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Home , Aglianico, Aglianico del Vulture, Decanter, Mastroberardino, Taurasi, Taurasi DOCG

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about . ‘These can proudly be also emerge from Caserta and Benevento compared to the best ,’ he states. His further north, above , to Salerno finest examples of Aglianico del , the further south, where it is bottled under the Premium reds region’s most famous , also offer the Paestum IGT designation. structure and stuffing necessary for remarkable longevity. So while other varieties, such Tantalising as , Casavecchia and Pallagrello Taurasi DOCG wines are produced in a small from the south Nero are the foundation of numerous first-rate zone that encompasses 17 Campanian territorial offerings, it is Aglianico that is the communes, including its namesake village; and are Italy’s prime territory for the increasingly symbol of these two regions’ tradition of points out that was well-regarded Aglianico grape, while Puglia, Italy’s heel, is home to a range distinguished red wines. the most productive district in Italy at the Aglianico is one of the oldest red grape beginning of the 20th century, due to the of other characterful local varieties. Tom Hyland guides us on a tour, and picks varieties cultivated across , planting of pre-phylloxera Aglianico vines. his favourite wines from the country’s warm southern regions according to Mastroberardino, who notes that ‘Thanks to the presence of volcanic ash in the Above: Piero it was introduced by Greek colonists under the soils, built up over centuries from eruptions of Mastroberardino, name Ellenico or Ellanico (a direct reference to nearby Mount Vesuvius, these have 10th-generation head AGLIANICO IS GENERALLY believed to be one opinion. But taste of this wine from ) in the 7th to 6th centuries BC. had a natural resistance to phylloxera,’ he says. of his family-run estates of the three best Italian red ,’ says Piero the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, which are still Today, the variety is planted in all five The vineyards were planted using the pergola in the Campania region Below: Morabianca Mastroberardino, proprietor of the historic drinking beautifully, and you realise that his provinces of Campania, and while the most system, with the canopy overhead; today a few restaurant is in Campania, ‘along with and statement is anything but parochial conceit. famous example of Aglianico is Taurasi from hundred hectares of these 80- to 100-plus- surrounded by vines .’ Given that his most famous wine In Basilicata, to the east of Campania in the the province in the centre of the year-old vines are still currently in use, while at Mastroberardino’s is a Taurasi DOCG, produced exclusively from ‘boot’ of Italy, Vito Paternoster, proprietor of region – commonly referred to as Irpinia, its many sites have been replanted in the modern

Radici Resort Aglianico, you can easily understand his the eponymous winery, is equally bullish Images Cogoli/SIME/4Corners Franco Photograph: historical name – wines of notable typicity Guyot system. ➢ SOUTHERN ITALY

Caggiano, Luigi Tecce, Salvatore Molettieri ways, as the area is dominated by one specific and Fonzone, this last a promising newcomer. Aglianico clone; he comments that these At Feudi di San Gregorio, owner Antonio wines have ‘higher alcohol but lower acidity Capaldo crafts an Irpinia DOC Aglianico that than Taurasi, so they do not age as well’. rivals the finest Taurasi; named Serpico (after Rillo’s Vigne Cataratte Riserva, though , the village that is home to the deeply concentrated, downplays the fruit in winery), this is a top Campanian red. What favour of a strong herbal character and a makes this wine so remarkable is that the distinct mineral streak; the wine generally source is home to 150-year-old vines; shows at its best from seven to 10 years of age. contrast that with vines aged 20-30 years used for the two versions of Taurasi produced by Basilicata difference the winery. These old vines naturally result in In the neighbouring region of Basilicata, the lower yields and higher concentration, but zone in the region’s far also ‘stronger balance already at a young age of northern reaches, near the border with Puglia, the wine’, according to Capaldo. has emerged as a well-respected, if far less For that reason, Capaldo and his winery well-known territory for the Aglianico grape. team decided to reduce ageing for Serpico Within this small zone at the foot of the to 12 months, primarily in large oak casks; extinct Vulture volcano, soils of mixed previous vintages were matured as long as 18 composition, from volcanic to sandy with months in barriques. On the subject of small deposits of iron and magnesium, provide an versus large oak with Aglianico, Capaldo has ideal habitat for producing wines of distinct definite opinions. ‘We are moving towards minerality that age for decades. large oak with all of our versions of Aglianico, Many producers craft multiple offerings, as we believe it is the best way to preserve the the result of particular and fruit of this incredible grape,’ he says. ‘It is the practices. At Grifalco, Lorenzo ‘We are moving towards large oak case for Serpico, of course – the more valuable Piccin currently produces four examples of the fruit, the less intense the oak needed.’ Aglianico del Vulture; vine age, site-specifics with Aglianico, as we believe it is Finally, in the north Campanian province of and cellar technique account for the stylistic Benevento, Aglianico del Taburno is a DOCG variation. The entry-level Gricos, aged in steel the best way to preserve the fruit red produced in an undulating, hilly zone of and large casks, is sourced from Grifalco’s of this incredible grape’ clay and limestone soils north and west of the youngest vineyards in ; Damaschito town of Benevento. At Fontanavecchia, (meaning ‘from ’, a small town) is Antonio Capaldo, Feudi di San Gregorio proprietor Libero Rillo points out that this from vines aged more than 70 years; given a interpretation varies from Taurasi in several of more than 25 days and then ➢

Though regulations allow for as much as explosion of fruit on the palate backed by a 15% of other local red grapes in the blend finish of brown spice notes and tobacco with a (usually Piedirosso), virtually every Taurasi is defining streak of minerality. Aglianico in purezza. Typically identified by its Many noteworthy examples of Taurasi black cherry and bitter chocolate aromas, with focus on the tantalising fruit of the Aglianico healthy natural acidity and firm but not grape; Tecce goes beyond that sensation to aggressive tannins, oak ageing – in large or present a wine of great complexity combining small casks – is a necessity, and the wine must notable persistence with a distinctive sense of be aged for a minimum of three years before place, all the while maintaining ideal release, with at least one year in barrel. equilibrium. Tecce himself calls this wine While Mastroberardino has carried the ‘profound, but always subtle, one that is full torch for Taurasi for decades, today a few and luminous, and extremely long-lived’. Above: Antonio dozen artisan producers have also embraced Above: Libero Rillo of Capaldo, proprietor of this wine. One of the elite craftsmen is Luigi Around Campania Fontanavecchia Feudi di San Gregorio Tecce, whose estate in in the As for other regional examples of Aglianico, southern sector of the production zone is Campi Taurasini – from a production zone Left: Aglianico vines on Top: barrel storage at planted to vines of 80 years or older. His first that covers the Taurasi territory along with an the Fontanavecchia Feudi di San Gregorio’s release was the 2001, and today his Taurasi additional seven neighbouring villages – is also estate, to the west of winery in Campania with the proprietary name Poliphemo is a produced from a minimum of 85% Aglianico, the city of Benevento brilliant representation not only of the typicity but has no requirements regarding oak of the Aglianico grape, but also a stellar treatment or release date. These wines are illustration of local . The current release lighter than Taurasi, yet compare favourably, from the excellent 2012 , matured in a especially in flavour profile and typicity;

combination of tonneaux and botti, offers an notable versions have emerged from Antonio Hyland/Cephas Tom Photograph:

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aged for three years solely in large casks, this the Pian del Moro from Musto Carmelitano. wine is a stellar example of the fruit quality Given recent improvements, the question and winemaking improvements in Vulture. arises – are the wines from Vulture as Progressive Puglia The Damaschito 2012 should display its best noteworthy as those from Taurasi? Piccin TO THE EAST of Campania and Basilicata, qualities in 10-12 years, but will drink well for certainly thinks so: ‘They have a harmony of the Puglia region is characterised by another decade or so after that. acidity and structure, and an elegance that is numerous grape varieties, often delineated Back at Paternoster in Basilicata, Vito difficult to achieve even in Taurasi.’ Capaldo of by local territories. In the north, it is Nero di Paternoster says that the ageing potential for Feudi di San Gregorio, who produces both Troia, specifically in the Castel del Monte his wines is ‘up to 30 years when they reach types of Aglianico, says that he does love both zone, west of Bari, that produces the best red their peak of taste and aromas, and the wines, and while it makes no sense on one wines. A notable example is Rivera’s Puer tannins become velvety, silky and smooth’. level to compare the two, he adds: ‘I do agree Apuliae, a 100% Nero di Troia sourced from Other top examples of Aglianico del Vulture that Aglianico del Vulture is more elegant. But a single vineyard and aged in barrique. built for the long haul include Elena Fucci’s if we broaden the argument to complexity and Owner Sebastiano de Corato notes that this Titolo, Cantine del Notaio’s La Firma and depth, the story is quite the reverse.’ D wine is a leading example of Nero di Troia as a standalone variety, rather than in the traditional blend with . He describes the wine as ‘modern, deep and Hyland’s picks: 10 top reds from Campania & Basilicata very true to the variety’. The far southeast – the Salento Peninsula, Luigi Tecce, Poliphemo, Grifalco, Damaschito, and charred meat aromas, and is quite near the towns of Brindisi and Lecce – is Taurasi, Campania 2012 95 Aglianico del Vulture, complex on the palate, with impressive most famously home to Primitivo and £48.50 Berry Bros & Rudd Basilicata 2012 94 harmony. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 14% . The former – the same grape as One of Taurasi’s greatest N/A UK 0039 0972 31002 California’s – yields powerful exponents; extreme attention From a family that formerly Paternoster, Don Anselmo, wines, generally high in alcohol (15%-17%) Above: vineyards outside Locorotondo in Puglia, between Bari and Brindisi to detail. Aromas of morello made wine in Tuscany, there’s Aglianico del Vulture, with distinct peppery qualities, while the cherry, smoked meat and tar. great purity in its releases. Basilicata 2012 92 latter gives wines that are often more producers, such as Tenuta Li Veli and Tenute Beautiful ripeness and weight Currant, morello cherry and N/A UK www.paternostervini.it subdued with red fruit notes and rounder, Rubino, have recently started to bottle it as a on the palate. Extremely long soy sauce; beautiful ripeness; One of the most celebrated less assertive tannins. Negroamaro’s most monovarietal. At the latter firm, winemaker on the finish, outstanding rich tannins, superb harmony. wines of the zone, this has famous representation is that of Salice Luca Petrelli captures the succulent fruit and complexity and persistence. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13.5% excellent depth of fruit, but is Salentino, one of the region’s most appealing a melange of spice – coriander, clove and Mineral-driven with stunning harmony. never too forward. Intense and trustworthy DOC reds; look for examples cinammon. Two versions – one called Torre Drink 2018-2035 Alcohol 15% Mastroberardino, Radici aromas of black plum, bitter such as the Selvarossa Riserva from Cantine Testa, aged in barriques and rather Port-like; Riserva, Taurasi, Campania chocolate and graphite. Quite due Palme, as well as the stellar Donna Lisa the other, Oltremé, given no oak ageing, Contrade di Taurasi, Taurasi, 2006 94 ripe, with tannins that are rich Riserva from Leone de Castris. being juicier with modest tannins – offer a Campania 2010 94 £76.69 Mondial but non-assertive. Notable persistence. There are numerous value-oriented glimpse into the progressive stance taken by £29.50-£35.99 AG Wines, Les Caves de First produced in 1986, this Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14.5% Puglian examples of Primitivo. Worthy of so many Apulian producers today. D Pyrene, Raeburn, The Smiling Grape Co riserva Taurasi is from a single note are Tenute Rubino’s Punta Aquila and From an artisanal Taurasi producer vineyard. Balsamic and bitter Antonio Caggiano, Salae Domini, Conti Zecca’s bottling. On a more ageworthy Based in Chicago, Tom Hyland is an author, Above: Manduria’s crafting ultra-traditional style wines. chocolate aromas; excellent Irpinia Campi Taurasini, Campania note, Cantine Polvanera’s 17 Primitivo from photographer and educator specialising in Gianfranco Fino Varietally pure Aglianico aromas of persistence and fine tannins. 2013 91 the Gioia del Colle zone, located farther Italian wines. He is in Italy several times a year baked black cherry, coffee and leather. Powerful and still quite young. N/A UK www.cantinecaggiano.it north in Bari province, is a dazzling offering The palate shows subdued wood notes Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13.5% Caggiano is one of the area’s great from 60-plus-year-old alberello (bush- and reveals a graceful and elegant wine Taurasi producers; he also excels with trained) vines, aged solely in stainless steel; balanced by silky tannins. Lengthy on Fontanavecchia, Vigna Cataratte this 100% Aglianico wine. Black cherry, expressive aromas of sour cherry, rose and Hyland’s picks: a taste of Puglia the finish. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5% Riserva, Aglianico del Taburno, violet and sweet tobacco aromas. liquorice, along with elegant tannins and Campania 2012 92 Elegantly styled, with great good acidity make the 2012 a standout. Rivera, Puer Apuliae Tenute Rubino, Feudi di San Gregorio, N/A UK www.fontanavecchia.info purity. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14.5% An alternative style of Primitivo is that of Riserva, Castel del Oltremé, Serpico, Irpinia, Campania Aglianico del Taburno tends to be more Gianfranco Fino, whose wines are from the Monte Nero di Troia , 2010 94 robust than Taurasi, and this is an Terre degli Svevi, Re Manfredi, Primitivo di Manduria zone in the far 2011 92 Salento 2014 91 £43 Corking Wines, Dulwich excellent example. Dried cherry, tar and Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata southwestern reaches of the region, not far £37.48 (2010) Mondial £14.99 Alliance Vintners, Find Me That Wine, leather aromas; powerful, assertive 2012 90 from the Gulf of Taranto. His outstanding This 2011 vintage Deep colour, with Just in Cases, Roberson, Strictly tannins and excellent structure on the N/A UK www.cantineremanfredi.com Es 2012 is made from partially dried grapes marks the initial DOCG iodine, black ink and Wine, Wine Direct, Wine Poole palate. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% An established producer, making wines and aged exclusively in French barriques; release of this riserva. violet floral aromas. 100% Aglianico, this is the of excellent structure. This is a meaty, despite the 16.5% alcohol, the heat does not Aromas of red cherry, Steel-aged, this is quite showcase red from this Luigi Maffini, Kleos, Paestum, earthy syle of Aglianico with notes of come across on the palate or on the finish. tobacco and anise. juicy and ripe, but is celebrated Irpinian producer. Campania, 2012 92 charred meat. Good balance of acidity, A third successful red variety in the Impressive depth of balanced with zesty Ripe cherry and black mint £16.50 Lea & Sandman, WoodWinters though it’s a touch astringent at present. Salento peninsula is Susumaniello; its name fruit and balanced acidity, quite acidity. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5% aromas; excellent weight on the palate; 100% Aglianico from southern Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% is derived from local dialect for ‘donkey’. ripe with strong herbal notes. very good acidity, impressive varietal Campania. Maffini’s wines are always Traditionally used as a blending grape, a few Drink 2017-2024 Alc 14% For full UK stockist details, see p104 character. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% graceful. This one shows earthy cherry For full details of UK stockists, see p104 Photograph: Johanna Huber/SIME/4Corners Images Huber/SIME/4Corners Johanna Photograph:

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