A New Private Art Museum Opens in Moscow 28 Russian Painting & Sculpture of the Silver Age 30

advertising CONTENTS 6 Editor's choice Pelageya: Let's come together 6 Russian treat 6 Legend pays a visit 7 George Michael 7 8 Shopping news Debenhams opens flagship store in Moscow 8 Mail Boxes Etc opens its first Moscow store 8 Rolls-Royce opens a new showroom 8

9 Special report Welcome to Singapore 9 Singapore and Russia, an Encounter 10 People and Words 14 Russian's Special Economic Zones 15 Getting there 16 Where to stay 18 Food industry has eyes on Russia 20 Singapore Airline grows far beyond its island base 22 Singapore is perfect for relaxing 24

25 Business features Students show their skills in advertising 25 David Whitehouse, Savant 26

28 Art A new private Art museum opens in Moscow 28 Russian painting & sculpture of the Silver Age 30

31 Features Hiking the Caucasus mountains 31 Student's view from the provinces 32

34 Hospitality news Blooming Sakura 34 Yuri Navarro goes it alone 34 Scandinavia Cafe opens for summer 34 Marriott is 80 years old 34 35 Wine & Dine Fetish 35 Around the World with Shiraz 37 Ichiban Boshi 41 Adrian Quetglas 42 52 Out & About Moscovites and the English Toast St. George 52 Commercial Real Estate Moscow Awards 2007 52 40 years of Malaysian-Russian Relations hailed 53 Land Rover 54 Novotel Sheremetyevo 15th anniversary 55

06 2007 LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

Our cover story this month is a Special Report on Singapore. The catalyst for this was the second Russia-Singapore Business Forum held in Singapore in March which attracted a host of high-level Russians, including Herman Gref, Minister of Economy and Trade, the Prime Minister of Tatarstan and business magnate Oleg Deripaska. The forum is the brainchild of Singapore’s Ambassador to Russia, Michael Tay, who graces our cover. The forum celebrates a growing relationship between the tiny City State in South-East Asia and the giant Russian Federation. In this relationship, Singapore is definitely punching well above its weight and holding its own. The meteoric economic progress that Russia is making and the quick switch from a developing nation to a developed nation is epitomized by the maturity apparent in the country’s real estate market. We are pleased to highlight this trend through a report by Jones Lang LaSalle that we reprint in this issue, plus a profile of Savant, the construction services company, by James Blake our business writer. We were unable to resist the temptation of Arkady Novikov’s continuously growing chain of restaurants, so this month we review JuJu restaurant where the Brother- hood of Knights of the Vine Russia held their monthly wine tasting, sampling different wines from around the world based on the Shiraz grape. Taking a look at the restaurant business, we interview Taki Tsutsui, who is oversee- ing the development of the RE&S holding company’s Ichiban Boshi chain of restaurants in Moscow and who has just added a second brand, Tsvetenie Sakury, a Japanese fine dining outlet to complement their democratically positioned Ichiban Boshi. Closer to home our travel feature this month takes us to the mountains of the Caucasus and given their proximity to Sochi, they are a lot closer than many of us in John Ortega Moscow might think. Owner and Publisher Shopping choices continue to grow in Moscow, and across Russia. After the ultra- expensive designer names have all secured their place in the local market, the “next wave” of retailers is moving in, and Shopping News tells us who! Natalia Shuvalova not only tells us the events we should not miss this month in Editor’s choice but unearths a young Russian businessman, Igor Markin, who is creating the first private Art Museum since the heady days of Tsarist Russia. That is definitely a ‘must see!’

moscow telephone codes change Dear readers please note that since the beginning of 2007 the stationary telephone codes were changed. Now there are 2 codes functioning: -495 and -499. For those who have 495 code: out of 495 you dial. To 495 – 7 digits. To 499 – 8 (499) 7 digits. To mobile – 8 (code) 7 digits. For those who have 499 code: out of 499 you dial. To 499 – 499 7 digits To 495 – 8 (495) 7 digits. To mobile – 8 (code) 7 digits. In any combination of numbers the call is considered and billed as local.

general director and publisher contributors John Ortega, 784-2834 Alex Ferrier, Anne Coombes, Edie Gibson, Annet Cover photo for Passport by Serge Golovach [email protected] Kulyagina, Charles Borden, Linda Lippner, editor-in-chief Steve Walden, Natalia Shuvalova John Bonar, 959-2873, 8 (916) 544-8073 proof reader [email protected] Ian Mitchell assistant editor Anna Kulyagina, 959-2271, 8 (903) 243-1318 designer [email protected] Marina Orlova wine and dining editor [email protected] Charles Borden photographers [email protected] Serge Golovach, Evgeniya Ksenofontova, contributing editor Ruslan Sergeev Daniel Klein webmaster [email protected] Alexey Timokhin business writer James Blake [email protected] [email protected] accounting and legal services copy editor Vista Foreign Business Support Linda Lippner, 728-5000 ext. 5834 Trubnaya Str. 25/1, Moscow, (495) 933-7822

Circulation 40,000. Readers 80, 000. Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77-18639. 08.10.04 Editorial Address: Ozerkovskaya Embankment, 50 Bldg. 1. Office 515. 5th floor. 115054 Moscow, Russia Tel: (495)959-2332, (495) 959-2875, (495)959-2271, Fax: (495) 221-2677 www.passportmagazine.ru

06 2007

BOTTOM LINE

16 Schemes for evading taxes highlighted by Tax Service

By Tatyana Chebotareva

The Federal Tax Service has sent to all its local offices instructional guidelines describing "16 Typical Schemes for Evading Taxes." Judging by this document, inspectors are most concerned with evasion of value-added tax (VAT) and profit tax.

These guidelines were issued "for inter- intermediaries, thereby increasing prices and thus borrowed too much. The loan was nal use only", but Alinga Consulting was and the amount of VAT subject to reim- never repaid. able to obtain information about all 16 bursement, will be considered suspicious Scheme #10: Fictitious Leasing. schemes, captured from an Internal Docu- by the tax inspectors. For example, prices In another case described in the document of the Federal Tax Service. may be considered artificially inflated if ment, a company leased a combine, pay- Scheme #1: Fictitious Activity through the production cost of export goods was ing the lessor in advance. The lessor was Interdependent Entities. significantly increased as a result of pro- affiliated with the client and the advance The Tax Service will challenge organi- cessing raw materials and the commissions payment was not provided for in the agree- zations that conduct financial operations paid to these processors. ment. exclusively through groups of interdepen- Scheme #7: Internal Accounts Paid Us- Scheme #11: Replacing Wages with dent entities. ing Contributions to Charter Capital. "Medical Insurance." Scheme #2: Closed Systems for Circulat- The tax authorities will deny deductions The guidelines cite a case where a coming Goods and Money. of "internal" VAT between interdependent pany concluded an agreement for volun- In this situation inspectors will trace the companies. In this scheme a company pays tary medical insurance which included a supply chain up to the fourth level, uncov- its suppliers with funds received from its provision covering employee meals. ering fictitious contractual parties in the parent company in the form of contribu- Scheme #12: Using Civil Contracts in process. tions to charter capital. However, the par- Place of Labor Contracts. Scheme #3: Money Transfers Through ent company itself has received the money If the tax inspectors see that a civil con- "Gray" Firms. from its founders, who turned out to be tract is being used as a labor contract, it will The Tax Service encourages denying those very suppliers. The company thus be considered intentional tax evasion. export VAT refunds if the supply chain in- pays its suppliers with their own money, Scheme #13: Artificial Creation of Penal- cludes a "gray" (fly-by-night, suspicious) says the Tax Service, so the Tax Service en- ties through Contractual Obligations. firm that transfers money received from a courages denying reimbursement of VAT Knowingly creating unrealistic condi- buyer to the account of its foreign partner for such operations. tions for fulfilling a contract for the pur- and in the process does not pay VAT on the Scheme #8: Unjustified Use of Credits pose of reducing taxes by the amount of amount transferred. Similarly, extra atten- for the Disabled. financial sanctions is also considered to be tion is given if money is transferred under Inspectors will verify the conditions un- considered intentional tax evasion. contract with a "gray" firm and the money is der which methods were implemented for Scheme #14: Personnel Leasing. then returned via a private businessman. using disability credits for VAT payments. Documenting employees through orga- Scheme #4: Using Cash Registers for Scheme #9: Acquisition of Goods with nizations using preferential tax systems is Wholesale Transactions. Inflated Prices Using Borrowed Resourc- regarded by the tax authorities as tax eva- The Tax Service will actively repress at- es. sion. tempts to use the preferential Unified Tax The FNS document describes a case Scheme #15: Splitting a Business for the on Imputed Income for wholesale transac- where a logging company acquired equip- Purpose of Using the Unified Tax on Im- tions. ment on credit obtained from an off-shore puted Income. Scheme #5: Reorganization with Subse- firm. Having gathered information from the If two companies have practically identi- quent Liquidation. Internet, the logging company decided the cal names, are located at the same address, Scheme #6: Artificially Inflated Prices. value of the equipment was six times great- etc., then, says the Tax Service, this is evi- Export operations which use too many er than the market value of the equipment dence that the two firms are operating as

06 2007 BOTTOM LINE

one firm, split for the sole purpose of lower- pay tax on the transaction. Furthermore, ing taxes. according to the Constitutional Court, de- Scheme #16: Receipt of Losses by a Cred- nying VAT reimbursements on purchases it Organization due to Operations with a paid with borrowed resources is allowed "Problem" Bank. only if the tax authorities can prove that A company can expect numerous court the company had no intention to repay the battles and additional tax assessments if loan. the inspectors begin denying reimburse- Proving criminal intent for many of these ment of VAT or tax reductions on profits operations would be problematic. In fact, using these guidelines, since many of the the Tax Service only refers to circumstances "schemes" are actually legal and have been which, in the opinion of the High Court of used by businesses for some time. Arbitration, cannot in and of themselves at- Furthermore, in these guidelines the test to a company’s receipt of unlawful tax Tax Service urges automatically penalizing benefits leading to sanctions against the companies for certain operations, even if company. the tax for those operations was eventually paid into the budget. For example, companies periodically purchase products from their founders using resources received Tatyana Chebotareva is an Analyst from them, but the founders themselves with Alinga Consulting Group Antal International tops Moscow business poll British-based global executive recruitment firm Antal International has come out on top in an influential business poll carried out by the Moscow-based business information service RBC. Antal is ranked as the number one per- the candidate in a completely different ter- manent mid-level quality recruitment com- ritory from the one where the instruction pany within Moscow, based on the volume emanated. of placements made in 2006. It is amongst “Globalization of the workforce has there- the top five recruitment companies in Rus- fore become a giant game of hopscotch for sia, providing highly-qualified managers most of our clients. It’s certainly true of Rus- across a wide range of industry sectors, in- sian multi-nationals that are desperate for cluding financial services, technology and Western-educated and experienced mid- engineering. dle managers,” observes Elson. Commenting on the poll, Tremayne El- As a result, Antal International was one of son, managing partner, of Antal Interna- the first in the industry to create a suite of Tremayne Elson, tional Russia said, “There’s been a seismic methodologies and business processes to managing partner, Antal change in the way our clients are searching cope with clients’ challenges in recruiting International Russia and recruiting mid-level talent by casting in the complex global marketplace. their net much wider in order to capture an Demand for Antal’s services in Russia has ever decreasing pool of suitably qualified increased by over 80% over the past two talent. In practice, what this means is that years. The company is currently looking to the majority of our most recent client as- expand its operations by employing over signments have involved taking an instruc- 150 consultants over the next six months tion in one territory, sourcing potential tal- to cope with increasing demand for its ser- ent in several other territories and placing vices.

06 2007 EDITOR'S CHOICE selected by Natalia Shuvalova Pelageya Let’s come together There is hardly anyone in Russia who doesn’t know this young, impressive and very positive Si- berian girl. She is just 25 years old but she has had a 15-year successful musical career, with the accompanying fame of an established vocalist in Russia. Her vocal abilities recognize no limits. She easily masters any singing style of any world musical tradition. Her concerts are meditative compositions with dramatic performances, joined with ritual chants and folk songs. In everything she does, Pelageya exposes the rich variety of folk music, making it popular by integrat- ing it into modern genres. This time she performs together with Inna Jelannaya – another gem of the folk world. For some time she has been working outside Russia as a “world-music” per- former. Her international experiences have enriched her very Russian music; helping her to find her uniqueness and own style. As both singers specialize in traditional music, many see them as competitors. The girls decided to dispel this illusion. “We love one and the same thing... we feel like taking care of each other and not trying to compete,” the two performers exclaim.

“Double”, Pelageya & Inna Jelannaya 203-85-86 Gorky Theater June, 3, 19:00 Tverskoy Bulvar, 22 price: 2000 – 6000 rubles M. Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya

Congratulations! The international project “Europe-Russia-Europe” closes the anniversary program of “Museums of the World Congratulate the Tretyakov Gallery”. The idea of the exhibition came from the Tretyakov Gallery and the Euro Committee (the latter sponsored a big part of the project). The date of the event is very deliberate. In 2007 the EU celebrates its 50th anniversary. Also, in May, Russian leaders had another meeting with the leaders of the European Union. The art project is huge: about 50 museums from EU countries agreed to take part. The exposition now has more than 100 artworks. Among them are landscapes by Turner, Klimt, and Friedrich; portraits by Cra- nach, Bourdon; and paintings by Ribera, Titian, Picasso, Matisse. Such a variety of “guest” items provides an excellent opportunity to demonstrate that the art of every European country has its own peculiarity while yet being influenced by all the others. “If I were asked to give another name to the exhibition ‘Europe-Russia-Europe’, I would call it ‘Geography of Arts’. It is impossible to show the whole history of European Art in one exhibition - we just opened the first page of the atlas,” says the head curator of the Tretyakov Gallery, Ekaterina Selezneva. “Europe-Russia-Europe” 238-13-78 Tretyakov Gallery (new) Through 29 July Krymsky Val, 10 price: 250 rubles M. Oktyabrskaya, Park Kultury

Russian treat It is already a tradition for the National Ballet “Kostroma” to spend the summer in Moscow. Of course it is not a vacation. From June until September they give 100 performances, all at the Cosmos Hotel Concert Hall. The first Moscow season opened in 2005 and the show was attended by more than 50,000 people. The ballet troupe was formed in 1991 in Kostroma. From the very beginning they decided to dedicate themselves to real Russian culture (contrary to many cheap popular performances that are “sold” to tourists). Each show is a mix of traditional folk dances and modern ballet. It involves at least 50 dancers and more than 200 costumes. “We apply all the best there is, including modern technology for the special effects,” says Director Elena Tsarenko. And they truly do: the music is recorded by the Orchestra of National Instruments; the video projections, instead of stage props, create a three dimensional stage show; and the hand-embroidery on the costumes lends authenticity to the presentation. The program that they are bringing to Moscow this summer is called the “National Show of Rus- sia” and it promises to depict Russian history, as well as describing many of the fairy-tales and legends of Russia, taking the audience on a beautiful and fanciful journey. “National Show of Russia” 234-63-73 Cosmos Hotel Concert Hall June - September 19:30 Prospect Mira, 150 price: 1200 rubles M. VDNH

06 2007 EDITOR'S CHOICE Academic Celebrations November, 1757: The grandee, patron of the arts, curator of Moscow University, I. Shuvalov addressed the Senate of the Russian Impire proposing establishment of an Academy of Arts. Empress Elisabeth approved the idea, and Empress Catherine II finalized the Academy’s foundation. June 15, 2007: Moscow begins the celebration of the 250th Anniversary of the Russian Acad- emy of Arts. The grand opening ceremony will be in the halls of the Christ the Savior Cathedral. Among the guests expected are members of the Russian Federal and Moscow City govern- ments, representatives of the State Duma, the Moscow Patriarchy, representatives of UNESCO and the business elite, as well as famous artists. It does prove that for 250 years, art and the State have never really been separate. The exhibition itself will take place in the Moscow Ma- nezh. The exposition traces the history of the Academy from its beginnings until the pres- Russian Academy of Art – 250 years ent day. “The main idea is to show the Academy as the largest center embracing the various Moscow Manezh art institutions. It will illustrate its great role in education, research in art, architecture, design Manezhnaya Ploschad’, 1 and the theory of art,” state the organizers of the exhibition. Obviously, this suggests that M. Okhotny Ryad, Teatralnaya you will have an opportunity to see the best examples of Russian art such as Repin, Levitan, 698-16-60 Mayakovsky, and Surikov. Don’t miss the series of documentary photos from the Academy’s Opening June 15 archives; the first of them taken in the early 19th century.

Legend pays a visit Gary Moore is acknowledged as one of the finest musicians that the British Isles has ever produced. He was born in Belfast, Northern Ireland, and, like many others of his age, he became passionate about rock and roll by listening to recordings by Elvis Presley and the Beatles. See- ing live performances by Jimi Hendrix and John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers in his hometown in the mid-‘60’s, he was initiated into the world of Blues. But it was Peter Green, the lauded Blues guitar-player, who inspired Moore’s development as an artist. Soon Gary was hailed as a teen musical prodigy. There is hardly any musical genre that Moore has not touched upon during the almost 50 years of his career. After years of group work (in bands such as Thin Lizzy, Coli- seum II, Skid Row), he now prefers to perform solo. His most famous album “Still got the Blues” (1990) sold millions of copies and earned accolades from B.B. King, Albert Collins and other Blues greats. His name has become world-famous. His performing style is inimitable and easily recognizable, whether he is playing hard rock, romantic ballads, Metal or his beloved Blues. This is Moore's first visit to Moscow. Gary Moore 785-97-17 SC Lujniki June 21st 19:00 Luzhnetskaya nab., 24 price: 1000 – 15,000 rubles M. Sportivnaya

George Michael He has not been touring for the past 15 years, yet his concert hardly needs advertising. For the past 25 years he has sold over 85 million CDs, received two Grammy Awards, and been involved in numerous scandals (which only contributed to his popularity). The “British King of Music” comes to Moscow within his world-tour “LIVE-25”. The tour starts on May 12 in Portugal and goes through almost all of the European capitals. The play-list includes his well known “Careless Whisper”, “Freedom”, “Jesus to a Child”, “Faith” and many more. Moscow will see a new stadium version of the show. The stage will have three floors (as high as a 5 story building), as well as some unique winding screens. For the first time Olimpiski will offer special VIP seats (VIP-lux) where the lucky ones (i.e. who pay about $1,300 per ticket) will lounge in soft chairs watching George Michael close up. The show will last for 4 hours. The names of special guests (two world-known bands) are kept in secret! All the equipment will arrive to Olimpiski on 64 trucks and the installation will take 4 days! On the 9th of June, George Michael’s show opens the Wembley Stadium (London) after its reconstruction. Sport Complex Olimpiski 19:00 Olimpiski prospect, 16 July 4 M. Prospekt Mira price: 2000 – 50 000 r.

06 2007 SHOPPING NEWS

Debenhams opens flagship store in Moscow The classic British department Debenhams has come to Moscow. Debenhams first opened in 1919 on London's Oxford Street. It has become one of the world's biggest retail groups, with shops in Britain, Ireland, Switzerland and Bahrain and, since November 2006, in Rus- sia, on Moscow’s Krasnaya Presnya. The Debenhams brand was licensed for Russia by DBH, owned by Read Group, a successful Russian retailer known for its sportswear projects including Iguana. When you come to Debenhams you know you can relay on quality. The prices are ‘democratic’ and all new fashion trends are there. Debenhams will introduce eight new collec- tions of clothes and accessories each year. They work with famous fashion designers such as Julien Macdonald, Jasper Conran, Betty Jackson, Matthew Williamson and John Rocha. The newly-built three floors of retail space welcome visitors, and proclaims that real Lon- don shopping has come to Moscow.

Debenhams Krasnopresnensky Moscow, Krasnaya Presnya, 24 Tel. /Fax: (495) 739-4629

Mail Boxes Etc. opens its first Moscow store mer VGTRK (State Radio) headquarters, offers mailbox rental, document processing, digital photography, professional pack- ing, copy services, and is a re-seller of courier services from Pony Express, TNT and UPS. The 5,800 independently owned locations around the world provide convenient, value-added business services to consumers, "road warriors" and the small- office/home-office (SOHO) market. The Moscow pilot center is managed by Viktor Knyazev, and is open Mon through Friday 09:00-20:00. Aleksei Sukoparov, MBE Russia’s commercial director, is work- The San Diego-headquartered Mail Boxes Etc postal and busi- ing with Selezenev to select regional and unit franchisees. ness service company has opened its first store in Moscow. It Entrepreneur magazine's annual "Franchise 500," rated the is a pilot location for the master franchisee, a company set up UPS Store #5 among all franchise opportunities and #1 in the to develop Mail Boxes Etc in Russia and which by Alexander postal and business services category for the 17th consecu- Selezenev, General Director. tive year. The Ovchinnikovsky nab. store, across the street from the for- Tel: (495) 981-8500/981-8520

Rolls-Royce opens a new showroom Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Moscow has opened a new showroom on the centrally located Vozdvizhenka ulitsa close to the Lenin Library approaching Alexandrovskii Gardens. The unusual, ultramodern interior, reminiscent of a boutique draws the attention of visitors to the use of high technologies in manufacturing Rolls-Royce cars. The traditional British marque is now owned by BMW. The company makes two basic model: the Phantom and the drop-head Coupe. You don’t just buy a Rolls-Royce: you commission it like a piece of fine art or a luxury yacht. Every Rolls-Royce is hand-built and hand-finished to exceptional standards by the best technicians and craftspeople in the motor industry. It is this approach that makes every Rolls-Royce special. The convenient arrangement of the new showroom, with easy access to the central highways of the city, makes a visiting very convenient. Open 10:00-20:00 weekdays; 11:00-20:00 weekends and holidays.

06 2007 SPECIAL REPORT

Welcome to Singapore

By Eric Kraus

If the much-abused term “economic miracle” deserves to be applied to any country, it can be clearly attached to Singapore; a country which by all rational predictions should have collapsed into poverty and civil war 30 years ago or at best, ended as a minority ethnic province of Malaysia. Instead we find a distinctly first-world country – happy, peaceful, prosperous and uniquely well governed – displaying a single minded devotion to superb food and boundless shopping.

ingapore is now busily reinventing itself as Han Chinese, there is no discrimination against perous, life was safe and predictable, taxes were Sthe banking and technology hub of Asia. De- Indian, Malay or European minorities. low and one received excellent service for one’s spite the generally negative press coverage of its Singapore has received a considerable amount money. Indeed, one fund manager went so far as “authoritarian governance” I have yet to encoun- of bad press in the West for the “authoritarianism” to tell us that he had refused to apply for a tax ter any country where the general populace ap- of its regime. The press is censored, especially for exemption in what was a government-favored pears as genuinely pleased with its government. anything which might provoke religious, ethnic business sector as he felt that his taxes were al- Singapore is an anomaly by any standards. or class-based conflict, but also for the expres- ready low and were well spent. A small ethnically Chinese City-state sand- sion of virtually any anti-governmental views. The Singaporean model is not an obvious ex- wiched between two sometimes turbulent Public demonstrations are banned and political port commodity. Singapore is small and deeply Moslem countries; its early days were marked enemies have been sued into bankruptcy. While imbued with Confucian values and is graced by severe instability after it was ejected from Premier Mr. Lee banned religious proselytizing, with an efficient and almost preternaturally the Malaysian Federation due to Lee Kuan pornography and relentlessly prosecutes us- honest bureaucracy. Nevertheless, in its broad Yee’s refusal to embrace positive discrimina- ers of recreational pharmaceuticals. Smoking is outlines, this model has clear relevance else- tion of the indigenous Malay population (as permitted almost nowhere and cigarette packs where in the developing world. If nothing else, opposed to the rather more industrious ethnic bear truly gruesome pictures of smoke-induced as a demonstration that the particular form of Chinese). Under the “authoritarian” Lee Kuan diseases; even the sale of chewing gum and the liberal democracy that the West seeks to export Yee leadership, Singapore quickly reinvented public use of profanity are banned. is not necessarily the most conducive to human itself as an electronics manufacturing and Cultural life has been desperately bland, but happiness. freight shipment hub. At one time it led the recently we have been treated to the amusing Certainly, it can be argued that liberal democ- world in computer hard-disk production and spectacle of a rather prudish and censorious racy in developed countries either tends to be grew from a colonial backwater into a major government, faced with an urgent need to make rapidly corrupted by financial interests or to be regional player within a very short time. Singapore a less risk-averse place more prone overwhelmed by man’s inherent anarchic ten- Currently, given the loss of its competitive ad- to US-style, out of the box thinking. Now the dencies in the absence of strong institutional vantage in manufacturing to China in the area powers that be are actively promoting distinctly constraints. But in a nation such as Singapore, of precision electronics, Singapore is reinventing edgy theatre productions, and even some Bang- where authoritarian leadership has been rela- itself once again; this time as a hub for high val- kok-style nightlife… plus ca change! tively enlightened, society has advanced far ue-added financial services (in particular, asset In encounters with the always-polite Singa- more rapidly than would have been otherwise management, hedge funds, and private banking) poreans; from taxi drivers to journalists and top- expected and produced a happy and content with a substantial side-bet on biotechnology. level executives - when asked for their views on populace. In a region rife with ethnic violence, reli- their government, most replied with what they gious intolerance, and nationalism, Singapore thought us Westerners wished to hear - some Eric Kraus is adviser to the Nikitsky Russia/CIS Op- is an anomaly. Religion is taken to be a purely mildly self-deprecating remarks regarding Sin- portunities Fund. This article originally appeared personal matter, racist propaganda will get its gaporean “authoritarianism” as presented in the in the newsletter Truth & Beauty (... and Russian author promptly locked up, and under a strict foreign press. Yet when we dug just a bit further, Finance) meritocracy, foreigners can be employed at the everyone quickly confessed to being secretly ______highest levels in financial, governmental and delighted with their government, something we The opinions expressed in this article are those of the author quasi-governmental institutions, including the have encountered nowhere else on earth! and should not be taken to reflect the views of the publisher Central Bank. While the native population is 74% From cabbies to billionaires, people felt pros- or the advertising sponsors of this Special Report. This Special Report was co-ordinated and produced for Passport by Media Solutions, Russia. Project Manager: Alyona Khatyushina. Email: [email protected] 06 2007 SPECIAL REPORT

Singapore and Russia, an Encounter By H.E. Michael Tay, Ambassador of the Republic of Singapore

“Unlike their communist system, the Rus- Feel the sheer entrepreneurism and energy sians are not a people to be consigned to levels, a far cry from the rigidities of the So- the dustbin of history” – this was the end- viet system. Note the new policies to create note in the chapter on the Soviet Union hives of industry in regional SEZs within a penned by Singapore’s first Prime Minister country that has had a deep centralizing Lee Kuan Yew in his memoirs. instinct.

Look at the age of the new set of leaders in politics and business, grappling with the future of a thousand-year-old civilization

It was a prescient observation. It would More interesting to me is a similar dialec- have sounded incredulous to anyone study- tic between Singapore and Russia. We are ing the decay of the Soviet Union and the at opposite ends of the spectrum. Singa- turbulence of Russia in the 90s. Today, there pore is small; Russia is an empire. Singapore is still some of that disquiet about Russia’s is only 40 years old; Russians think in cen- future and potential, largely driven by a me- turies. Singapore has no natural resources; dia determined to interpret Russia in the Russia is resource-rich. Singapore is a young eyes of the liberal tradition. nation still working towards its identity; the But to those who have lived in Russia for Russian soul is profound. There is no natural the last 3-4 years, as I have, it is a new emer- impulse for the biggest country in the world gent Russia. The restoration and reinventing to find commonalities with a tiny city-state. of the Bolshoi Theatre is a nice metaphor. Yet, the past two to three years have seen It epitomizes a drive to resolve a creative a paradigm shift in Russia-Singapore rela- tension existing in a first-world civilization tions, cutting across a wide swathe. The struggling to rebuild its infrastructure. Singapore brand is now better known. Sin- Marx and Lenin knew that dialectical ma- gapore Airlines began flying into Moscow terialism would find fertile ground in Rus- in 2006. Swissotel Kra snaye Holmy, which sia, as Russia seems to breed extreme ideas opened in 2005, was a 5-star hotel chain and ideologies. Thesis and antithesis would managed from Singapore. Singapore’s lead to a new synthesis. Today, we are wit- Changi Airport International has become ness to a new play of this dialectical tension. a joint venture partner with Sheremetyevo

10 06 2007 SPECIAL REPORT Airport. The memoirs of Mr Lee Kuan Yew, Minister, Primorski Governor, Vardanian who transformed Singapore from a third (Troika Dialog), Deripaska (Basic Element), world country to first world status, has been Karachinsky (IBS), Petrov (Rolf), Vybornov translated into Russian. Major Singapore (Alrosa), Korkunov (Korkunov Chocolates), companies are making significant invest- Tchigirinski (Moscow Development Co), ments in Russia, including a joint venture Gupta (AMTEL-Vredestein), Semenov (Be- between Temasek Holdings and Troika laya Dacha), Dergunova (Microsoft), Tinkov Dialog to set up the Russia New Growth (Tinkoff), Kravchenko (Boeing Russia), Chu- Fund. From 2004 to 2006, Russians travel- pina (VTB), and other big real estate compa- ing to Singapore have grown by about 40% nies like Mirax Group and Eurasia. Minister annually. Trade has boomed, increasing by Mentor Lee Kuan Yew had a special session almost 45% in 2006. Singapore is working that also involved the top industrialists of with Russia to develop their Special Eco- China, India and Brazil. Most importantly, nomic Zones in Tomsk and Tatarstan. there have been tangible results. One milestone has been cultural. In Expect more next year. One of which will 2004, with the support of Russian and Sin- be a Singapore extravaganza event called gapore companies, I commissioned one of ‘Spotlight Singapore’. It will be a pastiche of the foremost modern Russian composers events touching on music and culture, busi- Vladimir Martynov to compose a sympho- ness and food (definitely featuring pepper ny. He called it SINGAPORE, and it had its crabs and chilli crabs, signature Singapore World Premiere on 5 October 2005 in the dishes that Russians seem to love!). Tchaikovsky Concert Hall and its Singapore 1930s’ Russian cabaret singer Vertinsky Premiere on 5 March this year. This extraor- sang about a ‘banana-lemon’ Singapore, The city never sleeps dinary work will live on in the musical an- ‘distant and foggy, where the oceans howl nals of both countries, and for Singapore, and rage’. To many Russians, Singapore we have imbibed the greatness of a musical is still far away and exotic. Equally, to Sin- civilization. gaporeans observing modern Russia, it is Another key initiative is the Russia-Sin- the great unknown, a ‘mystery wrapped gapore Business Forum. With the support in an enigma’. Lao Tze, an ancient Chinese of Minister of Economic Development and philosopher, said that ‘mystery and reality’ Trade Herman Gref and Troika Dialog, the emerge from ‘darkness’ and that ‘darkness’ second Forum held in Singapore on 6 March is ‘the beginning of all understanding’. This 2007 involved more than 500 businessmen, sense of mystery has seeded the growing with over 250 Russians participating (more ties between a huge country and a young than 4 times the number of Russians at the nation, and perhaps, it will also define our first Forum in March 2006). It was a veritable common destiny to befuddle those who “Who’s Who” from Russia: Tatarstan Prime think they know us.

Photos by Serge Golovach

06 2007 11 advertising

SPECIAL REPORT People and Words – Lee Kuan Yew, Herman Gref, Euleen Goh and others

By Cheryl-Ann Tan

When Herman Gref entered the auditorium, gapore are real estate and retail. “In the real Global issues like terrorism, avian flu, global- he graciously fell in step with his Singaporean estate sector, Singapore’s expertise in urban ization and major political changes were also host, Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew, Singa- planning, business and industrial park plan- brought up during the special session with Min- pore’s longest-serving leader, letting his pres- ning, housing and hotel development, logistics ister Gref and Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew. ence stay muted, but he becomes animated parks management and warehousing services, “Millions will die, it is like SARS,” Lee said of with gestures when given the chance to dis- is highly regarded... Singapore companies in the threat of avian flu. “It attacks your immune cuss matters with Lee off-the-record. As far as Russia are engaged in a variety of retail indus- system, and how do you combat that? I would

L-R: Herman Gref, Russian Minister of Economy & Trade, L-R: Russian Minister Herman Gref with Singapore's Minister for Trade Ms Euleen Goh, Chairman of IE Singapore and Ted Tan, Deputy CEO & Industry Lim Hng Kiang, Singapore's Minister of State for Trade & of IE Singapore Industry Lee Yi Shyan, and Euleen Goh, Chairman of IES he and Singaporeans are concerned, Lee is a tries, ranging from manufactured food to con- put that very high on the list of threats immedi- legend and surrounds himself with the same sumer electronics and IT products. Renowned ately facing us and I think the whole world. aura in whichever room he is in. After all, he for premium quality, high safety standards and “Terrorism will be with us for a long time. The is responsible for the “economic miracle” that state-of-the-art technology, our manufactur- problem is connected with fanaticism based on Singapore went through within the span of a ers produce high value products which satisfy religious beliefs. It’s not that they can conquer few decades. The forum was an important net- the demands of discerning consumers in Rus- you and change your life. But they can make working opportunity where countless business sia and all over the world,” said Goh. you feel very uncomfortable and insecure.” cards, handshakes, ideas exchanged and busi- On globalization, Gref mentioned that Rus- ness deals made between forum participants, The purpose of the forum was not only to at- sia will find its own way around it without fol- up to the highest levels. There was plenty to tract Singaporeans to Russia—there was also lowing the example of other nations, “The US is talk about and learn about each other—Sin- much attention given to attracting Russians isolating itself, closing certain sectors—this is a gapore-Russia trade was something that many to Singapore. There may be a relatively small bad example for Russia... it is difficult for me to have not put a great deal of belief in until re- number of Russian companies in Singapore, explain why we don’t have to follow.” cently. but some, who have made it to Singapore have seen tremendous growth. “The success of com- A couple of questions were asked about Singapore Minister for Trade and Industry Mr panies such as Lukoil and GOST Asia re-affirms political change brought about by historical Lim Hng Kiang said in his opening speech that the attractiveness of Singapore as a place to le- figures and leadership and whether they will bilateral ties were growing, thanks to strong verage on the growth of the region – another bring about negative changes to the business economic growth and economic reforms with- scope where both countries can work closer climate in Russia and Singapore. Both Gref and in Russia. Russia’s efforts in developing Special economically,” said Lim. Lee replied that they are not worried. Economic Zones will help diversify its econo- These indicators may be encouraging, but “No companies that have started working my. “In this area,” he said, “Singapore is glad to many challenges will face trade relations be- will stop,” said Gref, confidently. “You can’t share with Russia our experience in developing tween Russia and Singapore. As much as Rus- break these links... they are independent of the SEZs both locally and in other countries. We sia is pushing to diversity its economy, it will leader. You can break one but you can’t break hope this will help shorten Russia’s learning take awhile. “Russia’s economy is still reliant on them all. You belong to the world, not to Sin- curve and help you to quickly build up a strong traditional sectors,” said RusSEZ chief Mikhail V. gapore.” team of senior managers who under SEZs and Mishutsin. Chow Kok Fong, CEO of Changi Air- how to manage their implementation.’ ports International also pointed out that Russia Cheryl-Ann Tan is the Founder and Director of Euleen Goh, Chairman, IE Singapore, noted needs to work on making legal issues clearer The Singapore-Russia Connection, and contrib- in her welcome address that two of the big- and simplify administrative procedures. Lan- uted this article to Passport gest sectors that generated interest from Sin- guage barriers can also be discouraging. www.singapore-russia.org

14 06 2007 SPECIAL REPORT One of the main topics at the Russia-Singapore business forum concerned the establishment of Special Economic Zones (SEZs) in Russia, assisted by Singapore’s expertise. This was one of the interesting outcomes of last year’s forum. Singapore’s skilled management teams, an emphasis on efficiency and virtuous hard work, together with Russia’s vast natural and human resources are expected to create an inviting and friendly environment for businesses to flourish. Russia’s Special Economic Zones, with Singapore assistance By Cheryl Ann Tan

SEZs have been toyed with to some extent in of Zelenograd and Dubna where high-tech in- free port. Primorye, for example will benefit from Russia which has adopted some elements of Asi- dustries specializing in ITC tech, nanotechnol- its close proximity to the Asia Pacific and tax atic economies typical of China, Korea and Japan, ogy, laser technology, electronics, medical bio- breaks from customs and integrated port and in which one of the key tools was the use of SEZs technology, bio-information and biosensor transpot facilities. The idea is still in its infancy, to attract foreign investment. The decree regard- technologies will set up shop . In the Singapore- but it is gathering support. Herman Gref toured ing Special Economic Zones in the Russian Fed- assisted SEZ in Elabuga, car parts, vehicle man- the PSA port, one of Singapore’s maritime giants, eration was signed two years ago in July by Pres- ufacturing and petro-chemical industries will during his visit. ident Putin. Through cost reduction, tax breaks thrive. The prospects are extremely encouraging, but and faster investment returns for businesses, re- Tourist-Recreational SEZs such as those in setting up and running the SEZs will not be with- duced administrative barriers and improved in- Krasnodar, Kaliningrad, Stavropol, Irktusk, the Re- out difficulties—as shown by the Singapore ex-

Impressive turnout at Russia Singapore Business Forum attracted movers and shakers from Singapore’s Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew Russia and Asian countries in unique and frank exchange of views frastructure within these zones, they are poised publics of Altai, Buryatia and Tartarstan were cre- perience in the 90’s with Suzhou Industrial Park, to attract businesses and investors to Russia. ated to stimulate and develop the effective use a brainchild of MM Lee, that has been thought of The Federal Agency for Management of Spe- of recreational resources such as resorts, hotels, as a white elephant that incurred huge losses. cial Economic Zones of Russia (RusSEZ) signed a medical and health services facilities, business Hopefully, Singapore has gained some valuable Memorandum of Understanding with the Minis- conferencing facilities and more. Businesses op- (albeit very expensive) lessons about planning try of Trade and Industry of Singapore in August erating in a Tourist-Recreational SEZ will benefit and managing SEZs overseas. Many challeng- of last year. In the same spirit of economic coop- from a decreased profit tax rate, exemption from es that will face the SEZ prospects in Russia are eration, RusSEZ, together with the Foundation property and ground taxes for five years, and the similar to those that others who are already at- for Assistance to Small Innovative Enterprises, use of mineral resources located in the SEZ for tempting to start up business in Russia—cor- have also signed a Protocol of Intentions earlier use in medical purposes. ruption, red tape, the reliance on traditional sec- this year, to establish a Russian business incuba- The Prime Minister of Tartarstan, Roustam tors and as MM Lee pointed out, the very simple tor in Singapore. It is the first to be established Minnikhanov, gave a colorful presentation of the problems of distance and language barriers will outside of Russia. Mikhail V. Mishustin, Chief of republic as a tourist and recreational zone. While very well be the largest obstacles. However, as RusSEZ, spoke at the forum, highlighting the po- in Singapore, the Tatar delegation also toured a Ambassador Michael Tay said to a gathering of tentially lucrative SEZs for Singapore businesses housing estate developed by Singapore’s Hous- businessmen some months ago, Singapore busi- to invest in. ing Development Board (HDB). Together, they are nesses have thrived in many countries where Altogether, six SEZs scattered throughout Rus- exploring possible solutions to apply the HDB’s they faced similar problems of corruption and sia were created and Singapore will help set up mortgage plans to the region. Minister Mentor cultural differences, and dealing with Russia two of them: in Tomsk and Elabuga, Tatarstan. Lee Kuan Yew also commended Tartarstan’s su should be no different. There are four types of zones: Technical and Inno- ccess in developing the Alabuga SEZ—the result vative Zones, Tourist and Recreational Zones, In- of cooperation between Russia and Singapore. Cheryl-Ann Tan is the Founder and Director of the dustrial Production Zones and Port-type Zones. Port-type SEZs will probably find very positive Singapore-Russia Connection, and contributed Technical and Innovative Zones were created results in working with Singapore— once a tiny this article to Passport in St. Petersburg, Tomsk and the Moscow regions fishing-village that flourished with the help of its www.singapore-russia.org

06 2007 15 SPECIAL REPORT

Getting there There’s only one way from Moscow to Singapore – fly.

Only two airlines worth mentioning Despite the plethora of flights Thai don’t offer routes from Moscow to Sin- Airways seems to rise above them all. Al- gapore even if, like Lufthansa and Brit- though it is marginally more expensive www.singaporeair.com ish Airways, they are the long way round than some others, it is considerably more www.thaiair.com via their European hubs and expensive cost effective than the European connec- www.emirates.com to boot. The ones who don’t fly you to tions; it is favored by frequent travelers www.qatarairways.com Singapore this summer are Aeroflot and, between Moscow and Singapore. www.transaero.com surprisingly, the five stars rated Malay- Search Sites sian Airlines who have not entered the The reason? www.expedia.com Russian market yet. It’s long haul flight to Bangkok with www.farecompare.com Transaero is the only airline flying di- its renowned service lets travelers get rect and then only once a week. a good overnight rest and a quick short Frequent flyers have to take their pick haul connection to Singapore gets them between Emirates, Qatar Airways, Sin- into the city refreshed and ready for busi- gapore International Airlines and Thai ness. Airways all priced in a range 28,000 to “The routes via the Gulf make for a very 30,000 rubles for a round trip economy broken journey,” said one Singaporean. class ticket. “The flights via Dubai for example, six Options that flash up on the web flight hours on both legs, and constantly being search sites include KLM, British Airways offered food do not let you get a proper and Lufthansa all with tickets about dou- rest. With Thai, I get a good sleep on the ble the price, which is understandable as flight to Bangkok.” they are taking you west before bringing Then it’s a pleasant transit through you east and south. South East Asia’s most modern airport, Which airline you choose very much Suvarnabhumi at Bangkok and a con- depends on your preferences, or possibly venient short haul leg to Singapore’s your frequent flyer club membership! Changi. If you fancy a midnight shopping spree Thai Airways makes much of its mod- in the cavernous Dubai Duty Free on your ern fleet of Boeing 777-200ER, Airbus way to Singapore then both Singapore 340-500’s and the world’s longest range International Airlines and Emirates transit aircraft, the Airbus 340-600. the Middle East’s fastest growing airport. Thai Airways offers Royal First, Royal Just as exotic is a stopover in Doha, Silk and Economy Class. All three classes home base of the highly rated Qatar offer commodious seating with a wide Airways. The five hour stopover may be range of entertainment programs for just a bit too long for most travelers from those who prefer not to sleep. The gra- Moscow however. An evening arrival cious in-flight service reeks of renowned time of 19.05 is not conducive to sights- Thai hospitality with choices of menu in seeing, even if you could get out of the all classes. airport. But whatever airline you end up fly- All these flights and those of Thai Air- ing, vibrant Singapore with its emerging ways originate in Domodedova, Mos- role as a world financial hub, where Asia’s cow’s most modern airport, conveniently movers and shakers rub shoulders and linked by express train from the centre of an unrivalled shopping and dining tour- Moscow. ist destination, awaits you.

16 06 2007

SPECIAL REPORT

Main dining area Pan Pacific Hotel Facade

Where to Stay

ingapore offers a wide variety of ac- to be the accommodation of choice with nade - Theatres on the Bay. The hotel is also commodation types to suit all bud- guests by providing personalized care. connected to Millenia Walk and Suntec City Sgets and preferences. They range Pan Pacific Singapore, with its proximity shopping complexes from backpacker, budget and youth hos- to the Central Business District, is located tels with prices under S$ 50 a night to bou- in the heart of Marina Bay, a shopping 775 well-appointed rooms and suites fea- tique and five-star hotels where you can haven of over 500 shops and restaurants ture full-length glass windows with views expect to pay S $ 300 a night (S$1 equals near the Singapore River. The hotel offers of Singapore’s city skyline or the Marina around 70 cents, US). direct access to the Singapore Interna- Bay harbour. Appointed in contemporary tional Convention and Exhibition Centre colours, the spacious rooms are furnished Most hotels come with standard facilities via a sky bridge. In fact, Pan Pacific Singa- with an ample desk and lamp, and an ergo- like International Direct Dial (IDD) phones, pore is within walking distance of many nomic Herman Miller task chair.

internet and cable, room service, mini bars, of Singapore’s historic landmarks, such Hotels Pacific courtesyPhotos of Pan data ports for modem, no-smoking rooms as the Padang, stage to some of the most Elite travelers will enjoy the plush comfort or floors, and business and fitness centers significant national events, the Cenotaph of the Pacific Club rooms and suites with furnished with the latest equipment. and the commemorative landing site of Sir round-the-clock butler service and exclu- Stamford Raffles - founder of modern Sin- sive lounge access. Guests who book ac- In the upper price brackets you can find not gapore. commodation on the Executive Business only the colonial splendor of the legendary Floors will enjoy access to the Executive Raffles Hotel but also the ultra-modern Pan Pan Pacific Singapore is 20 minutes from Business Centre on level 22 where buffet Pacific Singapore, which was recognized as the Singapore Expo and Singapore’s Chan- breakfast, afternoon canapés and evening “Asia’s Leading Business Hotel” in the 13th gi Airport. It is also close to Singapore’s cocktails are served. Internet connectivity Annual World Travel Awards 2006. The 20- historic, cultural and entertainment areas, is complimentary and the Business Con- year old hotel will soon undergo a SGD$14 such as CHIJMES, the Boat Quay, Clarke cierge is available round-the-clock to fa- million refurbishment exercise and aims Quay, Robertson Walk and the new Espla- cilitate special requests.

18 06 2007 advertising SPECIAL REPORT

More information - on the Web www.mymumscuisine.com www.apexpal.com www.bakerzin.com www.sakaesushi.com.sg www.cavanachicken.com www.gogofranks.com www.visitsingapore.com www.ichibanboshi.com.sg www.ichiban.ru

Food industry has eyes on Russia Take home My Mum’s Cuisine has a manufacturing f&b chains seek plant that produces an array of sauces, soups, desserts and ready meals, using the partners, franchisees same traditional recipes as used in the restaurant chain, with the finest and freshest Singaporeans are passionate about food and hotel guests. Our diners are very afflu- ingredients, and state-of-the-art produc- and eating. Look around and the proof is ent globe-trotting figures giving us a good tion technology. With these sauces, con- everywhere! Almost in every corner of the grasp of the demand and needs of such sumers can be rest assured that the food island, you will find an endless variety of clients, which will stand us in good stead quality is of the finest and the dishes will food, served hot or cold, at any hour of the in Russia, giving us the edge in providing be consistent in terms of taste. day or night! In this cosmopolitan and mul- dining experiences that Russians will rave Pass by one of their restaurants before fly- ticultural city, you can expect nothing less about.” ing home and buy sauces, desserts, and than a melange of flavours from around the ”I am looking out for franchise partners ready meals, so you can enjoy the flavour globe. It’s not just East-meets-West when it to set up My Mum’s Cuisine in Russia,” she of Singapore. comes to feasting in Singapore – it is a tasty said. tale about a country’s unique cultural tap- Apex-Pal, the publicly listed diversified estry woven in with its distinct influences to restaurant and catering company wants to capture the essence of Singapore’s multicul- bring its Sakae Sushi, conveyor belt brand to tural heritage. Moscow. The company also owns Sho-U fine Now a fast growing group of hospitality dining contemporary Japanese restaurant, chains are eager to bring their particular Crepes and Cream, Nouvelle Events and brand of cuisine and service to Russia, fol- Uma Uma Men which specializes in soba, ra- lowing the innovative Ichiban Boshi, which men and udon. brought its Singapore take on Japanese cui- CEO Douglas Foo says, “Everyone knows sine to Moscow three years ago. Russia has evolved tremendously in the A restaurant keen to establish a presence in past decade. More and more companies are Russia is My Mum’s Cuisine, the stylish chain making their way into Russia. The popularity serving authentic Singapore cuisine based for Japanese cuisine has grown increasingly on recipes created by the founders mum us- during the past few years. Thus, this is the ing elements of Chinese, Malay and Indian right time for us to enter this market, Sakae dishes. Diana Cheng, the Founder and Man- Sushi with our innovative menu and creative aging Director, was excited by the prospect design, always delivering fresh and good after meeting restaurateurs in Moscow and quality products at reasonable prices.” St Petersburg. “Russians are adventurous in Together with Executive Director, Lilian Plans for my Mum’s Cuisine branches in trying new cuisines because of their global Foo, they are now searching a location. Russia include a dedicated corner to sell exposure. This creates an opportunity for “We are contributing our knowledge and the merchandise in retail packs. For Mus- us,” she said in interview with Passport. extensive experience of Japanese cuisine covites, that will solve the problem of hard “My Mum’s Cuisine has recently opened and restaurant set-up; we have found a part- to find ingredients, not to mention un- in Kuala Lumpur’s Starhill Gallery, the pres- ner who brings on board the local territorial usual cooking techniques for those more tigious shopping mall linked to the Ritz knowledge to help in pricing of products used to borscht and cutlets. Carlton Hotel. We service both shoppers and services as well as a location of retail

20 06 2007 SPECIAL REPORT

«Must Try» local favorites Where do we start? Singapore has a large range of local delectable delights to offer. Singapore food is a tasty tale about the country’s unique cultural tapestry, and the way individual strands have woven into others, and changed hue in the process. Food preparations that came to shops. It would require much more time if out 13 years ago as Carona chicken, now Singapore from India, China and other one were to do it alone.” called Cavana chicken. For Singaporeans countries in the region may still bear the What customers can expect when Sakae you can forget KFC, the only chicken fast original names - but they are indelibly Sushi opens its doors is the Japanese “Kai- food that wows them is Cavana, where transformed by being ‘Singaporeanised’. tan” experience. In the words of Lilian Foo, there are 18 different varieties of chicken Our list of local food is endless, but if we “We are committed to offering maximum – grilled, stewed.roasted and barbecued. must narrow down the list, here are the value, be it in terms of variety and quality of “Eating chicken will never be the same af- “Must Trys” which you should find time to food, or dining experience. As a brand that is ter you have experienced the Cavana way”, sample while in town: dedicated to healthy eating solutions, Sakae said Jean Lee, Managing Director of Carona 1. Chilli Crab – allegedly created by a Sushi offers its customers only the freshest Holdings. Chinese food-stall hawker in 1956 is the ingredients. Besides innovating our menu, The company has outlets in Singapore, In- unofficial national dish of Singapore and we have a unique interactive ordering sys- donesia and the Philippines. served everywhere but especially in the tem and a fully automated sushi conveyor Having conquered chicken, Corona turned many sea front restaurants. belt that provides an entirely modern and to frankfurters and has recently introduced refreshing dining experience.” GoGo sausages. Their freshly made halal- Since its inception in 1997, Sakae Sushi’s certified chicken sausages cater to contem- experience of eating sushi and sashimi, porary lifestyles and palates. At GoGo, you freshly made and served to customers via a can taste sausages that carry home-grown conveyor belt has made Sakae Sushi one of flavours like Cheezy Chicken, Red Roast, Sa- the most loved Japanese restaurants in Asia. tay, Black Pepper, Tandoori, Chilli Chicken Today, with almost 60 outlets, it is spread and Mushroom. Only at GoGo will you find across China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, fun, bite-sized sausage balls with cheese fill- Thailand, the Philippines and the USA. ings. GoGo already has outlets in Singapore The Pacific United Holdings which owns and Malaysia. Bakerzin, is seeking a franchise partner in If all these plans come to fruition, then 2. Hainanese Chicken Rice – chicken Russia. This chain of bakery cafes started as Russian residents can expect a new dimen- boiled in a ‘master stock’ served with fla- a small patisserie in 1998 supplying mainly sion to their dining habits. vourful rice cooked in a chicken stock bread and pastries to restaurants and hotels. Can’t wait? 3. Laksa - a spicy noodle soup merging of They have since evolved into a casual dining Visit Singapore this July for a journey Chinese and Malay café serving a wide range of premium qual- around the delicious and tempting tastes of 4. Satay – chunks of bite-sized meat ity desserts, cakes, pastries and bread, as Singaporean cuisine. The annual Singapore grilled on bamboo skewers served with well as a delectable a-la-carte savoury menu Food Festival is back for the 14th year to a spicy sauce and beverages. The café’s contemporary en- charm your taste buds with its unique blend 5. Fish Head Curry – traditionally the head vironment with a warm and friendly ambi- of savory local food. From Laksa, Hainanese of a red snapper, semi stewed in thick ence also serves as an ideal meeting place Chicken Rice to the Chili Crab, sample the curry served with rice or bread for trendy and sophisticated customers. ten must-try local favorites of Singapore for 6. Bak Kut The - meaty pork ribs or chick- Bakerzin has steadily grown to more than the best experience of Singapore food and en pieces in a complex broth of herbs 17 outlets in Singapore, Indonesia, Malay- culture. (See Box). and spices sia, China and the USA. Their international Tourists get an exclusive invitation to sam- 7. Roti Prata – pancakes usually served expansion strategy is through franchising. ple Singapore’s signature dish - the Singa- with curry Eager pastry buffs are waiting for the Sin- pore Chili Crab. In conjunction with the Sin- 8. Rojak – eclectic fruit and vegetable gapore chain to start giving the overpriced gapore Food Festival, tourists get a voucher salad mix European bread and pastry cafes a run for on arrival to savor Singapore Chili Crab from 9. Char Kway Teow – fried flat rice noodles their money. the many seafood restaurants and F&B es- based dish Yet another company seeking franchise tablishments island-wide and at Changi 10. Fried Carrot Cake (also known as “Chai partners in Russia for its two fast food International Airport. The promotion runs Tow Kueh”) - a sweet spice cake with grated

brands is Carona holdings, which started 29th June through 31st July 2007. carrot mixed into the batter. courtesyPhotos of IE Singapore

06 2007 21 SPECIAL REPORT

Singapore Airlines grows far beyond its island base By Jayaraj Shanmugam, Singapore Airlines

Singapore Airlines launched in March 2006 three weekly flights between Moscow and Singapore, via Dubai. This has provided the Moscow market an opportunity to travel on one of the world’s leading airlines.

e have a young and efficient fleet, an B757 and the A310-200. We are also the first ever-expanding in-flight entertainment sys- Weducated staff attuned to quality, and a airline in the world to operate an internation- tem, offers customers a wide range of en- top-ranked travel gateway; Singapore’s Chan- al commercial flight across the Pacific Ocean tertainment options. Passengers can choose gi Airport which is at the center of our exten- with the 747-400 Megatop. from a variety of movies, TV programs, music sive route network. Our history, our country, In the 1990’s, Singapore Airlines revolution- CDs and channels. There is also an extensive and our customers all contribute to our suc- ized in-flight communications and entertain- selection of video games and interactive ap- cess and our future. ment through the KrisFone - the first global plications including Berlitz Word Traveler, a sky telephone service - and it unique KrisWorld fully interactive learning program. The Creation of Singapore Airlines offerings. At the same time, we sought to fur- Singapore Airlines became a full member From a single plane to an internationally re- ther improve our unparalleled fleet, placing of the global Star Alliance in 2000 and with spected brand, almost 60 years of innovation a US$10.3-billion order for twenty-two B747- it came “seamless” worldwide air travel. With and service has propelled the growth of Sin- 400s and thirty A340-300s in 1994, a US$12.7- an extensive network of partner airlines; con- gapore Airlines to become one of the world’s billion order for seventy-seven B777s in 1995, necting flights, frequent flyer points, and leading carriers. We began in 1947 with three and a US$2.2-billion order for ten A340-500s baggage clearance are now a breeze. flights per week, and today our route network in 1998. The company was also the first to es- A Future of Firsts and advanced fleet spans 98 destinations in tablish a comprehensive panel of world-re- Singapore Airlines will once again make 40 countries. nowned chefs, the International Culinary Pan- aviation history when the airline will become From the beginning, Singapore Airlines el, in developing in-flight meals in 1998. the first to operate the world’s largest aircraft, learned that investing in the future means In 2000, the Singapore Airlines placed nine- the Airbus A380. having the safest, newest, most advanced, teen A380s on firm order and a US$4 billion The future promises to bring more firsts and fuel-efficient planes in the skies. The av- order for twenty more B777-200s in 2001. In like these, as we at Singapore Airlines, con- erage age of our passenger fleet is about 6 2004, Singapore Airlines was the first to oper- tinually strive to drive quality service through years. ate the world’s longest non-stop commercial innovation. From First Flight to Soaring Height flight between Singapore and Los Angeles on Office in Moscow The history of Singapore Airlines dates back the A340-500, and then surpassed the record We have recently moved our sales and tick- to 1 May 1947, when a Malayan Airways Limit- (in terms of distance) later that year with non- eting office in Moscow to the Renaissance Ho- ed Airspeed Consul took off from Singapore’s stop service to New York (Newark) in June. tel at 18/1, Olimpiski Prospect to better Kallang Airport on the first of three sched- The A380, the world’s largest commercial serve our customers. uled flights a week to Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh and plane will soon enter service with Singapore Do come visit us. Penang. The original airline later split into the Airlines, marking another world’s first. Singapore Airlines and Malaysian Airlines Sys- The Highest Service Today tem. Singapore Airlines today is built solidly on The Singapore Girl is Born our history, while providing the best of in- In 1968, the sarong kebaya uniform de- flight service highlighted by our designer signed by French couturier Pierre Balmain bone china flatware and the Bulgari cologne was introduced and the internationally rec- for First Class passengers and our advanced ognized image of the Singapore Girl made its fleet of aircraft serviced by our motivated debut. employees. A Reputation for In-flight Firsts Our in-flight service is of the highest or- Years ago, Singapore Airlines was the first der. The Singapore Airlines World Gour- to offer free drinks and complimentary head- met Cuisine boasts a selection of exclu- sets. More recently, we pioneered in-flight sive and tantalising signature dishes, telecommunications services and unparal- specially designed by a panel of nine leled in-flight luxury. Soon, we will be the first internationally renowned chefs, to put the world’s largest plane into service. and a wine list selected by three The 1980’s brought a number of firsts. The of the world’s most discerning Singapore Airlines fleet continued to grow in wine consultants. impressive and historic ways. It flew the first KrisWorld, Singapore Air- A300 Superbus, the B747-300 Big Top, the lines’ award-winning and

22 06 2007

SPECIAL REPORT

Singapore is perfect for relaxing

Dana Lipkow, a busy housewife and mother discovered several places in the "lion city" where she and her husband could enjoy themselves.

"Regeneration not only has to do with disconnecting" completely alone in the park. But we did not need says the Berliner. “The whole environment has to to be afraid of getting lost because all paths were be right in order to have relaxing holidays.” For her clearly marked.” Singapore fulfilled most of it: a high standard of hotels, a wide choice of good food, cleanliness and Dana Lipkow found the East Coast Park much last but not least the excellent service. “This starts livlier, where young people and families meet at when taking a taxi. You don’t have to be afraid of the weekends. “You can find barbecues and picnic being ripped off because the drivers speak good parties, people skating, jogging and sunbathing.” English and treat every passenger politely. You can also have an interesting conversation with them The most fascinating for her was the Seafood Centre and they can give useful suggestions.” She fondly where all delicious food you can think of from the remembers the driver who recommended her the sea was on offer. “A whole army of staff makes sure food market for lunch. “Everything tasted delicious, that all the people are served properly.” was reasonably priced and one felt to be a part of the city and really belong to the place.” When being asked for her favourite place for a romantic dinner the seafood fan only had one Another insider tip was the MacRitchie Reservoir. It’s answer: “The Cliff at our Hotel Sentosa Resort a 100 hectare area for relaxing around a reservoir &Spa. With its open kitchen and the modern yet right in the heart of the peninsular state. It was remarkably cosy interior design.” There, they only meant to be a short trip, however in the end convinced her to eat oysters. “Before I did not the couple spent half a day there. “It was a terrific like oysters, but the chef explained to me all the experience! It was fantastic to walk through the seafood from all over the world that was on offer, rainforest and to discover so many different species and the different ways of preparing it. It sounded of animals. The friendly monkeys, butterflies and very tasty.” turtles in the lake. But what impressed us most were the suspension bridges which were strung After these incredible holidays she and her husband 20 meters above ground between the giant are now thinking about moving to Singapore for trees. Apart from a few people jogging we were one or two years.

24 06 2007 BUSINESS FEATURES Students show their skills in advertising

By Natalia Shuvalova

Tomorrow’s advertising practitioners from around Russia showcased their talent during the last week of April at the Ninth International Student Advertising Festival in Moscow. When the country was making the transition from the Soviet regime to democracy, advertising was new to Russians. The first TV commercials, posters and newspaper advertisements were deplorable. The Rector of the Moscow University of Humanitarian Sciences (the biggest non-State University in Russia), Mr. Igor M. Ilyinsky, realized that Russia would have the same demand for proficiency in advertising as the West; and very soon. “It was very logical to me. Where the market goes, advertising follows. Obviously, advertising could not stay at such an unprofessional level for a long time. High demand for this type MosGU Rector Leading advertising of education in the West gave me a clear picture of the future in Russia”, he says. Dr. Igor M. Ilyinsky luminary Vladimir Philippov Yet, it required a great deal of determination to continue. Most of the people in the industry at that time were so overworked meeting the demands of multinational clients such as Proctor & Gamble, Nestle and Unilever that they did not have the time or money to invest in educating their creative staff. The University sent about 800 letters to adverting agencies and other related institutions but did not receive a single reply. The other challenges they was the absence of skilled and experienced professionals, and basic text books in the field. Finally, they got support from RARA (the Russian Association of Advertising Agencies). Its directors: Vladimir Philippov, Vladimir Estafiev and Sergei Koptev, took an active part in the development of the first Russian curriculum of advertising, which began as non-degree courses under the name of High School of Advertising at the Univer- sity. Today the Faculty of Advertising, which is headed by Dean Alexander D. Borodai, 1,560 L-R: Michael Loskutov, Vladimir Evstafyev, Dr. Igor Ilyinsky students. The leading industry practitioners from the Russian branches of multinational agencies such as McCann Erickson, Grey Worldwide, BBDO and Young & Rubicam fall over themselves to hold master classes and meet the students, many of whom are recruited. Over 80 institutions from around Russia, including Krasnodar, Omsk, Tambov, Orenburg, Chelyabinsk and Novosibirsk, competed. Entries were also received from students in Bul- garia, Vietnam, China, Israel, Ukraine, Belorussia, Georgia and Latvia. The three-day event was dominated by the opening and closing ceremonies and the presentation of certificates and awards by the winning students of the competition.

L-R: Dean Alexander Borodai and guest

Eager students listen to a master class

Entertainment by students was a part of the open- Students looks at entries in the Festival gallery ing and closing ceremonies

06 2007 25 BUSINESS PROFILE

David Whitehouse, Savant

Chaos or Design, off the rack or bespoke?

By James Blake

"There are things you can plan for in life, things which can be considered, or designed if you like, and then there are other things that just happen". David Whitehouse

David Whitehouse came to Russia back in agenda, but also that of most industry as 1993 on a 300day visit, met the love of his well. Production facilities of all types are life, and has remained in eastern Europe being newly built or upgraded. Steel works ever since. Architectural planning and de- are being overhauled, retail centers are be- sign have become the hallmarks of his ca- ing built, and industries such as breweries, reer, culminating, on a professional level car part and hotels are planned or in the at least, in the creation of Savant Interna- process of construction. This development tional; one of the most respected construc- is not being centrally planned. Needs are tion and design consultancies operating in being addressed on a site-specific basis. Russia. Private companies, and even local govern- ments, are concerned about costs, return A chat with David reveals he knows an on investment, and profitability. Unlike in awful lot about construction and design, a previous era where ‘one size fitted all’, particularly managing the costs associated all development is tailored to the relevant with his projects. His experience range project's requirements. from football stadiums in Ukraine, sunflower processing plants in Voronezh, to ceram- David understands that this change of ics factories in Chelyabinsk. And then there culture can be represented in many ways, are the retail facilities, hotel developments noting that in the Soviet era to visit the and corporate developments of all shapes circus in one city was essentially to see a and sizes. The company, Savant Interna- replica of the Moscow circus. The culture tional, of which he is a principal, was set up was about getting one thing which worked specifically to cater to the need for effec- – sometimes only moderately well – in one tive design and construction consultancy location, and replicating that exact thing services across Russia. And now Savant In- elsewhere. Industrial plants, hotels, facto- ternational has expanded with a portfolio ries, housing, and public buildings all came of extensive projects across Europe and the from the same mold. But any given site has CIS. its own design needs, which stem from its own particular location, the specific people Russian property development has been who will use the facility, and the operation- under-invested in for nearly a generation al circumstances in which it exists. and almost anywhere one looks there are It is the difference between bespoke tai- manufacturing, housing, retail, and trans- loring and off the rack. Sometimes the lat- port facilities which could do with upgrad- ter does the job nicely, but the former will ing and modernization – if not complete always do it better though perhaps more replacement. And now this is changing. expensively. This is where a design and The Russian economic boom from the construction consultancy steps in, a com- early years of this century is driving an in- pany which marries form, function, design frastructure – and facility-construction and construction, while operating within boom like few others. Russian investment time parameters and costs. The demand in its own industry and infrastructure is not for such specific services in Russia today is only a central part of the Government's huge.

26 06 2007 BUSINESS PROFILE

One of Savant’s recent flagship projects DHL, amongst a range of logistics op- But logistics centers aren’t all that Savant was the 210,000 square meter Pushkino erators, has taken long term rights at the creates. The Firm has also recently been Logistics Park, on the Yaroslavskoe Shosse, Pushkino facility, and as Russia’s consumer appointed to oversee the design and con- north east of Moscow. In a city which is cry- boom really kicks in, it is local Russian com- struction of CBC Park Huaming, China’s ing out for a Class A logistics facility, this is a panies along with the local divisions of in- largest ever investment project in Russia. good example of the benefits of attention ternational companies who are driving the This will see Savant wondering the con- to detail and design that Savant can bring boom in rents and the construction of new struction of a trade and social exchange to a project. facilities. The further east one goes in Rus- center which includes offices and confer- “The key to any logistics facility is its sia, the more pressing is the need, so the ence facilities, entertainment venues and design and the way it works: the grid situ- company is looking into several projects an apartment hotel – all set in a traditional ations and office locations and layout. Oth- in Siberia, in the Tomsk and Novosibirsk Chinese garden. The company is also con- erwise, what you have at the end of the day regions. sidering high-rise projects in St. Petersburg is a big shed,” he says. and some retail developments. The attention to detail in making sure the Changes in administration or regulatory project is something more than a big shed requirements, difficulties in finding good All of this should mean that David will is staggering. There are load bearing ca- contractors who can work to the standard continue to be a busy man into the fore- pacities, column grids and ceiling heights required, and are able to complete tasks seeable future. But he gives the impres- to think about, as you would expect, not to on time and in any industry weather have sion he likes being busy, and this is one of mention the layout of the loading bays and the potential to delay completation dates, the things which attracts him to Moscow. parking. But it goes well beyond the obvi- which is always a worry for someone with “There’s always something happening here, ous to working out the security and the more than half an eye on the costs of a con- something going on, and it has an unpre- access for the site, storage areas, lighting struction project. Then, even when a good dictability and sense of chaos which has its systems, sprinklers and fire alarms, office team is put together, there is always a risk attraction, with every day being different”, locations, anti-dust flooring and, in the case that an other firm will entice them away to he says, providing some sort of insight into of Pushkino, a rail connection. It all takes a some other project. Construction can be moments, which one assumes, just hap- tremendous amount of planning, mulling a dog-eat-dog in any industry. Local work pened to him back in October 1993. For a over what goes best with what and where. customs, health and safety standards, and man who likes planning design, and careful But it pays off, insofar as the end result is simple communication can often bemuse consideration of costs, he sometimes likes rated ‘the best designed and most modern and confuse international project manag- things that just happen. logistics park in Russia.’ ers, if they are not careful.

06 2007 27 ART

A new private Art Museum opens in Moscow

By Natalia Shuvalova

He’s young. He’s rich. He is passionate about everything he does. Now Moscow can benefit from his immediate passion – which is art! He is Igor Markin, the man who has opened the first private Museum of Contemporary Art in Moscow.

He is not shy to compare himself with Pavel Having money is a must in this field; es- choose, think it over, wait…not to mention Tretyakov, the founder of the Tretyakov pecially now that many whole Russian art- that the price was much lower,” Markin re- Gallery. Obviously, he has some bragging ists are achieving world-wide reputations calls. rights. Tretyakov was almost the same age and the prices for many of their works are Markin was far-sighted. Now his collec- (through he had fewer paintings) when he becoming really high. A painting by Kras- tion is truly unique, both in numbers and organized the first exhibition at his house. nopevtsev recently sold for $1 million. quality. It could be compared with the col- Markin says; “I really love art and I love col- “It all started about 15 years ago. I re- lection at the MMOMA (Moscow Museum lecting paintings. Now I have more that member I bought a new apartment at of Modern Art), but that has been assem- 100 artists and more than 700 works in my that time and didn’t like the blank walls. I bled over the past 100 years. Markin’s col- collection…Tretyakov had less, even at the bought two paintings: one by Zverev, the lection is post-war and contemporary. time of his death!” other by Yakovlev. Ten years later I real- His every remark on art, famous con- Markin was not an upper-class or a high- ized that Zverev’s work was a fake but the temporary artists and his own preferences ly educated kid. He was born into a poor graphic by Yakovlev is still there!” Markin proves that he is not an amateur and knows Soviet family. His education had nothing to admits. what he wants. Choosing art he follows his do with art: but he was educated as radio Fifteen years ago everything was differ- taste, but he also remembers that there is engineer. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, ent. “At that time almost no one took an a lot that he does not know. For the past he went into business – the construction interest in Russian art. It was only me and fifteen years he has been meeting a great materials, which now virtually runs by itself Vasya Tsereteli (now Executive Manager of number of art critics, gallery owner, and and Igor’s involvement is only as a share- the Moscow Museum of Modern Art and the artists themselves. Communication holder. He has the time and financial re- grandson of Zurab Tsereteli) who would with them has helped him to tell “good” sources to devote to art. buy these works. At that time we could from “bad”. Even now he always seeks ad- photo by Eugeniya Ksenofontova

28 06 2007 ART

vice from people he trusts before purchas- projections in the windows, computers ing an expensive work. He proudly shares in every hall, cushions to sit or lounge on, the stories of his visits to Yankilevsky’s (one beverages and snacks, pencils, watercolors of the “shestidesyatniki” group of artists) and paper for the kids to draw; everything tiny apartment in Paris. This group was one needs to enjoy the experience of art. branded by Khrushchev as “pederast-ab- He also promises a schedule of master- stractionists” at the notorious exhibition at classes, lectures and meetings with famous “Modern art has no frame, no style. It is all about the Manezh in Moscow in 1962. Yankilevsky artists. opening up to the new. This new could be so was lucky to be given a tiny apartment by Markin is a rebel, in a way. He does not new, that we cannot see its beauty, and only the French government and left the USSR. like many things about the contemporary years later we may exclaim: “How could we not He travels everywhere; buying paintings situation in the art business. Besides, he notice this new Van Gogh?” every week: about 150 artworks a year. Last cannot stand the “pointless” texts on art; autumn he considered buying Western bulky, filled with technical and meaning- art as well. The reason is simple – his 13th less terms, and never expressing an idea. painting by Krasnopevtsev (even though He decided to make a change. The open- “It does not matter what and how the great he is his favorite) would not make a great ing text of his catalogue is very expressive, artist expresses his ideas! The great works of difference to his collection. “The high-qual- even impressive – all the copy is in slang art resonance with something deep inside; stirs ity collection should not be created just with words that would require a “bleep” if some vibration in our brain and generates a by personal preference. It should be bal- read in public. great feeling of admiration.” anced!” Markin insists. The present location of the museum in And money is not a priority. After the first the city center has been a project for the ten years of collecting, he is not sure that it past six or seven years. The plans for the will ever pay him back in investment value. future are grand; no less than Moscow’s “There are about 20,000 artists in Russia. He just liked what he bought. Even now, “Guggenheim” and of course built by a Only 100 are really good. Only 10 have world when he obviously can make money, he world-renowned architect. Yet, there is still recognition.” does not. He only buys, never sells and now a slight chance that the museum might be “Why contemporary art? The answer is banal – it exhibits. Otherwise he could have opened handed over to the government – but that is beautiful.” Markin Gallery. But opening a museum is would create a “big threat” of Tsaritelli stat- another story. Referring to the question of ues being installed…... whether he is afraid to fail with his project, he gives an honest answer: “Why should I worry? I do not pay rent, this building is mine and I bought it outright. As for art, I Art4.ru am not going to sell my paintings.” WHEN: Grand Opening Celebration: May Markin smiles at the thought of giving 31st, opening to the public: June 1st, the the museum to Moscow. He does not want first day of summer it to become another place with gloomy WHERE: Khlynovsky Tupik, Dom #4 “babushkas”, hard benches and unwel- coming rules. His museum will have video-

06 2007 29 ART Russian painting & sculpture of the Silver Age

first quarter of the 20th century and the beginning of the Soviet period

By Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen

Pavel Trubetskoy (1866-1938) had a gift for The new themes and the new range of grasping that which was most characteris- images captivated the artists, but they tic in his sitter, and his elegant sculptures soon discovered that these themes called create the impression of an impulsively for an innovative development from the and accurately caught likeness instantly finest traditions of Russian art. A new embodied in bronze. One of his best works method gradually took shape, based on a is the statue of the painter Isaac Levitan historically concrete representation of real- (1889). Trubetskoy worked in Moscow, St. ity in its revolutionary development, and Petersburg, Milan and Paris, and earned an appraisal of life’s phenomena from the wide renown for his sculptural portraits, point of view of the builders of socialism genre compositions and monuments. and communism. In the 1930’s, when suf- ficient experience had been accumulated Anna Golubkina (1864-1927), a pupil of and the typical features of Soviet art had Rodin, gave a remarkable psychological become clearly defined, the method came characterization of a man living a tense to be called Socialist Realism. and complex intellectual life in the bust The establishment of the new Soviet art of writer A. Remizov (1911). The energetic made it imperative for artists and sculp- shaping of the wood, bearing traces of the tors, whatever grouping they belonged to sculptor’s temperamentally wielded chisel, before the Revolution, to join forces. This is typical of Golubkina’s style. extremely important problem was tackled Anna Golubkina "Starost" on the basis of Lenin’s plan of monumen- Unlike Trubetskoy and Golubkina, Sergei tal propaganda, published in 1918, the gist Konenkov (1874-1971) was hardly affected was only possible by means of a social revo- of which was that artists belonging to dif- by the influence of impressionism. By clev- lution. The movement that engulfed many ferent generations and all of those who erly exploiting the natural twists and knot- millions of people also embraced the cre- sincerely wanted to participate in the revo- tiness of a tree, he carved his “Field Goblin” ators of the professional artistic culture. lutionary transformation of life, should be (1910) in the guise of a typical old Russian drawn into the socialist construct. In the peasant wearing bast shoes and leaning on The Great October Socialist Revolu- years of the Civil War and foreign interven- a staff. tion opened new horizons for the multi- tion (1918-1920), and in those years of hun- national art of the Soviet Union. The Revo- ger and economic dislocation, new experi- The interest in the poetic structure of lution brought a cardinal change in the self- ences were acquired and new techniques their images, widespread among artists and awareness of the people, in their attitude were learnt from the practice of mass pro- sculptors of different schools was natural in towards art, and into the artist’s concept of pagandist art. Examples included design- the early 20th century. It stemmed from a his relationship with society. A campaign for ing the decorative setting for revolutionary conscious or intuitive rejection of the anti- eliminating the illiteracy of the population parades and other festive occasions, erect- aestheticism and prosaicism of the society was launched on a county-wide scale, and a ing sculptural monuments (sometimes of the time, the “one-dimensional” intellec- wide network of schools and cultural-and- from temporary materials), painting po- tual atmosphere of the petty bourgeoisie educational establishments was construct- litical posters, and designing books which with its bleak, standardized thinking, prag- ed, especially in the outlying non-Russian were brought out in popular editions and matism and greed for money. This non-ac- districts. The system of art education was circulated on a mass scale. The diversity of ceptance was a form of aesthetic protest also re-organized and a large number of art styles and techniques used in the graphic against what existed. And it went hand in schools and workshops were opened, ad- representation of life during the first ten hand with utopian hopes of reformatting mitting anyone who wished to study. The years following the revolution was enor- life according to the laws of beauty by just first exhibitions of Soviet art were arranged mous. using the impact of art. The social struggles by the state. The post-revolutionary era de- in the country that had become the center manded that artists should rise above any of a mighty revolutionary process gradually individualistic or “ivory-tower” tendencies dispelled these illusions. But it was the 1917 and that they should give a truthful inter- October Revolution which finally showed pretation of the new reality, taking an ac- To be continued that a radical reconstruction of life in Russia tive part in socialist construction.

30 06 2007 FEATURES

Hiking the Caucasus mountains

By Edie Gibson Last summer I was in the backyard of Putin’s From the entrance of the Reserve at lowed to boil spring water in the common dacha. Actually, I was on top of Mt. Fisht Lago-Naki to the foot of Mt Fisht, the hike kettle and to use the tables in the kitchen of Adyghea, which looks down on Putin’s is about 17 km (10.5 mi.) of breathtaking tent. Sleeping inside the platform has the mountainside dacha and is practically in beauty. Mt. Fisht stands at the western advantage of keeping you protected from its backyard. But, to tell you truth, on top point of the Кавказский государственный the cold night air. of Mt. Fisht Putin’s dacha is the last thing I биосферный заповедник (Caucasus State Plan to leave early in the morning if you wanted to look at. Biosphere Reserve) which was put on want to reach the summit in one day. The In the Adygh language, Fisht means UNESCO’s list of biosphere reserves in 1979. morning’s clear blue sky often gives way in “White Head”. It is an appropriate name The mountain can only be reached by foot the afternoon to clouds that cover Mt. Fisht for the bald rock summit of one of Russia’s or on horseback. At an easy pace, the return with mists, which can be dangerous. The best known and most popular hiking desti- trip can be done in four days starting from hike to the summit is 3-6 hours. Although nations in the North Caucasus. Despite its the end of the Lago-naki road, at a place some climbing is required it can be done by height, this majestic 2867m (1792ft) peak nicknamed “End of the Earth”. Beyond this children. Just below the white rock summit does not require climbing experience. point are treeless mountain slopes which you must cross a glacier. In some parts the Our trip started in Maikop, the capital of look too vast and desolate to transverse. snow is steep and everywhere it is slippery, the Republic of Adyghea. From there we Yet, with our backpacks tightly strapped so be sure you take good shoes and per- drove out of town towards the village of and our feet pounding the dirt path these haps a walking stick with a pointed end. Tulsky. We had a private van but could have slopes seemed to float past us, giving Once we had slipped, slid, and crawled hired a taxi at the train station. The road way to meadows and mountain passes over the snow a rocky ridge led us up to the runs along the picturesque gorge of the crisscrossed by cold, refreshing mountain bald rock summit. From where we stood all Belaya River. Past the waterfalls at Khadjok streams and saturated with the aroma of the North Caucasus lay at our feet. On one we turned left and crossed the river, head- wildflowers. side the bowl-shaped valley rises to the ing towards Lago-Naki. This road took us From the top of the last mountain pass green slopes and cliffs of the mountains from the serene forests of the lower slopes you can see all the glory of Mt Fisht, from of Adyghea. On the other side the moun- up through peaceful mountain meadows the tip of its “White Head” to the peaceful tains gradually step down to the Black Sea dotted by brightly painted bee houses and bowl-shaped valley at its foot. In this val- which can be seen on a clear day glistening past breathtaking panoramas from higher ley you find a hiking shelter where you can in the distance. On this side also sits Putin’s and higher altitudes. Once we past the spend the first night. This Fishtinsky priyut dacha. You may climb 2867m to gawk at it if boundary of the national park, or reserve, offers a place on one of its lumpy but com- you wish, but I think you will find that view it turned into a dirt road and eventually we fortable sleeping platforms complete with hardly worth a glance compared to the could drive no further. As we tumbled out unwashed pillows and random bedmates magnificence of God’s nature. of our vans, we felt that the August humid- all for 80r a night. Bring your own sleeping ity of Maikop had changed to crisp, cool bag. For 50r you may set up your tent next mountain air. to a bubbling mountain river and be al-

06 2007 31 FEATURES

A student’s view from the provinces

By Alex Ferrier Photos courtesyPhotos of www.volganet.ru

VOLGOGRAD - It's a condition of my degree that I have to spend a year living in Russia, and it's always been an ambition of mine as well. After suffering mild culture shock in Moscow, I thought that living elsewhere in Russia would be a breeze for a sophisticated British student like myself. Not so. Away from the tourist spotlight which falls on Moscow and St Petersburg, the rest of Russia works to other rules. Time moves at a different pace in my new home town, where not only are postcards from 1989 still on sale, they are in fact the only postcards on sale. Being a student in provincial Russia is particularly difficult, because there's not much to do. Rather than immersing ourselves in our books and striving to improve our understanding of Russian, we have to find other things to occupy our time. This means going to the cinema at least twice a week, even to see truly awful films (Epic Movie, anyone?), but being too much of a miserly student to pay out an extra ten roubles for the really good VIP seats. And you may find that you develop a keen interest in the hitherto utterly incomprehensible game of Russian billiards, purely because it's a lot cheaper than going bowling. The nightlife can also be problematic. At 11pm, when the student populations of Moscow and St. Petersburg are just emerging to begin their nights out, the bars here are just closing. The main nightclub in town is doing well tohave an intake of more than twenty on a Friday night. And, if you decide to stay in, you quickly discover that your Russian neighbors are not shy about calling the militsia if you speak above a whisper after 8pm. In common with Moscow, the shops never seem to have enough change, and thousand rouble notes at the kassa are met with a sharp intake of breath and heavenward eye rolling. But here, they don't bother with the meaningless social nicety of an explanation. No, here they save time and valuable oxygen by simply snatching your would- be purchases from your clutching fingers and tucking them out of reach behind the counter, as if you had just announced your intention to assasinate the cashier with your cornflakes and toilet roll. And the rouble shortage in the provinces is not restricted to shops. So, if you're one of those students who always brings dollars

32 06 2007 FEATURES

because you were too lazy to order roubles them as well) who will try to kiss your hand at the travel agent, be warned - you may instead of shaking it. get to the bureau de change with a fistful And there are other benefits. Cleaner air, of dollars, only to be told that the bank has less traffic, cheaper prices and, as a rule, the run out of roubles. people are much friendlier. Some Russian Away from the westernised big cities, friends brought a carrier bag full of whole Russian men do not shake hands with (and fortunately cooked) prawns to go with women. The first time this happened, and I our beer one night. In any bar in Moscow, was ignored after my male companions this would have resulted in immediate ejec- were greeted with warm handshakes, I tion from said bar to the street, the prawns was left dumbfounded. Now, however, I ground underfoot by the okhranniki. have come to regard this as an added ad- Here, they just brought us extra napkins. vantage of provincial life, since I don't need And would I swap the idylls of rural life to grasp any sweaty hands whilst trying for the glitter and grime of Moscow? to remember who's a Sasha and who's a In a heartbeat. But I'm here for at least Lyokha. Female students should, though, another two months, so if anybody could be cautious: there are some Russian men explain the rules of Russian billiards to me, (no doubt other nationalities suffer from I'd be ever so grateful....

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TOTAL BILL TOTAL be treated with the chef’s gourmet invention – sushi cocktail. Ichiro San will offer an ex- traordinary experience to any demanding taste. A cozy Japanese style interior, traditional

% OFF music and finest sushi will add to your spiritual harmony and provide inspiration for the

15 cash payments only please bring this coupon along with you and produce it to the restaurant manager valid till 30 June 2007 rest of the day. 7 Krasina Str., Bldg. 1. M. Mayakovskaya Tel.: (495) 254-7908 Yuri Navarro goes it alone Yuri Navarro, the popular long-time chef and host at Santa Fé has left the Rosinter group and launched his own Bar and Grill, Navarro’s, a couple of blocks away on Shmitovskiy proezd. The restaurant is in a self-contained two story building. With only a couple of old colleagues, Yuri opted for a soft opening so his new staff can get trained-in without being swamped by demanding customers. The restaurant offers an eclectic mix of South American and Mediterranean cuisine dominated by fish and seafood, augmented with Argentinean steaks. The restaurant has a casual dining area around the bar and a more formal dining room. Dinner won’t break the bank, and lunches are a real bargain including pizzas and chicken wings as well as Tapas. The couscous seafood Paella is a real feast and comes with Kamchatka crab in the shell, mussels, calamari and shrimps. Delicious! Shmitovskiy proezd, 23, bldg 4, M.1905 Goda Tel.: (495) 259-3791 Scandinavia Cafe opens for summer Scandinavia Restaurant has opened its much-loved cafe for the summer. Welcomed by expats for its friendly atmosphere and attentive service, the terrace is a place to see ‘anyone who is anyone’ in Moscow’s international business community during a summer evening. Apart from your reporter, one evening recently saw a clutch of expat millionaires, a table of hoteliers, several bankers, lawyers and realtors all enjoying the fading sunshine over drinks before dinner. The café is an oasis in the heart of Moscow, a perfect place to meet for a cold beer, or- ganic juices, a casual lunch or dinner or just an espresso with a freshly-baked sandwich. Try the baked potato with a variety of fillings. Just stop by, you are sure to find a vacant table or maybe you'll see a friend to sit down with. Maly Palashevsky per. 7, off Tverskaya 19 M. Pushkinskaya Tel.: (495) 937-5630 Marriott is 80 years old Marriott International marked its 80th birthday on May 20. On that day in 1927 a nine- seat root beer stand was opened in Washington, D.C. by J. Willard Marriott. In 1964 Marriott handed the presidency to his son, J.W. (Bill) Marriott, Jr. who concentrated on building the lodging segment of the business. The Marriott brand entered the Moscow market in August 1997, when the 386-room five-star Marriott Grand hotel opened on Tverskaya Street. The hotel will mark its 10th anniversary later this year. In 1999 two more Marriott hotels opened – the Marriott Tverskaya and the Marriott Royal Aurora. All three hotels are managed by the Interstate Hotels & Resorts, one of the biggest independent hotel management companies in the U.S.A. They joined the Renaissance Hotel on Olimpisky Prospekt, another Marriott brand. They have since been joined by Courtyard by Marriott on Vosnesensky per. Shortly the Marriott flagship, Ritz Carlton, will open on the site of the former Intourist hotel on Tverskaya street. It is accepting bookings from 1 July.

34 06 2007 WINE & DINE

Fetish

By Charles W. Borden Photographs by Ruslan Sergeev

We heard JuJu was a South African restau- pottery or glassware items, in this case sev- our return visit for a wine tasting, the man- rant, on the outer side of the Garden ring, eral pale green and yellow vases, and lays datory selection. Meena Mylvanganam- between Smolenskaya and Park Kultury. them out on shelves from floor to ceiling. Tay, wife of the Singapore Ambassador, Another creation of Moscow’s leading res- JuJu’s grill area also has wood-fired stoves. described the lamb as: “grilled to perfec- taurateur, Arkady Novikov, it is vaguely The entire kitchen is overseen by Chef An- tion with the meat succulent and soft, fall- reminiscent of colonial style. JuJu actually drey Tysyachnikov, formerly of Biscuit, one ing off the bone. The half is brought to the has some original African art as well as pho- of Moscow’s early elitny establishments. table where the waiters serve the meat to tographs and other trinkets. But that’s as far you on two plates before leaving the rest as the token abeyance to Africa goes. When Cold starters and salads range from 350 for you to 'devour' as you please!” we picked up the menu, I expected to find to 850 rubles. At our host’s suggestion at least crocodile or some fried locusts or we started with the Salad with Panfried The spinach was very tasty and fresh and boiled sheep heads, but no, this is just a Shrimps and Scallops (850r). This consisted not overcooked, but plain old kartofelny plain old grill with Russian touches, good of an ample serving of arugula, iceberg puree (mashed potatoes) for the same and well-done, but that is the genre. On and other greens served in a deep wooden price, about 6 bucks, PLEASE!! You can also second thought, maybe that’s just as well. bowl, topped with two skewers of grilled overspend on other Russian delicacies such shrimp and scallops and a touch of sesame as Borsh at only 350 rubles and Cheburek at JuJu features many of the typical Novikov oil/peanut sauce. Not bad, but 32 bucks? just 270 rubles. Russian guests should also touches, an open grill and prep area, sur- be pleased that bread was readily available, rounded as if by an open market of pro- For the main course, most ordered the including Borodinsky and two other open duce, meats, fish and spices – in this case Quarter Lamb (for two at 2450r) and for market specialties. Don’t get me wrong, fish laid out on ice, burlap bags filled with sides the Spinach with Garlic (150r) and Borodinsky is one of my favorites, but I walnuts, dried beans, red onions, peanuts, Mashed Potatoes (150r). The lamb is served don’t expect it on the table at an elitny sunflower seeds. For dividing walls and on a large plate with a broth and stewed Novikov restaurant. wallcover, Novikov typically picks a few tomatoes – this is a signature dish and on

06 2007 35 WINE & DINE

African artefacts Room dividers use glass containers

Juju (joo'joo) noun: A couple of us ordered other entrees - Crab Gratin with Wasabi (1100r) and Ribeye Steak (850r), and a side of Fried Mushrooms An object used as a fetish, charm or amulet. with Vegetables (650r). The crab appeared to be shredded crab- The supernatural power ascribed to such an meat mixed with a light whipped sauce of lemon, egg yolk and cheese, attractive on the plate and according to our guest, deli- object. cious. The ribeye was large enough and when I asked for medium, it actually arrived somewhat pink in the middle.

The wine list was a little thin, but there were some good values. For red, the Australian D’Arenburg Shiraz The Footbolt 2004 was very good at 1900 rubles. We also ordered the Simonsig Syrah Me- rindol 2003 (3100 rubles) but there was unanimous preference for the Footbalt.

Overall the atmosphere at JuJu was pleasant and the service excellent. If you are set on trying Ju Ju, do the lamb for two, the spinach side, and a bottle of the Footbolt, a total of just over 4500 rubles or about $175 for two persons. If you want a salad, go for the shrimp and scallop.

Ju Ju Smolenski Bulvar 15 291-16-67, 291-64-61

36 06 2007 WINE TASTING

Around the World with Shiraz by Charles W. Borden

This month, the Knights of the Vine took a trip around the globe to test the Shiraz wines (or Syrah depending on the country), that have become a favorite around Passport magazine, especially the Big Australians. We quickly found in our voyage through Moscow’s wine bouфtiques that there are dozens of good, if not great Australian Shiraz wines, but it was much more difficult to find examples from other countries.

According to legend, the Syrah grape, The Syrah grape journeyed to Australia known as Shiraz in Australia and South much earlier, from Montpellier in 1832 by Africa, was brought in the 13th century to James Busby. Since French grape growers the northern Rhone river valley from the were reluctant to properly identify grape Iranian city of Shiraz by the Crusader Guy varieties that were exported, it received De’Sterimberg. De’Sterimberg planted the name Shiraz. Once in New South Wales, vineyards in the Rhone valley and also be- the new grape adapted quickly and spread came a hermit, thus the district he lived in widely. Shiraz became the most widely became known as the Hermitage. Though grown grape in Australia. There it produces most of the legend is correct, from DNA powerful, broad, fruity wines, more expres- tests it now appears that De’Sterimberg’s sive than the Rhone Syrah counterparts, vines, which have become the backbone though the grape variety is identical. In Aus- of French Hermitage, Cote-Rotie and Cote tralia, Shiraz is often blended with Cabernet du Rhone wines among others, are truly Sauvignon to produce Cabernet Shiraz. French. On Australian Shiraz Two Syrah grapes can be distinguished “Basically, there are four styles of Australian Shiraz: the black in the northern Rhone. The Petite Syrah pepper/spice Rhône Valley look-alikes of Central and Southern (which is not the same as the Petite Sirah Victoria, north of Melbourne; the lush, concentrated, dense grape grown in North and South America) wines of the Barossa Valley northwest of Adelaide, exemplified has small berries and is superior to the by Penfold's Grange; the smooth, red cherry and mint style of larger Gross Syrah. Syrah's black grape pro- Coonawarra and Clare Valley, both near the coast in the vicinity duces dark and dense wines that do well of Adelaide; and the earthy, velvety reds of the Hunter Valley in with oak aging and have great potential New South Wales, northwest of Sydney.” for longevity. Syrah grapes do best in warm Steve Pitcher, Vintner’s Choice climates. We had to issue a warning for this tasting: In the 1970’s, Syrah began to spread Shiraz wines have been pushing the 16% to other areas of France and in the 1990’s “alcohol limit” that defines wine – a poten- to Spain near Toledo and to the Tuscany tial problem for our wine tasters at the table region of Italy. There is now a new Italian this night as our tasters are not big on the DOC, Cortona Syrah; around Cortona in the “taste and spit” tradition of the industry. far south of Tuscany, a city celebrated by We started our world tour in South Africa the best seller, Under the Tuscan Sun. and finished with the Big Australians.

06 2007 37 WINE TASTING

Sammy Kotwani Patrick O'Dolan with Tony Wong Meena Mylvaganam-Tay

Shiraz Around the World

South Africa Then we took a quick hop south to Sicily France Several years ago Preston Haskell, the for Planeta Syrah 2004. Planeta is one of the We could hardly do justice to the Syrahs Chairman of Moscow’s Colliers Interna- leading modern wineries on the island. of Cote du Rhone with just one wine, but tional, purchased vineyards in the Stellen- we selected one of the best, the Hermitage California bosch district of South Africa. His Haskell 2002 Paul Jaboulet Aine, described by Wine Syrah has been making inroads in Cali- Dombeya Shiraz 2003 scored very well Spectator (88) as solid black cherry and fornia (where it must be distinguished from in previous tastings at 3.84, but fell short briar flavors backed by the vintage's crisp the entirely different grape Petite Sirah), this time. Since personal experience on a edge. Good weight and depth on the finish, but acreage is still small. The best California follow-up with this wine has confirmed its with hints of toast and grilled herbs.” Syrah wines come from the Central Coast high quality, I can only conclude that the near Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, Australia result this evening was a problem with this of Sideways fame. The press descriptions This was a return trip to Australia. We did particular bottle. Glen Carlou is a top win- of the only two California Syrahs we could an extensive review of Australian wines in ery from Paarl, and the Glen Carlou Syrah find in Moscow were not promising so we January 2006, accompanied by PGA golf- 2004 scored well with Wine Spectator, skipped the Bonny Doon Le Pousseur Syrah pro-turned-wine-pro Grant Dodd. In that though not at our table. for Francis Coppola’s Syrah 2000. Despite issue we tried no less than 13 Shiraz wines, Glen Carlou Syrah 2004 WS 90 this wine’s Wine Spectator 78 score and de- many of which are imported to Russia by Big, juicy Syrah, with dark plum, blackberry scription as “murky, with weird flavors,” this Grant. We did not repeat them for this tast- and cocoa flavors. Plenty of structure too, wine exceeded expectations with KOVR. ing but did select some of the pricier Shi- with a smoky, muscular finish. Hint of min- raz wines in Moscow. We began with the Spain eral. Drink now through 2007. 7,500 cases spectacular Torbreck - The Factor 2003, a Although we had previously tried an- made. –JM very high scoring wine (Wine Spectator 94 other excellent Spanish Syrah (April issue), Source: Wine Spectator / Robert Parker 96) from Barossa Valley. Syrah Marques de Grinon 2002 (Dominio de Italy Valdepusa), we found just one additional Torbreck - The Factor 2003 Our next stop was the new Cortona Syr- Syrah for this stopover. The Arrayan Syrah Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 96 ah DOC for a taste of Collezione de Marchi 2003 (Metrida, Spain) has a Wine Spectator The 2003 The Factor (100% Shiraz aged 24 Syrah 2003 from Isola e Olena, the leading 87 and was described as “expressive flavors months in old French oak) is a riveting ef- Syrah innovator in Italy. This wine came in of currant, black pepper and mocha, with fort that displays th e exquisite talent of Da- second in the Non-Australian group. firm tannins supporting a thick yet fresh vid Powell. Its smoky perfume of blackber- texture.” ry liqueur intermixed with cherries, acacia Isola e Olena Collezione de Marchi Syrah flowers, and espresso roast is followed by 2003 WS 89 Chile a full-throttle, multi-layered palate as well Lots of blackberry, raspberry and black On to Chile, where Syrah plantings be- as a 60-second finish. This stunning Shiraz pepper aromas. Full-bodied, with silky tan- gan in 1993. We landed in Elqui Valley, the should drink well for 10-15+ years. nins and a medium finish. Best after 2007. earth’s magnetic center according to Age Source: The Wine Advocate 875 cases made. –JS of Aquariusts, to try Alta Tierra Syrah 2002. Source: Wine Spectator We weren’t high on this one. We followed the top scorer with Haan

38 06 2007 WINE TASTING raters

John Ortega Master Knight, KOVR Publisher and Owner, Passport Magazine Charles Borden Director, Meridian Capital David Lane President, Tablogix Linda Lippner U.S. Embassy Sammy Kotwani CEO, Imperial Tailoring Meena Mylvaganam-Tay Editor Patrick O'Dolan CEO Moscom Communications Group H.E. Michael Tay Ambassador of Singapore George Voloshin John Ortega and David Lane examine a bottle of wine International Business Director Alexander Stefanovic Film Director and Deputy Editor, Ineit Maga- zine Shiraz Prestige 1999, which we had previ- Shiraz/Cabernet Woms (65% Shiraz and Tony Wong ously reviewed with a score of 3.64, which it 35% Cabernet Sauvignon). Made in a more Director, Schering-Plough Russia well exceeded this time out. The Clare Val- elegant style, it offers notions of Proven- ley Jeanneret Syrah 1998 was disappoint- cal herbs, pepper, garrigue, black currants, ing. To digress to a blend, we tried one blackberries, and toasty oak. It should age Ortega easy rating system of Grant Dodd’s pricier imports, Kaesler well for 12-15 years. WOMS Cabernet-Shiraz 2004, also a high Source: The Wine Advocate I love this wine! 5 pts. Parker at 95. I really like this wine! 4 pts. This wine is good! 3 pts. Kaesler WOMS Cabernet-Shiraz 2004 We finished with Giaconda Warner Vine- This wine is not that good! 2 pts. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 95 yard Shiraz 2004, a pricy and disappointing I don’t really care for this wine! 1 pt. An intriguing blend is the sensational 2004 finish.

the ratings Retail USD Retail RR Retailer Rating Syrah Worldwide Haskell Dombeya Shiraz 2003 (Stellenbosch, South Africa) Palais 2.74 Glen Carlou Syrah 2004 (Paarl, South Africa) 3.01 Isola e Olena Collezione de Marchi Syrah (Tuscany, Italy) $112.45 2,890r. Magnum 4.05 Planeta Syrah 2004 (Sicily, Italy) $82.88 2,130r. KV 3.26 Francis Coppola Syrah 2000 (California) $43.31 1,113r. Magnum 2.90 Arrayan Syrah 2003 (Metrida, Spain) $75.10 1,930r. KV 3.49 Alta Tierra Syrah 2002 (Elqui Valley, Chile) $44.75 1,150r. KV 3.24 Hermitage 2002 Paul Jaboulet Aine (Cote du Rhone, France) $182.88 4,700r. KV 4.14 Total Syrah Worldwide $541.36 13,913r. Average Syrah Worldwide 3.35

Syrah Australian 1. Torbreck The Factor 2003 (Barossa Valley) 4.50 2. Haan Shiraz Prestige 1999 (Barossa Valley) Palais 4.13 3. Jeanneret Syrah 1998 (Clare Valley) 3.49 4. Kaesler WOMS 2004 (Barossa Valley) $147.86 3,800r. Magnum 3.83 5. Giaconda Warner Vineyard Shiraz 2004 (NE Victoria) $154.82 3,979r. KV 3.55 Total Syrah Australian $302.68 7,779r. Average Syrah Australian 3.90

Purchases from: Palais (Palais Royal), KV (Kollektion Vino), Magnum (DP Trade). Wines without prices came from the cellar.

06 2007 39 WINE TASTING

Singapore Selection The Menu for a Singapore Evening by Charles W. Borden Yu Sheng Chinese Raw Fish Salad Josmeyer 1997 Riesling A colourful salad of raw fish, crunchy vegetables and pickles usually eaten during the Lunar New Year, created in Singapore that has been exported to Malaysia and Hong Kong, but not found in China. Besides being full of flavours and textures, the dish is filled with symbolic meaning, like most things Chinese. The raw ingredients signify the renewal of life. The sound of the word for fish in Cantonese sounds like that for prosperity. Chilli Prawns Yalumba Shiraz 2003 (Australia) A true Singaporean dish usually made with crab. Taste the spici- ness and sweetness of the tomato-chilli sauce – a fusion of the Ambassador Tay pours Meena Mylvanganam-Tay chats to Ian different ethnic groups of Singapore. champagne for his guests Jones, GM Swissotel Kiam Chye Ahk Duck & Preserved Mustard Green Soup Leon Beyer Gewurtztraminer Reserve 2001 A Chinese soup often served during the Lunar New Year as it keeps well without refrigeration. Grilled Cod with Shitake Mushrooms Marlborough Pinot Noir A modern take on the traditional Chinese steamed fish dish, this time grilled but using the same seasonings – Chinese wine, sesame oil, soya sauce and sugar Roast Duck Leon Beyer Gewurtztraminer Reserve 2001 Crispy grilled duck served with plum sauce Main Course of Peranakan Cuisine Peranakan, or Straits-born Chinese, are unique to Singapore, L-R: David Wack of Squire Sanders & Dempsey, George Voloshin, Melaka and Penang in Malaysia. Chinese traders and voyagers International Business Director, Maria Ramos and Ian Jones. Charles of the 15th century first settled in Melaka where they married Borden in the background. Malay women, creating a new culture - language, clothing, customs and food combining Chinese and Malay elements. When We enjoyed a Singapore Evening at the residence of Singapore Ambassa- Singapore was established by the British in the early 19th cen- dor Michael Tay and his wife Meena Mylvanganam-Tay. Meena is editing a tury, many Straits Chinese moved to Singapore, thereby creating book on the subject of matching wine with Asian foods. another culture - that of the Peranakan Singaporean, combin- Armed with the menu in advance, John Ortega selected a couple cases of ing Chinese, Malay and other influences for a unique blend. The wine and beat the traffic to the ambassador's door. food you will taste is a sample of their rich cuisine. Notice that the names of the dishes are in Malay but the ingredients are Chinese We were presented with two white and two red wines, and we tested all but cooked Malay-style with chilli, spices and coconut milk. four against each menu item. The first flight consisted of a Josmeyer 1997 Riesling (Alsace), Leon Beyer Gewurtztraminer Reserve 2001 (Alsace), Ya- Ayam Tempra Chicken with Soya Sauce & Lime lumba Shiraz 2003 (Australia) and a New Zealand Marlborough Pinot Noir Josmeyer 1997 Riesling (New Zealand). For latter dishes, two additional Australian Shiraz wines Sambal Babi Pork in Spicy Chilli Sauce were served – Jeanneret Shiraz 1998 and Haan Shiraz Prestige 1999. Des- Jeanneret Shirz 1998 sert was accompanied with a very nice Chilean Viu Manent Late Harvest Kobis Masak Lemak Cabbage Cooked in Coconut Milk Haan Semillion. Shiraz Prestige 1999 Sambal Timun Cucumber Salad with Dried Prawn Chilli Dressing Tasted in this manner, especially with contrast of the Asian dishes, there Haan Shiraz Prestige 1999 were definitely winners and losers for each menu item, and it was some- Mango Soup what surprising how a change in the spice profile could shift a wine pref- Viu Manent Late Harvest Semillion erence from a light, white Riesling like the Josmeyer to a powerful Austra- Kuih Lapis Indonesian Layer Cake lian Shiraz like the Yalumba. There was also a fair amount of agreement Viu Manent Late Harvest Semillion at the table on the selections. The preferred wines are noted in the menu below. A multi-layered grilled cake rich with eggs and spices Meena supervised the preparation of the food selection for the evening Pineapple Tarts and helped us understand the nuances of Singapore cuisine. Each menu Viu Manent Late Harvest Semillion item was delightful, and the wine comparisons provided a challenge. The food, atmosphere and company made the evening truly enjoyable.

40 06 2007 WINE & DINE

Quality is driving force behind Ichiban Boshi

By Annet Kulyagina When you walk into Ichiban Boshi, the I did not know the ABC’s about Moscow,” year-round and this requires great atten- Japanese restaurant on Krasnaya Presnaya, Tsutsui admits candidly in the boardroom tion to how they store and transport their a waitress shouts a “welcome!” in Japanese off the main restaurant hall. “I had to find ingredients and finished food. “We are very and shows you to your seat. The cry also a local partner; we had to locate suitable conscious of hygiene and sanitary control.” alerts the kitchen staff that a new customer premises; we had to decorate and finally, That means they have special take away is on the premises. When it’s peak time on after a year, in April 2004 we opened this SOPs (standard operating procedures) to a weekday, with office workers from the restaurant.” combat the growth of bacteria. Similarly, neighborhood crowding in for their fix of “Our pace is very slow compared to oth- for handling raw tuna in the kitchen, the “Sushi and so much more,” to quote the ers,” (restaurant developers) he says. “We duo insists on it being wrapped in absor- restaurant’s slogan, the noise can reach the made some mistakes, but we are pushing bent paper. “If tuna is exposed to air it dries level of a busy and boisterous market. on,” he concedes with an infectious smile out, if it is in sealed containers it develops It is just one of the details that Japa- that lights up his face. a smell. The paper absorbs the drips, no nese-born restaurant entrepreneur, Taki “Pushing on” means opening a second smell!” says Tsutsui with another beaming Tsutsui, and his chef, Hideki Kishimoto, are Ichiban Boshi on Prospekt Verndaskogo last smile. insistent on. December and in April, opening a Japanese On a serious note, he says that with Sushi Being Japanese, both are passionate fine dining restaurant, “Tsvetenie Sakury on restaurants it is very easy to end up with about their national food and its highest ulitsa Krasina.” This is typical of RE & S who food that’s past its prime. quality. The pair has worked together for favor an unhurried Japanese approach to “I’m not denigrating Russian cooks, but six years, including three in Singapore. The business, learning from the first outlet and our Japanese have more sensitive taste chain originated there as part of the RE&S refining their product before branching buds to our national dishes and are able to Enterprises group, which covers eight out. Now their pace is heating up with a sense quality or a problem more quickly.” brands of Japanese restaurants in the food- third Ichiban Boshi scheduled for this year Generous of spirit, he is unstinting in his mad city-state. With six outlets in Singa- and two more planned for 2008. praise of how Russians have seized the Jap- pore, Ichiban Boshi is the largest chain and Being Japanese both Tsutsui and Kishi- anese Sushi dining culture and notes the Tsutsui’s sights are set on a similar number moto are serious about Japanese food. increasing professionalism in local chains in Moscow alone. “What we are doing is not something very such as Yakitoria, which he has watched Against fast growing Moscow city busi- unique, but we take it seriously,” Tsutsui grow over the last four years. “Their quality nesses, they have taken a measured Japa- told Passport. is improving and their standard of service is nese approach to developing the brand in He points out that in Singapore they ex- improving. I admire the way they are han- Moscow. “When I came here four years ago perience very high tropical temperatures dling their business.”

06 2007 41 WINE & DINE

Adrian Quetglas,

Executive Chef of Café Cipollino talks to Annet Kulyagina

Photos by Ruslan Sergeev

Cipollino is an Italian name. Are you but food is my mission, and I like it that way. Italian? I like talking about food and this is my style I was born in Argentina, but I am Spanish. I of life. This passion took me over and I am left Argentina when I was young. no longer anyone except a chef.

They say that Spanish men are the most Do you take this passion home? passionate men about everything they do, Oh, yes! Sometimes I cook more at home are you passionate about what you do? than in the restaurant. I have to say I never About cooking, yes! It is not just my work, create my new dishes in the restaurant. It is it is my life. Everything in my life is about hard when you are busy controlling every- cooking. All my friends, even if they are not thing in the kitchen. I create new recipes at cooks, like to eat good food, or they are home when I have time to think in a quiet passionate about good wines. atmosphere. First I put my thoughts on paper, then I prepare the new dish at home You only have food in your life? and I correct any mistakes. Only then I bring Well, not quite that. I have a big family: par- the new dish to my restaurant and show it ents, my wife, children, my brothers and to the guys. I like being in the kitchen. It sisters - all of them are important for me; gives me strength.

42 06 2007 WINE &DINE

You seem to know what you are living for. modern, classical, Asian, fusion. The thing is Well, I wouldn’t say that, but what I mean to change Russian cuisine a little bit and to is that I really know I am doing my job. I am make people remember our restaurant. in the place where I should be in my life. I knew that I would become a cook from How? Do you want to teach Russian peo- childhood. You know, Spanish people like ple to eat different food? to eat and cook, and there are a lot of differ- No, not quite that. I like Russian cuisine but ent kinds of dishes you can cook differently I think it is too heavy. I will cook traditional to finally make something new. What I am Russian food but I do it less calorie-filled doing is trying to make a complicated dish and more “taste-ful”. Let me explain: here look simple. in Russia I find a tradition that perhaps food is just for eating but not for pleasure. This How is that possible? is incorrect. You may find a lot of pleasant I will give you an example. When people moments in food and enrich your inner are coming to the restaurant they are not world by giving yourself a different taste coming just to eat but to have a new ex- experience. perience. When they leave, I want them to feel fresh and light. The cuisine traditions of And again, how? all countries are changing to give the food I would call this process changing eating less calories. That is what I am doing. I make habits by using the taste memory. simple transparent dishes for the guest to see what is in it. I make complicated dishes, Sounds scientific… the ones you cannot cook at home because Well in a way... There are foods the taste of you don’t have all the necessary equipment which you remember form your childhood in your kitchen, and make it look simple and you got so used to that taste that you showing each guest the ingredients. will not confuse it with anything else. In Spain for example it is red pepper. One of Are your guests satisfied with your ap- the Russian products is the beet which peo- proach? ple use to make the famous Russian borsch. Well, guests are coming not only for the I have made new borsch for Cipollino, but it food but also for the interior and the ser- has the flavor of traditional beet borsch but vice; the restaurant starts at the entrance. is slightly different. I take all the ingredients You decide right after you enter the door and make it lighter. Maybe because of the whether you like it or not. All the employ- beet this soup seems usual. And the visi- ees are working together for the guests. I tors like this soup. The tradition is to eat it see my objective as making my guests plan with sour cream but I don’t serve it with our a return as soon as possible for another borsch and it is popular anyway! new experience. I want them to have the idea that the dish they eat is simple but the What is your secret as a Chef that makes only place they can have it is Cipollino. And your guests come back again? my ambition is to make Cipollino one of the I don’t lie with my food. Everything you eat best restaurants in Moscow. is what it is with the original flavor and everything has to be cooked at a minimum. But there are many restaurants in Moscow… This is the way I work. When you see my I know. There are many good restaurants; dishes they are fresh and light.

Café Cipollino 7 Soimonovskiy Proezd, Bldg. 1. Tel.: (495) 291-6576

06 2007 43 WINE & DINE

Salad of grilled squid, new potatoes and chorizo with rukkola and passion fruit oil

A dish to make at home, by Adrian Quetglas

Pumpkin puree: Cover the pumpkin with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 10-15 minutes until the pumpkin is soft and just cooked. Ingredients: serves 6 Drain the pumpkin well and lightly toast the anise. Add the seeds to 3 fresh squid (cleaned and diced) the pumpkin flesh and pass through a fine sieve. Season to taste. 18 baby new potatoes (boiled) 18 thin slices of chorizo "Iberico" The passion fruit oil: 6 bunches of rocket leaves Place the passion fruit pulp and orange juice in a saucepan and pulp of 6 passion fruits bring to the boil. Simmer gently and reduce until it just starts to 150ml orange juice thicken. Pass through a fine sieve and whisk in the olive oil. Season 150ml olive oil to taste.

The ingredients for salad: Pumpkin puree: Heat a griddle pan or non-stick frying pan. Cut the cooked pota- 500g pumpkin flesh toes in half lengthways and add a little olive oil and seasoning. 6 anise seeds Place them on the griddle pan and grill for 1-2 minutes. Turn them over and add the diced squid. Grill the squid for 30 seconds on each side then add the chorizo slices to warm them through. Place all the warm ingredients in a bowl add a few drops of passion fruit oil, rocket leaves and mix well.

To serve: Place a spoonful of pumpkin puree in the middle of 6 warmed plates. Divide the salad between the plates, drizzle with a little passion fruit oil and serve.

44 06 2007 WINE & DINE Accenti Bavarius Cutty Sark Correa’s Innovative Italian with Japanese touches. Bavarian food, beer. Noon-midnight. Restaurant stylized as a luxury ocean yacht. Fresh seafood. A chain of charming New York-style cafe restaurants. 11.00-last guest. 7 Kropotkinsky Per., 246-1515 2/30 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya Ul., Bldg. 1, 299-4211 Aquarium with live lobsters and crabs; over 40 varieties of Reservation advised. 9.00-24.00. Park Kultury (Fri, Sat, Sun) Mayakovskaya fish in an ice showcase; oysters bar. Seasonal offers from 82/2 Sadovnacheskaya Ul., 969-2113 the chef. Wine from France, Italy, Spain and the New World Paveletskaya Adriatico Banana Leaf and other elite beverages; cigars. "Captain's Cabin" VIP 40/2 Bolshoi Ordinka Street , 725-6035 Exquisite dining. Four seating areas, each with its own style Sports bar with huge video screen and decent Indian room. Summer terrace. 11.00-midnight. Tretiakovskaya and menu. Noon-last guest. food. Noon-22.45 (restaurant), 10.00-22.30 (sports bar). 12 Novinsky Bulvar, 202-1312/1621 32 Bolshoi Gruzinskaya Street, 205-9100 3 Blagoveschensky Per., 209-7914 2 Kozitsky Per., 229-2114 Smolenskaya, Barrikadnaya Belorusskaya Mayakovskaya Tverskaya 85/1 Rublevo-Uspenskoe Highway, 739-2586 Cantinetta Antinori Aist Bega Tokyo Krilatskoe Out-of-this-world Italian plus a selection of 50+ Antinori Occupying a three-floor mansion, the first floor holds a Modern Japanese restaurant in minimalist surroundings. wines. Noon-midnight. Cafe Ararat cafe with a designer interior, a mixed menu from a variety 11.00-23.00. 20 Denezhny Per., Armenian food inside the Ararat Park Hyatt. Mon-Fri noon- of cuisines and more moderate prices than are found on 8th floor Hotel Bega, 11 Begovaya Alley, 946-1733 241-3771 midnight, Sat-Sun 10.00-midnight. the second level. Besides higher prices, the second floor Begovaya, Dinamo Smolenskaya 4 Neglinnaya Ul., 783-1234 ext. 5028 also has a classical 19th-century dining room interior Bleachers Okhotny Ryad and a fine-dining menu with a mix of French, Italian and Cipollino Moscow’s newest Sports Bar offers a range of Burgers, Piz- Mediterranean dishes. The third floor offers a summer Coffee and cream-colored stylish Italian eatery a stone's China Club zas, South American hot dogs, English favourites including patio. Noon-midnight. throw from Christ the Savior Cathedral. Three halls with French-Asian fusion cuisine in an elegant interior. bangers and mash, Shepherd’s Pie initiated by General 8/1 Malaya Bronnaya Ul., 736-9131/32 numerous divans make for cozy dining in this upmarket Noon-midnight. 21 Ul. Krasina, 232-2778 Manager Martin Bainbridge. Features Happy Hour 6-9 every Pushkinskaya restaurant. Noon-6.00. Mayakovskaya night, Ladies Night with free Redd’s Thursdays 7-10 and 7 Soimonovsky Proyezd, Building 1, 291-6576 Amfiteatro Monday Countdown. International sport coverage from Da Cicco Kropotkinskaya French, Italian, and Mediterranean food with a few around trhe world and sports betting on premises from Stan Family-oriented Italian dining. Good wine list. Georgian dishes. Live music. Noon-last guest. James. Discotheque from 20.00, 24 hours. CafE Roset 11.00-midnight. 13/12 Profsoyuznaya Ul., 125-1196 7 Marksistskaya Ul., 911-0523 1, Volgogradsky Prospekt (side of Jackpot). 676-3972 Along with an excellent kitchen, Cafe Roset offers a spectac- Profsoyuznaya Taganskaya Proletarskaya ular wine on its list, the Australian, Clarendon Hills Syrah. Dorian Gray 9.00-midnight. American Bar&Grill Bocconcino Sophisticated, traditional Italian cuisine. 29, Kutusovsky Prospect, Hamburgers, steaks, bacon & eggs breakfast and more. Modest, yet elegantly designed Italian restaurant that Great Kremlin view. Noon-1.00. 249-9040 Children’s room on weekends. 24 hours. prides itself on its pizzas and probably offers the thinnest 6/1 Kadyshevskaya Nab., 238-6401 Kutuzovskaya 2/1 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ul., 250-9525 crusts in town. The pizzas are good value, but the bill Polyanka Mayakovskaya can add up if you start ordering other dishes or wine. Caffe Fresco Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie 59 Ul. Zemlyanoi Val, 912-3621/15 Noon-midnight. Relaxed but elegant atmosphere. Homemade pastas, pizza, Eclectic menu in a casual atmosphere. Trendy, young crowd. Taganskaya 7 Strasnoi Bulvar, 299-7359 and grilled seafood by an Italian chef. Noon-last guest. 24 hours. 14 Kirovogradskaya Ul., (inside Global City Trade Centre), Pushkinskaya 8, 1st Frunzenskaya Ul., 242-0562 24 Ul. Bolshaya Lubyanka, 923-0848 956-4843 Park Kultury Cafe des Artistes Lubyanka Yuzhnaya Elegant French eatery and exhibition hall in one. 11.00-1.00. Carre Blanc Dim Sum Angelico’s 5/6 Kamergersky Per., 692-4042 Tres chic. Award-winning wine list. Over 40 Chinese dishes prepared by Shanghainese chefs. Italian food with pan-European flair. Homemade pastas and Tverskaya Beer on tap. Noon-last guest. seafood. Noon-midnight. 12.00-midnight. 19/2 Seleznyovskaya Ul., CafE Pushkin 3 Smolenskaya Ploschad, 6 Bolshoy Karetny Per., 299-3696 258-4403 A Moscow classic serving upmarket Russian cuisine in lavish, 937-8425 Tsvetnoi Bulvar (orders from $200) Novoslobodskaya 19th century surroundings. The is a bustling ground-floor Smolenskaya Antonio dining hall and a more sophisticated (and pricier) experi- City Grill Doug’s Steakhouse Stylishly modern yet warm restaurant. Wide selection of ence complete with classical quartet, on the upper levels. Contemporary European cuisine, state-of-the-art interior. Moscow’s best steakhouse. Noon-midnight. French and Italian wines. Live music. Reservation essential. 24 hours. Noon-2.00. 30 Tsvetnoy Bulvar, 694-0145 2a Ul. 1905 Goda, 255-1125 Tverskoy Bulvar, 26a, 699-5590 2/30 Sad.-Triumphalnaya Ul., 299-0953 Tsvetnoy Bulvar Ulitsa 1905 Goda Pushlinskaya Mayakovskaya – over $100

– Wi-Fi

– Delivery •

– $50-100 •

advertising – Kids menu •

– $30-50 •

– $15-30 •

– Reservations recommended • – to $15 •

– Business lunch •

advertising – English-language menu •

Cost of dinner for one without drinks •

06 2007 45 WINE & DINE

Dolf Grand Cru Karetny dvor Lubyansky Modern European cuisine in a contemporary, elegant set- Molecular gastronomy finally makes its way to Moscow. At Azerbaijani. Sample a range of starters like marinated Housed in the same building as the FSB's premises by ting. Purchasable artwork on the walls. 11.00-1.00. Grand Cru, they’ve frozen and zapped the base ingredients chicken and stuffed peppers before moving on to a generous Lubanskaya Ploshchad. The two-level restaurant among its 3/2 1st Smolensky Per., 241-6217 of food for a scientifically intriguing eating experienced. hank of shashlyk. 24 hours. numerous designer features has five projection screens, a Smolenskaya In this small, non-smoking wine-bar you can try appetizer 52 Povarskaya Ul., 291-6376 DJ and VJ booth and a soundproofed area suitable for either with consistency from foam to jelly, which slip down Arbatskaya karaoke or private business meetings. The menu offers Fauchon without much need to chew, rather like astronaut fodder. a mixture of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean with some Acclaimed French gourmet delicatessen, wine department Khato Noon-midnight. Russian offerings. 24 hours. and more. 10.00-23.00. Modern Japanese restaurant with diverse Japanese menu. 22 Mal. Bronnaya Ul., 650-0118 7 Malaya Lubyanka, 621-1378 7, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ul., 978-8083/74 (boutique/res- 11.00-midnight. Tverskaya Lubyanka taurant) 19 B. Nikitskaya Ul., Bldg. 1, Mayakovskaya Guillys restaurant 290-2254 Lyustra Steak&seafood in a historic mansion. Multinational culinary Arbatskaya European, Middle Eastern and fusion cuisine in elegant 19th File hits, extensive wine list. century palace. Noon-last guest. Decorated with seaside motifs, the name means fillet and Keks Mon-Sun noon-midnight. 11/1 Vorotnikovy Per., 299-5852/3378 this small one-room restaurant does, as you would expect, Gallery restaurant with a 1970s European feel. 6 Stoleshnikov Per., Mayakovskaya serve fish fillets among other seafood dishes. 11.00-23.00. 11.00-last guest. 629-2050, 933-5521 4/3 Strasnoi Bulvar, Building 3, 209-2844 11 Ul. Timura Frunze, 249-6362 L’ Etranger Tverskaya, Teatral'naya Pushkinskaya Park Kultury Intimate French-style fusion with friendly atmosphere. Hard Rock Cafe 12.00-midnight. Galereya Kitaisky Kvartal Casual favorites – burgers, BBQ, cheesecake – amidst rock 13, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ul., 250-9648 Popular with high-end crowd. Menu includes sushi, Authentic Uigur cusine from the Xinjian Province of China. music memorabilia. Mayakovskaya European favorites and more. 24 hours. 24 hours. 24 hours. 27 Ul. Petrovka, 937-4544 Outdoor Garden at the Propekt Mira location Loft 44 Ul. Arbat, Chekhovskaya Prospekt Mira 12/1, European with French emphasis. Great view of Moscow from 205-8335 207-6252 the open-air balcony. 9.00-midnight. Genatsvale Arbatskaya, Smolenskaya Sukharevskaya 25 Nikolskaya, 933-7713/14 Classic Georgian cuisine with terrific Georgian wine. Live ICHIBAN BOSHI Lubyanka (for special view) music from 19.00. Noon-midnight. Knyaz Bagration A good quality Japanese food with modernize presentation 12/1 Ul. Ostozhenka, 202-0445 Georgian cuisine in authentic 19th century atmosphere, Mario in cool ambience, at affordable price. Kropotkinskaya (Fri, Sat) as well as wines and ingredients brought from Georgia. Delightful elegance and style flavoured with best quality 11.00-midnight. Noon-midnight. Italian dishes. Godunov 22 Krasnaya Presnya Ul., 255-0909 58 Ul. Pluschikha, Bldg. 1, 933-7171 17 Ul. Klimashkina, 253-6505 Russian cousin in this restaurant have been adapted to be Krasnopresnenskaya Park Kultury Ulitsa 1905 Goda more tourist-friendly. Try the almond vodka or medovuha ICHIBAN BOSHI (honey mead). La Hacienda Monplasir A good quality Japanese food with modernize presentation Noon-midnight. Authentic Mexican Cuisine under direction of Moeses French cuisine in a lavish 19th-century in cool ambience, at affordable price. 5/1 Teatralnaya ploshchad’, 298-5609 Castro. Noon-midnight. Russian dining hall. 11.00-last guest. 11.00-midnihgt. Teatralnaya 13 Komsomolskiy Prospekt, 246-5726 2 Ul. Schipok, 737-0494 105-1 Vernadskogo Prosp., Park Kulturi Belorusskaya Goodman Steak House 433-9151 Huge steaks, plus generous side dishes and classic American Yugo-Zapadnaya La Grotta Maison Cafe desserts, Noon-midnight. Modern Italian cuisine in a light, spacious interior. Home-style French cooking in pleasant environment. Kambala 23 Tverskaya Ul., 937-5679 Noon-midnight. Noon-midnight. Seafood restaurant where you mix and match your seafood Tverskaya 27/4 Bolshaya Bronnaya Ul., 200-3057 12 Savvinskaya Embankment., Bldg. 8, 246-3240 from a bed of ice with your vegetables from wicker baskets Tverskaya Smolenskaya Gorozhanin and have them prepared to your liking. Democratic cafe in the center of Moscow. Dishes from cities Seating is in little dinghy-like booths named after Georgian Louisiana Steak House Night Flight of the world. The freshest desserts prepared by us. towns. A variety of steaks and grill fish. European food served as European favorites by Swedish chef: foie gras, elk carpaccio, 8.00-midnight Noon-midnight. well. 20% off week days 12.00-16.00. pineapple sorbet. 18.00-5.00. Milyutinsky Pereulok 13/1/22, Bldg. 4, 739-0109 11 Novy Arbat, Bldg. 2, 291-4909 11.00-last guest. 30 Pyatnitskaya Ul., Bldg. 4, 951-4244 17 Tverskaya Ul., 229-4165 Lubyanka, Chistiye Prudy Arbatskaya Novokuznetskaya Tverskaya – over $100

– Wi-Fi

– Delivery •

– $50-100 •

– Kids menu •

– $30-50 •

advertising – $15-30 •

– Reservations recommended • – to $15 •

– Business lunch •

– English-language menu •

Cost of dinner for one without drinks •

46 06 2007 WINE & DINE

Olhof Sindbad T.G.I. Friday’s Vesna German beer garden on Pushkin Square. Pleasant atmo- Delightfully fresh food. Which includes a veal stew that American favorites in a cozy wood-paneled setting. Chic modern interior with an Italian-Japanese menu. sphere. Noon-last guest. never fails. The place is small and reservations are not Noon-midnight. Noon-midnight. 5 Bolshoy Putinkovsky Per., 299-2228 taken. Noon-midnight. 18/2 Tverskaya Ul., 200-3921/2497 19/1 Ul. Novy Arbat, 783-6996 Tverskaya 14 Nikitsky Bulvar, 291-7115 Pushkinskaya Arbatskaya Tverskaya 1/2 Leninsky Prospekt., 238-3200 Ocean Dream Villa Rosa Oktyabrskaya A seafood restaurant with a twist. Run by Indian Starlite Diner Fancy Italian restaurant housed in a 19th century mansion. 33 Ul. Zemlyanoi Val, in Atrium mall, 970-1187 restaurateurs, this eatery offers a change from the swathe American ‘50s-style diner, extensive menu with great Features rose-colored interior design, high-back arm chairs Kurskaya of Mediterranean seafood restaurants that have opened breakfasts, nachos and milkshakes. and finished of with chandeliers. Be prepared to spend a lot 14 Ul. Novy Arbat, Bldg. 1, 291-1318 around town by offering seafood served in an Indian and Expat hangout. 24 hours. 16 Ul. B. Sadovaya, 290-9638 of money. Noon-midnight. Arbatskaya Portuguese fashion. 11.00-last guest Mayakovskaya 52 Pyatnitskaya Ul., 951-4080 23 Ul. Garibaldi, 779-4211 26 Nikoloyamskaya Ul., 502-9906 9a Ul. Korovy Val, 959-8919 Dobryninskaya Noviye Cheryomushki. Marksistskaya Oktyabrskaya 3 Ul. Novoslobodskaya, Yapona Mama Poison Shokolad 780-7922 Japanese food in modern, steely surroundings. Upmarket international menu and an extensive cocktail Pan-European menu plus a selection of Japanese dishes. Novoslobodskaya Sun-Thurs noon-last guest, Fri-Sat noon-5.00 list in stylish surroundings. Popular with hip young crowd. Cozy decor and live music. 24 hours. 11 Tsvetnoi Bulvar, Bldg. 3, 921-6098 Versiya 1.0 Noon-6.00. 5 Strastnoi Bulvar, 787-8866 Tsvetnoi Bulvar (Fri, Sat, Sun) Super modern cafe/club/restaurant with a virtual-reality 13 Ul. Myasnitskaya, Bldg. 3, 923-0492 Tverskaya theme. The menu consists of dishes of modern European 4 Angels Cafe Chistiye Prudy, Lubyanka Sapporo cuisine while the cocktail list is extensive. The establish- Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese Polo Club Modern Japanese restaurant with an extensive sushi and ment's main drawing card however, is its virtual-reality Cozy cafe with gorgeous interior. New menu. International cuisine in stylish and modern surroundings. sashimi menu. Noon-23.00 room, where the walls and doors all become giant displays Sun-Thu 12.00-6.00. Menu includes prime beef steak and a good selection of 14 Prospekt Mira, 207-0198/8253 showing cosmic scenes, ocean panoramas and other such Fri-Sat 24 hours. seafood. Extensive wine list. 18.00-midnight. Prospekt Mira "realities". Noon-2.00, Fri. & Sat. noon-4.00. 5 Ul. Pokrovka, 364-3339 Marriot Royal Aurora Hotel, 11/12 Ul. Petrovka, 937-1024 3 Ul. Varvarka, 647-1303/04 Kitay-Gorod Seiji Pushkinskaya Ploshchad Revolyutsii Minimalist modern Japanese restaurant with an elegantly- 5 Rings Restaurant Prado Cafe crafted and unusual menu. Noon-last guest. Vogue Cafe Cuisine: European, Russian Predictable offering of European, Italian, Chinese and 5/2 Komsomolsky Prospekt, 246-7624 European food, top clientele. Classic European Restaurant with cozy atmosphere and Japanese food in plush surroundings. Noon-2.00. Park Kultury (6 options) Mon-Thu 8.30-1.00, Fri 8.30-2.00, elegant interior. Noon-last guest. 2 Slavyanskaya Ploschad, 784-6969 Sat noon-2.00, Sun noon-1.00. 27 Dolgorukovskaya, 250-2551 Settebello Kitai-Gorod 7/9 Ul. Kuznetsky Most, Novoslobodskaya Classic Italian menu with a Russian twist. Cozy coffee 923-1701 Paname lounge. Noon-last guest. 13 Sandwiches Bistro Kuznetsky most French-owned with traditional menu, relaxed atmosphere 3 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya Ul., 299-1656/ 3039 Cozy Italian eatery serving warm pressed gourmet 7 Stoleshnikov Per., 229-2412 Tsvetnoi Bulvar Vremya Yest sandwiches. Okhotny Ryad European food with German and Czech emphases. 10.00- 7.00. Syr Beer on tap. Noon-5.00. www.13sandwiches.ru Pasta della Mamma Charming Italian restaurant with a wine lounge on the 1/2 Lesnaya Ul., 21 Ul. Trubnaya, 106-4996 Many kinds of home-made pasta and pizza. second floor. Noon-last guest. 251-6873 Trubnaya. Noon-midnight. 16/2 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya Ul., 209-7770 Belorusskaya 12/9 Spiridonyevskiy Per., 730-5600 Tsvetnoi Bulvar 100% Cotton Pushkinskaya Vanil Modern European cuisine in a large dining hall topped by Sudar Fusion of French and Thai cuisine. Great view of the nearby a glass dome. Praga Russian cuisine. Authentic russian dishes. Recipes from cathedral. Noon-midnight. Noon-midnight. European, Russian, Japanese and Brazilian dishes in old cookbooks. 1/9 Ul. Ostozhenka, 202-3341 43 Lesnaya Ul., 506-0033/5533 luxurious setting. Ten different rooms and a nightclub. Noon - 4:00 p.m. - 25% discount. Kropotkinskaya Belorusskaya Noon-last guest. 19th. century mansion interior. 2/1 Ul. Arbat, 290-6171 Summer terrace "Abazhur". Arbatskaya Noon until the last guest leaves. 36A Kutuzovsky Prospekt Parisienne M.Park Pobedy or Kutuzovskaya Four Dining halls in a 19th century mansion, with traditional French cuisine. Vintage French and Italian wines. Live salon Suliko jazz on Fridays/Saturdays. 3 elegant dining rooms, 120 Georgian specialties. 13.00-last guest. Noon-midnight. 31 Leningradsy Prospect, 613-0784 42/2 Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka, Belorussaya, Dinamo 238-2888 Polyanka Riviere Upscale French food in a smart setting. Santorini – over $100 Noon-last guest. Greek food in a tavern setting. – Wi-Fi

4 Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya Ul., 243-0977 Noon-midnight. Kievskaya 15 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ul., 291-4588 Restavratsia Okhotny Ryad Modern European cuisine accompanied by more than 80

COMMUNITY POSTCARD from Belarus

Pret a Porter Food Shopping – Delivery • Most of us expats have heard of or even the world is pretty darn good down there. been to, the new Yevropeyskiy shopping Perhaps not as huge as the “big box” stores .ZTUJDBM,VQBMMF mall near Kievskaya train station. Until re- out at the mega malls, but suitable for my cently, most non-boutique Euro-style shop- pared down spring and summer diet fare. By Anne Coombes ping was only to be found on the edges of And then my friend gave me a tour of the Moscow. Not the greatest location for inner neighborhood food stores that were work- city folk who aspire to a certain upscale life- ing to keep the oligarch and his wife with varieties of whisky. 17.00-5.00. Tiflis style that doesn’t include a Lexus SUV with the Lexus SUV as loyal customers. a driver or even a friend with a Lada. Yes, As the summer solstice approaches, Be- benefit, this should be done naked – and you can catch the metro and then a shuttle My favorite was the newly expanded ver- larusians will have a twinkle in their eye and sweethearts can jump holding hands to bus to IKEA or Marktkauf and the adjacent sion of Azbuka Vkusa which took over the a spring in their step. Of course, we all look protect their love for one another. It’s said stores, but what do you do with all the store space from an Arbat Prestige. There forward to the warmer months; they’re a that, if sparks fly up, the couple will marry. packages getting off the metro on the trip you can get pomegranate seeds already time for stripping off our winter woollies, If the couple’s hands separate in the jump, home? And grocery shopping? For most of plucked out of the pomegranate and ready eating ice-cream and fresh strawberries they’ll split up. us in the “inner city” the corner produkty or to eat in a little plastic container. Or artfully and, naturally, pursuing love. To mark the To protect against all the mischievous kiosk does the trick between trips to rynoks cut and arranged fresh tropical fruit stacked rising of the sap and the return of the sun’s demons roaming the countryside, people or the Ramstore near the apartment. like little colorful jewels in their plastic con- warmth, Belarusians have been celebrating made sure that their horses and cattle were by Linda Lippner tainer. The next best thing to a store em- Kupalle for well over a thousand years. kept in the stables, with a bunch of nettles But while window shopping at the Yev- ployee standing next to you giving you the Originally a pagan celebration of fertil- hung over the door to ward them off. Burn- ropeyskiy Mall - since real shopping is not requisite clear plastic bags to slip your veg- ity, such is the magic of Kupalle night that ing coals were taken from the Kupalle fire a viable option for me there - I ran into a gies and fruits into, were bags pulled off trees are said to find their voices. They and brought into the home and women friend on her way to do her weekly grocery the usual roll, and artistically arranged in even lift up their roots and stretch out for wore their blouses embroidered with red 7 Leontyevsky Per., 290-5659 Georgian food in Tbilisi townhouse. Noon-midnight. shopping – at the mall! Grocery shopping a container ready for you to plop your pur- a walk. Once the sun has set, witches and plantain leaves (those growing at a cross- thread – since this colour (reminiscent of at the most elegant shopping venue in the chases into. While your driver or mate sits supernatural creatures supposedly creep roads were thought to have particularly fire) was thought to protect the wearer. city? Yes, indeed, my friend said. It’s down it out at the coffee or wine bar (well, maybe about the forests with ill intent. Anyone strong powers) and place them under their Water was also said to have amazing in the basement (how appropriate, since the not your driver at the wine bar), you can who is wise in the ways of Kupalle stays well pillows on this night – to ensure dreams of properties on Kupalle night, so, bathing Pret a Porter section that has just opened easily shop and spend several hundred dol- away. However, it is also a night of excite- their future spouses. To make extra sure, a in a river was a must. Illuminated by mys-

on the first level would not tolerate being lars among the tastefully arranged display ment, flirtation and ancient ritual. One of bowl of water could be put at the head of tic forces from midnight until dawn, water – $50-100 • adjacent to canned goods and the smoked cases. What a pleasure to buy my yogurt the most well-known of its legends is that the bed, with a makeshift bridge across it. was said to glow with supernatural pow- fish section of the Perekrestok store that or freshly caught fish, knowing that I might of the flowering fern - said to bloom with Husbands-to-be would appear in dreams, ers. Some Belarusian babushkas still swear has set up shop on the “ground level”). So, get out of the store with my credit card bal- a single glowing scarlet flower only on this crossing the bridge. by the magic power of a roll in the dew on after checking out the price on a skimpy lit- ance not seriously threatened. And I could night of the year. Anyone lucky enough to While the girls indulged in these whims, this date to keep them young at heart and tle cotton blouse (6,000 rubles), I followed feel good about my shopping habits; food find it gains understanding of the language the menfolk would find a site, preferably sprightly. her down to the grocery store. And what bought for my health and well-being, in- of plants and animals until the sun rises near water, to light a fire (symbolizing life Many practical jokes accompany this fes- a treat! The selection of foods from around stead of a 6,000 ruble summer blouse! once more. More enticingly, pointing the and purification). This was thought to en- tival. Even today it’s a perfect opportunity bloom towards the earth renders the soil courage crops to grow and any unwanted for highjinks. Young people staying with Tverskaya (Thu, Fri, Sat) 32 Ul. Ostozhenka, 290-2897/6139 invisible – enabling any buried treasure to items were thrown on the fire destroying their grandparents in the countryside like be discovered. However, the fern’s flowers all that was old and useless so that all that to indulge in the tradition of hiding things; are guarded by demons, so only those with was new could be embraced. At sunset, the stealing someone’s gate and concealing it a pure heart can succeed. girls would arrive singing and a cartwheel in the forest or tying up the front door so In earlier days, young girls began Ku- coated with flammable tar mounted on a that it can’t be opened are particular favor- is expanding palle by going to the banya in the morning high pole, would be burnt - symbolising ites. Needless to say, few courting couples - to purify themselves. They would then the Sun – as everyone danced in a symbolic need much encouragement for a solitary go into the meadows to collect corn flow- circle. The girls would throw their garlands walk in the woods with the pretense of And we have an opportunity for the right person to join the winning team ers, thought to have particular healing and over the fire: whichever young man caught looking for a magical blooming fern. protective powers at this time, and weave the flowers on the other side might become Despite centuries of Christian teach- We need an advertising manager to develop and lead a sales team, liaise with them into garlands for their hair. These gar- her sweetheart. Ritual food was also cooked ing, which strived to dispel the influence advertising agencies and sales houses and take Passport to new revenue lands could also be used for fortune-telling over the flames: fried eggs (recalling the of pagan festivals like Kupalle, the signifi- heights. by throwing them into a stream. If a garland sun and life), kulaha (a pudding made of cance of this special night continues to lin- rotated on the spot, its owner would re- wheat powder) and vareniki (dumplings ger. Eventually, the church was obliged to Based in Passport’s central Moscow offices, 10.00-19.00, Monday through Friday. main single for another year. If it sank, she’d stuffed with berries) were especially popu- adopt the date as St. John’s day to give it Successful applicants will be a native English speaker, with fluent command of Kropotkinskaya marry the following year. You could learn lar. Jumping over the fire was supposed to some semblance of propriety. Such is the written and spoken Russian, young dynamic self starter with a University degree the direction your husband would appear be a strong talisman. The flames were be- enduring popularity of this festival that it and ability to produce results under pressure. from by seeing where the garland hit the lieved so powerful that people would place remains close to the hearts of our modern Remuneration package will reflect what you can bring to the table. bank. Cunningly, any lad who was sweet the shirts of sick people nearby to dry and day Belarusians. Few would deny that they Work permit, visa support will be provided. on a particular girl could chase her flowers small children were brought close – to de- have, on occasion, indulged in searching downstream to ensure he’d be there as it ter any evil spirits who might be jealous of for the fern’s flower, jumped over a Ku- touched the edge. Young people still drive their youth. 21st century Belarusians still palle fire, tossed a garland downstream or Shafran CV’s to:[email protected] or call (495) 959 2875 out to the countryside to indulge in this flir- take a trip into the forest on this night, have tucked a plantain leaf under their pillow on tatious pastime. Ever keen to find out about a picnic and amuse each other by jump- this most auspicious of dates. their marriages, young girls would also pick ing over a camp fire. To ensure maximum

48 06 2007 06 2007 49 – Kids menu • Situated between Patriarch’s Pond and Tverskaya ulitsa. Tokyo SEAFOOD & GRILL 9.00-midnight. Creative setting with sophisticated Japanese food. 12 Spiridonevsky Pereulok, Bldg. 9, 737-9500 Noon-midnight. – $30-50 • Tverskaya 6 Ul.Varvarka (inside Rossiya Hotel), 298-5707/5374 RESTAURANT Kitai-Gorod Scandinavia Swedish-managed restaurant popular with expats. Cocktail Uley bar. Noon-last guest. 7 Maly Palashevsky Per., 937-5630 Fusion from a French chef whose credo is “Food is art”. • Extensive choice of fish and seafood, fresh oysters Tverskaya Sun-Wed noon-2.00, Thu-Sat 14.00-2.00. • Aquarium with lobsters and crab – $15-30 • 7 Ul. Gasheka, 797-4333 Shatush • Original desserts • Cozy atmosphere •Summer Terrace – Reservations recommended • Mayakovskaya Modern Chinese with European influences. Minimalist black • VIP “Captain’s cabin” • Reinvented menu wood interior. Tsimmis Noon-midnight. Cuisine is comprised of original, carefully-collected home – to $15 • 17 Gogolevsky Bulvar, 201-4071 recipes. Beautiful interiors. Kropotkinskaya Separate kosher area with its own kitchen and grill. – Business lunch • Noon-midnight. Kosher kitchen closed Sat. Seal of Quality! Shtolts 3 Novoslobodskaya Ul., Certified as 4-Stars by European cuisine in three differently-decorated rooms. 973-0873 Noon-last guest. European Economic Interests Grouping Novoslobodskaya 25-27 Savvinskaya Embankment, 246-0253 Smolenskaya Tunnel Soup Japanese-American food with a European twist. Menu OPEN from 11a.m. until midnight Cozy cafe with a reasonably priced pan-European menu. includes shashlik, chicken curry and vegetarian dishes. – English-language menu •

Wide beverage selection. 24 hours.

62 1st Brestskaya, Bldg. 3, 251-1383 7 Lubyansky Proezd, 937-4101 12 Novinsky Bulvar, Tel. 202-1312 Cost of dinner for one without drinks • Belorusskaya Kitai-Gorod

06 2007 47 COMMUNITY Prêt-à-Porter Food Shopping Most of us expats have heard of or even been world is pretty darn good down there. Perhaps to, the new Yevropeyskiy shopping mall near not as huge as the “big box” stores out at the mega Kievskaya train station. Until recently, most non- malls, but suitable for my pared down spring and boutique Euro-style shopping was only to be summer diet fare. And then my friend gave me a found on the edges of Moscow. Not the greatest tour of the neighborhood food stores that were location for inner city folk who aspire to a certain working to keep the oligarch and his wife with the upscale lifestyle that doesn’t include a Lexus SUV Lexus SUV as loyal customers. with a driver or even a friend with a Lada. Yes, you My favorite was the newly expanded ver- can catch the metro and then a shuttle bus to IKEA sion of Azbuka Vkusa which took over the store or Marktkauf and the adjacent stores, but what do space from an Arbat Prestige. There you can get you do with all the packages getting off the metro pomegranate seeds already plucked out of the on the trip home? And grocery shopping? For pomegranate and ready to eat in a little plas- most of us in the “inner city” the corner produkty tic container. Or artfully cut and arranged fresh or kiosk does the trick between trips to rynoks or tropical fruit stacked like little colorful jewels in the Ramstore near the apartment. their plastic container. The next best thing to a But while window shopping at the Yevropeys- store employee standing beside you giving you kiy Mall - since real shopping is not a viable op- the requisite clear plastic bags to slip your veggies by Linda Lippner tion for me there - I ran into a friend on her way and fruits into, were bags pulled off the usual roll, to do her weekly grocery shopping – at the mall! and artistically arranged in a container ready for Grocery shopping at the most elegant shopping you to plop your purchases into. While your driver venue in the city? Yes, indeed, my friend said. It’s or mate sits it out at the coffee or wine bar (well, down in the basement. How appropriate, since maybe not your driver at the wine bar), you can the Prêt-à-Porter section that has just opened on easily shop and spend several hundred dollars the first level would not tolerate being adjacent among the tastefully arranged display cases. What to canned goods and the smoked fish section of a pleasure to buy my yogurt or freshly caught fish, the Perekrestok store that has set up shop on the knowing that I might get out of the store with my “ground level”. So, after checking out the price on credit card balance not seriously threatened. And a skimpy little cotton blouse (6,000 rubles), I fol- I could feel good about my shopping habits; food lowed her down to the grocery store. And what bought for my health and well-being, instead of a a treat! The selection of foods from around the 6,000 ruble summer blouse! advertising

48 06 2007 POSTCARD from Belarus Mystical Kupalle

By Anne Coombes

lands could also be used for fortune-telling benefit, this should be done naked – and by throwing them into a stream. If a garland sweethearts can jump holding hands to rotated on the spot, its owner would re- protect their love for one another. It’s said main single for another year. If it sank, she’d that, if sparks fly up, the couple will marry. marry the following year. You could learn If the couple’s hands separate in the jump, the direction your husband would appear they’ll split up. from by seeing where the garland hit the To protect against all the mischievous bank. Cunningly, any lad who was sweet demons roaming the countryside, people on a particular girl could chase her flowers made sure that their horses and cattle were downstream to ensure he’d be there as it kept in the stables, with a bunch of nettles touched the edge. Young people still drive hung over the door to ward the off. Burn- out to the countryside to indulge in this flir- ing coals were taken from the Kupalle fire tatious pastime. Ever keen to find out about and brought into the home. Women wore their marriages, young girls would also pick their blouses embroidered with red thread As the summer solstice approaches, Belaru- plantain leaves (those growing at a cross- – since this colour (reminiscent of fire) was sians will have a twinkle in their eye and a roads were thought to have particularly thought to protect the wearer. spring in their step. Of course, we all look strong powers) and place them under their Water was also said to have amazing forward to the warmer months; they’re a pillows on this night – to ensure dreams of properties on Kupalle night, so, bathing time for stripping off our winter woollies, their future spouses. To make extra sure, a in a river was a must. Illuminated by mys- eating ice-cream and fresh strawberries bowl of water could be put at the head of tic forces from midnight until dawn, water and, naturally, pursuing love. To mark the the bed, with a makeshift bridge across it. was said to glow with supernatural pow- rising of the sap and the return of the sun’s Husbands-to-be would appear in dreams, ers. Some Belarusian babushkas still swear warmth, Belarusians have been celebrating crossing the bridge. by the magic power of a roll in the dew on Kupalle for well over a thousand years. While the girls indulged in these whims, this date to keep them young at heart, and Originally a pagan celebration of fertil- the menfolk would find a site, preferably sprightly in body. ity, such is the magic of Kupalle night that near water, to light a fire (symbolizing life Many practical jokes accompany this fes- trees are said to find their voices. They and purification). This was thought to en- tival. Even today it’s a perfect opportunity even lift up their roots and stretch out for courage crops to grow and any unwanted for high-jinks. Young people staying with a walk. Once the sun has set, witches and items were thrown on the fire destroying their grandparents in the countryside like supernatural creatures supposedly creep all that was old and useless so that all that to indulge in the tradition of hiding things. about the forests with ill intent. Anyone was new could be embraced. At sunset, the Stealing someone’s gate and concealing it who is wise in the ways of Kupalle stays well girls would arrive singing, and a cartwheel in the forest or tying up the front door so away. However, it is also a night of excite- coated with flammable tar mounted on a that it can’t be opened are particular favor- ment, flirtation and ancient ritual. One of high pole would be burnt - representing ites. Needless to say, few courting couples the most well-known of its legends is that the Sun – as everyone danced in a symbolic need much encouragement for a solitary of the flowering fern: it is - said to bloom circle. The girls would throw their garlands walk in the woods with the pretense of with a single glowing scarlet flower only on over the fire: whichever young man caught looking for a magical blooming fern. this night of the year. Anyone lucky enough the flowers on the other side might become Despite centuries of Christian teach- to find it gains understanding of the lan- her sweetheart. Ritual food was also cooked ing, which strived to dispel the influence guage of plants and animals until the sun over the flames: fried eggs (recalling the of pagan festivals like Kupalle, the signifi- rises once more. More enticingly, pointing sun and life), kulaha (a pudding made of cance of this special night continues to lin- the bloom towards the earth renders the wheat powder) and vareniki (dumplings ger. Eventually, the church was obliged to soil invisible – enabling any buried treasure stuffed with berries) were especially popu- adopt the date as St. John’s day to give it to be discovered. However, the fern’s flow- lar. Jumping over the fire was supposed to some semblance of propriety. Such is the ers are guarded by demons, so only those be a strong talisman. The flames were be- enduring popularity of this festival that it with a pure heart can succeed. lieved so powerful that people would place remains close to the hearts of our modern In earlier days, young girls began Ku- the shirts of sick people nearby to dry and day Belarusians. Few would deny that they palle by going to the banya in the morning small children were brought close – to de- have, on occasion, indulged in searching - to purify themselves. They would then ter any evil spirits who might be jealous of for the fern’s flower, jumped over a Ku- go into the meadows to collect cornflow- their youth. 21st century Belarusians still palle fire, tossed a garland downstream or ers, thought to have particular healing and take a trip into the forest on this night, have tucked a plantain leaf under their pillow on protective powers at this time, and weave a picnic and amuse each other by jump- this most auspicious of dates. them into garlands for their hair. These gar- ing over a camp fire. To ensure maximum

06 2007 49 COMMUNITY

Dangers of Moscow

by Fred Flintstone

“The single most dangerous thing you can parking and the dangers of speeding down is now red, I look left, then right, then left do in Russia is to get into a car.” This is my the road. However, there was the incident again and start to cross, but keep looking standard response to people back home last year when workers constructing a bill- both ways all the way across the road.” who ask me if it isn’t dangerous to live in board foundation near Voikovskaya drove Even if you don’t cross a road you are at Moscow, what with all the crime and such. a pile right into the metro tunnel and into a risk - sometimes the drivers use the walk- I continue, “that is unless you are a coal passing train; stopping it like an entomolo- ways as passing lanes, and these days, miner. And, the next most dangerous is to gist with a bug pin. since the city has started towing, walkways be a pedestrian anywhere near a road or But eventually you must emerge from have become parking lots. You can also parking lot.” This is not BS. Just ask anyone the depths and become a pedestrian. Just expect drivers to head against the traffic or who has lived here for a while and taken a remember, no matter how incensed you go the wrong way down a one-way street. white knuckled taxi ride pretty much any- may get, as a pedestrian in an encounter Russian drivers also do not turn around to where in the city. And if you actually drive, with a car, you lose. Look both ways (sev- look back when they back up – they use the well…… eral times) before crossing the road, and mirrors which means they may not see you The fact is, except for the traffic acci- if possible use the podzemly perekhod in a blind spot. dents, Moscow is relatively safe from street (underground walkway). Forget the ze- When you step out and learn to flag a crime, certainly safer than many US cities, bras (white striped crossing zones) on the cab, typically a gypsy cab, you’ll sit in the and especially for foreigners, at least West- streets. Moscow drivers pay absolutely no place of honor in a Russian car; the front erners. As someone commented recently, attention to them and the GAI (traffic po- passenger seat. But this is also the most “Why would anyone rob a foreigner, when lice) don’t either. Walk to the nearest stop- dangerous, closest to the scene of a poten- there are so many rich Russians, and they light, and even if you have a green signal tial accident and just inches from the very carry cash, sometimes in huge quanti- look both ways. hard windshield. When you try to buckle ties.” There was a recent report of a purse It’s interesting to stand at an intersec- your seat belt - if it works, your driver is snatched from a woman in a Mercedes tion like the one near our house, which is likely to say, “It’s not necessary.” Not even – she lost over $100,000. a simple stop light on a four-lane road and thinking your concern might be safety, he is When you first arrive in Moscow, and are installed there primarily for the benefit of just telling you that the GAI no longer stop actually on your own, you’ll first learn the pedestrians. There are a fair number of drivers for driving without belts fastened. Metro, the Eighth Wonder of the World and drivers that ignore the light completely, If he thought your concern was safety, he still an incredible bargain, by any measure, and certainly the first five or ten seconds would be insulted, or in any case, if there’s at about 60 cents a ride. Even though you’ll of red does not mean you can safely cross an accident its just sudba, or fate. Ignore have to either learn Cyrillic characters to – for many drivers, yellow means speed up, him – buckle up if you can and pray if you read the signs or count stations, it’s still the and the first five seconds of red is a grace cannot. And if you learn no other Russian, fastest way around town on most business period. If you watch pedestrian body lan- learn to say ne speschitye (don’t rush) or po days. And you don’t have to worry about guage you will learn the rules; “Ok, the light medleniye (slow down).

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50 06 2007 DISTRIBUTION LIST restaurants & bars Night Flight Tiflis Simens LLC Australia and NZ Women's Group 011 No Name Ukraina Slovenia Baker Hughes Academy Noahs Ark Volga South Africa Aerostar Place Acapulco Nostalgie Watercolors South Korea Banque Societe Generale Vostok Accenti Old Tokyo Zavidovo Spain ВВС Adriatico Palazzo Ducale Zolotoye Kol'tso Stilas Business Solutions Calinka Stockmann Alpen Terrasse Paname Stiles & Riabokobylko Chadbourne & Parke American Bar&Grill Pancho Villa business centers Sweden Citi Bank Antonio Paper Moon American Center United Arab Emirates Crown Relocations Art Bazar Parisienne Business Center Degtyarny United Kingdom Daimler Chrysler Art Chaikhona Pinocchio Business Center Elite U.S. Embassy DHL Australian Open Pizza Maxima Business Center Mokhovaya Ericsson Corporation Muskat Planet Sushi Business Center Renaissance medical/ dental centers Ernst & Young Baan Thai Porto Maltese Business Center 33 Usacheva Str. Adventist Health Center of Mos. Ford Motor Company B. B. King Probca Daev Plaza American Clinic General Electric Co BeerHouse Public Ducat Place 2 American Dental Clinic General Motors CIS Benihana Pyramid 11 Gogolyevsky American Dental Center Goodyear Bezh Rendezvous Iris Business Centre American Medicical Center Halliburton International Big-Pig-Pub R&B cafe Japan House American-Russian Dental Сntr. Hinkson Christian Academy Bookafe Rosie O'Grady's Krylatsky Hills European Dental Center Honeywell Boulevard Santa Fe LG Electronics European Medical Center HP Coconuts Bar&Grill Scandinavia McDonald’s Building French Dental Clinic IBM East Europe Russia Maisoncafe Seiji Meyerkhold House German Dental Center International Womens Club Cafe Mokka Seven Seas Morskoi Dom International SOS Alarm Center Ital-Market Cantinetta Antinori Shafran Mosalarko Plaza International SOS Medical Clinic John Lang Lasalle Сarre Blanc Shanti Mosbusiness Center US Dental Care Little Angels Kindergarden Che Shamrok Moscow Business Center Mars LLC Churchill's Pub Silvers Irish Pub Mosenka 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 residential complexes Mega Simple Pleasures Moscow Turkish Women's Org. Cicco Pizza Novinsky Passage JO's Sports Bar Noble Gibbons Coconuts Olympic Plaza Park Place (office) Starlite Diner Nortel Networks Coffee Bean Parus Business Center Pokrovky Hills Sudar NB Gallery Colonna Petch & Abels Rosinka (Office) SV Nestle Correas' Publicis United Rosinka (Sportcenter) T. G .I. Friday's Penny Lane Realty da Milio Romanov Dvor business organizations Darbar Talk of Town Sadovaya Plaza Philips Russia American Chamber of Commerce Deli France Tesora Samsung Center Pony Express European Business Club Del Mare The Furniture Museum Schlumberger Procter & Gamble Russian Financial Club Delis Cafe The Place Sodeksho Raiffeizenbank Austria Russo-British Chamber of Donna Klara The Real McCoy Riverside Towers Renaissance Capital Commerce Dorian Gray Tofu Sodeksho Russian-American Christian Doug & Marty's Boarhouse Trattoria Macaroni Moscow-City University fitness centers Eat Cafe Tunnel Sokol 10 Russin & Vecchi El Inka Uley Intel Dr. Loder Pricewaterhousecoopers Esterhazy Uzbekistan Trehprudny Business Center Gold's Gym Shishkin Gallery Etazh Vanila SKY Usadba Centre Planeta Fitness Soviet Art Gallery Fame Cafe V.I.P.National Usadba Centre JTI Sport Line Club Stockmann Khimki Fat Mo Vesna Western Bridge Business Cntr. World Class Stockmann Teply Stan Fata Morgana Viva la Vita Radisson Slavyanskaya Sport Club Stockmann-Discount Felicita Vogue Cafe embassies The Baltimore Sun White Sun of the Desert airlines/travel companies The Concept Gallery Cafe Australia Yapona Mama The Expat Salon Gallery of Art Austria Air China Yellow Sea The Imperial Tailong Co. Gallery of Roses Belgium Air Baltic Zapravochnya TSM Limousine service Gandhara Brazil American Express Zebra Skver Unilever Gibo e Viso Canada Adria Airways Wimm-Bill-Dann Goodman Steak House China Andrew's Travel Wrigley's Moscow Gorki hotels Cyprus Aviatransagentstvo Guill's Alrosa Czech Rebublic Cathay Pacific Gulden Ararat Park Hyatt Denmark Czech Airlines Hard Rock Cafe Arbat Egypt Delta Airlines Hic Bibitur Art-Hotel Hippopotamus Baltchug Kempinski advertising Ichiban Boshi Globus Finland Egypt Air IL Patio East-West France Feras Irish Bar in Sheremetyevo Katerina Germany Finnair Italianets Marriott Grand Greece JAL Izola Marriot Aurora Hungary Quantas John Bull Pub Marriott Tverskaya Iceland SN Brussels Airlines Khajuraho Metropol Ireland Streamline Kivayaki Mezhdunarodnaya 2 Israel Swiss International Labardans Moskow Country Club Italy Le Club Maxima Hotels Japan others Leonardo National Kuwait Allied Pichfords London Pub Novotel 1, 2 Luxembourg Anglia Bookshop Los Bandidos Orlyonok Netherlands Anglo-American School Louisiana Steak House Proton New Zealand Aerobusinessservice Maestro de Oliva Redisson Slavyanskaya Norway Allen-Bradley Co. MAO Renaissance Peru Rockwell Automation Mario RusHotel Philippines American Bar Association Mekhana Bansko Savoy Poland American Institute of Business Mesto Vstrechi Sheraton Palace Portugal and Economics Moka-Loka Soyuz Saudi Arabia Apple Computer Molly Gwinn's Pub Sretenskaya Shell EP Services America Cinema My Place Swisshotel Krasnie Kholmy Singapore American Womens Org.

06 2007 51 out & about Muscovites and the English Toast St. George On Monday April 23rd the British Embassy and the British Business Club gave a reception to toast St. George, the patron saint of both England and Moscow. “St. George is very close to the English people doing business in Russia as he is also the patron saint of Moscow,” commented Don Scott O.B.E., President of the British Business Club. “We are glad to be able to celebrate this day.” In many countries and for many centuries, St. George has been a symbol of heroic deeds and actions. St. George’s emblem of a red cross on a white background was brought back from the crusades by Richard the Lion heart and was worn by the troops of the King. England adopted St. George as the patron saint in 1415 following the victory at the battle of Agincourt making April 23rd a national feast day. The evening’s activities were sponsored by Deloitte's IPO Services group "Don't Go to London without Deloitte,” along with Land Rover, Jaguar, Tetley, Pepsi, InBev and Russian Standard Bank. The event was attended by representatives of the leading Russian and international investment banks, law firms, consultancies. The most popular toasts were vodka-based cocktails served up by the Russian Standard Bank’s own vodka company. Costumed models pose for photographs Natalia Shuvalova Photos by Liza Azarova

Commercial Real Estate Moscow Awards 2007 Presented

On Thursday, April 19 in the Expocenter on Krasnaya Presnya, the country, as well as a cultural and historical area and simply a har- fourth annual Commercial Real Estate Moscow Awards ceremony monious city in which to live. announced the best commercial real estate projects. The event is The industry participated in another social activity. The real es- not new and already gained popularity and status in the industry. tate market leaders expressed their desire to sponsor the regional The total number of people present was more than 1000, among charity social fund “Children’s Hearts”. As a result of the fundrais- them owners, management partners and top managers from core ing among the companies present at the ceremony, the fund got a companies, representatives from the Moscow City government, considerable amount of money. Russian and foreign investors, as well as lawyers and consultants. The “Children’s Hearts” was represented by famous Russian sur- Each year the ceremony gets more of an international status. This geon Konstantin Shatalov, the chairman of its board of trustees. time the guests came from Sweden, Italy, France, Turkey, UAE, Ger- Anna Sokolova was a wonder of the evening. She is the living proof many, Great Britain and the U.S. of the benefits the fund brings. She has undergone three major The award nominations are various and increase each year (office heart operations, but despite this, she still shows outstanding real-estate, industrial real-estate, hotel real-estate). This year the abilities and results in sports. She already won bronze medal in Moscow City government decided to introduce an award to the Moscow Rhythmic Gymnastics Championships. The audience was company who developed the best social infrastructure facility in impressed and greeted Anna with lots of applause. 2006. They give it the name of “Best Socially Significant Facility”. The main intrigue was the nomination for Person of the Year. The This became the focus of many conversations and was touched committee decided that the person should be elected by the audi- upon in the opening speech given by Iosif Ordzhonikidze, deputy ence which meant that many had to evaluate the professionalism mayor in the Moscow City government for international and exter- of their own colleagues. Finally, Erkan Erkek from Capital Partners nal economic relations. Many agreed that only through combined got most of the votes and got his Commercial Real Estate award. efforts the authorities and business can transform the capital into a unique megalopolis capable of being the economic center of the Natalia Shuvalova

06 2007 53 out & about 40 years of Malaysian-Russian Relations hailed

Dato’ Mohamad Khalis and Dr. Alexander Panov during the Dato’ Khalis delivering his address. Mr. Oleg Kabanov, Deputy Director opening remarks Asia Department MFA in the background

Ambassador of Malaysia, H.E. Dato’ Mohamad Khalis, has called on Tourism is growing at 50% a year with 12,000 visitors from Russia both countries to ratchet their relationship up several gears on the enjoying Malaysian hospitality last year and increasing numbers occasion of the 40th anniversary of establishing diplomatic rela- of Malaysian students are studying medicine here. The number is tions between the Malaysia and the Russian Federation. During a predicted to double to 4,000 students by 2010. round table at the Russian Diplomatic Academy, Dato’ Khalis told Malaysia shares Russia’s view on multilateralism and multi-polarity, the Rector of the Academy, Dr. Alexander Panov, the Deputy Direc- the Middle East Peace process and the avoidance of force in resolv- tor of the MFA Department of ASEAN and Asian Pacific Regional Af- ing international conflicts. The ASEAN nation was instrumental in fairs, Oleg Kabanov and several ambassadors and diplomats that “it easing Russia’s acceptance as a full ASEAN Dialog Partner and in is high time both countries switch into high gear and forge ahead ensuring Russia’s membership as an observer of the Organisation in great strides and recognise as well as acknowledge the potential of Islamic Conference (OIC). both countries have to offer as equal partners. It is not a matter of Various participants made presentations at the round table and a if both sides are ready, but rather when and how we should move spirited discussion, moderated by Professor Panov followed. The on. Malaysia and Russia have to come up with bold and innovative discussions took stock of the current state of bilateral relations as ideas in realising a more dynamic partnership.” well as areas of possible enhanced cooperation. Dato’ Khalis said the first official visit by Prime Minister Dato’ Seri “We were extremely pleased by the outcome of the event,” com- Abdullah Ahmad Badawi this month (June) would be an opportu- mented an Embassy spokesperson. nity to “enhance and push relations to a higher level”. Several key “While it is common knowledge that bilaterally, official relations bilateral agreements are being finalized for signing during the visit between Malaysia and Russia are very good, the people-to-people including a Partial Visa Abolition Agreement. relations are also thriving. The event was attended by many Rus- During his presidency, Vladimir Putin has visited Malaysia three sians who have a close affiliation with Malaysia, of whom we were times, trade has increased to $1 bn a year, military co-operation not really aware before this. In fact, we are truly impressed that the has increased with Malaysia buying strategic assets from Russia last two Russian speakers delivered their presentations in excellent and the first Malaysian Cosmonaut is training at Star City. Malay,” he added.

John Bonar courtesyPhotos of Embassy of Malaysia

H.E. Mr. Phomvihane , Ambassador of Laos and Prof. Lyudmila Pakhomova, Mr. Zakarov Mr. Evgeny Bazhanov, Deputy Rector of the H.E. Mr. Janin Ambassador of Brunei greeting from the Russian and Mr. Azman Yusof, Diplomatic Academy, Dato’ Khalis and one Dato’ Khalis Malaysian Trade Commissioner of the participants of the Roundtable

06 2007 out & about Land Rover

Jaguar Land Rover Russia plans series of events for Land Rover owners

In late April at Maychikovo airstrip near Moscow, the Land Rov- er Company gave presentations to journalists showing the latest modified Range Rovers and Range Rover Sports models and the entirely new Freelander 2 model. The event included a test drive in the style of the Land Rover motto ‘Go Beyond’. All journalists were given a chance to try the cars in action; according to the rule of the event organized by the communication group “Ya Corporation” all participants were given route cards and over- came all the checks and felt the advantages of each model on their own. All invited journalist had a great opportunity to try Land Rov- ers in action and ‘Go Beyond’.

Annet Kulyagina Photos: Ruslan Sergeev

Canada & Russia Talk Natural Resources crease in average home prices last year: 80 and 95% respectively. The Toronto event was hosted at the Toronto/Montreal law firm McMillan Binch Mendelsohn LLP and co-sponsored by uranium concern Stans Energy Corporation. Both Ms Barbara Hendrickson and Jeffery Snow from McMillan Binch presented, while Daniel Klein from Hellevig, Klein & Usov gave an overview of natural resource trends in Russia. The Montreal breakfast seminar which followed shortly on the heels of the Toronto event was held at the Ministere du development economique du Quebec (MDEIE) office and other present- ers included Ron Denom, President, SNC-Lavalin International and Glenn Kelly, President, Rabaska Company among others. The seminars proved to be so popular that a follow up joint Hel- levig, Klein & Usov/Passport Magazine will be held in Moscow on 25 June (for venue information see HYPERLINK "http://www. cerbanet.org" www.cerbanet.org) on the day prior to the com- With the full support and backing of CERBA (Canadian Eurasian mencement of the 9th Moscow International Oil & Gas Exhibi- Business Association) Russian-based law firm Hellevig, Klein & tion (MIOOGE) and the 5th Russian Petroleum and Gas Congress, Usov, Passport Magazine and Russian recruitment company Avenir both to be held at Moscow’s Expo Center (starting 26 June). These in their promotion of Canadian/Russian business recently held a mega-exhibitions typically attract over 10,000 delegates and are two-series breakfast seminar in Montreal and Toronto to discuss a considered to be among the largest exhibition events in Russia in very hot topic between the geographically two largest countries the course of the year. In the MIOOGE event which takes place in in the world. If these countries have anything in common it is defi- the Expo Center, Cerba has rented 200 square meters to host vari- nitely natural resources. As both economies are booming in view ous Canadian companies active in the fossil fuels sector. of their association with these sectors of the economy it is not coin- If things go well in Moscow a follow-up event is planned for Cal- cidence that both Calgary and Moscow witnessed the strongest in- gary for early fall.

06 2007 55 out & about Royal Meridien National Hotel In March 2007, the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences honored Le Royal Meridien National Hotel with a Five Star Diamond Award. It is the 7th award in the National’s history. General Manager of the Na- tional hotel, Yuri Podkopaev, was also recognized as The Finest Hotelier Worldwide, becoming the first top Manager in Russia who received this Award. The decisions of the American Academy are based exclusively on whether the establishment demonstrates a commitment to excellence in luxury and service within its category and classification. This standard of dedication is what sets the American Academy’s internationally recognized Star Diamond Award apart from all others. Novotel Sheremetyevo 15th anniversary

This spring one of the most popular Moscow hotels, Novotel Sherem- etyevo, celebrated its 15th anniversary. Novotel today is one of the modern multifunctional complexes, the place for business meetings, a peaceful place to have rest and is especially convenient if you want to bring your regional sales force from across Russia to Mos- cow for a training conference or seminar. The hotel also has a secure floor for transiting passengers waiting for a connecting flight. The Novotel is proud of their development achieved over the 15 years. The main facade of the hotel was changed, the guest rooms were renovated and converted to high quality luxury standard, comfortable conference rooms were equipped with the last technology. The hotel is operated by the French group, ACCOR which is the main reason for celebrating events under the framework of Russia and France. The management of Novotel prepared a lot of surprises for their guests. They were met with the classical sounds played by the musicians of Moscow Conservatory. Alexey Kortnev opened the show with famous Russian artists, while the reception hall of was decorated with beautiful ice sculptures and flowers. Annet Kulyagina Photos courtesyPhotos of Novotel

06 2007 LAST WORD

Sergey Litau

President of Yoga Federation of Moscow talks to Annet Kulyagina

When and why did Yoga came into alize their creativity, become better and yourself. That makes Yoga so interesting your life? happier than they are now, and give the and appealing. Well, my first experience of Yoga was in chance to achieve new levels in life with 1997 when I came to Yakov Marshak train- the help of Yoga. Do you try to attract as many people as ing. It was not easy to understand what I possible? wanted from Yoga then, but now I know You mentioned charitable programs No, definitely no. What we do is we try to that I was predefined in my previous life for children, why do you do that? create all the conditions for a person that to start practicing. My answer will be honest. There is only comes to the federation to feel the free- one. We give the children who live near dom of Yoga, to teach them to feel and Why did you organize the Federation? our gyms the opportunity to come and listen to themselves. I would never do that alone; there were a take lessons for free, because we feel the lot of people in Moscow who felt it neces- responsibility and try to keep them from What exactly do you do for that? sary to do one important and big thing… the streets, drugs and criminals. I have For the moment we have three sports gyms, children and I hope I could make them where people can come all year round. And What is important for you personally happy and it doesn’t mean I will ever insist every summer we open two pavilions. They as the President of the association? on their practicing Yoga; I can give them are cozy and unusual. No one did that be- The target is simple and complicated the chance to choose. fore. They are ecologically clean and give at the same time. My personal part in it the feeling of being close to the Nature. We started when I felt that it was the time to But why do you think Yoga can give all plan to open two more gyms and partici- give all that I had to give and known. The that happiness and success? pate in Moscow Fitness and Sport Festival main task for the Federation is the popu- There is a difference in other kinds of in 2007. We have our own magazine called larization of Yoga, working up a group training and Yoga, sport and Yoga. Sport Yoga Life where we give series of exercises of good trainers and opening new prac- gives you discipline and strengthen your and pieces of advise to the beginners, write ticing and educational centers. We also body, makes you compete with other about the people who make their own con- try to organize charitable programs for people for a victory. Yoga is not a compe- tribution into developing our Federation. children. We want to help people to re- tition; it is the search into the depths of We invite everyone to participate. Photos courtesyPhotos of Sergey Litau

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