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Technical information Checking your equipment Ice axes and crampons are basically an Ice axes extension of the limbs, aiding progression on Before each use, inspect: ice or frozen rock. Walking on ice, repeated - for cracks and deformities striking, and mixed climbing or dry-tooling are - the condition of the rivets, the attachment of activities that put great demands and wear on the head, the condition and attachment of the the equipment. leash - the condition and attachment of the pick; Crampons sharpen if necessary, replace bent or worn picks Before each use, inspect: - the bindings: the condition and the fastening Retire your ice axes or crampons: of the toe and heel bail attachments, the - if the results of your inspection are not rivets (e.g. the SIDELOCK’s lever), the plastic satisfactory parts, the webbing and the functioning of the - after a significant shock load or impact adjustment buckles - if you have any doubt about their reliability - for cracks and deformities on the metallic TURBINE ICEFLUTE MULTIHOOK structure of the crampon, particularly around After each outing, clean and dry all equipment Crank for placing and removing LASER ice screws. Protective ice-screw holder. Holds five ice screws. This multifunctional hook can be used to thread an the front points. Remove the ANTISNOW for a carefully according to the instructions in the Fits in the hanger once the screw is engaged. Long Securely holds screws and allows for quick, ice anchor, clean wired nuts and camming devices more thorough inspection. technical notices. lever arm to facilitate placement in the ice. Rotating one-handed use. Can be attached directly to a or clean out an ice screw. 8 mm wrench integrated After each use, clean and dry your crampons. Spray with lubricant to avoid corrosion. … www.petzl.com/ppe handle offers a good grip even with gloves. Easily harness or worn on the chest. Open-ended design in handle for tightening bolts, etc. Sharpen (or have sharpened) the points by filing accessible when climbing: adjustable elasticized helps avoid ice/snow build-up. Tubes can be used Reference: 04950 the side of the tooth, never the top (except for bandolier system for carrying. individually or linked together. Weight: 40 g the forged front points). File by hand only, to Reference: 65050 Reference: V10 Height: 280 mm avoid heating which may affect the properties Weight: 80 g Weight: 155 g of the steel. Holds ice screws up to 21 cm Verify the proper engagement of the rapid adjustment system and test the attachment of the crampon to the boot. Information is non-exhaustive; consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each item of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) on its technical notice or at www.petzl.com/ppe Technical information Basics 1 Be very aware of the conditions 2 Don’t forget your helmet and 4 Think about protecting the of the ice and the surrounding headlamp seconding climber environment You must wear a helmet at the base of the Set up your stations to the side, not directly in NITRO 3 Consider this activity as a mountaineering climb, as you would when climbing. A face line with the next pitch. Place enough gear on shield can protect the eyes from flying ice traverses so that the second climber doesn’t Energy absorber for a quickdraw used for dubious Other ice and mixed climbing activity, with serious and variable risks; rapid shards. Remember to take a headlamp for late pendulum in a fall. protection on ice or rock. Reduces the impact force products: changes in conditions can increase the risk at an icefall from “acceptable” to “dangerous”, finishes. Keep your headlamp warm by having on protection in the event of a severe fall (absorber - SPIRIT carabiner even “unacceptable”. it close to your body during the day. Carry a begins to deploy at 2.5 kN). - Am’D carabiner How have the conditions been over the past threading tool, a cordelette equal to or thicker 5 Managing time, gear and effort - ATTACHE 3D ultralight carabiner than 8 mm, and a long ice screw in order to be Reference: 67800 few weeks? What is the forecast temperature? Ice climbing is generally practiced during the - FIN’ANNEAU Dyneema sewn sling able to set up a natural ice thread anchor at any Weight: 60 g Double-check the ice quality on site. Is there shortest days of the year. Be quick in all the - CLIPPER quick attach leash given moment. Strength: 22 kN. an avalanche risk from above? Are there other transitions, when installing the belay stations, Length: 16 cm - FREELOCK fixed leash for ice climbing climbers already in the route? If so, avoid and during all maneuvers. This will easily save - Spurs for DART or DARTWIN crampons climbing the same line. that precious half-hour which will allow you to - SPATHA knife with carabiner hole 3 Use double ropes descend before dark. - e+LITE emergency headlamp... Avoid falling, if possible: Falling with ice axes in Organize your clothing well (remove layers your hands and crampons on your feet can have when climbing and put them on to stay warm Find all products on pages 140 - 154. serious consequences. at the station); one pitch may take 30 to Clip the ropes in alternately along the route, and 45 minutes per team member, even an hour, use energy absorbers (e.g. NITRO 3) to limit the to climb... beware of freezing winds and shock force on the ice screws in case of a fall. dripping water that can make the wait at the station very unpleasant. Manage your effort well, standing on your feet whenever possible so as to not exhaust the upper body; release and relax the forearms when you can. Can you spot the second climber in the photo?! © Tony Lamiche Ice climbing and mixed Number 3 Gully, Ben Nevis. 84 85 Technical information Tips B. Progression Triangular progression (balanced positioning in triangle form): Rotation for remote striking. Three contact points: the two feet and one ice tool, centered over the feet A. Tips for striking Ice axe Resting positions. Mantling. Switching hands when traversing. Crampons Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential. Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well user instructions and technical manuals. Technical Clipping the quickdraw while dry tooling. Shock force reduction on directional anchor with energy absorbing quickdraw. Ice axe in hand. Ice axe on shoulder. No hesitation for Ueli Steck, in the key pitch of The Secret at Ben Nevis. Fall factor: 6/4 = 1.5 Dynamic rope Shock load = 7 kN 3 m 1 m 6 m 9 kN To reduce the shock force on the ice screws in case of a fall, clip the ropes in alternately along the route. NITRO absorber 3 m - 17 % 1 m 6 m 7,5 kN Comparison of shock force with and without an energy absorber. © Tony Lamiche Ice climbing and mixed www.petzl.com 86 87 C. Ice screws D. Ice threads: preparing the anchor for the rappel Ice screw placements. Clean the placement area. Place the ice screw at hip height. Clean off any fragile surface ice to create an ice thread in more compact Building an ice thread anchor. ice. Temporary protection while placing Unscrew the LASER SONIC ice Empty the ice screws, protect the teeth and threads. Depending on the ice quality and temperature, make one or several Rappel on ice thread. a screw. screw without unclipping the rope. connected threads. Connecting the ice thread with one or more ice The leader descends on ice thread and ice screws. screws for rappels. Once the thread has been tested, the second pulls the screw(s) and descends. Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential. Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well user instructions and technical manuals. Technical Two-screw belay. Three-screw belay. Make sure the belay is in the right spot. What’s the best solution? wonders Yann Mimet on the pillar of Babylon, VII, 8, in the Number Three Gully at Ben Nevis. © Tony Lamiche Ice climbing and mixed www.petzl.com 88 89.
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