has the throughout we continued investing in new capability to carry four occupants to 188mph; not a speed any of products and improving our designs. It is us are likely to go... on public roads at least. a constant challenge, but our designers have something extremely precious and With this car, the owner will have it all. Whether you want to that is why we have been able to maintain take the family and kids away for a weekend or speed away from such high standards.” Engine a Porsche at the lights, Aston Martin have achieved a unique 5.9-litre V12 balance with this beautiful machine. Since becoming independent from Ford in with 470 bhp 2007, ending a 13 year association, Aston Martin have embarked on an aggressive Acceleration and is no lightweight, either – the car weighs 1,950 kg. However, product launching campaign. In the past 0-100kmh (0-62mph) Aston’s assertion that this is a super-sized sports car stacks up: few years new models have included the in 5.2s it’s agile, feels grippy and thumps along at a wicked pace thanks V12, the One-77 and the four-door Rapide. to that lovely V12. The latest, coinciding with their upcoming Max Speed 100th anniversary, is the AM310 Vanquish, 295kmh or 188mph The bonded aluminium chassis is a stretched version of Aston’s which will replace the DBS. The model VH platform – seen elsewhere in the DB9, DBS and V8 Vantage. transcends its majestic predecessor with That means the Rapide is stiff and its suspension can be tuned a style that is second to none. Hardly accurately. surprising – it is, after-all, an Aston Martin, the coolest brand on the planet. The interior largely shares its style with the DB9 and is simply beautiful. Surrounded by leather, I can’t help but feel that the luxury aspect, in such a high performance car, is almost unheard of from other makers. It’s a very comfortable place to be, the double glazed windows block out any excessive exterior noise but you can still hear that sweet Aston V12 purring though; its absolutely marvellous to listen to.

If you’d prefer to listen to your own soundtrack, then the Bang & Olufsen stereo will also appeal, with front end speakers on the dashboard looking like they belong to a spacecraft. The rear seats are super-snug but look like something out of a concept car, stunning – long, low and effortlessly stylish.

Aston Martin has a great following in Japan. There’s even an Aston Martin Drivers’ Club, which has track days as well as family outings. Being part of the Aston Martin brand is something which appeals to most, getting driver tuition in one of these super cars to get the most out of the experience is something I would

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 17 03/12/2012 13:20 18 | ADVERTORIAL | SAKE stage. True sake tastes good because it reflects the fact that from producers of rice to producers of sake to the consumers, everybody is connected.” SAKE KING It is my strong WEEKENDER TALKS WITH SAKE MASTER ATSUHIDE KATO wish that those who drink our sake are tsuhide Kato cuts such an “The 10km area around the town of ebullient figure that he Sabae is home to traditional industries, happy. That’s what finds it hard to cross a making paper, lacquer ware, textiles and room. People throw their Japanese knives and I also really believe we are all working hands out for him to shake the people have a ‘spirit to please’. I think Aand he can’t help but stop and chat. that’s a big part of our success.” for at every stage Everybody knows him. So what is ‘Born’? Firstly, the name. We meet at a sake tasting event in It may seem like a lucky coincidence that When Kato took over as CEO he in November where, before the kanji character that represents the was clear that he wanted to establish the drinking begins, organizers of name has similar connotations in English something that went beyond Japan. He Joy of Sake will award him with yet to Japanese when read aloud. Ideas of feels that he can represent the pride of another Gold Medal, his sake having ‘creation’ and a ‘future vision’ are the Japanese people and the craft of sake beaten off competition from intentional and work well making and that that spirit can bring 170 brands - with 359 with what Kato describes longevity to the brand. And while Kato individual sakes - to take as the drink’s ability to appreciates the tradition, he says that the top prize. And bring about “visions though he is the 11th generation CEO, he it is clear that his of the future”. He is actually “a beginning.” reputation precedes may be poetic in “Every time there is a new him wherever he his description of generation, there is a new beginning. goes. how the Born name That’s the way it should be. When I play Kato is the came about but his shogi (a kind of Japanese chess) with 11th generation drinks speak for my son (who is sitting with us while we president and CEO themselves. chat) he always beats me. Everyone has of Katokichibee Katokichibee his own strengths so, if he does take over Shoten, and we are Shoten has a history one day, maybe he’ll take his own path.” here to talk about what that dates back to 1860 The future of Born appears in safe hands. he knows best - brewing and it produces some 50 the “Born” range of sake in different types of sake only the small town of Sabae, in the using premium grade rice, known as mountains of Fukui. It is a pursuit that junmai. The purity of its water is another has earned him many friends and many key to the quality of the product and its fans. success, says Kato, “we take it from a It’s hard to keep up with Kato as source 180m below the ground. That’s he speaks passionately and with a really important.” philosophical outlook on the process So how will I feel when I try Born of creating what has become a success sake? Judges and sommeliers quite often story not only in Japan but overseas, speak technically about a wine or sake too. When asked how he feels about the but Kato talks with clear emotional latest prize, though, he is clear, “I’m very attachment to the product. grateful to get the top award. I hope we “I hope that firstly you’ll notice its can continue to win more and more.” smoothness. Sometimes you’ll notice a Born is, in fact, in 2012 a triple gold- sour or strange aftertaste with poor medalist. Both the International Wine quality sake.” Not so with the Challenge and the International Sake best drinks, Kato says. “It’s Challenge also gave their top awards to hard to describe, but you Born sake which clearly is garnering can be satisfied by the lack praise the world over. of that aftertaste. Later, you When we ask about the process and can feel its smoothness. It’s why he feels the brew has done so well, dry and pure. And while Kato talks about his personal connection sommeliers may call it a dry with all aspects of the process. From back palate or use other providers to producers to consumers, technical words, I think everyone is as important as the next and we have a sake that has travel is a big part of that. something to say. Most “I often meet our contracted importantly, it is my farmers, probably every one or two strong wish that those months, face-to-face and travel to the who drink our sake are countries we sell the sake in a lot – I happy. think that’s so important to maintain the That’s what we are trust in and the credibility of our sake.” all working for at every

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 18 03/12/2012 13:20 JCRAFTS | GIFT IDEAS | 19

THE ART OF GIVING Gift giving is an art. For most, finding the perfect present can turn in to a fun-filled adventure but, for some, it is a tedious chore. The whole process is particularly pertinent in Japanese culture, where gift giving is not only something for special occasions but also an important social aspect of everyday life.

okens of appreciation It would not be an exaggeration are found in all forms to say that the root of the spirit of the in Japan, whether they Japanese people, which helped to cope be season- or occasion- with the tragedy of last year’s Great specific presents that East Japan Earthquake in a calm and Tcelebrate a festival or signify a rite sincere manner and which received of passage, or regional omiyage high praise from around the world, (souvenirs), appreciated by locals and is closely related to the identity of tourists alike. the Japanese manufacturing culture When it comes to choosing a that values details, exquisite care and special Japanese gift for a friend subtlety. here or for someone outside of JCRAFTS.com initially opened on the country, the vast choice can January 30, 2012 to introduce such be overwhelming and confusing. world-class traditional Japanese arts Enter JCRAFTS, a recently revamped and crafts to the world. The site sells online shop dedicated to simplifying various traditional crafts and provides the task of finding gorgeous and information on the traditional culture JCRAFTS.com sells various unique items. The shop sells more and lifestyles behind those who make than 4,300 products – from rare each item. The site also carries many traditional crafts and provides traditional crafts made by highly rare items that are difficult to obtain, skilled Japanese artisans to stylish even within Japan. The recent renewal information on the traditional Japanese accessories that are perfect has made it easier for shoppers to for our modern lifestyle. The good scour through the categories and find culture and lifestyles behind those news is, products can be purchased the items they covet. or delivered to customers in over Some noteworthy gifts include the who make each item 120 countries, so whether you’re Edo Kiriko Crystal aperitif glass, which looking to share a bit of Japanese is made using techniques that date Above: Kutani wine glass from Ishikawa prefecture 1 Each glass is hand culture with relatives abroad or are back 200 years and will surely look painted by a skilled Japanese craftsman 2 a Japanese culture aficionado looking chic on a dinner table when receiving 3 Traditional Japanese doll decked out in a kimono 4 Each doll has to collect special items, you’ll be in guests. Cosmetics and beauty fans will the right place. Even if you’re looking adore the Kumano brush set, which to present yourself with a unique is a world famous make-up brush 2 Japanese keepsake, this is the place brand with a beautiful yet functional to click. design. For family abroad, why not The online shop has a clean, send something that is impossible to sleek interface, making it easy to find over there, such as a sewing box browse through the selection of made of traditional Kyo Yuzen dye, or items, divided in four categories: a typical Japanese doll decked out in First Class (high quality, lavish items); a kimono? 1 Daily (basic lifestyle and home items); JCRAFTS is possibly the equivalent 3 Special (sumptuous and rare crafts); of all the gift shops you pass by and Gift (ideas for celebrations). All in traditional areas, but with a carefully the items featured in the shop are chosen selection of goods. The site is crafted through traditional Japanese enjoyable to look through, especially manufacturing techniques, passed when you can take time to read every down from generation to generation description. As Christmas and the end and applied to modern world-famous of the year is fast approaching and Japanese technologies – this is not presents shall be shared, JCRAFTS regular tacky tourist stuff. Traditional may be the place to find the cool, crafts and the artisans who create unique and personable item for your them are currently attracting a loved ones. renewed focus as the source of Japan’s manufacturing culture, something we For more information please visit 4 are glad to see celebrated. www.jcrafts.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 19 03/12/2012 13:20 20 | ADVERTISING | SABON SCENTS OF STYLE SABON CREATES THE ESSENCE OF PLEASURE

he first things you’ll notice 1 when visiting Sabon – whether searching for some Christmas gifts or personal pampering – are the hands-on approach of the Tstaff and the central water-stand, where the in-store experience takes place. The word “Sabon” means soap in Hebrew. The company, founded by Avi Piatok and Sigal Kotler-Levi in 1997, opened its first store on fashionable Shenkin Street, Tel Aviv, selling soaps made by hand using a 70-year- old Australian technique and formula. 2 The company became an instant success in its home country, Israel, and now has over 120 stores around the world, including in the US, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Romania and Japan; it opened its first store in Asia in Omotesando four years ago and expanded to 19 in Japan this year. Sabon has gained huge popularity 3 among women in Japan. You can often see a long line of customers in stores and many 1 Body Scrub containing salt from the Dead Sea 2 Selection of Sabon products 3 The fountain like water items sell out in just a few days. We can stand found in every store often see celebrities, models and famous stars introducing the brand on TV and in try: Patchouli Lavender Vanilla, Jasmine not tested on animals. There are many highly magazines here in Japan. and Lavender Apple are among customer recommended products, such as the mineral Walking into the Sabon store, you favourites. Gently rub the body scrub into powder, bath salt, shower oil, milky soap, will immediately smell the pleasant scents your hands while staff explain the benefits body oil and travel size items. There is also that surround the store. The classic design, of using the mineral-rich product. Then, a Gentlemen’s line, Mom & Baby line and an the antique chandeliers, the coloured step on the foot pedal of the water-stand Organic line, which is certified by EcoCert. glass bottles and the world music create a and water will come out to rinse your Sabon also offers many home atmosphere luxurious atmosphere that will make you feel hands. Adding body lotion completes the products such as candles, aromatic oils, like you are in another world. spa-like experience. Your skin will feel soft decorative ceramics and accessories such as Friendly Sabon staff will greet you and like a baby’s and you won’t be able to help make-up bags, textiles and soap flakes which lead you to the fountain-like water-stand, but smell and feel it afterwards. come with a small pouch that you can use where you can try all the bath and body Sabon products are based on natural in your drawers or wardrobe to keep your products. Staff will first introduce you to their oils and ingredients. The inspiration comes clothes smelling fresh. Most products are body scrub, a best seller, which is based on from nature – Sabon believes its products suitable for the whole family to use and enjoy salt from the Dead Sea – the deepest place on offer a healing experience for the body, together. earth. There are eight scents of body scrub mind and soul. Also, Sabon products are and you can choose your favorite smell to CHRISTMAS TIME At this time of year, Sabon has many gift ideas, particularly worth looking for is its Christmas gift basket, called A Touch of Gold: a selection of both limited edition products and Sabon classics. Whether you are searching for the perfect present for someone special, want to enjoy being pampered or just like the idea of spoiling yourself, head to a Sabon store this December.

Sabon Tokyo locations: Omotesando, Roppongi Hills, , Yurakucho Lumine, Hikarie, Jiyugaoka, Lumine, Lumine (see www.sabon.co.jp for details)

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 20 03/12/2012 13:20 estwood’s

Interview by Matthew Hernon World

ew designers capture the imagination quite like Vivienne Westwood. She’s become a national treasure in the UK after surprising audiences with her subversive, Funconventional style for more than 40 years; she has constantly challenged conservatism and asked shoppers to step out of their comfort zone and try something bold. She divides opinion. Critics have described her clothes as both ‘breathtaking’ and ‘ridiculous’, though never boring. Her “Anglomania” line celebrates femininity and is renowned for its asymmetrical cuts and masterful draping techniques; “Gold Label” includes the famous wedding gown worn by Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City; the Diamond Jubilee inspired her “Red Carpet Capsule Collection” and “Red Label” is a collection which showcases the eccentricities of British fashion. “Man” caters for everyone from the discerning businessman to the adventurous man about town. It would be wrong, however, to describe Westwood as simply a fashion designer. “This woman was once a punk,” said the tagline on the cover of Tatler beneath Westwood dressed as Thatcher in 1989. She is a political activist who is still never shy in coming forward. We recently spoke with the 71-year-old three-time winner of British fashion designer of the year to hear her thoughts on Japan, Prince Charles and the arrests of Leonard Peltier and Julian Assange. Here she is, in her own words.

Everything the Japanese do is worth doing well. I like the formality with which they attend to everything. They give charm to life with attention to detail and their sense of the exquisite, for example with their food and the way they serve it. They are beautifully polite, they know how to relax and they love to laugh.

The more I travel to Japan the more I like it. In Tokyo, I love to walk through Park and to visit the museums. People here are very well groomed and smart; they are slim and have good posture. I think they like clothes in the English tradition. Young people especially like to put together an individual look.

It’s primitive, but also complicated and profound. You just don’t want to leave. It touches something so human in all of us.

Peltier for many years now. He has been in jail for 28 years for a crime he did not commit. The federal authorities of the US government have admitted on record that he was convicted on their false evidence. His case is a very emotional one because he

I am Julian Assange, we are Julian Assange. freedom - freedom of information. Julian could be facing life imprisonment, or even the death sentence, if extradited. He may simply disappear. New laws that protect the people in power take away our basic freedoms and rights. Through Wikileaks, Julian Assange continues to expose the lies and distortions of the authorities.

It is criminal that governments do nothing effective to help with environmental problems. For a couple of decades I’ve been really upset about issues such as climate change and I couldn’t bear the idea that we’re still cutting down the rainforests. It’s quite obvious that the sooner we do something, the better, so I decided to start with the rainforest because if we can’t save them, we’ve got no chance.

We are an endangered species. We face extinction through climate change. We can campaign for one thing at a time – my choice is to save the rainforest. “Cool Earth” (coolearth.org) can save the great forests on the equator by 2020. They need £100 million. This is do-able.

Prince Charles has done more good than any other politician I can think of. He has used his position to try to make the world a better place. I believe we are dangerously short of culture and in imminent danger from climate change and that these things are connected. Prince Charles works on both these fronts. He actually helped broker a deal between Guiana and Norway to save the Guianan Rainforest.

Reading is the most concentrated form of experience you can have. Books, not magazines. Cultivate the habit. The most important books of the 20th century in English are “Brave New World” by Aldous Huxley and “1984” by George Orwell. My own greatest reading experience is the Chinese 18th century classic by Cao Xueqin, “The Story of the Stone”. Whatever you think of China now or during the 20th century, this story gives great insight into human nature and also the importance of Chinese civilization.

Weekender December.indd 21 03/12/2012 13:20 hat better time of year, we wondered, to pop a Champagne cork? Actually, we’re pretty sure wanted to look for something different. someone told us the posh and proper way to We’re not thinking Champagne on a budget – who wants to Wdo it with good etiquette was to twist the bottle scrimp at Christmas? – but we were hoping we could open up our knowledge a little, while of course having a little fun. You might know what you like, you may have a favourite and you may just know exactly what Champagne suits which Watch your eyes. occasion – if that is the case, then great. But come on, live a When it comes to making a sparkling purchase with little, have a go on one of these. seasonal parties and celebrations on your mind, it’s easy to go for the big names that jump out from the shelves of any liquor We would like to say a big thank you to Zwiesel for store on any high street. We aren’t saying a Veuve Cliquot, providing the glassware for our tasting. Piper-Heidsieck or simply a Moet doesn’t have its place on ice at Web: www.zwiesel-kristallglas.jp

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 22 03/12/2012 13:20 CHAMPAGNE | FEATURE | 23

Jean-Noël Haton Perrier Jouët Extra Brut Grand Brut

he next wine to be sampled was the Perrier Jouët, Grand Brut. The Brut – and what a great way to get the ball rolling. The Extra Brut general agreement form our panel was that this wine was again subtle Tis an equal mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that has resulted Tand light but that some intensity did shine through. The Perrier Jouët in a pleasantly balanced taste. The mouth is soft and fruity without being is a blend of Chardonnay (20%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Pinot Meunier (40%) too sweet and the melon and citrus hints of the nose are fairly subtle. The which makes for a very delicate and slightly fruity taste; summer fruits and colour tends towards a dark gold and if you’re the type of person who likes an aftertaste that had a very slight acidity, without being unpleasantly sour a lively sparkling wine, then the Jean-Noel Haton Extra Brut certainly won’t and with hints of malt, made this something of a grower. The colour is light and the bubbles are certainly in no way overpowering. This wine is a great For more information please visit: www.meidi-ya.co.jp accompaniment to a light meal and may be the perfect way to start a party. For more information please visit: www.pernod-ricard-japan.com

Berry Bros. & Rudd Bruno Paillard United Kingdon, Cuvée, Grand Cru, Brut, Mailly Première Cuvée, Brut

he next champagne on the menu was from UK based wine merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd. We tasted their own label Grand Cru, which is Paillard, Premiere Cuvée. This wine is a mixture of Pinot Noir (45%), Ta blend of Pinot Noir (75%) and Chardonnay (25%). The wine has TChardonnay (33%) and Pinot Meunier (22%) and has a vibrant and been aged in barrels from Châteaux Margaux for four years and this gives slightly acidic taste with strong overtones of winter fruits and berries. The it a fairly powerful, elegant and rich taste that is well balanced and not Bruno Paillard is a bright straw gold colour and the nose is fresh, with hints too overpowering. The nose is very pleasing and slightly unexpected, with of candied fruit and spices. The bubbles are delicate and light and this seems aromas of lemongrass and honeysuckle. This is a decent all round wine, a fun to drink, maybe early on in your evening, making it perhaps an ideal perfect accompaniment to a meal or a great one to serve with canapés at your wine for those party people who like to enjoy a few glasses of champagne and For more information please visit: www.bbr.co.jp For more information please visit: www.millesimes.co.jp

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 23 03/12/2012 13:20 24 | TRAVEL | KYOTO

KYOTO BY THE SEA

By Koko Shinoda

In the region of Tango, in the northern part of , outstanding scenery. The bridge of heaven, Amanohashidate, is the two-mile sand bar that straddles mountains, separating the Miatsu bay, on the Japan Sea, from the Asoumi lagoon. According to legend, a ladder, named Amanoukikashi, was placed so that the male God, , could go back and forth between the heavens and the beach of Kushibi, where he liked to live. He was, though, a careless god and fell asleep, the ladder crashing to earth and forming the bar we can see today.

Though most famously considered one of Japan’s top views – it does indeed deserve its place alongside that from Mt. Hakodate and of Kobe by night – it is for me by walking or cycling along the pine- covered area that this trip becomes an unforgettable experience. The marine landscape and surrounding area has given inspiration to many artists, poets and writers over the years. It is not just mythology but also Heian and Edo period history that have in Japan, view the area. The grande dame of classic poetry, Izumi Shikibu, for instance, took inspiration from the views, as did well- known Noh theatre author from the Muromachi period, Zeami. The white sand beaches on the ocean side and lush pine forest that covers the “bridge of heaven” are actually also seen as an inspiration for traditional Japanese garden landscaping. Amanaohashidate was considered an ideal model during the Heian period, when gardeners established the classic style we are now so familiar with. Many still use a motif of the Tango sand bar as a main feature of their garden, including that of the Katsura imperial villa.

Amanohashidate is also a deeply religious area where, locals say, “deities are at work”. Besides the Chion-Ji and the Nariai-ji Temple, the Motoise Kono-jinia shrine really deserves a visit. The old shrine, the greatest in Tango, is constructed in the same style as that of the Grand Ise Shrine in Mie prefecture. Umisachihiko is the main deity there and the shrine is deeply related to the sea. The Amabe family of priests, who serve the shrine on a hereditary basis, are still family tree, Japan’s oldest, is a national treasure and is kept in Kono with many other cultural properties. Every year, on April 24, the area sees an important festival with sword wielding displays.

“Throughout history,” says Yoshinari Amabe, “local citizens have lived in spiritual harmony with nature. Before the Edo period it is believed that they gathered fallen leaves, cut branches for fuel and worked towards reforestation after wind and snow damage.”

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 24 03/12/2012 13:20 Wakasa Amanohashidate Bay

Maizuru Port Miyazu

Kyoto City

GETTING THERE From Kyoto City to Amanohashidate Station is around 2 hours 30 minutes by JR line. To Higashi Maizuru station about 2 hours.

Weekender December.indd 25 03/12/2012 13:20 26 | TRAVEL | KYOTO

Here, the best kaiseki restaurants of Kyoto do their weekly shopping; the and oceans are the starting point for some of the most

1 sort-after ingredients 2 in all of Japan

Speaking of gastronomical excellence that we discovered during our trip in the region, we have to remember some premium sake brands made here, such as Hakurei. We also learned that a man called Fujisu produces exquisite vinegar in the traditional way from unpolished rice here. He even supplies selected international clients, perhaps his most famous being Joël Robuchon, and also one from red potatoes that is even reputed to have fat-burning properties. 1 Local woman cleans freshly caught oysters 2 Crabs are a speciality of the region and common ingrediant in local cuisine 3 A rare delicacy: a red These exquisite local sakes and special snapper that will be slightly dried and carefully cooked over charcoal. 3 vinegars are used at Shichirin-yaki by reputation for its focus on a sustainable, Kanemasu Tukasa, a young Japanese chef who Now, as since Meiji times, shore and protection eco-friendly model. Historically, the region lives and works nearby and specializes in a measures have been taken in accordance with of Tango has played an important role traditional way of cooking local crabs, oysters, national laws and regulations. But citizens in providing agricultural products to the yellowtail and winter shads. We found his have continued to work on environmental ancient capital of Japan. Here, the best small but elegant shop was open at random protection activities, such as planting Japanese kaiseki restaurants of Kyoto do their weekly hours at night (but always works during lunch black pine seedlings to minimize pine wilting hours) to satisfy his fastidious clientele of local damage, maintaining the shoreline and giving starting point for round kamo courgettes, gourmands. We tried a rare delicacy: a red names to the pine trees as a token of care. large and sweet tamba chestnuts and snapper slightly dried and carefully cooked After a typhoon caused great damage in 2004, Matsutake mushrooms. over charcoal. locals set up an executive committee in order to repair Amanohashidate pine forests.

FIELD TO FORK The Kyoto prefecture’s northern border, Tango or Kyotango, is also reputed for its agricultural produce. Visiting last month gave me some very pleasant surprises. The Amanohashidate Winery, for instance, has since 1999 produced very decent wines on the shoreline of the lagoon near Kokubun, Miyazu. We visited impressive nearby caves for a delightful wine tasting (the white Chardonnay was particularly memorable) followed by a gourmet dinner in the annexed restaurant. Here you can enjoy fusion cuisine with a European-Japanese taste.

known for providing high quality fruits and vegetables and the area has gained a

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 26 03/12/2012 13:20 KYOTO | TRAVEL | 27

Another important spot in the Miyazu domain of Tango is the old Mikami family house. The brewer, shipping agent a money dealer. The very well preserved elegant mansion later became the refuge of Kinmochi Saionji during the Boshin war, the civil war that erupted in Tokugawa shogunate. Saionji, a prominent statesman, became later prime minister and was a founder of the Ritsumeikan University.

SUN, SEA AND HOT SPRINGS The Tango region is well known for its beaches, such as at Konobichi, and its panoramic views (at Yuhigaura and Tateiwa) and also offers a great variety of hot springs. The Kurhaus Iwataki, for instance, is a modern facility that combines German and Japanese bathing methods. There is also the Yasaka Ashiginu, a structure that stands twenty-six meters above the ground, the Ukawa onsen, outdoor baths of both the mountains and the seas, and the Takao onsen.

The brick warehouses The red brick warehouses in Maizuru port photos related to the industry and an old area were used to store weapons since the in Maizuru port are now hatcho thread-plying machine. Not far from founding of Japanese naval headquarters in beautifully restored and that, stretching out from the Ushigono and 1901. Admiral Heitachiro Togo, the Nelson Kaya areas is the once famous Chirimen of the East, commanded this naval base. used for cultural events Kaido, the silk district. A few years later he became the hero of such as concerts Along its main road, built during the Azuchi celebrated navy battle. The brick warehouses Monoyama era at the end of the 16th century, are now beautifully restored and used for This northern area aims to preserve an you can feel some of the atmosphere of cultural events such as conferences, art old and very Japanese industrial tradition. bygone days, hear the clattering sound of exhibitions and concerts. One is devoted Textile factories in the area produced weaving and see traces of the many old shops to the history of bricks and brick making chirimen, a high quality and delicate piece of that existed here. worldwide. Another former torpedo deposit silk. This rare material was once a must for hosts a permanent exhibition dedicated the kimonos of the elegant ladies in Tokyo, Among the other historical relics of Tango, to the 600,000 Japanese soldiers that were Osaka and Kyoto but changes in fashion and down in Maizuru city area, is the Kongoin deported by the Soviets to forced labour lifestyle have reduced the chirimen-futakoshi temple, which is known for its beautiful red camps in Siberia and Mongolia after the production to a niche industry. An old silk autumnal leaves. Yukio Mishima described second world war. factory – dating back to 1935 – has been its graceful three-storied pagoda, built in the reconstructed at the Tango-chirimen history Heian era, in his novel The Temple of the On the hilltops of Gorogatake, overlooking museum (317 Iwawa, Yosanocho, Yozagun) Golden Pavilion. Maizuru Port, an observation tower offers a complete and breathtaking panoramic 1 view of the deeply indented coastline. If you visit on the weekends, as we did, take a mini cruise. From the boat we could appreciate all the aspects of the beautiful coastline and its Japanese battleship from a nearby naval base that was anchored in the bay.

The Kyoto Maizuru port is in fact undergoing 2 a quay improvement project for large scale 3 passenger cruise ships. Besides the existing commercial activities of the port and the Cruise (which takes in Otaru in , Fukishi in Toyama and Maizuru in Kansai) it is clear that the local authorities believe in tourism. The new expressway, to be 1 Famous red brick wharehouses 2 Boats dock at the picturesque marina 3 completed 2014, will considerably reduce Passenger cruise ships at Maizuru Port. journey time to and from Kyoto city.

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Weekender December.indd 27 03/12/2012 13:20 28 | TRAVEL | KYOTO

This northern Kyoto prefecture coastline, with is protruding cliffs a world away from the city in the valley is indeed one of the most fascinating areas of Japan.

size of a small swimming pool! – and a traditional iron fireplace.

This small boutique hotel is very quiet and doesn’t allow children. Young guests are welcome in the other refined ryokan of the group, Ichiboukan, a few paces away from the beach nearby or at the more traditional establishments such as the Hidamari or the massive Kasyouen. FEEL THE DIFFERENCE These places can host groups and small conventions.

KASHOEN GROUP SPOILS YOU FOR CHOICE With an eye on the young a dynamic clientele now seeing the area as on the up, the Okita family has opened an will never forget the soft, It is here that the Okita family owns and Italian style bed and breakfast style repetitive, unmistakable noise runs seven hotels, each of different style, hotel called Little White Flower at the of the weaving mills producing on the Yuhigaura, the Sunset seashore. side of nearby Hanare lake. In addition chirimen, the silk crape so to its modern spa, spacious and colourful typical of our Kyotango area The Ujo-souan Souke Hotel – its name rooms and beautiful garden, you can Iwhen I was a little girl.” Manami means ‘the feeling of rain’ – is a very enjoy plates made with fresh ingredients Okita, who now runs a successful hotel elegant ryokan made up of five cottages, from the nearby orchard and, indeed, a business in the region, remembers the each of which blends a chic aesthetic traditional Neapolitan pizza. past with a nip of nostalgia in her voice. with a rustic Kyoto style. The lodges, accurately re-constructed, are made For more information on Kashoen The silk industry, once so important with old beams and windows taken from Hotel Group here, is no longer a thriving business. antique Japanese houses up in the north. Gone are the days of the fashionable The furniture is old and elegant. Each Web: www.kasyouengroup.com Kyoto geishas so fussy about the quality cottage has its own private bath – the Tel: 0772-74-9199 of their chirimen kimonos. After 4 the splendors of the Edo-era and a commercial success story that went on until the early Showa-era (1926-1989) the looms producing some of the most highly regarded Japanese silk are now reduced in number. They work for a selected but shrinking clientele, a testimony of bygone days. But today it is tourism that is seen in this area as the new, challenging adventure.

This northern Kyoto prefecture 1 coastline, with is protruding cliffs a world away from the city in the valley is 2 indeed one of the most fascinating areas of Japan. Located on the north-western part of the Tango peninsula, Kyotango is full of unexploited potential. In 1 Relax on the terrace and enjoy the view addition to the many onsen, the area is from the onsen 2 Delicious local cuisine at 3 4 rich with historical sites and beautiful Ujo-souan Traditional Neapolitan pizza Outside dining at the Little White Flower hotel. geographical attractions. 3

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 28 03/12/2012 13:20 KYOTO | TRAVEL | 29

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1 Enyoy a drink in the old British club style of the Haven bar 2 Superior Twin room 3 Exterior of the Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa KYOTO ROYAL HOTEL & SPA

A long time favourite of discerning travellers, the Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa this year celebrates its 40th anniversary.

ocated in Kawaramachi Street, Kyoto’s main volumes, elegant lamps on the side tables and plenty of restaurant and entertainment avenue, this fine bottles on display. Even the butler in attendance is is a modern hotel which owes a great deal a kind of Japanese version of Jeeves and even consults a of its popularity to its strategic address. The pocket watch (linked by a golden chain to his waistcoat, of Kamogawa River, the perfect place for a course) to certify the end of the customer-friendly happy Lmorning stroll or jog, is just one block away. The city’s hour. “The Even Bar,” explains Jan Murakana, the hotel’s most famous spots and monuments are all within easy public relations manager, “is one of the principal features reach and guests won’t miss the Nijio Castle, with its bird- of the Royal and has remained the same since our opening like squeaking floors, the antique Kiyomizu (pure water) day, 40 years ago.” Temple, the celebrated Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) or Ginkakuji Temple, also known as the Silver Pavilion, The Prandia restaurant, for its part, offers a vast which is an unequaled masterpiece of garden design. assortment of international cuisine, but of course offers, for those who wish, a Japanese breakfast in addition to Tourists with a greater interest in Japanese history croissants, marmalade, eggs and bacon. (or fans of Kurosawa’s masterpiece, “Kagemusha”) may also want to visit the almost-adjacent Honnoji More Japanese and Asian indulgences take place at the Temple, the death place of shogun Nobunaga Oda. Kotoran Spa, where the Kyo no Miyabisui (exquisite water The victorious hero of the battle of Nagashino (1575) from Kyoto) flows generously, as in the special Spa suites committed ritual suicide (seppuku) there after being on the tenth floor. betrayed and becoming surrounded by enemies. Oda was a smart and innovative general who was in fact Last but not least the Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa has the first in Asia to use firearms against enemy cavalry. wide range of meeting and function rooms and is well equipped to cater for stylish weddings. But Japanese tradition is not the main feature of the Kyoto Royal. The hotel is also a very cosmopolitan place. Address: Sanjo-Agaru, Kawaramachi, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto Its Haven bar, for instance, has the atmosphere of an old 604-8005 Japan Web: www.ishinhotels.com/kyoto-royal/en British club with its leather armchairs, old Chippendale Tel: 075-223-1234 | Fax: 075-223-1702 furniture, newspaper racks, bookshelves filled with old

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Weekender December.indd 29 03/12/2012 13:20 30 | TRAVEL | KYOTO

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USAGIJUKU Could you become an an

armour master’s apprentice 2 the traditional way in Kyoto?

o you want to get stuck into some Japanese culture, but ikebana or tea Sceremony classes don’t appeal? Why not to try an armour (yoroi) course in Kyoto?

Nagatoshi Uzuki, amour master (Miyako yoroi) and his artist wife Ako, from an old samurai family, will introduce you to the craft in their traditional house in Kyoto‘s Nishijin district. From the house, not far from the Seimei Shrine, the couple runs a workshop 3 in contemporary armour making. At their 1 Beaded chords 2 Locals get involved Usagi Juku workshop, they can teach you 3 Traditional armour on display the traditional craft of braided cords (Kyo- kumihimo) fringed thread (Kyo-fusashimo) and metal fittings (Kyo-kanamono) that make We hope to prevent this craft and what it means up Heian period court costumes. to the traditional spirit of Japan from disappearing “Japanese armour consists of tiered scales which are traditionally made of leather, iron and to pass it on to future generations or thick handmade paper, laced together with beautiful cords,” says Nagatoshi Uzuki. “We hope Japanese armour and helmets (kabuto) wooden plate hanging on the front left to prevent this craft and what it means to the have their roots in the Heian period (894- size of the breastplate whose upper edge traditional spirit of Japan from disappearing and 1191) and are distinguished by the beauty takes on the shape of a dove tail, a symbol to pass it on to future generations.” and elegance of the braided cords holding of divinity. They will also test their skill the tiered scales together. The colors by making the beautiful Sendan-no-ita, of the threads are chosen from nature the braided plate on the right side. This and they actually change from season to part of the armour is made of three tiers season. of Kozane-ita (scales), laced together to allow more flexibility in the wearer‘s “Since childhood the beauty of these movement when drawing a bow or braided cords has fascinated me,” says wielding a sword. Ako Uzuki. “My grandmother actually received some as a gift from the former A successful apprentice will be also able to prime minister of Japan, Bokudo Inukai.” parade wearing their masterpiece during Further study, with Akira Kasai of the the Yoroi-Kizome-Shiki (armor wearing Takata family, Imperial suppliers and ceremony) held in Kyoto every November. Muneyuki Myochin, the 25th generation In any case, they will be making a good head of the Myochin school of armour, investment. The cost for a modern replica turned the interest into a passion. “Now of quality Japanese armour could be I strive to create yoroi infused with a around the 5 million yen mark. The ‘do contemporary sensitivity.” it yourself‘ version could be ten times cheaper - plus one year of good work. At Usagijuku, students will learn how to create life-size armour and helmets by hand. They will be introduced to For more information on Usagi Juku, the craftsmanship of Kyubi-no-ita, the please visit: www.usagijuku.com

Weekender December.indd 30 03/12/2012 13:20 Weekender December.indd 31 03/12/2012 13:20 Japan’s first and largest international real estate portal

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Weekender December.indd 32 03/12/2012 13:20 Japanese Property for International Buyers and Renters

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Weekender December.indd 33 03/12/2012 13:20 34 | WINTER TRAVEL | HILTON NISEKO VILLAGE

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1 Top class chefs cook perfect seafood 2 Catch the ski lifts straight from the hotel 3 Onsen with a Mt. Yotei view 4 Relax in comfort after a hard day on the slopes. 2 3

4 HILTON NISEKO VILLAGE: HOKKAIDO IN STYLE Choosing Niseko for a special ski or snowboard trip is pretty much a no- Hilton Niseko Village, with Mt. Yotei - known as ‘Ezo Fuji’ - visible from its windows, will make your trip something to remember.

ou may know the feeling: it’s been long, “Celebrating our 5th anniversary in 2013, my focus is amazing day on the slopes and you are tired, to enhance the hotel’s reputation further not only as a Yhungry and in need of some rest, a good meal winter resort, but also as an all year-round destination,” says Tomoyuki Yamanobe, General Manager of Hilton discuss the best (and worst!) runs of the day with Niseko Village. “We strive to continuously improve friends and family. Or perhaps you just need to get service quality through taking a creative and innovative some sleep ready for an early start on the slopes approach, especially in the non-winter season which is the next morning? Have some aches and pains that growing in popularity.” could do with a good soak in the onsen? This place will take care of all your needs – even if you take It may be the resort’s golf course that brings you time away from the slopes. back in spring or summer or you might want to try horse riding, climbing, hiking, biking or even hot air Hilton Niseko Village is the largest ski-in and ski-out ballooning but, whichever you choose, the Hilton seems resort hotel in the Niseko area and the resort’s like the sensible place to lay your head at the end of an ski lifts and gondola are just steps away from the incredible day in the mountains. hotel’s door; your seven-minute journey to the top of Mt. Annupuri, 1,000m above sea level, could not The Hilton Niseko Village also offers a hassle-free ski be easier. by PRECOR and a free children’s playground. The hotel has 506 modern rooms and suites with breathtaking mountain views, a variety of Prices: Rooms start at ¥18,000 restaurants and bars, après ski entertainment and Address: Higashiyama Onsen, Niseko-Cho, Abuta- an award-winning Spa and Onsen which will add Gun, Hokkaido, 048-1592 to your unforgettable powder snow experience, Web: niseko.hilton.com / hiltonnisekovillage.jp whatever kind of trip you are hoping for. Tel: 0136-44-1111

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 34 03/12/2012 13:20 EYE ON ASIA | WINTER TRAVEL | 35 SNOW, CAMERA, ACTION!

MAKING MOVIES ON THE SLOPES

magine sharing an awesome YouTube or Vimeo clip with mates who don’t quite appreciate how good the skiing or snowboarding is here in IJapan. We have some of the best snow in the world and some of the most spectacular scenery right on our doorstep; even from Tokyo it’s easy to get out there. We increasingly share images from even the most mundane aspects of our lives through phone apps and social media these days but many of us want a way to record and tell everyone about what we’re up to while 1 doing something a little more unique. The chance to share a high quality video of one of our most exciting and at times spectacular winter pursuits 2 is becoming more and more common. your pocket with your chunky gloves – not to mention the risk of dropping it in the snow and the impossibility of doing so while on the move – means the best images are often impossible to capture. But we love these new goggles from Eye on Asia. A 5-megapixel, 720p HD camera is embedded right into the goggles, meaning that nothing protrudes from your head or helmet, and you can still look pretty sleek as you head down the mountain recording your every move with your hands 3 free to concentrate on more important things – like keeping your balance! The lens will capture anything within a 135-degree range and when testing 1 Stylish design looks great on the slopes 2 Top mounted 5-megapixel, 720p with a (class 10) 4GB Micro SD card we got around an hour of HD footage HD camera 3 Cellphone style battery and memory card slot that looks pretty sharp and has balanced colours; more than good enough if you are aiming to use your footage online. with their look and feel – the cellphone-type battery and memory card are concealed behind the lens to the sides (a feature which helps them avoid snow) and the camera itself does not add a great deal of weight to the goggles. Their polarized outer lens and inner, anti-fog coated plastic mean that you aren’t compromising on all the usual features you’d expect and straps (with silicone grips to avoid slipping on your helmet) are neat. There is an LED right inside the goggles, allowing you to see when the camera is operating and in what mode without having to remove them from your face, and record and mode buttons are easy to press. We reckon you could use these for pretty much anything on your the slopes, have some fun with mates comparing runs or, if you are a bit more extreme with your skiing or boarding, get real point of view and have a great time putting it to music.

The Alps Series goggles cost ¥22,900 and are available at www.eyeonasiashop.com. EyeonAsia will offer a great prize to readers of Tokyo Weekender, the details of which will be announced in our next issue

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 35 03/12/2012 13:20 36 | WINTER TRAVEL | JR TOWER HOTEL

JR TOWER HOTEL NIKKO, SAPPORO

With its breathtaking views of one of Japan’s most exciting cities, top-class restaurants and state-of-the-art spa facilities, JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo is a resort which offers something a little special while being ideal for both business and leisure travellers.

irectly connected to Sapporo famous spots such as the iconic Sapporo station, inside Hokkaido’s Tower. The style is chic and simple and all The city-centre is just tallest building, the hotel rooms are comfortable and clean - with the a short walk away, giving couldn’t be more convenient. added bonus of those spectacular views. The city-centre is just a short The same can also be said of the you a chance to enjoy the Dwalk away, giving you a chance to enjoy the restaurants on the 35th floor. There are city’s nightlife without having to worry about many options including Japanese, French city’s nightlife without getting a taxi or worry too much about the and classic Western cuisine with Mikuni having to worry about cold. If the weather is bad – you might be Sapporo the pick of the bunch. Chef Kiyomi glad of the snow if you’re hitting the slopes Mikuni makes the most of Hokkaido’s getting a taxi or worry too but want to stay in the warm at night – you seasonal produce to create dishes that have don’t even have to step outside as the Tower made this one of the most celebrated French much about the cold. If the Building has a great selection of restaurants, restaurants in the city. weather is bad. cafes and places to shop, including the Another recommendation is Sky J, a Daimaru department store and Bic Camera. restaurant with a wide range of Western and Its guest rooms are situated from the Asian dishes. From 8pm it becomes a cocktail option while Serena, which doubles up as a 23rd to the 34th floors, approximately 100m - lounge with live music. For a quieter, more cafe and restaurant, has a more European feel. 140m above ground and allow views towards traditional Japanese style meal Tancho is a good For those wanting to relax after their food, the Sky resort Spa ‘Pulau Bulan’ (the island of the moon) is definitely worth 1 visiting. Taking up the entire 22nd floor, here you can enjoy air bubble baths, saunas with aromatic scents and a natural hot spring with water that began flowing from an underground source below Sapporo station’s southern entrance when discovered as recently as 2000. There are a variety of therapeutic treatments available with prices starting at 5,500yen for the 30 minute refreshment course.

2 JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo prides itself on being a great place to stay, particularly 3 for guests who like to relax when away from home.

JR Tower Hotel, Nikko, Sapporo 1 Seasonal dishes made with local ingrediants Address: 5, Nishi 2, Kita 5, Chuo-ku, 2 Room with a view of the iconic Sapporo Sapporo 060-0005 (inside JR Tower) Tower 3 Spacious suite with amazing views 4 Beat the cold in a relaxing onsen Web: www.jrhotels.co.jp/tower/english 4 Tel: 011-251-2510

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 36 03/12/2012 13:20 SAPPORO GRAND HOTEL | WINTER TRAVEL | 37

For those like to dine with a view, Garden Dining Waraku is a great option, providing a sophisticated menu with authentic Japanese cuisine.

where you can enjoy a sauna, a stone bath and or the training gym. Other facilities in the hotel include the Grand Arcade, with a variety of cosmetic, craft, jewellery and import shops, Chapel Cana and the Memorial Library where you can take a look at photographs and mementos of VIP guests, such as a thank you letter from Margaret Thatcher and the lunch menu used by the New York Yankees in 1955. There are a number of dining options at the hotel offering a variety of Western, Japanese and Chinese food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can enjoy a wide selection of local delicacies at the Node 43° and Hokkaido Dining restaurants. For those like to dine with a view, Garden Dining Waraku is a great option, providing a sophisticated menu with authentic Japanese cuisine within sight of the stone garden just outside the windows, particularly popular in spring when ducks raise their young in the pond. Kokaku, another great option, fuses a New York diner style atmosphere with Chinese cuisine. On top of all that, there are three bars, more than 20 banquet halls, wedding facilities, a conference room, and a concierge service in English, making Sapporo Grand Hotel one of the best venues for foreigners in the area. Located in the heart of the city, it is one of the most convenient places to stay in Sapporo with the JR and subway station just a short walk away. Also nearby is Odori Park, a recreation spot that is known as the ‘Heart of Sapporo’ and is famed for its seasonal events, particularly the world famous Yuki Matsuri, (Snow Festival). The hotel and its Japanese garden can both be reached through one of Sapporo’s weatherproof underground passageways.

SAPPORO GRAND HOTEL SOPHISTICATION IN THE CITY Sapporo Grand Hotel was Hokkaido’s first European-style hotel and it continues to thrive after more than 75 years of serving guests with distinction. 1 2

ince opening to the public in 1934 (after Prince Chichibu suggested a Western-style hotel in the area) it has provided a temporary home-away-from-home to guests including the Emperor and visiting heads of state, earning its reputation as the premier hotel in the prefecture. S Not content with that, plans are currently underway to improve the quality of rooms and services in the hotel for 2013. Renovations, which are expected to be completed by mid-April, will see the size of the standard rooms extended, providing guests not only with more space, but also with a 3 far greater level of comfort. The hotel is made up of three buildings, currently encompassing 561 1 Experience the beauty and tranquility rooms including suites, executive rooms and themed rooms. From April of the Japanese Garden 2 The Japanese however, that number will be reduced to 504 with the standard room size restaurants serve the best in local increasing to 40m sq. The smart and simple design combines classical produce 3 Get a realxing massage at the traditions with a modern style and is ideal for both couples and families. Healing Court Rennox Spa For an even more luxurious experience, it is highly recommended to book a room on the Comfort Floor, where the beds are specially designed to help you Address: Nishi 4-chome 1-jo Kita Chuo-ku Sapporo, Hokkaido 060-0001 sleep better or, for the discerning business traveller, the executive floor. Web: www.grand1934.com/english For further relaxation it is worth taking a visit to Healing Court Rennox, Tel: 011-261-3311

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Weekender December.indd 37 03/12/2012 13:20 Ceremony president Tsukasa Shiga with F1 driver Lewis Hamilton and Bill at the New38 Lex | FACES after the & Japanese PLACES Grand | PEOPLE, Prix in November PARTIES, PLACES

PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE, WITH BILL HERSEY

t’s mid-November and I’m working on the column in one of my new Chinese restaurant, Shatohanten, near Roppongi. Nancy, who’s in favorite coffee shops – Espresso Americano in Roppongi Hills. The her 90s, looks great and is known the world over for her Chinese cuisine Christmas music in the mall really makes me realize how time goes and cookbooks. Going back a bit (quite a bit, actually!) I was a guest at an so quickly these days. By the time you read this the holidays will just intimate dinner party Nancy hosted for the brother of “The Last Emperor” be a few weeks away; well, as my grandmother often said, the older I Honolulu. I also enjoyed the last bear claw dinner Nancy hosted before the I’ll devote the opening of the last People, Party, and Places of the year government passed a law banning this. For more info on Shatohanten, call to people and in 2013 hope to write more and more about so many of the 3587-9111. wonderful people I have the privilege of meeting and getting to know. I send my sincerest congratulations to Italian chef/caterer Giorgio Just got a postcard from friends and former Tokyoites Ron and Maria Matera. Vincenzo Petrone, the Italian ambassador, awarded Giorgio with Anderson, who were traveling in Asia. After 10 years in Tokyo, where Ron the decoration of Cavaliere dell Ordine della Stella d’ Italia at a special headed AIU, they moved to New York. Maria was and still is involved in so ceremony at his embassy. many worthwhile charity projects and was president of the International In closing this section of PPP. I’d like to thank you all for your Ladies Benevolent Society (ILBS) here. During their trip to Asia they readership, friendship and support in 2012. I hope you and yours have a attended a big reception in Seoul, hosted by the booming city’s new wonderful holiday season and that 2013 is a really good year for you. mayor, Park Won Soon and his wife. The Andersons were and still are one of Tokyo’s most popular foreign couples and, from what I hear, are just as Africa Day Celebration at the Angolan Embassy busy and popular in the Big Apple. There are 37 African countries represented in Japan and the recent African It’s really nice having Koichi and Daniele Yoshikoshi back in town. Day celebration at the Angolan embassy was as crowded, as colorful and Koichi headed up Tokyo operations for Triumph, the German fashion as enjoyable as its many guests expected it would be. After the many hosts company, for 20 years. Daniele, his wife, is the epitome of all good things and hostesses received us, we checked out the many interesting exhibits French – she’s super chic and a real charmer who keeps very busy with the that had been set up on both sides of the long entrance hall. A group of ILBS and works for other charity organizations too. Koichi’s busy as well; very colorful and energetic drummers and dancers did their thing in the in addition to writing several best sellers on business, he’s very much in main area and they were really fantastic. For me, the superb buffet, with a demand for his lectures on business and construction. The couple recently huge variety of homemade favorites from the many participating countries returned from a three-and-a-half month tour that included a cruise to was the highlight of the night. Our African friends are already very busy Alaska as well as time in Canada, New York, southern France and Italy. preparing for the Japan Africa Summit which will be held in Yokohama They even somehow spent a few days at the London Olympics. That couple in June next year. Many heads of African countries are planning on being really know how to live. here to strengthen partnerships with Japan. My thanks to Stuart Harold Congratulations to the legendary Nancy Ma on the opening of her DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 38 03/12/2012 13:20 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 39

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Glittering Singapore national day at the Imperial Hotel amb. Datuk MD Som Shaharuddin. 1. Philippine amb. Manuel Lopez and his wife Maria Teresa with Indonesian 2. Singaporian amb. Siat Yoon Chin, 8. British Airways’ Vishal Sinha with Japan Airlines’ Masaru Onishi and his wife his wife Lee Moi Wang and Sri Lankan amb. Wasantha Karannagoda 3. Sumiko 9. Spanish amb. Miquel Navapro Potera, Yasmine Tsamados, former Indian Minister Sanjay Panda with newly arrived Indian amb. Deepa Gopalan prime minster Yoshihiro Mori and Greek amb. Nikolaos Tsamados 10. British Wadhwa and Minon Concert association president, Hiroyasu Kobayashi ambassador, Sir David Warren and Takako Shimazu, sister of the Emperor 11. Okura Hotel’s Rajesh Paul and new Polish amb. Cyryl Kozaczewski. Brian Gregory with his wife Keiko and their son Justin 12. Mori Buildings’ senior advisor Yoshio Karita and his wife 13. President/CEO of Deutsche Bank Group, Midori Nishiura, Mrs. Wang Wan from China, Aye Aye Nyem of Myanmar David Hatt and his wife Helen Yasuko Konoe, Dr. Harue Nagao, the Japan and Datin Norasikiin Shaharuddin from Malaysia 6. South African amb. Red Cross president Tadateru Konoe Hungarian amb. Istvan Szerdahelyi, Mohau Pheko with Indian amb. Wadhwa 7. Dewi Sukarno with Malaysian Japanese Diet member Toshiro Mifune, Pamela Warren and Reiko Szerdahelyi.

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Weekender December.indd 39 03/12/2012 13:21 40 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

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Exotic Evening of Pakistani Folklore Lorvo 8. Saxophone player Sadao Watanabe and Grand Master of Ceremonies at the 1. United Arab Emirates amb. Saeed Al Nowais, a visiting Pakistani musician, outgoing imperial household, Nobutake Odano 9. Ecuadorian Ambasador Leonardo Carrion, Pakistani amb. Noor Muhammad Jadmani and parliamentary vice minister of foreign Argentine Amb. Raul Dejean and designer Junko Koshino 10. Artist Go Yayanagi with affairs Kazuyuki Hamada 2. Nasreen Jadmani with Algerian amb. Sid Ali Ketrandji Mori Art Museum President Yoshiko Mori. and his wife Amal. Africa Day at the Angolan Embassy 11.12. 3. Zimbabwean amb. Stuart Harald Comberbach with Rwandan amb. Dr. Charlie New Zealand’s amb. Mark Sinclair, Warner Bros. Japan president William Ireton, NZ Murizande and his wife Rosette Tunisian amb. Elyes Kasri Legendary Sadako prime minister John Key, Air New Zealand GM for Japan and Korea, Ed Overy and Air Ogata and Egyptian amb. Hisham el-Zimaity 6. Jamaican beauty Marlene Ferguson New Zealand cabin crew members Adelaide and Eddy 13. New Zealand second secretary Caroline Bayliss and Brian Martiin, chairman of the Japan New Zealand Business Council Warrner Bros. exec director marketing Takayuki Osaki, Ed Overy, John Key 7. Brazilian amb. Marcos Bezzerra Abbott Galvao with Grand Hyatt GM Christophe and New Zealand Regional Mgr. for Tourism, Nick Mudge.

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Weekender December.indd 40 03/12/2012 13:21 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41

Comberbach, Zimbabwean ambassador and dean of the African Corps, for Brazil’s National Day celebration. Familiar faces there that day included for his help in getting this info together. super saxophonist Sadao Watanabe, who gave a short concert. Was nice seeing designer Junko Koshino and her husband Hiroyuki Suzuki, who’s David and Pam Head Back to London doing very well as a photographer, and Brazilian sumo wrestler, Kaisei. It Needless to say the many friends of British ambassador Sir David was also nice talking with Yoshiko Mori, an exceptional lady who heads Warren and his wife, Lady Pamela Warren, are really going to miss the the wonderful Mori Museum in Roppongi Hills. A few days later I ran into couple. The Warrens recently returned to England after four years and Marcos’ son, Pedro, and we talked about Brazil’s preparations for the next a few months in Japan. David is retiring from diplomatic service but Olympics and some current cultural projects here in Japan. These include will, as always, keep busy. I am sure he’ll maintain his and Pam’s close relationship with Japan through his new position as chairman of the currently painting some special walls set up around the embassy. Japan Society in London. Pam will be there to help whenever he needs and will also be involved in some very other worthwhile projects as well. Prior to their departure the couple hosted a beautiful sayonara Datuk Md. Som Shaharuddin, the Malaysian ambassador, and his wife Datin party in their garden. It was great to see Tadateru Konoe, president of Norasikin were super chic in Malaysian national dress as they greeted the the Japan Red Cross and his wife Yasuko. She’s the daughter of Prince many guests at their big event at the New Otani Hotel. Datuk and Datin, by and Princess Mikasa and I was really happy to hear her father is making the way, are Malaysian titles of honour. Many of the ladies there also wore a speedy recovery after some health problems. The prince studied Malaysian fashion that evening and the reception venue was a kaleidoscope archeology and, as I majored in anthropology, we used to have some very of colour. Dewi Sukarno, who always looks good, was with me that night and interesting discussions. It was also nice seeing David Hatt, Deutsche Bank I’m always surprised how much attention that extraordinary lady attracts. So Group’s top man here, and his wife Helen. David, who really knows his many people want their photo with her, or just want to shake her hand, and business, raved about the way the Japanese organized and carried out she pretty much always obliges. She’s a smart lady and has an amazing ability the recent IMF and World Bank meetings in Tokyo. to recognize the party crashers and phonies. I was happy to meet Myanmar’s I do want to thank another good friend who was there, British ambassador and his wife, as well as the wife of the Chinese ambassador, and Airways’ Vishal Sinha, who introduced me to Masaru Onishi, Japan one of the Shahararuddin sons who goes to a university in Tokyo. Airlines rep. director/chairman. They’re both cool people. The program that evening was very informal. David made a short and meaningful Pakistani Folklore Evening speech and there was some good music from the embassy’s taiko group. I jumped at the opportunity to attend a performance by several of Pakistan’s The Warrens were in Japan for so many great British events, top musicians and singers. Pakistani ambassador Noor Muhammad Jadmani including Will and Kate’s wedding, the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the and his daughter, Nasreen, hosted the event at their beautiful home in best Olympics ever. They, as Brits, have much to be proud of. As the great Minami . I like Pakistani music so I really enjoyed the show and English singer Vera Lynn sings, “There Will Always be an England” and was happy to meet some of the artists later at a wonderful barbecue in the that, thank God, means there’ll always be great English friends like David garden. The only downer that evening was the absence of Noor’s wife Amnat, and Pam, who I thank for their friendship and wish all the best back who was out of Japan. Just heard the Jadmanis will be leaving Japan soon and home. returning to Pakistan where he’ll become director of protocol. He and his family are very well liked here and will really be missed by all who had the privilege of getting to know them. Singapore’s ambassador Siat Yoon Chin and his wife Lee Moi Wang had only been posted in Japan a short time before they hosted their big event of the year, Singapore’s National Day reception at the Imperial Hotel. Looking back I had to and really regretted turning down two invitations to The couple came to Japan after a 14-year posting in China and as the visit New Zealand, a real shame. I always like people I’ve met from there ambassador’s wife, who’s very outgoing, said it really is different here in a very positive way. Guests there that evening included top Japanese Zealand prime minister, who’s actually also minister of tourism, was in Japan recently with a VIP delegation to promote his beautiful country. At a special from the arts and entertainment world. Several years ago, Singapore’s industry function at the embassy he and his associates unveiled their new embassy convinced the Imperial Hotel to let them bring in food from campaign, “100% Middle Earth, 100% Pure New Zealand”. The campaign is several of the top Singapore restaurants here, and that was a big tied up with Warner Bros.’ December l4th worldwide release of The Hobbit: success. I’m happy to see they’re still doing the same. The chicken and satay restaurants were very special as was the Japanese, western and will increase the number of tourists visiting New Zealand just like the Lord Chinese food prepared by the the Imperial’s food and beverage staff. Congratulations to the Chins, whom I wish a long, happy and Narita to Auckland soon and they are planning all kinds of exclusive successful stay in Japan. competitions and unique fan opportunities, all geared towards enjoyed meeting both the prime minister and Mark Sinclair, There was a big turnout as well at the well-designed and the New Zealand ambassador as well as so many of the New Zealand VIPs living here in Japan.

Wells Fargo Bank’s Gabriel Olano and his wife Minon pres. Hiroyasu Kobayashi, Ghanaian Shiga Tsukasa, Fernando Alonso and Taka Tatiana at the National Azabu supermarket amb William G.M. Brandful and members of at the New Lex the Ghana National Ensemble

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Weekender December.indd 41 03/12/2012 13:21 42 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 42 03/12/2012 13:21 1 Iguanas are the most popular reptiles. When we ask if they are tough to look after, Dr. Kato laughs, “we take care of them all, I even recall doing ECG test on a turtle; they have a heart too!” The clinic even sometimes sees small squirrel monkeys but large monkeys are apparently not so popular, “because they can’t be a good family member!” Dr. Kato keeps laughing, though I am sure he would treat a sick gorilla should one need to visit. Do foreigners have different needs or 2 expectations? “Well, communication is very 3 important of course. There are differences in the understanding and practice of veterinary medicine in different countries. Generally speaking though, Americans have the most knowledge of animal healthcare, which in that country.” 4 Dr. Kato stresses that the important thing is that pet owners should take their pet to see the vet regularly even if they appear healthy. Youngsters below the age of six months should visit the vet every month as they are sensitive and monitoring is critical, he tells us. Cats and dogs over the age of about seven should see the vet every three months (approximately one

1 Your pet can look its best after a visit to the grooming room ‘human year’) as they are already in the age 2 Owners and pets can enjoy the spacious terrace 3 Personal at most risk from cancer - a growing problem check up room 4 CT Scanner in an ever aging pet society as veterinary knowledge and pet care advances. The early detection of problems can prevent the DAKTARI ANIMAL HOSPITAL situation from deteriorating and tremendously help in avoiding more complicated (and TOKYO MEDICAL CENTER ANGELL expensive) procedures later on. “Our target is to be specialized in every discipline of veterinary medicine. This is MEMORIAL INTERNATIONAL why I go overseas often, in particular to the US, because I want to learn from their ALL CREATURES GREAT & SMALL highly specialized clinical sciences. Japan has still a way to go when it comes to aktari Animal Hospital is insights from 48 years of experience practicing veterinary medicine and animal welfare. As not your typical veterinary veterinarians we should educate pet owners clinic. Located in the high-end “Having a pet is good for your health on medical issues such as geriatric, cancer neighborhood of Shirokane both mentally and physically,” Dr. Kato says and preventative medicine, which is ever Dai (pet heaven apparently) it with a big smile. But having one can be tricky growing. And the key point of that preventive Dis a huge, high-tech facility that offers a level in a place like Tokyo. “In general, pet owners approach,” says Dr. Kato, of convenience and luxury to its patients in Tokyo are highly knowledgeable when it “is to go see the vet on a many human hospitals can only dream of comes to their animal’s health.” The limited regular basis even giving. space here is typically more suitable to small if your pet looks Each patient will have a private room in and toy type dog breeds such as the toy poodle, perfectly healthy.” what is a brand new and spotless facility, full miniature-dachshund, miniature-schnauzer, of modern technology. Vets use big screen Chihuahua, Yorkshire terrier and French iMacs to display the results and relevant data bulldog, a “huge difference from the west,” and various images, X-Ray, colour Doppler says Dr. Kato. “Cats too are enjoying increasing Ultra Sound diagnostic and CT scans on popularity and already their population in matching Apple TVs on the wall. Cats and Tokyo surpasses that of dogs.” This is mainly dogs are separated to avoid unnecessary due to their ability to keep happy and balanced stress and you can even watch the different types of checkups and special procedures themselves all day. your pet needs live on a screen in the lobby. Pet variety is not limited to cats & dogs Even if you do speak some Japanese, it’s however. “Birds such as parakeets, turtles likely you may not know much vocabulary and small mammals such as rabbits and or animal medicine terminology, making the ferrets make great companions too,” multi-lingual staff particularly handy. Dr. Kato tells me. “Actually, one of After a quick tour, taking in the state-of- our doctors is considered to be the the-art operating rooms, a terrace overseeing number one ferret specialist in the street which acts as a free space, the Japan.” puppy class, pet toilet, grooming room and a photo studio (to take a shot of your freshly Address: 5-14-1-2F, Shirokanedai, groomed pet, of course) we were impressed. Minato-ku, Tokyo, 108-0071 Web: www.daktari.gr.jp We sat down for a chat with Dr. Kato, the Tel: 03 5420 0012 clinic’s head, hoping he could share his many

Weekender December.indd 43 03/12/2012 13:21 44 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE

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Weekender December.indd 44 03/12/2012 13:21 EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 45

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Weekender December.indd 45 03/12/2012 13:21 MOVIES COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN DECEMBER

CELEBRATING 007 IS BACK IN CINEMAS FROM DEC 1 SKYFALL: OUR REVIEW

s the familiar riff of the opening theme tune kicks movie. Not unfamiliar with violence, the in you know what you’re Road to Perdition director does a great in for. It’s one of the most job in bringing the right balance to the recognizable pieces of music Ain cinema history and is as iconic as the set pieces, including a thrilling chase in character it’s tied to: Bond, James Bond. the iconic pre-titles sequence and a brutal Its the 50th anniversary of the year the YEARS OF JAMES BOND Ian Fleming’s novels onto the big screen, of a Bond movie, looks stunning. The dour, over-cast greys of London set the tone for franchises of all time. Since 1962, when various government departments and the Dr No, James Bond, codename 007, has panoramic views of the historic buildings been an enduringly popular character. mirror themes of ageing and crumbling The series has changed in style and tone empires. A Macau section is pure Bond over the years and every generation has escapism; we watch as the agent enters their favourite lead-man, with current incumbent Daniel Craig hoping that with complete with komodo dragon pit, to meet this 23rd addition he can cement himself stunning Bond Girl, Berenice Marlohe. as a rival to Connery’s original. Casino Royale, released in 2006, re- Bond with a knack for the best features established Bond in an era of Jason Bourne of the character; he’s smooth, charming and Parkour, after Pierce Brosnan’s run and ruthless when necessary. 007’s wound itself down with convoluted plots ability is questioned after returning and Roger Moore levels of cheesy action from a particularly grueling mission and puns. Passing on the torch and re- and he must prove that he still has what establishing the Bond franchise in the it takes both mentally and physically. modern era, Casino Royale presented a Judi Dench’s ‘M’ has always shone in the darker, more serious Bond at the start of series, having a more playful relationship with the preceding Bond, her interactions agent struck a chord with audiences and with Craig have always felt more intense, with feelings of mutual respect and Craig’s performance. The follow-up, 2008’s admiration arising from a shared past Quantum of Solace, failed to keep up the in a dangerous line of work. The nature momentum mainly due to its somewhat of this relationship is built upon here as meandering plot. Now, with some nods to the past, Skyfall sets up the future of the M’s character than it does with Bond, character. and her story, with potential retirement This is Bond with all the familiar ever-nearer, runs parallel to that of the tropes but without the cliché. Sam lead character. Dench has always carried Mendes, a director known for his portrayal a great sense of authority in her position and her withering put-downs of Bond’s as American Beauty and Revolutionary more roguish traits hint at her role as a

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 46 03/12/2012 13:21 DECEMBER | MOVIES | 47

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results in his apparent death muddies the waters of this relationship and sets up the confrontation with the main villain, an THE HOBBIT THE TWILIGHT SAGA: past. he Hobbit’ was originally to be directed by BREAKING DAWN – PART 2 Javier Bardem returns to playing a Guillermo del Toro and, while it would have Tbeen interesting to see his dark, perhaps he Twilight Saga began in 2008 with the in the Coen brothers’ -style vision of Middle-earth, Men, and he continues to play a bad guy Tbest selling series of fantasy romance rather well. His vengeful rogue agent the hands of Peter Jackson. Its makers (or bank novels. The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn – ‘Silva’, like all good Bond villains, is a managers?) have split the book into in three parts Part 2 sees the return of the three principle well-heeled, powerful and cold-blooded and, because The Hobbit is generally considered a cast members: Kristen Stewart as Bella Swan, killer with a facial deformity requisite for simpler book than its follow-up in both its content Robert Pattinson as vampire Edward Cullen and the role. Bardem plays the creepy genius- and style, it will be interesting to see just how. The Taylor Lautner as werewolf, Jacob Black. The maniac to perfection as he carries out his adventure begins when Gandalf (Ian McKellen) Part 1 ended and involves plots, not with a grand scheme to take brings a group of Dwarves led by Richard a battle between rival vampire clans that will over the world but with a single-minded Armitage’s leader, Thorin Oakenshield to the home vision to destroy M, his ‘mummy’. Skyfall of Bilbo Baggins (Martin Freeman) and the group a little lost. While the past episodes haven’t also sees the reintroduction of series sets off on a quest to reclaim a great treasure from been received entirely positively with critics, the staple ‘Q’, Bond’s supplier of guns and the terrible dragon, Smaug. The Lord of the Rings series has been hugely successful with its core gadgets, after an absence in the previous trilogy set new standards in visual-effects and teenage fan base, a group who will no doubt be takes up the role, the youngest to do so at un-missable. the age of 31. these days it’s slightly too long and Bond, DEC 1 DEC 15 particularly in the opening scene, has a touch of the Superman about him, but that being said Skyfall is an excellent addition to the franchise, accessible to both fans and newcomers alike. Adele’s theme song, although not quite as bombastic Die,’ is the best in years, and there are some good jokes referencing the history original Aston Martin DB5 from 1964’s THE WOMAN IN BLACK FRANKENWEENIE still needs a couple more successes under ttempting to prove there is life after rankenweenie is the third stop-motion his belt but, on this form, the question, appearing in a hugely successful franchise, “Who’s your favourite Bond?” may soon AHarry Potter himself, Daniel Radcliffe, Fproducer Tim Burton. In typical Burton style (you’ll remember his that made him a household name. The Woman Christmas in Black sees Radcliffe taking on a more mature with an odd but charming cast of characters and role in this old fashioned ghost story. Radcliffe’s a distinct visual style. Actually a remake of a 1984 young Edwardian-period lawyer, Arthur Kipps, is Burton short, this is a black and white parody of sent on a job at an isolated old manor, which the Frankenstein with plenty of classic horror cinema mysterious and terrifying Woman in Black haunts. references. It follows young Victor Frankenstein Based on a novel by celebrated writer Susan as he uses science to resurrect his beloved dog, Hill, with a screenplay by Jane Goldman, who Sparky, “the best a kid could have,” with, how shall has been making a name for herself with recent we say, electric consequences. Charlie Tahan, who hits and is just 14, stars as the voice of Victor with Catherine was developed by legendary horror production O’Hara (who you may remember as the mother in company Hammer, and is a spine-chilling, old- Home-Alone) as Mrs Frankenstein and Winona fashioned haunted house tale. Ryder as classmate Elsa Van Helsing.

This month’s movie reviews and previews were written by . For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 47 03/12/2012 13:21 AGENDA 1

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1 DEC 15 2 DEC 9 3 DEC 16 4 DEC 11 - 16 Womb Adventure 2012 Hop Revolution Anjin: The Shogun and the Shibuya mega-club World beer fest with a London band Citizens! English Samurai decamps again to Chiba couple of sessions and (they’re “mind warping” A bilingual play about for a full night featuring DJ sets seminars - we’re particularly fond according to the UK’s NME) headline William Adams who, as we all from Daddy G (pictured) of Massive of Thornbridge brews, from right a night of hi-jinx with Gidas and Attack, Darren Emerson and more. some Kitsune label DJs in support. British man to come to Japan. Time: 22:00 - late | Tickets: ¥6,500 Time: Various sessions Time: 16:00 - late | Tickets: ¥4,000 Time: Various| Tickets: Various Venue: Makuhari Messe, Chiba Venue: Club Axxcis, Shibuya More info: www.vision-tokyo.com More: www.tokyoweekender.com/the- More info: www.womb.co.jp More: www.hoprevolution.com Venue: Sound Museum Vision, Shibuya english-samurai Venue: Aoyama Theatre

5 DEC 8 6 DEC 31 7 DEC 31 8 DEC 11 - 23 Independent feat. Tiga Club Air Countdown Rafael Lima Canadian electroclash Special International Deejay DJ and occasional radio Ezypt (live) is the top of the Gigolo Records boss, time adds to the repertory of rambler, Tiga, is the main draw to bill for what promises to be a chic DJ Hell, headlines in his usual Spanish artist well known for oil this rather fun and fairly cheap celebration of the end of 2012. Or is unpredictable style and the club will and acrylic characters, in Tokyo for looking night in Shibuya. that the start of 2013? open a sake barrel at midnight. Time: 22:00 - late | Tickets: ¥3,000 Time: 10:00 - 05:00 Tickets: ¥3,000 Time: 10:00 - 17:00 | Tickets: Free Time: 11:00-16:30 Venue: Kabutoya Info: www.vision-tokyo.com Venue: XEX Nihombashi More info: www.agri-frontier.com/english Gallery, Ginza More info: www.galllery- Venue: Sound Museum Vision, Shibuya More: newyear2012.peatix.com Venue: Club Air, Daikanyama kabutoya.com

DECEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com

Weekender December.indd 48 03/12/2012 13:21 DECEMBER | AGENDA | 49 DECEMBER

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9 DEC 9 10 DEC 21 Dimitri From Paris X Drink festival in Shibuya with some of It’s going to be a bit of a Japan’s top wine bars supplying the throwback house party just before snacks. Christmas, this one, with Defected Time: 12:00-15:30 and 16:30-20:00 records DJs on the decks. Tickets: ¥7,000 (¥6,000 adv) Time: 22:00 | Tickets: ¥3,000 Venue: Hikarie Hall, Shibuya More: More info: www.vision-tokyo.com www.tokyoweekender.com/2012/11/ Venue: Sound Museum Vision, Shibuya festivin-natural-wine-festival-2012

11 DEC 31 12 DEC 12 Womb Countdown Spiritualized German techno takes over Jason Pierce makes it a Womb for its end of year Japan 2012 hat-trick after party with Ellen Allien and Apparat performances at Hostess and Fuji bringing Berlin to town as we say Rock went down very nicely, very goodbye to the year. nicely indeed. Time: Various | Tickets: ¥8,400 Time: 10:00 - 19:00 | Tickets: ¥6,500 Venue: Womb, Shibuya More: www.smash-jpn.com More: www.womb.co.jp Venue: O Nest, Shibuya

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2012

Weekender December.indd 49 03/12/2012 13:21 BACK IN THE DAY: DECEMBER 1982 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1982! You can read the rest of the article (issue 49, 1982) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online.

Weekender December.indd 50 03/12/2012 13:21 Weekender December.indd 51 29/11/2012 12:21 Weekender December.indd 52 29/11/2012 12:21