SOUTHERN ITALY about Aglianico. ‘These wines can proudly be also emerge from Caserta and Benevento compared to the best Barolos,’ he states. His further north, above Naples, to Salerno finest examples of Aglianico del Vulture, the further south, where it is bottled under the Premium reds region’s most famous wine, also offer the Paestum IGT designation. structure and stuffing necessary for remarkable longevity. So while other grape varieties, such Tantalising Taurasi as Piedirosso, Casavecchia and Pallagrello Taurasi DOCG wines are produced in a small from the south Nero are the foundation of numerous first-rate zone that encompasses 17 Campanian territorial offerings, it is Aglianico that is the communes, including its namesake village; Campania and Basilicata are Italy’s prime territory for the increasingly symbol of these two regions’ tradition of Mastroberardino points out that Irpinia was well-regarded Aglianico grape, while Puglia, Italy’s heel, is home to a range distinguished red wines. the most productive district in Italy at the Aglianico is one of the oldest red grape beginning of the 20th century, due to the of other characterful local varieties. Tom Hyland guides us on a tour, and picks varieties cultivated across southern Italy, planting of pre-phylloxera Aglianico vines. his favourite wines from the country’s warm southern regions according to Mastroberardino, who notes that ‘Thanks to the presence of volcanic ash in the Above: Piero it was introduced by Greek colonists under the soils, built up over centuries from eruptions of Mastroberardino, name Ellenico or Ellanico (a direct reference to nearby Mount Vesuvius, these vineyards have 10th-generation head AGLIANICO IS GENERALLY believed to be one opinion. But taste vintages of this wine from Greece) in the 7th to 6th centuries BC. had a natural resistance to phylloxera,’ he says. of his family-run estates of the three best Italian red grapes,’ says Piero the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, which are still Today, the variety is planted in all five The vineyards were planted using the pergola in the Campania region Below: Morabianca Mastroberardino, proprietor of the historic drinking beautifully, and you realise that his provinces of Campania, and while the most system, with the canopy overhead; today a few restaurant is winery in Campania, ‘along with Nebbiolo and statement is anything but parochial conceit. famous example of Aglianico is Taurasi from hundred hectares of these 80- to 100-plus- surrounded by vines Sangiovese.’ Given that his most famous wine In Basilicata, to the east of Campania in the the Avellino province in the centre of the year-old vines are still currently in use, while at Mastroberardino’s is a Taurasi DOCG, produced exclusively from ‘boot’ of Italy, Vito Paternoster, proprietor of region – commonly referred to as Irpinia, its many sites have been replanted in the modern Radici Resort Aglianico, you can easily understand his the eponymous winery, is equally bullish Images Cogoli/SIME/4Corners Franco Photograph: historical name – wines of notable typicity Guyot system. ➢ SOUTHERN ITALY Caggiano, Luigi Tecce, Salvatore Molettieri ways, as the area is dominated by one specific and Fonzone, this last a promising newcomer. Aglianico clone; he comments that these At Feudi di San Gregorio, owner Antonio wines have ‘higher alcohol but lower acidity Capaldo crafts an Irpinia DOC Aglianico that than Taurasi, so they do not age as well’. rivals the finest Taurasi; named Serpico (after Rillo’s Vigne Cataratte Riserva, though Sorbo Serpico, the village that is home to the deeply concentrated, downplays the fruit in winery), this is a top Campanian red. What favour of a strong herbal character and a makes this wine so remarkable is that the distinct mineral streak; the wine generally source vineyard is home to 150-year-old vines; shows at its best from seven to 10 years of age. contrast that with vines aged 20-30 years used for the two versions of Taurasi produced by Basilicata difference the winery. These old vines naturally result in In the neighbouring region of Basilicata, the lower yields and higher concentration, but Aglianico del Vulture zone in the region’s far also ‘stronger balance already at a young age of northern reaches, near the border with Puglia, the wine’, according to Capaldo. has emerged as a well-respected, if far less For that reason, Capaldo and his winery well-known territory for the Aglianico grape. team decided to reduce oak ageing for Serpico Within this small zone at the foot of the to 12 months, primarily in large oak casks; extinct Vulture volcano, soils of mixed previous vintages were matured as long as 18 composition, from volcanic to sandy with months in barriques. On the subject of small deposits of iron and magnesium, provide an versus large oak with Aglianico, Capaldo has ideal habitat for producing wines of distinct definite opinions. ‘We are moving towards minerality that age for decades. large oak with all of our versions of Aglianico, Many producers craft multiple offerings, as we believe it is the best way to preserve the the result of particular terroirs and fruit of this incredible grape,’ he says. ‘It is the winemaking practices. At Grifalco, Lorenzo ‘We are moving towards large oak case for Serpico, of course – the more valuable Piccin currently produces four examples of the fruit, the less intense the oak needed.’ Aglianico del Vulture; vine age, site-specifics with Aglianico, as we believe it is Finally, in the north Campanian province of and cellar technique account for the stylistic Benevento, Aglianico del Taburno is a DOCG variation. The entry-level Gricos, aged in steel the best way to preserve the fruit red produced in an undulating, hilly zone of and large casks, is sourced from Grifalco’s of this incredible grape’ clay and limestone soils north and west of the youngest vineyards in Venosa; Damaschito town of Benevento. At Fontanavecchia, (meaning ‘from Maschito’, a small town) is Antonio Capaldo, Feudi di San Gregorio proprietor Libero Rillo points out that this from vines aged more than 70 years; given a interpretation varies from Taurasi in several maceration of more than 25 days and then ➢ Though regulations allow for as much as explosion of fruit on the palate backed by a 15% of other local red grapes in the blend finish of brown spice notes and tobacco with a (usually Piedirosso), virtually every Taurasi is defining streak of minerality. Aglianico in purezza. Typically identified by its Many noteworthy examples of Taurasi black cherry and bitter chocolate aromas, with focus on the tantalising fruit of the Aglianico healthy natural acidity and firm but not grape; Tecce goes beyond that sensation to aggressive tannins, oak ageing – in large or present a wine of great complexity combining small casks – is a necessity, and the wine must notable persistence with a distinctive sense of be aged for a minimum of three years before place, all the while maintaining ideal release, with at least one year in barrel. equilibrium. Tecce himself calls this wine While Mastroberardino has carried the ‘profound, but always subtle, one that is full torch for Taurasi for decades, today a few and luminous, and extremely long-lived’. Above: Antonio dozen artisan producers have also embraced Above: Libero Rillo of Capaldo, proprietor of this wine. One of the elite craftsmen is Luigi Around Campania Fontanavecchia Feudi di San Gregorio Tecce, whose estate in Paternopoli in the As for other regional examples of Aglianico, southern sector of the production zone is Campi Taurasini – from a production zone Left: Aglianico vines on Top: barrel storage at planted to vines of 80 years or older. His first that covers the Taurasi territory along with an the Fontanavecchia Feudi di San Gregorio’s release was the 2001, and today his Taurasi additional seven neighbouring villages – is also estate, to the west of winery in Campania with the proprietary name Poliphemo is a produced from a minimum of 85% Aglianico, the city of Benevento brilliant representation not only of the typicity but has no requirements regarding oak of the Aglianico grape, but also a stellar treatment or release date. These wines are illustration of local terroir. The current release lighter than Taurasi, yet compare favourably, from the excellent 2012 vintage, matured in a especially in flavour profile and typicity; combination of tonneaux and botti, offers an notable versions have emerged from Antonio Hyland/Cephas Tom Photograph: 96 | Italy 2017 • DECANTER DECANTER • Italy 2017 | 97 SOUTHERN ITALY aged for three years solely in large casks, this the Pian del Moro from Musto Carmelitano. wine is a stellar example of the fruit quality Given recent improvements, the question and winemaking improvements in Vulture. arises – are the wines from Vulture as Progressive Puglia The Damaschito 2012 should display its best noteworthy as those from Taurasi? Piccin TO THE EAST of Campania and Basilicata, qualities in 10-12 years, but will drink well for certainly thinks so: ‘They have a harmony of the Puglia region is characterised by another decade or so after that. acidity and structure, and an elegance that is numerous grape varieties, often delineated Back at Paternoster in Basilicata, Vito difficult to achieve even in Taurasi.’ Capaldo of by local territories. In the north, it is Nero di Paternoster says that the ageing potential for Feudi di San Gregorio, who produces both Troia, specifically in the Castel del Monte his wines is ‘up to 30 years when they reach types of Aglianico, says that he does love both zone, west of Bari, that produces the best red their peak of taste and aromas, and the wines, and while it makes no sense on one wines. A notable example is Rivera’s Puer tannins become velvety, silky and smooth’.