VOL. 148 SEPTEMBER 2020 Fabulous Fabrics 6 12 Japanese Fabrics and the Silk Flowers Conveying the Evolution of the Kimono Elegance of the Court An interview with Nagasaki Iwao, Professor The courtly custom of making and in the Department of Textile and Clothing displaying silk flowers is being kept alive at Kyoritsu Women’s University. thanks to the skills of Oki Suju. 8 The New Traditions of Nishijin Textiles A centuries-old weaving company is producing unprecedented Nishijin textiles through new techniques and collaborations. 14 Noren: The Face of a Shop Features Many shops in Japan hang noren at their entrances which have traditionally been made by skilled local artisans. 10 Doncho: The Weaver’s Giant Canvas The mighty theater curtains of Japan are intricate handwoven works of art in themselves. 4 22 24 PRIME MINISTER’S POLICY-RELATED NEWS SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY DIARY The Public Opening of the A New Rust-Free Material That Also State Guest Houses Is Stronger and Lighter than Steel COPYRIGHT © 2020 CABINET OFFICE OF JAPAN WHERE TO FIND US The views expressed in this magazine by the interviewees Tokyo Narita Airport terminals 1 ● JR East Travel Service Center (Tokyo Narita Airport) ● JR Tokyo Station Tourist and contributors do not necessarily represent the views of Information Center ● Tokyo Tourist Information Center (Haneda Airport, Tokyo Metropolitan Government the Cabinet Office or the Government of Japan. No article Building, Keisei Ueno Station) ● Niigata Airport ● Chubu Centrair International Airport Tourist Information & or any part thereof may be reproduced without the express Service ● Kansai Tourist Information Center (Kansai Int’l Airport) ● Fukuoka Airport Tourist Information permission of the Cabinet Office. Copyright inquiries should be made through a form available at: www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/mailform/inquiry.html 2 | highlighting japan ISSUE 148, SEPTEMBER 2020 Theme for SEPTEMBER: FABULOUS FABRICS abric weaving and dyeing techniques have a long 16 history in Japan and Imabari: The Home of Towels have been integral to the Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture is F development of a sophisticated synonymous with the production of high- fashion culture epitomized by quality towels. the kimono as well as numerous other unique fabric forms. In this month’s Feature, we take 20 a close look at some of the A Reusable Shopping Bag That Folds in an Instant representative fabrics of Japan A new type of bag which is compact and can and their wide range of uses. be folded quickly has been a big hit with shoppers in Japan. 18 The Furoshiki Prince and the Revival of the Wrapping Cloth Yokoyama Isao is promoting the revival of furoshiki wrapping cloths by demonstrat- ing their many uses. 26 28 30 MY WAY ENJOY DRINKING ARCHITECTURAL TREASURES Using Knitting to Support The Delicate Flavor of Koshu Japan’s Oldest Extant Shrine in Recovery and Reconstruction Wines the Shinmei-zukuri Style PRODUCTION The Japan Journal ON THE COVER MANAGING EDITOR Sawaji Osamu Fabulous Fabrics EDITORS Alex Hendy, Chiba Hitoshi, Fujita Mao Photo: Aizawa Tadashi EDITORIAL SUPPORT Kiura Eriko CONTRIBUTORS Kato Kyoko, Sasaki Takashi, Sato Kumiko, Sugiyama Mamoru, Umezawa Akira, Uno Masaki, Yanagisawa Miho EDITORS’ NOTE DESIGN Imai Mei, Okadome Hirofumi Japanese names in this publication are written in Japanese order: PHOTOS Aizawa Tadashi, Sasaki Takashi, Sato Kumiko, Yanagisawa Miho family name first, personal name last. SEPTEMBER 2020 | 3 Prime Minister’s Diary JAPAN-AUSTRALIA SUMMIT TELEPHONE TALK AND JAPAN-U.S. SUMMIT TELEPHONE TALK The leaders confirmed that, as Suga’s appointment to office. He fully “Special Strategic Partners,” they reaffirmed Prime Minister Suga’s would further develop their com- remarks, and expressed his wish to plementary economic relationship. further consolidate the Japan-U.S. Looking ahead to suppression of relationship with Prime Minister COVID-19, the leaders also confirmed Suga. the importance of realizing the “Free After discussing their respective and Open Indo-Pacific,” deepening efforts to combat COVID-19, the two their cooperation for the stability and leaders agreed to continue Japan-U.S. prosperity of the international com- cooperation in the development and munity as a whole, and collaborat- distribution of therapeutics and vac- ing with like-minded countries in the cines for the disease. region. In addition, Prime Minister In addition, the two leaders shared Suga requested Australia’s continued the view that Japan and the United cooperation in early resolution of the States would work closely together North Korean abductions issue. to address regional issues, including Photograph of the Prime Minister’s press conference following his designation Prime Minister Morrison North Korea, and to achieve a free expressed his gratitude for the and open Indo-Pacific. With particu- n September 20, 2020, Mr. devoted and brave search and res- lar regard to the abductions issue, Suga Yoshihide, Prime Min- cue operation to date by Japan Coast Prime Minister Suga expressed his Oister of Japan, held a summit Guard in the case of missing livestock intention to work resolutely towards telephone talk with the Hon. Scott cargo ship “Gulf Livestock 1” which the early resolution of the abduc- Morrison, MP, Prime Minister of the had two Australians aboard. Prime tions issue, and asked for President Commonwealth of Australia and the Minister Suga replied that Japan Trump’s continued full support Honorable Donald J. Trump, Presi- would cooperate as much as possible. towards its resolution. dent of the United States of Amer- President Trump also stated that ica. The overview of the talks is as Japan-U.S. Summit Telephone Talk Prime Minister Suga could contact follows. At the outset, Prime Minister Suga him 24 hours a day if needed. emphasized to President Trump that Japan-Australia Summit Telephone Talk the Japan-U.S. alliance is the corner- Prime Minister Morrison conveyed stone of peace and stability in the his congratulations and his desire to region and the international com- establish a good relation with Prime munity, and that alongside Presi- Minister Suga. In return, Prime Min- dent Trump, he would like to further ister Suga thanked Prime Minister strengthen the Japan-U.S. alliance, Morrison and stated his willingness which has been made stronger than to build a good relationship with ever before based on the deep per- Prime Minister Morrison like his pre- sonal trust between former Prime decessor did with a deep trust, and Minister Abe and President Trump. Photograph of the Prime Minister holding the to strengthen the Japan-Australia In response, President Trump offered press conference after the Telephone Talk on relationship. his congratulations on Prime Minister September 20 Photographs and text courtesy of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan and the Cabinet Public Relations Office of the Government of Japan 4 | highlighting japan Feature FABULOUS FABRICS A furoshiki specialty store FABULOUS FABRICS Japan’s age-old weaving and dyeing techniques have informed the development of a wide range of unique and evolving applications. The sophisticated techniques and richly decorative fabrics first used to make the robes worn in the imperial court are now used not only for kimono but also for interior furnishings and even as audio speakers. Meanwhile, elegant but durable noren still hang at the entrances to many of Japan’s shops, and theaters continue to commission enormous handwoven doncho stage curtains in ever more ambitious patterns. As the furoshiki wrapping cloths of yore make a comeback in these environment-conscious times and the luxurious towels of Imabari become familiar products around the world, we take a look at these and more of the fabulous fabrics of Japan. Photo: Courtesy of Yokoyama Isao SEPTEMBER 2020 | 5 Feature FABULOUS FABRICS Japanese Fabrics and the Evolution of the Kimono Nagasaki Iwao, Professor in the Department of Textile and Clothing at Kyoritsu Women’s University court attire in China. Junihitoe, the formal court dress of women at this time comprising multiple abric weaving and dyeing techniques have layers of colorful mon-orimono, is representa- a long history in Japan and have been inte- tive of this style. On the other hand, common folk Fgral to the development of a unique fashion mainly wore clothing made from hemp, until cot- culture epitomized by the kimono. We spoke with ton became common in the seventeenth century. Nagasaki Iwao, a Professor in the Department of During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the Textile and Clothing at Kyoritsu Women’s Univer- wearing of silk kosode, garments with cylindri- sity, about the historical characteristics of Japa- cal sleeves with small openings, precursor to the nese fabrics and clothing. modern kimono, became common among women in the samurai class. And in the Edo period (1603– When does the history of Japanese fabrics begin? 1867), kimono fashion blossomed, based on the We don’t know exactly when fabrics were first kosode. made in Japan, but we assume that fabrics were initially created for use as clothing to protect Why did the wearing of colorful kimono become the body and later came to be used for a variety so widespread in the Edo period? of purposes. It is thought that during the Jomon One important reason is that Edo-period society period (from 10,000 BCE until the start of the was peaceful for around 300 years and people’s Yayoi period), the main raw material for making lifestyles improved. Not just the aristocracy fabric was hemp. In the Yayoi period (10th century and the samurai class, but also ordinary people BCE–300 CE), silk came to be used, drawing on became able to dress fashionably depending on silk making techniques introduced from mainland their financial strength. In particular, the splendor China and the Korean peninsula. of women’s kimono increased through improve- As fabric weaving skills developed, the materi- ments in dyeing techniques such as plant dyeing als and techniques used for making clothes came with indigo.