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The Traveler´s Guide to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLKThe Traveler´s ART IN Guide PERU to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLK ART IN PERU CONTENTS CONTENTS THE POWER OF DIVERSITY FESTIVITIES IN PERU Festivities Calendar JANUARY Entrega de Varas (scepter of power) Chiaraje (war game) Marinera Dance Festival FEBRUARY Virgen de la Candelaria Tinca de Vacas (cattle-branding) FEBRUARY AND/OR MARCH Carnivals MARCH Lunahuaná Adventure-Sports Festival Wine Festival Cruces de Porcón March and/or April Easter Week Lord of the Earthquakes APRIL Peruvian Paso Horse Festival MAY Virgen de Chapi Señor de Muruhuay Festival of the Crosses Qoyllur Rit’i JUNE Inti Raymi San Juan San Pedro & San Pablo Corpus Christi JULY Virgen del Carmen de Paucartambo Independence Day Yawar Fiesta AUGUST Santa Rosa de Lima SEPTEMBER Virgen de Cocharcas International Spring Festival OCTOBER Virgen del Rosario Señor Cautivo de Ayabaca (The Captive Christ of Ayabaca) Señor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles) Señor de Luren NOVEMBER All Saints Day & Day of the Dead DECEMBER Andean Christmas www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 1 The Traveler´s Guide to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLKThe Traveler´s ART IN Guide PERU to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLK ART IN PERU Santuranticuy fair Virgen del Carmen de Chincha Coca leaf and Offerings to the Earth Goddess DANCES AND INSTRUMENTS The Marinera and the Cajón The Huayno and the Quena The Huaylarsh and the Harp The Festejo and the Quijada Carnival and the Mandolin The Santiago and the Tinya The Creole Waltz and the Guitar The Sikuri and the Zampoña The Harawi and the Charango Danzantes de Tijeras (Scissors Dancers) Chicha or Peruvian Cumbia Whistling Gourds ARTS & CRAFTS & FOLK ART Fleeting Art Fireworks Carpets of Flower Petals T’anta Wawas Candles and Giant Wax Candles Funeral Art Pottery Ayacucho Pottery Puno Pottery Cuzco Pottery Shipibo Pottery Baskets and Straw Articles Images Masks Retablos Huamanga Stone Carvings Wooden Carvings Carved Gourds Jewelry Silversmithy Gold Filigree Semi-precious Stones Leather Goods Sarhua Boards Textiles Hessian Weave Embroidery Cotton Thread Inlays Tapestries Needlepoint Decorative Utensils Artisanry Fairs, Crafts Centers and Museums www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 2 The Traveler´s Guide to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLKThe Traveler´s ART IN Guide PERU to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLK ART IN PERU The Power of Diversity The spirit of Peruvian Man, sculpted by art and reveals an essential commitment to fertility, religion, has given rise to a creative vein which abundance and life itself. crops up in an endless variety of shapes, rhythms Tand rituals. Year after year, more than 3.000 folk FESTIVITIES IN PERU festivals, 1.500 musical styles and countless arts and crafts confirm that Peru is home to one of Peru holds around 3.000 folk festivals every year. the most varied folk legacies on Earth. This guide takes a look at a selection of 34 festivals chosen for their tourist popularity, With this outpouring of artistic expression, geographic reach, cultural importance and Peruvians feed on their deep-lying roots to project unique character. a timeless alliance with nature and through rhythms and colors, strengthen their Most of them are dedicated to a patron saint, fall- commitment to life and extend to visitors the ing within the Christian calendar imposed dur- hospitality and reciprocity that are so typical of ing the Vice-regency, after having been carefully Peruvian culture. The many festivals, even those adapted to the magical and religious beliefs of a of a religious nature, reveal the joyous nature of particular region. Peruvians, both men and women, their inclination to be sociable and share their hopes. Apart from these religious festivals, Peru hosts other celebrations that are exclusively pagan, Although they were not always separated from such as those linked to time-honored myths in day-to-day life and work, these festivals are jungle native communities and the countless rooted at the present, marked by an overflowing festivals created over the past few centuries or sensuality, the overwhelming outpouring of reli- decades. More over, on the same day of the gious faith, and the need to interpret in a cre- celebration, migrants from 4.000 regional clubs ative way the temporary reversal of order that hold urban versions of the same festivals that breathes new life into the cohesion of Peruvian they celebrate in their home towns. communities. Today, the festivals echo to the strains of wind and percussion instruments, some A traditional Peruvian festival is, by nature, a of which date from pre-Inca times and some space where all things both sacred and profane which have been created more recently. There come together in a single manifestation of pride, are also dances ranging from the traditional – vitality and sheer joy. like the marinera and the huayno– to more mod- ern rhythms –such as creole waltz and chicha. The Christian rite that is manifestly visible – above all in the highlands– is superimposed on This capacity for musical fusion is the most the pre-Hispanic tradition of taki (singing and striking affirmation of a culture that does not dancing in the Quechua language) dedicated to admit excluding purisms, one which forges a pagan gods that are reborn every year in the guise common identity out of a multi-cultural reality of Occidental saints. filled with differences. The celebrations go hand-in-hand with a busy In Peru these differences, and the living history program of activities that include Mass, in which all of them converge, open up a processions, pilgrimages, dancing, banquets, arts multitude of creative possibilities that take shape and crafts shows and agricultural fairs, folk dan- in the form of objects made for daily use or ces and other shows that blend sensuality and destined for sacred rituals. Artisans threw all spirituality, the circular order and temporary their expressive force into an ample repertoire chaos as well as the past and the future. of pottery, textiles, images, carvings, jewelry and all sorts of arts and crafts that are typical of Peru, Peru’s festivals form a richly colored tapestry such as the Sarhua boards or the San Marcos aimed at reinventing history and producing a retablos. Like most Peruvian folk art, their work celebratory synthesis of Man and Mother Earth. www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 3 The Traveler´s Guide to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLKThe Traveler´s ART IN Guide PERU to FESTIVITIES, MUSIC AND FOLK ART IN PERU FESTIVITIES CALENDAR kerchief in their right hand, while keeping the beat during what is fairly complex choreography. JANUARY Dance steps, characteristic of the marinera in- 1 clude the coqueteo (with the couple dancing very Cuzco closely together) and the skillful cepillado foot- Entrega de Varas work (literally “brushing”). The daring marinera, The power of a scepter danced in the department of La Libertad, fea- tures the man wearing a wide-brimmed hat and At the start of every year, the elders of each com- poncho and the lady dressed in an intricate munity in the area (the yayas) come together to Moche lace dress. From January 20-30, the Gran designate the candidates who are to become the Chimú stadium in the city of Trujillo holds the highest authorities of their villages: the Varayocs. country’s most important marinera festival. This In a festival that features gallons of chicha (maize competition, that draws couples from all over the beer) and llonque (sugarcane alcohol), the mayor country, is organized by the Club Libertad. Dur- or Varayoc receives the scepter or vara that sym- ing the festival, the city also hosts processions bolizes his power. This pre-Hispanic custom has involving floats, and the whole town takes on a been glossed over with Occidental formalities. The festive air. The people of Trujillo gather at the varas are crafted from local wood varieties such main square to dance and celebrate. as chonta palm, black hualtaco, huallacán or membrillo, measure around a meter in length and FEBRUARY are inlaid with gold and silver (Cuzco’s Town Hall 1-14 features a small museum that exhibits some su- Puno perb examples). When a Varayoc steps down from Virgen de la Candelaria his post, he ceases to hold any post in his com- Faith in the folk capital of the Americas munity ever again, and becomes one of the ven- erable elders. For 18 days, the highland town of Puno, nestled on the shores of Lake Titicaca at an altitude of 20 3.870 meters above sea level, is becomes the Folk Canas (Cuzco) Capital of the Americas. The festival gathers Chiaraje more than 200 groups of musicians and dancers Ritual battle to celebrate the Mamacha Candelaria. For the first nine days, the mayordomos (those in charge The tradition of staging ritual battles to ensure of organizing the festivities), decorate the church the fertility of the land lives on in a remote part and pay for Mass, banquets and fireworks dis- of the department of Cuzco. The Pampa del plays. On the main day, February 2, the virgin Chiaraje, at an altitude of 4.700 meters above sea is led through the city in a colorful procession level, in the province of Canas, can be reached by comprising priests, altar boys, the faithful, Chris- a paved road from the old Inca capital and then tians and pagans carefully maintaining the hi- via a dirt road. Here, every year the peaceful vil- erarchy. This is the moment when the troupes lagers of Checcas, Langui and Layo stage an im- of musicians and dancers take the scene, per- pressive battle. Armed with hardened lambswool slings, leather whips and waistcoats decorated with flowers, young warriors taunt each other in the mist or amidst pelting hailstorms.