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Tropical Birding Tour Report

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Tropical Birding Tour Report Southeast Brazil Atlantic Rainforest and Savanna 26 September - 13 October 2009 Tour leader: Nick Athanas Report and photos by Nick Athanas all photos were taken on the tour Photo left: Yellow-fronted Woodpecker from Intervales State Park Our 2009 Southeast Brazil tour was surprising in many ways. Only two people signed up for it, thanks in large part to the global recession. Even though time was short and I had already pretty much given up on the tour, I decided to run it anyway, a decision I nearly came to regret, as it was a struggle to get lodge spaces at short notice. Fortuned smiled broadly, and it all came together in the end. A pity no one else signed up, as it turned out to be one of the most successful tours I've ever guided. Despite missing nearly a day at Intervales due to a cancelled flight, not to mention having more than out share of rain due to El Niño, and overlapping with a crazy busy holiday weekend near the end, and not even going at an excessively fast pace, we managed to see more birds on this tour than I every have before. For reasons we'll never know, the birds were just especially responsive and easy to see. Normally shy birds showed well, most notably the antbirds, of which we saw (well!) 33 of the 34 species possible on the itinerary. We came to expect surprises after a series of unexpected "write-ins" bolstered the list. A terrific trip in the end, with a list that will be hard to top, but I'll sure give it a shot in 2010! Intervales The trip certainly did not start well. Bob & Tony had their flight to São Paulo cancelled due to a TAP airlines pilot strike, and arrived 24 hours late. Intervales is arguable the best spot on the entire tour, and to miss a day here is really painful. We all agreed to minimize the damage by getting up at a ridiculously early hour and driving straight to Intervales in time to save part of the morning. This worked out well, and we got to the state park by 7:45am, even seeing our only Streamer-tailed Tyrant en route. We still ended up having two full days at this remote and fantastic park, and as usual it did not disappoint. You are required to be accompanied by a park ranger while here, but a couple of them are great birders and it would a good idea to hire them even it weren't necessary. We had Luis this time, and I've birded with him on many other trips, and he really knows the birds here. His brother is also getting quite good! Here are some of the key birds we saw during our time at Intervales, and most of them we saw nowhere else on the tour: Black-fronted Piping-Guan , Pileated Parrot , Long-trained Nightjar , Dusky-throated Hermit , Buff-bellied Puffbird , Saffron and Spot-billed Toucanets , Ochre- collared Piculet , Yellow-fronted Woodpecker , Rufous-breasted Leaftosser , Orange-breasted Thornbird , Pale-browed Treehunter , Spot-backed , Giant , Large-tailed , and White-bearded Antshrikes , Bertoni's and Ochre-rumped Antbirds , Squamate Antbird , Sao Paulo , Bay-ringed , and Oustalet's Tyrannulets , Brown-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant , Sharpbill , Hooded Berryeater , Bare- throated Bellbird , Cinnamon-vented Piha , Red-ruffed Fruitcrow , Black-legged Dacnis , and Half- collared Sparrow . Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 1 Ubatuba After our final morning at Intervales, we drove back through São Paulo where the traffic was thankfully not too bad, stopping near Moji da Cruzes for the Parana Antwren . This bird was far harder this year than previous years thanks to the rainy winter and a new fence built by the owner to keep unscrupulous neighbors from dumping their trash. Even though I got permission to go in, there is no gate, we had to go through the barbed-wire fence and wade through the flooded reedbeds. We were all completely soaked by the end of it, but luckily a male came in at the 11th hour and we had great views of it. We spent the next three nights not far from Ubatuba, birding several different spots in the area. Heavy rain cost us some birding time, but on some of these occasions we were able to escape to Jonas's fantastic hummer and banana feeders, where we had 11 hummers including Saw-billed Hermit , Sombre Hummingbird , Black Jacobin , Festive Coquette , and White-chinned Sapphire , as well as tons of tanagers on the fruit like Azure-shouldered , Golden-chevroned , Brazilian , and Green-headed . A singing Shrike-like Cotinga almost next to the main highway may have been the biggest surprise of the trip. It came straight in to playback for brilliant views, and a woman walking down the road to work even stopped to have a look, wondering what all the excitement was about! It was a young bird, probably wandering in search of a territory, as it was not refound. Other nice sightings from around here included Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle , Blond-crested Woodpecker , Orange-eyed Thornbird , Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner , Tufted Antshrike , Spot-breasted Antvireo , Unicolored Antwren , Scaled Antbird , Black-cheeked Gnateater , Spotted Bamboowren , Slaty Bristlefront , Gray-capped Tyrannulet , Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant , and Buff-throated Purpletuft . Our final morning we birded north of the town of Perequê, the best known stake-out for Black-hooded Antwren , which we found easily (nest building) as well as Tataupa Tinamou next to the road, a brilliant male Frilled Coquette , our only Yellow-eared Woodpecker , Chestnut-backed Antshrike , Fork-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant , Riverbank Warbler , and others. Saw-billed Hermit Sombre Hummingbird Azure-shouldered Tanager Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 2 REGUA As we arrived at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, there was one of the reintroduced Red-billed Curassows right in the driveway. It had lost it's radio transmitter - does that make it "tickable"? Hey, I'm not the list police. There was time for some birding around the wetlands in the afternoon. The birding is easy and there's a lot to see. A few of the better ones were Masked Duck , Rufescent Tiger-Heron , Wing-banded Hornero , Yellow-chinned Spinetail , Black-capped Donacobius , and Chestnut-capped Blackbird . Staying out after dusk got us the stunning Tawny-browed Owl as well as a somewhat unexpected Spot-tailed Nightjar sitting on the ground. The next day we took a rather long hike up into the reserve. The weather was looking bad, but luckily the rain held off, and it was a pleasantly cool day with great bird activity. Having already seen the Shrike-like Cotinga in Ubatuba, we could relax and take our time up the trail, finding White-necked Hawk , Surucua Trogon , Rufous-capped Motmot , Crescent-chested Puffbird , Yellow-throated Woodpecker , Black-capped and White-eyed Foliage-gleaners , White-throated Woodcreeper , Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike , Gray-hooded Flycatcher , Grayish Mourner , Pin-tailed and Swallow-tailed Manakins , Temminck's Seedeater , and Blue-naped Chlorophonia . The best bird of the day had to be the Black- capped Screech-Owl that flew out of it's roosting hole when we got too close and sat full in the open on a branch! Check out the photo above. On our second full day, we took a long day trip up to Pico da Caledonia in the Serra dos Órgãos mountains. The target here is the extremely local Gray-winged Cotinga , which did not disappoint, as it came in and showed itself better than ever. We also had Black-and-gold Cotinga here (photo left) as other high elevation birds like Plovercrest , Rufous-tailed Antbird , Rufous-backed Antvireo , and Mouse-colored Tapaculo . White-necked Hawk Rufous-tailed Antbird Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 3 Before heading for Itatiaia, we took a detour to the coast to see Restinga Antwren . We saw it easily, also finding a surprise Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch nearby. A strong south wind brought a few pelagics in close, and we saw a few Manx Shearwaters and a Parasitic Jaeger among the more common Brown Boobies . We drove a few hours to Itatiaia National Park, seeing the landmarks of Rio as we crossed over the 13 km Niterói Bridge (the longest in South America). Itatiaia This is the oldest of Brazil's national parks, and one of the most visited. It provides easy access to nice forest from the foothills all the way up to treeline. Access to the highest elevations is along a different road, so we stayed in two different hotels to minimize travel time, both superb, the Hotel do Ypê and the Hotel São Gotardo. We had a day of birding out of the Ypê, and it started with a bang with a Swallow- tailed Cotinga from the parking lot right after breakfast - one of the coolest and most sought-after birds of the Atlantic Forest, and the only one we saw on the tour. It was hard to beat that but we tried with a terrific Robust Woodpecker seen soon after. Other birds for the day included Dusky-legged Guan , Scale-throated Hermit , Scaled Woodcreeper , White-bibbed Antbird , Such's Antthrush , Drab- breasted Pygmy-Tyrant , Buffy-fronted Seedeater , and a decidedly uncooperative Southern Antpipit . Next day we left early to drive the 1h15m to the Algulhas Negras road at the upper part of the park, where the birding was absolutely out-of-this-world. The birds were virtually falling into our laps, and we had seen pretty much everything available by lunchtime! Not just the easy ones, either. A partial list of the victims of our binoculars: Speckle-breasted Antpitta , Rufous-tailed Antthrush , Black-capped Piprites , Itatiaia Spinetail (photo above), Araucaria Tit-Spinetail , Gray-bellied Spinetail , Sharp- tailed Streamcreeper , Thick-billed Saltator , Olivaceous Elaenia , Serra do Mar , Mottle-cheeked , and Greenish Tyrannulets , Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin , Bay-chested and Buff-throated Warbling-Finches , Blackish Rail , and White-rumped Hawk .
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